Gearbox Double Trouble! Disassembling the First Box
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- This short series involves a couple of Triumph Spitfire overdrive gearboxes. Rebuilding these been covered in another video on the channel... but both of these had been sitting in a shed for at least a decade, so we're not sure they're even rebuildable! While I'm writing this, I haven't reassembled or tested either gearbox yet... so your guess is as good as mine. Like and subscribe, and let us know about your gearbox horror stories in the comments below!
These are excellent videos. Even though I have a 1981 Mercedes 240d as my daily driver and a 1964 Ford f250 mechanic videos in general are useful.
Glad you like them! I've been getting tons of questions from Merc people lately. Maybe I should learn more about the differences and do a few helpful videos for you guys one of these days....
Hello, I have been following your channel as a subscriber for a few weeks now. I just bought a 1971 Triumph TR6. I've been online getting some ideas about the upkeep of the TR6. I am interested in how you came to know how to work on the transmission of these Spitfires? Also, I wanted to compliment you on how you edit your videos. You do a great job of editing out the routine part but keep enough in there so we can follow what's going on. Thanks, Randy Gibson
Hi Randy, and thanks for the feedback. Honestly, it's pretty boring. The first few times I do a task I just follow the steps in a shop manual, possibly with a trip or two to the hardware store if I need a certain size socket or a more efficient pair of pliers. As for tips and tricks like getting the circlip off, that's just down to doing it more than once. The first time probably took an hour of swearing, but the next time I can just repeat what worked.
I got the British sports car bug when I was in high school, and have owned a dozen or more since then. Very rarely is one in great shape when I buy it. At the time, I couldn't afford to pay people to fix them, so I bought some tools and had to learn to do it myself. Trust me--I've made my fair share of mistakes!
What I DO highly recommend is joining your local club and going to the tech sessions. I belong to the Illinois Sports Owners Association (I'm actually the president nowadays), and got to see a lot of this stuff done in person over the years. As a bonus, the club has drives and socials... so I get to put the cars to use and hang out with like minded people!
Also (and I think I poke fun at other youtubers in one of my videos), the editing is helped greatly because I own... a tripod! I've actually gotten motion sick from watching some other channels, great as the content may be....
@@midwestmotoring Thanks for the tips. I did join the Georgia Triumph Association. It only $30 per year. I'm sure it will be well worth that. Question - I was working on my TR6 yesterday. I noticed that the fuel line comes up from below the car and then drapes over the top of the engine(actually lays on the valve cover) and into the carbs. This can't be correct. Can you give me an idea how to correctly route the fuel line? Thanks
Depending on how I'm reading your description, yes, that actually could be correct. The fuel line goes to the pump (obviously), and from there goes forward along the left side of the engine. It bends upwards to go over the alternator, gets held by a clip attached to the water pump bolt, and connects by a short piece of rubber fuel line to the pipes going to the carburetors. It shouldn't technically be laying on the valve cover, but it is pretty close to it in a few spots.
Regarding Transmission oil, for Volvo 1800s with a similar gearbox and the Type D OD it is specified using 30W motor oil - non detergent due to the requirements of the OD that shares the same reservoir. Without OD the same gearbox uses an SAE 80/90 oil.
The 30W is a requirement for the Laycock OD so I am surprised these Triumph gearbox/OD combinations are not the same.
Actually, the viscosities of those oils are on different scales. Straight 30W motor oil is in reality similar to an 80W or 85W in gear oil. The differences are in the makeup of the oils. Both of them lubricate stuff, but engine oil is formulated more to remove combustion byproducts while gear oils are formulated for high pressure "rubbing" (not sure that's the correct term) of the gears. Triumph's shop manuals for older cars actually did suggest 30W oil in an overdrive gearbox, then later switched to the gear oil specification. Neither oil will hurt the overdrive, but since it's shared with the transmission the spec was most likely chosen based on the gearbox side and what sort of application it's in. I'd love more info if anyone has any to offer.
Midwest Motoring I can see that certainly in the late eighties Volvo dealers were prone to going with 90W which pissed them off when I specifically said 30W Non detergent and on more then one occasion I was in to have them drain, flush and refill on the house as I don’t believe the Swedes ever changed the spec.
By the way I’m looking for a TR4 project, love the boxy Triumph look without being dated and any hood with a bulge has to be worth 10-20 Hp extra.
As an aside there is a fifteen dollar flat faced snap ring pliers that makes dealing with that pesky little one, a heck of a lot less of a pain. Make sure the one you get has knurling on the faces for grip as the snap ring will torque as it’s spread apart.
Why do you think I bought a GT6? It's all about the power bulge! Good call on the snap ring pliers. I actually own a set but couldn't find them at the time.
Great video!
Thanks!
I'm just about to put my rebuilt trans back in my Spit. If it doesn't work I know where I'm sending it :D. Fingers crossed!
I always recommend spinning it up to test it before reinstalling it. Better for it to break on a workbench than after putting it back together in the car! You can use a 1/2 inch drill in reverse if you've got one, or else I've got a test stand video somewhere too.
Good luck!
I''d still hold on to that 2nd gear tophat bush (UKC933?) I can't find any anywhere and have been looking for a while!
Definitely holding onto it. I've got a spare 2nd gear that's actually compatible with the bush, so it could come in handy later!
Awesome vids thank you! I bought a tranny from a shop, they said it shifted fine which it does but while im in 3rd gear and when I either excellerate or decelerate the gear shifter moves back and forth. Do you think someone left out the washers or put the wrong top hat bush in it?
If it stays in gear, I wouldn't worry about it too much, but more likely you've got wear in the shift linkage. That literally disintegrates and comes apart. The springs holding the shift rails may also be getting weak.
Will this be similar to a tr-6 j type o/d ?
Yeah, it's not too terribly different. The biggest changes will be that a TR6 box comes apart more. So the layshaft is several pieces, for example. The bell housing will not come off, so it's a little harder to reach things up at the front and you'll need longer pullers. That sort of thing. It's all detail changes, but the gearboxes work the same way.
Synchros
The ones you can buy today are decent again. There was a problem with them in the past not being round.