Thank you for taking the time put this video out. I've found bits and pieces of useful guidance for amp repair as a beginner. This video was one more step in amp repair. Thank you.
@@TonyBursey i repaired my Fender FM212R guitar amp. Replace some caps a componet that attaches to the heat sync. I'm very scared to plug it in to my wall socket and trip the main breaker to my home and or get shocked. What is the safest way to do that ? I read somewhere the i should use a isolation chamber or a variak. Are they a safe way to power up the amp with out these concerns ?
Super helpful! I've got a Frontman 25R, which is very similar, but it uses a TDA1514a chip instead. Do you have any tips for testing if that chip is shot the way you have for the 2050?
Thanks for the question. I did a quick search and found a data sheet electro-dan.co.uk/Electronics/TDA1514A.pdf. With the 2050, the ground pin should not have continuity with any other pin otherwise it was bad. I would think that would also be the case with this chip. Hope it helps.
Sir, my amp turns on but when I plug it on my guitar, doesn't reproduce any guitar sound, just buzzes, what could be wrong? The amp or the input jack? If it is the amp, what issue could it have?
Thanks for the question. Without seeing the amp, it is hard to say. If the amp is still on and there is no sound, it could be the input jack or it could also be the output to the speaker. It could also be a dirty volume pot. Do you get a crackle sound when you turn the volume knob back and forth or tap on it? If so it could just be dirty, in which you can get yourself some electrical contact cleaner. With the amp off, you would need to take out the chassis and spray the pots and then turn them all the way in each direction many times until they turn smooth and easy. You should also check all the solder connections while the board is out, especially on the input jack. I had to resolder my input jack connections on the board since they were cracked. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the question. I would first suggest that you get a schematic for your amp. You can download a PDF for the 25B from here: www.schematicsunlimited.com/f/fender/fender-frontman-25b-bass-amplifier-schematic. If you are sure it is the amp chip, this amp uses a TDA1514A chip. Depending on where you are, Amazon and eBay have listings. Hope this helps.
Hey Tony! My 15G has jumpy volume when I use normal volume knob, the stronger I strum the louder the attack is, while less loud notes are barely heard. I might've left an amp in a cold place for winter. What could be an issue and how to fix it?
I have been thinking about this for almost a week trying to find out what might be causing this and have not been able to find anything. The first thing I thought of was dirty pots but that would not explain the soft notes. Would not hurt to try cleaning the pots and the input jack with some electrical contact cleaner.
@@TonyBursey thanks for a reply! I'd give it a shot, although I wasn't a huge amp user the amp is around 15 years old so who knows. I'll reply back if it helped
Thanks for the question. You can use either a thin screwdriver or a sprial nail and put into one of the screw holes on the back to pry the back off. Mine was stuck pretty good but using a screw driver was better because of the handle... more to grip than the nail.
Ah, thank you for the answer. I managed to get it open using a screwdriver as leverage. That lid sure does want to stay in there, i guess the wood expands or something of the type.
i need some help sir. i bought my first amp (the frontman 15g) and when i select the drive it makes a awful sound, a reallyyyy loud sound. i think the amp is broken, or i dont know how to use it
@@blazingscarabs-yt6696 what i did wrong was putting my amp in a overused plug, like xbox and stuff. i put him with a single plug. i think its power issues (sorry for my english)
Great video, thanks for posting. I curious what the original issue was with the amp. I just picked one up on marketplace and there is a hissing sound that gets louder as i raise the volume but no guitar sound through the speaker at all. Wondering if TDA2050 might be my issue as well. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. I would suggest checking the solder connections on the board. it might be bad connections on the input jack. Seems to be pretty common
TONY BURSEY, if you remove the Choke in the power supply what does this do to the AC ripple? can this add harmonics and modulate the power tubes from the AC ripple signal?
Thanks for your question. This is a solid state amp and does not use tubes at all. Although I have not yet owned a tube amp, from what I have seen, you would not want to modulate the power going to tubes. They need to be biased properly in order to function, otherwise you will run the risk of burning them up.
Thanks for the question. The Fender Frontman 15G (and probably 15R) takes a 500mA 250V fuse for 100-125VAC supply or a 250mA 250V fuse for 220-240VAC supply. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the question. On my "Opening up a Fender Frontman" (15G) video ruclips.net/video/F8I_Tyd8JmU/видео.html, once you open the back, at the 1:02 mark, you will see that the board is mounted with 2 screws just above the speaker and I also removed the handle since the screws from the handle thread into the plate that the board is mounted to. I am not sure how the reverb tank is mounted in the 15R.
Thank you Tony I had to remove the reverb box which I found was fitted with 2 sided tape I think these are fitted last and this one may have been a bit high stopping me removing the chassis
I have the same amp and my drive channel works fine but the clean channel doesnt make sounds, just sometimes but then it clips and goes back to mute until the cycle repeats, any idea on what might be the issue?
Could be a number of things and difficult to say without looking at it. Might be the clean side of the drive switch, bad solder connections or maybe a capacitor.
Nico, thanks for the question. The Fender Frontman 15G (and probably 15R) takes a 500mA 250V fuse for 100-125VAC supply or a 250mA 250V fuse for 220-240VAC supply. If you open it up, this is right on the board beside the fuse holder and the fuse should also have it stamped on the ends.
Hi Tony, nice job on the repairs. My issue is that my amp can't make a sound, and the guitar and the cables are fine. The amp works well and turns on, it just does not respond. Is there any part of the video where you did a repair like that?
Thanks for the question. I have not had that happen, but you may want to start with the input jack or the speak connections both at the speaker and the board. Look for cracked solder connections. Obviously difficult to diagnose without actually seeing and testing.
My 15g has a good hum to it, the slightest tap it will go away and Vice-versa. I have it apart but I don’t rightly see anything out of the ordinary. With your experience do you know a few things I could look for/test?
Just to add a little more. I noticed that when I tapped on the red & white aux jacks that is what the buzz would more so start/stop. I have the board out now and there’s no cracked solder joints but the white port is sort of free floating and rattling inside.
Thanks for your comments. Sounds like you have found your issue. One thing I have heard is that using the aux ports with a device while plugged in to an outlet could cause the TDA 2050 amp chip to short out because of grounding getting crossed. I don't use the aux inputs but this is good info if mine starts to develop a hum.
Brian Torres thanks for the question. Yes it is. The PCB already has all the printed circuits in place. Fender used the same PCB for both the 15G and 15R. The reverb components just need to be soldered in. The front face of the chassis also already has the hole for the reverb pot. The 15G sticker on the front is put on right over but it would be easy to punch a hole in. I have been debating for a while whether or not to do it. I would have to pick up all the components so I don’t think it would be worth it really. Might cost less to pick up a used 15R. It would be a good project though. I have the schematic for the 15R somewhere with the list of components.
@@TonyBursey Thanks for answering my question, yes I did notice the printed circuits in the PCB so I was wondering if it could be done, and yes it would make a great project, more so now than I'm practicing my soldering skills, I've been searching for guidence in diferent forums but even though there's a lot people asking the same, most people answer that's not worth it. But I think it is, specially for southamerican countries where a used combo amp like the frontman 15r can be $130 or more. I'm watching you from Ecuador.
Thanks for the question. The Fender Frontman 15G (and probably 15R) takes a 500mA 250V fuse for 100-125VAC supply or a 250mA 250V fuse for 220-240VAC supply. If you open it up, this is right on the board beside the fuse holder and the fuse should also have it stamped on the ends.
The first thing to check with the amp unplugged is the fuse. If the fuse is blown, first check that the fuse is the correct one. The type of fuse is printed right on the circuit board. The fuse should have the type stamped into one of the ends. Get a few replacements of the same type and try a new one.
lgmnow kondo the fuse would blow as soon as I turned it on. The amp chip was shorted and needed to be replaced. It also has some broken solder connections that I fixed. I have not had an issue since.
The main amplifier IC, TDA2050 is a discontinued item now. But, still available on online auction sites. You checked the main transformer and declared the power supply was OK. Skipped over some VERY important PS circuitry, then presumed the main amp was bad. Not much troubleshooting there. Just sayin'.
it was a known common failure with these amps and easy to look for so I went there first. No need to continue looking at other things if I found the main issue and dealt with it. As you could easily see after, it was the main issue and the amp was working once again. Just sayin
Thank you for taking the time put this video out. I've found bits and pieces of useful guidance for amp repair as a beginner. This video was one more step in amp repair. Thank you.
Mr Music thank you for your comment and glad it was useful.
@@TonyBursey i repaired my Fender FM212R guitar amp. Replace some caps a componet that attaches to the heat sync. I'm very scared to plug it in to my wall socket and trip the main breaker to my home and or get shocked. What is the safest way to do that ? I read somewhere the i should use a isolation chamber or a variak. Are they a safe way to power up the amp with out these concerns ?
I'm grateful for people like you. Easy peasy. Mine was simply putting a fuse in.
Thanks for the comment. That's great news yours was that easy
@@TonyBursey , but now the question is, why was the fuse pulled? Soon, we shall see. Lol more to come.
A good fine Solder-Wick with a little liquid Flux works great for removing parts and leaving a nice clean surface to go back with.
Thanks for the tip. I will definitely try that next time.
Super helpful! I've got a Frontman 25R, which is very similar, but it uses a TDA1514a chip instead. Do you have any tips for testing if that chip is shot the way you have for the 2050?
Thanks for the question. I did a quick search and found a data sheet electro-dan.co.uk/Electronics/TDA1514A.pdf. With the 2050, the ground pin should not have continuity with any other pin otherwise it was bad. I would think that would also be the case with this chip. Hope it helps.
@@TonyBursey gotcha! Yeah I'm not seeing any connectivity between any of the pins. Maybe that's not the problem component for me
Thanks did this and saved an amp that would have gone to skip 👍.
Thanks for the comment and great that this video was helpful.
Can you increase the power of the amp by replacing the cheap with a more powerful one?
Sir, my amp turns on but when I plug it on my guitar, doesn't reproduce any guitar sound, just buzzes, what could be wrong? The amp or the input jack? If it is the amp, what issue could it have?
Thanks for the question. Without seeing the amp, it is hard to say. If the amp is still on and there is no sound, it could be the input jack or it could also be the output to the speaker. It could also be a dirty volume pot. Do you get a crackle sound when you turn the volume knob back and forth or tap on it? If so it could just be dirty, in which you can get yourself some electrical contact cleaner. With the amp off, you would need to take out the chassis and spray the pots and then turn them all the way in each direction many times until they turn smooth and easy. You should also check all the solder connections while the board is out, especially on the input jack. I had to resolder my input jack connections on the board since they were cracked. Hope this helps.
Hi, I have a fender 25B
The amplifier chip is burned, I need to replace it, but I'm not sure where I find the right replace part, can you help me?
Thanks for the question. I would first suggest that you get a schematic for your amp. You can download a PDF for the 25B from here: www.schematicsunlimited.com/f/fender/fender-frontman-25b-bass-amplifier-schematic. If you are sure it is the amp chip, this amp uses a TDA1514A chip. Depending on where you are, Amazon and eBay have listings. Hope this helps.
Hi tony how are you doing today i have same think its work but its making sizzle what can cause fusion ?
Hey Tony! My 15G has jumpy volume when I use normal volume knob, the stronger I strum the louder the attack is, while less loud notes are barely heard. I might've left an amp in a cold place for winter. What could be an issue and how to fix it?
I have been thinking about this for almost a week trying to find out what might be causing this and have not been able to find anything. The first thing I thought of was dirty pots but that would not explain the soft notes. Would not hurt to try cleaning the pots and the input jack with some electrical contact cleaner.
@@TonyBursey thanks for a reply! I'd give it a shot, although I wasn't a huge amp user the amp is around 15 years old so who knows. I'll reply back if it helped
Any help on opening this guy?
Have removed pretty much every screw on it, can't seem to figure it out.
Thanks for the question. You can use either a thin screwdriver or a sprial nail and put into one of the screw holes on the back to pry the back off. Mine was stuck pretty good but using a screw driver was better because of the handle... more to grip than the nail.
Ah, thank you for the answer. I managed to get it open using a screwdriver as leverage. That lid sure does want to stay in there, i guess the wood expands or something of the type.
i need some help sir. i bought my first amp (the frontman 15g) and when i select the drive it makes a awful sound, a reallyyyy loud sound. i think the amp is broken, or i dont know how to use it
Having the same issue. Wish I had a solution man.
@@blazingscarabs-yt6696 what i did wrong was putting my amp in a overused plug, like xbox and stuff. i put him with a single plug. i think its power issues (sorry for my english)
raco 29 Awesome, thanks for the input. I will definitely try this out myself.
@@blazingscarabs-yt6696 let me know if it worked
raco 29 Will do!
Great video, thanks for posting. I curious what the original issue was with the amp. I just picked one up on marketplace and there is a hissing sound that gets louder as i raise the volume but no guitar sound through the speaker at all. Wondering if TDA2050 might be my issue as well. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. I would suggest checking the solder connections on the board. it might be bad connections on the input jack. Seems to be pretty common
TONY BURSEY,
if you remove the Choke in the power supply what does this do to the AC ripple?
can this add harmonics and modulate the power tubes from the AC ripple signal?
Thanks for your question. This is a solid state amp and does not use tubes at all. Although I have not yet owned a tube amp, from what I have seen, you would not want to modulate the power going to tubes. They need to be biased properly in order to function, otherwise you will run the risk of burning them up.
Is the problem of the amp is not turning on?
what fuse do you have in? I got a second hand one of these and it's just a bit of copper jammed in the fuse spot 😢
Thanks for the question. The Fender Frontman 15G (and probably 15R) takes a 500mA 250V fuse for 100-125VAC supply or a 250mA 250V fuse for 220-240VAC supply. Hope this helps.
@@TonyBursey thanks!
Can you tell me how to remove the board out of the cabinet
It don’t seem to fit out the back of the cabinet when the reverb can is in
Thanks for the question. On my "Opening up a Fender Frontman" (15G) video ruclips.net/video/F8I_Tyd8JmU/видео.html, once you open the back, at the 1:02 mark, you will see that the board is mounted with 2 screws just above the speaker and I also removed the handle since the screws from the handle thread into the plate that the board is mounted to.
I am not sure how the reverb tank is mounted in the 15R.
Thank you Tony
I had to remove the reverb box which I found was fitted with 2 sided tape
I think these are fitted last and this one may have been a bit high stopping me removing the chassis
I have the same amp and my drive channel works fine but the clean channel doesnt make sounds, just sometimes but then it clips and goes back to mute until the cycle repeats, any idea on what might be the issue?
Could be a number of things and difficult to say without looking at it. Might be the clean side of the drive switch, bad solder connections or maybe a capacitor.
How do you take out the circuit board
What fuse does the Fender Frontman 15G use? Mine has blown out but I am really unsure of which replacement to buy online.
Nico, thanks for the question. The Fender Frontman 15G (and probably 15R) takes a 500mA 250V fuse for 100-125VAC supply or a 250mA 250V fuse for 220-240VAC supply. If you open it up, this is right on the board beside the fuse holder and the fuse should also have it stamped on the ends.
Tony Bursey thank you so much 👌
@@NRLCS1 No problem at all
Hi Tony, nice job on the repairs. My issue is that my amp can't make a sound, and the guitar and the cables are fine. The amp works well and turns on, it just does not respond. Is there any part of the video where you did a repair like that?
Thanks for the question. I have not had that happen, but you may want to start with the input jack or the speak connections both at the speaker and the board. Look for cracked solder connections. Obviously difficult to diagnose without actually seeing and testing.
My 15g has a good hum to it, the slightest tap it will go away and Vice-versa. I have it apart but I don’t rightly see anything out of the ordinary. With your experience do you know a few things I could look for/test?
Just to add a little more. I noticed that when I tapped on the red & white aux jacks that is what the buzz would more so start/stop. I have the board out now and there’s no cracked solder joints but the white port is sort of free floating and rattling inside.
Thanks for your comments. Sounds like you have found your issue. One thing I have heard is that using the aux ports with a device while plugged in to an outlet could cause the TDA 2050 amp chip to short out because of grounding getting crossed. I don't use the aux inputs but this is good info if mine starts to develop a hum.
I recently bought a 15g, it was used and got it for only $15, but it won’t turn on at all. Any idea what it might be?
Could be as simple as a blown fuse. Make sure you have the amp unplugged and take the back off to check.
How do you test the j 111? 🤔
is it possible to add the reberb circuit to the pcb of this frontman?
Brian Torres thanks for the question. Yes it is. The PCB already has all the printed circuits in place. Fender used the same PCB for both the 15G and 15R. The reverb components just need to be soldered in. The front face of the chassis also already has the hole for the reverb pot. The 15G sticker on the front is put on right over but it would be easy to punch a hole in.
I have been debating for a while whether or not to do it. I would have to pick up all the components so I don’t think it would be worth it really. Might cost less to pick up a used 15R.
It would be a good project though.
I have the schematic for the 15R somewhere with the list of components.
@@TonyBursey Thanks for answering my question, yes I did notice the printed circuits in the PCB so I was wondering if it could be done, and yes it would make a great project, more so now than I'm practicing my soldering skills, I've been searching for guidence in diferent forums but even though there's a lot people asking the same, most people answer that's not worth it.
But I think it is, specially for southamerican countries where a used combo amp like the frontman 15r can be $130 or more. I'm watching you from Ecuador.
what kind of fuse does the frontman 15g use
Thanks for the question. The Fender Frontman 15G (and probably 15R) takes a 500mA 250V fuse for 100-125VAC supply or a 250mA 250V fuse for 220-240VAC supply. If you open it up, this is right on the board beside the fuse holder and the fuse should also have it stamped on the ends.
@@TonyBursey thanks for the info ,I saw the info in the case , but my eyesight sucks. so thanks brother
Sir my amp is the same on this video and my issue is my amp is not turning on
The first thing to check with the amp unplugged is the fuse. If the fuse is blown, first check that the fuse is the correct one. The type of fuse is printed right on the circuit board. The fuse should have the type stamped into one of the ends. Get a few replacements of the same type and try a new one.
was the issue that it just didnt work at all?
lgmnow kondo the fuse would blow as soon as I turned it on. The amp chip was shorted and needed to be replaced. It also has some broken solder connections that I fixed. I have not had an issue since.
@@TonyBursey what chip was blown in your amp?
@@greenspider3664 TDA2050 amp chip
The main amplifier IC, TDA2050 is a discontinued item now. But, still available on online auction sites. You checked the main transformer and declared the power supply was OK. Skipped over some VERY important PS circuitry, then presumed the main amp was bad. Not much troubleshooting there. Just sayin'.
it was a known common failure with these amps and easy to look for so I went there first. No need to continue looking at other things if I found the main issue and dealt with it. As you could easily see after, it was the main issue and the amp was working once again. Just sayin