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Great video. I’m curious, if you had the intake polished while it was apart, would that further reduce the probability of carbon/soot build up? I watched a video of a Pajero owner, who installed a Pro 200 catch can after doing an intake clean, and after 40k kms were disappointed to see that while the catch can was catching the blow by oil, dry carbon had still accumulated in the intake.
Great video, mine has done 375, now won’t start, I’m not looking forward to the job but all the symptoms are pointing to it and lacks power. Here we go. Appreciate your video.
Thanks for the video. I'm part way through doing my 79 series ute. Can you tell me how you cleaned up the cylinder head ports please.? I'm worried about all of the carbon falling into the cylinders. Also, what is the solvent that you used? Thanks.
Nah I dont own the workshop. As for recommendations for doing the job make sure you set aside a day or so to get it done. The longest part of the job will be the cleaning. You could try getting a sonic cleaning bath some wire brushes etc. Along with some cleaners like degreaser,petrol and brake or carby cleaner. At the workshop we use a special solution that eats the carbon away fairly quickly then we do that cycle over and over until it’s clean. Depending on the manifold and how bad the carbon is depends how long it takes. The job itself isn’t to bad if you’re a bit mechanically minded, have a bit of patience and aren’t afraid to get a bit dirty. You’ll save yourself alot of money because alot of the job is just labour. Also i’d recommend getting a complete manifold gasket set from Toyota as i did. That way if any of the gaskets are damaged upon removal you don’t have to worry. Hope this helps.
Hi, thanks for the video. What did you use when mounting the intake back to the block. Any specific gasket sealer ? Is there any parts that you had to replace when mounting back other than the primer you mentioned?
Interesting you say "white smoke" - do you mean "black" smoke? White smoke would be coolant. My LC200 pre DPF puffs black smoke when revering up slightly inclined driveways, when coming to a stop from moving/driving and when under heavy load. Besides you saying white vs black, I seem to be having similar so wanted to confirm. (I also have a full Torqit x pipe exhaust, turbo back.
No my dude I definitely mean white smoke. Black smoke is normal mine now still puffs black smoke backing up a steep hill or giving it a bit. The white smoke indicates un burnt diesel which is normally the case when the intake gets clogged due to the lack of air in the combustion process and excess fuel because the ecu parameters get thrown out when the intake is clogged due to the maf sensor being before the intake manifold. Being the torqit system with the x pipe you will get those puffs of black smoke because the system is so free flowing. I’ve recently just put the muffler back in mine for longer trips and it still puffs black smoke under load up a hill and giving it a bit. But not as bad as the X pipe installed. Coolant can create some white yes it’s more of a bellowing white mist however and has a sweet smell to it a bit like the old days the the falcons with their head gaskets. In this case however it’s not the same smoke im talking about. If your cruiser is down on power and using a touch more fuel chances are the intake is clogging up. Also depends on the Km’s and if it does short trips or not. Plus if a catch can has been installed. Ive seen cruisers 50,000kms no catch can doing short trips. Clogged up worse than what mine was almost to the point it’s entirely closed off with soot. Hope this helps.
hi i just came across the video you seem to have a good knowledge of the v8 land cruiser engine i have recently purchased a 2013 vdj79 single cab and am about do a long trip my vehicle has 200,000 klms would you replace the starter before i leave
If you’re worried about it take a spare with you preferably a genuine one. It couldn’t do any harm. However i know plenty of 200’s and 79’s that have done well over 300,000kms and are still using the original starter motor. It’s pretty much like anything else electronic one day they could work the next day they won’t. One thing you should look at however especially if you’re going through mud etc. Is the alternator they’re prone to fail. Hope this helps.
If the top of the engine is not showing signs of corrosion or has lots of dried mud on it, I very much doubt your starter motor needs replacing. These starter motors are extremely robust if not subjected to a horrible working environment, e.g. ex-underground mine vehicle in highly corrosive conditions
I used a form of acidic wash essentially that is designed to break down and dissolve the carbon really potent stuff. However you can’t buy it from retail stores. That’s not to say there isn’t products like it in automotive stores. Another method that does work really good is parts washer fluid it think from memory it’s kerosene based you can purchase it from most Automotive stores. Carby cleaner works to you’ll need alot of it though. Same with petrol. Just make sure the manifold has no residue prior to re installation. Don’t use petrol down the head ports though. Even be careful with carby cleaner.
Hey mate, great vid. Also have the slight surging issue when coming to a stop at the lights on my 200. Was it the fuel filter assembly or the intake clean which fixed it you reckon?
Depending on how bad the carbon build up is it could be either. If you’re suspecting your filter assembly is sucking air then best to start with that. It’s the cheaper option of the two. In my case I suspect it was my filter primer pump sucking air that caused it because the carbon buildup wasnt extremely bad. Since doing both haven’t had the issue since.
@@DaSpedza Thanks for the info mate, ended up replacing the filter housing tonight. Will have to drive it around and let the ECU fuel trims adjust and see if it's fixed.
@@chickmagpunk Was the fuel filter replacement effective at fixing the surging issue for your engine? Is yours a 200 or a 70 Series? Does the surging issue go away with the airconditioner switched off?
I’ve got a big white cloud of smoke coming out every now and then when I stop at a stop light and when I’m idling.. it doesn’t happen all the time .. would happen ones a day .. fair amount of white smoke.. goes away when I start going please give me some insight you legend (after the engine is warmed up)
White smoke normally indicates unburnt diesel. The carboned up intake can cause it every now and then however so can injectors if the injectors are on there way out and over fueling you can have that problem. Another thing to check is your primer pump on top of your fuel filter. Especially if you’re getting a slight shudder at slower speed ie taking foot off of the brake at stop lights etc. Because they can tend to wear out and suck air past which can also cause white smoke if the diesel is aerated. And the final thing that has been known to cause white smoke 💨 is low compression in one or more cylinders. I hope this helps mate.
Is there a catch can fitted? If yes, is it full? White cloud of smoke is an indicator of unburnt engine oil, not diesel fuel. There may be an issue with a leaking turbo oil seal if you do not have a catch can installed.
@@tempestv8 I’ve got a provent And nah I empty it out frequently.. After a lot of research I’ve found out that it was the valve stem seals that needs replacement
@@DaSpedza I have diagnosed the injectors with the diagnose tool at the mechanic .. they are still good .. Looks like my valve stem seals are due .. oil going down to the combustion chamber .. happens when the car is hot.. and on idle ..
@@routeaustralia7000 I had a Land Rover petrol V8 which also leaked via the valve stems, and it really clagged up the exhaust catalytic converters, restricting the exhaust flow. This added back pressure would eventually lead to other issues, I'd expect.
It depends most Dpf cleaners i’ve dealt with you have to spray the product directly into the dpf. Which means removing the dpf in most cases. Most off the shelf intake clean products don’t work in fact they can cause more trouble than what they’re worth. By pushing chunks of carbon and soot into the cylinders forcing the engine to burn it. On top of that those products normally coat the intake surface with a wet film which just gives the soot more surface to stick to. And if you’re referring to when the car itself does a dpf burn that unfortunately wont help either. Because the car performs dpf burns in one of two ways. The first is they have a injector just before the dpf which injects fuel to help increase the heat within the dpf element therefore causing it to incinerate the soot inside. The second way they do it is they use the vehicles normal injectors to increase the fuel being injected into the cylinders which causes the un burnt fuel to therefore heat up the dpf element. Most manufacturers moved away from the latter way of doing it as it was causing engine damage. However neither of these help eliminate the soot already built up in the intake. Hope this helps.
@@DaSpedza I was actually thinking more along the lines of a fuel additive such as turbo cleaner/DPF cleaner that allegedly claim it reduces the temperature required to burn off carbon deposits, the excess liquid would go through the intake & start turning into fine ash then back through the engine - out through exhaust? I heard the 'direct spray' intake cleaner dislodges chunks but this method would be a different process as it would burn the carbon instead.
Unfortunately that wont work and the reason for that is the way crd are setup. They’re a direct injection so the injectors inject straight into the cylinder and not into the manifold or behind the valves. So fuel additives can be great for cleaning contaminated fuel algae,water etc which can possibly help reduce soot however ive never seen that much soot reduction from fuel additives. But as for cleaning manifolds they do little to nothing.
I’m here as I was looking around RUclips to find info on these engines. I don’t own one but I’m interested in buying one. I hear a lot about the engines being destroyed due to dusting, air filter problems. What can you tell me about this? Is there a thing to look for if buying a 200 or is there preventative measures that can be taken. I enjoyed this video. Tia
The 1VD is a really good engine as a general rule normally good for 500,000kms. Yes however dusting is a massive issue with them. To help solve the dusting issues you can do a few things one is use a genuine filter which has the thicker seal around it along with rubber or bearing grease around the seal on the clean side. However some people still report dust passing through the filter element itself. So to resolve this people either use a snorkel sock on their snorkle or run a Unifilter air filter which has the thicker seal and it a oiled foam filter to catch the dust. Or they decide to replace the entire airbox with a quality aftermarket one. Another place the dust gets in on them which no one ever talks about is down around the LH turbo. Toyota has done something on the quiet to fix this problem during servicing. If you’re looking at a 200 series take the time to throughly check the airbox and intake pipe for dust even if they’ve been cleaned it’s hard to remove the dust from the ribs in the intake piping. And try and get one that is from 2010 to current. The 2007-2009 models has problems with high oil consumption some of that was due to the vacuum pump and others were from fhe piston and rings. If you service and maintain them correctly they’ll keep going for many many years. With the occasional water pump needling to be replaced. Put good fuel in them and running a pre fuel filter and catch can will also go a long way to help keep the contamination out of the fuel pump and injectors and the catch can will help prevent this intake carbon issue. I look after a few of them some are new others have alot more km’s on them all are going strong. Hope this helps mate. The video linked is my video on the dusting. ruclips.net/video/h4XDMV3LUe4/видео.html
Hi Mate, I’m a diesel mechanic and have just pulled mine apart, done 375k and has twice the build up of yours, absolutely disgusting. Was your blowing black smoke and lacking power? Just don’t want to miss anything. Fluid coupling need replacing and starter motor turning slow with new batteries so both of those getting replaced. Any help is much appreciated. Neil
Mine was lacking power occasionally and had harsh idle when cold. Along with white smoke every now and then. If the starter motor seems slow. Would definitely replace it as you know it’s a decent job to get back in there and fix it. Also inspect all the cooling hoses and lines in the valley they can leak and sometimes corrode through. Hope this helps. Good luck with it mate 👍🏻
oil vapor from the pcv is a small part of the issue the biggest issue is egr if you don't do something about egr then it'll be groundhog day in anout 100,000+k's, pre catch can is just the straw that breaks the camels back, adding catch cans don't fix or stop the intake getting caked in crap....
What the fuel rails? Completely normal go through as many heat cycles as they do and your paint would fall off to. It’s only surface rust completely harmless.
You can remove the injectors to do a test however, Removing the glow plugs and screwing the tester in its place for each cylinder working your way through all 8 is better. However it’s best to take it to a shop and let them do it as you need to do a few more steps in order to do the test.
Can of egr clean, follow instructions, much less work. Do a remap on ecu and turn your egr valves off electronically at the same time. This will fix your carbon inlet manifold problem.
Thanks to the environmentalists. Question, do you disable EGR programmatically? BMW has a technology for cleaning the intake manifold with a walnut crumb.
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good video. I've got a 70 series with same engine. after seeing this I'm glad I installed a catch can when it was near new
Great video. I’m curious, if you had the intake polished while it was apart, would that further reduce the probability of carbon/soot build up? I watched a video of a Pajero owner, who installed a Pro 200 catch can after doing an intake clean, and after 40k kms were disappointed to see that while the catch can was catching the blow by oil, dry carbon had still accumulated in the intake.
Great video, mine has done 375, now won’t start, I’m not looking forward to the job but all the symptoms are pointing to it and lacks power.
Here we go.
Appreciate your video.
Thanks for the video. I'm part way through doing my 79 series ute. Can you tell me how you cleaned up the cylinder head ports please.? I'm worried about all of the carbon falling into the cylinders.
Also, what is the solvent that you used?
Thanks.
Also keen to know this!
You did a great job I would have changed the starter motor while I was so close to it
Do you have shop in Melbourne? I like to do mine. Any recommendations. Like your video. Very helpful.thanks
Nah I dont own the workshop.
As for recommendations for doing the job make sure you set aside a day or so to get it done. The longest part of the job will be the cleaning. You could try getting a sonic cleaning bath some wire brushes etc. Along with some cleaners like degreaser,petrol and brake or carby cleaner.
At the workshop we use a special solution that eats the carbon away fairly quickly then we do that cycle over and over until it’s clean. Depending on the manifold and how bad the carbon is depends how long it takes. The job itself isn’t to bad if you’re a bit mechanically minded, have a bit of patience and aren’t afraid to get a bit dirty. You’ll save yourself alot of money because alot of the job is just labour.
Also i’d recommend getting a complete manifold gasket set from Toyota as i did. That way if any of the gaskets are damaged upon removal you don’t have to worry. Hope this helps.
Hi, thanks for the video. What did you use when mounting the intake back to the block. Any specific gasket sealer ?
Is there any parts that you had to replace when mounting back other than the primer you mentioned?
Interesting you say "white smoke" - do you mean "black" smoke? White smoke would be coolant.
My LC200 pre DPF puffs black smoke when revering up slightly inclined driveways, when coming to a stop from moving/driving and when under heavy load. Besides you saying white vs black, I seem to be having similar so wanted to confirm. (I also have a full Torqit x pipe exhaust, turbo back.
No my dude I definitely mean white smoke. Black smoke is normal mine now still puffs black smoke backing up a steep hill or giving it a bit.
The white smoke indicates un burnt diesel which is normally the case when the intake gets clogged due to the lack of air in the combustion process and excess fuel because the ecu parameters get thrown out when the intake is clogged due to the maf sensor being before the intake manifold.
Being the torqit system with the x pipe you will get those puffs of black smoke because the system is so free flowing. I’ve recently just put the muffler back in mine for longer trips and it still puffs black smoke under load up a hill and giving it a bit. But not as bad as the X pipe installed.
Coolant can create some white yes it’s more of a bellowing white mist however and has a sweet smell to it a bit like the old days the the falcons with their head gaskets. In this case however it’s not the same smoke im talking about.
If your cruiser is down on power and using a touch more fuel chances are the intake is clogging up. Also depends on the Km’s and if it does short trips or not. Plus if a catch can has been installed.
Ive seen cruisers 50,000kms no catch can doing short trips. Clogged up worse than what mine was almost to the point it’s entirely closed off with soot. Hope this helps.
thanks for the info i live in nw tas its hard to find someone down here with good knowledge of lc v8
Excellent video mate. Thanks
hi i just came across the video you seem to have a good knowledge of the v8 land cruiser engine i have recently purchased a 2013 vdj79 single cab and am about do a long trip my vehicle has 200,000 klms would you replace the starter before i leave
If you’re worried about it take a spare with you preferably a genuine one. It couldn’t do any harm. However i know plenty of 200’s and 79’s that have done well over 300,000kms and are still using the original starter motor. It’s pretty much like anything else electronic one day they could work the next day they won’t.
One thing you should look at however especially if you’re going through mud etc. Is the alternator they’re prone to fail. Hope this helps.
If the top of the engine is not showing signs of corrosion or has lots of dried mud on it, I very much doubt your starter motor needs replacing. These starter motors are extremely robust if not subjected to a horrible working environment, e.g. ex-underground mine vehicle in highly corrosive conditions
Gday mate , great clean job , besides elbow grease what did you use to get your parts so clean ? Cheers 🍻
I used a form of acidic wash essentially that is designed to break down and dissolve the carbon really potent stuff. However you can’t buy it from retail stores. That’s not to say there isn’t products like it in automotive stores.
Another method that does work really good is parts washer fluid it think from memory it’s kerosene based you can purchase it from most Automotive stores. Carby cleaner works to you’ll need alot of it though. Same with petrol. Just make sure the manifold has no residue prior to re installation. Don’t use petrol down the head ports though. Even be careful with carby cleaner.
Hey mate, great vid. Also have the slight surging issue when coming to a stop at the lights on my 200. Was it the fuel filter assembly or the intake clean which fixed it you reckon?
Depending on how bad the carbon build up is it could be either. If you’re suspecting your filter assembly is sucking air then best to start with that. It’s the cheaper option of the two. In my case I suspect it was my filter primer pump sucking air that caused it because the carbon buildup wasnt extremely bad. Since doing both haven’t had the issue since.
@@DaSpedza Thanks for the info mate, ended up replacing the filter housing tonight. Will have to drive it around and let the ECU fuel trims adjust and see if it's fixed.
@@chickmagpunk Was the fuel filter replacement effective at fixing the surging issue for your engine? Is yours a 200 or a 70 Series? Does the surging issue go away with the airconditioner switched off?
I’ve got a big white cloud of smoke coming out every now and then when I stop at a stop light and when I’m idling.. it doesn’t happen all the time .. would happen ones a day .. fair amount of white smoke.. goes away when I start going
please give me some insight you legend
(after the engine is warmed up)
White smoke normally indicates unburnt diesel. The carboned up intake can cause it every now and then however so can injectors if the injectors are on there way out and over fueling you can have that problem.
Another thing to check is your primer pump on top of your fuel filter. Especially if you’re getting a slight shudder at slower speed ie taking foot off of the brake at stop lights etc.
Because they can tend to wear out and suck air past which can also cause white smoke if the diesel is aerated.
And the final thing that has been known to cause white smoke 💨 is low compression in one or more cylinders. I hope this helps mate.
Is there a catch can fitted? If yes, is it full? White cloud of smoke is an indicator of unburnt engine oil, not diesel fuel. There may be an issue with a leaking turbo oil seal if you do not have a catch can installed.
@@tempestv8 I’ve got a provent
And nah I empty it out frequently..
After a lot of research I’ve found out that it was the valve stem seals that needs replacement
@@DaSpedza I have diagnosed the injectors with the diagnose tool at the mechanic .. they are still good ..
Looks like my valve stem seals are due .. oil going down to the combustion chamber .. happens when the car is hot.. and on idle ..
@@routeaustralia7000 I had a Land Rover petrol V8 which also leaked via the valve stems, and it really clagged up the exhaust catalytic converters, restricting the exhaust flow. This added back pressure would eventually lead to other issues, I'd expect.
Just out of curiosity , DPF cleaner would help burn off the carbon in the intake?
It depends most Dpf cleaners i’ve dealt with you have to spray the product directly into the dpf. Which means removing the dpf in most cases. Most off the shelf intake clean products don’t work in fact they can cause more trouble than what they’re worth. By pushing chunks of carbon and soot into the cylinders forcing the engine to burn it. On top of that those products normally coat the intake surface with a wet film which just gives the soot more surface to stick to. And if you’re referring to when the car itself does a dpf burn that unfortunately wont help either. Because the car performs dpf burns in one of two ways. The first is they have a injector just before the dpf which injects fuel to help increase the heat within the dpf element therefore causing it to incinerate the soot inside. The second way they do it is they use the vehicles normal injectors to increase the fuel being injected into the cylinders which causes the un burnt fuel to therefore heat up the dpf element. Most manufacturers moved away from the latter way of doing it as it was causing engine damage. However neither of these help eliminate the soot already built up in the intake.
Hope this helps.
@@DaSpedza I was actually thinking more along the lines of a fuel additive such as turbo cleaner/DPF cleaner that allegedly claim it reduces the temperature required to burn off carbon deposits, the excess liquid would go through the intake & start turning into fine ash then back through the engine - out through exhaust? I heard the 'direct spray' intake cleaner dislodges chunks but this method would be a different process as it would burn the carbon instead.
Unfortunately that wont work and the reason for that is the way crd are setup. They’re a direct injection so the injectors inject straight into the cylinder and not into the manifold or behind the valves. So fuel additives can be great for cleaning contaminated fuel algae,water etc which can possibly help reduce soot however ive never seen that much soot reduction from fuel additives. But as for cleaning manifolds they do little to nothing.
I’m here as I was looking around RUclips to find info on these engines. I don’t own one but I’m interested in buying one. I hear a lot about the engines being destroyed due to dusting, air filter problems. What can you tell me about this? Is there a thing to look for if buying a 200 or is there preventative measures that can be taken. I enjoyed this video. Tia
The 1VD is a really good engine as a general rule normally good for 500,000kms.
Yes however dusting is a massive issue with them. To help solve the dusting issues you can do a few things one is use a genuine filter which has the thicker seal around it along with rubber or bearing grease around the seal on the clean side.
However some people still report dust passing through the filter element itself.
So to resolve this people either use a snorkel sock on their snorkle or run a Unifilter air filter which has the thicker seal and it a oiled foam filter to catch the dust. Or they decide to replace the entire airbox with a quality aftermarket one.
Another place the dust gets in on them which no one ever talks about is down around the LH turbo. Toyota has done something on the quiet to fix this problem during servicing.
If you’re looking at a 200 series take the time to throughly check the airbox and intake pipe for dust even if they’ve been cleaned it’s hard to remove the dust from the ribs in the intake piping. And try and get one that is from 2010 to current.
The 2007-2009 models has problems with high oil consumption some of that was due to the vacuum pump and others were from fhe piston and rings.
If you service and maintain them correctly they’ll keep going for many many years. With the occasional water pump needling to be replaced. Put good fuel in them and running a pre fuel filter and catch can will also go a long way to help keep the contamination out of the fuel pump and injectors and the catch can will help prevent this intake carbon issue. I look after a few of them some are new others have alot more km’s on them all are going strong. Hope this helps mate.
The video linked is my video on the dusting.
ruclips.net/video/h4XDMV3LUe4/видео.html
@@DaSpedza thanks very much. Much appreciated.
Hi Mate, I’m a diesel mechanic and have just pulled mine apart, done 375k and has twice the build up of yours, absolutely disgusting.
Was your blowing black smoke and lacking power?
Just don’t want to miss anything.
Fluid coupling need replacing and starter motor turning slow with new batteries so both of those getting replaced.
Any help is much appreciated.
Neil
Mine was lacking power occasionally and had harsh idle when cold. Along with white smoke every now and then.
If the starter motor seems slow. Would definitely replace it as you know it’s a decent job to get back in there and fix it.
Also inspect all the cooling hoses and lines in the valley they can leak and sometimes corrode through. Hope this helps. Good luck with it mate 👍🏻
Were is your work shop
oil vapor from the pcv is a small part of the issue the biggest issue is egr if you don't do something about egr then it'll be groundhog day in anout 100,000+k's, pre catch can is just the straw that breaks the camels back, adding catch cans don't fix or stop the intake getting caked in crap....
your car already fitted catch can, why still there are a lot carbon in intake manifold?
From before the catch can was fitted.
Why is that part rusted where fuel lines go in? Is that normal? Thanks.
What the fuel rails?
Completely normal go through as many heat cycles as they do and your paint would fall off to. It’s only surface rust completely harmless.
@@DaSpedza yes, thanks for that. 👍
how do you comp test these? do you need to remove injectors
You can remove the injectors to do a test however, Removing the glow plugs and screwing the tester in its place for each cylinder working your way through all 8 is better. However it’s best to take it to a shop and let them do it as you need to do a few more steps in order to do the test.
New gaskets used? Or sealer?
All new gaskets. Genuine Toyota.
Very very hard job
Can of egr clean, follow instructions, much less work. Do a remap on ecu and turn your egr valves off electronically at the same time. This will fix your carbon inlet manifold problem.
Thanks to the environmentalists. Question, do you disable EGR programmatically? BMW has a technology for cleaning the intake manifold with a walnut crumb.
Yea, it sucks doing the right thing for everyone hey.
Turn of the egr, problem solved
How to do that? Via ECU reprogramming?