I read the entire Ryan's ruclips.net/user/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 Plans and was able to make a shed plan. Using Ryan's Shed Plans alone, the shed itself is great. Where I wish I knew more is with respect to ground preparation and foundations. Maybe that's beyond the scope of Ryan's Shed Plans.
Absolutely, can't fit a 3" in a 2x4. Running 2x6 is also a lot easier to cross sanitary and domestic lines in the wall. Also using 2x6 is better and easier for dryer duct too.
I agree, I was always trained to use 2x6 when I was a framer building custom homes. Its a no brainer once you see how big they drill the holes for drains. There is no wood left using 2x4
Dang! Who ever gets to hire this man is one very fortunate client! Passionate and experienced! Well done Sir and thank you for sharing your way of doing things with the rest of us🙏🇨🇦. 👍💯😊
Really appreciate the new camera guy. Definitely feels more natural to watch, and we’re able to get a much better picture of what’s going on as he pans around and follows you. It’s gotta be nice to not have to set up every shot on a tripod now too lol. Keep up the great work!
I agree. I love that you are able to focus on telling us what you are doing. I feel like there’s a lot more “content” even though I’ve watched all your other videos also. Keep up the amazing work!
I hope you not paying the camera guy cause I would do that for free Obviousy I won't do such a great job cause those shots look like actual thought went into them. Great job.
We used to do a lot of finished basements where you can't tip up a wall, we used metal stud track top and bottom, deep leg at the top so you don't need to measure every stud, then just screw them in from the sides of the track. Not as pretty as what you guys did, but seems a bit easier to do. You can get slotted track to attach under trusses to cope with bottom chord deflection.
Camera person is a Game Changer! Very wise decision as we have a richer view and description of your detail and reasoning. Brilliant presentation, and bravo for the belt and suspender attitude! 💯 👍🇨🇦
On a whim I ran a bead of wood glue between my king and jack studs on some framing I was doing a while back. The door with the glued king/jack ended up being seriously more sound than the others. I've been glueing ever since!
Thanks for the videos Kyle and Greg.. It's a shame that comments have made it so that you defend you methods. Your work is premium quality and it's privilege to be able to see how you do it.. in detail with excellent explanations, precision and speed.
Hey bro. I come from multiple generations of framing. I framed my first house on my own at 19 years old. I’m now 43. Just want to say yall do great work, and I couldn’t agree more Lazers are awesome.
Most contractors don’t give two cents about the other trades coming in after them. Nice to see you set yourself up for finish work by marking studs on the floor plate.
As a remodeler I am always considering the other trades coming in next , mostly because as a remodeler I do all the framing, plumbing, electrical , flooring and any cabinets. With that said I have screwed my self over more than once.
@@JoeAroner-SIWAYTV I'm a GC but decided to help a framer build a house...that guy just keeps saying screw the other trades. If you want to make money u have to be fast...I only shake my head knowing how much bs he is causing for an extra 2 seconds of work.
Another great video. I look forward to these on Sundays. Laundry day, I sit back, watch and sometimes fall asleep...lol. But, I always back up and watch the whole video
Love me that laser! Two guys pulling string lines running around with levels and nothing was square or plumb. I do it all alone, quickly and perfect. Great video!!
Hey great video, when you mentioned the angle of your nailer with the three inch and said "in case you're wondering." I said out loud "I was wondering." To which you replied "maybe you're not." Good timing, gave me a chuckle.
Great video as always. I think a video detailing which fasteners you use in the various girts, posts, sheathing, ties, etc, would do well. I know they're scattered among all your videos; I'd watch a consolidated video 20 times. It would be very useful.
Appreciate how you bring in prior comments to explain in the present your reasoning. You are paying attention to your 'client audience'👍 🇨🇦 AGain, so well done💯
Love it! That laser sure makes stuff easy! As an electrician, the only downside I can see to those exterior nailers over the Siga, is 1 1/2” doesn’t allow for common Carlon receptacle and switch boxes. You could use shallow boxes, but then I’d be concerned about box fill. Seems fine for the ceiling if all you are doing for lighting is wafer lighting, but it could be a bit of a pain for the walls. I’d love to see a video after the mechanicals are done but before drywall to see how they did it!
Who is doing your videos? Do your kids help you and do they want to continue with doing and learning your trade? Do you ever show the scenes where you almost explode or do explode with pressure from your job? You and Greg seem to have such a great relationship and I'm sure that helps to decrease a ton of job pressure. You constantly put out great videos that go step by step and make everyone able to follows. Well done again on another job.
Essential craftsman. Is a guy definitely worth watching he can swing a stiletto hammer and use a skill saw. He is very much a master at his craft. He reminds me of Larry Haun and brother Joe.
Great video. I'm getting pumped to build my post frame shop and post frame 3 bed, 2 bath home. I'm going to build the shop first and then the home using the same materials and methods that your using. Now I've got to get those laser levels to make my life easier. I've always done it the old school way before lasers were invented.
If you use the 30 degree angle of the gun it’s the perfect toe nailing for nailing jacks to king studs. Just lay the gun flat each time you nail, instead of finding the angle each time.
Great video with lots of helpful information, particularly the details about using crowned wood. I also appreciated the longer format. The tee shirt idea seems like a good one that should ring very familiar for framers.
Amazing series and channel! We recently linked your Channel to our student outreach page for Minnesota Construction Association as a resource for eLearning. Amazing resource for the next generation.
watching your attention to detail is incredible. flawless work from the master joiner kyle and his apprentice minion Greg lol the way you wind Greg up is hilarious. you should wear a t-shirt saying. Dont worry Greg will fix it
The drywall might not come down the wall like you mentioned. That would put the bottom tape bed too low. He may come from the top, then start at the bottom leaving the seam higher which would make it easier to mud. Less bending 1:03
@@lethargicmotorsport2025 of course it will go to the bottom. But do you want to work a seam below the waist line or at the waist line. I’d rather at the waistline
@@marcusjames3035 I agree with your thinking, working all down will give you a better finish. For me two beveled factory edges are much easier to finish than a butt seam and a factory edge .
Hey Kyle, get more carhartt hoodies, with your logo on the back, your sold out, would definitely love to buy one!! Thanks man, awesome job as always! Camera guy doing a great job too!
Kyle, have you ever tried the tapcon pro installation driver kit? It helps, so you don't have to have two drills/drivers. I have three, and they are pretty old but really a time saver. Great stuff today.
On my first day on the job with my dad years ago, he asked me to go grab the plywood stretcher out of the trailer..I will never forget looking for about 20 mins before I returned to him and his partner laughing like crazy. Then I woke up and realized it was all a dream bc he left to go get milk when I was a baby and haven't seen him since. Then I realized you are the goat of construction.
While I can do the measure for a door, a simple jig I have for several door sizes can just be slid to the required door width and the extra space on either side is marked and you have a door frame setup. It helps the folks I train to see how the layout process works.
Regarding Paslode fuel: I used to use pneumatic nailers, and the fuel/battery combo seems nice. My pneumatic guns never needed to fuel and with a good compressor could work uninterrupted all day...but on the other hand, I was dragging hoses and electrical cords all over the place, I don't even want to try and calculate how often I was repairing or replacing those, and I have to have access to electricity to run the compressor. (Also, they're probably why I have tinnitus now.) I think in a shop environment I would still go pneumatic, but for jobsite work those Paslode nailers seem really nice.
The gas framing nailer have a lot of downside to them. They're much more expensive to run, gas cartridges make the nails cost twice the price. You have to maintain them, they need to be stripped and decreased and oiled regularly, cost there as well as time. You shouldn't use them in wet conditions, unlike a pneumatic. The gas fumes that comes out of them, you aren't supposed to breath in. You may be breathing in those fumes thousands of times day, if you're busy. The fan is annoying. Always running out of nails. Not the same power as a pneumatic, struggle in harder timbers, especially if you have to laminate them together. If you want a hoseless solution, better off going with the Milwaukee framer gun, with extended magazine. Its heavy, but you soon get used to it. But it has the power. RR are sponsored by Paslode aren't they? So you know, he may be advertising.
Not a big fan of throwing used fuel cells in garbage. I use my pasload with galvanized for treated plates and pneumatic for everything else. Don't have to switch guns and have a cordless if I want. Also because two cords is a nightmare.
I just did mine for my 2nd story addition I built. I gapped the top plates from the ceiling so the drywall can just go through. No seams so perfect fire barrier. I also gapped at the walls and ran the electrical under the floor. 0 penitration through my vapor barrier. Where my ceiling battens were installed, I put sealing tape between the battens and the ceiling vapor barrier. This is of course only possible if you have no load bearing interior walls.
It’s so enjoyable to watch you work. Your attention on details is impeccable. I am a furniture maker in NE Ohio and would wish to hire you to build my barndo for both shop and living.
First used a paslode back in 2012-2014 in high school shop class. We built a garage every year in the community and hand nailed everything but a few things. Great to never need a big compressor. We only brought out a small one for other jobs
I'm a commercial carpenter, we do a lot of wood framing and a little steel but love these videos to help remind yourself if you start right it ends right! One question: you have alot of different brand tools, do you find that helps you in their efficiency as a tool or does it hinder in the fact that there are different chargers and batteries here and there?? Just wondering for my own . I love the tool reviews! Not knockin the tools just curious on efficiency on a job site!
i have noticed that in the USA you never seem to put a horizontal row of noggins across the centre of the stud wall, why is this? because in the UK we generally do, unless it is metal stud. this stiffens the stud right up and makes for a more solid wall. we also put noggins in the floor joists to. i know what your saying about using untreated timber, it is allot dryer but architects normally specify sawn treated grade c24 as standard practice and sometimes this stuff seems like its just come out of the sea. we generally put a dpm under stud to on concrete floors, good practice . i am a carpenter to but nice to see how things are done in other countries .
Because it’s a post frame structure, none of the stud walls are load bearing, so they don’t need to be crazy strong. Also I think adding blocking would create extra opportunity for air penetration which he’s specifically trying to avoid in this build (similar to how he omitted half the studs in his exterior wall for this reason)
Pro tip for ya. Never build a wet wall with anything less than a 2x6 and the wall with the radiant manifold would be better in a 2x8 wall. Don't crowd the plumbing, and for that matter the electric and hvac too. It's not worth the couple $'s and inches saved.
Hey Kyke! Love watching your videos, im a framer myself and really enjoy the work. I do have a question. When it comes to plumbing, especially bundles of pluming like the first wall you built, why not make it easier and cut the section of plate out around it versus drilling holes?
Oh man I want to drywall this place. I'm a small drywall contractor, I work mostly in custom houses but the framing in this houses is very poor to say the least! This job that you are doing it looks like it could be enjoyable to work in.
@rrbuildings I know it's a year late but I'm really interested in how you addressed truss uplift. Blocking on top of the partition walls, drywall clips, truss clips or screws through top plates for stability, etc. I was wanting to do a monolithic drywall installation like Jake Bruton did on one of their houses but can't get an answer about how he and Steve did the ceiling to partition wall connection (crown molding I'm guessing) Great build and thank you for documenting and presenting such a complex process in an easy to understand way.
I was thinking the same thing. Using engineered lumber in areas where cabinets get hung to ensure a dead flat surface. It can't image the cost difference is that much over the extra labour to manipulate regular studs to make them straight.
It would be cool if you could do a video explaining a bit how you read the blueprints and the planning stages of what you build...just a thought. It'd be cool to see the behind the scenes of what comes before putting walls up.
Question: Since the interior walls are really just partitions, what do you think about hanging and taping the drywall on the exterior walls before framing the interior walls? So the drywall on the exterior walls is an additional continuous envelope around the exterior.
That is what they do in commercial construction, they will leave the last 2x4 loose so the trades can run any systems in the walk then they board the wall then mount the 2x4. Makes it so much faster.
@@robedwards2897 I'm not sure I understand what you mean...Do you mean the partition wall is framed but not attached to the exterior wall until after the plumbing and electrical is finished?
After watching this masterclass, I think viewers should get 3 credit hours from the RRB Community College. Kishwaukee, Rock Valley and Waubonsee have nothing over you.
I'm not sure if you will see this, but do try and avoid laser into camera situations. While it does make for a cool shot, a laser will destroy a camera sensor. Even if it just for a fraction of a second, it's all it will take in some situations depending on the sensor and laser. A dead camera sensor is basically like the engine in your truck blowing up. You will end up spending as much replacing the sensor as buying a whole new camera body.
Liking the new videoing. I’m a cabinetmaker by trade & have been thinking about buying the cordless Milwaukee miter saw for installing crown molding, trim, & such. Curious how you like it & if it meets your expectations?
The insulation geek in me would love to see some rockwool comfortboard 80 - 1 1/2” thick insulation in that service cavity right before drywall for an extra r6.
Personally I prefer treated plates because I can glue them and I don't have to use as many 1/2" redheads. Then I either use all galvanized nails or have two guns one with galvanized for treated. I specifically do basements and build them just like you. Just not dealing with post frame. The only thing I didn't like seeing was no backer in the corners of the exterior for the drywall. If they just float every few feet the taper will go to push with his corner tool and it will push the drywall in. It's at high risk for cracking also. One could nail on 3/4" backer to the back of the stud before installing it. The electrican could then cut out what he needs.
Kyle sorry if I missed it on an earlier video but who is the 3rd member of your crew, running the camera? I think I saw Cole running camera a few videos ago, which is awesome. Video format/approach feels a little different, more like we are along with you while you work rather than you slowing down your work flow to explain stuff to us. I like it.
high quality job done, amazing. have a question here for interior framing on the concrete. sometimes, Pex-A hydronic pipe will floating a little higher when the concrete poured on mesh. how to avoid to damage pipe potentially when drill the hole for Tapcon screw. maybe the concrete is thick enough, more than 2-1/2 or 3 inch, it is safe to drill hole. just curious. thanks.
What set of bags are you wearing now? Those dont look like the grande's. Please share that setup looks perfect for what im looking for. I've been looking to get a good set of SXS's. I've been looking into the badger brand, but those you have on look perfect for what im looking for.
My man is channeling the spirit of Bob Vila. The attention to detail of a true craftsman is a joy to watch.
I read the entire Ryan's ruclips.net/user/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 Plans and was able to make a shed plan. Using Ryan's Shed Plans alone, the shed itself is great. Where I wish I knew more is with respect to ground preparation and foundations. Maybe that's beyond the scope of Ryan's Shed Plans.
I have found that making "Plumbing walls" 2x6, instead of 2x4 walls saves a lot of headaches at all stages of framing and finishing.
Absolutely, can't fit a 3" in a 2x4. Running 2x6 is also a lot easier to cross sanitary and domestic lines in the wall. Also using 2x6 is better and easier for dryer duct too.
100% All the sub-trades appreciate it.
Seems a 2x4 plumbing wall is just begging to eventually get a screw through a pipe. If not the drywaller, then eventually the homeowner
amen to that
I agree, I was always trained to use 2x6 when I was a framer building custom homes. Its a no brainer once you see how big they drill the holes for drains. There is no wood left using 2x4
Dang! Who ever gets to hire this man is one very fortunate client! Passionate and experienced! Well done Sir and thank you for sharing your way of doing things with the rest of us🙏🇨🇦. 👍💯😊
Satisfaction level 10 when the plumbing slid right through the bottom plate
me too!!
Really appreciate the new camera guy. Definitely feels more natural to watch, and we’re able to get a much better picture of what’s going on as he pans around and follows you. It’s gotta be nice to not have to set up every shot on a tripod now too lol. Keep up the great work!
Awesome news thank you
@@RRBuildings As a professional videographer, I can say they're doing a great job. Keep it up!
It was amazing, felt like I was watching a produced television show. Well done video guy!
I agree. I love that you are able to focus on telling us what you are doing. I feel like there’s a lot more “content” even though I’ve watched all your other videos also. Keep up the amazing work!
I hope you not paying the camera guy cause I would do that for free Obviousy I won't do such a great job cause those shots look like actual thought went into them. Great job.
Yep, never fails... outta nails. That would be a great t-shirt. Nice job as usual Kyle and Greg!
We used to do a lot of finished basements where you can't tip up a wall, we used metal stud track top and bottom, deep leg at the top so you don't need to measure every stud, then just screw them in from the sides of the track. Not as pretty as what you guys did, but seems a bit easier to do. You can get slotted track to attach under trusses to cope with bottom chord deflection.
I love high quality craftsmanship. These guys are masters of their craft.
Camera person is a Game Changer! Very wise decision as we have a richer view and description of your detail and reasoning. Brilliant presentation, and bravo for the belt and suspender attitude! 💯 👍🇨🇦
On a whim I ran a bead of wood glue between my king and jack studs on some framing I was doing a while back. The door with the glued king/jack ended up being seriously more sound than the others. I've been glueing ever since!
Thanks for the videos Kyle and Greg.. It's a shame that comments have made it so that you defend you methods. Your work is premium quality and it's privilege to be able to see how you do it.. in detail with excellent explanations, precision and speed.
Hey bro. I come from multiple generations of framing. I framed my first house on my own at 19 years old. I’m now 43. Just want to say yall do great work, and I couldn’t agree more Lazers are awesome.
Almost an hour long and a camera person. Awesome! Keep up the good work.
The new version of This Old House, Awesome.
Most contractors don’t give two cents about the other trades coming in after them. Nice to see you set yourself up for finish work by marking studs on the floor plate.
As a remodeler I am always considering the other trades coming in next ,
mostly because as a remodeler I do all the framing, plumbing, electrical , flooring and any cabinets. With that said I have screwed my self over more than once.
He's the GC....of course he cares....
@@mr.g937 you’d be surprised
@@JoeAroner-SIWAYTV I'm a GC but decided to help a framer build a house...that guy just keeps saying screw the other trades. If you want to make money u have to be fast...I only shake my head knowing how much bs he is causing for an extra 2 seconds of work.
I love these videos. I come from a metal and welding background but all the same principles apply with plumb and square. Awesome job guys.
Another great video. I look forward to these on Sundays. Laundry day, I sit back, watch and sometimes fall asleep...lol. But, I always back up and watch the whole video
Love my paslode, but hate the nail capacity. Great work as always. I love the perfectionist in you, always turning out quality builds.
Love me that laser! Two guys pulling string lines running around with levels and nothing was square or plumb. I do it all alone, quickly and perfect. Great video!!
Hey great video, when you mentioned the angle of your nailer with the three inch and said "in case you're wondering." I said out loud "I was wondering." To which you replied "maybe you're not." Good timing, gave me a chuckle.
Dynamic shots! Credits to the camera operator. We usually use 6” walls when keeping plumbing.
It’s awesome that you think to make life easier for the drywall and trim guys. Nobody thinks of the next guy these days.
💪👍🙏
Damn . Greg rockin the old school carpentry pencil. Sigma status achieved.
Great video as always. I think a video detailing which fasteners you use in the various girts, posts, sheathing, ties, etc, would do well. I know they're scattered among all your videos; I'd watch a consolidated video 20 times. It would be very useful.
Appreciate how you bring in prior comments to explain in the present your reasoning. You are paying attention to your 'client audience'👍 🇨🇦 AGain, so well done💯
Nice to see you building a house rather than a pole barn. Expert carpentry!!
This is a pole barn though.
@@Kluberus True! Expert carpenters can build a fancy pole barn!
Love it! That laser sure makes stuff easy! As an electrician, the only downside I can see to those exterior nailers over the Siga, is 1 1/2” doesn’t allow for common Carlon receptacle and switch boxes. You could use shallow boxes, but then I’d be concerned about box fill. Seems fine for the ceiling if all you are doing for lighting is wafer lighting, but it could be a bit of a pain for the walls. I’d love to see a video after the mechanicals are done but before drywall to see how they did it!
You can still push into the majrex without damage
@@RRBuildings oh awesome, couldn’t tell how much give that stuff has. Good to know!
This actually answers a major question I have with this framing approach
, love the camera guy, so much better . Editing is on point. Greg looking good as always!
Makes me glad I’m a lefty every time I see someone laying out with a measuring tape
I’m not a lefty but make a point to be able to use both hands well enough for situations exactly like that 😂
Who is doing your videos? Do your kids help you and do they want to continue with doing and learning your trade? Do you ever show the scenes where you almost explode or do explode with pressure from your job? You and Greg seem to have such a great relationship and I'm sure that helps to decrease a ton of job pressure. You constantly put out great videos that go step by step and make everyone able to follows. Well done again on another job.
Essential craftsman. Is a guy definitely worth watching he can swing a stiletto hammer and use a skill saw. He is very much a master at his craft. He reminds me of Larry Haun and brother Joe.
Great video. I'm getting pumped to build my post frame shop and post frame 3 bed, 2 bath home. I'm going to build the shop first and then the home using the same materials and methods that your using. Now I've got to get those laser levels to make my life easier. I've always done it the old school way before lasers were invented.
If you use the 30 degree angle of the gun it’s the perfect toe nailing for nailing jacks to king studs. Just lay the gun flat each time you nail, instead of finding the angle each time.
Great video with lots of helpful information, particularly the details about using crowned wood. I also appreciated the longer format. The tee shirt idea seems like a good one that should ring very familiar for framers.
Love seeing the update! Cool to hear Greg's input too! Cheers fellas
Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Great video! The way this video was shot was very nice too. I look forward to your videos every Saturday morning!
I just subscribed and look forward to more of your quality teachings and detail 🇨🇦👍😊
Amazing series and channel! We recently linked your Channel to our student outreach page for Minnesota Construction Association as a resource for eLearning. Amazing resource for the next generation.
Wow that’s amazing. Anything in particular you need help showing? Maybe a future video
I love Rockwoll too, its good stuff man, literally made from molten lava spun like cotton candy.
Great job Kyle ang Greg .Thanks for showing how you use the laser instead of a level.Good teaching thanks
I prefer to build/frame internal stud walls the way you show in this video👍Very neat and tidy😎
I’m designing a post frame cabin now, learning so much from these videos. I was planning to stud inside the posts, but might change to purlins inside.
In this instance, Greg can just hush! The nerd glasses are awesome!
watching your attention to detail is incredible. flawless work from the master joiner kyle and his apprentice minion Greg lol the way you wind Greg up is hilarious. you should wear a t-shirt saying. Dont worry Greg will fix it
Lvl studs for all bath and kitchen walls is my go too. There is no need to deal with crap lumber. Cost more, but it is spot on.
The drywall might not come down the wall like you mentioned. That would put the bottom tape bed too low. He may come from the top, then start at the bottom leaving the seam higher which would make it easier to mud. Less bending 1:03
Dry wall “should “ go top to bottom.
What I’m curious about is weather it’s 9 or 10 foot ceiling?
If it’s 9 foot they will use 54” sheet rock.
@@lethargicmotorsport2025 of course it will go to the bottom. But do you want to work a seam below the waist line or at the waist line. I’d rather at the waistline
@@lethargicmotorsport2025 10'
@@marcusjames3035 I agree with your thinking, working all down will give you a better finish.
For me two beveled factory edges are much easier to finish than a butt seam and a factory edge .
Hey Kyle, get more carhartt hoodies, with your logo on the back, your sold out, would definitely love to buy one!! Thanks man, awesome job as always! Camera guy doing a great job too!
Yes you especially want to be concerned always for the finisher👊😎
Always great work and thinking five steps ahead.. Thanks for great videos!
Kyle, have you ever tried the tapcon pro installation driver kit? It helps, so you don't have to have two drills/drivers. I have three, and they are pretty old but really a time saver. Great stuff today.
I switched over to framing with LVL studs. They are more expensive but the time savings of working with straight lumber more than makes up for it.
Awesome video. I always learn a lot watching RR Buildings videos.
Glad you enjoyed it. appreciate the support as always Ty
On my first day on the job with my dad years ago, he asked me to go grab the plywood stretcher out of the trailer..I will never forget looking for about 20 mins before I returned to him and his partner laughing like crazy.
Then I woke up and realized it was all a dream bc he left to go get milk when I was a baby and haven't seen him since.
Then I realized you are the goat of construction.
Hahaha
While I can do the measure for a door, a simple jig I have for several door sizes can just be slid to the required door width and the extra space on either side is marked and you have a door frame setup. It helps the folks I train to see how the layout process works.
Really love your content ! Keep up the good work 👍🏼
Carpenter from Montreal, Canada 🤙🏼
Regarding Paslode fuel: I used to use pneumatic nailers, and the fuel/battery combo seems nice. My pneumatic guns never needed to fuel and with a good compressor could work uninterrupted all day...but on the other hand, I was dragging hoses and electrical cords all over the place, I don't even want to try and calculate how often I was repairing or replacing those, and I have to have access to electricity to run the compressor.
(Also, they're probably why I have tinnitus now.)
I think in a shop environment I would still go pneumatic, but for jobsite work those Paslode nailers seem really nice.
The gas framing nailer have a lot of downside to them. They're much more expensive to run, gas cartridges make the nails cost twice the price.
You have to maintain them, they need to be stripped and decreased and oiled regularly, cost there as well as time.
You shouldn't use them in wet conditions, unlike a pneumatic.
The gas fumes that comes out of them, you aren't supposed to breath in. You may be breathing in those fumes thousands of times day, if you're busy.
The fan is annoying.
Always running out of nails.
Not the same power as a pneumatic, struggle in harder timbers, especially if you have to laminate them together.
If you want a hoseless solution, better off going with the Milwaukee framer gun, with extended magazine.
Its heavy, but you soon get used to it. But it has the power.
RR are sponsored by Paslode aren't they? So you know, he may be advertising.
Not a big fan of throwing used fuel cells in garbage. I use my pasload with galvanized for treated plates and pneumatic for everything else. Don't have to switch guns and have a cordless if I want. Also because two cords is a nightmare.
Basically you can do anything my friend you do great job
With girts running horizontally I would stand up all the drywall on those outside walls. Easier to hang and finish.
I just did mine for my 2nd story addition I built. I gapped the top plates from the ceiling so the drywall can just go through. No seams so perfect fire barrier. I also gapped at the walls and ran the electrical under the floor. 0 penitration through my vapor barrier. Where my ceiling battens were installed, I put sealing tape between the battens and the ceiling vapor barrier. This is of course only possible if you have no load bearing interior walls.
That extra lumber by the shower is amazing for shower doors!
It’s so enjoyable to watch you work. Your attention on details is impeccable. I am a furniture maker in NE Ohio and would wish to hire you to build my barndo for both shop and living.
Box beam header nice it looked like two days framing that's quick for two people
Favorite moment at 16:30
"Let me know when you need help."
"I don't need help, Greg, I got a laser...It's replaced you."
Agreed!!!! Diablo blades are the best for anything!
2nd to none on accuracy ! God Bless
Beautiful work as always. I wish my builder was half as thorough on my pole building. I don’t think there is one square corner in it.
First used a paslode back in 2012-2014 in high school shop class. We built a garage every year in the community and hand nailed everything but a few things. Great to never need a big compressor. We only brought out a small one for other jobs
I’d love to see the electrician talk through how he does his rough in with this style of framing if he’s up for it
I’m also very interested in this method and how it will go. Hopefully we see the electrical run before the drywall.
I'm a commercial carpenter, we do a lot of wood framing and a little steel but love these videos to help remind yourself if you start right it ends right! One question: you have alot of different brand tools, do you find that helps you in their efficiency as a tool or does it hinder in the fact that there are different chargers and batteries here and there?? Just wondering for my own . I love the tool reviews! Not knockin the tools just curious on efficiency on a job site!
If I can put two thumbs up, I will. Thank you for great video.
i have noticed that in the USA you never seem to put a horizontal row of noggins across the centre of the stud wall, why is this? because in the UK we generally do, unless it is metal stud. this stiffens the stud right up and makes for a more solid wall. we also put noggins in the floor joists to. i know what your saying about using untreated timber, it is allot dryer but architects normally specify sawn treated grade c24 as standard practice and sometimes this stuff seems like its just come out of the sea. we generally put a dpm under stud to on concrete floors, good practice . i am a carpenter to but nice to see how things are done in other countries .
@paul g can you explain what a "noggin" is for us Americans?
From context I’m assuming they are the horizontal blocking between studs. Adds strength and stability to the wall.
Because it’s a post frame structure, none of the stud walls are load bearing, so they don’t need to be crazy strong. Also I think adding blocking would create extra opportunity for air penetration which he’s specifically trying to avoid in this build (similar to how he omitted half the studs in his exterior wall for this reason)
Although now that I’ve said that, I realize the interior walls aren’t insulated so the air penetration idea doesn’t make sense, ignore me haha
Over hear I’ve seen blocking (noggins) in walls over 8’ tall
great camera work in this video
Pro tip for ya. Never build a wet wall with anything less than a 2x6 and the wall with the radiant manifold would be better in a 2x8 wall. Don't crowd the plumbing, and for that matter the electric and hvac too. It's not worth the couple $'s and inches saved.
Hey Kyke! Love watching your videos, im a framer myself and really enjoy the work. I do have a question. When it comes to plumbing, especially bundles of pluming like the first wall you built, why not make it easier and cut the section of plate out around it versus drilling holes?
Oh man I want to drywall this place. I'm a small drywall contractor, I work mostly in custom houses but the framing in this houses is very poor to say the least! This job that you are doing it looks like it could be enjoyable to work in.
Great vid Kyle as always!!!!
Also I'd buy that t shirt 👍
@rrbuildings I know it's a year late but I'm really interested in how you addressed truss uplift. Blocking on top of the partition walls, drywall clips, truss clips or screws through top plates for stability, etc. I was wanting to do a monolithic drywall installation like Jake Bruton did on one of their houses but can't get an answer about how he and Steve did the ceiling to partition wall connection (crown molding I'm guessing) Great build and thank you for documenting and presenting such a complex process in an easy to understand way.
Professional craftsmanship 👏🏻💯
I have been using LVL studs for door framing
I was thinking the same thing. Using engineered lumber in areas where cabinets get hung to ensure a dead flat surface. It can't image the cost difference is that much over the extra labour to manipulate regular studs to make them straight.
It would be cool if you could do a video explaining a bit how you read the blueprints and the planning stages of what you build...just a thought. It'd be cool to see the behind the scenes of what comes before putting walls up.
You ever consider using the High Pressure concrete nailer instead of drilling and Tapcons?
Lasers From Space.... so much better than that little laser.
Question: Since the interior walls are really just partitions, what do you think about hanging and taping the drywall on the exterior walls before framing the interior walls? So the drywall on the exterior walls is an additional continuous envelope around the exterior.
The 2x4 can't hold well with drywall sandwiched between. How long does drywall last anyway?
That is what they do in commercial construction, they will leave the last 2x4 loose so the trades can run any systems in the walk then they board the wall then mount the 2x4. Makes it so much faster.
good idea
@@robedwards2897 I'm not sure I understand what you mean...Do you mean the partition wall is framed but not attached to the exterior wall until after the plumbing and electrical is finished?
After watching this masterclass, I think viewers should get 3 credit hours from the RRB Community College. Kishwaukee, Rock Valley and Waubonsee have nothing over you.
Lol, someone local is watching.
that is such a great comment that made me smile lol
I'm not sure if you will see this, but do try and avoid laser into camera situations. While it does make for a cool shot, a laser will destroy a camera sensor. Even if it just for a fraction of a second, it's all it will take in some situations depending on the sensor and laser. A dead camera sensor is basically like the engine in your truck blowing up. You will end up spending as much replacing the sensor as buying a whole new camera body.
Yes, was wondering about nail and screw lengths. What size structural screws when connecting two 2x4s?
At 29.06 if you at 16th shim under the laser you have the right dimension without thinking every time
Liking the new videoing. I’m a cabinetmaker by trade & have been thinking about buying the cordless Milwaukee miter saw for installing crown molding, trim, & such. Curious how you like it & if it meets your expectations?
Nothing better then a clean hole .
The insulation geek in me would love to see some rockwool comfortboard 80 - 1 1/2” thick insulation in that service cavity right before drywall for an extra r6.
Someone already did that, They put some 1.5” Comfortboard 80 in between the exterior girts & the interior service cavity that would be around R35.
Personally I prefer treated plates because I can glue them and I don't have to use as many 1/2" redheads. Then I either use all galvanized nails or have two guns one with galvanized for treated. I specifically do basements and build them just like you. Just not dealing with post frame. The only thing I didn't like seeing was no backer in the corners of the exterior for the drywall. If they just float every few feet the taper will go to push with his corner tool and it will push the drywall in. It's at high risk for cracking also. One could nail on 3/4" backer to the back of the stud before installing it. The electrican could then cut out what he needs.
Love your videos thank you so much. What kind of boots are you wearing?
Kyle sorry if I missed it on an earlier video but who is the 3rd member of your crew, running the camera? I think I saw Cole running camera a few videos ago, which is awesome. Video format/approach feels a little different, more like we are along with you while you work rather than you slowing down your work flow to explain stuff to us. I like it.
I hired a new guy Michael. He will be full time helping me shoot and edit
high quality job done, amazing. have a question here for interior framing on the concrete. sometimes, Pex-A hydronic pipe will floating a little higher when the concrete poured on mesh. how to avoid to damage pipe potentially when drill the hole for Tapcon screw. maybe the concrete is thick enough, more than 2-1/2 or 3 inch, it is safe to drill hole. just curious. thanks.
“10 is easy”… then goes on to use Imperial… hahaha great videos as always
I think it is safe for you and a great example for everyone watching to wear eye protection. Safety first!
What set of bags are you wearing now? Those dont look like the grande's. Please share that setup looks perfect for what im looking for. I've been looking to get a good set of SXS's. I've been looking into the badger brand, but those you have on look perfect for what im looking for.
I would buy that T-shirt lol never fails outa nails!