The biggest thing I alwase wonder about is how often suspension impacts are fast enough to overcome the wheel speed and cause pedal kickback. Kickback can clearly be seen when the rear wheel is not moving, and the bike is dropped. Howevwer when the rear wheel is rolling fast downhill, you would need a super fast impact for the chain to grow faster than the wheel is spinning and actually crate tension on the cranks. Something like this would probably be most noticeable in the suspension feel when the rear wheel is locked up or close to it skidding through steep tech. Having the play in the freehub is a much better solution than something like o chain because while Ochain separates the cranks from the system, you still have the inertia of the cassette, chain, and chainring, slowing down the suspension ever so slightly in these unique situations. Regardless, I think this is an excellent design. A lesser talked about problem which is also done nicely on this hub is the bearing bracing. Many hubs (most noably i9) have the driveside bearing very inwered into the hub causing extreme stress and unwanted flex / deflection and premature alxle/ bearing wear. This hub has a load bearing on the freehub outside of the ratcheting mechanism as close to the cassette as possible, and the frehub body is directly reinforced with its bearing under that one, creating one of the widest bracing angles. this creates a more consistent hub feel and allows you to tune wheel flex more symmetrically with spokes and rim design. It's not unique to this hub, but definitely one of the best designs.
@@maxwellduff4958 I fail to understand your logic. You claim that this hub is better than ochain because ochain doesn't solve rear end components' inertia. But this hub doesn't solve this either as you still need a cassette, chain etc. Actually it is making it worse compared to ochain as this hub is heavier than a standard hub and that extra weight is all unsprung weight whereas ochain added weight is sprung weight, positioned at the center of the bike. To me the hub solution is inferior to ochain because of this. I can see two advantages to the hub design, first it might need less maintenance if it proves to be reliable, second it has more degree of freedom than the ochain max setting so if you have a bike with very high pedalkick ochain could reach its limit. Now I am with you on pedalkick, theoretically you shouldn't be able to feel it however big of a PK you frame has as long as you ride fast enough to keep freewheeling. But so many people (journalists, WC riders and riders) seem to swear by it that it must be doing something right. Hopefully one day somebody comes with a proper testing setup and can show/explain what actually happens.
If you are riding slower, the hits are slower, but the hub is slower too. So for the same hit the relative speed will probably be the same. If you are going 20km/h, a 29er will do about 2 rotations per second. A 60mm freewheel will have a speed 0f 0.4m/s at the circumference. To get the speed of a hit is a bit more complicated and very dependent on the type of hit, but i think it is easy to see it will be more than 0.4m/s. Plus you have to take the cog into consideration because it influences the rate at which the cassette can catch up with the freewheel.
@@gg4760-k5n what he means with inertia from the cassette is not the unsprung weight, but the rotating inertia from the cassette. With o chain the cassette still rotates on a hit and thats causing chain tension between the cassette and the chainring, you may not feel the tension (kickback) because the cranks are "isolated" from it but the tension still affects the suspension. The sidekick hub solves this problem because the cassette won't start rotating till the 12/15/18° are used up, which results in no tension on the chain and no interference on the suspension
@@clemenshofbauer5740 if the cassette amd chain don't affect the crank that also means there is no resistance to their movements which also means it cannot influence suspension. Chain effect relies on chain tension between the cassette and the crank. Think about it this way, if you pump you bike at very low speed, slow enough that pedalkick is a thing and it engages your normal hub. If you keep your feet on the cranks you will be able to accelerate your bike from pumping. Do the same but don't have your feet on the pedals. Now for each pump your cranks will move slightly but you won't create any speed as the chain effect is now wasted since there is no resistance at the other end of the system. Whether you cancel the tension from the wheel side or the crank side doesn't matter as long as chain tension is not created.
Instead of subjective “tests” can we please have a proper complete test rig to prove this stuff? Build a rig to remove that subjectivity and other rider variables.
A test rig can only test what you build it to test. It can never fully simulate real life. May be interesting but real life test will always be less quantitative but better.
@@maxwellduff4958while I agree that complexity is a driver for real life testing rather than lab, relying only on subjective assessment is basically level 0 of proof. Considering how strong contextual effects can be you could make things actually worth and have people swearing it is an improvement. So yeah, real life testing with shit loads of sensors to objectively assess suspension performance is what should be done. Short of that lab testing is second and people testing and reviewing a distant third.
A test rig is a lab test and not a system test, it has to be a system test with quantifiable results... Time has onna DH bike is the most important thing.
Both side of this debate has merits. However it would intriguing to see quantifiable numbers in fixed test rig. This would eliminate the placebo effect, rider/brand biases, rider style etc. Perhaps have a setup that holds the bike frame completely rigid then attach a nm force gauge to the crank arms and while in a neutral (parallel to the ground) riding position. Then have a piston push up on the rear swing arm axle bolt at various fixed (slow med fast) speeds to measure the amount of nm transferred to the peddles at each speed. Also, another test could be to hold the peddles in a completely static rigid position, repeat the test and measure the amount of rotations the rear wheel would turn forward (if at all) in the various degree options the hub offers. Both tests conducted without the rear shock attached of course. Just a suggestion this riders would be very intrigued to see happen Vital/E-thirteen
Interesting! Have you guy tried sidekick and O-chain together and then try sidekick on high pivot bike and see what it's like. Would be cool to review them!
I would not say that I am feeling the pedal kickback itself. But I can feel the suspension stiffens under braking. If this hub solves the stiffening, so it is worth it.
Back to Back testing makes a lot of sense but you actually tested 29er DT Swiss vs. 27/Mullet with Sidekick 😆. Especially when describing the difference in cornering this could be likely related to a different tire size. Hard to say if it was really the hub or tire size or maybe a combination of both. After all cool to see that different players coming in to address this topic since it is real - I never noticed it before really but when riding a high-pivot bike for some time and then going back I noticed that there is really a huge difference - especially when riding flats.
Seems like a better solution that a zero chain chainring to me, also something amplified by high-engagement hubs which isn’t really beneficial on downhill oriented bikes
@@adamtousek7622 well, that is indeed a good point. Riding with music or earplugs maybe? But i would agree that, well for me at least, losing my hearing would most likely affect my riding.
seems they just added parts and a "new tech" to a low engagement hub, which would NOT have pedal kickback. 12'-15' isn't going to give kickback anyway...lots of space for the pawls to move before that happens...
Love the innovation and engineering...but only 3 pawls? My Eeb will destroy that hub in less than a year, as It has three other hubs. Gotta start building stronger hubs for Eebs.
Looks great but the tool-free ajustment isnt the selling point he is trying to make it xD Its not like this is the shit you change while out riding, you do this at home on the workbench and you have tools available. If it can be made simpler or more robust without "tool free ajustment" that would be better.
I don't think this "float" adjustment is something that you keep playing with. I think you find the setting that works for your bike and move on with life.
mtbers will do anything to avoid putting an awful freecoaster bmx hub on their bike. i guess the bigger question is, is the high engagement setting gonna be looked at by trials type guys or is still lower engagement than some of the 'best' hubs on market...
Have you ever ridden a free coaster ? They aren’t awful, there’s many different types from planetary hubs to the profile Z coaster which is a casset and coaster … planetary hubs are instant engagement as long as you pedal faster than the wheel speed, other than that it’s a free coaster
What works for DH doesn't necessarily work for other branches of MTB. I'd never, ever buy one of those hubs for trail riding and I don't accept anything less then 36 POE (which is still too little for decent feel).
How about putting this to a real test alongside O-Chain and a really low engagement hub? Grab a high pivot bike. A real high pivot, not one of the many mid pivot idler equipped ones. Then remove the idler, shorten the chain and use that as a testbed. What we're all really interested about isn't if this works to a degree, but rather if the Ochain and this hub present any perceivable benefits over a low engagement hub.
actually you should use a mid pivot bike. Proper high pivot bike will create a lot more kickback than the 12° allowed by the ochain so it wouldn't be faire and it would be putting some gear out of its scope. Kinda like testing a XC tire on a DH rig and conclude it is garbage ... well yeah, duh ! Other than that I would agree with you, and use telemetry system to see if there is any actual improvements aside from contextual effects aka placebo.
Trying to compare the way two hubs feel by putting them on different size wheels is the most stupid shit I have seen in MTB this year. You might as well ride two different bikes while you're at it...
I don’t understand why the last five or six years rear hubs have become such a focus, it seems like every company has to have their own special rear hub to separate it from the rest
He did discuss that while sitting in the field and it made sense to me. With a low engagement hub, there will still be times when your pawls are right on the cusp of being engaged so would still have moments of pedal kickback.
If durability pans out, then this is the type of forward thinking I can embrace -- a legit advancement in performance, and not more of the incremental gains marketed as "groundbreaking" and unnecessarily inflating bike prices.
if you take that pawl you will also get infinite degree of engagement, meaning that you would always be freecoasting. That pawl is what brings the other three into the outer ring.
@@EnjoyTheRideMTB Runs silent and and absorbing kick back by disengagement is exactly what my BMX freecoaster would do. The free coasting action is what would prevent the kick back no?
@@PabloGonzalez-hv3td I don’t know how free coasters work usually, but on the hub presented here, if you take away the pawl, it simply won’t work anymore. The "timing" pawl and the engaging pawls are mounted on the same axis, so if there is no timing pawl, this design will never know when to engage and you would always be free coasting. I am not sure we can call it free coasting here as it starts to engage as soon as you start pedalling or when the hub wheel goes backward. Yes there is a little time before it engages as it is a low engagement hub by design, but it eventually does engage, and I doubt the slack you get from that design would be enough for any type of free coasting 🤔
Let me get this straight. The mtb industry sold us all on high engagement hubs just to now sell us a device that counteracts the negatives of having high engagement hubs? Lmfao if you buy any of this crap, you’re the problem lmfao
I rode ethirteen tires and compared them to Maxxis of similar intended use (Enduro) and the ethirteen where definitely up to the job. If we talk about tough DH courses, the Maxxis DD casing is probably a better option tho.
Isn't this just treating the symptom and not the root of the problem? Frame and suspension designers now have less incentive to engineer a system to balance kickback and now all that work is done using a proprietary hub system
Strange that you wouldn’t try a “cheaper” hub with less engagement…but then again they wouldn’t sell any hubs Also the guys biggest selling point was a cheap hub might have inconsistent engagement. I don’t know about you but I’ve never been “oooh that wasn’t 3 degrees…that was more like 3.5 degrees this hub is shit”
His point is that a cheap hub might be engaged when you hit the bump and then you still experience kickback. The point is not that its inconsistent when you start pedaling. Its inconsistent at preventing kickback. This e13 design will always have the same amount of free play before kickback as the designs keeps it "open" until you pedal.
my god but how much help do you need to ride a bike, the component that was mounted on the crankset already existed, this is only good if you mount a double chainring, which marketing has made disappear, with the 26s all these aids were not sought, among bikers there was no talk of it, not even among professionals
I'd rather run a 240 with an 18t than this absurd boat anchor. Hell, I'd rather run a 370 that I personally had to pull the drive rings to convert to Star Ratchet. I'm willing to accept that this has a practical use case for serious DH riders running some funky kickback linkage. But for that weight and price, I'd go with an Onyx, or just save some dough and get something prettier and lighter.
The biggest thing I alwase wonder about is how often suspension impacts are fast enough to overcome the wheel speed and cause pedal kickback. Kickback can clearly be seen when the rear wheel is not moving, and the bike is dropped. Howevwer when the rear wheel is rolling fast downhill, you would need a super fast impact for the chain to grow faster than the wheel is spinning and actually crate tension on the cranks. Something like this would probably be most noticeable in the suspension feel when the rear wheel is locked up or close to it skidding through steep tech. Having the play in the freehub is a much better solution than something like o chain because while Ochain separates the cranks from the system, you still have the inertia of the cassette, chain, and chainring, slowing down the suspension ever so slightly in these unique situations. Regardless, I think this is an excellent design. A lesser talked about problem which is also done nicely on this hub is the bearing bracing. Many hubs (most noably i9) have the driveside bearing very inwered into the hub causing extreme stress and unwanted flex / deflection and premature alxle/ bearing wear. This hub has a load bearing on the freehub outside of the ratcheting mechanism as close to the cassette as possible, and the frehub body is directly reinforced with its bearing under that one, creating one of the widest bracing angles. this creates a more consistent hub feel and allows you to tune wheel flex more symmetrically with spokes and rim design. It's not unique to this hub, but definitely one of the best designs.
Axle flex is designed into the I9 Hydra, that's how it gets such instant engagement. You're not wrong about premature bearing wear though!
@@maxwellduff4958 I fail to understand your logic. You claim that this hub is better than ochain because ochain doesn't solve rear end components' inertia. But this hub doesn't solve this either as you still need a cassette, chain etc. Actually it is making it worse compared to ochain as this hub is heavier than a standard hub and that extra weight is all unsprung weight whereas ochain added weight is sprung weight, positioned at the center of the bike. To me the hub solution is inferior to ochain because of this. I can see two advantages to the hub design, first it might need less maintenance if it proves to be reliable, second it has more degree of freedom than the ochain max setting so if you have a bike with very high pedalkick ochain could reach its limit.
Now I am with you on pedalkick, theoretically you shouldn't be able to feel it however big of a PK you frame has as long as you ride fast enough to keep freewheeling. But so many people (journalists, WC riders and riders) seem to swear by it that it must be doing something right. Hopefully one day somebody comes with a proper testing setup and can show/explain what actually happens.
If you are riding slower, the hits are slower, but the hub is slower too. So for the same hit the relative speed will probably be the same.
If you are going 20km/h, a 29er will do about 2 rotations per second. A 60mm freewheel will have a speed 0f 0.4m/s at the circumference. To get the speed of a hit is a bit more complicated and very dependent on the type of hit, but i think it is easy to see it will be more than 0.4m/s. Plus you have to take the cog into consideration because it influences the rate at which the cassette can catch up with the freewheel.
@@gg4760-k5n what he means with inertia from the cassette is not the unsprung weight, but the rotating inertia from the cassette. With o chain the cassette still rotates on a hit and thats causing chain tension between the cassette and the chainring, you may not feel the tension (kickback) because the cranks are "isolated" from it but the tension still affects the suspension. The sidekick hub solves this problem because the cassette won't start rotating till the 12/15/18° are used up, which results in no tension on the chain and no interference on the suspension
@@clemenshofbauer5740 if the cassette amd chain don't affect the crank that also means there is no resistance to their movements which also means it cannot influence suspension. Chain effect relies on chain tension between the cassette and the crank. Think about it this way, if you pump you bike at very low speed, slow enough that pedalkick is a thing and it engages your normal hub. If you keep your feet on the cranks you will be able to accelerate your bike from pumping. Do the same but don't have your feet on the pedals. Now for each pump your cranks will move slightly but you won't create any speed as the chain effect is now wasted since there is no resistance at the other end of the system. Whether you cancel the tension from the wheel side or the crank side doesn't matter as long as chain tension is not created.
Love the shot with the broken axel
Definitely would love to see a stock setup, O-chain, no chain, Sidekick, low engagement hub comparison video.
I think that's the way to go.
Weight: 408g (148x12 XD rear hub)
Instead of subjective “tests” can we please have a proper complete test rig to prove this stuff? Build a rig to remove that subjectivity and other rider variables.
A test rig can only test what you build it to test. It can never fully simulate real life. May be interesting but real life test will always be less quantitative but better.
@@maxwellduff4958while I agree that complexity is a driver for real life testing rather than lab, relying only on subjective assessment is basically level 0 of proof. Considering how strong contextual effects can be you could make things actually worth and have people swearing it is an improvement. So yeah, real life testing with shit loads of sensors to objectively assess suspension performance is what should be done. Short of that lab testing is second and people testing and reviewing a distant third.
@@gg4760-k5n Fair enough, I definitely agree.
A test rig is a lab test and not a system test, it has to be a system test with quantifiable results... Time has onna DH bike is the most important thing.
Both side of this debate has merits. However it would intriguing to see quantifiable numbers in fixed test rig. This would eliminate the placebo effect, rider/brand biases, rider style etc.
Perhaps have a setup that holds the bike frame completely rigid then attach a nm force gauge to the crank arms and while in a neutral (parallel to the ground) riding position. Then have a piston push up on the rear swing arm axle bolt at various fixed (slow med fast) speeds to measure the amount of nm transferred to the peddles at each speed.
Also, another test could be to hold the peddles in a completely static rigid position, repeat the test and measure the amount of rotations the rear wheel would turn forward (if at all) in the various degree options the hub offers. Both tests conducted without the rear shock attached of course.
Just a suggestion this riders would be very intrigued to see happen Vital/E-thirteen
Interesting! Have you guy tried sidekick and O-chain together and then try sidekick on high pivot bike and see what it's like. Would be cool to review them!
I would not say that I am feeling the pedal kickback itself. But I can feel the suspension stiffens under braking. If this hub solves the stiffening, so it is worth it.
thats generally how its felt this solves the stiffening
Back to Back testing makes a lot of sense but you actually tested 29er DT Swiss vs. 27/Mullet with Sidekick 😆. Especially when describing the difference in cornering this could be likely related to a different tire size. Hard to say if it was really the hub or tire size or maybe a combination of both. After all cool to see that different players coming in to address this topic since it is real - I never noticed it before really but when riding a high-pivot bike for some time and then going back I noticed that there is really a huge difference - especially when riding flats.
How about a chainless run as well?
Seems like a better solution that a zero chain chainring to me, also something amplified by high-engagement hubs which isn’t really beneficial on downhill oriented bikes
I can’t be bothered to go back, to check, but did I hear that the wheel size was different?
yep...
more important than kick back, where are the bearings located, perhaps thats a better selling point .
is the stock wheel 29 and the E13 wheel 27.5?
yep. as discussed around 8:15 in the video.
Seems like a big difference that could be easily normalized
@@vitalmtb your scientific incompetence has cost me dearly
It's weird they used different sized wheelsets in this test. Cause, you know, science 'n stuff.
It should have been a blind test to see if you would notice any difference
How? It would have to be a deaf test as well.
@@adamtousek7622 well, that is indeed a good point.
Riding with music or earplugs maybe? But i would agree that, well for me at least, losing my hearing would most likely affect my riding.
seems they just added parts and a "new tech" to a low engagement hub, which would NOT have pedal kickback. 12'-15' isn't going to give kickback anyway...lots of space for the pawls to move before that happens...
I have never thought “wow my pedal kickback is holding me back”
Is a hub like this on a standard suspension bike more effective than a high pivot bike?
Did GT did that with the iDrive about twenty years ago?
I’m mostly curious how this compares to Chris King and Onyx. Construction and price are above standard DT, Hope etc.
Sick vid! Y'all do the best tests by far
On today’s episode of “completely unnecessary complication that no one can even feel the difference”, we have the e13 hub!
How long before we see a few more sprag clutch options?
Love the innovation and engineering...but only 3 pawls? My Eeb will destroy that hub in less than a year, as It has three other hubs. Gotta start building stronger hubs for Eebs.
3 simultaneous pawls yes. I don't think we've had more than that on any hub, and if we have there were not many.
Which ratchet set did you have in the 240 hub ? 18, 36, etc ?
Nvm you said it at like 8 mins
Grappler mopo.....damm fine tyres
Quality technology of cycle parks...
does this mean i can fakie ? like a freecoast hub ?
yeah for a whole 1/20th of a rotation
Looks great but the tool-free ajustment isnt the selling point he is trying to make it xD Its not like this is the shit you change while out riding, you do this at home on the workbench and you have tools available. If it can be made simpler or more robust without "tool free ajustment" that would be better.
I don't think this "float" adjustment is something that you keep playing with. I think you find the setting that works for your bike and move on with life.
I don't get these things. Finally they make hubs with quick engagement and now they make it worse.
Because you can't understand how it works that's the problem not the hub lol.
Did you watch the video. 2:34 addresses this.
Quick engagement is for people who like to climb. If you like to ride downhill then you’ll understand the benefit of this.
mtbers will do anything to avoid putting an awful freecoaster bmx hub on their bike. i guess the bigger question is, is the high engagement setting gonna be looked at by trials type guys or is still lower engagement than some of the 'best' hubs on market...
Have you ever ridden a free coaster ? They aren’t awful, there’s many different types from planetary hubs to the profile Z coaster which is a casset and coaster … planetary hubs are instant engagement as long as you pedal faster than the wheel speed, other than that it’s a free coaster
@@jamesmoore8461 lots of sarcasm in my first sentence. hoping the meme formatting made it apparent
So still not a high engagement freehub killing pedal kick back.
Funny how the trend was maximum engagement points, and now it’s not so cool anymore 😂
What works for DH doesn't necessarily work for other branches of MTB. I'd never, ever buy one of those hubs for trail riding and I don't accept anything less then 36 POE (which is still too little for decent feel).
E Thirteen scares the shit out of me. Not very durable products
I’m staying far away from anything made by E13. Historically and experientially, really sub par stuff. No thanks.
For real
Is there any functional difference between this and an 18 tooth DT Swiss star ratchet?
2:34 in video asks this same question.
How about putting this to a real test alongside O-Chain and a really low engagement hub?
Grab a high pivot bike. A real high pivot, not one of the many mid pivot idler equipped ones. Then remove the idler, shorten the chain and use that as a testbed.
What we're all really interested about isn't if this works to a degree, but rather if the Ochain and this hub present any perceivable benefits over a low engagement hub.
actually you should use a mid pivot bike. Proper high pivot bike will create a lot more kickback than the 12° allowed by the ochain so it wouldn't be faire and it would be putting some gear out of its scope. Kinda like testing a XC tire on a DH rig and conclude it is garbage ... well yeah, duh ! Other than that I would agree with you, and use telemetry system to see if there is any actual improvements aside from contextual effects aka placebo.
Very Clever
So you're saying I shouldn't put a 18t star ratchet in my hub? 😂
I hope you get the comical/cynical part of this ordeal.
Just ride a hardtail.
Designed a great product that will be obsolete when everyone used concentric high pivot pulleys.
Trying to compare the way two hubs feel by putting them on different size wheels is the most stupid shit I have seen in MTB this year. You might as well ride two different bikes while you're at it...
I don’t understand why the last five or six years rear hubs have become such a focus, it seems like every company has to have their own special rear hub to separate it from the rest
@11:25…worrying about some minute difference in the hub as he proceeds to rear-wheel skid down the trail.
What is pedal kickback anyway?
I swear I could see a difference in the slow motion.
Unless you’re a professional racer I don’t see it being helpful to weekend jabronies riding
People will buy it and then they'll never ever adjust it😂
Seems like a convoluted way to make a effectively a low engagement hub.
He did discuss that while sitting in the field and it made sense to me. With a low engagement hub, there will still be times when your pawls are right on the cusp of being engaged so would still have moments of pedal kickback.
If durability pans out, then this is the type of forward thinking I can embrace -- a legit advancement in performance, and not more of the incremental gains marketed as "groundbreaking" and unnecessarily inflating bike prices.
If you throw away that one Pawl on the Red pusher, could you use it as freecoaster ?
That's what I thought this was at first.
Came here to ask the same thing
if you take that pawl you will also get infinite degree of engagement, meaning that you would always be freecoasting. That pawl is what brings the other three into the outer ring.
@@EnjoyTheRideMTB Runs silent and and absorbing kick back by disengagement is exactly what my BMX freecoaster would do. The free coasting action is what would prevent the kick back no?
@@PabloGonzalez-hv3td I don’t know how free coasters work usually, but on the hub presented here, if you take away the pawl, it simply won’t work anymore.
The "timing" pawl and the engaging pawls are mounted on the same axis, so if there is no timing pawl, this design will never know when to engage and you would always be free coasting.
I am not sure we can call it free coasting here as it starts to engage as soon as you start pedalling or when the hub wheel goes backward.
Yes there is a little time before it engages as it is a low engagement hub by design, but it eventually does engage, and I doubt the slack you get from that design would be enough for any type of free coasting 🤔
Let me get this straight. The mtb industry sold us all on high engagement hubs just to now sell us a device that counteracts the negatives of having high engagement hubs? Lmfao if you buy any of this crap, you’re the problem lmfao
eThirteen - sells tires, uses Maxxis in their own marketing.
I rode ethirteen tires and compared them to Maxxis of similar intended use (Enduro) and the ethirteen where definitely up to the job.
If we talk about tough DH courses, the Maxxis DD casing is probably a better option tho.
the tires were ours.
This isn’t e*thirteen marketing? This is a vitalmtb video.
@@Austintron hard to tell... plenty of sponsored content about
Isn't this just treating the symptom and not the root of the problem? Frame and suspension designers now have less incentive to engineer a system to balance kickback and now all that work is done using a proprietary hub system
Strange that you wouldn’t try a “cheaper” hub with less engagement…but then again they wouldn’t sell any hubs
Also the guys biggest selling point was a cheap hub might have inconsistent engagement. I don’t know about you but I’ve never been “oooh that wasn’t 3 degrees…that was more like 3.5 degrees this hub is shit”
His point is that a cheap hub might be engaged when you hit the bump and then you still experience kickback. The point is not that its inconsistent when you start pedaling. Its inconsistent at preventing kickback. This e13 design will always have the same amount of free play before kickback as the designs keeps it "open" until you pedal.
my god but how much help do you need to ride a bike, the component that was mounted on the crankset already existed, this is only good if you mount a double chainring, which marketing has made disappear, with the 26s all these aids were not sought, among bikers there was no talk of it, not even among professionals
I'd rather run a 240 with an 18t than this absurd boat anchor. Hell, I'd rather run a 370 that I personally had to pull the drive rings to convert to Star Ratchet. I'm willing to accept that this has a practical use case for serious DH riders running some funky kickback linkage. But for that weight and price, I'd go with an Onyx, or just save some dough and get something prettier and lighter.