It’s a good joint, but Jasbir is right. 75-100 years is the longest you usually get out of cast iron joints like that. It depends a lot on what the water content is. You gotta remember cast iron is the waste and people flush all kinds of corrosive crap down the drains. I was a plasterer in NYC and had to patch many ceilings and walls that had been chopped out for old corroded cast iron.
Should have twisted oakum and packed tighter. Also better to scrape off slag before pour. Still props for atleast knowing how to do this probably only about 10 percent of plumbers are capable of this these days.
My grandmas house was built in the early 50s. When i was a kid i went into the crawl space and found a lead disc maybe 2 inch by 4 inch. Didnt know what it was for at the time but later realized it was a lead ingot probably left by the plumbers many years prior
You have no idea my friend. Cast iron,, lead & oakum were the standards for drainage systems when I was in the journeyman stage learning the trade. Before there were "snap cutters" made by Ridgid,, we had to take a coal chisel tapping & scoring a line around that thick cast iron pipe until it would break. A lot of times the break wasn't even so you'd have to clean up the joint with a pipe wrench drawing it in just enough to grasp the inside of the pipe snapping off the uneven pieces that jutted out. The standard still in my area in the mid '60's for water piping was galvanized steel piping that came in 21' lengths that you'd have to set up in a vise & a stand,, cut it with a really heavy pipe cutter close to 24" long,, then thread each end so the machined fitting you bought would hopefully screw on to almost perfection. You had to "oil the dyes" repeatedly generally taking two men,, one to crank/turn the dye & the other squirting machine oil into the threading dye to make sure the dyes didn't burn up due to the intense heat the threading process undertook. Yeah,, compared to today's methods of thermal plastics being used for most applications,, the old methodology would be considered "a work of art" today. Perhaps some of the old timers reading this might even remember a sewage line product by the name of "orangeburg piping" that might be one of the worst products ever introduced to the plumbing profession. It was a fiber pipe used underground for sewer lines that would egg out after time & the joints were like feeding farms for attracting tree roots to grow into them. We'd hand dig that stuff up & to our chagrin & the homeowner's alike,,, have to tell them they truly needed to replace that junk or we could make a wholesale repair on it that might last a couple seasons at best,, until the roots grew back into it with added gusto. We should all be thankful for technology & the evolutions of trade work. It's doubtful too many of today's tradesmen would enjoy or even do plumbing with it's difficulty of yesterday. One plus? Your forearms developed like Popeye's. I could out arm wrestle guys twice my size due to the continuous turning of those dyes & cutting tools. Even at my old age,, I still have ripples in my forearms. Sorry about the long dissertation,, this just brings back fond memories & I could write for a very long time on what was compared to what is today.
So the oakum creates a watertight seal, water inside pipe only touches the oakum made from hemp fibers, the water does not touch lead, lead keeps joint & oakum in place. Is that correct?
I started plumbing in 2020 so this blew my mind hahaha never seen it done 😀 so cool! My question is… how did they do it on the horizontal without it falling out?
Used whats called a running rope, u pack ur oakum in then put the rope around, and theres a small hole at the top u pour into and it keeps the lead from leaking out
How do you remove the joint, do you have to heat it up to melt the lead? If the joint is already loose can i keep wiggling it and it'll come apart? Thanks our house was built in 1967.
I've seen where people cut the pipe down flush and then use an appropriate hole saw bit to drill out the lead. Never tried it, but seems to work well from what I've seen.
The slag needs to be removed. The cleaner the joint the better the joint. That crust is dirt and other contaminates that found its way in during the manufactures smelting and casting process and the re- melting process. It cannot be use for anything, so just skim it off and make sure it stays out of your joints. It takes two second to skim off the garbage.
I watched some videos of this and most people remove the slag but someone said that you don't need to because the slag is going to stay in the ladle when you pour.
No actual knowledge about this. But it’s probably to set the lead. Squishing it after it solidifies probably makes a better seal. It’s like setting rivets I would guess
I would think because cast molds set perfectly into the mold that tapping it would just loosen it up actually and create a worse seal over time. Thanks for the input though.. I just don’t believe that would make any difference.
@@HeinekenSkywalker636 I'm not experienced in this exact method but I do know the consistency of molten lead. I think tapping the lead would help it seal to the oakum and in between the two pipes due to the shape of the couple.
Oakum packs the joint to help create a water tight seal. When the oakum gets wet, it expands. The lead just locks it into place and keeps the joint from moving. Moving the joint causes leaks.
Running rope (or a joint runner, as I call it) is a rope with a spring loaded clamp that's wrapped around the pipe next to the hub of the joint. The rope is made with fire proof materials (the old ones were made with asbestos) to keep the rope from catching fire. The clamp holds the rope in place and keeps the lead from spilling out of the joint while you're pouring the lead into the gap you made with the rope. You can even use it for upside-down joints.
@@TheWhiteGuy82 ...Saw a video on it not long ago. They do a fiber cord wrap with an opening at the top. Pour and remove the wrap when the lead sets. Pretty neat.
@@TheWhiteGuy82 Horizontal joints were done all the time. Look up a tool called a "lead joint runner". It was an asbestos rope that was wrapped around a horizontal pipe and clamped at the top. It would be pushed up tight against the joint. It created a dam around the joint with a hole at the top so the lead could be poured in.
On a horizontal joint you would use a spring tension rope. Anybody know what tool that is. 40yr. licensed unionized plumber retired. Good luck everyone.
That motherfucking joint going last 1000 years what a master good job
Not as long lasting as you think I'm a city plumber and most joints only last 75ish years
It’s a good joint, but Jasbir is right. 75-100 years is the longest you usually get out of cast iron joints like that. It depends a lot on what the water content is. You gotta remember cast iron is the waste and people flush all kinds of corrosive crap down the drains. I was a plasterer in NYC and had to patch many ceilings and walls that had been chopped out for old corroded cast iron.
Joint will outlast the pipe
Should have twisted oakum and packed tighter. Also better to scrape off slag before pour. Still props for atleast knowing how to do this probably only about 10 percent of plumbers are capable of this these days.
My grandmas house was built in the early 50s. When i was a kid i went into the crawl space and found a lead disc maybe 2 inch by 4 inch. Didnt know what it was for at the time but later realized it was a lead ingot probably left by the plumbers many years prior
Easy when you do it in your back yard, try doing that in a wall in-between floors.
Or under a house
I am a union steamfitter by trade ,but I helped a plumber make a lead and oakim joint in 79 .Larry Ragsdale L.U 525 Las Vegas
Ah how i miss that smell from plumbing shop class at Alfred E Smith vocational High School in the Bronx NY
Nice I went to Grady but it wasn’t enough people for plumbing
Wow. A guy that actually knows what he is doing 👍🏼
Just put in one the other day on a mop sink drain out at Disney so bad ass how these older plumbers did thing back in the day
You have to give it to the older plumbers. They worked there asses off
You have no idea my friend. Cast iron,, lead & oakum were the standards for drainage systems when I was in the journeyman stage learning the trade. Before there were "snap cutters" made by Ridgid,, we had to take a coal chisel tapping & scoring a line around that thick cast iron pipe until it would break. A lot of times the break wasn't even so you'd have to clean up the joint with a pipe wrench drawing it in just enough to grasp the inside of the pipe snapping off the uneven pieces that jutted out. The standard still in my area in the mid '60's for water piping was galvanized steel piping that came in 21' lengths that you'd have to set up in a vise & a stand,, cut it with a really heavy pipe cutter close to 24" long,, then thread each end so the machined fitting you bought would hopefully screw on to almost perfection. You had to "oil the dyes" repeatedly generally taking two men,, one to crank/turn the dye & the other squirting machine oil into the threading dye to make sure the dyes didn't burn up due to the intense heat the threading process undertook.
Yeah,, compared to today's methods of thermal plastics being used for most applications,, the old methodology would be considered "a work of art" today.
Perhaps some of the old timers reading this might even remember a sewage line product by the name of "orangeburg piping" that might be one of the worst products ever introduced to the plumbing profession. It was a fiber pipe used underground for sewer lines that would egg out after time & the joints were like feeding farms for attracting tree roots to grow into them. We'd hand dig that stuff up & to our chagrin & the homeowner's alike,,, have to tell them they truly needed to replace that junk or we could make a wholesale repair on it that might last a couple seasons at best,, until the roots grew back into it with added gusto.
We should all be thankful for technology & the evolutions of trade work. It's doubtful too many of today's tradesmen would enjoy or even do plumbing with it's difficulty of yesterday.
One plus? Your forearms developed like Popeye's. I could out arm wrestle guys twice my size due to the continuous turning of those dyes & cutting tools. Even at my old age,, I still have ripples in my forearms. Sorry about the long dissertation,, this just brings back fond memories & I could write for a very long time on what was compared to what is today.
lawll, what a funny way of joining cast iron pipes, i will learn to appreciate my mj bands more
I kinda trust this more than no hubs but this definitely would take ALOT longer
Good work
I think the oakum is better when waxed or some oil based product gives it more rot resistance.
Just beautiful
So the oakum creates a watertight seal, water inside pipe only touches the oakum made from hemp fibers, the water does not touch lead, lead keeps joint & oakum in place. Is that correct?
This technique is used on sewer pipes, not freshwater pipes. Doesn't matter if the lead leeches through a bit over time.
I started plumbing in 2020 so this blew my mind hahaha never seen it done 😀 so cool! My question is… how did they do it on the horizontal without it falling out?
Used whats called a running rope, u pack ur oakum in then put the rope around, and theres a small hole at the top u pour into and it keeps the lead from leaking out
You dont have to melt the lead into the joint...
А распечатывать кувалдой трубу пополам? Как залить свинец в горизонтальную трубу?
Whats the point of tapping it at the end?
Why do they tap the joint at the end?
How do you remove the joint, do you have to heat it up to melt the lead? If the joint is already loose can i keep wiggling it and it'll come apart? Thanks our house was built in 1967.
I've seen where people cut the pipe down flush and then use an appropriate hole saw bit to drill out the lead. Never tried it, but seems to work well from what I've seen.
How is it done on a 90 though????
How come u didnt remove the slag in the lead before pouring the joint?
I think because it didn't affect the pour, also helps keep it liquified.
The slag needs to be removed. The cleaner the joint the better the joint. That crust is dirt and other contaminates that found its way in during the manufactures smelting and casting process and the re- melting process. It cannot be use for anything, so just skim it off and make sure it stays out of your joints. It takes two second to skim off the garbage.
I agree . But it looks like he poured it while the dross stayed on top .
I watched some videos of this and most people remove the slag but someone said that you don't need to because the slag is going to stay in the ladle when you pour.
Ah so I thought it was a deadlock from Jamaica earlier when I was at ace hardware
Do you always have to tap the lead after it’s poured and solidifies?
No actual knowledge about this. But it’s probably to set the lead. Squishing it after it solidifies probably makes a better seal. It’s like setting rivets I would guess
I would think because cast molds set perfectly into the mold that tapping it would just loosen it up actually and create a worse seal over time. Thanks for the input though.. I just don’t believe that would make any difference.
The oakum is there to stop the leak. It absorbs water and it expands once wet. The lead is there to keep the oakum sealed
You are 100% correct. Breaking the bond and causing the tooth and groove complex to not set
@@HeinekenSkywalker636 I'm not experienced in this exact method but I do know the consistency of molten lead. I think tapping the lead would help it seal to the oakum and in between the two pipes due to the shape of the couple.
What purpose does the oakum serve?
Oakum packs the joint to help create a water tight seal. When the oakum gets wet, it expands. The lead just locks it into place and keeps the joint from moving. Moving the joint causes leaks.
To keep the lead from running down the pipe
Noob question here but are lead oakum joints still code compliant in USA?for residential?
I would say no because of the lead-free compliance law.
@@Raysystemic in some places they are required
@@ABVollen really? They did not even mention this method whenever I got my license nor in continuing ed. What would they be required for?
Some city codes. Chicago for example.
Philadelphia still uses lead and oakum underground but we are slowly evolving into the rubber push gaskets or enfusion types of plastics like enfield.
Ya what if the pipe is horizontal
we use a “running rope”
What’s running rope .... never herd that
Running rope (or a joint runner, as I call it) is a rope with a spring loaded clamp that's wrapped around the pipe next to the hub of the joint. The rope is made with fire proof materials (the old ones were made with asbestos) to keep the rope from catching fire. The clamp holds the rope in place and keeps the lead from spilling out of the joint while you're pouring the lead into the gap you made with the rope. You can even use it for upside-down joints.
@@andrewwelch5668 do you have to dip the runner in oil ?
Neat. Would like to see a horizontal run joined.
I imagine its not possible. They would simply do any horizontal joints away from where it's going to be set so they could pour it vertically.
@@TheWhiteGuy82 ...Saw a video on it not long ago. They do a fiber cord wrap with an opening at the top. Pour and remove the wrap when the lead sets. Pretty neat.
@@TheWhiteGuy82 Horizontal joints were done all the time. Look up a tool called a "lead joint runner". It was an asbestos rope that was wrapped around a horizontal pipe and clamped at the top. It would be pushed up tight against the joint. It created a dam around the joint with a hole at the top so the lead could be poured in.
On a horizontal joint you would use a spring tension rope. Anybody know what tool that is. 40yr. licensed unionized plumber retired. Good luck everyone.
Josiah Hanna actually it was horse hair
What is the tapping for_
Caulking it
It keeps the lead locked in witch makes the oaken stay in place
any reason to be using cast iron today?
It’s stronger, it’ll last longer , and it’s more quieter than plastic
required by code in certain applications.,
legally required for city of chicago
Bludika it’s not flammable fire can’t use it to spread through out a building
in my state you must use in commercial buildings...no pvc or abs..
dude I love oakum,
clean the slag off!!!!
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