Ed, I truly appreciate your videos on foam board building. The three times I took my plane up was the same day it crashed. Now I will be able to crash $4 worth of foam instead of $100+ planes. My tapeing needs to be improved. After almost getting a spar almost permanently glued in placed, it occurred to me to lubricate it with a candle or paraffin. Once again thank you. George Granada Hills, California
I have definitely played around with sharper and rounder leading edges depending on the expected range of operating angles of attack. I have not used a rigid former although it's a fine idea. I usually just vary the time and the force used to crush down the leading edge during manufacture - more time and force for sharper leading edge, less for blunt leading edge. I hope to see your plane when it's done.
Man, I am soooo using this method when doing my next wing, this was very well explained, thank you for taking the time to make it and post it here :-) Now to watch the rest of the videos in this series :-)
@calebsmedia Yes, understood completely. Since you will always need a whole sheet per wing (unless you made really short chord, like 4") I just use the lower surface to govern the cuts and let the upper surface curve over and cut off the excess. I have found that the upper surface typically ends up being equal to the lower surface plus 1" for the 2-thickness camber and 1 1/2" for the 3-thickness camber, then plus whatever you make the control surface.
Thought of all of those and tried some. I encourage experimentation and creativity. I personally try to keep it really simple for high volume construction and ease for newbies, but all the improvements you mention are great. And yes, anywhere you remove the paper you can easily bend, for round fuselage tubes, symmetrical or semi-symmetrical airfoils, etc. Hope you try some and share video.
I have found a very nice precise and clean way to cut the foam for hinges and bevel edges by scoring and removing just the right amount of paper than use a hot wire cutting tool to cut the foam, it will perfectly run guided by the paper, no mess and perfectly strait ,my two cents. Ron
It's not critical but 3/4-1" is just about right to provide the right angle of bevel to engage the upper wing surface when it's folded over. If it's a little long or short, as long as the very trailing edge of the bevel is carefully adhered to the upper wing just forward of where the hinge will be, it will be a tight joint.
Once again good video! I do have one question though. Is it possible to know how long to make the top of the wing? Another words, if I know I wont use the entire sheet of foamboard such as to make a 5in cord wing, is there a way to know where to cut the top part of the wing or do you use the entire sheet of foamboard to make wing and after the wing is complete cut of the excess foam? Hope that makes since.
I'm assuming that if you didnt want the flat bottomed airfoil, you could remove the paper completely from the inside and bevel both edges to form a symmetrical airfoil? also, ever experiment with tapered wings in both thickness (thick wing at the fuselage, but the tip being thin) and width (leading/trailing edge are long, but tip is skinny). also, ever thought about a radius wing tip like on a Spitfire?
do you ever use monokote instead of tape? it would seem very easy to apply with all those flat surfaces. i tried covering a very curvy frame fuselage once with the stuff, no bueno, but all the flat, would be a piece of cake: (google: top flite monokote)
@omendesign Tell me about it! Have you checked out my thumb? I lost my entire left thumb in an explosion and my new one was once my left index finger, many surgeries later. But yeah man, I know that tingly "hands about to get hurt" sensation!
i just starte making your armin wing.i have a 11/2" pvc to make a radius on leading edge.have you tryed this at all im looking for a high lift short wing length and useing wing fences
If you mean a swept wing, see the "Synapse" design on this channel. There are some other guys doing swept and tapered wings, a bit harder to build, but cool. Look up nieder99n on youtube and templton89 on RCGroups.
Ed, I truly appreciate your videos on foam board building. The three times I took my plane up was the same day it crashed. Now I will be able to crash $4 worth of foam instead of $100+ planes. My tapeing needs to be improved. After almost getting a spar almost permanently glued in placed, it occurred to me to lubricate it with a candle or paraffin. Once again thank you.
George
Granada Hills, California
I have definitely played around with sharper and rounder leading edges depending on the expected range of operating angles of attack. I have not used a rigid former although it's a fine idea. I usually just vary the time and the force used to crush down the leading edge during manufacture - more time and force for sharper leading edge, less for blunt leading edge. I hope to see your plane when it's done.
Thanks for these videos, they have simplified my builds a lot.
Man, I am soooo using this method when doing my next wing, this was very well explained, thank you for taking the time to make it and post it here :-) Now to watch the rest of the videos in this series :-)
Definitely! Narrower chord and longer wingspan makes a nice glider wing.
@calebsmedia Yes, understood completely. Since you will always need a whole sheet per wing (unless you made really short chord, like 4") I just use the lower surface to govern the cuts and let the upper surface curve over and cut off the excess. I have found that the upper surface typically ends up being equal to the lower surface plus 1" for the 2-thickness camber and 1 1/2" for the 3-thickness camber, then plus whatever you make the control surface.
Thought of all of those and tried some. I encourage experimentation and creativity. I personally try to keep it really simple for high volume construction and ease for newbies, but all the improvements you mention are great. And yes, anywhere you remove the paper you can easily bend, for round fuselage tubes, symmetrical or semi-symmetrical airfoils, etc. Hope you try some and share video.
I have found a very nice precise and clean way to cut the foam for hinges and bevel edges by scoring and removing just the right amount of paper than use a hot wire cutting tool to cut the foam, it will perfectly run guided by the paper,
no mess and perfectly strait ,my two cents. Ron
Really good explainations! I learned al lot from it.
Thank you.
René from the Netherlands
I never have but it sounds like a great idea. I'm sure it's somewhat more expensive but it would look great.
@usarmyfl1 Yes it's colored packing tape, AKA "carton tape", "sealing tape". It can be found online through TapeBrothers and other sources.
It's not critical but 3/4-1" is just about right to provide the right angle of bevel to engage the upper wing surface when it's folded over. If it's a little long or short, as long as the very trailing edge of the bevel is carefully adhered to the upper wing just forward of where the hinge will be, it will be a tight joint.
Once again good video! I do have one question though. Is it possible to know how long to make the top of the wing? Another words, if I know I wont use the entire sheet of foamboard such as to make a 5in cord wing, is there a way to know where to cut the top part of the wing or do you use the entire sheet of foamboard to make wing and after the wing is complete cut of the excess foam? Hope that makes since.
Thank you for this reference. I was going to ask this question too.
Nice videos! You explain and show it very well. Is that colored tape also packing tape? Or is there another name for it.
I'm assuming that if you didnt want the flat bottomed airfoil, you could remove the paper completely from the inside and bevel both edges to form a symmetrical airfoil? also, ever experiment with tapered wings in both thickness (thick wing at the fuselage, but the tip being thin) and width (leading/trailing edge are long, but tip is skinny). also, ever thought about a radius wing tip like on a Spitfire?
Espectacular muy bien 👍
after l read this movie, the scales fell from my eyes.
Question: What is the beginning width of the trailing edge bevel on the bottom of the wing?
do you ever use monokote instead of tape? it would seem very easy to apply with all those flat surfaces. i tried covering a very curvy frame fuselage once with the stuff, no bueno, but all the flat, would be a piece of cake: (google: top flite monokote)
Ah okay cool. Thanks for the reply!
is the aileron included in measuring the chord ?
@omendesign Tell me about it! Have you checked out my thumb? I lost my entire left thumb in an explosion and my new one was once my left index finger, many surgeries later. But yeah man, I know that tingly "hands about to get hurt" sensation!
i just starte making your armin wing.i have a 11/2" pvc to make a radius on leading edge.have you tryed this at all im looking for a high lift short wing length and useing wing fences
where can i buy the red tape?
If you mean a swept wing, see the "Synapse" design on this channel. There are some other guys doing swept and tapered wings, a bit harder to build, but cool. Look up nieder99n on youtube and templton89 on RCGroups.
hello, do you have any blueprints?
hemm how would you do a delta wing ?
That is observant! You are right, I confess to some occasional stupidity.
Man, you really shouldn't walk barefoot while using sharp tools, like knives, screwdrivers, icepicks,...