Hey, something to consider for these little tools: If you use a masonry nail or steel dowel pin, they will stay sharp longer due to being hardened. Masonry nails look like traditional cut nails - squared - so they're also useful for making cutting gauges and other small scoring blades. It's a little bit of extra work to round them off into smooth pins, but they're cheap.
Really good video I will be making one of these handy little gauges. You just confirmed what I have thought for a while that supr glue is stronger when left to cure naturally. Nice to see your little hiccups, we can learn from your mistakes.
This is a neat design! You could easily convert this into a marking gauge by making a kerf cut in the fence in order to back-off the nail point of one of the beam arms. It would save making a separate marking gauge.
I'm doing a hysterical job in corpus chriti rebuilding window screens all mortise & tenons wood dowels no nails or screws. Have a mortise chisel on the way not here yet so I had to grind a 1/2 to 5/16. That might make a good video for you .
Great build and talk-thru... I think I know which channel I'm serious about binging... (lolz) Recently, I've been making washers my "go-to" for cutters. I designated a certain "scrap" of dowel for a "sharpening handle" on which I screw one washer at a time, and with a container of water nearby, I ease into beveling the exposed side of the washer with a bench-grinder... earn a bit of a bur (to the touch)... and then return to the gauge I make, where I can outline the "new cutter" so part of it exposes off the beam... With round beams, it sounds difficult, but isn't really, since the trade-off is that you can just rotate the beam to the orientation you prefer for marking. BUT I can't imagine that carving a recess into a square beam is TOO complicated, either. Pilot the screw in appropriately for steadying the washer, and the plan is, "in the field" should something happen to the exposed edge of my "improvised cutter wheel" I can always just grab a screwdriver and rotate that "ding" out of the way, exposing more "sharp and clean" blade area as I go. AND I can sharpen and refine the thing when I get back to the shop or some other place where there's space and facility for it. SO... question, in case anyone's interested : Which would YOU suggest is "preferable"??? Bevel out or Bevel in? {since I only bevel one side of the washer/cutter} Bevel out, will leave the "flat" side toward the fence, making marks some technicality "more precise" with things like chisels or boards and stuff I would "size" to my measure when I lock it down. Bevel in, will leave the "flat" side outward, where you can more easily "sight" down the thing and line it up on a measuring tape or ruler. I'm not sure what the "pro's" put on those cutting wheel type marking and mortising gauges I see on screen (all over YT), so I'm just curious what might be preferred... not that it matters to anyone I might sell to. A phillips screwdriver and you CAN just flip the thing over, too. ;o)
I might've cut a couple saw kerfs across each split, added veneer splines and called it decoration. Maybe. Or leave it alone as a test of the CA glue joint. Yeah, that's it- splines as a last resort... Thanks for a really nice little project idea.
A "morising gauge"? Isn't that a karaoke device that tells you how well you sang a Doors song? Cool project. I love your channel. I always learn something.
Thanks. I was planning to make something like this soon. Great video and timing for me !! That split was a bummer but the finished product/tool looks great. Are you going to put your logo on it (then your kids will know that was a tool dad made)? The Paducah has a great look.
I live the looking through the plane angle
Hey, something to consider for these little tools: If you use a masonry nail or steel dowel pin, they will stay sharp longer due to being hardened. Masonry nails look like traditional cut nails - squared - so they're also useful for making cutting gauges and other small scoring blades. It's a little bit of extra work to round them off into smooth pins, but they're cheap.
Very true. I did not have any on hand for this one.
Really good video I will be making one of these handy little gauges. You just confirmed what I have thought for a while that supr glue is stronger when left to cure naturally. Nice to see your little hiccups, we can learn from your mistakes.
This is a neat design! You could easily convert this into a marking gauge by making a kerf cut in the fence in order to back-off the nail point of one of the beam arms. It would save making a separate marking gauge.
I have also seen people put a second pin on the side too.
Hey joy thank you very much
Absolutely beautiful!!!! Also really like the marking the chisel for lines, one of those why didn’t think of that 😂. Take Care
I remember when I found that one. Works so well!
Another very cool little jig. I love these tools one can make. Very satisfying to use. Thanks for sharing. Best wishes. :)
Nice bit of kit I might give that a go. Thank you.
thanks Steve
I really like this two videos idea.
thanks mark. I think it will work well for the future!
I love your design, best I’ve seen
Thank you for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks!
I really like the simplicity. I might opt for plywood over paduk. I’ll let you know how it goes
Less chance of that splitting lol
Thanks for showing how, and sharing that
my pleasure!
I'm doing a hysterical job in corpus chriti rebuilding window screens all mortise & tenons wood dowels no nails or screws. Have a mortise chisel on the way not here yet so I had to grind a 1/2 to 5/16. That might make a good video for you .
Great project
Thanks.
Great build and talk-thru... I think I know which channel I'm serious about binging... (lolz)
Recently, I've been making washers my "go-to" for cutters. I designated a certain "scrap" of dowel for a "sharpening handle" on which I screw one washer at a time, and with a container of water nearby, I ease into beveling the exposed side of the washer with a bench-grinder... earn a bit of a bur (to the touch)... and then return to the gauge I make, where I can outline the "new cutter" so part of it exposes off the beam... With round beams, it sounds difficult, but isn't really, since the trade-off is that you can just rotate the beam to the orientation you prefer for marking.
BUT I can't imagine that carving a recess into a square beam is TOO complicated, either.
Pilot the screw in appropriately for steadying the washer, and the plan is, "in the field" should something happen to the exposed edge of my "improvised cutter wheel" I can always just grab a screwdriver and rotate that "ding" out of the way, exposing more "sharp and clean" blade area as I go.
AND I can sharpen and refine the thing when I get back to the shop or some other place where there's space and facility for it.
SO... question, in case anyone's interested :
Which would YOU suggest is "preferable"??? Bevel out or Bevel in? {since I only bevel one side of the washer/cutter}
Bevel out, will leave the "flat" side toward the fence, making marks some technicality "more precise" with things like chisels or boards and stuff I would "size" to my measure when I lock it down.
Bevel in, will leave the "flat" side outward, where you can more easily "sight" down the thing and line it up on a measuring tape or ruler.
I'm not sure what the "pro's" put on those cutting wheel type marking and mortising gauges I see on screen (all over YT), so I'm just curious what might be preferred... not that it matters to anyone I might sell to. A phillips screwdriver and you CAN just flip the thing over, too. ;o)
I might've cut a couple saw kerfs across each split, added veneer splines and called it decoration. Maybe. Or leave it alone as a test of the CA glue joint. Yeah, that's it- splines as a last resort... Thanks for a really nice little project idea.
Lol I thought about that but the fit was so perfict I did not want to test it.
Wood By Wright 2 Harbor Freight sells sacrificial screw clamps...
Very cool! I suppose it could also be made with a single beam to be a "regular" marking gage. Certainly smaller than commercial ones.
Yup. Right on.
Awesome job James! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
thanks Fred!
A "morising gauge"? Isn't that a karaoke device that tells you how well you sang a Doors song?
Cool project. I love your channel. I always learn something.
Lol nice. I like it.
I really need a marking gauge maybe I will make one of these just with a single beam
Making this during the week, I think. Could we get wheel cutters and put them on the end of the beams instead of using the finishing nails?
Sure.
❤
Thanks. I was planning to make something like this soon. Great video and timing for me !! That split was a bummer but the finished product/tool looks great. Are you going to put your logo on it (then your kids will know that was a tool dad made)? The Paducah has a great look.
Thanks Alan. looking forward to seeing yours!
I may need to feed you dad jokes ...
What a great idea! Is there a particular name for this style of gauge, as opposed to the typical beam-and-fence design? Or is this an original design?
there is no such thing as original and woodworking. Lol But I do not know of any particular name for one design over the other.
I have a challenge:
Make a mortising gauge without any bolts or other metal fasteners besides for the nail cutters.
Wedge gauges are fun!
heheheh love the oop's its the type of thing i do all the time ,,,, but i think i'll be makeing one for myself out of some bull oak and wallnut
Sounds like fun.
No router yet. I have rasps and chisels. How best to flatten the channel for the beams? No files as yet.
I would just use a chisel. bevel down works really well to get into grooves and spaces.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks!
Just stopped in to say “Hi”
Hey man!
Comment down below
Yeah, I can cut a straight, smooth slot. NOT. A great video. Covers a whole bunch of great skills that we all should know. Slot. Practice.
LOL thanks Bruce!
Pro tip: don’t chisel with the grain and hammer it.
LOL now you tell me!