Ideally you'd use rosin flux to solder electrical wires/connections, but over the years I've used Nokorode brand copper tubing flux with no long term problems at all. The choice is yours. Once you learn how to make these, they can be made in under 2 minutes if all supplies/tools are on hand. The purpose of this video was to show others how to save a lot of money by making their own copper lug connectors for HEAVY GAUGE wire, nothing more. How you connect the wire to the lug connector is up to you. The best way in my opinion, is to crimp AND solder, followed by heat shrink with glue lined walls. Thanks for watching! See how I make these connectors suitable for MARINE use in my other video below: ruclips.net/video/_ZTk3OYacyE/видео.html Soldered Versus Crimped Electrical Connectors: ruclips.net/video/eedrETFZ3Ws/видео.html
Nokorode and similar fluxes are not recommended for electrical applications because they leave an ionic residue containing zinc chloride which is conductive.
1st step flatten and then drill hole before cutting off. I've done this on battery cables except that I push the wire right through the copper pipe and then flatten the tube and wire on an anvil then drill through the pipe and wire. I've done this and never even soldered. The pipe didn't have to be a tight fit. Good video. People now days usually have no clue how to help themselves. For me it's not just the cost. If I can't make it myself, it is an hour and a half drive to go get one.
Have done this trick for 30 years or more. When it's too far from the hardware store or you want to upgrade to better terminals, this is the way to go. Tin the wire well and flux the inside of the new terminal before applying solder. My commendations to you for using the correct method by heating the end of the terminal and applying the solder at the other end where the wire enters the terminal. Also, I agree that crimping and soldering make the best terminations. Very well done instructional!
I used to do this exact same thing when I worked for Bombardier industries working on monorail trains. They taught us how to make lugs from pipe to save on costs as well. The only thing we did different was we dipped the whole lug and cable end in a large solder pot when we were done. This made the soldering job faster ( i had to make lots of these, no time to spare ) we would put these on 4/0 welding cable that would attach to rail power shoes. These assemblies would see 600 volts at 900 amps three phase with no issues whatsoever. Thanks for this vid. This process does work well!
Dipping is a great way to do it. You also leave a nice tinned corrosion resistant finish. Thank You For Watching! Be sure to share, and check out my other videos as well.
Let me understand. You had a pot of melted tin, over a bunsen burner or similar, and then you dip an item in there to cover it all with a thin layer of tin? If so, fascinating :) Is that something people do in their garages too, because I would really like to try :)
Yes. Very simple to do. Regular solder is usually 50/50. Equal amounts of lead and tin. Lead free solder is mostly tin. Lead free solder does not flow as nicely as regular solder, but is better for you to handle. Make sure the copper or brass piece is cleaned thoroughly, then apply a thin layer of flux, then dip it into the molten solder for a few seconds.
Hi, been using that method for decades even on welding machines, no problems ever... Important to clean and make a good solder. I hate being ripped off by big guys that want us to believe that their stuff is the only thing. I fully support your method...!
Thanks Pierre. I also have never experienced any problems over the years. Some people are just never satisfied. I never force anyone to use any idea I put online. If they feel they know better, and do not want to use the tip, then dont. :-) Thanks For Watching! Please share my channel with others and rate Thumbs Up.
One change I would recommend is to "tin" the wire and inside of the connector before pushing the wire in. This means that when you heat the connector and wire up to do the outside soldering the tinned surfaces inside also bond, creating a better and more complete electrical connection.
tinning the wire is nice..if it will still fit in the tube ! sweat soldering is secure.. if you drill a small hole near the crimped end.. you can introduce the solder there, and not bubble your insulation.
I saw this video the day before I was going to go buy a bunch of pre made ends for a car audio install in my truck. Glad I watched this it will save me a bunch of money that I can spend on better wires now!! Thanks man! Harbor freight has the Marine grade shrink tube with the glue inside of it already, it's thicker and that's all I use even if not going to get wet just because of the seal and thickness. It's cheap to but I really dig this method thanks again!!
I have many excellent videos on my channel that cover a wide range of subjects, so be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and most importantly SHARE my channel with many others. Thank you!
Great Video. Other viewers can argue the pro's and con's of soldering vs crimping - it's a personal choice, and not the point of the video anyway. Your instructions and the video are very useful!
nice video. this is how i do it, insert the whole stripped wire till the end of the tube before flatening and drilling it. no soldering needed. holds a firm grip of the cable, no need to worry bout burning the insulator.
Thanks, +ambutsikik :D I have been making butt-splices and terminals out of soft copper refrigeration tubing for nearly 50 years and had never thought of doing it that way. Seems like best time-saving idea I have heard in weeks!!! Trying this one tomorrow. But instead of drilling the hole for the stud, I will punch the copper with a Whiney punch. Normally, especially for wire sizes that do not precisely correspond to the tubing ID, I pound a swage tool into copper tube to reform the cut end and create a bit more space for the wire to slip into.
I've done this before and it's always a great way to save money. A little tip on prepping the copper, for the inside use a gun cleaning wire tip chucked up in a cordless drill. On the outside if you plan on do a lot of these pick up a wire wheel brush for your bench grinder or cordless drill. Cleans and preps the copper really well for soldering.
Many years ago I was a member of a club that converted gasoling engine cars to electric. We made our onw cables to keep expense as low as posible. Our first method was to solder the wire to the connectors as you are showing. They looked great, but after a time someone got a crimper and we tried it. We did some electrical comparisons and found the crimped connections had measurably lower resistance than the soldered ones. We attributed this to the slightly higher resistance of the lead solder.
@electronicsNmore, you have to do a loaded test for any difference to be noticeable (since the resistance will likely lower than between the probe of your multimeter and the piece). The best way is to get a constant current source, and pump a given amount of current through the connection, while monitoring the voltage dropped across it. Then R=V/I Simple!
You can also make connector bars this way to connect batteries in a bank instead of using cables. If you are using them in a battery bank I recommend tinning them to prevent corrosion. Great video and excellent presentation.
I have also slipped one size copper tube inside a slightly larger size to increase the copper mass to carry more current. Soft copper fits nicely inside hard copper pipe. I saved a ton of money doing this over using 2/0 cable with two lugs. Again thank you for the videos. I subbed. Peace to you.
Look towards the light! Follow the words of wisdom from all the electronic & electrical guru's ... Who can make solder run up hill,downhill and sideways ... It goes where the heat goes. And this is a great post to save some green....
So what you're actually telling me is that, that solder actually ran "up hill", because the heat was on the end of the terminal, and didn't run all the way down the inside of the insulation like a normal liquid would?
Hey ElectronicNews: Thank you for the great instructional video.There are many reasons why I prefer to make things myself, beyond money and/or time savings. I simply enjoy being a DIYer. And its easier to keep a few size copper lengths around than an assortments of gauge size lugs with varied hole sizes on hand. I live near a home depot but some people may live 30 or more away miles from one. I could go on... Keep making useful videos like this. Some viewers may criticize, but to many more like me, you are helping us get things done. I appreciate it!!!
You're welcome! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists below. I have a very wide range of videos. Please share my channel with others. Thanks ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Thank You! I was in Harbor Freight the other day, and they are selling (2) 6ga copper ring/lug connectors like these for $2.99! Auto parts stores much higher. Be sure to check out my video playlists as well.
electronicsNmore after watching more videos, you really should look into amateur radio!! You would love the hobby! My call is KD8VUI, check out arrl.org
The best way i found is to use resin core solder. Put your fitting upright in the vise and fill it with the solder then put in your cable and add some more heat,then you know all your wires are completely covered sealed in solder.
Great Idea.......I drilled all the holes first, at regular intervals, cut them off with a chop saw, (slowly) then put them in my reloading press to flatten them, dropped the whole stack in my brass cleaner, then deburred them with my case trimmer. I'm gonna buy different size copper tubing, and make me a lifetime supply of them. You saved me hundreds of dollars, because I'm always working on stuff like that.
1) Flatten the tube, then before cutting it drill 2 holes, 1 in the flattened section to suit the bolt / terminal diameter, the second hole approx. 3mm dia, in the section where the cable fits just above the flattened section and only through one side. 2) Dress the holes and shape the end as you wish before you cut the pipe, it's easier to handle, cut the pipe to size and de-burr the cable hole. 3) Clean the surfaces where solder will be used. 4) Flux the cable and terminal where the soldered joint will be with ROSIN flux, don't be tempted to use a flux for general soldering, plumbing etc, they are corrosive. Rosin flux is cheap, goes a long way if used sensibly and after soldering is non corrosive. Why go to the time and trouble making a good electrical joint only for corrosion to set in later. 5) Insert the cable in the terminal. 6) Now for the reason for the 3mm hole, grip the cable where it exits the terminal in a vice or with vice grips, with the flattened end vertical, apply heat to the flattened end and the solder to the 3mm hole, once sufficient heat has traveled down the terminal, dependent on the blowlamp, the solder will start to flow into the cable and terminal hole by capillary attraction, as soon as you see solder at the lower end stop the heat. 7) The reason for applying the solder this way is two fold, (a) the solder will flow for the full length of the joint (b) holding the cable in a vice or vice grips acts as a heat-sink preventing solder wicking down the cable, which can give a rigid section adjacent to the terminal, which in some cases with restricted access can make routing the cable difficult.
Soft drawn copper can be used as a straight splicer too. It will crimp in most professional grade crimpers. Just pick something that fits over the wire, the closer fit the better. If you want an insulated connector, just slip on some heat shrink tube. I haven't bought a Sta-Kon in years.
Thanks for watching Juan! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and most importantly share my channel with others.
I use a small diameter battery terminal type/round wire brush to clean out the socket rather than sand paper. I flux both the wire and inside of the socket then crimp before I solder. Using heat shrink tubing to finish is a nice touch I haven't thought of.
Good video and a great idea! One issue though... you should never grind soft metals on a bench grinder. (aluminum, copper,brass,bronze) the soft metal will eventually load up the grinding wheel an can create a safety issue as the wheel can crack by overheating and basically explode. belt and disk sanders are a better way to clean up the edges of soft metals if you don't want to use a file.
This is one of those things that is so obvious if you try to think about it, but you never did. Simple and genius! Pure copper connector then too. Also a great piece of info to have for prepping or living off the grid. One more reason to have copper tubing around. Awesome video! Found you through a comment on Project Farm. I subbed.
Thanks for watching! Todd is a really nice guy with great videos. Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for other great videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share.
Nice job and good thing you slid the heat shrink rap over the wire before the fitting was installed cause I don't think it would had fit over the fitting wooh ! Lol..
Nice video, well done. I have owned commercial fishing vessels now for over 30 years. I have used this method in the field many times with one exception. I always carry the heavy duty epoxy coated heat shrink tubing, it's more expensive but the inside coating of epoxy melts during the heat-shrink process and forms a complete water tight seal at both ends. On my previous 39 ft vessel when I sold it after over 13 years had zero electrolysis or corrosion in any of the many electrical connections
Martin Kannegieter Using a vice to squash the connector is no good. The result will not lay flat. Usually I drill the hole before cutting the tube, but when you are making a video, sometimes you end up doing things differently. Thanks For Watching!
Very good video. I am an electronics technician and I find this valuable. Imagine needing to make a connection like this in an off grid situation in a remote location. This could save the day! Thanks!
It's really funny to me how much a person will argue with someone else trying to prove that their way is the right way and the only way. I seriously doubt that in most cases there will be enough pressure or heat applied to this connector to cause it to break apart or un-solder itself. But I know that there are those times when all the stars and planets line up and it'll happen. But if your starter goes bad causing it to pull high amps then I'm pretty sure you'll either be at a auto supply store where you can pick up a new connector, have your car in the shop for the repair where they'll fix the connector, or you can just resolder/crimp the old one back on. The fact is that there's more than one way to do everything and each way has its good and bad points. To the guys that were saying that their time is worth too much to take the time to do this I agree, sort of. I'm nit saying that my time is worth too much to be wasting it on making one of these, I'm only saying that I'm lazy and would rather just buy one. Also, it's funny but cause your time is worth too much to make a connector but not too valuable to waste your time arguing online with someone that you don't know over something as trivial as this. If I was going to do this I'd solder it. I've been installing car alarms for 20+ years and I solder every connection. But I live close to the ocean where the salt air eats away at the connections and causes many problems with just a simple crimp. So the good outweighs the bad in this situation. Do what you think is best for your application. Stop feeling the need to prove how smart you all are because it's making you look stupid.
Mike Mace I live within 100' of the ocean, and I also agree, soldering prevents any salt air from finding its way into a crimped connector which can cause it to corrode and result in a high resistance connection. In the video I stated that crimping and soldering is the way to go if you are looking for the most secure way and lowest resistance connection. Thanks For watching, and yes, some people love to complain, even when they don't pay for something.
You know what....thanks....lol really thanks....a while back I bought a dang cable to fix a terminal peace. And right when I jus saw the part about copper tubing I then realized I have plenty of copper tubing (refrigeration tubing) laying around my house....smdh....I really appreciate ur vids especially the a/c vids and troubleshooting
Plumbing copper is almost as pure as electrical grade copper. Thanks for watching! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others.
Thank You!! I use these all of the time, and pay out the rear for them even the smaller crimp connectors. I had never thought of this, and now I don't have to pay the hardware store super-inflated price ever again!!
Amazing how many people complain about some free advice for the AVERAGE person with AVERAGE tools. Are there better ways to do this job? Sure. Will this job do the trick quickly, for next to nothing, with common tools that most people already own, AND last the life of the car. Absolutely Nice touch with the heat-shrink tubing. Not absolutely necessary, but if you have some on hand, all the better.It makes it look nice and should keep moisture etc out of the joint
You're right. There are many "experts" on RUclips, but many have no videos uploaded to their channel and have very few if any subscribers. Some people like to complain and show they know more than you(even if they don't). I tend to ignore them, rather than argue.The idea shown in this video is a very good idea which I have used for many years. I only upload "good" content to my channel. Thanks For Watching!
I have seen many cables over the years that were only crimped and developed a high resistance connection between the wire and connector causing them to heat up and burn. If you are connected to a fused circuit, the wire will never be able to heat up if the wire size is correct. If you are using the connector off a battery, then it would be a very good idea to crimp AND solder the connection in the event the wire short circuits(which is very rare), the solder would melt if the wire was not fused. Crimping the wire and soldering it, would keep the wire from coming out of the connector and eliminate any chance of a high resistance connection withing the connector.. Thanks For Watching.
The rule I live by is crimp larger gauge wire and solder the smaller gauge. If the wire is crimped correctly you will have no problems. In the real world you won't see too many larger gauge connections with solder on them.
Macabre Artist I agree but if you or out on road/trail a knife and vice grips would work also it is a quick fix to get you home or to the nearest parts store. The copper tubbing is much cheaper the buying them,I agree.Thanks for sharing.
Nothing wrong with crimp-only connections as long as they are done properly using the correct good quality properly calibrated tool and good quality crimp connectors/lugs. In fact, the wiring on modern aircraft uses crimp connections almost exclusively. Such connections have proven more reliable than solder connections. For the DIYer/hobbyist, crimp and then soldering does make sense since you don't have access to such expensive tools, but please don't generalize that crimps are only for lazy slobs. That couldn't be farther from the truth. A proper crimp, on smaller gauge wire, the wire will often break before the crimp fails. Larger wire you can hang your entire weight on the end of the wire and it won't budge.
Glad you enjoyed the video! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others. Thank You
Maybe drill your hole in the flat and smooth the corners on a grinder before cutting off the tube, easier to hold a larger piece and less chance of deforming it with pliers!
I hope that's a joke. someone stole all the copper pipe and wire out of my house. at a bad time just before I can move in. the house I lived in burned to the ground a few months ago. so I have basically nothing. didn't have insurance. so now all my wire and pipe so now I gotta find a way to fix all that and replace everything else. all for just a few bucks. that could have been worked for in two hours. and take months of my pay to replace! why would somebody do that to anybody? what kind of world? I wouldn't even have thought to do something so low! and if you are gonna steal they gotta be something that pays better. some ppl!
you have to expect the worst to happen and rejoice when it doesn't. I might suggest that you consider using pex if it is allowed in your are. it is quick and considerably cheaper than copper but not as resistant to puncture so you need to consider that.
Very good and informative. I always make these lugs myself, though I never worked with copper pipe, I have worked with copper plate. I do the soldering with a 100 Watt soldering iron with a massive copper tip and resin-core solder for electronics (1 mm diameter). The 100 Watt soldering iron method also works very well, also with this type of thick cable, works good to approx 7-8 mm cable. Heat the lug with the iron during approx. 30 sec-1 min, and the solder is sucked in when it melts. It is very good that you show the importance of thorough cleaning.Liked!
I'd rather take less than 2 minutes to make of these for a few cents, than pay $2.00 and up for one. That is what a smart person does. :-) If you like to throw money away, or money comes very easy to you, then go buy them.
***** I can easily make one of these in under 2 minutes. I don't have to prove anything to you or anyone else. If you have a problem with my video, then find another channel to watch. I don't have time for rude/idiotic comments from viewers. The finished product is NOT inferior, but some people sure are.
wow dude, post a video of you making them in less then two minuets. Also show the tin plating too. oh and the certification testing too, but I'd be happy with a pull out test and a cross sectional cut thru image.
Cool! It never occurred to me to use copper tubing to make an eyelet terminal. Great idea! Also, I'd like to suggest drilling a small hole in the terminal near where the end of the cable actually go into the terminal. This way you can apply your solder through the hole, and when you see it coming out near the insulation of the cable you know it's completely filled with solder. It also has the advantage of helping to not melt the insulation during soldering.
Robert Gantry That idea is good, but not really necessary. Capillary action will draw the solder into the connector. You can tell when it fills up. Thanks For Watching!
Unless you are British, the "L" is silent. The same reason why you do not pronounce "salmon" as SAL-MON. You say, "SAMMON". Silent "L". :-) Many examples out there.
I have been doing this for years. I drill the hole before cutting the connector off. The long pipe gives me something to hold on to. Never used the heat shrink. That was a nice job with the heat shrink. Thanks
Usually I do drill first, but with all the interruptions(people, barking dogs, road traffic, planes) I deal with when making videos, I lost my train of thought. Thanks for watching!
I never had any problems at all. I've been making these for 20+ years. I prefer to solder and crimp if you don't have a high compression tool. If you do, just crimp and apply heat shrink. Thanks for watching
I agree - especially in automotive or marine applications where vibration is a factor. The solder transition makes a hard spot where the wire will “work” and weaken. (For marine I’d recommend against this DIY method because fully tinned fittings are critical to avoiding corrosion in connections)
I just wanted to say thanks for sharing this video I read comments where so many did not know of this trick for all the naysayers some of these comments are are merely sharing their methods of doing this I think that's what RUclips is all about in my book sharing knowledge . hope you didn't take my suggestion wrong I don't believe you did you sent a like to me about it after all everybody does things different maybe some watching can read all the different ways n decide for themselves what's best thank you
Brilliant idea. I am not a fan of crimping these though. What I like to do is tin the wire, then flux the inside of the connector. With the connector in a vise or being held up with Vice Grips or the likes, heat the connector and melt solder inside the end and fill it about 1/3 of the way, then push the already tinned wire in the hole with the melted solder. Finish it off with some shrink tube and you have a very permanent connection.
Thank You! I do that also. I sometimes vary my method. One thing I never do is only crimp, unless the connector I am using is silicone filled to prevent air/moisture from entering. If I had a very thick copper lug, and a hydraulic crimper just like the power companies use on high tension power lines, then I would only crimp/heat shrink. Be sure to share, and rate a Thumbs Up. :-)
Very good idea. If doing loads of these , would suggest getting some electrical solder, it has flux incorporated. Used 2 use loads of these at old job building fire trucks. Put in a vise and do upside down and seemed 2 make look just a little nicer.
Great idea to save a few $ especially if you need a lot. Drilling and filing before cutting to length makes it easier to hold and stop any posibility of deforming the cable end with the pliers, You can also use pre glued heatshrink to seal.
Years ago I was in the woods working on a log loader on a Sunday I found I needed a battery cable I made it out of a piece of jumper cables and made a copper end like you did except . I stripped the cable long enough to reach all the way through the copper tubing then I flattened the end with the cable inside. Then I drilled through the copper and the cable. My plan was to replace the cable the next time I had the loader in the shop but it worked so good I never did. I have used the technique many times since then. I like the cable extending through the connection then flattening it traps the Cable in the eye and when the eye is tightened on the post it's adds to the strength and connection
Thanks for watching Tim! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others.
You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed it. I have many great videos on my channel that cover a wide range of subjects unlike 98% of channels on RUclips, so be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, and most importantly share my channel with many others. Thanks
Those are expensive! I'd use type "K" thick walled soft copper of the correct size. I also have another video showing how I tin the connectors once I make them. Thanks for watching
This is a good video and explanation on how to repair a bad low voltage cable connection DIY. ( 12 v or less ). Bottom line is DIY and save $ or go for a more expensive solution. There is always another way. Its up to the person with the problem. No need to criticize someone for trying to show his solution .
That drill bit is great-I'll look out for one.Only possible suggestion I could make is to tin the wire to stop any wayward strand catching on the connector and give visual indication of when to add solder-probably an unnecessary complication though.
Awesome idea! I spent an hour time and a bunch of gas trying to find copper connectors for #4 ga. battery cables for my boat. Paid about $5 each and a ton of hassle finding them. Thanks for sharing your nifty idea.
Wow. $5 each. What criminals. You can easily tin the outside of the connector for added corrosion resistance for marine use. Once the connector is made, you thoroughly clean the outside of the lug, coat it in a light layer of flux, then dip it in some molten solder. Thanks For watching! Be sure to share, and rate a thumbs up.
You're welcome! Glad you liked the video. Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and share links to my videos with many others on social networking sites. Thanks! ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Great Video ! I love the engineering back and forth, its usually as valuable as the video content. I just wish people wouldn't so dickish in their worldviews. There are a lot of smart people here, and the "How To" Videos make up a superhuman, parallel processing network of smartiness - enjoy !
I have used a pain of side cutters to "round the ends". Annealing the copper by Heating until it glows then let it cool slowly in air. Will make it easier (softer) to work with if needed. Thank you
+Sol Shady Copper is different than ferrous metal. So to anneal copper you quench it while it is hot. Which is the opposite of how ferrous metal works.
Out in the professional Telecom field we used a number of different calibrated crimpers. Just crimping a connector is asking for trouble. Soldering is good but impractically slow out in the field. So the proper procedure for crimping is to use no-ox first and then crimp with calibrated crimper. The no-ox keeps the air out so the connection doesn't deteriorate and the calibrated crimpers practically weld the joint together. Personally I like a good solder joint as I cant afford the fancy crimpers.
Thanks for watching Steve! You're correct, most people that complain, or pick on every little detail in the video, are usually people with no videos themselves, and very few if any subscribers. The fact of the matter is, this idea is great, and I have proven it over and over. You don't have to do things "exactly" as I showed in the video, you can modify certain steps if you desired, but the idea shown is great.
Hi its a very good idea and I am installing my amp and cap this weekend. I will try this...what I will do diff: 1/ I will drill the hole before I cut the copper pipe and 2/ I will try to put some solder in side the pipe so when I heat up the pipe the wire can easy solder. again great trick
lynda wilson Yes, contrary to what a very small percentage of my viewers or should I say, "RUclips Experts" have to say, the idea works flawlessly when done correctly. :-)Thank you for watching! Please share and rate thumbs up
Good video. There's actually a school of thought that says a good quality crimp plus marine/adhesive lined heat shrink is not only just fine, but preferably in situations where there's vibration (such as a motorcycle grounding lug and starter power lugs) apparently because solder is brittle and can crack in those applications, hurting more than it helps. Plus it's just way easier to skip that step. The compression crimper from Harbor Freight is a fantastic tool, but you can even use a flat blade screwdriver plus hammer to make the crimp. I don't claim to be an expert but I trust the intelligent people I picked this info up from. The wiring on all my bikes has been rocksteady for years with these methods. Thanks for sharing!
+electronicsNmore OOC why do you feel the solder is necessary when a high quality compression crimper is used? I've put mine to the test, hanging 50 lb dumbbells from the lug hole and they will no come loose. Plus the solder is less conductive than the stranded wire and increases resistance. Not trying to argue, I just think you should quantify the statement; "solder is best!" instead of just, "Thanks for watching!" ;)
elamovs In the past I've seen cables that were only crimped develop a high resistance connection. Flowing the surfaces of the wire and connector together, is far better than close contact. Most people do not have a high quality high compression crimper. :-)
A good alternative. I guess it comes down to which is more important to you ... pennies saved or the time to make them. Plus not all of us have the proper skills & tools to do it correctly.
Well that's a big thumbs up...! I will have to try this next time I need a lug. I usually go to electrician's supply stores to get mine. They're pretty cheap that way. Not as cheap as making your own like this ov course, but far more realistically priced than buying them from an auto parts store or something! The only issue is they are rated in millimetres for the electrical industry in New Zealand, but most cabling I tend to use is in AWG so a bit ov conversion needed.
Inventive & ingenious, I'd never thought of doing this. I was waiting for the part where you crimped the fitting but either missed it or you didn't do it? I've always done both, particularly with the bigger gauged - heavier load stuff. BTW: At fist I thought your video was "Make Copper 12V Battery Lugs with Pennies"! Duh....
Ideally you'd use rosin flux to solder electrical wires/connections, but over the years I've used Nokorode brand copper tubing flux with no long term problems at all. The choice is yours. Once you learn how to make these, they can be made in under 2 minutes if all supplies/tools are on hand. The purpose of this video was to show others how to save a lot of money by making their own copper lug connectors for HEAVY GAUGE wire, nothing more. How you connect the wire to the lug connector is up to you. The best way in my opinion, is to crimp AND solder, followed by heat shrink with glue lined walls. Thanks for watching!
See how I make these connectors suitable for MARINE use in my other video below:
ruclips.net/video/_ZTk3OYacyE/видео.html
Soldered Versus Crimped Electrical Connectors:
ruclips.net/video/eedrETFZ3Ws/видео.html
I'm looking at my old can of it now. Black and white can by The M.W. Dunton Co. Had it for years and almost out.
Easier way to solder is heat connectors n fill with solder then stick wire in. Solder either way works a matter of preference I gues
Can turpentine be used for soldering wires?
Nokorode and similar fluxes are not recommended for electrical applications because they leave an ionic residue containing zinc chloride which is conductive.
High current applications should never be soldered as it is a sad conductor. Crimp correctly or let somebody that knows what they're doing handle it.
1st step flatten and then drill hole before cutting off. I've done this on battery cables except that I push the wire right through the copper pipe and then flatten the tube and wire on an anvil then drill through the pipe and wire. I've done this and never even soldered. The pipe didn't have to be a tight fit. Good video. People now days usually have no clue how to help themselves. For me it's not just the cost. If I can't make it myself, it is an hour and a half drive to go get one.
Have done this trick for 30 years or more. When it's too far from the hardware store or you want to upgrade to better terminals, this is the way to go. Tin the wire well and flux the inside of the new terminal before applying solder. My commendations to you for using the correct method by heating the end of the terminal and applying the solder at the other end where the wire enters the terminal. Also, I agree that crimping and soldering make the best terminations. Very well done instructional!
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I used to do this exact same thing when I worked for Bombardier industries working on monorail trains. They taught us how to make lugs from pipe to save on costs as well. The only thing we did different was we dipped the whole lug and cable end in a large solder pot when we were done. This made the soldering job faster ( i had to make lots of these, no time to spare ) we would put these on 4/0 welding cable that would attach to rail power shoes. These assemblies would see 600 volts at 900 amps three phase with no issues whatsoever. Thanks for this vid. This process does work well!
Dipping is a great way to do it. You also leave a nice tinned corrosion resistant finish.
Thank You For Watching!
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Let me understand. You had a pot of melted tin, over a bunsen burner or similar, and then you dip an item in there to cover it all with a thin layer of tin? If so, fascinating :) Is that something people do in their garages too, because I would really like to try :)
Yes. Very simple to do. Regular solder is usually 50/50. Equal amounts of lead and tin. Lead free solder is mostly tin. Lead free solder does not flow as nicely as regular solder, but is better for you to handle. Make sure the copper or brass piece is cleaned thoroughly, then apply a thin layer of flux, then dip it into the molten solder for a few seconds.
Did you pre-heat the end with a torch before you dipped it?
@@electronicsNmoreYou prevent the green crusties.
Hi, been using that method for decades even on welding machines, no problems ever... Important to clean and make a good solder. I hate being ripped off by big guys that want us to believe that their stuff is the only thing.
I fully support your method...!
Thanks Pierre. I also have never experienced any problems over the years. Some people are just never satisfied. I never force anyone to use any idea I put online. If they feel they know better, and do not want to use the tip, then dont. :-)
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I been doing same too
perfect DIY, Thank you for sharing, much appreciated. Cheers
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will do now
You just saved me a bunch of money and gave me another level of DIY satisfaction in my own inverter project. Thanks!
One change I would recommend is to "tin" the wire and inside of the connector before pushing the wire in. This means that when you heat the connector and wire up to do the outside soldering the tinned surfaces inside also bond, creating a better and more complete electrical connection.
+John Posson my thoughts exactly
if the tinned wire will fit in the tube
John Posson
I use a silver solder. Not led.
Tinning before crimping is not recommended by most manufacturers of crimp lugs. It can create dangerous connections that are likely to come loose.
tinning the wire is nice..if it will still fit in the tube ! sweat soldering is secure.. if you drill a small hole near the crimped end.. you can introduce the solder there, and not bubble your insulation.
I saw this video the day before I was going to go buy a bunch of pre made ends for a car audio install in my truck. Glad I watched this it will save me a bunch of money that I can spend on better wires now!! Thanks man! Harbor freight has the Marine grade shrink tube with the glue inside of it already, it's thicker and that's all I use even if not going to get wet just because of the seal and thickness. It's cheap to but I really dig this method thanks again!!
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Awesome idea! Thanks.
It saves me a lot of cutting copper sheet, and the tube looks better when finished.
Your welcome. Thanks for watching
Great Video. Other viewers can argue the pro's and con's of soldering vs crimping - it's a personal choice, and not the point of the video anyway. Your instructions and the video are very useful!
Exactly. The point of the video was to show how to make the connector, everything else was a bonus. Thanks for watching!
nice video. this is how i do it, insert the whole stripped wire till the end of the tube before flatening and drilling it. no soldering needed. holds a firm grip of the cable, no need to worry bout burning the insulator.
Thanks, +ambutsikik :D I have been making butt-splices and terminals out of soft copper refrigeration tubing for nearly 50 years and had never thought of doing it that way. Seems like best time-saving idea I have heard in weeks!!! Trying this one tomorrow. But instead of drilling the hole for the stud, I will punch the copper with a Whiney punch. Normally, especially for wire sizes that do not precisely correspond to the tubing ID, I pound a swage tool into copper tube to reform the cut end and create a bit more space for the wire to slip into.
I've done this before and it's always a great way to save money. A little tip on prepping the copper, for the inside use a gun cleaning wire tip chucked up in a cordless drill. On the outside if you plan on do a lot of these pick up a wire wheel brush for your bench grinder or cordless drill. Cleans and preps the copper really well for soldering.
Mikey8567 I have done both. :-).
Thanks For Watching Mike.
Many years ago I was a member of a club that converted gasoling engine cars to electric. We made our onw cables to keep expense as low as posible. Our first method was to solder the wire to the connectors as you are showing. They looked great, but after a time someone got a crimper and we tried it. We did some electrical comparisons and found the crimped connections had measurably lower resistance than the soldered ones. We attributed this to the slightly higher resistance of the lead solder.
Crimp, then add solder for anti corrosion.
very good suggestion
I just did the same test using 8 gauge wire, and there was no measurable difference.
If you are testing with 100's of amps it will be measurable.
@electronicsNmore, you have to do a loaded test for any difference to be noticeable (since the resistance will likely lower than between the probe of your multimeter and the piece). The best way is to get a constant current source, and pump a given amount of current through the connection, while monitoring the voltage dropped across it. Then R=V/I
Simple!
You can also make connector bars this way to connect batteries in a bank instead of using cables. If you are using them in a battery bank I recommend tinning them to prevent corrosion. Great video and excellent presentation.
Yes. I have done that in the past. Completely flatten both sides and drill your holes.
Thanks!
I have also slipped one size copper tube inside a slightly larger size to increase the copper mass to carry more current. Soft copper fits nicely inside hard copper pipe. I saved a ton of money doing this over using 2/0 cable with two lugs. Again thank you for the videos. I subbed. Peace to you.
Thank You again. Glad you liked the video!
Look towards the light! Follow the words of wisdom from all the electronic & electrical guru's ... Who can make solder run up hill,downhill and sideways ... It goes where the heat goes. And this is a great post to save some green....
So what you're actually telling me is that, that solder actually ran "up hill", because the heat was on the end of the terminal, and didn't run all the way down the inside of the insulation like a normal liquid would?
Hey ElectronicNews: Thank you for the great instructional video.There are many reasons why I prefer to make things myself, beyond money and/or time savings. I simply enjoy being a DIYer. And its easier to keep a few size copper lengths around than an assortments of gauge size lugs with varied hole sizes on hand. I live near a home depot but some people may live 30 or more away miles from one. I could go on... Keep making useful videos like this. Some viewers may criticize, but to many more like me, you are helping us get things done. I appreciate it!!!
You legend!! I have just found some pipe spare yesterday. Thank you. Xx
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This is a fantastic idea! As an amateur radio operator I use these type terminals often. Subscribed!
Thank You!
I was in Harbor Freight the other day, and they are selling (2) 6ga copper ring/lug connectors like these for $2.99! Auto parts stores much higher.
Be sure to check out my video playlists as well.
electronicsNmore after watching more videos, you really should look into amateur radio!! You would love the hobby! My call is KD8VUI, check out arrl.org
The best way i found is to use resin core solder.
Put your fitting upright in the vise and fill it with the solder then put in your cable and add some more heat,then you know all your wires are completely covered sealed in solder.
I also do it that way. :-).
Thanks mate,yeah it never fails.
Thanks for your reply.
Great Idea.......I drilled all the holes first, at regular intervals, cut them off with a chop saw, (slowly) then put them in my reloading press to flatten them, dropped the whole stack in my brass cleaner, then deburred them with my case trimmer. I'm gonna buy different size copper tubing, and make me a lifetime supply of them. You saved me hundreds of dollars, because I'm always working on stuff like that.
1) Flatten the tube, then before cutting it drill 2 holes, 1 in the flattened section to suit the bolt / terminal diameter, the second hole approx. 3mm dia, in the section where the cable fits just above the flattened section and only through one side.
2) Dress the holes and shape the end as you wish before you cut the pipe, it's easier to handle, cut the pipe to size and de-burr the cable hole.
3) Clean the surfaces where solder will be used.
4) Flux the cable and terminal where the soldered joint will be with ROSIN flux, don't be tempted to use a flux for general soldering, plumbing etc, they are corrosive. Rosin flux is cheap, goes a long way if used sensibly and after soldering is non corrosive. Why go to the time and trouble making a good electrical joint only for corrosion to set in later.
5) Insert the cable in the terminal.
6) Now for the reason for the 3mm hole, grip the cable where it exits the terminal in a vice or with vice grips, with the flattened end vertical, apply heat to the flattened end and the solder to the 3mm hole, once sufficient heat has traveled down the terminal, dependent on the blowlamp, the solder will start to flow into the cable and terminal hole by capillary attraction, as soon as you see solder at the lower end stop the heat.
7) The reason for applying the solder this way is two fold, (a) the solder will flow for the full length of the joint (b) holding the cable in a vice or vice grips acts as a heat-sink preventing solder wicking down the cable, which can give a rigid section adjacent to the terminal, which in some cases with restricted access can make routing the cable difficult.
He used a non-corrosive flux. He explained this in the video.
Wow, finally! Someone on RUclips who knows his shit. I had almost exact same thought. As well as soldering the flattened end.
I did hammer like 3 inches back long enough to do 2 at once, drill two holes, then cut by half....
Soft drawn copper can be used as a straight splicer too. It will crimp in most professional grade crimpers. Just pick something that fits over the wire, the closer fit the better. If you want an insulated connector, just slip on some heat shrink tube. I haven't bought a Sta-Kon in years.
Awesome! Wish I had thought of this years ago. Good job and good presentation.
Thanks Otis!
Thanks for the excellent video. It's good to know that there are ways of avoiding paying the crazy prices at todays parts stores!
Your welcome!
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Thank You
Great tip, simple to do. Thanks!!!
This is especially a GREAT IDEA for those smaller connections like on lawn mower equipment that usually has those thin wall flimsy connector rings.
Thumbs up for the dramatic pause after telling us the retail price of copper terminals.
Well this is a very good and basic way of how to make a a wire terminal lug. it gives you an idea using copper tube. Thanks a lot for the upload.
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I been doing that for years, good way to save money
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I use a small diameter battery terminal type/round wire brush to clean out the socket rather than sand paper. I flux both the wire and inside of the socket then crimp before I solder. Using heat shrink tubing to finish is a nice touch I haven't thought of.
I use that also, but I was living on an island when the video was filmed, and my brush was shot. Thanks for watching!
Good video and a great idea!
One issue though... you should never grind soft metals on a bench grinder. (aluminum, copper,brass,bronze) the soft metal will eventually load up the grinding wheel an can create a safety issue as the wheel can crack by overheating and basically explode.
belt and disk sanders are a better way to clean up the edges of soft metals if you don't want to use a file.
You're right, but they do make grinding wheels for angle grinders that are made specifically for aluminum, and they work great!
doh, dress the wheel when needed
This is the original method of fabricating battery lugs, good video!!!!
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thank you my friend really u make this things look so easy thanks for the idea
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Thanks
This is one of those things that is so obvious if you try to think about it, but you never did. Simple and genius! Pure copper connector then too.
Also a great piece of info to have for prepping or living off the grid. One more reason to have copper tubing around. Awesome video!
Found you through a comment on Project Farm. I subbed.
Thanks for watching! Todd is a really nice guy with great videos. Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for other great videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share.
Nice job and good thing you slid the heat shrink rap over the wire before the fitting was installed cause I don't think it would had fit over the fitting wooh ! Lol..
Lol it took me a while to get your joke but then it was halarious.
Nice video, well done. I have owned commercial fishing vessels now for over 30 years. I have used this method in the field many times with one exception. I always carry the heavy duty epoxy coated heat shrink tubing, it's more expensive but the inside coating of epoxy melts during the heat-shrink process and forms a complete water tight seal at both ends. On my previous 39 ft vessel when I sold it after over 13 years had zero electrolysis or corrosion in any of the many electrical connections
Martin Kannegieter Using a vice to squash the connector is no good. The result will not lay flat. Usually I drill the hole before cutting the tube, but when you are making a video, sometimes you end up doing things differently.
Thanks For Watching!
electronicsNmore Just for laughs, did you ever get your heat gun back? haha
+electronicsNmore you do know most vices have an anvil on the back.
Sam Noneofyourbisnus
Of course, but most people would use the jaws to flatten the copper, which is not good. The anvil is great.
I just smash the copper connector with a hammer onto the wire
Po
Very good video. I am an electronics technician and I find this valuable. Imagine needing to make a connection like this in an off grid situation in a remote location. This could save the day! Thanks!
Where do you get the copper from.
It's really funny to me how much a person will argue with someone else trying to prove that their way is the right way and the only way. I seriously doubt that in most cases there will be enough pressure or heat applied to this connector to cause it to break apart or un-solder itself. But I know that there are those times when all the stars and planets line up and it'll happen. But if your starter goes bad causing it to pull high amps then I'm pretty sure you'll either be at a auto supply store where you can pick up a new connector, have your car in the shop for the repair where they'll fix the connector, or you can just resolder/crimp the old one back on. The fact is that there's more than one way to do everything and each way has its good and bad points. To the guys that were saying that their time is worth too much to take the time to do this I agree, sort of. I'm nit saying that my time is worth too much to be wasting it on making one of these, I'm only saying that I'm lazy and would rather just buy one. Also, it's funny but cause your time is worth too much to make a connector but not too valuable to waste your time arguing online with someone that you don't know over something as trivial as this. If I was going to do this I'd solder it. I've been installing car alarms for 20+ years and I solder every connection. But I live close to the ocean where the salt air eats away at the connections and causes many problems with just a simple crimp. So the good outweighs the bad in this situation. Do what you think is best for your application. Stop feeling the need to prove how smart you all are because it's making you look stupid.
Mike Mace I live within 100' of the ocean, and I also agree, soldering prevents any salt air from finding its way into a crimped connector which can cause it to corrode and result in a high resistance connection. In the video I stated that crimping and soldering is the way to go if you are looking for the most secure way and lowest resistance connection.
Thanks For watching, and yes, some people love to complain, even when they don't pay for something.
Car alarm guys are the worst. Aftermarket Chinese electronics hacked into the wire harness does nothing for me .
You know what....thanks....lol really thanks....a while back I bought a dang cable to fix a terminal peace. And right when I jus saw the part about copper tubing I then realized I have plenty of copper tubing (refrigeration tubing) laying around my house....smdh....I really appreciate ur vids especially the a/c vids and troubleshooting
I did the same thing last week and here you are I'm a plumber I had other plumbers telling me not to dummies
Plumbing copper is almost as pure as electrical grade copper. Thanks for watching! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others.
Something so bloody obvious i've never thought about it!!!
+ifell3
Usually the way it is. :-)
Thank You!! I use these all of the time, and pay out the rear for them even the smaller crimp connectors. I had never thought of this, and now I don't have to pay the hardware store super-inflated price ever again!!
+Deni Downs
You're welcome. Does not matter where you buy them, the larger sizes are always expensive. Thanks For Watching!
Amazing how many people complain about some free advice for the AVERAGE person with AVERAGE tools. Are there better ways to do this job? Sure. Will this job do the trick quickly, for next to nothing, with common tools that most people already own, AND last the life of the car. Absolutely
Nice touch with the heat-shrink tubing. Not absolutely necessary, but if you have some on hand, all the better.It makes it look nice and should keep moisture etc out of the joint
You're right. There are many "experts" on RUclips, but many have no videos uploaded to their channel and have very few if any subscribers. Some people like to complain and show they know more than you(even if they don't). I tend to ignore them, rather than argue.The idea shown in this video is a very good idea which I have used for many years. I only upload "good" content to my channel.
Thanks For Watching!
I thought of doing what you just demonstrated. I knew that someone had to think of it already, so I looked it up. It works.
+SuperCal
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make the hole before you cut the tube i think is easier that way.
Genius! I just paid 8 bucks for two yesterday!
Mike Benincasa They can be very expensive depending where you buy them, which is why I always make my own.
Thanks For Watching!
You don't really want to solder high current connections. Crimping is better. But...it's your video. 8D
I have seen many cables over the years that were only crimped and developed a high resistance connection between the wire and connector causing them to heat up and burn. If you are connected to a fused circuit, the wire will never be able to heat up if the wire size is correct. If you are using the connector off a battery, then it would be a very good idea to crimp AND solder the connection in the event the wire short circuits(which is very rare), the solder would melt if the wire was not fused. Crimping the wire and soldering it, would keep the wire from coming out of the connector and eliminate any chance of a high resistance connection withing the connector..
Thanks For Watching.
The rule I live by is crimp larger gauge wire and solder the smaller gauge. If the wire is crimped correctly you will have no problems. In the real world you won't see too many larger gauge connections with solder on them.
Ampacity?
Macabre Artist I agree but if you or out on road/trail a knife and vice grips would work also it is a quick fix to get you home or to the nearest parts store. The copper tubbing is much cheaper the buying them,I agree.Thanks for sharing.
Nothing wrong with crimp-only connections as long as they are done properly using the correct good quality properly calibrated tool and good quality crimp connectors/lugs.
In fact, the wiring on modern aircraft uses crimp connections almost exclusively. Such connections have proven more reliable than solder connections.
For the DIYer/hobbyist, crimp and then soldering does make sense since you don't have access to such expensive tools, but please don't generalize that crimps are only for lazy slobs. That couldn't be farther from the truth.
A proper crimp, on smaller gauge wire, the wire will often break before the crimp fails. Larger wire you can hang your entire weight on the end of the wire and it won't budge.
Is good that i found this video after i bought 8 cable lugs for my big 3 upgrade...
Thank you, i will keep this in mind for the next projects!!
Glad you enjoyed the video! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others. Thank You
Maybe drill your hole in the flat and smooth the corners on a grinder before cutting off the tube, easier to hold a larger piece and less chance of deforming it with pliers!
Yes; keep the work larger for that operation and it is easier to work.
This is one of the best videos I've ever seen.
+Jonathan Schell
Thank You Jonathan! Be sure to check out my video playlists, rate thumbs up, and share. I have many interesting/excellent videos.
I steal all the copper pipe I use so I save even more $$$
I hope that's a joke. someone stole all the copper pipe and wire out of my house. at a bad time just before I can move in. the house I lived in burned to the ground a few months ago. so I have basically nothing. didn't have insurance. so now all my wire and pipe so now I gotta find a way to fix all that and replace everything else. all for just a few bucks. that could have been worked for in two hours. and take months of my pay to replace! why would somebody do that to anybody? what kind of world? I wouldn't even have thought to do something so low! and if you are gonna steal they gotta be something that pays better. some ppl!
you have to expect the worst to happen and rejoice when it doesn't. I might suggest that you consider using pex if it is allowed in your are. it is quick and considerably cheaper than copper but not as resistant to puncture so you need to consider that.
James stranger Dude, he was being sarcastic. Come on, now.
A House with NO Insurance??? That's like Lifes #1 RULE.... THAT should NEVER Happen !!!!!!!!!!! Sorry, no pity
So that where all my lug are going - good to know
Very good and informative. I always make these lugs myself, though I never worked with copper pipe, I have worked with copper plate. I do the soldering with a 100 Watt soldering iron with a massive copper tip and resin-core solder for electronics (1 mm diameter). The 100 Watt soldering iron method also works very well, also with this type of thick cable, works good to approx 7-8 mm cable. Heat the lug with the iron during approx. 30 sec-1 min, and the solder is sucked in when it melts. It is very good that you show the importance of thorough cleaning.Liked!
I have a 100/150 dual wattage iron that I have used to do the same thing.
Thanks For Watching!
wow, how much is your time worth to save $2?
I'd rather take less than 2 minutes to make of these for a few cents, than pay $2.00 and up for one. That is what a smart person does. :-) If you like to throw money away, or money comes very easy to you, then go buy them.
Well, lets see....$2.00 for 2 min, uhmmm, that's $60/hour. Sounds good to me.
*****
I can easily make one of these in under 2 minutes. I don't have to prove anything to you or anyone else. If you have a problem with my video, then find another channel to watch. I don't have time for rude/idiotic comments from viewers. The finished product is NOT inferior, but some people sure are.
wow dude, post a video of you making them in less then two minuets. Also show the tin plating too. oh and the certification testing too, but I'd be happy with a pull out test and a cross sectional cut thru image.
Law-of Ohms
Another, wise @ss viewer. Unfortunately YT has many of them. Copper is copper. I thought you were long gone. LOL
Cool! It never occurred to me to use copper tubing to make an eyelet terminal. Great idea! Also, I'd like to suggest drilling a small hole in the terminal near where the end of the cable actually go into the terminal. This way you can apply your solder through the hole, and when you see it coming out near the insulation of the cable you know it's completely filled with solder. It also has the advantage of helping to not melt the insulation during soldering.
Robert Gantry That idea is good, but not really necessary. Capillary action will draw the solder into the connector. You can tell when it fills up.
Thanks For Watching!
Why is it pronounced "sodder" when it is spelt "solder" - what happened to the "L"?
Unless you are British, the "L" is silent. The same reason why you do not pronounce "salmon" as SAL-MON. You say, "SAMMON". Silent "L". :-) Many examples out there.
For the record, we pronounce the L in Australia and New Zealand as well. Different strokes for different folks!
electronicsNmore well said!👍🇬🇧
I have been doing this for years. I drill the hole before cutting the connector off. The long pipe gives me something to hold on to. Never used the heat shrink. That was a nice job with the heat shrink. Thanks
Usually I do drill first, but with all the interruptions(people, barking dogs, road traffic, planes) I deal with when making videos, I lost my train of thought. Thanks for watching!
NEVER EVER solder, it crumbles after a few years, only crimp ( from experience)
I never had any problems at all. I've been making these for 20+ years. I prefer to solder and crimp if you don't have a high compression tool. If you do, just crimp and apply heat shrink. Thanks for watching
I agree - especially in automotive or marine applications where vibration is a factor. The solder transition makes a hard spot where the wire will “work” and weaken. (For marine I’d recommend against this DIY method because fully tinned fittings are critical to avoiding corrosion in connections)
Absolutely! OK for cars but marine needs tinned cable and lugs, no solder and adhesive heat shrink.
If it overheats then solder melts.........
I cut one of my crimps (proper high leverage tool) and the copper was squished so tight it looked like a solid copper rod.
Get a heat gun to shrink the tubing ffs!
I wouldn’t let you near my boat with those techniques
I just wanted to say thanks for sharing this video I read comments where so many did not know of this trick for all the naysayers some of these comments are are merely sharing their methods of doing this I think that's what RUclips is all about in my book sharing knowledge . hope you didn't take my suggestion wrong I don't believe you did you sent a like to me about it after all everybody does things different maybe some watching can read all the different ways n decide for themselves what's best thank you
Brilliant idea. I am not a fan of crimping these though. What I like to do is tin the wire, then flux the inside of the connector. With the connector in a vise or being held up with Vice Grips or the likes, heat the connector and melt solder inside the end and fill it about 1/3 of the way, then push the already tinned wire in the hole with the melted solder. Finish it off with some shrink tube and you have a very permanent connection.
Thank You! I do that also. I sometimes vary my method. One thing I never do is only crimp, unless the connector I am using is silicone filled to prevent air/moisture from entering. If I had a very thick copper lug, and a hydraulic crimper just like the power companies use on high tension power lines, then I would only crimp/heat shrink.
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Very good idea. If doing loads of these , would suggest getting some electrical solder, it has flux incorporated. Used 2 use loads of these at old job building fire trucks. Put in a vise and do upside down and seemed 2 make look just a little nicer.
Slick.thanks dude,I have 2 older golf carts and a couple of mowers, this will help us out big time. Thanks.
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Why didnt i think of this.. i have been buying these copper ends forever.. this is great to know... Thanks..
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Unibits are PERFECT for that job or resizing commercial lugs because the soft metal doesn't "climb" the Unibit as it does a twist drill.
Good video!
Great idea to save a few $ especially if you need a lot. Drilling and filing before cutting to length makes it easier to hold and stop any posibility of deforming the cable end with the pliers, You can also use pre glued heatshrink to seal.
Wow... To think of all the money I wasted on buying these cable lugs over the years... What Great Idea and video...
Thank You. Yes, they are a big rip off.
I like this guy’s videos. Very knowledgeable!
Great to hear! Thanks for watching and be sure to share.
Years ago I was in the woods working on a log loader on a Sunday I found I needed a battery cable I made it out of a piece of jumper cables and made a copper end like you did except . I stripped the cable long enough to reach all the way through the copper tubing then I flattened the end with the cable inside. Then I drilled through the copper and the cable.
My plan was to replace the cable the next time I had the loader in the shop but it worked so good I never did. I have used the technique many times since then. I like the cable extending through the connection then flattening it traps the Cable in the eye and when the eye is tightened on the post it's adds to the strength and connection
Thanks for watching Tim! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others.
I've been in lawn equipment repair for 25 years and have also been
making those for just as long. I guess great minds DO think alike.
Thanks For Watching!
Wow Thats awesome. So taking back these terminals I bought today!
Depending where you buy them, and the size, they can be a big rip off. Thanks for watching!
Super legit. I'll be making a bunch of these for our van conversion. Thanks for putting this out there
You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed it. I have many great videos on my channel that cover a wide range of subjects unlike 98% of channels on RUclips, so be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, and most importantly share my channel with many others. Thanks
I wish I had found you before buying a dozen 4/0 lugs for my solar cables. Great video thanks brother. I will make my own from now on.
Those are expensive! I'd use type "K" thick walled soft copper of the correct size. I also have another video showing how I tin the connectors once I make them. Thanks for watching
This is a good video and explanation on how to repair a bad low voltage cable connection DIY. ( 12 v or less ). Bottom line is DIY and save $ or go for a more expensive solution. There is always another way. Its up to the person with the problem. No need to criticize someone for trying to show his solution .
What a great idea, thanks for sharing
Your welcome. Check out my video list!
buddy this conector is much better than in a store !!!!!!!!!!!
yes true...
That's a great tip ! I liked how you describe things as your doing them . I'm surprised i didn't think of that .
Thanks for watching Perry! Be sure to share my channel/videos with others and rate Thumbs up.
That drill bit is great-I'll look out for one.Only possible suggestion I could make is to tin the wire to stop any wayward strand catching on the connector and give visual indication of when to add solder-probably an unnecessary complication though.
This should be the go to video for instructions.
Very smart ! I am gonna do the same. Otherwise these terminals are too expensive for nothing. Thank you great video.
Awesome video, I can tell you're one of those guys that's a jack of all trades. That's fantastic !!
Glad you enjoyed the video! Yes, I have a very wide range of skills which can be seen on my channel. Thanks for watching, and be sure to share. :-)
Nice. I'm going to squash the end of an old 1/2 inch copper tube to attach to a metal awning for use as a lightning arrestor.
Very nice video. Advice on soldering is very true.
Unless you have a hydraulic crimper, then always crimp and solder.Thanks for watching!
Awesome idea! I spent an hour time and a bunch of gas trying to find copper connectors for #4 ga. battery cables for my boat. Paid about $5 each and a ton of hassle finding them. Thanks for sharing your nifty idea.
Wow. $5 each. What criminals. You can easily tin the outside of the connector for added corrosion resistance for marine use. Once the connector is made, you thoroughly clean the outside of the lug, coat it in a light layer of flux, then dip it in some molten solder.
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Impressive.. thanks for our life hacks.
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Great Video !
I love the engineering back and forth, its usually as valuable as the video content.
I just wish people wouldn't so dickish in their worldviews.
There are a lot of smart people here, and the "How To" Videos make up a superhuman, parallel processing network of smartiness - enjoy !
i like your voice. good video.
Kimo sabe Thank you. :-) Be sure to rate thumbs up and share.
Great idea. Never thought of it myself. Thanks
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I have used a pain of side cutters to "round the ends".
Annealing the copper by Heating until it glows then let it cool slowly in air.
Will make it easier (softer) to work with if needed.
Thank you
+Sol Shady Copper is different than ferrous metal. So to anneal copper you quench it while it is hot. Which is the opposite of how ferrous metal works.
Out in the professional Telecom field we used a number of different calibrated crimpers. Just crimping a connector is asking for trouble. Soldering is good but impractically slow out in the field. So the proper procedure for crimping is to use no-ox first and then crimp with calibrated crimper. The no-ox keeps the air out so the connection doesn't deteriorate and the calibrated crimpers practically weld the joint together.
Personally I like a good solder joint as I cant afford the fancy crimpers.
I used Noalox for many years on all my AL/CU connections, especially when connecting new circuit breaker panels/meters and disconnects.
thanks for the video, I love making parts like this, good job. You guys with a better way or complaints, 'MAKE YOUR OWN VIDEO"
Thanks for watching Steve! You're correct, most people that complain, or pick on every little detail in the video, are usually people with no videos themselves, and very few if any subscribers. The fact of the matter is, this idea is great, and I have proven it over and over. You don't have to do things "exactly" as I showed in the video, you can modify certain steps if you desired, but the idea shown is great.
Wow what a great and simple idea. Thanks
Your welcome Chris.
Be sure to share, and check out my other videos as well.
Thanks
great video, getting ready to redo the battery leads in my car and this will save me a good bit of money.
Hi its a very good idea and I am installing my amp and cap this weekend. I will try this...what I will do diff: 1/ I will drill the hole before I cut the copper pipe and 2/ I will try to put some solder in side the pipe so when I heat up the pipe the wire can easy solder. again great trick
great job i would not of thought of using copper tubing.
lynda wilson Yes, contrary to what a very small percentage of my viewers or should I say, "RUclips Experts" have to say, the idea works flawlessly when done correctly. :-)Thank you for watching! Please share and rate thumbs up
nice, good and clear video. i can't wait to try this out.
It works great.
Good video. There's actually a school of thought that says a good quality crimp plus marine/adhesive lined heat shrink is not only just fine, but preferably in situations where there's vibration (such as a motorcycle grounding lug and starter power lugs) apparently because solder is brittle and can crack in those applications, hurting more than it helps. Plus it's just way easier to skip that step. The compression crimper from Harbor Freight is a fantastic tool, but you can even use a flat blade screwdriver plus hammer to make the crimp. I don't claim to be an expert but I trust the intelligent people I picked this info up from. The wiring on all my bikes has been rocksteady for years with these methods. Thanks for sharing!
Crimping and soldering, followed by heat shrink with glue is the best. Thanks for watching!
+electronicsNmore OOC why do you feel the solder is necessary when a high quality compression crimper is used? I've put mine to the test, hanging 50 lb dumbbells from the lug hole and they will no come loose. Plus the solder is less conductive than the stranded wire and increases resistance. Not trying to argue, I just think you should quantify the statement; "solder is best!" instead of just, "Thanks for watching!" ;)
elamovs In the past I've seen cables that were only crimped develop a high resistance connection. Flowing the surfaces of the wire and connector together, is far better than close contact. Most people do not have a high quality high compression crimper. :-)
A good alternative. I guess it comes down to which is more important to you ... pennies saved or the time to make them. Plus not all of us have the proper skills & tools to do it correctly.
Thanks for watching!
Well that's a big thumbs up...! I will have to try this next time I need a lug. I usually go to electrician's supply stores to get mine. They're pretty cheap that way. Not as cheap as making your own like this ov course, but far more realistically priced than buying them from an auto parts store or something! The only issue is they are rated in millimetres for the electrical industry in New Zealand, but most cabling I tend to use is in AWG so a bit ov conversion needed.
Thank you! Just look for the proper size copper refrigeration tubing for your wire size. Check the fit.
Inventive & ingenious, I'd never thought of doing this. I was waiting for the part where you crimped the fitting but either missed it or you didn't do it? I've always done both, particularly with the bigger gauged - heavier load stuff.
BTW: At fist I thought your video was "Make Copper 12V Battery Lugs with Pennies"! Duh....
You can also crimp them before you solder them, but the solder is strong enough all by itself. Never had a problem.
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