Need a video showing the 1589 replacement, coil upgrade to 40,000 v how does this work. Do you need to regap the plugs from 30 to 50 ? What do ya think ? Cutting out internal wire resistor white wire to coil. Changing coil to 3 ohm.
On closed cooling stern drive boats if you put to much concentrated antifreeze in will it overheat? All passages are clean new pump risers manifolds but temp is 170 this year ntead of 160. Stat is new too. 80 ocean. Thta`s the only thing i can think of. Also guage and sensor new too.
Yes this is very possible. What mix of coolant/water are you running? Unless your climate is very cold I usually do 50/50 (concentrate to distilled water)
@@ZentRose 48% checked with refractor. All ther parts checked in the boat. Is there any way the metal impeller went bad on engine? Sea water imp. new mayby cavatation. running 160 but then 180 at 3100 rpm
What about no water coming in from the outside to the impeller I was told that because my boat has sat in the water for 3 1/2 months and used it has Zebra mussels plugging the inlet. Any way to show video on was also mine is in the water and can’t be removed for a few more months so what your advice on this
I took mine out last weekend and after a couple days on the water I believe that cap came loose and it would start to get warm at low idle. After coming home I found that water was coming out of that cap cuz it wasn't tight. Need to go back to the lake and make sure that's all it was
Probably a stupid question but, I have a VP 4.3l GL-A with a similar raw water pump setup.. I replaced my alternator belt and I think I crossed the hoses that connect to the pump housing.. one of them comes from the back of the motor (which I assume is the water intake hose) and the other hose goes up to the thermostat housing and connects in the middle like on yours in this video...how do I know which one of those hoses connects to where on the impeller housing? I think the upper housing inlet is the IN and the lower inlet on the housing is OUT but I'm not totally sure... my manual doesn't really say.
Man I got some weird stuff going on with my chris. Took her out yesterday, port side motor got hot but only one side of the motor was hot. Other side was cool ad a cucumber any thoughts ?
I have a 351 windsor omc that is over heating. It's getting water through it and comes out good. But gets hot as hell. When I turn it off after a few minutes i can hear everything all boiling. Engine bogs under load and dies 90 percent of the time. I've rebuilt the carb, pulled the whole thermostat out, new plugs, new distributor, new ignition coil and still don't want to run. It's timed at 8 degrees btdc. And the carb I tuned fairly well. Anyone have issues like this?
Great Video.... I have an overheating issue with my Volvo Penta 5.7 OSXi-G but it is weird!! I start the engine and I have no problem, I run the engine for about 15 mins at around 1K RPM (in the canal where I live) no problem. When I get to the bay and then I run the engine at 3.5-4.0K RPM for 20 minutes (to cross the Key Biscayne Bay), no problem. But a soon as I bring the RPMs back to 1K, the engine starts to overheat and the alarm goes off. The only way to reduce the overheat of the engine is to go back to 3k-4K RMP, which it can be done on the throttle on idle or running the boat over 3k RPM. We have changed the water pump, the impeller, thermostat, etc. we still have the same issue. Any ideas?
Thanks for the video! I'm looking at purchasing a boat with a 5.0 Volvo Penta. What is the hose that your referencing used for? (the one that can introduce air and cause the overheating) Also, the motor that Im looking at has two risers but the two mall hoses or connections on the backside seem to be taped back on. Do you happen to know what does are used for?
From when I was a mechanic, this would be no more than $500 from diagnosis to fix (labor and parts). I have heard things have gotten a lot more expensive these days so I might be underestimating.
This is a great video! I never had any overheating, then I did a preventative maintenance and had a mobile marine mechanic put a new impeller in my 1990 Sport Nautique. Now it overheated instantly on the first ride out. He’s trying to tell me my thermostat is bad (via text). I find it very hard to believe that my thermostat all of a sudden is bad the moment he messed with my cooling components. Any advice?
Marine on this one. The one in there lasted 15 years. Auto might be fine but I also wouldn't want to lose time on the lake in case it doesn't work out.
This video had potential to be much better from an instructional point of view right until the end. That’s when you said “install it” instead of showing installation. If I already knew how to do that, I wouldn’t be watching this video!
Just got ahead and change out the raw water impeller. If sitting for months a time the veins curve and lose the seal against the housing wall. Cheap enough
Can you provide a link(s) for the parts? Thanks!
Tough to beat the sound of a nice smooth running inboard.
Bought me an 86 bayliner contessa. Engine overheating. Guess I'm gonna be learning about engines soon.
Need a video showing the 1589 replacement, coil upgrade to 40,000 v how does this work. Do you need to regap the plugs from 30 to 50 ? What do ya think ? Cutting out internal wire resistor white wire to coil. Changing coil to 3 ohm.
What if you impeller is leaking water really slow Is that ok ?
On closed cooling stern drive boats if you put to much concentrated antifreeze in will it overheat? All passages are clean new pump risers manifolds but temp is 170 this year ntead of 160. Stat is new too. 80 ocean. Thta`s the only thing i can think of. Also guage and sensor new too.
Yes this is very possible. What mix of coolant/water are you running? Unless your climate is very cold I usually do 50/50 (concentrate to distilled water)
@@ZentRose 48% checked with refractor. All ther parts checked in the boat. Is there any way the metal impeller went bad on engine? Sea water imp. new mayby cavatation. running 160 but then 180 at 3100 rpm
What about no water coming in from the outside to the impeller I was told that because my boat has sat in the water for 3 1/2 months and used it has Zebra mussels plugging the inlet. Any way to show video on was also mine is in the water and can’t be removed for a few more months so what your advice on this
Hey Zent, great video. I have a volvo penta 5.7 and it is giving me a high temp reading with the beeping. It is very frustrating.
How do I purge the air out of my cooling system?
How many bolts hold the housing and where are they located
I took mine out last weekend and after a couple days on the water I believe that cap came loose and it would start to get warm at low idle. After coming home I found that water was coming out of that cap cuz it wasn't tight. Need to go back to the lake and make sure that's all it was
Probably a stupid question but, I have a VP 4.3l GL-A with a similar raw water pump setup.. I replaced my alternator belt and I think I crossed the hoses that connect to the pump housing.. one of them comes from the back of the motor (which I assume is the water intake hose) and the other hose goes up to the thermostat housing and connects in the middle like on yours in this video...how do I know which one of those hoses connects to where on the impeller housing? I think the upper housing inlet is the IN and the lower inlet on the housing is OUT but I'm not totally sure... my manual doesn't really say.
Man I got some weird stuff going on with my chris. Took her out yesterday, port side motor got hot but only one side of the motor was hot. Other side was cool ad a cucumber any thoughts ?
Hi quick question, do you have to empty the coolant on a Volvo to change the thermostat? thanks
I have a 351 windsor omc that is over heating. It's getting water through it and comes out good. But gets hot as hell. When I turn it off after a few minutes i can hear everything all boiling. Engine bogs under load and dies 90 percent of the time. I've rebuilt the carb, pulled the whole thermostat out, new plugs, new distributor, new ignition coil and still don't want to run. It's timed at 8 degrees btdc. And the carb I tuned fairly well. Anyone have issues like this?
Great Video.... I have an overheating issue with my Volvo Penta 5.7 OSXi-G but it is weird!! I start the engine and I have no problem, I run the engine for about 15 mins at around 1K RPM (in the canal where I live) no problem. When I get to the bay and then I run the engine at 3.5-4.0K RPM for 20 minutes (to cross the Key Biscayne Bay), no problem. But a soon as I bring the RPMs back to 1K, the engine starts to overheat and the alarm goes off. The only way to reduce the overheat of the engine is to go back to 3k-4K RMP, which it can be done on the throttle on idle or running the boat over 3k RPM. We have changed the water pump, the impeller, thermostat, etc. we still have the same issue. Any ideas?
Thanks for the video! I'm looking at purchasing a boat with a 5.0 Volvo Penta. What is the hose that your referencing used for? (the one that can introduce air and cause the overheating) Also, the motor that Im looking at has two risers but the two mall hoses or connections on the backside seem to be taped back on. Do you happen to know what does are used for?
Do you have to replace the thermostat housing or can you your the old one? Thanks
I have the same boat engine. What would be the estimate to fix this issue? My boat started over heating last weekend. Thanks
From when I was a mechanic, this would be no more than $500 from diagnosis to fix (labor and parts). I have heard things have gotten a lot more expensive these days so I might be underestimating.
This is a great video! I never had any overheating, then I did a preventative maintenance and had a mobile marine mechanic put a new impeller in my 1990 Sport Nautique. Now it overheated instantly on the first ride out. He’s trying to tell me my thermostat is bad (via text). I find it very hard to believe that my thermostat all of a sudden is bad the moment he messed with my cooling components. Any advice?
He might be right. That’s what happened to me. I’ve rarely seen them go bad in freshwater boats.. but mine was rusted shut. Easy to replace at least
Don’t see the link for the manual?
It is in the video description
Curious, did you use a marine t-stat or automotive? For freshwater use, I don't see a prob with auto t-stat but I have heard many opinions. Thx!
Marine on this one. The one in there lasted 15 years. Auto might be fine but I also wouldn't want to lose time on the lake in case it doesn't work out.
Great video!
thanks
@@ZentRose 1
Appreciate you
Thanks brotha. Enjoy your boat!
How are is your portfolio doing ?
Great! Bought real estate in orange county back in may
This video had potential to be much better from an instructional point of view right until the end. That’s when you said “install it” instead of showing installation. If I already knew how to do that, I wouldn’t be watching this video!
Just got ahead and change out the raw water impeller. If sitting for months a time the veins curve and lose the seal against the housing wall. Cheap enough
Tood Anderson Impeller gets changed every annual. If an impeller went bad in a few months we’d all be in trouble 😂