You deserve $150 for the set of custom tools you show just for your experience. Have you ever had a problem with the crankshaft sitting too low from main bearing wear, thus causing a leak from being imperfectly centered? On the multitude of gasoline engines I've had my hands on, I always re-surface the crankshaft and install new bearings just to avoid this problem. It's especially important to have healthy crank and bearings to avoid damage to the ream main seals, automatic front seals and the automatic front pump and bushing for the torque converter. My mantra... round and true is a good thing. It avoids leaks and preserves balance. ;-)
Kent, you sure come up with some really neat tools! My humble request would be for two tools for W126: 1. Removal tool for the engine mounts 2. Removal tool for Starter on M117 engine I guess you know why! Sincerely Peter
Kent, What type of sealant do you use for the outside of the seal? Can you sell the red super sticky grease for the inside of the seal and sealant for the outside of the seal? Thanks
Aviation permatex sealant is what I use on the outside. I no longer use the sticky grease because I came up with a new tool to install the front crank seal that guarantees not rolling the lip. The sealant is included with the kit. mercedessource.com/store/617-turbo-diesel-engine-front-crank-seal-replacement-kit
I have a 1962 220Sb Fintail W111.012 Chassis with the M180 engine that has a leaky seal, does it also have a race that needs to be replaced? If so, do you sell those as well?
Yes, the race and seal are almost identical ( seal is slightly smaller) but the install tools work without modification. I am working on a kit now for the 1960's 6-cylinder engines and should have it ready in about a week.
Hey Kent, pretty slick kit. I’ll be buying one soon. Looking at the video though, it would seem that if you installed the seal before installing the race, and then used the balancer and the crank bolt to drive in the race that it would accomplish the same thing. I guess you’d then have to remove the balancer to inspect the seal. Any input on that?
Try that, and you will be sorry. The race does not just "slide" into the seal. Doing it that way would roll the lip and damage the seal, and you would never know because you could not inspect it. In a few months it would start leaking again and you don't want to do this job twice. That is the purpose of my kit - just once!
The seal will wear a groove in the race over time. If you just replace the seal and it lines up with the old groove, it can shorten the life of the new seal. It is time-consuming to replace the seal, and you really don't want to do it again in a couple years (or even sooner if the race is severely worn.).
thank you for the great video Mr. Kent. I own many of your tools for w123 300d .. I do need to change front crank seal on my w124 300d .. any solutions??
Kent, What a great tool and your video instructions are always excellent for the DYI community !
You deserve $150 for the set of custom tools you show just for your experience. Have you ever had a problem with the crankshaft sitting too low from main bearing wear, thus causing a leak from being imperfectly centered? On the multitude of gasoline engines I've had my hands on, I always re-surface the crankshaft and install new bearings just to avoid this problem. It's especially important to have healthy crank and bearings to avoid damage to the ream main seals, automatic front seals and the automatic front pump and bushing for the torque converter. My mantra... round and true is a good thing. It avoids leaks and preserves balance. ;-)
I don’t have a 240D but I still like this video ,,,,,😂😂 in fact all your videos are awesome 👏🏼
Kent, you sure come up with some really neat tools! My humble request would be for two tools for W126:
1. Removal tool for the engine mounts
2. Removal tool for Starter on M117 engine
I guess you know why! Sincerely Peter
I love this channel I have learned so much from you.
my 240d has a wet crank seal so this is on my list of things to do once it warms up!
Thanx for video, you make it look easy
thanks kent, i dont need it yet but i know i will some day
Can you do a video on the front water drains in the R107. A bit confusing. Thanks
I would like a commentary on the rear main seal on the d300 W123. Thank you.
Just google it. There is lots of info on line.
On the bucket list
Great tools!
Very nice! Driving in seals with a socket is something I never liked. I always worry about the seal being cocked and then leaking.
Kent, What type of sealant do you use for the outside of the seal? Can you sell the red super sticky grease for the inside of the seal and sealant for the outside of the seal? Thanks
Aviation permatex sealant is what I use on the outside. I no longer use the sticky grease because I came up with a new tool to install the front crank seal that guarantees not rolling the lip. The sealant is included with the kit. mercedessource.com/store/617-turbo-diesel-engine-front-crank-seal-replacement-kit
I have a 1983 280E M110 suspected rear main seal do you have any videos for this ?
I'm just asking, cant' you install the race after replacing the seal? So the race slides from the outer part of the seal not tearing the lip
Super tight fit. That would probably be a sure way to pop that spring off on the back side.
@@Mercedessource Well, this answered my question. I was thinking the same thing.
Muy útil e instructivo. ¡gracias por compartir !
I have a 1962 220Sb Fintail W111.012 Chassis with the M180 engine that has a leaky seal, does it also have a race that needs to be replaced? If so, do you sell those as well?
Yes, the race and seal are almost identical ( seal is slightly smaller) but the install tools work without modification. I am working on a kit now for the 1960's 6-cylinder engines and should have it ready in about a week.
@@Mercedessource Awesome, I will keep a lookout for that kit!
Hey Kent, pretty slick kit. I’ll be buying one soon. Looking at the video though, it would seem that if you installed the seal before installing the race, and then used the balancer and the crank bolt to drive in the race that it would accomplish the same thing. I guess you’d then have to remove the balancer to inspect the seal. Any input on that?
Try that, and you will be sorry. The race does not just "slide" into the seal. Doing it that way would roll the lip and damage the seal, and you would never know because you could not inspect it. In a few months it would start leaking again and you don't want to do this job twice. That is the purpose of my kit - just once!
2:46 Hello, i wanted to ask you why you need to replace the race and not only the seal?
The seal will wear a groove in the race over time. If you just replace the seal and it lines up with the old groove, it can shorten the life of the new seal. It is time-consuming to replace the seal, and you really don't want to do it again in a couple years (or even sooner if the race is severely worn.).
@Mercedessource thanks 👍
thank you for the great video Mr. Kent. I own many of your tools for w123 300d .. I do need to change front crank seal on my w124 300d .. any solutions??
Sorry, I do not have any kits, tools, or instructions for that particular job.
Hi Gentleman, if I do order the tools, would you be able to ship them to Europe? Thank you for your answer.
Please email my daughter, Kaia, sales@mercedessource.com and she will try to help. Thanks
@@Mercedessource Thank you very much!
Fantastic
👍
That works
Easy when you know how.
240D 🙌🙌🙌
My man! *Denzel Washington's voice*
👏👏👏🌹