Previously I had been using MRP but tried AK Real Color and was very impressed. I find that I am using the latter more and more for British and German WWII.
When installing windows in fuselage did you sand the openings first ? What glue did you use for the clear parts ? I have bought Transpa fix 6k for this. Iwas thinking of using a little liquid mask in the openings to save sanding later....
(I'm guessing you mean 'mask' rather than 'sand'). I painted the two halves separately before the windows were installed, so there was no need for masking. However, liquid mask would well. I didn't have any at the time, but I've used it since and it is good (including on an upcoming Lancaster build).
Good day my friend. First and foremost, thanks for sharing your great work on this big bird. What you are doing is impressive. For my Lanc I will be using the AK Real Colors WW2 RAF Temperate Land Scheme set #38, which has the RAF dark earth RC287, the RAF dark green RC286 and RAF sky RC290 colors. The dark earth and dark green are the right tone for the Lanc and other British birds of the epoch. I live in Puerto Rico and we don't have these AK colors available here, so I ordered them through E Bay. I know your bird will look authentic with these colors, give them a try. I'll continue following your progress with this bird. Keep the great work going. All the best.
Cheers George, much appreciated. I'm always worried that customs will grab stuff like paints if I ship them, but it's worth a try I guess. This video's update was quite a small one really (essentially I just painted the plane black!) but the next update in a couple of weeks "should" see a lot more progress, depending on the paint availability.
Good evening, I noticed that a mistake was made in the positioning of the tail planes. The surfaces with the inspection panels were placed below and not above. If possible, you should turn them over and fix the rudders exactly. Greetings, Fabrizio.
Hi Fabrizio. Unfortunately it is a mistake in the kit - the pieces will only fit one way, but HK have made the panels in the wrong place :( I'm not sure if their 1/48 release of the Lancaster fixes this.
@@ModelNerd Hi Nerd, it's true, they made a mistake (they are Chinese unfortunately 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂) and even the correction of Nigel Modeling is quite cumbersome .. I have solved it in a different way, because I noticed that the insertion of the floors themselves is quite solid. So I cut a couple of pins from one of the half planes and adjusted them. Greetings and good modeling. Fabrizio
You might be able to get some reference help from "AVRO Lancaster Manual (Owner's Workshop Manual)" by Jarrod Cotter or "The Complete Illustrated Encyclopedia of the Lancaster Bomber" by Nigel Cawthorne especially when it comes to how you might display the open panels for your starboard side engine nacelles. Sorry to hear of your on-going frustration with HK's flaws in this expensive kit. Your pain probably will be my gain as I will await investing in the Wingnut Wings edition of this big beast. Keep up the good work. I think I would use the AK Real Color for the camo if you can get it..
Thanks Lawrence - I've used a few reference images but those books sound good. I'm going to be very interested in the WNW kit - the test shots look incredibly detailed. It is only a partial interior I believe, but of course most of it would be hard to see anyway. The price will be very interesting. I'd be very interested in buying a section of the kit (e.g. just the wireless ops table forwards) if they were to release such a thing.
I did it ! I went a brought one ! Now I have to wait 2 weeks for it to get here 😂 I’m so excited 😆 one question where did you end up finding a home 🏡 for such a large model ?
@@ModelNerd I stay in a one bedroom apartment 😂 atm my dining room table is covered in green felt half of it has two warhammer fortresses and high elf and Chaos Armies on it the other half has my chess board and a half painted Perry miniatures Battle in a Box Confederate Army I may have to clean it off and make the runway on the table I’ve found a 1/32 Nissan hut for less than Twenty pounds Stirling from the UK 🇬🇧
A two part epoxy might be best, pve and clearfix aren't strong enough to hold something that big and you have to sand it. I have found extra thin cement will work with out fogging and the areas you will glue are going to be painted but again the bond will be weaker than normal.
Model nerd Can you check the rear stabilizers if bulit by the instructions you end up with 2 uppers one side and 2 lowers on the opposite side Nigels modeling work bench has a video on this issue and how to fix it Thanks Scott
@@ModelNerd Back in 1997 I brought a Tamiya 1/16 King Tiger in the Army. I brought it from the Army Garrison Shop took it back to the Barracks I was staying in a Ten man room left it on my bed and headed off to the pub for a few pints 🍻 well I was gone almost 3 hours and the first thing I noticed was my KT Tank driving around the parade ground ! As soon as I left 10-12 blokes found my model on my bed and started to put it together it took them just over 2 hours to put together when I was looking forward to complete it by myself over 3-4 weeks they ruined the life of the battery because they only had it on charge for 2 hours instead of overnight the only thing I got to do was the Zimmerit and the paint job ha ha 😂
I've just watched your videos on this build, so first off thanks for posting them and sharing the build with us. You have made an impressive job of the kit. Unfortunately between yourself and Nigel you''ve put me off the model. For an expensive kit it seems quite short on detail and accuracy, both in fit, detail and finish quality. I believe after all the detail work Nigel has done (which shouldn't be necessary at this price) he's now offered his kit for sale on one of his update videos. I'm not sure if the clear fuselage panel cuts it for me. I'm not sure how transparent it is and whether it distorts the light making it difficult to see details through. Also the ribbing detail spoils the view. I think it might look better with the opaque sides cut away and the edges of the cuts lined in red as per sectioned stuff seen in museums.
Hi Allan. Yes, I'm not 100% sure either. Especially as I am having difficulty finding something strong to bind the clear and opaque parts without fogging.
Haha! it certainly has greater display range, which is going to be a problem soon because I have no idea where I'm going to put this thing when it's built....
I know you said you don’t want to mix but I just mix up want I want in an extra tamiya jar and I have it for future use. Here’s a good site that I use to mix my tamiya paints and I see they have an RAF dark earth mix. Just a suggestion if you change your mind. www.ipmsdayton.com/sites/default/files/Tamiya_Mixes.txt
Which paint do you prefer for RAF Dark Earth? Tamiya Flat Earth, Vallejo Model Color or Model Air, AK Real Colors, or something else entirely?
Previously I had been using MRP but tried AK Real Color and was very impressed. I find that I am using the latter more and more for British and German WWII.
I've heard good things about hattaka
Thanks Keith. I think I'm going to need to track some down.
I'd never heard of them until now(!) - thanks! I'll investigate their range too.
NGO don’t get the black lid Hataka acrylic. It clogs and is a right pain. They changed the formula on the red lids, much better.
When installing windows in fuselage did you sand the openings first ? What glue did you use for the clear parts ? I have bought Transpa fix 6k for this. Iwas thinking of using a little liquid mask in the openings to save sanding later....
(I'm guessing you mean 'mask' rather than 'sand'). I painted the two halves separately before the windows were installed, so there was no need for masking. However, liquid mask would well. I didn't have any at the time, but I've used it since and it is good (including on an upcoming Lancaster build).
Good day my friend. First and foremost, thanks for sharing your great work on this big bird. What you are doing is impressive. For my Lanc I will be using the AK Real Colors WW2 RAF Temperate Land Scheme set #38, which has the RAF dark earth RC287, the RAF dark green RC286 and RAF sky RC290 colors. The dark earth and dark green are the right tone for the Lanc and other British birds of the epoch. I live in Puerto Rico and we don't have these AK colors available here, so I ordered them through E Bay. I know your bird will look authentic with these colors, give them a try. I'll continue following your progress with this bird. Keep the great work going. All the best.
Cheers George, much appreciated. I'm always worried that customs will grab stuff like paints if I ship them, but it's worth a try I guess. This video's update was quite a small one really (essentially I just painted the plane black!) but the next update in a couple of weeks "should" see a lot more progress, depending on the paint availability.
Good evening, I noticed that a mistake was made in the positioning of the tail planes.
The surfaces with the inspection panels were placed below and not above.
If possible, you should turn them over and fix the rudders exactly.
Greetings, Fabrizio.
Hi Fabrizio. Unfortunately it is a mistake in the kit - the pieces will only fit one way, but HK have made the panels in the wrong place :( I'm not sure if their 1/48 release of the Lancaster fixes this.
@@ModelNerd Hi Nerd, it's true, they made a mistake (they are Chinese unfortunately 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂) and even the correction of Nigel Modeling is quite cumbersome .. I have solved it in a different way, because I noticed that the insertion of the floors themselves is quite solid.
So I cut a couple of pins from one of the half planes and adjusted them.
Greetings and good modeling.
Fabrizio
You might be able to get some reference help from "AVRO Lancaster Manual (Owner's Workshop Manual)" by Jarrod Cotter or "The Complete Illustrated Encyclopedia of the Lancaster Bomber" by Nigel Cawthorne especially when it comes to how you might display the open panels for your starboard side engine nacelles. Sorry to hear of your on-going frustration with HK's flaws in this expensive kit. Your pain probably will be my gain as I will await investing in the Wingnut Wings edition of this big beast. Keep up the good work. I think I would use the AK Real Color for the camo if you can get it..
Thanks Lawrence - I've used a few reference images but those books sound good. I'm going to be very interested in the WNW kit - the test shots look incredibly detailed. It is only a partial interior I believe, but of course most of it would be hard to see anyway. The price will be very interesting.
I'd be very interested in buying a section of the kit (e.g. just the wireless ops table forwards) if they were to release such a thing.
I did it ! I went a brought one ! Now I have to wait 2 weeks for it to get here 😂 I’m so excited 😆 one question where did you end up finding a home 🏡 for such a large model ?
I’m going to get the lights, sounds and engine kit from Belgium 🇧🇪
Nice! Well done - have fun! Mine stays in my spare room, but doesn't really have a permanent home at the moment.
@@ModelNerd I stay in a one bedroom apartment 😂 atm my dining room table is covered in green felt half of it has two warhammer fortresses and high elf and Chaos Armies on it the other half has my chess board and a half painted Perry miniatures Battle in a Box Confederate Army I may have to clean it off and make the runway on the table I’ve found a 1/32 Nissan hut for less than Twenty pounds Stirling from the UK 🇬🇧
A two part epoxy might be best, pve and clearfix aren't strong enough to hold something that big and you have to sand it. I have found extra thin cement will work with out fogging and the areas you will glue are going to be painted but again the bond will be weaker than normal.
That's a good suggestion, thank you. I'll check out what my local DIY store offer the next time I'm down there.
Model nerd
Can you check the rear stabilizers if bulit by the instructions you end up with 2 uppers one side and 2 lowers on the opposite side
Nigels modeling work bench has a video on this issue and how to fix it
Thanks Scott
Hi Scott. Yes, I saw that on Nigel's channel. I decided against fixing it as, at the time, I felt I might do more damage than good.
How long did it take you to finish ? From beginning to end
On and off, I was working on it for over 8 months. But that's mainly because I took a break in the middle.
@@ModelNerd Back in 1997 I brought a Tamiya 1/16 King Tiger in the Army. I brought it from the Army Garrison Shop took it back to the Barracks I was staying in a Ten man room left it on my bed and headed off to the pub for a few pints 🍻 well I was gone almost 3 hours and the first thing I noticed was my KT Tank driving around the parade ground ! As soon as I left 10-12 blokes found my model on my bed and started to put it together it took them just over 2 hours to put together when I was looking forward to complete it by myself over 3-4 weeks they ruined the life of the battery because they only had it on charge for 2 hours instead of overnight the only thing I got to do was the Zimmerit and the paint job ha ha 😂
I've just watched your videos on this build, so first off thanks for posting them and sharing the build with us. You have made an impressive job of the kit. Unfortunately between yourself and Nigel you''ve put me off the model. For an expensive kit it seems quite short on detail and accuracy, both in fit, detail and finish quality. I believe after all the detail work Nigel has done (which shouldn't be necessary at this price) he's now offered his kit for sale on one of his update videos.
I'm not sure if the clear fuselage panel cuts it for me. I'm not sure how transparent it is and whether it distorts the light making it difficult to see details through. Also the ribbing detail spoils the view. I think it might look better with the opaque sides cut away and the edges of the cuts lined in red as per sectioned stuff seen in museums.
Hi Allan. Yes, I'm not 100% sure either. Especially as I am having difficulty finding something strong to bind the clear and opaque parts without fogging.
I know its three years but glue and glaze will be ideal.
Thanks Simon
wowww
Does 1/32 scale have greater operational range than 1/48? 🤔
Haha! it certainly has greater display range, which is going to be a problem soon because I have no idea where I'm going to put this thing when it's built....
I know you said you don’t want to mix but I just mix up want I want in an extra tamiya jar and I have it for future use. Here’s a good site that I use to mix my tamiya paints and I see they have an RAF dark earth mix. Just a suggestion if you change your mind.
www.ipmsdayton.com/sites/default/files/Tamiya_Mixes.txt
Thanks, I will check it out.