I have the same one, but mine is in really good shape. I doubt it has ever been apart. The biggest issue was the J hook stuck, got that working. Thanks for the video
I saw a video on youtube somewhere (I can't seem to find it now) where a fella blued the "pipes" that the fence rides on with Brownell's "Oxpho-Blue" liquid...like you'd use for re-bluing an old revolver. It kept the pipes from rusting and looked very sharp. He then took a lacquer paint stick and filled in the stamped measurements on the pipe in front. I'm going to do that to mine whether I ever find that video again or not. The crank handles on my Rockwell 9" contractor saw are worn out too. Maybe I'll be able to find some like you did on Amazon that will fit my saw.
After 40 years with my Delta Contractors saw ( same fence) I removed the metal side extentions and throwing them and the fence out. I bought a new fence from Rockwell and made plywood extentions.
Your Rockwell was in better shape than the 3440 that I found...someone went buck wild on every surface including the fence, with an angle grinder and what appears to have been a 60 grit sanding/grinding disc. Thank you for the part #s for the rubber spacer / grommets.
The pin on the right that you suggest is for moving the fence left and right is actually ONLY for micro adjustments AFTER you get the fence close to where it should be by simply manually pushing/pulling/tapping the fence to the desired setting. It should have a spring keeping it pushed out. To use the micro adjustment you have to push inwards against a spring which allows the gears to engage so you can get fine adjustment left or right. DO NOT put that large crank wheel on it as that is not its intention and you will never use it as such. You can easily live without it if your tapping skills are accurate... I don't like to use it much b/c when I engage it, the fence only moves the front portion and the far end lags behind out of square. Then when you go to lock it down it brings the far end into square but it shifts - which is frustrating.
Thank you for the comment, yes, the big wheel was abandon as I have found that I actually have to check that the fence is parallel to the blade if I am wanting a real accurate cut. I will take a measurement at the front and back of the blade if the cut really matters
I added both the McMaster part number and the Hillman part number to the description, Hillman part can be had on Amazon or your local ace hardware store
The pin that runs through the cam is supposed to be a loose fit in the casting. The thing that holds the pin in is the handle stud. As you noted that stud hits the pen. It is built that way. That's how you can disassemble the cam even though the pin is in a blind hole. When working as intended, the pin rotates in the casting, the cam does not rotate on the pin.
@@dgreene909I have the same fence, ok the ball is burgundy. I need to take it apart because the lever is to one side. The pin held in place by the handle explains a lot. The j hook on mine was stuck, got it all apart but the super stiff spring inside for the hook confuses me a bit. Thanks for the comment. With this I thi think I can make it 100% is going on a 113 vintage Craftsman
Hello @skudwoofer ! I've come across your video while researching where and how to repair the rip fence. My grandfather has the same fence and the end of it snapped. I watched in the video where you said you might print a new one or recreate one from metal. Did you ever get around to making that part and if so, would you be willing to make and sell one to me? My grandfather is happiest in the barn making birdhouses and I make furniture but for the life of me I can't find that replacement part! Hope your day is going well! Thanks!
Unfortunately not. I haven't had a chance to go back out there and do any improvements. Probably going to replace the fence with a more accurate unit as the fence itself has a bit of a bow in it, and there are far more accurate and simple designs. If I were him, I would talk someone with a 3d printer to make him one out of plastic and he could put a nut in the plastic where the rod screws into it. The plastic is pretty durable these days and chances are, you know someone that has a 3d plastic printer. Hope he gets it fixed!
Read my comment I just left regarding the fence micro adjustment... You don't need a crank b/c it's ONLY for micro adjustments once you manually get the fence close. You really just need a handle that you can push in and then twist left or right. When you let it go it should pop back out and disengage the gears. Therefore, you can have a large nut that is graspable welded on, (or welded onto smaller nut that will then thread on....
I have the same one, but mine is in really good shape. I doubt it has ever been apart. The biggest issue was the J hook stuck, got that working. Thanks for the video
I saw a video on youtube somewhere (I can't seem to find it now) where a fella blued the "pipes" that the fence rides on with Brownell's "Oxpho-Blue" liquid...like you'd use for re-bluing an old revolver. It kept the pipes from rusting and looked very sharp. He then took a lacquer paint stick and filled in the stamped measurements on the pipe in front. I'm going to do that to mine whether I ever find that video again or not. The crank handles on my Rockwell 9" contractor saw are worn out too. Maybe I'll be able to find some like you did on Amazon that will fit my saw.
After 40 years with my Delta Contractors saw ( same fence) I removed the metal side extentions and throwing them and the fence out. I bought a new fence from Rockwell and made plywood extentions.
Your Rockwell was in better shape than the 3440 that I found...someone went buck wild on every surface including the fence, with an angle grinder and what appears to have been a 60 grit sanding/grinding disc. Thank you for the part #s for the rubber spacer / grommets.
Fantastic video, thanks for the help!
The pin on the right that you suggest is for moving the fence left and right is actually ONLY for micro adjustments AFTER you get the fence close to where it should be by simply manually pushing/pulling/tapping the fence to the desired setting. It should have a spring keeping it pushed out.
To use the micro adjustment you have to push inwards against a spring which allows the gears to engage so you can get fine adjustment left or right.
DO NOT put that large crank wheel on it as that is not its intention and you will never use it as such. You can easily live without it if your tapping skills are accurate...
I don't like to use it much b/c when I engage it, the fence only moves the front portion and the far end lags behind out of square. Then when you go to lock it down it brings the far end into square but it shifts - which is frustrating.
Thank you for the comment, yes, the big wheel was abandon as I have found that I actually have to check that the fence is parallel to the blade if I am wanting a real accurate cut. I will take a measurement at the front and back of the blade if the cut really matters
thanks for posting this, want to sell my old one, but needs the back clamp, do you know where I can find a replacement? mine is on ebay
No, probably going to have to fab one or if you know someone with a 3d printer, but may not be strong enough out of plastic...
T/Y for a nice effort!
What was the Dorman bushing or spacer part number you ended up using? I’m going through this very process with my saw….
I added both the McMaster part number and the Hillman part number to the description, Hillman part can be had on Amazon or your local ace hardware store
@@skudwoofer gr8 thank you
The pin that runs through the cam is supposed to be a loose fit in the casting. The thing that holds the pin in is the handle stud. As you noted that stud hits the pen. It is built that way. That's how you can disassemble the cam even though the pin is in a blind hole. When working as intended, the pin rotates in the casting, the cam does not rotate on the pin.
@@dgreene909I have the same fence, ok the ball is burgundy. I need to take it apart because the lever is to one side. The pin held in place by the handle explains a lot. The j hook on mine was stuck, got it all apart but the super stiff spring inside for the hook confuses me a bit. Thanks for the comment. With this I thi think I can make it 100% is going on a 113 vintage Craftsman
Hello @skudwoofer ! I've come across your video while researching where and how to repair the rip fence. My grandfather has the same fence and the end of it snapped. I watched in the video where you said you might print a new one or recreate one from metal. Did you ever get around to making that part and if so, would you be willing to make and sell one to me? My grandfather is happiest in the barn making birdhouses and I make furniture but for the life of me I can't find that replacement part! Hope your day is going well! Thanks!
Unfortunately not. I haven't had a chance to go back out there and do any improvements. Probably going to replace the fence with a more accurate unit as the fence itself has a bit of a bow in it, and there are far more accurate and simple designs. If I were him, I would talk someone with a 3d printer to make him one out of plastic and he could put a nut in the plastic where the rod screws into it. The plastic is pretty durable these days and chances are, you know someone that has a 3d plastic printer. Hope he gets it fixed!
Read my comment I just left regarding the fence micro adjustment... You don't need a crank b/c it's ONLY for micro adjustments once you manually get the fence close. You really just need a handle that you can push in and then twist left or right. When you let it go it should pop back out and disengage the gears.
Therefore, you can have a large nut that is graspable welded on, (or welded onto smaller nut that will then thread on....