"Putting water into your computer" sounds exactly like putting a "fire inside your house" but of course, nuance is important and the fire is in a chimney and the water is in tubes.
age? not rly more like coolant just shreds through the plastic innertube and removes abit of plastic every time, but mx 8 year old tubes still hold together to this day daily use so..😅@@НААТ
True...but my brain still can't accept that it's a good thing xD xD xD Ofcourse it's fine... but I simply cannot get over the fact of putting liquids in my electronics xD
@@RicochetForce Fine, you have a great pair of pointers. (zing) I'll change from "chimneys" to "put gas and lighting it up inside your house" which is actually tubes with gas as well that you light up on the stove. We've had explosions. Is that better?
As a middle aged man with a kid and career, I moved away from water cooling and just invest in higher end air cooling options entirely because if something goes wrong I simply don't have the time to deal with water cooling anymore and I don't want my primary rig down for weeks because I can't find the time to properly fix something. For the same reason I also like larger cases so there is plenty of room to work inside the case.
@@RealGengarTV 3 and 9 months is rough on the time, it gets better though. Mine is 10 and has a PC of his own he spends a lot of time on (programming actually, he might be on that nerd path even earlier than I was).
I'm in my 60s and have a hard time justifying water cooling when I can get something like a Thermalright peerless assassin for less than 40 bucks. No pumps, no tubing no hassle.
Air is great. I can just build it one time. Let it run and then very rarely clean it a bit... And with something like Noctua even if the fans break it is still big enough to work with only case fan or even passive manner.
Agreed! I've blown people's minds at my job telling them exactly what Jay said. The fluid doesn't have enough time to pick up so much heat that putting your GPU first in the loop versus your CPU makes one scenario better or worse. Put them in what ever order you want to... it's not really going to matter either way, and certainly not going to be damaging to either component if you "mess up" the order. I'd love to see a series of temperature probes set up in a loop to actually show the hard data on this. A lot of people will need to pay attention. Edit: To Jay's credit, he said it better in this video than I have to my colleagues. I might just have to hold up his example!
Fun facts about loop order: I have two thermal sensors in my system, radiator entrance (hot water) and radiator exit (cold water). In normal case it's about 31C and 30C, so the difference is about 1C after both CPU (14900k), GPU (4090) and two pumps (they also add some heat into water). If I lock pumps rpm to 800 though cold water is close to room temperature and hot water climbs past 40C. And components temperature also climbs quite high (gpu about 70C). So it's not even about loop order but flow is too low to cool down components.
@@deadlymecuryyeah I ran double temps sensors for a while and pretty much as soon as you start seeing big deltas it’s a sign that pump rpm are probably too low and there’s a flow problem more than anything else.
@@helljester8097 yep. And because of that it would be nice if corsair added delta between sensors as rpm control. In that case you could use difference between hot and cold water to control pump and difference between cold water and room air to control radiator fans.
Interesting anecdote; Both my PS3 and my 360 spent about 30 hours at the bottom of a pool (don't ask), and me and a coworker were able to get them running again by disassembling them, dunking everything in alcohol and letting everything dry before reassembly. That was 11 years ago and both still work.
A bag of rice works well for drawing moisture out of things that aren't easy disassembled. The issue with a Switch is it has a battery and things have a current when not plugged in so things can short out. That said, I've done it with non-waterproof mobile phones successfully @chexmixkitty
@@gideonschlen4022 I don't mean any disrespect, but rice doesn't do anything but get rice into small places where it doesn't belong. You're better off just opening the case and letting things air dry if possible. But yes, the battery in the Switch could be a problem, but it may not be a death sentence.
Mistakes I've made watercooling over the years: 1. Forgetting to put a drain in my loop. 2. Putting a drain in my loop with a T junction that had a super crappy ball valve attached to it that would free spin 360 degrees on the handle part of the valve instead of just going 0 degrees for on and 90 for off. This was fine for years because I was always smart enough to put a cap in the open end of the ball valve before firing the pc up, until the one time I wasn't. The ball valve was at around 89 degrees instead of 90 and it resulted in something like putting your finger on a garden hose, sprayed coolant straight into my expensive PSU, which then shorted out and died. 3. Thinking I would be fine just diluting my loop of premix coolant with distilled water over and over to the point where it was probably 1/3 premix, 2/3 distilled water. Turns out the chemicals in premix are super important and they stop algae growth among other things. Clogged the loop with gross algae schmoo that made me replace 2 rads and my pump. 4. Used Corsair soft tubing. This stuff is garbage that will kink up super easily and impede flow in your loop. I hate recommending EK products now but their soft tubing is the best I have ever used. I will never put distilled water in my loop again unless it is to be mixed at the appropriate ratio with a concentrate. Buy enough coolant to sustain your loop until fluid change time, it's worth it.
Imagine....all that time wasted that could have been spent gaming. Slap a D15 on it with a graphene pad and be done with it. Forever. This whole liquid cooling thing is an illness. Like fentanyl addiction.
@@Lurch-BotDunno about that. Slap water in my system, have it run for 2-3 years with zero maintenance, maybe flush it once after that - because why not. Think my current CPU loop has been running since whenever the 5900X was released, with zero maintenance. Before that it was the time between the 1800X and 5800X. Low temps, no noise.. seems fairly decent to me. Price however.. that one I can't beat air on. .... I just like seeing my GPU at 24c, and my CPU at 26c. And never approaching the 70s, 80s, what not.
Man. What did you do with the loop? Spitting in it? I have few bottles of ‘reserve’ tap water and it sits at my balcony for months and not a single sign of algae
@@Lurch-Bot I didn't buy air cooler in the last 15 years, but are they still controlled solely by the CPU core temperature? I remember I switched to AIO for the sole reason that it wouldn't jump up and down on the fan speed like the CPU temp goes to max and min under a few seconds. I hated the jet engine take off noise air coolers make. Especially on the latest few gens of cpus where they go up to 90-95 °C by design and your fan curve will inevitably go 100% all the time. Meanwhile my AIO barely ever raises fan speed as it's controlled by the water temp, not by the core temp. I don't mind fan noise if it's constant. But controlling fans by CPU temp is hectic as hell and that sudden changes that drove me crazy. So has any air cooler manufacturer thought of the idea to put temperature probes in their heatsinks, yet? And then perhaps have an onboard fan controller like my Fractal Design AIO has (although it's controlled by delta-T thanks to my MB).
I really appreciate channels like yours that try to give the viewer the confidence that they can do a task they thought was hard and beyond their skill level. I can't tell you how many videos I've watched to figure out how to fix my car, household appliance, or anything else. I've built computers for 24 years and have never touched water cooling until a few weeks ago when I installed an AIO in my system. Upgraded my AMD CPU and the air cooler just couldn't keep up. It was cheaper to get a 360mm AIO than a good air cooler. So thank you for being one of those channels that tries to boost confidence in people.
YT is great at telling people they can do anything, when, in fact, they cannot. I'm all for learning new skills but there are also bound to be a lot of people out there who will never get this right. This is why being too encouraging can be a bad thing. Of course, Jay isn't the one who is going to pay the price when it all goes horribly wrong so it is easy for him to pump others up to do things that, at least in some cases, constitute bad advice for certain people. If you spent as much time as I do on r/welding, I wouldn't have to explain. Some people are natural welders. Fewer are capable of learning the skill from the ground up. The overwhelming majority of people, when handed a MIG welding torch, will proceed to snot out a bunch of metal boogers that couldn't join themselves, let alone join two pieces of steel plate. It is like suggesting a casual gamer play Elden Ring. That's not what the game is about. You have to enjoy a nice slog through the mud. Your average person won't get it. frankly, I don't get how Starfield is a crap game when it is basically Elden Ring in space...but that's a rant for another day, under the heading of, 'Kids These Days', AKA 'Grow the hell up, Gen Alpha'... Meanwhile, TechTube has turned into FPS Russia.
@@Lurch-Bot Anyone should be able to do it from about Age 12-13 Upto 90's or 80's aslong as hands still work properly. If they cannot they would be people with disabilities (be it learning disability or physical limitations. Its kinda like people who can't drive a manual 25% are just lazy people who don't want to learn. Most have a Disability that results in a disconnect between their brain and hand/foot to eye coordination. Also why ALL Pilots can drive a manual without issues even often the first time they drive one they dont stall it, if you can only drive an automatic you will never be able to get a plane license or if you do will be a bad pilot with uncoordinated turns
@@Lurch-BotI recently did it and made a big mess on my table because I used a small bike pump to leak test, if Jayz didn't give me that tip I would've ruined my computer so the encouragement actually did the opposite of what you think, tldr not everyone is as incompetent as you are.
as a 47 year old designer, people need to get over the whole intellectual property thing. If you don't want the public to "steal it" don't show the public your product. It is called the public for a reason.
20:42 Jay's humor when calling himself out for the way he said something is always funny. It was a long day, but this particular line about "or your fingers, well *and* your fingers" had me laughing out loud for a bit.
Mixed metals and soft tubing loop with dual pumps, 360 and 120 mm rads, the fluid is an automotive antifreeze, de-ionized water and hy-per cool mix, I blast it every few months with an aquarium UV light to sterilize the fluid and kill any growth. It's been running almost 5 years - no corrosion, no growth or buildup, no fluid changes just keep it topped up. Your channel really got me started into PC liquid cooling, thanks Jay!
I don't think you need UV light that is pretty overkill. I doubt that antifreeze will grow bacteria, a kill coil and or just not putting it in direct sunlight is enough to avoid algae
Just got a new case and added a new rad to my loop. No need to upgrade any parts, but I'm glad I got in and added new fluid and cleaned the blocks.. these barrow and barrowch fittings have held up just fine. Reusing parts is awesome
I have used ek, bitspower etc for fittings and I also have a lot of 90 degree fittings from Barrow. I haven't found much between any of them except for price. I like EK torque fittings because they are easy to tighten up but I'll use the Barrow 90's 45's t fittings etc all day long.
Dude, I have been watching you for many years and am glad that you are getting back to your roots. All this fanboy non-sense and manufacturer drama is not interesting to me at all. I love when you build custom water-cooled systems. All my computers are water cooled. I keep reusing and upgrading my water-cooling components. Some of the computers have had up to 5 or six different motherboards over the years. Please get back to your roots. THX IE: Custom built NZXT H440 case from 2015 with 6mm tempered acrylic door, gutted front drive area and made panels for PS basement, floor and side to mount pump/reservoir.
I would ABSOLUTELY LOVE a video on that loop order deep dive on the Scientific aspects of how the order affects the temps of the fluids! Sounds like an amazing video!!!
As a recovering Chemical Engineering major that did lots of heat exchanger design problems in school, I'd very much like to see inlet and outlet temperature probes on all the components in your water loop and in as many different configurations as possible. Especially interested in getting supply and return temps on as many different models of radiator as possible under differing load conditions.
You say that like the idea of liquid cooling a gaming PC wasn't patently absurd to begin with. WTH kind of scientist are you?!? Surely a chemical engineer must study thermodynamics🤷♀
@@Lurch-Bot I'm sure you're correct, but I'd like to see the data to go with your hypothesis. And since Jay has so kindly offered to gather that data on his own time and money, I see no particular downside to letting him do so and then studying the results. But you do you.
I had no knowledge or experience in watercooling computers. This channel gave me the itch to customize my own PC loop, and I love it. When this thing is finally ready for an upgrade, I'll for sure water cool my next build as well. It is a great way to make a build completely your own.
I’ve been doing custom loops in my personal rig for the last seven years and it started with your videos. I watched your videos over and over and over and finally decided to take the leap and do soft to me. I still do soft tubing, but like you, I’ve switched to the black tubing because of the plasticizer issue.
Jay is definitely looking better, that's good. I water cool my pc because it cut the noise way down. Sounded like a jet starting up with the 4090. Now nice and quiet with better cooling.
Jay I water cooled my PC long before anything was available. I made my own parts without any help back around 1990. I just understood that thermal mass is the bottom line. Yes my first time used a heater core out of an 84 cavalier and a fishtank pump. Blocks were all aluminum blocks with fittings drilled in and some fins cut in for passive heat dissipation. No there were no fans on any of it because there was no such thing as motherboard headers. But I could push my system way faster than stock. No temp monitoring in those days so who knows what the real world benefits were. My current system is water cooled also. Nothing fancy expensive it just works.
I think I did my first watercooling around 1996. Fish tank pump, some kind of custom brazed brass or copper waterblock, a reservoir that went into a couple of 5.25" bays and a tiny little radiator. Didnt make as much heat back then, so the crude quality didnt matter so much, but it was fun to do.
@@chrisdrews978 Placebo effect, even on a Pentium. They didn't even use thermal compound on the heatsinks because it was questionable whether you even needed one. I have a NOS Radio Shack Pentium/MMX heatsink and fan in my collection and it would have been overkill unless you planned to overclock. I also have an Am486DX4-120 that came with a small heatsink and fan. But I ran my 486 DX2-66 back in the day at 120MHz and it didn't need a heatsink or fan. I used it for a couple of years for gaming and then sold it to a friend who used it to compile software for a couple more years because my OC tune had it doing integer like a P75 and FP like a P60.
@@Lurch-BotThey absolutely used heatsink compound with those heatsinks. It had been known for decades at that point that a heatsink needs an interface material of some sort. And it was not "questionable" whether one was needed or not. We were well into "heatsink required" territory at that point.
This video brings around a question I've been dying to ask on the rtfm show. My question is what's the difference in temps between low and high fin density radiators? Love all your content jay and the team.
I did a custom loop for the first time a few months ago, and hearing that a leak isn't necessarily instant system death is highly comforting. I feel like I knew that in the back of my head, but it's still nice to *hear* it. Also just glad for this channel prepping me for years before I tried a loop myself, turned out pretty great and I didn't forget to buy a single thing!
It was an expensive initial cost, but I don't regret going custom loop one bit. Been using the same pump/res combo, fittings, soft tubing, and CPU block for multiple years now. The GPU blocks when I decide to upgrade are a punch in the gut, but I accept it. My main reasoning for continuing to have a custom loop in my system is silence. 2 60mm 360 rads and a 40mm 280 rad in my system cooling a 14700k and a 7900xtx.
Yeah...CPU blocks are almost eternal, but GPU blocks? Well if you want a different card, you are pretty much screwed (unless you are willing to do awful lot of DIY to make it fit).
The reason I use a an aircooled pc is silence. I listen to music with open back headphones and a pump running with a minimum of 2k rpm 24/7 is not helpful.
@@dr.brennstab2201 Are you in a sound proof room? if not I don't see how you would even be able to notice a pump. I just turned my pump on full blast and its still quieter than the sounds I hear coming from outside my house
Based on a Jayz2cents video, I sucessully built my first custom loop with bending hard clear acrylic including CPU, GPU, VRMs, memory and 2 360 radiators. 2 years later it is still going strong. Thank Jayz!
Would love to see you make a budget watercooled build - Something with not over the top specs but still enough to warrant water cooling, what value that would be and what performance watercooling a system like that would offer etc. I feel like that would be interesting.
That doesn’t make sense. Why would you go through the hassle for a mediocre to barely good cooling? It’s not easy to build a loop for your specific case. It’s a effing b* to clean but required. A proper case is expensive. Unless you’re willing to spend a minimum of $1k minimum (wc parts + case), it’s better to stick with AIO or air cooling.
@@Paul_Sleeping I don't think you understood what I meant. I was saying it would be cool to see a water-cooled build that wasn't an i9 and 4090, maybe something lower high end tier with mid tier water cooling parts for "water cooling on a budget" so to speak.
@Paul_Sleeping meh... you can get away with $300 for a budget CPU loop. With the ability to add in the GPU for around $150 more block + rad(depending on block price). You simple don't have to buy over priced parts... and at the end of the day, you will get the same performance. As for case. That's just needless gate keeping. A; if your case is remotely modern, it should have space for 1 or two 360mm rads, maybe a 360mm and 280/240. Either of which is enough for all but the highest end PC parts. B; if for some reason it doesn't. There is nothing stopping you from external applications. At worse, you can get a fantastic case for $150. Or a ton of other options in the $70-$120 range.
@@guacamoly-. IMO issue lies with graphic card cooling. Getting full cover for lesser models are rare, and if they are present, that price is going to be... hard to justify, especially for middleweight card. Universal core-only blocks I presume still exist, but then you need to sort out memory and VRM cooling, as those are usually cooled by the same chungus that handles core. Thus, bunch of small radiators to be glued with adhesive pads and/or arranging airflow. Then, any better-ish AIB models have plenty good cooling without being loud, further reducing gains from watering the card. For CPU cooling only, lets be real - AIOs come in all shapes and flavors and they are almost universally cheaper than DIY loop while having similar to identical performance. And then nothing stops you from modifying it - longer/different tubing, adding reservoir of sorts for filling and bleeding. Unsure if pump can handle extra resistance of adding GPU block into the loop though.
I also bought a load of fittings and most of them are Dracaena and they do look fairly good and I would have never of thought to do so but after seeing you video a while back and actually having them in my hands they do look quite good even next to the corsair parts I have. The only reason I did end up buying them was because of the EKWB EK-Tube ZMT having an I/D of 9mm rather than 10mm that my current tubing has, and the Barb fittings I bought come with 13mm hose clamps which are to small to stretch round the hose when fitting on the barb so you will need bigger clamps . The 15mm ones I bought do fit and they are very snug and are wider but does sit between the barb and the knurled area of the fitting. So here's my part list that will allow me to redo my loop. *KEALBAUS 15Pcs Barb Fitting Water Cooling Radiator for G1/4 Chromed Copper Water-Cooled Heat Sink for Pc Computer* £14.40 *Sourcing map 10pcs 15mm Spring Band Type Action Fuel/Silicone Vacuum Hose Pipe Clamp Low Pressure Air Clip Clamp, Nickel Plated* £5.69 *Dracaena 6 pack G1/4" thread, Male to Male Mini Extender Fitting with tighten O-ring, Compression fitting for Computer Water Cooling System, Silver* £24.96 *Sourcing map Male to Female Extender Fitting G1/4 x 25mm for Water Cooling System Silver Tone 6pcs* £14.99 *Dracaena 6 pack G1/4" thread Male to Female Extender Fitting, 90° Rotary Enhance Multi-Link Adapter Fitting for Computer Water Cooling System, Silver* £19.99 *Richer-R G1/4 Water Fitting Splitter, G1/4 Thread 3 Way T Shape Fitting Splitter Adapter for PC Water Cooling System* £5.96 *Corsair Hydro X Series XF Fill/Drain Valve - Chrome (CX-9055020-WW)* £18.39
Once the Light Base 900/600 come out, there are going to be some very incredible looking horizontal layout builds in that thing. I'm looking forward to it.
My best myth bust was trying to explain to people that the loop will saturate and all components will receive the same temperatures. After trying to argue the point to exhaustion and annoyance, I just finally started referring people to your channel and videos. Thank you and your team for the work you do and all of the great video's and insight. You are a boon not only for us experienced types, but also for beginners. Please continue to do what you do, and we all look forward to the new expansion.
Roughly the same temps anyways, it can be a few C difference. My system runs a difference of 2c or so under load between the output of the rads and the output of the heat load (I have temperature sensors in both places). It depends on your flow, which is another major myth that you need a huge flow rate.
Once in 2001 I had a PC in a high tower which was on the floor and my dog then decided to piss in to my pc and the cabinet was open so everything inside was completely wet with piss. The craziest thing was that there was power but it wasn't on, I removed the power cable and removed all the cables from it and rinsed it with distilled water inside and dried it. When I turned my PC back on it worked perfectly, I guess it just proves that electronics are tougher than you imagine.
I came back to your videos when I am planning todo the upgrade and man. I can tell your contributing aloooot to the community. Thank you Jay! I'm sure alot of us will mention you to their kids that there was a guy on RUclips taught me how todo alot of computer stuff.
That's what old PT Nuke is but you don't want to use it with nickel plating it'll ruin it, if you only have copper / brass it'll be fine but most blocks aren't available as copper unfortunately :(
That's gonna make your coolant acidic. Not a great idea for the application. Also, while deionized water is unlikely to cause a short if it leaks, if you put copper sulphate in the water, it will ensure it is conductive.
Thanks for all this information. Never wanted to try water cooling over the fear of a leak happening and drying the whole system. Maybe I’ll give it a try later this year with a new build.
A lot of people don't understand that 300 watts of heat is 300 watts of heat no matter what the actual temperature is or in other words 300 watts of heat at 70C = 300 watts of heat at 80C However the advantage of 300 watts at 70C is your CPU or GPU can clock a little bit faster but even that difference only means a couple percent increase in FPS or 1 - 3 FPS which is essentially unnoticeable in actual gameplay.
You are confusing a few things. The CPU wattage isn't a fixed value being always dissipated. What happens is, given the tasks being processed, the operating frequency increases, which increases the wattage (wattage is proportional to the square of the frequency). If the computer has a safeguard limit set (for example, a maximum temperature), the CPU throttles the frequency to keep the temperature at the set limit. When that limit is reached, the wattage decreases (due to the throttling). The current CPU's and main boards allow as well throttling due to current, power (wattage), or other things.
Aerospace engineer here specializing in heat transfer and hydraulics. Definitely agree with loop order. I've posted various versions of the following on Reddit at least a few times: Given the specific application of consumer PCs, order does not matter if flowrate through the heat exchanger(s) is sufficiently high to impel turbulent flow. In Engineering, turbulent flow can be predicted by finding the Reynold’s number of your flowing fluid in a given tube of the heat exchanger. The higher the Reynold's number, the "more turbulent" (to put it simply), and higher Reynold's numbers correlate well with heat transfer efficiency. Turbulent flow can be visualized as little fluid whirlpools and eddies constantly shifting particles around and changing their positions, so heat has a chance to quickly make it to heat exchange interfaces (such as where the fluid physically contacts the surface of a metal heat exchanger) and get transferred out of the system via physics. On the opposite end, slower flow rates will more likely impel laminar flow through any given tube, and laminar flow is not good for heat transfer efficiency. During laminar flow, fluid movement is relatively uniform, where the "inner volume" of the fluid swaps with the "outer volume" of the fluid much less often and much less dramatically. Both those characteristics together (slow flowrate, fluid flow that is more characteristically laminar) will yield a measurable temperature drop across any given heat exchange interface. As a consequence, you’ll be more likely to detect a significant fluid temperature difference between the inlet of your heat exchanger and its outlet. So detecting a temperature difference at all across any component means your system as a whole is far from operating at optimal thermal transfer efficiency. If your pump is sufficiently powerful, turbulent flow is achieved through the heat exchanger tubes, and instead of there being a significant difference between the inlet and outlet temperatures across a single component, you instead achieve a *steady state system temperature.* In this state, component order does not matter. The steady state system temperature of a heat rejection system with a very high reynolds number in the heat exchanger will always be lower than the average system temperature of a system where flowrate is insufficient to drive turbulent flow. Of course, this assumes all else equal, such as your fans being operational and the airflow setup. A single, say, D5 pump is significantly more than powerful enough to achieve this steady state system temp with minimal discernible temperature difference across any component. That system is typically 1 cpu, 1 gpu, and two heat exchangers. Even then, that single pump can accommodate more components than most would probably think. There are fringe cases, such as when specific components generate extreme amounts of heat. These cases do not exist in individual consumer PCs.
A more efficient transfer of heat will only make the space hotter if it means the components can run at higher power limits. How fast heat transfers doesn't have an effect on the total energy outputted unless some other factor changes. At most it might affect how fast your room gets hot, but that's about it.
Came here to say this but you beat me to it. Jay probably meant that with more efficient cooling come higher power limits and that's why his room gets hotter.
I have actually cooled my PC room with water cooling. I have no pump or reservoir in the PC, I have quick disconnects on the back of the machine, and run EPDM tubing up to the corner of the wall and ceiling, through a wall, down the hall, and into my house's central air return. the pump, and radiator are on a 3d printed stand, and a small file server PC is also in there, cooled on the same loop. The 480mm radiator fans and pump are powered by a small independent wall plug 12v adapter. my pc room temps dropped around 10-12f just by pumping the heat out of the room. it's a four liter system.
I always fantasised about having an external loop and put the rad outdoor in winter. :D Just out of curiosity, if you put the rad in the central air return, wouldn't that be the extracted air? That air would be the at the same temp as in your rooms it gets extracted from, no? How is it lower still than your room temp?
@@Teasuti the central air return is the entire house's air return. I'm not moving the heat outside of the house, the ac is doing that as part of its normal duty. By putting the radiator in the central air return I am eliminating the problem of the specific room the pc is in heating up and getting much warmer than the rest of the house, without having a thermostat for the room and retrofit dampers on the central ac system.
@JayzTwoCents I totally understand the "hot room while streaming" issue. You've probably already considered this, but just in case... a window AC unit 100% solved this problem for me. I have completely capable central AC, but when my streaming room door is closed, my PCs and lights just cook the room! The window AC unit has made streaming SOOO much better! Just make sure you at *least* have an audio gate on OBS to help with the noise. It's completely doable!
I completed my own water loop a week back. I bent hardline tubbing. I owe this channel a lot for the motivation and quick tips when bending. If I can do it, so can you. I had many reservations when approaching this project. But I powered through and my new rig is B-E-A-Utiful.
I did my first custom loop build a couple months ago, it was very scary at first. Especially taking a very expensive gpu apart, but by just making sure all the parts fit and I had the right tools it wasn't that hard. I thought of doing soft tubing but I found some pre bent hard tubing so all I had to do was cut them to size. If anyone has any questions about what I did feel free to ask!
After watching this channel for a long while, I built a custom loop for my 3080TI. Eventually, I needed to clean my loop, touch-up the thermal paste... basic maintenance, really. I used a bunch of isopropyl alcohol during the cleaning and when I put everything back together, it looked like I killed my card. In the end, I just hadn't waited long enough for the alcohol to evaporate. Isopropyl alcohol evaporates quickly, but impurities can mean a much longer dry time than you expect.
if you used 70/30 yeah. most of the ones on the shelf at the market are 70/30 because it disinfects better with some water in it. but theres usually a small single 90+% bottle too at the markets too. I managed to find one that is 99%. evaporates in a couple seconds.
Thanks for sharing that knowledge and, as you said "Reason channels like mine exist is to make stuff, that seems daunting, approachable for first-timers" (not exactly word-for-word but that was the gist of it), thank you for that as well. Throughout my PC user career, I was like "I clean it myself and at max I exchange a RAM stick, but more than that no, I don't want to break a hardware component by accident and cause hundreds of Euros in damage". Channels like yours and Subreddits dabbling in PC building and reading there actually gave me confidence to dabble deeper, see that it is not that hard and daunting as it seemed and this or next year I wanna try to build my next PC entirely myself from scratch! Thanks for giving less experienced people, me included, that confidence!
My first video I watched of yours what “how to water cool a computer.” Because of you I’ve been water cooling for 11 years. External rad(s) still, Basic-B bitspower barbs, barb clamps, Primochill Advanced LRT soft tubing, PHN PT Nuke (still), distilled water. Never a leak, never a problem with growth, plasticizer leaching, or anything. Multiple upgrades, have not had any issue, reused some tubes just down to laziness. Started with an Intel 4570T, going strong now with an AMD 3950X, basically the same setup, still the same Lian Li VCR lookin case.
Guys... look at the profile pic on some of the comments so your brain can realize that it's a bot And report it! Most times it's a pretty lady or a butt pic anyway so it's Not hard to recognise. Nevermind that the account is often less than 1-2 days old! Don't be dummies and comment / like its comment... just report or ignore them 🤷♂️
Jay is so real. Though I knew about these myths, it's still nice to hear him speak about them. Although I'm not an expert, I like to do research before I purchase items and/or perform project ideas. However, I did learn a few things while watching this video. And as a owner of a mini-itx PC with a full custom water loop, it's pretty important knowledge. Recently, I moved my PC into the Fractal Mood.
I just love the look of water cooling, can be unnecessary if you *DON’T* configure correctly. But seeing a well thought plain loop with nice bends , beautiful!! . Next loop is gonna be black tubing for sure , 6 months left till next flush !!!!!
"Moooaan custom water loops are a pain..." Use soft tubing Use quick disconnects Use an AIO instead? Switch components less maybe? I could go on 😂 That all said, there are deffinitely downsides of course but I would say you only go full custom if you get the top of the line stuff 🤷♂️
Kinda. If you want to go all new with loop, it will not be cheap, you can get a perfectly fine AIO for price of the half CPU loop. Not to mention that anything less then top tier stuff is easily coolable by whatever cheapest twin tower you can find.
The problem is that most gamers dont see any benefit running an aio. A properly specced system should always see the GPU at 100% load and the cpu below that. Doing anything else means you should have gotten a cheaper cpu and spent the savings on the GPU. Watercooling a gpu can pick up 10-20% performance increase in fps, while running at a lower temp. Unless you are working a CPU with some kind of production work, an aio is kinda a waste of money.
@Saddedude you will not see a 10-20% fps bump. You won't even see double digit synthetic score bump by running max boost consistently. A 10-20% fps boost is a full GPU tier upgrade. Hell, my 3080 which is one of if not the highest scoring non actively chilled cards, only picked up about 7% in synthetic tests. And that's at 425w, Boosting to 2.1Ghz. You can force you GPU to hold boost clocks with out excessive cooling. And even holding max clocks, it's barely above margin of error, vs oscillating. As for an AIO. It doesn't hurt. And with some CPUs is gonna behave better as they can tolerate quick spikes. They can also be useful for case pressure optimization, and of course sff.
@@Saddedude Sure, between a good AIO and an Air Cooler is not much difference in terms of temps/performance. Even the noise level can be similar. I guess it comes to what fits best for a specific system and that an AIO Can often be quiter under higher loads.
I used an Aveks water block on my last custom loop, $20 from Amazon for an all-copper water block that keeps my 11700K @ 5.3GHz running just fine. I miss the old days of making a water block out of a heatsink, plexiglass, and glue, using a K5 Blazer heater core for a radiator, and a pond pump plumbed to an automotive coolant overflow bottle but I'm glad we have the options we do now.
I will always use black EPDM rubber tube. I’ve been reusing the same sets of tube and just trimming for new builds since 2018. Same fittings just cleaned them. Saved me SO much money over the years when doing water cooling.
If your looking toward water cooling to keep your space cooler, you're looking at moving the radiator out the window. There is a series of additional challenges to move the heated water out the window decently such as pump pressure, solar heat, window air sealing, and so on.
@StrazdasLT any air pushed out will be replaced with air being pulled in somewhere. Path of least resistance often means from an exhaust vent such as from the hot water heater creating a potential carbon monoxide problem.
I used to use tygon clear tubing and swaglok fittings when I built loops 20+ years ago. Modern fittings are so cheap and good, folks have no idea how good thing are these days. Definitely something everyone should try if they're interested. Everything is easy and you can get everything off the shelf, no more DIY required.
Really fell in love with watercooling through your channel and i'm currently saving up for my next pc that will be watercooled. My biggest question is balancing heat load of the components and size/number of rads, especially when it comes to smaller form factors. Would love to see you talk about this stuff.
If you need the extra cooling for a workstation pc with a lot of cores to cool, go for it. If we are talking about a gaming pc. Just don't. It's totally not worth it.
@@dr.brennstab2201what if people like it… it’s the same thing as wrapping a car or going to an expensive restaurant… to each their own why would you tell someone not to do it when it is something they just want to have?
Water cooling is fine, if you actually need that level of cooling. Most really don't. The one thing that isn't a myth is that custom loops are usually more expense than function. Heat has to go somewhere so it is going into your room unless you can pump it outside. It doesn't just go away.
Funny but, this video actually taught me to appreciate water in my country a bit more, hearing him talking about tap water and "how dirty it is", actually in my country everyone drinks tap water since its really clean over here.
I'm not doubting your water is cleaner than ours, but 95% of the US has crystal clear 100% drinkable water. The "dirtiness" he was talking about was invisible traces of minerals and organisms found in all tap water everywhere around the world. Even if your water out of your sink is perfectly clear and has no smell or visible particles suspended in it, you still don't want to use it in a PC because all it takes is a few ppm of gunk and the warmth from the components to cause unwanted growth.
i think you missed his point. it's not that it's "dirty", it's that all water has particles in it, whether it's minerals, chlorine(treated water), fluoride and other natural and added chemicals within the water. there is no such thing as natural "clean" water. there is drinkable and undrinkable water but all water is contaminated, just some of those in small quantities aren't bad for you. if you ever wonder what your water is really like, see if they post it online or ask your local water company for a copy of the water test results.
Good drinking water contains lots of minerals. Just lemme put it that way: If you drink the water that your cooling needs, you will die from it. If your cooling gets the water you need to drink, it will die. And your tap-water cooled PC will still outlive the distilled water fed you.
You know, around the time I built my current system (although a bit late to keep me from one or two mistakes) I found your channel and used your various tips and hints for a lot of tweaking and improving and stuff. What you also managed is completely (well almost) take away my reservations against watercooling. I always found it cool, but it seemed to me very risky and I never dared try it. Now I'm currently running my first AiO (mainly because my cheap-ish case fans were making expensive noises and there was a sale and I got a 280 BeQuiet AiO for about the same it'd have cost me to get higher-quality replacement case fans). My next build (if all goes well later this year, otherwise sometime next year) will be my first custom watercooled build. But, even though you're "the watercooling guy" - you've already helped me no end in improving and troubleshooting my current build and also getting rid of some stuff I didn't need. I also really like your way of presenting and the team, so thanks a lot and I'll be looking forward to the next video(s). Cheers from Germany!
I have no problem with using water cooling. My problem is the amount of effort and money it costs to build a custom loop. The idea is great but the amount of maintenance needed is beyond my idea of fun! I use an AIO and it's fine. Why would I put so much effort into building a custom loop that won't last as long as my AIO? If you find it fun to build such a system, then good luck to you! My present system includes a Corsair 360 AIO and I'm happy with the result. At present I've been using it for 9 months and I expect to keep it for at least another 2 years no matter what other components I upgrade. 😇😇😇
The upfront cost is high sure but maintenance is not that big. Take one day a year to do a full system clean, blow out dust and drain and refill the loop. If there's block buildup, take it apart, clean it and do it back up. Take a day at most. If you need to upgrade the only ongoing cost is new blocks. Radiators are pretty much good for a decade or more. Pumps are easy enough to replace but generally stable.
@@prototypep4 I appreciate your input but a day's effort to maintain a loop is still more than I want to contemplate. The only maintenance I want to contemplate is dusting and cleaning every now and again!. I don't live in a dusty area so it takes very little effort to keep my PC clean. I guess you could say I'm too bloody lazy but hey! I'm a curmudgeonly old git! I make no apology! 😂😂😂
yes the cost is more for custom and AIOs are great for ease of install, the ability to add more rads is what swings it for me. You don't even have to drain your loop every year if it's just water and biocide and if the pump breaks, you can fix it or replace it.
@@JohnCraig-y6f the better and quieter performance is what does it for me. My system has 3 420mm rads in it. I can keep even a gpu under load cool with near silent performance. You just can't match that with an AIO and stock gpu. I mean you could go something like a suprim card but at that point may as well just have a custom loop.
I still use heater cores, gear pumps and a 5 gallon bucket. The only thing I've upgraded over the years is the 'reservoir' going to a metal canister with a 7" t-bolt clamp so I can flush the system once in a great while. 👌
Thank you for a bit of education on this subject, your time and efforts are appreciated. My personal opinion from experience working with 5 different desktop computers (4 purchased refurbished and the first being new) is that air cooling has worked okay for my needs. I do not use any games that push a machine to the limits yet dabble with Blender 3d program and create tons of digital paintings and graphic arts images. The only problem I have ever had with a computer over heating to the point of destroying a motherboard was the first computer I bought. My first experience with a personal owned computer was a new Pavillion HP with an Intel Pentium 4 including a dedicated Nvidia graphic card, purchased at Comp USA around 2004. That computer after several years of use one day shut down as a result of defective capacitors on the motherboard that burned out and allowed excessive heat to circulate. Pentium 4's are known to run very hot and require certain heatsinks. After looking into this problem I found information about how a lot of capacitors from the Pacific rim had been used on the production of certain computer brands that were defective and caused this unfortunate problem, my specific model was on the list of victims. I am not knowledgeable enough to know if having a watercooling system on that air cooled desktop would have prevented the dead end experience. Outside of that computer the four refurbished ones have worked continuously air cooled, including an older HP Compaq SFF with a Pentium 4 (32 bit cache) that has always run hot with air cooling yet very reliable and still usable for off-line use and also occasionally with Linux Debian 12 on-line. I have recently been looking at new computer desktops and leaned more towards advanced air cooling. Funny you mention how people compare auto cooling to a computer machine, I did that exact comparison. All I know is that when a water pump goes on a car you have leakage that always leads to a hose breaking open somewhere, seemed to me the same potential problem would result on a water cooled computer with potential risk to the motherboard or other components. If you had a retail store available in the city where I live, that is where my next purchase would be for a new desktop although that would be advanced air cooling. Find your videos here informative and educational.
Hello Jay, I have drained the liquid from my PC, after 917 days. I would stick to clear liquid and a few drops of Mayham concentrate and there is loop with clear and un-gunked coolant. I switched to a 7800X3D and it works like a charm. People are afraid of water cooling due to miss conception. It requires little maintenance comparing to air / AIO systems. PS - greetings from Romania.
De-ionized water really won't short out your running PC. PEG is probably the only thing you should use in a custom loop. And gremlins are real. You should be particularly wary of them if you desire to do a completely pointless liquid cooling setup on your gaming PC. Things never go more wrong than when you are acting out of pure vanity. If liquid cooling were really useful on a PC, it would be on every Omen; every MSI gaming laptop. The people who advocate for it haven't even studied Physics 101. I've had enough physics to know that the narrow temp differential makes any liquid cooling setup on a PC an exercise in ignorance. You'd be just as well off strapping a 5lb chink of copper to your CPU. Water isn't magic and you're just adding a really big heatsink that a poser like you will never heat saturate to the point of equilibrium, the point at which your fans will be making just as much noise as a purely air cooled build. You can hype all you want but it won't change the laws of physics.Based on the present hype-weather, it is a myth that water cooling a PC is purely for aesthetics. But that isn't a myth because it is a true statement.
There are two highly recommended tools, even when doing soft tubing. Tube cutter, will make things so much quicker and easier. Can use a sharp utility knife, but easier to get straight cuts with tube cutter (the type that look like scissors). Hand air pump with pressure gauge, will make having a properly sealed loop far more certain, if air isn't leaking, then water won't leak.
Always feel free to hit us up with that water cooling content Jay. Your channel is one of the key contributors to pushing me to finally trying to make my own custom loop. That was around six-seven years ago and I am never going back. Yeah it is pricey, but it gives you the best possible pc temps (components anyway), cuts my heating bill in winter (lol), is kinda stressful but fun to do, and gives you a PC that is unique to you.
Jay, I would love to see a practical build, for those whose priorities are 1) quiet, 2) easy service, 3) smaller and lightweight. In particular, I am thinking Koolance quick disconnect fittings. Small diameter rubber neoprene hose - either 1/4” or 3/8” inner diameter hose. Easy removal of GPU, CPU, change of NVME M.2 without draining loop. Consider reservoir/pump with 2 manifolds - in and out. Connect parallel loops for each item, rads, CPU, GPU, to the manifolds - no serial loops. Using 1/4” diameter rubber hose is so flexible and corresponding quick connectors are small (but expensive). 4/5 parallel loops have more area than typical 10 mm hard tubing, so pressure loss should not be an issue. May need a controllable valve to balance flows so low pressure drop rads don’t take all of the fluid flow.
Hell yeah. A deep dive would be helpful. I'm soon to start my first water cooling loop with hard tubing, and your videos have always been helpful to me on this pc building journey.
I did a full custom loop a few years ago because I wanted a silent PC, however, one thing I learned is that I probably would not do a custom loop again. mostly because of the maintenance, every year to change the coolant, clean blocks, rads, drain the system, get rid of the bubbles..etc just too much work. it can literally take a full day minimum or more than a full day if I am going to check and replace the old PETG tubing, o-rings in the fittings..etc Another big factor is that when there's hardware failure, it's a pain in the ass to troubleshoot. AIO or even air cool is much more appealing.
Making your space warmer is a great feature of watercooling. The spot were I game has a normal temp of 5-20C. So in winter my cooling system is so efficient that it keeps my room at a fully livable 17C. Summer time is a biy worse, but opening windows generally works well. :)
The point the video made is that the PC would heat your room the same amount whether you had water cooling or no water cooling, assuming you were running the same tuning / overlock of course.
It is Monsoon that makes the convertible fittings. I own some and they work well. A retention ring gets glued to the end of the tubing with the screw down ring already on the tube, behind the retention ring. Then when you screw down the outer ring to the fitting on the radiator/block/reservoir it presses the retention ring on the end of the tube into a gasket and seals everything. The retention ring doesn't allow the tubing to come out of the screw down part of the fitting because of the way the Monsoon compression fittings are designed. ModMyToys makes a variation of the fittings with carbon fiber accents also. Those look REALLY nice. I have them in my current system. All of these items are available at PPCs!
Man, the first thing I did after building my water cooled rig was upgrade the room to have an integrated AC unit, I would almost say its essential. Those free standing units are OK but they create almost as much heat as they remove, not to mention the noise.
Definitely appreciate this video. Very much looking forward to that temperature difference video, if you can make that happen. Definitely also agree with the notion of going with soft tubing for the loop. i use vinyl tubing for mine, in part because I was able to source a 20-ft roll of it for $10... at that price, I can literally afford to just throw out the old stuff when cycling new coolant every six months. That said, I do wish those old-school silver coils with the biocide were still readily available, since then I could get away with using distilled water instead of having to use a pre-mixed coolant.
in 2008 I lost some expensive parts, not directly by water contact, but because the pump broke and the water literally boiled in the blocks. (Thermal throttling was a thing on CPU's then, but GPU's and motherboard chipsets apparently not.) The pump itself died because of water though, a plexiglass part cracked and let water into the electronics side which corroded, stopping the water flow. Never again plexiglass. And never had an issue since, been watercooling for 2 decades. Loop order doesn't matter if you have enough pressure to flow properly. The whole 'thing' is from when people were using pond pumps that barely put out any pressure, and needed huge inflexible hoses to flow any water at all. Liang DDC and D5 pumps fixed that for a lot of people, and we've gotten so spoiled with all the good options since. :) Related, a myth, you "need" 1/2" ID hose for watercooling. :'D
Started with soft tubing a couple of years ago and recently went to hard tubing. You're right, the prices have become a lot more reasonable. Bykski and Dracaena offer good value.
You're looking good, Jay. I've been a strictly aio girl but have been entertaining making the jump to custom build. I think it may be wise to first try on a secondary rig in case it springs a leak!
Yes. I want to see the temperature comparison loop. Also, this was great. I learned a lot and I’m thinking about building a new PC and water cooling it soon.
Water cooling will not make your room cooler unless you are using a MoRa external radiator and 25 feet of tubing to move the radiator into a different room, or to a window. (That is what I am setting up right now for my next ThreadRipper system.)
for me its the price watercool pc sound fantastic but right now prices are all over the place and having someone like you that will take the time to test the budget pc parts will be a life saver so that way we dont overspend in something that maybe be 2 to 5 degrees of heat more than the high end watercool parts
Jay I have soft tubing from my starting build so it is 15years old, those old tubes are kinda flexible but are still super clear. But I never ever mixed my water with additives other then what you really need. So I can say in my case the clear tubes can still be clear if you had the right tubing. I had different tubes over the years and two other clear tubes are so freaking soft but those are milky now. So it really depends on what material you really got for the tubing. I recon its the same for black tubes.
Would love to see the 'between component' temp measurement deep drive. Not because I think it's necessarily important, I've seen aspects of it enough to know you're right, but it'd be cool to see the numbers and everything. Always love the science side of things when you guys tackle it.
1. Watercooling doesn't make your room colder 2. Leaks doesn't always ruin a system (not using tap water) 3. Cheap options for loop parts now exist 4. LOOP ORDER DOES NOT MATTER (because of the small size of a PC loop and small delta of temps) 5. Making a custom loop is not that hard especially for soft tubing
1- Room Temperature - Its the opposite actually, Rule of Thumb though, The larger the space/room the less internal space needed inside the case, the smaller the space the more internal space needed inside the case itself, This may seem counterintuitive but its a Thermal Dynamics thing. Best thing you can do is cycle air I found having an exhaust fan ceiling in the room like a Bathroom venting system can solve the issues of an overheated space or room, heat rises so you skim the air off the top every half hour to hour or so and it will keep the room from getting too hot. 2- Linus flooded his entire server thanks to a broken Connection, I don't think he had any issues, Water Cooling Fluid is not conductive as long as you are on a maint. schedule of drain and fills. 3- Cost - You can get some cheap stuff on Amazon from China that isn't bad, some of the stuff they warehouse here in the US so you don't have to deal with long shipping and Customs BS. 4 - Loop Order matters but not for the reasons you are talking about, Some Blocks are high pressure and some blocks are low pressure, grant it its only really going to matter a couple C at best, but if you are the min Maxxer, CPU blocks are high pressure GPU blocks are low pressure, Temperatures will always normalize over time and the difference is within margin of error unless you are super stacking Thermal efficiency methods to make a larger difference.
I've done a few loops for friends using Bykski / Barrow parts and they came in at about half the cost of the same stuff in EK. Systems all still running with no complaints.
From a complete novice: if you watch a couple of Jayz water cooling videos, they covered everything I needed to know. Hardline isn't hard; just be sure to have the right tools!
Hey Jayz ... here is something I would enjoy seeing .. it would be really cool to see you do a build with one loop , dual pump ... I tried to that in my 900D but could never get it to work , always kept leaking so figured it was to much flow and pressure .. dual loop worked fine , but would be interesting to see a single loop dual pump ... Please .. I love the PPC guys .. they are the best , I will only buy from them ..
Not only the increased heat transfer can heat up your room faster with watercooling, the lower component temperature also can lead to higher boosts and power consumption and this way increase the output even further. And for cleaning after a leak, I have a colleague whose GPU tube popped off in use due to overpressure and flooding his card. I disassembled it for him, used pressurised air to blow the water from below the components like core and VRAM, flushed it with destilled water, pressurised air again, 99% rubbing alcohol and pressurised air again. It works without issues since. Luckily he didn’t kill it when he powered it on before I cleaned it, he just got a blocky image from the water under at least one VRAM chip.
I just finished my first custom loop, biggest reason being loud GPU fans, it wasn't cheap but also didn't break the bank, went with almost full Alphacool build, and luckily I can reuse the block for a long time to come, quite happy with the results, still need to buy an leakshield for the peace of mind. Considering custom loop? feel free to ask me if you have any questions.
I had a brand new system with brand new water cooling. Drips from CPU block to graphics card smoked the whole system and burned pins at GPU. To my amazement, and major props, Thermaltake paid me the cost of my new system. I jammed everything in a box and mailed it back to Thermaltake. Glad to still see Thermaltake still around because that's a company with serious integrity. This was a long time ago, I have no idea what the coolant solution I was using, but I wouldn't be good with anything flowing into components. The industry needs to focus on refrigerant cooling without condensation.
"Putting water into your computer" sounds exactly like putting a "fire inside your house" but of course, nuance is important and the fire is in a chimney and the water is in tubes.
age? not rly more like coolant just shreds through the plastic innertube and removes abit of plastic every time, but mx 8 year old tubes still hold together to this day daily use so..😅@@НААТ
True...but my brain still can't accept that it's a good thing xD xD xD
Ofcourse it's fine... but I simply cannot get over the fact of putting liquids in my electronics xD
@@RicochetForce Fine, you have a great pair of pointers. (zing)
I'll change from "chimneys" to "put gas and lighting it up inside your house" which is actually tubes with gas as well that you light up on the stove. We've had explosions. Is that better?
I hope you don't have a fire in your chimney
@@Mr3ppozz And that's fine, traditional air-cooling is perfectly valid. I water-cool cuz I like it, it's more of a hobby than a necessity.
As a middle aged man with a kid and career, I moved away from water cooling and just invest in higher end air cooling options entirely because if something goes wrong I simply don't have the time to deal with water cooling anymore and I don't want my primary rig down for weeks because I can't find the time to properly fix something. For the same reason I also like larger cases so there is plenty of room to work inside the case.
@@RealGengarTV 3 and 9 months is rough on the time, it gets better though. Mine is 10 and has a PC of his own he spends a lot of time on (programming actually, he might be on that nerd path even earlier than I was).
I'm in my 60s and have a hard time justifying water cooling when I can get something like a Thermalright peerless assassin for less than 40 bucks. No pumps, no tubing no hassle.
Should have kept the water cooled PC and skipped having the kid.
Air is great. I can just build it one time. Let it run and then very rarely clean it a bit... And with something like Noctua even if the fans break it is still big enough to work with only case fan or even passive manner.
@@lifespanofafry1534 Never had either but from what I've heard, the older water cooled systems leaked sometimes but not as much as kids.
"Hell Yea" Let's see that loop order thing...
Hell yeah
Agreed! I've blown people's minds at my job telling them exactly what Jay said. The fluid doesn't have enough time to pick up so much heat that putting your GPU first in the loop versus your CPU makes one scenario better or worse. Put them in what ever order you want to... it's not really going to matter either way, and certainly not going to be damaging to either component if you "mess up" the order. I'd love to see a series of temperature probes set up in a loop to actually show the hard data on this. A lot of people will need to pay attention.
Edit: To Jay's credit, he said it better in this video than I have to my colleagues. I might just have to hold up his example!
Fun facts about loop order: I have two thermal sensors in my system, radiator entrance (hot water) and radiator exit (cold water). In normal case it's about 31C and 30C, so the difference is about 1C after both CPU (14900k), GPU (4090) and two pumps (they also add some heat into water).
If I lock pumps rpm to 800 though cold water is close to room temperature and hot water climbs past 40C. And components temperature also climbs quite high (gpu about 70C). So it's not even about loop order but flow is too low to cool down components.
@@deadlymecuryyeah I ran double temps sensors for a while and pretty much as soon as you start seeing big deltas it’s a sign that pump rpm are probably too low and there’s a flow problem more than anything else.
@@helljester8097 yep. And because of that it would be nice if corsair added delta between sensors as rpm control. In that case you could use difference between hot and cold water to control pump and difference between cold water and room air to control radiator fans.
Interesting anecdote; Both my PS3 and my 360 spent about 30 hours at the bottom of a pool (don't ask), and me and a coworker were able to get them running again by disassembling them, dunking everything in alcohol and letting everything dry before reassembly. That was 11 years ago and both still work.
Wonder if I can do that with my kid's Switch Lite. Probably been too long though lol
@@chexmixkitty If it's been dry for a long time and wasn't charged while it was wet, give it a try. You can't break it more.
A bag of rice works well for drawing moisture out of things that aren't easy disassembled. The issue with a Switch is it has a battery and things have a current when not plugged in so things can short out. That said, I've done it with non-waterproof mobile phones successfully @chexmixkitty
The thing that kills electronics isn't the water itself its the electricity going where its not supposed to, that and letting the magic smoke out.
@@gideonschlen4022 I don't mean any disrespect, but rice doesn't do anything but get rice into small places where it doesn't belong. You're better off just opening the case and letting things air dry if possible.
But yes, the battery in the Switch could be a problem, but it may not be a death sentence.
Watching Jay videos is literally like getting advice from a dad. It has such a warm tone to it with some excellent advice.
Mistakes I've made watercooling over the years:
1. Forgetting to put a drain in my loop.
2. Putting a drain in my loop with a T junction that had a super crappy ball valve attached to it that would free spin 360 degrees on the handle part of the valve instead of just going 0 degrees for on and 90 for off. This was fine for years because I was always smart enough to put a cap in the open end of the ball valve before firing the pc up, until the one time I wasn't. The ball valve was at around 89 degrees instead of 90 and it resulted in something like putting your finger on a garden hose, sprayed coolant straight into my expensive PSU, which then shorted out and died.
3. Thinking I would be fine just diluting my loop of premix coolant with distilled water over and over to the point where it was probably 1/3 premix, 2/3 distilled water. Turns out the chemicals in premix are super important and they stop algae growth among other things. Clogged the loop with gross algae schmoo that made me replace 2 rads and my pump.
4. Used Corsair soft tubing. This stuff is garbage that will kink up super easily and impede flow in your loop. I hate recommending EK products now but their soft tubing is the best I have ever used.
I will never put distilled water in my loop again unless it is to be mixed at the appropriate ratio with a concentrate. Buy enough coolant to sustain your loop until fluid change time, it's worth it.
Imagine....all that time wasted that could have been spent gaming. Slap a D15 on it with a graphene pad and be done with it. Forever. This whole liquid cooling thing is an illness. Like fentanyl addiction.
@@Lurch-BotDunno about that. Slap water in my system, have it run for 2-3 years with zero maintenance, maybe flush it once after that - because why not.
Think my current CPU loop has been running since whenever the 5900X was released, with zero maintenance.
Before that it was the time between the 1800X and 5800X.
Low temps, no noise.. seems fairly decent to me. Price however.. that one I can't beat air on.
.... I just like seeing my GPU at 24c, and my CPU at 26c. And never approaching the 70s, 80s, what not.
Man. What did you do with the loop? Spitting in it? I have few bottles of ‘reserve’ tap water and it sits at my balcony for months and not a single sign of algae
They there are advanced mistakes, meanwhile I am forgetting to remove the tape on my ssd heatsinks
@@Lurch-Bot I didn't buy air cooler in the last 15 years, but are they still controlled solely by the CPU core temperature? I remember I switched to AIO for the sole reason that it wouldn't jump up and down on the fan speed like the CPU temp goes to max and min under a few seconds. I hated the jet engine take off noise air coolers make. Especially on the latest few gens of cpus where they go up to 90-95 °C by design and your fan curve will inevitably go 100% all the time. Meanwhile my AIO barely ever raises fan speed as it's controlled by the water temp, not by the core temp. I don't mind fan noise if it's constant. But controlling fans by CPU temp is hectic as hell and that sudden changes that drove me crazy.
So has any air cooler manufacturer thought of the idea to put temperature probes in their heatsinks, yet? And then perhaps have an onboard fan controller like my Fractal Design AIO has (although it's controlled by delta-T thanks to my MB).
Yes do that temperature comparison.
The biggest myth about watercooling: You got this, bro, it's not that expensive. It's easy, bro.
I really appreciate channels like yours that try to give the viewer the confidence that they can do a task they thought was hard and beyond their skill level. I can't tell you how many videos I've watched to figure out how to fix my car, household appliance, or anything else. I've built computers for 24 years and have never touched water cooling until a few weeks ago when I installed an AIO in my system. Upgraded my AMD CPU and the air cooler just couldn't keep up. It was cheaper to get a 360mm AIO than a good air cooler. So thank you for being one of those channels that tries to boost confidence in people.
YT is great at telling people they can do anything, when, in fact, they cannot. I'm all for learning new skills but there are also bound to be a lot of people out there who will never get this right. This is why being too encouraging can be a bad thing. Of course, Jay isn't the one who is going to pay the price when it all goes horribly wrong so it is easy for him to pump others up to do things that, at least in some cases, constitute bad advice for certain people. If you spent as much time as I do on r/welding, I wouldn't have to explain. Some people are natural welders. Fewer are capable of learning the skill from the ground up. The overwhelming majority of people, when handed a MIG welding torch, will proceed to snot out a bunch of metal boogers that couldn't join themselves, let alone join two pieces of steel plate. It is like suggesting a casual gamer play Elden Ring. That's not what the game is about. You have to enjoy a nice slog through the mud. Your average person won't get it. frankly, I don't get how Starfield is a crap game when it is basically Elden Ring in space...but that's a rant for another day, under the heading of, 'Kids These Days', AKA 'Grow the hell up, Gen Alpha'...
Meanwhile, TechTube has turned into FPS Russia.
@@Lurch-Bot Anyone should be able to do it from about Age 12-13 Upto 90's or 80's aslong as hands still work properly.
If they cannot they would be people with disabilities (be it learning disability or physical limitations.
Its kinda like people who can't drive a manual 25% are just lazy people who don't want to learn.
Most have a Disability that results in a disconnect between their brain and hand/foot to eye coordination.
Also why ALL Pilots can drive a manual without issues even often the first time they drive one they dont stall it,
if you can only drive an automatic you will never be able to get a plane license or if you do will be a bad pilot with uncoordinated turns
@@Lurch-BotI recently did it and made a big mess on my table because I used a small bike pump to leak test, if Jayz didn't give me that tip I would've ruined my computer so the encouragement actually did the opposite of what you think, tldr not everyone is as incompetent as you are.
Thanks. Very good info. I don’t run hot yet because my systems are under powered.
as a 47 year old designer, people need to get over the whole intellectual property thing. If you don't want the public to "steal it" don't show the public your product. It is called the public for a reason.
20:42 Jay's humor when calling himself out for the way he said something is always funny. It was a long day, but this particular line about "or your fingers, well *and* your fingers" had me laughing out loud for a bit.
Mixed metals and soft tubing loop with dual pumps, 360 and 120 mm rads, the fluid is an automotive antifreeze, de-ionized water and hy-per cool mix, I blast it every few months with an aquarium UV light to sterilize the fluid and kill any growth. It's been running almost 5 years - no corrosion, no growth or buildup, no fluid changes just keep it topped up. Your channel really got me started into PC liquid cooling, thanks Jay!
I don't think you need UV light that is pretty overkill. I doubt that antifreeze will grow bacteria, a kill coil and or just not putting it in direct sunlight is enough to avoid algae
take a uv led strip, wrap it around clear tubing and cover with heat shrink. make those led headers useful.
Just got a new case and added a new rad to my loop. No need to upgrade any parts, but I'm glad I got in and added new fluid and cleaned the blocks.. these barrow and barrowch fittings have held up just fine. Reusing parts is awesome
I have used ek, bitspower etc for fittings and I also have a lot of 90 degree fittings from Barrow. I haven't found much between any of them except for price. I like EK torque fittings because they are easy to tighten up but I'll use the Barrow 90's 45's t fittings etc all day long.
I don't water cool for reasons
1. No need in a closed case unless its an open bench.
2. Too many point of failures
3. Min maintaince required
Dude, I have been watching you for many years and am glad that you are getting back to your roots. All this fanboy non-sense and manufacturer drama is not interesting to me at all. I love when you build custom water-cooled systems. All my computers are water cooled. I keep reusing and upgrading my water-cooling components. Some of the computers have had up to 5 or six different motherboards over the years. Please get back to your roots. THX IE: Custom built NZXT H440 case from 2015 with 6mm tempered acrylic door, gutted front drive area and made panels for PS basement, floor and side to mount pump/reservoir.
I would ABSOLUTELY LOVE a video on that loop order deep dive on the Scientific aspects of how the order affects the temps of the fluids! Sounds like an amazing video!!!
As a recovering Chemical Engineering major that did lots of heat exchanger design problems in school, I'd very much like to see inlet and outlet temperature probes on all the components in your water loop and in as many different configurations as possible. Especially interested in getting supply and return temps on as many different models of radiator as possible under differing load conditions.
You say that like the idea of liquid cooling a gaming PC wasn't patently absurd to begin with. WTH kind of scientist are you?!? Surely a chemical engineer must study thermodynamics🤷♀
@@Lurch-Bot I'm sure you're correct, but I'd like to see the data to go with your hypothesis. And since Jay has so kindly offered to gather that data on his own time and money, I see no particular downside to letting him do so and then studying the results. But you do you.
I had no knowledge or experience in watercooling computers. This channel gave me the itch to customize my own PC loop, and I love it. When this thing is finally ready for an upgrade, I'll for sure water cool my next build as well. It is a great way to make a build completely your own.
I’ve been doing custom loops in my personal rig for the last seven years and it started with your videos. I watched your videos over and over and over and finally decided to take the leap and do soft to me. I still do soft tubing, but like you, I’ve switched to the black tubing because of the plasticizer issue.
I'm still stuck on clear and dang it my cursor was hovering over black tubing from Amazon. Should've taken the plunge!
Jay is definitely looking better, that's good. I water cool my pc because it cut the noise way down. Sounded like a jet starting up with the 4090. Now nice and quiet with better cooling.
Jay I water cooled my PC long before anything was available. I made my own parts without any help back around 1990. I just understood that thermal mass is the bottom line. Yes my first time used a heater core out of an 84 cavalier and a fishtank pump. Blocks were all aluminum blocks with fittings drilled in and some fins cut in for passive heat dissipation. No there were no fans on any of it because there was no such thing as motherboard headers. But I could push my system way faster than stock. No temp monitoring in those days so who knows what the real world benefits were. My current system is water cooled also. Nothing fancy expensive it just works.
That's awesome. I made mine in 2004 out of a 77 Bonneville heater core, and a modified fountain pump. I'm still using that heater core.
I think I did my first watercooling around 1996. Fish tank pump, some kind of custom brazed brass or copper waterblock, a reservoir that went into a couple of 5.25" bays and a tiny little radiator. Didnt make as much heat back then, so the crude quality didnt matter so much, but it was fun to do.
@@chrisdrews978 Placebo effect, even on a Pentium. They didn't even use thermal compound on the heatsinks because it was questionable whether you even needed one. I have a NOS Radio Shack Pentium/MMX heatsink and fan in my collection and it would have been overkill unless you planned to overclock. I also have an Am486DX4-120 that came with a small heatsink and fan. But I ran my 486 DX2-66 back in the day at 120MHz and it didn't need a heatsink or fan. I used it for a couple of years for gaming and then sold it to a friend who used it to compile software for a couple more years because my OC tune had it doing integer like a P75 and FP like a P60.
Now we're talking. These are the true hardcore water coolers!
@@Lurch-BotThey absolutely used heatsink compound with those heatsinks. It had been known for decades at that point that a heatsink needs an interface material of some sort.
And it was not "questionable" whether one was needed or not. We were well into "heatsink required" territory at that point.
This video brings around a question I've been dying to ask on the rtfm show. My question is what's the difference in temps between low and high fin density radiators? Love all your content jay and the team.
Yes! Do a whole series on water cooling, please. We need updated information.
I did a custom loop for the first time a few months ago, and hearing that a leak isn't necessarily instant system death is highly comforting. I feel like I knew that in the back of my head, but it's still nice to *hear* it. Also just glad for this channel prepping me for years before I tried a loop myself, turned out pretty great and I didn't forget to buy a single thing!
It was an expensive initial cost, but I don't regret going custom loop one bit. Been using the same pump/res combo, fittings, soft tubing, and CPU block for multiple years now. The GPU blocks when I decide to upgrade are a punch in the gut, but I accept it. My main reasoning for continuing to have a custom loop in my system is silence. 2 60mm 360 rads and a 40mm 280 rad in my system cooling a 14700k and a 7900xtx.
Yeah...CPU blocks are almost eternal, but GPU blocks? Well if you want a different card, you are pretty much screwed (unless you are willing to do awful lot of DIY to make it fit).
I do plan on replacing my EKWB Velocity 2 CPU block with an Alphacool Core 1 Aurora block very shortly.
The reason I use a an aircooled pc is silence. I listen to music with open back headphones and a pump running with a minimum of 2k rpm 24/7 is not helpful.
@@dr.brennstab2201 LOL, my pump is silent at 2k rpm.
@@dr.brennstab2201 Are you in a sound proof room? if not I don't see how you would even be able to notice a pump. I just turned my pump on full blast and its still quieter than the sounds I hear coming from outside my house
Based on a Jayz2cents video, I sucessully built my first custom loop with bending hard clear acrylic including CPU, GPU, VRMs, memory and 2 360 radiators. 2 years later it is still going strong. Thank Jayz!
Would love to see you make a budget watercooled build - Something with not over the top specs but still enough to warrant water cooling, what value that would be and what performance watercooling a system like that would offer etc. I feel like that would be interesting.
That doesn’t make sense. Why would you go through the hassle for a mediocre to barely good cooling? It’s not easy to build a loop for your specific case. It’s a effing b* to clean but required. A proper case is expensive. Unless you’re willing to spend a minimum of $1k minimum (wc parts + case), it’s better to stick with AIO or air cooling.
@@Paul_Sleeping I don't think you understood what I meant. I was saying it would be cool to see a water-cooled build that wasn't an i9 and 4090, maybe something lower high end tier with mid tier water cooling parts for "water cooling on a budget" so to speak.
@@guacamoly-. Gotcha. Sorry I misread.
@Paul_Sleeping meh... you can get away with $300 for a budget CPU loop. With the ability to add in the GPU for around $150 more block + rad(depending on block price). You simple don't have to buy over priced parts... and at the end of the day, you will get the same performance.
As for case. That's just needless gate keeping. A; if your case is remotely modern, it should have space for 1 or two 360mm rads, maybe a 360mm and 280/240. Either of which is enough for all but the highest end PC parts. B; if for some reason it doesn't. There is nothing stopping you from external applications. At worse, you can get a fantastic case for $150. Or a ton of other options in the $70-$120 range.
@@guacamoly-. IMO issue lies with graphic card cooling. Getting full cover for lesser models are rare, and if they are present, that price is going to be... hard to justify, especially for middleweight card. Universal core-only blocks I presume still exist, but then you need to sort out memory and VRM cooling, as those are usually cooled by the same chungus that handles core. Thus, bunch of small radiators to be glued with adhesive pads and/or arranging airflow. Then, any better-ish AIB models have plenty good cooling without being loud, further reducing gains from watering the card.
For CPU cooling only, lets be real - AIOs come in all shapes and flavors and they are almost universally cheaper than DIY loop while having similar to identical performance. And then nothing stops you from modifying it - longer/different tubing, adding reservoir of sorts for filling and bleeding. Unsure if pump can handle extra resistance of adding GPU block into the loop though.
I also bought a load of fittings and most of them are Dracaena and they do look fairly good and I would have never of thought to do so but after seeing you video a while back and actually having them in my hands they do look quite good even next to the corsair parts I have. The only reason I did end up buying them was because of the EKWB EK-Tube ZMT having an I/D of 9mm rather than 10mm that my current tubing has, and the Barb fittings I bought come with 13mm hose clamps which are to small to stretch round the hose when fitting on the barb so you will need bigger clamps . The 15mm ones I bought do fit and they are very snug and are wider but does sit between the barb and the knurled area of the fitting.
So here's my part list that will allow me to redo my loop.
*KEALBAUS 15Pcs Barb Fitting Water Cooling Radiator for G1/4 Chromed Copper Water-Cooled Heat Sink for Pc Computer* £14.40
*Sourcing map 10pcs 15mm Spring Band Type Action Fuel/Silicone Vacuum Hose Pipe Clamp Low Pressure Air Clip Clamp, Nickel Plated* £5.69
*Dracaena 6 pack G1/4" thread, Male to Male Mini Extender Fitting with tighten O-ring, Compression fitting for Computer Water Cooling System, Silver* £24.96
*Sourcing map Male to Female Extender Fitting G1/4 x 25mm for Water Cooling System Silver Tone 6pcs* £14.99
*Dracaena 6 pack G1/4" thread Male to Female Extender Fitting, 90° Rotary Enhance Multi-Link Adapter Fitting for Computer Water Cooling System, Silver* £19.99
*Richer-R G1/4 Water Fitting Splitter, G1/4 Thread 3 Way T Shape Fitting Splitter Adapter for PC Water Cooling System* £5.96
*Corsair Hydro X Series XF Fill/Drain Valve - Chrome (CX-9055020-WW)* £18.39
Once the Light Base 900/600 come out, there are going to be some very incredible looking horizontal layout builds in that thing.
I'm looking forward to it.
I'm thinking of doing a Light Base 600 horizontal build.
My best myth bust was trying to explain to people that the loop will saturate and all components will receive the same temperatures. After trying to argue the point to exhaustion and annoyance, I just finally started referring people to your channel and videos. Thank you and your team for the work you do and all of the great video's and insight. You are a boon not only for us experienced types, but also for beginners. Please continue to do what you do, and we all look forward to the new expansion.
Roughly the same temps anyways, it can be a few C difference. My system runs a difference of 2c or so under load between the output of the rads and the output of the heat load (I have temperature sensors in both places). It depends on your flow, which is another major myth that you need a huge flow rate.
Once in 2001 I had a PC in a high tower which was on the floor and my dog then decided to piss in to my pc and the cabinet was open so everything inside was completely wet with piss. The craziest thing was that there was power but it wasn't on, I removed the power cable and removed all the cables from it and rinsed it with distilled water inside and dried it. When I turned my PC back on it worked perfectly, I guess it just proves that electronics are tougher than you imagine.
i think the dog was mad at your computer, the dog wanted to go out more with his owner😉🐶🐶
I came back to your videos when I am planning todo the upgrade and man. I can tell your contributing aloooot to the community. Thank you Jay! I'm sure alot of us will mention you to their kids that there was a guy on RUclips taught me how todo alot of computer stuff.
You might try purified water plus a small amount of copper sulfate. We use it in agriculture to keep algae from growing in water storage tanks.
That's what old PT Nuke is but you don't want to use it with nickel plating it'll ruin it, if you only have copper / brass it'll be fine but most blocks aren't available as copper unfortunately :(
Just mix in some antifreeze.
That's gonna make your coolant acidic. Not a great idea for the application. Also, while deionized water is unlikely to cause a short if it leaks, if you put copper sulphate in the water, it will ensure it is conductive.
Thanks for all this information. Never wanted to try water cooling over the fear of a leak happening and drying the whole system. Maybe I’ll give it a try later this year with a new build.
A lot of people don't understand that 300 watts of heat is 300 watts of heat no matter what the actual temperature is or in other words 300 watts of heat at 70C = 300 watts of heat at 80C
However the advantage of 300 watts at 70C is your CPU or GPU can clock a little bit faster but even that difference only means a couple percent increase in FPS or 1 - 3 FPS which is essentially unnoticeable in actual gameplay.
You are confusing a few things. The CPU wattage isn't a fixed value being always dissipated. What happens is, given the tasks being processed, the operating frequency increases, which increases the wattage (wattage is proportional to the square of the frequency). If the computer has a safeguard limit set (for example, a maximum temperature), the CPU throttles the frequency to keep the temperature at the set limit. When that limit is reached, the wattage decreases (due to the throttling). The current CPU's and main boards allow as well throttling due to current, power (wattage), or other things.
Aerospace engineer here specializing in heat transfer and hydraulics. Definitely agree with loop order. I've posted various versions of the following on Reddit at least a few times:
Given the specific application of consumer PCs, order does not matter if flowrate through the heat exchanger(s) is sufficiently high to impel turbulent flow. In Engineering, turbulent flow can be predicted by finding the Reynold’s number of your flowing fluid in a given tube of the heat exchanger. The higher the Reynold's number, the "more turbulent" (to put it simply), and higher Reynold's numbers correlate well with heat transfer efficiency. Turbulent flow can be visualized as little fluid whirlpools and eddies constantly shifting particles around and changing their positions, so heat has a chance to quickly make it to heat exchange interfaces (such as where the fluid physically contacts the surface of a metal heat exchanger) and get transferred out of the system via physics.
On the opposite end, slower flow rates will more likely impel laminar flow through any given tube, and laminar flow is not good for heat transfer efficiency. During laminar flow, fluid movement is relatively uniform, where the "inner volume" of the fluid swaps with the "outer volume" of the fluid much less often and much less dramatically. Both those characteristics together (slow flowrate, fluid flow that is more characteristically laminar) will yield a measurable temperature drop across any given heat exchange interface. As a consequence, you’ll be more likely to detect a significant fluid temperature difference between the inlet of your heat exchanger and its outlet. So detecting a temperature difference at all across any component means your system as a whole is far from operating at optimal thermal transfer efficiency.
If your pump is sufficiently powerful, turbulent flow is achieved through the heat exchanger tubes, and instead of there being a significant difference between the inlet and outlet temperatures across a single component, you instead achieve a *steady state system temperature.* In this state, component order does not matter. The steady state system temperature of a heat rejection system with a very high reynolds number in the heat exchanger will always be lower than the average system temperature of a system where flowrate is insufficient to drive turbulent flow. Of course, this assumes all else equal, such as your fans being operational and the airflow setup.
A single, say, D5 pump is significantly more than powerful enough to achieve this steady state system temp with minimal discernible temperature difference across any component. That system is typically 1 cpu, 1 gpu, and two heat exchangers. Even then, that single pump can accommodate more components than most would probably think.
There are fringe cases, such as when specific components generate extreme amounts of heat. These cases do not exist in individual consumer PCs.
A more efficient transfer of heat will only make the space hotter if it means the components can run at higher power limits. How fast heat transfers doesn't have an effect on the total energy outputted unless some other factor changes. At most it might affect how fast your room gets hot, but that's about it.
Turn the AC on.
thank you.
Came here to say this but you beat me to it. Jay probably meant that with more efficient cooling come higher power limits and that's why his room gets hotter.
Exactly. 300 watts of heat is 300 watts whether it's removed by air to air exchange or water to air.
@@JonRacesCars 300 watts in an hour or in 10 minutes is very different. Especially in a badly ventilated room.
You're the reason why I was confident in doing my loop after watching every watercolling video you have. Helped out a TON.
I have actually cooled my PC room with water cooling. I have no pump or reservoir in the PC, I have quick disconnects on the back of the machine, and run EPDM tubing up to the corner of the wall and ceiling, through a wall, down the hall, and into my house's central air return. the pump, and radiator are on a 3d printed stand, and a small file server PC is also in there, cooled on the same loop. The 480mm radiator fans and pump are powered by a small independent wall plug 12v adapter. my pc room temps dropped around 10-12f just by pumping the heat out of the room. it's a four liter system.
I always fantasised about having an external loop and put the rad outdoor in winter. :D
Just out of curiosity, if you put the rad in the central air return, wouldn't that be the extracted air? That air would be the at the same temp as in your rooms it gets extracted from, no? How is it lower still than your room temp?
@@TeasutiI would be worried about condensing from the blocks when that freezing glycol/antifreeze comes from the radiator outside.
holy shit man
@@Simon_Denmark yes, it would wreak havoc in the PC. But it would be chilled while it lasts. 😄
@@Teasuti the central air return is the entire house's air return. I'm not moving the heat outside of the house, the ac is doing that as part of its normal duty. By putting the radiator in the central air return I am eliminating the problem of the specific room the pc is in heating up and getting much warmer than the rest of the house, without having a thermostat for the room and retrofit dampers on the central ac system.
@JayzTwoCents I totally understand the "hot room while streaming" issue. You've probably already considered this, but just in case... a window AC unit 100% solved this problem for me. I have completely capable central AC, but when my streaming room door is closed, my PCs and lights just cook the room! The window AC unit has made streaming SOOO much better! Just make sure you at *least* have an audio gate on OBS to help with the noise. It's completely doable!
“Ambient temperature is important”
My Iraqi ass:💀
I completed my own water loop a week back. I bent hardline tubbing. I owe this channel a lot for the motivation and quick tips when bending. If I can do it, so can you. I had many reservations when approaching this project. But I powered through and my new rig is B-E-A-Utiful.
Do it with Pyrex tubing and I might be impressed. Any fool can bend some PVC tube.
8:16 The algae is just part of my Aquaman theme
I did my first custom loop build a couple months ago, it was very scary at first. Especially taking a very expensive gpu apart, but by just making sure all the parts fit and I had the right tools it wasn't that hard. I thought of doing soft tubing but I found some pre bent hard tubing so all I had to do was cut them to size. If anyone has any questions about what I did feel free to ask!
After watching this channel for a long while, I built a custom loop for my 3080TI. Eventually, I needed to clean my loop, touch-up the thermal paste... basic maintenance, really. I used a bunch of isopropyl alcohol during the cleaning and when I put everything back together, it looked like I killed my card.
In the end, I just hadn't waited long enough for the alcohol to evaporate. Isopropyl alcohol evaporates quickly, but impurities can mean a much longer dry time than you expect.
if you used 70/30 yeah. most of the ones on the shelf at the market are 70/30 because it disinfects better with some water in it. but theres usually a small single 90+% bottle too at the markets too. I managed to find one that is 99%. evaporates in a couple seconds.
Yeahhhh... liquid cooling isn't really for people like you.
@@Lurch-Bot Yeahhhh... this comment section isn't really for people like you.
Thanks for sharing that knowledge and, as you said "Reason channels like mine exist is to make stuff, that seems daunting, approachable for first-timers" (not exactly word-for-word but that was the gist of it), thank you for that as well.
Throughout my PC user career, I was like "I clean it myself and at max I exchange a RAM stick, but more than that no, I don't want to break a hardware component by accident and cause hundreds of Euros in damage".
Channels like yours and Subreddits dabbling in PC building and reading there actually gave me confidence to dabble deeper, see that it is not that hard and daunting as it seemed and this or next year I wanna try to build my next PC entirely myself from scratch!
Thanks for giving less experienced people, me included, that confidence!
Yeah, coolers don't cool, they move heat. Home AC systems move heat from inside to outside.
My first video I watched of yours what “how to water cool a computer.” Because of you I’ve been water cooling for 11 years. External rad(s) still, Basic-B bitspower barbs, barb clamps, Primochill Advanced LRT soft tubing, PHN PT Nuke (still), distilled water. Never a leak, never a problem with growth, plasticizer leaching, or anything. Multiple upgrades, have not had any issue, reused some tubes just down to laziness. Started with an Intel 4570T, going strong now with an AMD 3950X, basically the same setup, still the same Lian Li VCR lookin case.
Guys... look at the profile pic on some of the comments so your brain can realize that it's a bot And report it!
Most times it's a pretty lady or a butt pic anyway so it's Not hard to recognise. Nevermind that the account is often less than 1-2 days old!
Don't be dummies and comment / like its comment... just report or ignore them 🤷♂️
Jay is so real.
Though I knew about these myths, it's still nice to hear him speak about them.
Although I'm not an expert, I like to do research before I purchase items and/or perform project ideas.
However, I did learn a few things while watching this video. And as a owner of a mini-itx PC with a full custom water loop, it's pretty important knowledge. Recently, I moved my PC into the Fractal Mood.
What a timing, i was just looking for aome watercooling videos from you :D
I just love the look of water cooling, can be unnecessary if you *DON’T* configure correctly. But seeing a well thought plain loop with nice bends , beautiful!! . Next loop is gonna be black tubing for sure , 6 months left till next flush !!!!!
"Moooaan custom water loops are a pain..."
Use soft tubing
Use quick disconnects
Use an AIO instead?
Switch components less maybe?
I could go on 😂
That all said, there are deffinitely downsides of course but I would say you only go full custom if you get the top of the line stuff 🤷♂️
Kinda. If you want to go all new with loop, it will not be cheap, you can get a perfectly fine AIO for price of the half CPU loop. Not to mention that anything less then top tier stuff is easily coolable by whatever cheapest twin tower you can find.
@@alexturnbackthearmy1907 True, true.
The problem is that most gamers dont see any benefit running an aio.
A properly specced system should always see the GPU at 100% load and the cpu below that. Doing anything else means you should have gotten a cheaper cpu and spent the savings on the GPU.
Watercooling a gpu can pick up 10-20% performance increase in fps, while running at a lower temp.
Unless you are working a CPU with some kind of production work, an aio is kinda a waste of money.
@Saddedude you will not see a 10-20% fps bump. You won't even see double digit synthetic score bump by running max boost consistently. A 10-20% fps boost is a full GPU tier upgrade. Hell, my 3080 which is one of if not the highest scoring non actively chilled cards, only picked up about 7% in synthetic tests. And that's at 425w, Boosting to 2.1Ghz.
You can force you GPU to hold boost clocks with out excessive cooling. And even holding max clocks, it's barely above margin of error, vs oscillating.
As for an AIO. It doesn't hurt. And with some CPUs is gonna behave better as they can tolerate quick spikes. They can also be useful for case pressure optimization, and of course sff.
@@Saddedude Sure, between a good AIO and an Air Cooler is not much difference in terms of temps/performance.
Even the noise level can be similar.
I guess it comes to what fits best for a specific system and that an AIO Can often be quiter under higher loads.
I used an Aveks water block on my last custom loop, $20 from Amazon for an all-copper water block that keeps my 11700K @ 5.3GHz running just fine. I miss the old days of making a water block out of a heatsink, plexiglass, and glue, using a K5 Blazer heater core for a radiator, and a pond pump plumbed to an automotive coolant overflow bottle but I'm glad we have the options we do now.
I remember my first custom loop, I had to refinance my house
I will always use black EPDM rubber tube. I’ve been reusing the same sets of tube and just trimming for new builds since 2018. Same fittings just cleaned them. Saved me SO much money over the years when doing water cooling.
If your looking toward water cooling to keep your space cooler, you're looking at moving the radiator out the window. There is a series of additional challenges to move the heated water out the window decently such as pump pressure, solar heat, window air sealing, and so on.
Back to the old days of external radiators
Pretty sure it would require a custom loop that pumps in and out of your window AC unit at that point.
its much easier with air coolers. you can just do a closed exhaust towards the window.
@StrazdasLT any air pushed out will be replaced with air being pulled in somewhere. Path of least resistance often means from an exhaust vent such as from the hot water heater creating a potential carbon monoxide problem.
@@marxmaiale9981 Normal homes dont have water heaters, they use hot water mains.
I used to use tygon clear tubing and swaglok fittings when I built loops 20+ years ago. Modern fittings are so cheap and good, folks have no idea how good thing are these days. Definitely something everyone should try if they're interested. Everything is easy and you can get everything off the shelf, no more DIY required.
Let's GO! I hope your health is getting better Jay.
Really fell in love with watercooling through your channel and i'm currently saving up for my next pc that will be watercooled. My biggest question is balancing heat load of the components and size/number of rads, especially when it comes to smaller form factors. Would love to see you talk about this stuff.
Really wanna do my first custom loop build on my first non prebuilt pc
Build a pc first trust me
If you need the extra cooling for a workstation pc with a lot of cores to cool, go for it. If we are talking about a gaming pc. Just don't. It's totally not worth it.
@@dr.brennstab2201 absolutely not worth it from value perspective, this would be a passion build I wanna so steampunk theme
@@dr.brennstab2201what if people like it… it’s the same thing as wrapping a car or going to an expensive restaurant… to each their own why would you tell someone not to do it when it is something they just want to have?
Just make sure to fully attach things O...O
Water cooling is fine, if you actually need that level of cooling. Most really don't. The one thing that isn't a myth is that custom loops are usually more expense than function.
Heat has to go somewhere so it is going into your room unless you can pump it outside. It doesn't just go away.
Funny but, this video actually taught me to appreciate water in my country a bit more, hearing him talking about tap water and "how dirty it is", actually in my country everyone drinks tap water since its really clean over here.
I'm not doubting your water is cleaner than ours, but 95% of the US has crystal clear 100% drinkable water.
The "dirtiness" he was talking about was invisible traces of minerals and organisms found in all tap water everywhere around the world.
Even if your water out of your sink is perfectly clear and has no smell or visible particles suspended in it, you still don't want to use it in a PC because all it takes is a few ppm of gunk and the warmth from the components to cause unwanted growth.
i think you missed his point. it's not that it's "dirty", it's that all water has particles in it, whether it's minerals, chlorine(treated water), fluoride and other natural and added chemicals within the water. there is no such thing as natural "clean" water. there is drinkable and undrinkable water but all water is contaminated, just some of those in small quantities aren't bad for you. if you ever wonder what your water is really like, see if they post it online or ask your local water company for a copy of the water test results.
Good drinking water contains lots of minerals. Just lemme put it that way:
If you drink the water that your cooling needs, you will die from it. If your cooling gets the water you need to drink, it will die. And your tap-water cooled PC will still outlive the distilled water fed you.
You know, around the time I built my current system (although a bit late to keep me from one or two mistakes) I found your channel and used your various tips and hints for a lot of tweaking and improving and stuff.
What you also managed is completely (well almost) take away my reservations against watercooling. I always found it cool, but it seemed to me very risky and I never dared try it. Now I'm currently running my first AiO (mainly because my cheap-ish case fans were making expensive noises and there was a sale and I got a 280 BeQuiet AiO for about the same it'd have cost me to get higher-quality replacement case fans). My next build (if all goes well later this year, otherwise sometime next year) will be my first custom watercooled build.
But, even though you're "the watercooling guy" - you've already helped me no end in improving and troubleshooting my current build and also getting rid of some stuff I didn't need. I also really like your way of presenting and the team, so thanks a lot and I'll be looking forward to the next video(s). Cheers from Germany!
I have no problem with using water cooling. My problem is the amount of effort and money it costs to build a custom loop. The idea is great but the amount of maintenance needed is beyond my idea of fun! I use an AIO and it's fine. Why would I put so much effort into building a custom loop that won't last as long as my AIO? If you find it fun to build such a system, then good luck to you! My present system includes a Corsair 360 AIO and I'm happy with the result. At present I've been using it for 9 months and I expect to keep it for at least another 2 years no matter what other components I upgrade. 😇😇😇
The upfront cost is high sure but maintenance is not that big. Take one day a year to do a full system clean, blow out dust and drain and refill the loop. If there's block buildup, take it apart, clean it and do it back up. Take a day at most. If you need to upgrade the only ongoing cost is new blocks. Radiators are pretty much good for a decade or more. Pumps are easy enough to replace but generally stable.
@@prototypep4 I appreciate your input but a day's effort to maintain a loop is still more than I want to contemplate. The only maintenance I want to contemplate is dusting and cleaning every now and again!. I don't live in a dusty area so it takes very little effort to keep my PC clean. I guess you could say I'm too bloody lazy but hey! I'm a curmudgeonly old git! I make no apology! 😂😂😂
yes the cost is more for custom and AIOs are great for ease of install, the ability to add more rads is what swings it for me. You don't even have to drain your loop every year if it's just water and biocide and if the pump breaks, you can fix it or replace it.
@@JohnCraig-y6f the better and quieter performance is what does it for me. My system has 3 420mm rads in it. I can keep even a gpu under load cool with near silent performance. You just can't match that with an AIO and stock gpu. I mean you could go something like a suprim card but at that point may as well just have a custom loop.
I still use heater cores, gear pumps and a 5 gallon bucket. The only thing I've upgraded over the years is the 'reservoir' going to a metal canister with a 7" t-bolt clamp so I can flush the system once in a great while. 👌
Thank you for a bit of education on this subject, your time and efforts are appreciated.
My personal opinion from experience working with 5 different desktop computers (4 purchased refurbished and the first being new) is that air cooling has worked okay for my needs.
I do not use any games that push a machine to the limits yet dabble with Blender 3d program and create tons of digital paintings and graphic arts images. The only problem I have ever had with a computer over heating to the point of destroying a motherboard was the first computer I bought. My first experience with a personal owned computer was a new Pavillion HP with an Intel Pentium 4 including a dedicated Nvidia graphic card, purchased at Comp USA around 2004. That computer after several years of use one day shut down as a result of defective capacitors on the motherboard that burned out and allowed excessive heat to circulate. Pentium 4's are known to run very hot and require certain heatsinks. After looking into this problem I found information about how a lot of capacitors from the Pacific rim had been used on the production of certain computer brands that were defective and caused this unfortunate problem, my specific model was on the list of victims. I am not knowledgeable enough to know if having a watercooling system on that air cooled desktop would have prevented the dead end experience. Outside of that computer the four refurbished ones have worked continuously air cooled, including an older HP Compaq SFF with a Pentium 4 (32 bit cache) that has always run hot with air cooling yet very reliable and still usable for off-line use and also occasionally with Linux Debian 12 on-line.
I have recently been looking at new computer desktops and leaned more towards advanced air cooling. Funny you mention how people compare auto cooling to a computer machine, I did that exact comparison. All I know is that when a water pump goes on a car you have leakage that always leads to a hose breaking open somewhere, seemed to me the same potential problem would result on a water cooled computer with potential risk to the motherboard or other components.
If you had a retail store available in the city where I live, that is where my next purchase would be for a new desktop although that would be advanced air cooling. Find your videos here informative and educational.
I just want a water blocked GPU without spending an extra $300 for it. I swear it used to only cost like $150. Maybe I’m remembering wrong
Yeah my Phanteks 3090 blocks were $200 and 100-120 back in the GTX 400 series era, material cost did raise a bunch though which sucks.
If your water gets blocked, you fry GPU.
Get a byski block and a founders edition card. Save money and get better performance.
Running a byski on my 4070ti and it’s been fantastic.
@@Lurch-Botthere is literally a safety feature in the pumps for flow, if flow stops it emergency shuts down your pc.
@@Lurch-Botyou should use a filter for all the loop before hit CPU GPU
Hello Jay,
I have drained the liquid from my PC, after 917 days. I would stick to clear liquid and a few drops of Mayham concentrate and there is loop with clear and un-gunked coolant. I switched to a 7800X3D and it works like a charm.
People are afraid of water cooling due to miss conception. It requires little maintenance comparing to air / AIO systems.
PS - greetings from Romania.
OK, now do a video about water cooling myths that are TRUE. 😏
I scrolled down specifically to find this comment.
De-ionized water really won't short out your running PC. PEG is probably the only thing you should use in a custom loop. And gremlins are real. You should be particularly wary of them if you desire to do a completely pointless liquid cooling setup on your gaming PC. Things never go more wrong than when you are acting out of pure vanity. If liquid cooling were really useful on a PC, it would be on every Omen; every MSI gaming laptop. The people who advocate for it haven't even studied Physics 101. I've had enough physics to know that the narrow temp differential makes any liquid cooling setup on a PC an exercise in ignorance. You'd be just as well off strapping a 5lb chink of copper to your CPU. Water isn't magic and you're just adding a really big heatsink that a poser like you will never heat saturate to the point of equilibrium, the point at which your fans will be making just as much noise as a purely air cooled build.
You can hype all you want but it won't change the laws of physics.Based on the present hype-weather, it is a myth that water cooling a PC is purely for aesthetics. But that isn't a myth because it is a true statement.
Myths aren't true
@@maiar4505 whoosh
What isnt a myth here?
I’ve had two bykski water blocks and I love the way they look and the performance and build quality are great.
There are two highly recommended tools, even when doing soft tubing.
Tube cutter, will make things so much quicker and easier. Can use a sharp utility knife, but easier to get straight cuts with tube cutter (the type that look like scissors).
Hand air pump with pressure gauge, will make having a properly sealed loop far more certain, if air isn't leaking, then water won't leak.
Always feel free to hit us up with that water cooling content Jay. Your channel is one of the key contributors to pushing me to finally trying to make my own custom loop. That was around six-seven years ago and I am never going back. Yeah it is pricey, but it gives you the best possible pc temps (components anyway), cuts my heating bill in winter (lol), is kinda stressful but fun to do, and gives you a PC that is unique to you.
Jay, I would love to see a practical build, for those whose priorities are 1) quiet, 2) easy service, 3) smaller and lightweight. In particular, I am thinking Koolance quick disconnect fittings. Small diameter rubber neoprene hose - either 1/4” or 3/8” inner diameter hose. Easy removal of GPU, CPU, change of NVME M.2 without draining loop.
Consider reservoir/pump with 2 manifolds - in and out. Connect parallel loops for each item, rads, CPU, GPU, to the manifolds - no serial loops. Using 1/4” diameter rubber hose is so flexible and corresponding quick connectors are small (but expensive). 4/5 parallel loops have more area than typical 10 mm hard tubing, so pressure loss should not be an issue. May need a controllable valve to balance flows so low pressure drop rads don’t take all of the fluid flow.
Hell yeah. A deep dive would be helpful. I'm soon to start my first water cooling loop with hard tubing, and your videos have always been helpful to me on this pc building journey.
I did a full custom loop a few years ago because I wanted a silent PC, however, one thing I learned is that I probably would not do a custom loop again. mostly because of the maintenance, every year to change the coolant, clean blocks, rads, drain the system, get rid of the bubbles..etc just too much work. it can literally take a full day minimum or more than a full day if I am going to check and replace the old PETG tubing, o-rings in the fittings..etc
Another big factor is that when there's hardware failure, it's a pain in the ass to troubleshoot.
AIO or even air cool is much more appealing.
Making your space warmer is a great feature of watercooling. The spot were I game has a normal temp of 5-20C. So in winter my cooling system is so efficient that it keeps my room at a fully livable 17C. Summer time is a biy worse, but opening windows generally works well. :)
The point the video made is that the PC would heat your room the same amount whether you had water cooling or no water cooling, assuming you were running the same tuning / overlock of course.
It is Monsoon that makes the convertible fittings. I own some and they work well. A retention ring gets glued to the end of the tubing with the screw down ring already on the tube, behind the retention ring. Then when you screw down the outer ring to the fitting on the radiator/block/reservoir it presses the retention ring on the end of the tube into a gasket and seals everything. The retention ring doesn't allow the tubing to come out of the screw down part of the fitting because of the way the Monsoon compression fittings are designed. ModMyToys makes a variation of the fittings with carbon fiber accents also. Those look REALLY nice. I have them in my current system. All of these items are available at PPCs!
As always a wealth of information Jay; Thank you. My go to for liquid cooling is frozencpu,
Listening to an out-pouring of your knowledge and experience is excellent, and inspiring, Jay! Thanks.
Man, the first thing I did after building my water cooled rig was upgrade the room to have an integrated AC unit, I would almost say its essential. Those free standing units are OK but they create almost as much heat as they remove, not to mention the noise.
Definitely appreciate this video. Very much looking forward to that temperature difference video, if you can make that happen.
Definitely also agree with the notion of going with soft tubing for the loop. i use vinyl tubing for mine, in part because I was able to source a 20-ft roll of it for $10... at that price, I can literally afford to just throw out the old stuff when cycling new coolant every six months. That said, I do wish those old-school silver coils with the biocide were still readily available, since then I could get away with using distilled water instead of having to use a pre-mixed coolant.
in 2008 I lost some expensive parts, not directly by water contact, but because the pump broke and the water literally boiled in the blocks.
(Thermal throttling was a thing on CPU's then, but GPU's and motherboard chipsets apparently not.)
The pump itself died because of water though, a plexiglass part cracked and let water into the electronics side which corroded, stopping the water flow.
Never again plexiglass. And never had an issue since, been watercooling for 2 decades.
Loop order doesn't matter if you have enough pressure to flow properly. The whole 'thing' is from when people were using pond pumps that barely put out any pressure, and needed huge inflexible hoses to flow any water at all. Liang DDC and D5 pumps fixed that for a lot of people, and we've gotten so spoiled with all the good options since. :)
Related, a myth, you "need" 1/2" ID hose for watercooling. :'D
Started with soft tubing a couple of years ago and recently went to hard tubing. You're right, the prices have become a lot more reasonable. Bykski and Dracaena offer good value.
You're looking good, Jay.
I've been a strictly aio girl but have been entertaining making the jump to custom build. I think it may be wise to first try on a secondary rig in case it springs a leak!
Yes. I want to see the temperature comparison loop.
Also, this was great. I learned a lot and I’m thinking about building a new PC and water cooling it soon.
Water cooling will not make your room cooler unless you are using a MoRa external radiator and 25 feet of tubing to move the radiator into a different room, or to a window. (That is what I am setting up right now for my next ThreadRipper system.)
for me its the price watercool pc sound fantastic but right now prices are all over the place and having someone like you that will take the time to test the budget pc parts will be a life saver so that way we dont overspend in something that maybe be 2 to 5 degrees of heat more than the high end watercool parts
Jay I have soft tubing from my starting build so it is 15years old, those old tubes are kinda flexible but are still super clear. But I never ever mixed my water with additives other then what you really need. So I can say in my case the clear tubes can still be clear if you had the right tubing. I had different tubes over the years and two other clear tubes are so freaking soft but those are milky now. So it really depends on what material you really got for the tubing. I recon its the same for black tubes.
Would love to see the 'between component' temp measurement deep drive. Not because I think it's necessarily important, I've seen aspects of it enough to know you're right, but it'd be cool to see the numbers and everything. Always love the science side of things when you guys tackle it.
1. Watercooling doesn't make your room colder
2. Leaks doesn't always ruin a system (not using tap water)
3. Cheap options for loop parts now exist
4. LOOP ORDER DOES NOT MATTER (because of the small size of a PC loop and small delta of temps)
5. Making a custom loop is not that hard especially for soft tubing
So this channel was a major inspiration for my first water-cooled PC. It even got me into modding my PC. I don't think I'll ever go back to air.
1- Room Temperature - Its the opposite actually, Rule of Thumb though, The larger the space/room the less internal space needed inside the case, the smaller the space the more internal space needed inside the case itself, This may seem counterintuitive but its a Thermal Dynamics thing. Best thing you can do is cycle air I found having an exhaust fan ceiling in the room like a Bathroom venting system can solve the issues of an overheated space or room, heat rises so you skim the air off the top every half hour to hour or so and it will keep the room from getting too hot.
2- Linus flooded his entire server thanks to a broken Connection, I don't think he had any issues, Water Cooling Fluid is not conductive as long as you are on a maint. schedule of drain and fills.
3- Cost - You can get some cheap stuff on Amazon from China that isn't bad, some of the stuff they warehouse here in the US so you don't have to deal with long shipping and Customs BS.
4 - Loop Order matters but not for the reasons you are talking about, Some Blocks are high pressure and some blocks are low pressure, grant it its only really going to matter a couple C at best, but if you are the min Maxxer, CPU blocks are high pressure GPU blocks are low pressure, Temperatures will always normalize over time and the difference is within margin of error unless you are super stacking Thermal efficiency methods to make a larger difference.
I've done a few loops for friends using Bykski / Barrow parts and they came in at about half the cost of the same stuff in EK. Systems all still running with no complaints.
I love your water cooling videos. I learned and built my first hardline custom build by watching your videos. More please. Thanks.
From a complete novice: if you watch a couple of Jayz water cooling videos, they covered everything I needed to know. Hardline isn't hard; just be sure to have the right tools!
Hey Jayz ... here is something I would enjoy seeing .. it would be really cool to see you do a build with one loop , dual pump ... I tried to that in my 900D but could never get it to work , always kept leaking so figured it was to much flow and pressure .. dual loop worked fine , but would be interesting to see a single loop dual pump ... Please ..
I love the PPC guys .. they are the best , I will only buy from them ..
Jayz Science Episodes are always so entertaining and helpful to newer builders. I'd be interested in a loop order temp comparison.
Not only the increased heat transfer can heat up your room faster with watercooling, the lower component temperature also can lead to higher boosts and power consumption and this way increase the output even further.
And for cleaning after a leak, I have a colleague whose GPU tube popped off in use due to overpressure and flooding his card. I disassembled it for him, used pressurised air to blow the water from below the components like core and VRAM, flushed it with destilled water, pressurised air again, 99% rubbing alcohol and pressurised air again. It works without issues since. Luckily he didn’t kill it when he powered it on before I cleaned it, he just got a blocky image from the water under at least one VRAM chip.
I just finished my first custom loop, biggest reason being loud GPU fans, it wasn't cheap but also didn't break the bank, went with almost full Alphacool build, and luckily I can reuse the block for a long time to come, quite happy with the results, still need to buy an leakshield for the peace of mind.
Considering custom loop? feel free to ask me if you have any questions.
I had a brand new system with brand new water cooling. Drips from CPU block to graphics card smoked the whole system and burned pins at GPU. To my amazement, and major props, Thermaltake paid me the cost of my new system. I jammed everything in a box and mailed it back to Thermaltake. Glad to still see Thermaltake still around because that's a company with serious integrity.
This was a long time ago, I have no idea what the coolant solution I was using, but I wouldn't be good with anything flowing into components. The industry needs to focus on refrigerant cooling without condensation.