The sacrificial strip of concrete is a smart idea. All the little tips from the pros who do it every day can really make all the difference. Looks good, great job!
Hiya, you mention many times that you send old concrete to be recycled after you have cleared obstacles that cause flooding etc. Could you do a video on concrete recycling please? I know there are RUclips videos on the subject but I like the way you explain things. I love watching your channel even if my friends think I’m weird 😂😂. Keep up the good work & channel Shawn. Russell (Nottingham, England).
Hey Russell. Most concrete recycling places have yards where they let you dump the concrete and then every so often they bring in the crusher and a huge excavator and grind it up. The place closest to me is currently charging to dump concrete because their pile is high. Once their pile gets smaller they will start letting us dump for cheap or free again. I have seen the crusher working once but didn't have my camera at the time.
The sacrificial strip between the new slab and the existing driveway is a good idea. The mark of an experienced concrete contractor. Initially, when viewing the pouring process, I was thinking that you should be making joints or grooves in the slab but later in the finished product I see that grooves have been added. Some other viewers commented about the absence of mesh reinforcement, which you have replied to. Nonetheless, I would have placed minimal rebars for good measure because it wouldn't have added too much to the overall cost. Or perhaps I would offer it as an option to the customer. Anyway, good job. You're not too far in reaching 20k subs.
I've asked the concrete guy about rebar and he says no one uses it here so its not worth it. I don't think I've seen rebar in any tear-out but he does see it once in a while. I keep saying I'm going to do a 20k sub special video, so I need to get to it!
Major improvement....great job by all......I thought for a minute they were leaving that patio stone in place. I'm thinking why would the customer want to leave that.....then you guys start tearing it out....lol
Great job Gate City!!! I knew what you were going to do as soon as I saw you standing by the extra dirt. Harley rakes are awesome. Keep up the good work and videos Sean.
Thank you Ed! I'd like to get more finish grading jobs from my concrete buddies. Usually we go in and dig out all the dirt, then there isn't enough to finish grade things back and I'm stuck trucking more dirt back in. Here' we made sure to leave a nice pile. It's easier to lose some extra dirt somewhere on the property than to haul more back in after we have taken it out.
Your knowledge is outstanding!! I was wondering how long have you had your business? May I also ask what you did before? You seem to have a multitude of skills!!!!
@@GCFD I was wondering where your animal knowledge came from, thought it might've been a hobby. It's quite interesting when you share some of the species you find on the job.
If you have not created a reasonable foundation and have not used a parole, the concrete will soon look exactly like the broken concrete you tore out and you forgot to allow a joint between the house wall and the concrete surface.
Ahh, the wellknown species of the youtubus specialistus! Not even close to extinction they appear in every comment section with their advice on every every everything. The world can only wait for their evolution from commenters to doers so we can finaly reach perfection every every everywhere!
@@noeraldinkabam well if he is rite that means withing Teo years it will start sinking since I believe they will have that heavy travel trailer stationed on top of it.
Thys is another prime example of idiots that shouldn't be doin any type of work they neither use rebar or mesh or a vibrator wat a waist of money wen it's only gonna crack up just like the 1 b4 he ripped it up. When u see sum1 pouring concrete witout rebar or mesh fire them dnt listen 2 their lies, its needed no matter where u live wat a bunch of bull it's not needed that's just a lazy company not wantin 2 do the job correctly
Thys guy just contradicted of wat he said bout soil bein stable if it was stable then 1st pad would not of sunken to begin wit & ur compactor didnt go deep enuff, so stop scamming people.
@@uglyjordanuglyjordan1744 "Idiots" says the person that misspelled 18 words in the span of two, extremely run on, sentences. I thought I was having a stroke trying to read them. You don't know the location. You don't know the local code. He said that the previous pad settled because the installers did not compact the soil prior to pouring the slab. His team did the proper compacting, negating the need for reinforcement. It was compacted with both the rolling of the bobcat and the plate compactor. Feel free to show us your handiwork and let the world critique it.
@@linkinprk1981 coreslab structures Oklahoma city ok 5 yrs 4 & 1/2 yrs as a foreman my work can be seen in Arkansas Texas Kansas Nebraska Missouri & Florida
That's one of the first things I was thinking as well. As the ground shifts over the next few years, it seems this is just asking to start cracking all over again.
You are not alone in this question. I was also wondering why they did not anker it to the house wall to avoid it sinking again. But its not the first time i seen this in the states (on RUclips ofc as I'm from Sweden ^^)
No one uses rebar here for non-structural concrete. The reason is we have extremely stable subsoils here (no bentonite) and we don't have a frost line here so no heaving. We do very rarely see rebar in tear-outs that we do.
I think they have their place. For a small pour like this a pump is pretty expensive and cleanup is a lot more. I rent my concrete buggy to Harvey for $80/day. Plus the bobcat so it takes about 20 mins to pour a truck (11 yards).
Why would you use a concrete buggy for that long of a distance and that size of a poor when you could use a pump? I can't imagine with the increase labor, time, Fuel, and wear and tear on the buggy it's not cheaper to rent a pump. Also how long did it take to empty out that truck? I know where I live concrete has to be poured within an hour and a half of that truck leaving the fill site
I rent the buggy to Harvey for $80/ day. It took about 20 mins to empty the truck, but the main reason is setup/cleanup. A pump truck takes longer to set up the hoses and a lot longer to clean everything up. Running laps with the buggy and skid steer makes pretty quick work of the 11 yards in a truck.
....wow....monolithic pour of that size and no rebar....reasonable to assume first cracks will occur off corners of house. It's going to move and so will slab, no matter how incrementally. Local codes not withstanding, if I'm planning on being in that house longterm, I'm using rebar to ensure a long, stable life.
HI David - I haven't heard of anyone in our area who uses rebar for non structural concrete (driveways, patios, sidewalks). We do very rarely encounter rebar on tear-outs. Where are you from because it sounds like you're in a different climate (frost line) or geology (you have dynamic subsoils?).
Maybe since you are having to take the time to keep writing out explanations on the concrete, instead you could pre record a little quick info segment to stick into each video where you pour a large slab at least. Or have a written quick explanation at the end of the video, or say in the video, if you want to know about why we had the concrete done as it was, then go to the video info box. You could have the same explanation written there when necessary. Save you time.
@@GCFD Always a good video when you say "we're on a job here in Grensboro" - if it's not in Greensboro it ain't a video ;-) KIDDING - huge fan #FatDad #Canberra #Australia 🦘🇦🇺🦘 #Ally 🏳️🌈
I get that the concrete sunk a bit, and it's not the ideal situation, but why not just seal it off by adding some concrete, and creating a slope going into the driveway away from the house instead of demoing and pouring a whole new driveway? Wouldn't that still work and be more cost effective?
Hey Angela - With the driveway sloping into the house the water is draining towards the house. Trying to seal it would help for sure. The problem is you're fighting the water trying to flow downhill and any tiny leak would make the sealing process useless. By re-doing the driveway the water now sheds away from the house naturally. More and more rain means the water flows away faster and faster. This is the only solution that offers 100% results, which is why we did it this way. Great question!
@@GCFD Thanks so much for the reply! I understand what you're saying, but I think you might have missed the second part of my comment. I was asking why not instead add a concrete slope to the current driveway (which would slope away from the house), instead of demoing and adding a new driveway?
Because there's no way to ensure the new concrete slope properly adheres to the old slab and makes a waterproof connection. The tiniest leak and the flooding would be back. Anything I charge for to fix the flooding places me on the hook for the results. The only way to ensure 100% effectiveness is to make the concrete slope away from the house. As long as the concrete slopes towards the house nothing I can do is 100%.
One of the themes that I'm noticing in your videos is that a lot of those "basement flooding" problems have brick all the way to the level of the dirt or or block foundations. That's just asking for trouble. None of theses would survive the kinds of winters we've got north of the border. The freeze and thaw cycle will push over anything short of a poured in place concrete foundation. Your winters are a lot milder, but over time, after enough freeze and thaw cycles, cracking and movements of those block and brick foundations is almost inevitable. The more videos I see from the US, the more I understand what happened in Texas and why. Building code in the US needs a serious overhaul.
Thanks for commenting Jonathan! We don't really have freeze thaw cycles here, except for air. A water bottle kept in the car doesn't freeze overnight here even if the temps dip down because the cold doesn't last very long. Here, they close schools the evening before if they are calling for sub freezing temps!
@@GCFD Geez! Over here, you can have a foot of snow fall overnight and by morning, the streets are clear and everybody is going about their businesses. It takes a total blizzard or freezing rain to close school. Freezing rain is particularly dangerous given that I live in a rather hilly city.
Do you think waterproofing the concrete would be a great idea? Cause overtime with rain and sun they could deterioate the concrete durability pretty fast...
heads up, get half inch steel rod with t handle weld pipe for t handle comfortable for ur hand size, use as probe in uncompacted area think 2 to 4 feet excavated then re compact solve settlement issue who i am is 40 years inspector certified state of Minnesota 7 areas 40 years experience to corp of engineers and bridges, residential sub developments, and non destructive forensics, note know as the problem solver lol, retired now ... seriously get ur probe push in the soil watch the different very soft ... many other indicators to do extreme nice guaranty not to settle work amen
Yes I did build a probe out of some ground rod. Mine that I built works better than the fiberglass one I bought. That's a great idea to check compaction.
It depends on the location. Areas that have freeze/thaw should have it. Also areas that have bentonite or subsoils that shift around should have it. Here we have clay and no freeze/thaw cycling.
Do concrete companies get mad or charge more when you buggy the concrete and keep them there longer compared to the just doing a quick pullup and dump?
Up here the trucks have clocks on them so U get X minutes a yd, if U go over U just pay a lil more based on how many minutes. They also chg a short fee if U have a small job.
We don't get mad about it. One of the reasons I got the concrete buggy was because I knew Harvey would be renting it from me. It's handy to have your own equipment (or easy access to it) to help your customers.
You could have put a drain under that down pipe under the slab into the garden and into wot we call in the uk soak away dig a yard by a yard square and a yard deep filled it a third the way will plenty of rubble have your drain pipe run into it 6 inches under cround with a 90 bend on it smoker rubble on top plastic to cover hole back fill with soil,,
That is a great idea Steve! We don't do dry wells like that because we have fairly impermeable soil here and the dry well quickly becomes overwhelmed with heavy rain. By letting it run off the driveway the more rain we get the faster it runs away instead of overburdening the dry well with more and more rain. Great comment!
At the end, what is that Bobcat attachment you used to level out the dirt pile in the back? At first I thought it was a brush hog. I don't recall you using that before.
I do have a brush hog for the mini, but that is a power box rake (harley rake). It's a very useful tool for finish grading. Here's the vid: ruclips.net/video/LRW7lKvpL8o/видео.html
HI Andrew - See the other comments. Rebar is not required in our area and no one uses it for non-structural concrete. We don't have bentonite or frost heaving here.
No. Safety is the number one concern. On my crew, I ask the guys if they want to take on some jobs. If they don't feel safe, I pass on it. I make sure everyone on my crew has everything they need, PPE, tools, materials. We all feel comfortable working in construction so that's a big help.
Greensboro, What State? Shaun...just say the State. Many many people don't know what State. Think about the people watching. Greensboro North Carolina? South Carolina? Help us out.
Yes I’ve thought about it for sure. So far the Harley rake works for the finish grading. The fill doesn’t need to be completely clean except for the top layer. I know screened dirt is expensive so maybe I could offer that for sale too.
Have you done projects where you stamp the concrete? Can you show us how that is done and a project where you have stamped the concrete? That is something I want done to a sidewalk around the house to the back deck.
Guarantee that concrete will sink again. Definitely an amature crew. Improper compaction, no tie in to existing concrete or structure, way to slow of a pouring method. Guess they never heard of a concrete pumper. Wasted money.
My concrete guy has been doing it this way since before I was born. I'm surprised you make such confident statements without knowing any specifics about location or how long things really took. You say it's a waste of money from a condensed video. Interesting Mike.
That would be cool for sure. I looked up that machine and a used one is going for 100k! We can make a lot of trips to the concrete recycling (they take it for free and crush it up) for that. Thanks for posting Kris.
Concrete pumps cost in the thousands of dollars and take a lot to clean up. Buggies and skid steer buckets are easy to clean and we already own them. 👍
Just a guess, but I'd say it's to protect the grass seeds while they germinate, from the sun, then after they take root, it acts as a natural mulch to add much needed nutrients to the soil for the grass to use, also it's a much nicer finish to the job, as it doesn't leave a lot of bare ground that would just be at the mercy of the elements, like water erosion.
No one uses rebar around here. The reason is we have extremely stable subsoils (no bentonite) and very little subsurface water. We have no frost line here either.
The corrugated is working fine and the new concrete is all sloping the correct way. With so little fall it's better to let the water run across the concrete instead of trying to get it to flow through a pipe with little fall.
Now I’m this scenario my question wouldn’t work due to new slab extension and condition of old slab but if the slab was only a few years old would you have considered the foam injection method to bring the pad back up to level?
You must have bentonite in your area! We are lucky to have extremely stable subsoils and very little subsurface water in our area. Makes for easy pouring.
I got my sidewalk polyjacked. Great company but it did not raise the sidewalk enough, i still have puddles. They told me its a hit or miss, but I don't have no leaks so far
Makes me cringe when I see pours like this with no rebar in the slab. Certainly much easier but it will crack and shift in an unpredictable fashion. For the little extra expense and time to do something that can't be added later it is a crime to do a pour without it. An expansion joint at the house and drilled rods to anchor the new slab so that it doesn't change elevation. Control joints are also a sign of quality. A vapor barrier also is beneficial during the cure and later in the life of the slab as well. I hate to say it but this is a very amateurish effort.
Thanks for sharing Douglas. Where are you located? I ask because we don't need rebar here in this part of NC. The reason is we have no frost line and no bentonite. Our subsoils are ancient clays with no recent glaciation events. No one around here uses rebar for non structural concrete. So you're observations seem to be through another location's lens that doesn't apply to this video. I'm surprised you make these sweeping conclusions by applying our work to your location instead of asking why we do things our way.
The sacrificial strip of concrete is a smart idea. All the little tips from the pros who do it every day can really make all the difference. Looks good, great job!
Yes I thought so too. That's why I added it into the video. Cool little tip.
It's that little bit of extra effort that separates the okay companies from the great companies.
👍 I agree!
I'm glad to see drainage contractors as good as you . You Care about your customers and your quality work.
Its always cool when you have room to get machines in.
👍
from the Netherlands thanks for the video
Thank you!
1:05 that's convincing!
7:24 interesting idea! never thought of this before...
Same. They know all the tricks.
Best part about them old trucks.... they're paid for, and less overhead than a fleet payment.
for sure!
Hiya, you mention many times that you send old concrete to be recycled after you have cleared obstacles that cause flooding etc. Could you do a video on concrete recycling please? I know there are RUclips videos on the subject but I like the way you explain things. I love watching your channel even if my friends think I’m weird 😂😂. Keep up the good work & channel Shawn.
Russell (Nottingham, England).
Hey Russell. Most concrete recycling places have yards where they let you dump the concrete and then every so often they bring in the crusher and a huge excavator and grind it up. The place closest to me is currently charging to dump concrete because their pile is high. Once their pile gets smaller they will start letting us dump for cheap or free again. I have seen the crusher working once but didn't have my camera at the time.
Great job here sir, music is awesome also.
Thank you lloyd!
your concrete buggy has been paying for itself, what a good investment! I have always wanted one of those since honda made them back in the 90's
The sacrificial strip between the new slab and the existing driveway is a good idea. The mark of an experienced concrete contractor. Initially, when viewing the pouring process, I was thinking that you should be making joints or grooves in the slab but later in the finished product I see that grooves have been added. Some other viewers commented about the absence of mesh reinforcement, which you have replied to. Nonetheless, I would have placed minimal rebars for good measure because it wouldn't have added too much to the overall cost. Or perhaps I would offer it as an option to the customer. Anyway, good job. You're not too far in reaching 20k subs.
I've asked the concrete guy about rebar and he says no one uses it here so its not worth it. I don't think I've seen rebar in any tear-out but he does see it once in a while. I keep saying I'm going to do a 20k sub special video, so I need to get to it!
Shawn: Liking the ever-improving PRODUCTION with each video. Great Job! Apologies if this comment double posted.
Thank you! As the channel has become popular in the last 6 months I've tried to improve the quality of the videos too!
Major improvement....great job by all......I thought for a minute they were leaving that patio stone in place. I'm thinking why would the customer want to leave that.....then you guys start tearing it out....lol
Hahah Whew!
Great job as always. Have a great weekend.
Thank you!
This was a fantastic video to watch, simple yet effective. You have a great crew! Awesome job!
Thank you! I liked it too. On these concrete jobs I can spend all my time with the cameras and I think I get good shots.
That bobcat mt85 is a really handy machine to own.Another great looking job shawn
Yes that bobcat has been great.
Painting my trailer, guess it in the way!! Sods Law: If it can happen, it will happen.
👍
You dirt perfect and a few other youtuber use that haley rake and man what a nice finish it leaves!
Always enjoy when you have a new video to watch!
Thank you!
Great job Gate City!!!
I knew what you were going to do as soon as I saw you standing by the extra dirt. Harley rakes are awesome.
Keep up the good work and videos Sean.
Thank you Ed! I'd like to get more finish grading jobs from my concrete buddies. Usually we go in and dig out all the dirt, then there isn't enough to finish grade things back and I'm stuck trucking more dirt back in. Here' we made sure to leave a nice pile. It's easier to lose some extra dirt somewhere on the property than to haul more back in after we have taken it out.
Absolutely 👍
That spot at the back is now usable, job done well!
👍
Always excited when you upload!
Thank you Ben!
Great job
Hey Shaun, 11:50 your dirt pile looks like it's got a bit of a drainage problem, know anyone who could fix it?
Hahah there are some frogs living in there so I have left it alone for now 👍
Ahhhh…. Ye old Harley rake. Good job Shawn.
I really like that rake!
Your knowledge is outstanding!! I was wondering how long have you had your business? May I also ask what you did before? You seem to have a multitude of skills!!!!
I was a professional biologist, then community college bio instructor. Now drainage guy. lol
@@GCFD I was wondering where your animal knowledge came from, thought it might've been a hobby. It's quite interesting when you share some of the species you find on the job.
@@silverclaw4 ... I like that too 😊
If you have not created a reasonable foundation and have not used a parole, the concrete will soon look exactly like the broken concrete you tore out and you forgot to allow a joint between the house wall and the concrete surface.
👍
What’s missing, ike a felt strip or something?
Ahh, the wellknown species of the youtubus specialistus! Not even close to extinction they appear in every comment section with their advice on every every everything. The world can only wait for their evolution from commenters to doers so we can finaly reach perfection every every everywhere!
@@noeraldinkabam well if he is rite that means withing Teo years it will start sinking since I believe they will have that heavy travel trailer stationed on top of it.
Another great video!
Thank you!
Awesome job.
Concrete looks 👌gooooooddd. But where's the rebar. Hope the owner isn't parking that travel trailer on there with no rebar.
No rebar needed in our area. We have stable subsoils (no bentonite) and no frost line.
You are a class act, one of the best customer minded contractors I've ever encountered.
Thank you Joey. I enjoy doing nice work so it's natural for me.
Another great job Sean
Thank you!
Just a random question. Do you guys not need steel reinforcements in your concrete?
Correct. Not needed in our area because we have stable subsoils and no frost line.
Thys is another prime example of idiots that shouldn't be doin any type of work they neither use rebar or mesh or a vibrator wat a waist of money wen it's only gonna crack up just like the 1 b4 he ripped it up. When u see sum1 pouring concrete witout rebar or mesh fire them dnt listen 2 their lies, its needed no matter where u live wat a bunch of bull it's not needed that's just a lazy company not wantin 2 do the job correctly
Thys guy just contradicted of wat he said bout soil bein stable if it was stable then 1st pad would not of sunken to begin wit & ur compactor didnt go deep enuff, so stop scamming people.
@@uglyjordanuglyjordan1744 "Idiots" says the person that misspelled 18 words in the span of two, extremely run on, sentences. I thought I was having a stroke trying to read them. You don't know the location. You don't know the local code. He said that the previous pad settled because the installers did not compact the soil prior to pouring the slab. His team did the proper compacting, negating the need for reinforcement. It was compacted with both the rolling of the bobcat and the plate compactor. Feel free to show us your handiwork and let the world critique it.
@@linkinprk1981 coreslab structures Oklahoma city ok 5 yrs 4 & 1/2 yrs as a foreman my work can be seen in Arkansas Texas Kansas Nebraska Missouri & Florida
I miss seeing Grandpa with the concrete crew???
He's coming up soon Larry!
Why are you not using welded wire mesh or re-bar ?
That's one of the first things I was thinking as well. As the ground shifts over the next few years, it seems this is just asking to start cracking all over again.
@@whiteknightcat there wasn't any in the stuff they took out either. must not be required by code there. IMO stupid
I am also wondering this
You are not alone in this question. I was also wondering why they did not anker it to the house wall to avoid it sinking again.
But its not the first time i seen this in the states (on RUclips ofc as I'm from Sweden ^^)
No one uses rebar here for non-structural concrete. The reason is we have extremely stable subsoils here (no bentonite) and we don't have a frost line here so no heaving. We do very rarely see rebar in tear-outs that we do.
Great videos.
👍
Your concrete guys need to invest in a concrete pump. It would go so fast. We use pumps out west!
I think they have their place. For a small pour like this a pump is pretty expensive and cleanup is a lot more. I rent my concrete buggy to Harvey for $80/day. Plus the bobcat so it takes about 20 mins to pour a truck (11 yards).
Why would you use a concrete buggy for that long of a distance and that size of a poor when you could use a pump?
I can't imagine with the increase labor, time, Fuel, and wear and tear on the buggy it's not cheaper to rent a pump.
Also how long did it take to empty out that truck? I know where I live concrete has to be poured within an hour and a half of that truck leaving the fill site
I rent the buggy to Harvey for $80/ day. It took about 20 mins to empty the truck, but the main reason is setup/cleanup. A pump truck takes longer to set up the hoses and a lot longer to clean everything up. Running laps with the buggy and skid steer makes pretty quick work of the 11 yards in a truck.
You’ve been having cables popping up at every job lately. May the next be cable free. 😁
👍👍
Man your company seem to take care of its customers with care.
Yes! Thank you!
Cheers
👍 Thank you Laurie!
They could have used a little more stone under that slab, don't you think ?
We had some nice stable subsoil so we were good. Sometime we come to subsoils that need more rock. We either add it or dig out and correct.
....wow....monolithic pour of that size and no rebar....reasonable to assume first cracks will occur off corners of house. It's going to move and so will slab, no matter how incrementally. Local codes not withstanding, if I'm planning on being in that house longterm, I'm using rebar to ensure a long, stable life.
HI David - I haven't heard of anyone in our area who uses rebar for non structural concrete (driveways, patios, sidewalks). We do very rarely encounter rebar on tear-outs. Where are you from because it sounds like you're in a different climate (frost line) or geology (you have dynamic subsoils?).
Maybe since you are having to take the time to keep writing out explanations on the concrete, instead you could pre record a little quick info segment to stick into each video where you pour a large slab at least. Or have a written quick explanation at the end of the video, or say in the video, if you want to know about why we had the concrete done as it was, then go to the video info box. You could have the same explanation written there when necessary. Save you time.
Why no rebar in this concrete?
Not needed in our area. We have very stable subsoils with no bentonite and no frost heaving. We do occasionally see rebar in tear outs.
The red soil is mostly clay I suspect. I presume it doesn't drain very much water. It looks like it compacts nicely.
Yes we're famous for our red clay in the Southeastern US.
No schedule 40 PVC at a full bubble but a great job nonetheless! 👍
👍 Thank you Steve!
@@GCFD Always a good video when you say "we're on a job here in Grensboro" - if it's not in Greensboro it ain't a video ;-)
KIDDING - huge fan
#FatDad #Canberra #Australia 🦘🇦🇺🦘
#Ally 🏳️🌈
I was going to say it does pay for you to store dirt from other place, so that you can use it on other jobs.
I get that the concrete sunk a bit, and it's not the ideal situation, but why not just seal it off by adding some concrete, and creating a slope going into the driveway away from the house instead of demoing and pouring a whole new driveway? Wouldn't that still work and be more cost effective?
Hey Angela - With the driveway sloping into the house the water is draining towards the house. Trying to seal it would help for sure. The problem is you're fighting the water trying to flow downhill and any tiny leak would make the sealing process useless. By re-doing the driveway the water now sheds away from the house naturally. More and more rain means the water flows away faster and faster. This is the only solution that offers 100% results, which is why we did it this way. Great question!
@@GCFD Thanks so much for the reply! I understand what you're saying, but I think you might have missed the second part of my comment. I was asking why not instead add a concrete slope to the current driveway (which would slope away from the house), instead of demoing and adding a new driveway?
Because there's no way to ensure the new concrete slope properly adheres to the old slab and makes a waterproof connection. The tiniest leak and the flooding would be back. Anything I charge for to fix the flooding places me on the hook for the results. The only way to ensure 100% effectiveness is to make the concrete slope away from the house. As long as the concrete slopes towards the house nothing I can do is 100%.
Why no rebar? Or crusher run?
We used ABC which is the same as crush and run from th e quarry. We don't use rebar in our area because we don't have any bentonite and no frost line.
One of the themes that I'm noticing in your videos is that a lot of those "basement flooding" problems have brick all the way to the level of the dirt or or block foundations. That's just asking for trouble. None of theses would survive the kinds of winters we've got north of the border. The freeze and thaw cycle will push over anything short of a poured in place concrete foundation. Your winters are a lot milder, but over time, after enough freeze and thaw cycles, cracking and movements of those block and brick foundations is almost inevitable. The more videos I see from the US, the more I understand what happened in Texas and why. Building code in the US needs a serious overhaul.
Thanks for commenting Jonathan! We don't really have freeze thaw cycles here, except for air. A water bottle kept in the car doesn't freeze overnight here even if the temps dip down because the cold doesn't last very long. Here, they close schools the evening before if they are calling for sub freezing temps!
@@GCFD Geez! Over here, you can have a foot of snow fall overnight and by morning, the streets are clear and everybody is going about their businesses. It takes a total blizzard or freezing rain to close school. Freezing rain is particularly dangerous given that I live in a rather hilly city.
Good job. Your dump truck has no
Lights on the right rear.
👍 Thanks for letting me know.
Never seen anyone pour concrete wo rebar.
You must not be in Central NC.
Do you think waterproofing the concrete would be a great idea? Cause overtime with rain and sun they could deterioate the concrete durability pretty fast...
No I don't think it matters. I have concrete at my place that is 6 years old and still looks great.
and what about the windows that now are on the floor level? won't they get water even with the slope?
Why no rebar in concrete projects?
No frost line and no bentonite in our area. We do very rarely see rebar in tear-outs.
are you in an area that never freezes and therefore your concrete jobs do not need any rebar or concrete mesh by code?
What was those line in the ground ?
No it was an internet line that never got buried after they ran it.
heads up, get half inch steel rod with t handle weld pipe for t handle comfortable for ur hand size, use as probe in uncompacted area think 2 to 4 feet excavated then re compact solve settlement issue who i am is 40 years inspector certified state of Minnesota 7 areas 40 years experience to corp of engineers and bridges, residential sub developments, and non destructive forensics, note know as the problem solver lol, retired now ... seriously get ur probe push in the soil watch the different very soft ... many other indicators to do extreme nice guaranty not to settle work amen
your stock pile has drainage issues ahahahh time for calol that guy sean ahahhaha at gate city heheheee
Yes I did build a probe out of some ground rod. Mine that I built works better than the fiberglass one I bought. That's a great idea to check compaction.
There are some frogs that moved into that puddle so I have left it there.
@@GCFD no heart sad ahhaha love u guys there great times when watching, high 5
When should rebar be there and when is not necessary?
It depends on the location. Areas that have freeze/thaw should have it. Also areas that have bentonite or subsoils that shift around should have it. Here we have clay and no freeze/thaw cycling.
@@GCFD Thanks.
Does the bobcat hold more concrete than the buggy? I noticed you switched machines towards the end of the pour.
I'm not sure which holds more but we use them both at the same time to speed things up. 👍
Do concrete companies get mad or charge more when you buggy the concrete and keep them there longer compared to the just doing a quick pullup and dump?
Up here the trucks have clocks on them so U get X minutes a yd, if U go over U just pay a lil more based on how many minutes. They also chg a short fee if U have a small job.
We don't get mad about it. One of the reasons I got the concrete buggy was because I knew Harvey would be renting it from me. It's handy to have your own equipment (or easy access to it) to help your customers.
Are they saw cuts?
Yes they are saw cut joints.
I'm missing the full bubble part...
👍
You could have put a drain under that down pipe under the slab into the garden and into wot we call in the uk soak away dig a yard by a yard square and a yard deep filled it a third the way will plenty of rubble have your drain pipe run into it 6 inches under cround with a 90 bend on it smoker rubble on top plastic to cover hole back fill with soil,,
That is a great idea Steve! We don't do dry wells like that because we have fairly impermeable soil here and the dry well quickly becomes overwhelmed with heavy rain. By letting it run off the driveway the more rain we get the faster it runs away instead of overburdening the dry well with more and more rain. Great comment!
Why no rebar, Shawn?
No one uses it in this area. It's because we have stable subsoils (no bentonite) and no frost heaving.
At the end, what is that Bobcat attachment you used to level out the dirt pile in the back? At first I thought it was a brush hog. I don't recall you using that before.
I do have a brush hog for the mini, but that is a power box rake (harley rake). It's a very useful tool for finish grading. Here's the vid:
ruclips.net/video/LRW7lKvpL8o/видео.html
Looks really good. Did the owner think about moving the downspout to a different location?
He is going to install a larger downspout but its position is good 👍
The plastic liner to protect the brick ends up being left in the concrete, do you get any customers complaining about that?
No it's super thin plastic so easily removed. Customers appreciate us protecting their property from concrete splash. 👍
Hi again Shawn. Why did you not use rebar for the concrete driveway and extension? Andrew
HI Andrew - See the other comments. Rebar is not required in our area and no one uses it for non-structural concrete. We don't have bentonite or frost heaving here.
Ever get injuries working with such heavy materials?
No. Safety is the number one concern. On my crew, I ask the guys if they want to take on some jobs. If they don't feel safe, I pass on it. I make sure everyone on my crew has everything they need, PPE, tools, materials. We all feel comfortable working in construction so that's a big help.
Why no rebar?
No rebar?
Correct. Not needed in our area.
Why is there no metal in this concrete?
Because we don't need it in our area. We have no frost heaving and no bentonite.
Greensboro, What State? Shaun...just say the State. Many many people don't know what State. Think about the people watching. Greensboro North Carolina? South Carolina? Help us out.
Greensboro NC.
Love the channel and your work! Ever think of building a screeder to clean up that fill? I am sure you can engineer and build it yourself.
Yes I’ve thought about it for sure. So far the Harley rake works for the finish grading. The fill doesn’t need to be completely clean except for the top layer. I know screened dirt is expensive so maybe I could offer that for sale too.
why no screen? its not gonna last very long
Where's the rebar mesh?
Have you done projects where you stamp the concrete? Can you show us how that is done and a project where you have stamped the concrete? That is something I want done to a sidewalk around the house to the back deck.
Harvey says stamping is too difficult and expensive so we've never done it. I do get requests for it though.
Guarantee that concrete will sink again. Definitely an amature crew. Improper compaction, no tie in to existing concrete or structure, way to slow of a pouring method. Guess they never heard of a concrete pumper. Wasted money.
My concrete guy has been doing it this way since before I was born. I'm surprised you make such confident statements without knowing any specifics about location or how long things really took. You say it's a waste of money from a condensed video. Interesting Mike.
No Reo?
have you thought about a small rock crusher? turn that concreate into gravel fill right on-site? K-JC503 Mobile Jaw Crusher
That would be cool for sure. I looked up that machine and a used one is going for 100k! We can make a lot of trips to the concrete recycling (they take it for free and crush it up) for that. Thanks for posting Kris.
@@GCFD Worth asking, we pay for recycling where i am, and i didnt know if you did enough backfill gravel for it to be worth it.
Why no concrete pump to eliminate the need for buggies?
Concrete pumps cost in the thousands of dollars and take a lot to clean up. Buggies and skid steer buckets are easy to clean and we already own them. 👍
@@GCFD Makes sense. I have no experience in this so figured I would ask out of curiosity.
Enjoyed your video. How do you avoid using rebar?
We don't have any bentonite or frost line here. No one uses rebar in non structural concrete.
what's the function of the straw on top of the grass seeds?
Just a guess, but I'd say it's to protect the grass seeds while they germinate, from the sun, then after they take root, it acts as a natural mulch to add much needed nutrients to the soil for the grass to use, also it's a much nicer finish to the job, as it doesn't leave a lot of bare ground that would just be at the mercy of the elements, like water erosion.
Like Ranger said above... 👍
Huge deal is the vibration they did
Yes prep is everything!
What does the hay you put on top of new dirt do
prevent erosion from drainage (although it's temporary). also prevents mud from splattering around during a rain storm.
Like Jetah said. Plus is protects the seeds from predators and holds moisture.
@@GCFD I missed the seeding part!
No wire or rebar?
You got it. No bentonite either. 👍
Gate City Foundation Drainage and Concrete, LLC
👍👍
Each layer should have been compacted.
We see improper compacting all the time.
Where’s the rebar?
No one uses rebar around here. The reason is we have extremely stable subsoils (no bentonite) and very little subsurface water. We have no frost line here either.
👍👍
👍👍
Hey Seán
Great job as always but why not tie the gutter into the corrugated system and or replace the corrugated system?
The corrugated is working fine and the new concrete is all sloping the correct way. With so little fall it's better to let the water run across the concrete instead of trying to get it to flow through a pipe with little fall.
One of the worst job I've ever witnessed...
Why's that? We fixed the sunken concrete and gave it a pretty aggressive fall away from the house.
Now I’m this scenario my question wouldn’t work due to new slab extension and condition of old slab but if the slab was only a few years old would you have considered the foam injection method to bring the pad back up to level?
Hey Matt you could definitely mud jack it. There are issues with that solution in that it doesn't last long and creates space for moisture.
I'd caulk it or put in a flashing.
Haha 👍
ya never bother potting down mesh into concrete
Watch David Odell to see real pro
He's awesome!
And you would NOT get paid for that by me needs to be at least 15 inches of hardcore befor you put the last 8 inches of concrete on top
You must have bentonite in your area! We are lucky to have extremely stable subsoils and very little subsurface water in our area. Makes for easy pouring.
Stamped concrete would break up the massive appearance and foam could jack up the edge by the front of the trailer so both would be in alignment.
Great idea!
I got my sidewalk polyjacked. Great company but it did not raise the sidewalk enough, i still have puddles. They told me its a hit or miss, but I don't have no leaks so far
Makes me cringe when I see pours like this with no rebar in the slab. Certainly much easier but it will crack and shift in an unpredictable fashion. For the little extra expense and time to do something that can't be added later it is a crime to do a pour without it. An expansion joint at the house and drilled rods to anchor the new slab so that it doesn't change elevation. Control joints are also a sign of quality. A vapor barrier also is beneficial during the cure and later in the life of the slab as well. I hate to say it but this is a very amateurish effort.
Thanks for sharing Douglas. Where are you located? I ask because we don't need rebar here in this part of NC. The reason is we have no frost line and no bentonite. Our subsoils are ancient clays with no recent glaciation events. No one around here uses rebar for non structural concrete. So you're observations seem to be through another location's lens that doesn't apply to this video. I'm surprised you make these sweeping conclusions by applying our work to your location instead of asking why we do things our way.