How RIB Relays Work & What They Can Do
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- Опубликовано: 4 фев 2023
- Unlock the secrets of a RIB Relay and discover how to harness its power to control anything, even to turning off your TV with the touch of a button on your phone through a wifi device.
RIB Relay: amzn.to/3RA2yGx 
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Retired from a large hospital. JCI ( Johnson control ) took care of most of the controls. Last big project this usually best in class company installed 4 to 6 RIB relays on bottom of panels and were too.lazy to install terminal strips so just had cable tied sloppy bundle of wire nuts making troubleshooting a pain.Nice cheap relays. Great having an indicating lamp telling you when their power on one of the coils..
awesome vid.
I have a rental unit with a nat gas space heater in the living room, but I need a powered duct to push air from the ceiling of the warm living room up into the attic and down into the kitchen on the far end of the unit.
I had a timer switch for the tenants to use, 30min, 60min, 4/8/12hr then it shuts off. That's better than nothing. But I got the idea last night to use a thermostat to control a relay to turn that powered 6" duct on/off.
THe only weird thing that will happen in this setup is if the nat gas space heater is off, the thermostat in the kitchen will drop in temp, and turn the blower on, but it will just circulate the cold air (as it doesn't know if the nat gas space heater is on or off). I think I'll put the relay into a 2-gage metal box for the tenants to turn everything off in the kitchen when the heat isn't on. It would turn off the relay power, and thermostat power. Like, if they are on vacation or something. Or in the summer when that heater isn't on at all.
If the nat gas space heater was newer, and had an on/off trigger (it's completely passive, no power at all), I could use the 'on' signal to turn on the relay in the kitchen, so that it would only work if there actually was heat in the living room.
Anyway, my confusing was on the normally open/closed and you hit the nail on the head with explaining that, i totally get it now. Thanks!
I plan on using these on my millivolt propane wall furnaces at my camp. I keep it on low heat during the week, sometimes I'm away for weeks. I currently heat with heat pumps and need the wall furnace for two things. 1) as additional heat in cold weather, controlled by a NEST tstat on the NO side, and 2) use a second regular millivolt thermostat on the NC circuit - always set at 50 degrees. When the power goes out and the heat pumps turn off, the wall furnace will automatically turn on via the regular millivolt thermostat.
Sounds interesting. Le me know how it goes!
hi, this is a very good video and very helpful for hvac technicians. it would be much appreciated if you can provide with a schematic diagram for this circuitry. thank you very much
Holy cow, I recently have been using these for nest thermostats. While I was told what wire to put where by my boss, I still don't understand how they work. Thanks a lot for this.
No problem!
We had several models of 1 & 2 pole so I got schematics off the net , glee them up and made several copies that I could easily read what color controls or connects with what without using my eyeglasses.
Thank you for such a clear video. Can I use this type of relay/setup to install a low voltage smart thermostat (e.g., Nest or Ecobee) to control a line voltage 2- or 4-pipe forced air system in my condo?
You make the best videos!! Love your channel
Currently trying to control a hood system. All power under the hood must shutdown, but the exhaust fan must kick on. Exhaust fan and light are same 120v circuit the range/oven is 240. Planning on using a shunt trip breaker for the range. Would the shunt trip breaker be considered my control device?
Hi, great video for the beginners! I’m trying to wire a circuit that controls two dampers that close when energized. I want to recreate an XOR logic - it’s ok when either damper is closed, but when both are closed, I want one of them to open up. This is part of my hvac system with three zones. When two dampers are closed, it creates too much pressure on the third zone as it is the smallest one, and I want the third zone to always run with 1 other zone. No such problem when the other 2 zones are running alone. I’m thinking to splice into damper 1’s white wire to energize the control, and then splice into damper 2’s red wire to the NC terminal. I’m thinking that when only damper 2 is energized, it’ll work. When damper 1 is energized it doesn’t matter because damper 2 remains open. When both dampers are energized, then it should force damper 2 to remain open.
I have a question - does it really matter in which order I connect the wires on each side of the relay? For example, can I connect the White/yellow wire first then then White/Blue (to 24v neutral)? Or does it have to be White/blue first, and then return with white/yellow?
Similarly, on the other side - can I connect the yellow to red wire before it reaches damper 2, then connect the blue wire to the damper? As in, it’s really just closing the loop, so it should t matter which way the loop is oriented?
man this helped me alot. Thanks bubba
No problem
Saw way too many lazy control & electricians wire the control power to either the NO or NC contact instead of the common. Makes it easier down the road to troubleshoot or add something to unused contact.
basically i have a 24volt magnetic switch when the cab doors open it is suppose to energize the 120v plug in the cabinet and when the 24v magnetic switch (cab doors close) is de energizes the 120v plug in cabinet
Hello! This is amazing info! I just wanted to ask you for clarification… I want to connect the damper (which is interlocked with my hood with a pressure switch), with a fan. When the damper opens I want the fan to run (well in reality I’d prefer to have a 3-5 seconds of delay but I can’t figure that out at all, so straight open would work too). Thank you again!
You should be able to make it work. You can work in a delay timer in the circuit to get that 3-5 sec delay you're looking for. so long as it's rated for the amps being used. Something along the lines of this:
www.supplyhouse.com/ICM-Controls-ICM175B-ICM175-Bypass-Timer-10-1000-Second-Knob-Adjust-Delay?msclkid=248b0950efce137585e66c02373aade9
Hi Mike
How to wire rib relay to my furnace blower for extra duct booster fan?
Best way to do it is to activate the RIB relay by taking power off of the furnace blower relay terminal on the control board that powers the blower motor, then running the other RIB relay wire back to neutral on the control board. That'll be a 120v activating circuit. This will turn on the booster fan and blower motor simultaneously.
Another way is to activate the RIB relay off of the low voltage terminals on the control board on a call for heat. You can't use the G terminal (which is for the blower) because on furnaces in heat mode the blower is time delayed until the furnace fully fires up, so the control board itself activates the blower. But you can use the W terminal as the 24v signal to activate the relay and then run the other RIB relay wire back to the 24v common terminal. Only thing is that the booster will start immediately on a call for heat a minute or two before the furnace blower comes on because of the time delay.
Question I have a boiler that heats 2 rooms there is a blower that is hooked to a circuit breaker so it on 24/7 ,,,,could I tap into the thermostat wires on the boiler then to the relay to power the fan when the thermostat calls for heat ?
Sure. Splice the blue/white and the yellow/white wires of the relay into the W wire off of the thermostat so the 24v runs through the relay on its way to the boiler. Then use the orange and yellow wires on the other side of the relay to break the 120v power leg of the blower, which will close and power the blower when the stat activates the relay on heat.
I followed your instructions,thank you! My low voltage thermostat is now controlling a 120v garage fan. However, now the thermostat is no longer calling for heat?! Any suggestions? Thanks!
How is it wired?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC the exact same way you showed in the video - white/blue is on the W port of the thermostat, white/yellow is connected to the white low voltage one that's coming from the zone valve. Red that's coming from the zone valve is on the R port of the thermostat.
@user-pt7gj4yc3l Red wires from the zone valve do not go to the thermostat. Those wires are for the burner circuit. They should not have been touched.
Would it work for a condenser, furnace, and smart thermostats?
It will work on anything 120v or 24 v.
How about using rib relay as a preference relay on an oil burner on boiler and oil burner for direct fired hwh.
Not sure what you mean. Like priority zoning?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Priority on burners like Hwh burner priority cuts power off the boiler burner so they don't run at same time usually it would starve out when both burners running at same time using an old buried tank
Maybe. You might be able to do something like have the aquastat wired into the relay as the control, heating boiler circuit on normally closed and hot water burner circuit on normallybopen.
Heating burners will run on stat until aquastat calls for heat, then the heating circuit will open and hot water circuit will operate on the normally open.
That's a pretty specific circumstances and is a cool way to use a relay. I recently saw a tech have to do this in a Facebook group. I'm assuming you saw that too! I think I'd use the 24volt aquastat call from the water heater to switch boiler from n/c to n/o
shouldnt the tv also turn on when you switch the thermostat on and tv turn off when thermostat goes off (why do you have to turn the tv on) i am using this application for a door switch in cabinet to turn the receptacle on and off
I was just using the TV as an example of how the relay can use low voltage circuits to control high voltage circuits. The TV not turning on automatically when powered is just a feature/setting of the TV itself.
lol this is awesome
For complete idiots like myself... could you explain the function of the transformer in this video? I've been trying to come up with a solution on how to turn an inline vent duct fan on and off when the oven or range turns on. I figured I'd need to monitor voltage of the 'hot burner' indicator light on the stove. When the light is on the exhaust fan comes on. When warning light on stovetop goes off the fan shuts off. Your video has got me so much closer to understanding the process.
The transformer just represents the beginning and end of the power source. In the video, it sends out 24 volts from load terminal and receives it back at common in the end to complete the circuit. An electrical breaker would work the same way. Sends power out on black and returns on white (neutral) to complete the circuit.
If you want the indicator light to be your control, then the wire feeding that light will be your power source.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC thanks! That helps! U da man!
I know this is a little late but I’m confused lol. When you used the normally open circuit (orange) on the 120v supply and the normally closed on the 120v power supply to tv, wouldn’t that mean that when the thermostat turns on it will activate the relay and turn on the orange wire / 120v supply but then turn off the power supply to the tv since that’s normally closed? I’m struggling with this one 😂
You only use normally open or normally closed. Not both. The third wire is a common wire for either one.
Nevermind lol. I was thinking you were using the blue for normally closed for the tv power supply but your not. Your using the common for the power supply to the tv so when the relay turns off it also turns off. If I have that correctly lol. I didn’t realize you could use the blue
(N/C) as a common wire. I guess that makes sense when you think about it. 😊
And thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I appreciate the help.
@@JerseyMikeHVACI’ve been replying to myself lol. Today is not my day
You saved my ass. Thank you.
You got it
Thank you for the video. Do you know if I can use this airflow switch to do the same thing without the RIB? It only has two wires, so I'm not sure. It appears that the airflow switch is the control device/wire. I would appreciate any advice you have on this. The airflow switch is here: chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/www.farnell.com/datasheets/3162383.pdf
Never a big fan of any switching device with such low power rating for contacts. Only 10 watts. Would burn out if used to power a motor starter. Would have to Eire contacts to power a relay coil just adding an another part that could cause problems..