Nice use of the gutter. Your grounding is spot on in my opinion. Grounding between AC/DC conversion is something that is still not quite perfected, in my opinion. When in doubt overground, unless it messes with neutral/ground separation, necessary for GFI's to work..
This is great! I love how clean you're doing it and making sure to follow code. I hope mine comes out as clean. I still need to find some of those dang wireways lol.
They're not too expensive and work great if you have the space for them! www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Milbank-6648-Gsc1-Nema-1-Screw-Cover-Wireway/5775676?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8-HH4N766AIVj8DICh0KbgrFEAQYAiABEgIFc_D_BwE
Woot! I had no idea inverters could be clustered into a "three-phase system or up to four devices in a double split-phase system". What a time to be alive :-)
Just an FYI as per the SMA SI inverter manual. "The AC cables between the Sunny Island and the sub-distribution of a system must have the same wire size and the same cable length for all parallel connected devices" This is a cool channel. Thanks for sharing your projects and knowledge.
I'm in the Process to install a Dual MagnaSine 48vdc an Upgrade to my old Systems when I get back to the Philippines and I enjoyed your Video it's very informative but sad to say I don't have the Liberty of Having All those Cool Tools and Gadgets I shipped all the necessary Hardwares for the Upgrades which I got from Northern Arizona Wind and Sun and some Straight from Magnum Power in Washington. Can't wait to Start this Project and make it neat and Professionally Installed..
If you are back feeding into the 60amp breaker, does it work as a breaker then? I'm curious as to why you didn't just attach the inverter wires to the top terminals, like the two 100amp lines/phases? would attach in your main breaker panel from the local electric company? The only reason I as is I'm looking to do the same configuration at my house. Thanks in advance!
I am wondering that too. I have an off grid home I am building and one of the DC trailers that I will be eventually transferring the equipment off of and into the home and want to bring the 240AC from the two inverters and bring into my main service panel just like a normal service entrance would be setup.
So I am running the LV6548. I want to connect it to my trailers main breaker. My plan was to disconnect the grid wires that were cut from the grid when the trailer was moved and connect the LV6548 in their place. I will not being using anything over 120v so I will be keeping any breakers over 120v off. What do you think?
Anything is doable, but there are some precautions to consider. 1. Try having a transfer switch between the main panel, and the inverter. The transfer switch can then be used to switch between the inverter, and some other input such as a generator. This way, if the inverter goes down, you can still run loads with a generator. 2. I'm a fan of making it impossible to accidentally screw something up. We are all human, and make mistakes. Ask yourself: "If I forgot to turn off a 240V breaker, will this cause any damage?" If it could, then I'd remove the circuits that are 240V, or run them to a different breaker panel. Or add a transformer to make your 120V inverter into a 120/240V inverter. The point is to make it impossible for you to cause damage to equipment.
Great to see your back feeding wiring. This is how grid tie inverters such as the SMA Sunny Boy connect to the grid and help people go Net Zero by simply going into a 40 amp 240v double pole breaker (20% rule of a 200 amp main service panel). However, why didn't you just run the AC output of the SMA inverters into the main L1 and L2 of the AC breaker panel instead? Saves the need for an AC panel that has a master breaker? I'm no electrician, but the term AC combiner box for what is really an AC breaker panel doesn't make sense.
Hey David! If you're able to find an electrical supply house close to you it will be way cheaper to buy wire, boxes, and other supplies than Home Depot or Lowe's. I enjoy your enthusiasm and learning with you.
So I'm looking for some information on how I should wire my panels for my Growatt 5000 inverter. I have 12 panels at 450 watt each. What would be my best options? I'm also planning on using a 4 to 1 combiner box.
The MPPT range (maximum power point tracking) for the 5000ES inverter is 120VDC-430VDC. You need to make sure that your solar panel strings are inside of this range. To do this, look on the back of your solar panels. There should be a data sticker. You need to check the "Vmp" which stands for Volts at maximum power. As an example, let's say the Vmp of your solar panels is 50VDC. This means you need a minimum of 3 panels in series to be above the 120V minimum. 3x50V=150V. You will also need to make sure your Voc is below the maximum Voltage of 450V for the unit. Since you have 12 panels total, I'm guessing that when you do out the math on your panels, you will find that having 2 parallel strings of panels, with 6 panels in series per string, will get a good result.
Thank-you for you’re Teaching ! I’m a DIY ‘re i’ve got a 5KVA 230v PureSineWave Inverter charge controller 48v to only use when the Gide is down , I’ve got Two 48v Lithium battery Banks 1 - 3.2v 280Ah & 1- 2.4v Titanite 40Ah , I wanted to hard wire it into a 100A Double Pole Breaker which would be a dedicated circuit only for this ! So when we lose power you have to go down and shut off the main breaker killing the grid from the house and then flip on the double pole breaker which is live by battery back up I also have a manual transfer switch with six circuits 30A but that is very limiting! I have the Moes Automatic Transfer Switch but I would prefer to do it manually 2 make sure No Issues & I have A brand new breaker box I could wire as
An inverter is 1 phase at 230v best way to split into 2 legs , wire it straight into 1 phase of a 100A Double pole breaker and then jump it over with a short wire at same gauge , which will make my entire box 1 phase “ Question will 220v plug still work if both phases is the same phase ? Thank you - you do an awesome job !
quick question am kindly asking? how many 300w solar panel it need to get 3000w ? what size charge controller i will need? what size wire it will take to set up 3000w system? how many batteries it will take to run 3000w inverter? what size fuse ?
Great - Job Explaining ! Im doing a low budget battery back- up / DIY Alternator Generator will be using 2 Gm 10 SI High Amp 110A & a 120A w/ a Ford - Mazda 150A will be powered by DC 12v motors energized by battery-bank 48v Lithium Phosphate 3.2v 280A & a bank of Lithium Titanite 2.3v 40A “ what I’m trying is to be self sufficient in electricity in a grid-down scenario . My inverter is a 5KVA 230v pure sine wave charge controller in a sense the alternators can charge the PV for 12v but if I tap into the Stator which is 120v Ac before the change over to Dc current .
heya david nice install from a DIY I don't know precies how it is with usa standaard like UL, here in Holland (europe) we use the nen1010 normalisation standard so it's nice to see some differances between them
Hi I am now learning about ac combiners via sol-arc 12 parallel diagram and a video. How does the combiner work? The name suggest like array combiner that a number of wires run into it and then one common wire run out. However, where there is a generator connected to inverters, solar panels to inverters then ac output and the grid (120v/240 vac) do they all combine into one red and one black and one neutral wire that run into the manual transfer switch? Thanks
The solar panels have a combiner box outside. Solar and batteries are DC. Inverters output AC. You need a combiner box for solar. Another combiner is sometimes used with multiple batteries. In this case I have two inverters and combine them at the AC output.
Good overview of wiring offgrid inverters to an AC panel! Yes excessive grounding going on, like u said u shoulda used plastic flex conduit. In regards to the jerk that commented below,, I guess he’s perfect and hasn’t changed his setup since he installed it.
NONE of the ground wire connections would comply with UK standards - ALL bare ends must NOW be terminated with a ferrule (applies to Line and Neutral too) Double connections are allowed but should use a twin entry single out ferrule. We don't have the problem of split phase either (except on 110v site transformers (+/- 55V AC about ground). I thought this was going to be about combining inverter outputs (can be done potentially using grid tie inverters NOT tied to the grid. Requires a NON grid tied single inverter for sync). However, the modern domestic supply provided in the UK provides a 240v 100A main fused input to a 100A (max load) consumer unit, the normal standard one comes with separate 80A and 63A rated RCDs, EACH providing 5 circuits. Upstairs 32A power and 6A lighting on separate bus bars and downstairs 32A power and 6A lighting on opposite bus bars with a 40-45A cooker supply and 32A utility supply the spare circuits used for ancillary lighting or dedicated spurs e.g. for gas heating boiler and/or refrigeration etc. So, any solar/inverter supply potentially has to provide up to 20kW to go completely off-grid. AFAIK in Germany they have a full three phase supply to each house. Not sure about flats, I suspect they only get provided a single phase out of three. The UK & other European countries share only four things - a "kind of" commonality or rather compatibility (sometimes) of appliance plugs (France and Germany are different but designed to be compatible) a 220v standard (within a certain percentage to allow for local differences) - the UK is nominally 240v but is often at 250v. a 50Hz supply (easier to divide down to time 1/100ths of a second (60Hz is easier to run clocks ostensibly, but not so sure about that) a standard set of wiring colours - brown - line; blue - neutral; yellow/green stripe - earth. Everything else is different (pretty much). Love your video series on this subject but you should bear these BIG differences in mind since you have an international audience.
Its been my belief (in the past) that the armor/flexible steel conduit/connector screwed/attached to the raceway makes a 'bond' between the conduit and raceway. The electrician that did my flexible conduit did not do 'extra' bonding wire - and the city passed it. Do you have more info on why it was necessary to run the bonding wire on the conduit connectors? Another great video!! Really appreciate the info on proper feeding in power to the subpanel w/fastener etc.
Iam not sure (I'm an electrician, but for industrial applications) but in my company we sell drive inverters for motors and when we connect a motor, we have a special wire has a metal mesh around it. This mesh corresponds to the conduit in the video. This mesh has to be connected to ground to reduce the electromagnetic interference caused by the inverter. And of course for safety here
You only need to bond one end of the conduit. Bonding both ends of the conduit can cause circulating currents to build up in the ground wire from simple induction.
Yes yes yes! Ground wire needs to be connected at both ends, but shielding/foil/wrapper should always only be connected to ground at one place (/one of the ends)! Most electricians don't understand this!
@@bayerbear6770 Sadly, it depends on who's doing the inspection. A recent build of mine was "grounded to hell and back" because of a total ***hole inspector. (took an order from engineers -- actual certified, stamp-welding Professional Engineers -- and UL, to get the UPS approved. Yet, all of the runs for the HVAC systems, run by a different contractor, has none of this unnecessary grounding.)
Of course im a lil confused lol ok so the green & white wire coming from the inverter is switched to a black & red wire going into the breaker box now what volt is that going into the box and is that just one inverter sending power to ur box at 220v or 120v ??
Each inverter outputs 120VAC. I need to combine the two in the circuit breaker box. Inverter#1 has a hot, neutral, and ground. Inverter #2 also has a hot, neutral, and ground. First, all the grounds are run with green wire and all go to the grounding bus bar inside the combiner box. Next, both inverters have a neutral. Both of these are run with white wire from the inverter to the neutral bus bar of the combiner box. Last, we can look at the hot legs. Hot leg from inverter#1 we will call L1. L1 is run with back wire to one pole of the 50 amp circuit breaker. The hot leg from inverter#2 we will call L2. L2 is run with red wire to the second pole of the 50 amp circuit breaker. At this point all the input wiring is done. Output wiring is run the same way every other house in N.America is run.
great job, soon will be done somethink like you with leaf bats + Sunny Island 8.0 + Rec Bms, one question if you have a blackout batteries could work like a generator ? is in the Sunny Island we need to set parameters ?
@@DavidPozEnergy But i am trying to understand how to make it, i read we need to connect on AC2, but the wires go to the same grid of the AC1 right ? Can you make a video how to make it ?
Do you have a recommendation for how I can best use my hydroelec power? I was thinking a big split phase unit by mpp, do you recommend them? Do you know if they can consume battery power if I have a separate charge controller going into the batteries?
@@DavidPozEnergy I saw that. Any alternative recommendations in about the same price range? Sometimes I hate that America is split phase, it makes everything more complicated and expensive.
Broadly speaking, there are two main system types: battery-based DC, or AC direct. What's best for you depends on myriad variables. However, if it were me, I'd build a 24V or 48V battery-based system using inverters for single-phase 120V AC. I'd only go to split phase of I had 240v loads (oven, water heater, clothes dryer, EV charger, etc.). The latter likely brings you into the realm of grid-tie systems, and these are entirely different beasts.
@@DavidPozEnergy So if you add a few Sunny Boys then they would also have hold down kits too? A guy will lose a lot of breaker space. Only asking because I have 3 Sunny Boys I'm putting in and will also be adding the wind version down the road as well.
Hi & congrats... cuestion: why you don't screw the "the hot legs" (the red & black wires) in the top of the AC box? I mean in the conexion to the copper bars of the AC box, instead of to the main breaker directly? You know what I mean?
I took time to read the sol-arc wiring diagram for inverter wiring, page 48/53. It states that one one side (top) the wires from the meter through the main disconnect then to the ac combiner then there is a line for each inverter by splitting (ok. I understand) then there is a line going to the Bypass Transfer switch on line side ( I guess a PDB can do that before it comes to the ac combiner box). Then on the generator side the wires go into the ac combiner box then splits into the 2 inverters (2nd ) and then the outputs from the inverters come into the ac combiner box and then goes to bypass transfer switch I assume as one sets of wires (3rd) bottom. Looks simple but when I try to get images of ac combiner boxes to show the above that is where I got a problem. The examples don't reflect the above. Are there really 3 sets on inputs and then multiple outputs? It seems that all an ac combiner box is is really a sub-panel and you can buy a sub panel and the fittings and make an ac combiner box yourself. I can only imagine all those wires in an ac combiner box. Can you enlighten me? Thanks
I have this SRNE inverter that I'm trying to connect with a 15kwh lithium-ion battery but the inverter keeps showing the error code 05 (Battery overcurrent hardware protection). Please any suggestions on what to do?
Try pre-charging the capacitors using a resistor. I demonstrate the process in several videos, like this one: ruclips.net/video/SYJ25izYSGc/видео.html at 6 minutes, 46 seconds into that video.
We use bare copper here. Would code allow you to use pvc conduit and pvc bushings? The bushings are merely to prevent marring the insulation. Since you used metal of course grounding was in order. I have used flexible plastic conduit nicknamed smurf pipe. Not legal some places. Things that make you go 🤔
DavidPoz hindsight is one of those words I petitioned to have removed 😝. Good grounding never hurt anyone. You would still have to ground everything else anyway. Question is, and this question has been posed on many forums, do you intend to earth ground the negative side of your battery pack or have you? Some have noticed being shocked across the positive terminals to ground but of course you get up around 48v that has a bite anyway. Then throw in mosfets oscillating and a feedback can happen so folks keeps mitts off everything when it’s running 😊.
DavidPoz will you be graduating to Midnite Solar Charge Controller? The MPPT function beats all I’ve seen out there. At 48v you can push more wattage thru the Classic 150 for the money. Also has hyper VOC mode to make up for distance between PV panels controller and dc losses. Their warranty and out of warranty policy can’t be beat either. This reply was not sponsored 😝. Keep em coming and still waiting for that water collection video!
Just curious, but since the wire way is grounded and those armored conduits are metal, wouldn't that already bond them? I'm sure the copper makes a better connection and maybe it is just a electrical code issue, but just would have thought all that metal would carry current if it came to it. DIYer too so just curious. Maybe the idea is if something were to fault it would go mostly through the copper wire and not the metal conduit. Thanks
Yes, the metal wireway and conduit makes an electrical connection. I checked with my multi-meter and there is a connection. But, got to follow code. My electrician told me to do it this way, so I'm following his guidance.
@@DavidPozEnergy I still dont understand the reasoning your electrician told you to ground the bushings, the bushing screws to the wiring gutter and its bonded 6 ways to Sunday, so dont understand this at all,,,,,
@@DavidPozEnergy I'm an electrician in California and my understanding of the code is that bonding bushings are only needed where there are remaining concentric knock-outs (the pre-punched holes) that could become detatched and therefore no longer be able to carry any fault current. They are not necessarily if you drill your own hole or are removing ALL off the pre-punched circles. (i.e. there is a reliable connection to the body of the enclosure.)
Thanks Nathan DuPre. There are a couple holes in the wire way that have concentric rings remaining. But not on the inverters. I did punch most holes myself.
Just want to Ask you What kind of Batteries are you using right now I Have 16 6vdc Trojan Batteries Banks which are almost at the end of their Serviceable Life and I'm looking for Something more Efficient
Right now I'm using some old LiFePO4 modules. They are near the end of their life, but still holding some charge: ruclips.net/video/i_V8v4APT60/видео.html
I got the inverters at a smoking deal of $2400 for the pair. But the lowest I've seen recently (Ebay) is $3200 for a pair. Still a good price because MSRP is $5000 for one.
Each Sunny Island inverter puts out 120V only. Yes, one red wire is connected to one of the inverters, and the Black wire to the other inverter. I set the programming so that they are "out of phase" from one another, which makes 240V.
@@DavidPozEnergy David: The sunny island has setting for preventing grid back-feed but I am not sure if that works given how you are setting this thing up.
@@evangarber8495 there is a generator interlock preventing the tie in breaker for this system from being on at the same time as the main breaker. Nothing to do with settings, its physically impossible to backfeed the grid with this system as it's set up.
O, man. I'm terrible with computers. I fumbled my way through that, but I don't think I can describe it. Here is a video overview of the firmware update: ruclips.net/video/sEU2cZSlKJQ/видео.html
@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks for the link. But don't sell yourself short. Sometimes seeing a guy fumble around is more valuable than slick polished manufacturer videos.
I hope you are open to information about solar and NEC. First, I tried to find a NEC definition for combiner box and couldn't. But after doing many megawatts of solar design, I can say that that term is for D.C., not AC. AC is panel board or load center. Then, I saw your grounding bushings on the flexible metal conduit, they seem to not be required for your installation. Maybe I'm missing something in article 348. Also, while reading Article 348 Flexible Metal Conduit Type FMC 348.12 Uses not Permitted (3) In storage battery rooms. I would suggest that you get a determination from an Architect if your batteries would be classified as such. If yes, then you need to find out what it takes to get an exception. I believe there is one for air changes per hour. I just want you to be safe! Always be safe. The life you save may be your own. Respectfully, Kevin
Thank you. I appreciate your well thought out comment, and the way you said it. I'll look into it more. I'm not an electrician, so at the end of the day my local electrician makes the call.
I've been an inverter field specialist, a Procurement Manager, and Inspector for commercial and utility scale solar projects for over 8 years. AC Combiner is a thing in solar especially since string inverters have become more prevalent on large projects. Electricians call them Panel Boards or Solar Panel Boards. The NEC has been playing catch up with solar since day one.
@@DavidPozEnergy Kevin is correct in that there is no need for grounding bushings as the flexible metal conduits work as the grounding electrode conductors. In my opinion however, they are not a bad idea when the flexible metal conduit is connected to panel boards using the concentric knockouts. I've been an Electrician for almost 30 years, however I am relatively new to solar applications. I find your videos to be very informative and well done! Thanks, and please keep the videos coming!
That's cool. Let's do a little math. The 6,000W rating on the Sunny Island is continuous. 6,000W/120V=50A. The 68A you are looking at might be the 30 minute rating? NEC (code) says you need to upsize 20% on top of continuous ratings, which would be 60A. So, a 60A breaker meets code. But, if you want to upsize your setup to a 70, or 80 Amp, there is nothing wrong with that, so long as you up-size the wire with it. The wire and circuit breaker need to be matched. Look up "NEC Ampacity Chart" and I believe you will find that you can use 80A circuit breaker with 4 gauge copper wire. I used 6 gauge, and the 4 gauge is the next size larger.
David you are NOT a DIY-er, you are a DIYOAOA-er. (Do it yourself over and over again) You keep changing your setup over and over again. Your house and shed are not powered by solar. They both are powered by RUclips. Battery in, battery out, new battery in, battery out, inverter in, inverter out. Your setup box gets more holes in it every day. This is not DIY. You do have an interresting channel, but your home and shed are just grid powered. You wont give the sun any chance to produce power. Look at your RUclips history. Solar ON OFF battery IN OUT change this change that inverter in converter in inverter out converter out.
You, sir, are a dick. Do you know any DIY-ers who don't change things all the time? Always building new stuff or coming up with new ideas or ways to do stuff? Sure, he's got a successful RUclips channel, and able to make a little bit of money doing this. Jealous maybe? I refer to my original statement.
I love watching your videos, David! They really give me a basic understanding of electricity and they are not designed to be how to videos.
Nice use of the gutter. Your grounding is spot on in my opinion. Grounding between AC/DC conversion is something that is still not quite perfected, in my opinion. When in doubt overground, unless it messes with neutral/ground separation, necessary for GFI's to work..
This is great! I love how clean you're doing it and making sure to follow code. I hope mine comes out as clean. I still need to find some of those dang wireways lol.
Thanks
They're not too expensive and work great if you have the space for them! www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Milbank-6648-Gsc1-Nema-1-Screw-Cover-Wireway/5775676?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8-HH4N766AIVj8DICh0KbgrFEAQYAiABEgIFc_D_BwE
Woot! I had no idea inverters could be clustered into a "three-phase system or up to four devices in a double split-phase system". What a time to be alive :-)
I think you could give a few Journeymen a run for their money! Great video.
Just an FYI as per the SMA SI inverter manual. "The AC cables between the Sunny Island and the sub-distribution of a system must have the
same wire size and the same cable length for all parallel connected devices" This is a cool channel. Thanks for sharing your projects and knowledge.
How about the same system almost but Grid~Tie~In ! You are the man when it comes to this stuff ! Thanks
All my work with solar is off grid. Sorry. I want to avoid the grid as much as possible.
I'm in the Process to install a Dual MagnaSine 48vdc an Upgrade to my old Systems when I get back to the Philippines and I enjoyed your Video it's very informative but sad to say I don't have the Liberty of Having All those Cool Tools and Gadgets I shipped all the necessary Hardwares for the Upgrades which I got from Northern Arizona Wind and Sun and some Straight from Magnum Power in Washington. Can't wait to Start this Project and make it neat and Professionally Installed..
Great video. To the point, no music. I like your attitude. :)
Ciao David, mi piace tanto il tuo canale sono molto belli i tuoi video perché sono molto educativi. Un saluto dal Italia!
If you are back feeding into the 60amp breaker, does it work as a breaker then? I'm curious as to why you didn't just attach the inverter wires to the top terminals, like the two 100amp lines/phases? would attach in your main breaker panel from the local electric company? The only reason I as is I'm looking to do the same configuration at my house. Thanks in advance!
I am wondering that too. I have an off grid home I am building and one of the DC trailers that I will be eventually transferring the equipment off of and into the home and want to bring the 240AC from the two inverters and bring into my main service panel just like a normal service entrance would be setup.
So I am running the LV6548. I want to connect it to my trailers main breaker. My plan was to disconnect the grid wires that were cut from the grid when the trailer was moved and connect the LV6548 in their place. I will not being using anything over 120v so I will be keeping any breakers over 120v off. What do you think?
Anything is doable, but there are some precautions to consider.
1. Try having a transfer switch between the main panel, and the inverter. The transfer switch can then be used to switch between the inverter, and some other input such as a generator. This way, if the inverter goes down, you can still run loads with a generator.
2. I'm a fan of making it impossible to accidentally screw something up. We are all human, and make mistakes. Ask yourself: "If I forgot to turn off a 240V breaker, will this cause any damage?" If it could, then I'd remove the circuits that are 240V, or run them to a different breaker panel. Or add a transformer to make your 120V inverter into a 120/240V inverter. The point is to make it impossible for you to cause damage to equipment.
I'm loving your channel. You mentioned you're not an electrician, I would love to know what you do. You seem to be very good at everything?
WOW NICE work brother. You did a GRATE JOB!! I would have hired you when I had my solar bizz. God Bless Brother..
Thanks Bobby. I was trying to do a slotted metal too.
Great to see your back feeding wiring. This is how grid tie inverters such as the SMA Sunny Boy connect to the grid and help people go Net Zero by simply going into a 40 amp 240v double pole breaker (20% rule of a 200 amp main service panel). However, why didn't you just run the AC output of the SMA inverters into the main L1 and L2 of the AC breaker panel instead? Saves the need for an AC panel that has a master breaker? I'm no electrician, but the term AC combiner box for what is really an AC breaker panel doesn't make sense.
David I'm not sure of the code there when I was wiring my setup I had to run an earth ground. Did you have to do this aswell
Thanks Dave, as always I do appreciate it.
Hey David! If you're able to find an electrical supply house close to you it will be way cheaper to buy wire, boxes, and other supplies than Home Depot or Lowe's. I enjoy your enthusiasm and learning with you.
Thanks
This video was super helpful! Thanks for the information!
So I'm looking for some information on how I should wire my panels for my Growatt 5000 inverter. I have 12 panels at 450 watt each. What would be my best options? I'm also planning on using a 4 to 1 combiner box.
The MPPT range (maximum power point tracking) for the 5000ES inverter is 120VDC-430VDC. You need to make sure that your solar panel strings are inside of this range. To do this, look on the back of your solar panels. There should be a data sticker. You need to check the "Vmp" which stands for Volts at maximum power. As an example, let's say the Vmp of your solar panels is 50VDC. This means you need a minimum of 3 panels in series to be above the 120V minimum. 3x50V=150V.
You will also need to make sure your Voc is below the maximum Voltage of 450V for the unit. Since you have 12 panels total, I'm guessing that when you do out the math on your panels, you will find that having 2 parallel strings of panels, with 6 panels in series per string, will get a good result.
Thank-you for you’re Teaching ! I’m a DIY ‘re i’ve got a 5KVA 230v PureSineWave Inverter charge controller 48v to only use when the Gide is down , I’ve got Two 48v Lithium battery Banks 1 - 3.2v 280Ah & 1- 2.4v Titanite 40Ah , I wanted to hard wire it into a 100A Double Pole Breaker which would be a dedicated circuit only for this ! So when we lose power you have to go down and shut off the main breaker killing the grid from the house and then flip on the double pole breaker which is live by battery back up I also have a manual transfer switch with six circuits 30A but that is very limiting! I have the Moes Automatic Transfer Switch but I would prefer to do it manually 2 make sure No Issues & I have A brand new breaker box I could wire as
out of curiosity.. do you ever measure for current on your grounding where your ground+neutrals are bonded?
Thanks for your videos.
An inverter is 1 phase at 230v best way to split into 2 legs , wire it straight into 1 phase of a 100A Double pole breaker and then jump it over with a short wire at same gauge , which will make my entire box 1 phase “ Question will 220v plug still work if both phases is the same phase ? Thank you - you do an awesome job !
quick question am kindly asking? how many 300w solar panel it need to get 3000w ? what size charge controller i will need? what size wire it will take to set up 3000w system? how many batteries it will take to run 3000w inverter? what size fuse ?
Nice job free Power is Coming
Great - Job Explaining ! Im doing a low budget battery back- up / DIY Alternator Generator will be using 2 Gm 10 SI High Amp 110A & a 120A w/ a Ford - Mazda 150A will be powered by DC 12v motors energized by battery-bank 48v Lithium Phosphate 3.2v 280A & a bank of Lithium Titanite 2.3v 40A “ what I’m trying is to be self sufficient in electricity in a grid-down scenario . My inverter is a 5KVA 230v pure sine wave charge controller in a sense the alternators can charge the PV for 12v but if I tap into the Stator which is 120v Ac before the change over to Dc current .
love your video nice work brother am planning to have tool box with 11 inverter and 12 volt deep cycle battery 100 amp
Thanks, Poz! Appreciate your work! If you can have a bit more of your systems from DC to AC. Great work!!!
heya david nice install from a DIY I don't know precies how it is with usa standaard like UL, here in Holland (europe) we use the nen1010 normalisation standard so it's nice to see some differances between them
looks good Where's the ground rod lol?
Hi I am now learning about ac combiners via sol-arc 12 parallel diagram and a video. How does the combiner work? The name suggest like array combiner that a number of wires run into it and then one common wire run out. However, where there is a generator connected to inverters, solar panels to inverters then ac output and the grid (120v/240 vac) do they all combine into one red and one black and one neutral wire that run into the manual transfer switch? Thanks
The solar panels have a combiner box outside. Solar and batteries are DC. Inverters output AC. You need a combiner box for solar. Another combiner is sometimes used with multiple batteries. In this case I have two inverters and combine them at the AC output.
@@DavidPozEnergy thank you again
Good overview of wiring offgrid inverters to an AC panel!
Yes excessive grounding going on, like u said u shoulda used plastic flex conduit. In regards to the jerk that commented below,, I guess he’s perfect and hasn’t changed his setup since he installed it.
I don't know about the rest of the world. All I know is changing my system is something that happens regularly.
You called the AC distribution panel the combiner box. I thought that the combiner box referenced the solar panel combiner?
I have DC combiner boxes too, out at the solar array. This is an AC combiner box in its current use.
NONE of the ground wire connections would comply with UK standards - ALL bare ends must NOW be terminated with a ferrule (applies to Line and Neutral too) Double connections are allowed but should use a twin entry single out ferrule. We don't have the problem of split phase either (except on 110v site transformers (+/- 55V AC about ground).
I thought this was going to be about combining inverter outputs (can be done potentially using grid tie inverters NOT tied to the grid. Requires a NON grid tied single inverter for sync). However, the modern domestic supply provided in the UK provides a 240v 100A main fused input to a 100A (max load) consumer unit, the normal standard one comes with separate 80A and 63A rated RCDs, EACH providing 5 circuits. Upstairs 32A power and 6A lighting on separate bus bars and downstairs 32A power and 6A lighting on opposite bus bars with a 40-45A cooker supply and 32A utility supply the spare circuits used for ancillary lighting or dedicated spurs e.g. for gas heating boiler and/or refrigeration etc. So, any solar/inverter supply potentially has to provide up to 20kW to go completely off-grid.
AFAIK in Germany they have a full three phase supply to each house. Not sure about flats, I suspect they only get provided a single phase out of three. The UK & other European countries share only four things -
a "kind of" commonality or rather compatibility (sometimes) of appliance plugs (France and Germany are different but designed to be compatible)
a 220v standard (within a certain percentage to allow for local differences) - the UK is nominally 240v but is often at 250v.
a 50Hz supply (easier to divide down to time 1/100ths of a second (60Hz is easier to run clocks ostensibly, but not so sure about that)
a standard set of wiring colours - brown - line; blue - neutral; yellow/green stripe - earth.
Everything else is different (pretty much).
Love your video series on this subject but you should bear these BIG differences in mind since you have an international audience.
systems looking good so far btw
Its been my belief (in the past) that the armor/flexible steel conduit/connector screwed/attached to the raceway makes a 'bond' between the conduit and raceway. The electrician that did my flexible conduit did not do 'extra' bonding wire - and the city passed it. Do you have more info on why it was necessary to run the bonding wire on the conduit connectors? Another great video!! Really appreciate the info on proper feeding in power to the subpanel w/fastener etc.
Iam not sure (I'm an electrician, but for industrial applications) but in my company we sell drive inverters for motors and when we connect a motor, we have a special wire has a metal mesh around it. This mesh corresponds to the conduit in the video. This mesh has to be connected to ground to reduce the electromagnetic interference caused by the inverter.
And of course for safety here
Its a learning journey for sure, like your videos, keep up your good work!
You only need to bond one end of the conduit. Bonding both ends of the conduit can cause circulating currents to build up in the ground wire from simple induction.
Yes yes yes!
Ground wire needs to be connected at both ends, but shielding/foil/wrapper should always only be connected to ground at one place (/one of the ends)!
Most electricians don't understand this!
@@bayerbear6770 Sadly, it depends on who's doing the inspection. A recent build of mine was "grounded to hell and back" because of a total ***hole inspector. (took an order from engineers -- actual certified, stamp-welding Professional Engineers -- and UL, to get the UPS approved. Yet, all of the runs for the HVAC systems, run by a different contractor, has none of this unnecessary grounding.)
Where did you hook up the hotwires and neutral on the inverters? Thx again
@DacidPoz - AC combining require phase synchronization. How are you sure that you wont have issues with phasing of the AC combiner?
The SMA inverters communicate with each other to stay in phase.
@@DavidPozEnergy Ah! I see, great, thank you!
Of course im a lil confused lol ok so the green & white wire coming from the inverter is switched to a black & red wire going into the breaker box now what volt is that going into the box and is that just one inverter sending power to ur box at 220v or 120v ??
Each inverter outputs 120VAC. I need to combine the two in the circuit breaker box. Inverter#1 has a hot, neutral, and ground. Inverter #2 also has a hot, neutral, and ground. First, all the grounds are run with green wire and all go to the grounding bus bar inside the combiner box. Next, both inverters have a neutral. Both of these are run with white wire from the inverter to the neutral bus bar of the combiner box. Last, we can look at the hot legs. Hot leg from inverter#1 we will call L1. L1 is run with back wire to one pole of the 50 amp circuit breaker. The hot leg from inverter#2 we will call L2. L2 is run with red wire to the second pole of the 50 amp circuit breaker. At this point all the input wiring is done. Output wiring is run the same way every other house in N.America is run.
@@DavidPozEnergy How do you synchronize to the two phases at 120VAC and -120VAC ?
New Camera ! : )
That cover for the breaker dot click on for beans! I don’t know what I was missing but I couldn’t get it to snap in at all
great job, soon will be done somethink like you with leaf bats + Sunny Island 8.0 + Rec Bms, one question if you have a blackout batteries could work like a generator ? is in the Sunny Island we need to set parameters ?
Yes, there are settings in the Sunny Island so you can use it like a backup generator (UPS)
@@DavidPozEnergy But i am trying to understand how to make it, i read we need to connect on AC2, but the wires go to the same grid of the AC1 right ? Can you make a video how to make it ?
manual says :
• Connect the line conductor to AC2 Gen/Grid L.
• Connect the neutral conductor to AC2 Gen/Grid NTT.
so simple(one phase) ?
Do you have a recommendation for how I can best use my hydroelec power? I was thinking a big split phase unit by mpp, do you recommend them? Do you know if they can consume battery power if I have a separate charge controller going into the batteries?
I did a review video on the MPP LV5048. I was not very impressed with it. ruclips.net/video/FUaDmVDcYks/видео.html
@@DavidPozEnergy I saw that. Any alternative recommendations in about the same price range? Sometimes I hate that America is split phase, it makes everything more complicated and expensive.
Broadly speaking, there are two main system types: battery-based DC, or AC direct. What's best for you depends on myriad variables. However, if it were me, I'd build a 24V or 48V battery-based system using inverters for single-phase 120V AC. I'd only go to split phase of I had 240v loads (oven, water heater, clothes dryer, EV charger, etc.). The latter likely brings you into the realm of grid-tie systems, and these are entirely different beasts.
If you were wiring the same ac combiner box but with grid included (solar and battery and grid) would the wiring be different?
yes. these inverters can't have the grid tied to the "output" only the "input"
Does the main breaker hold down kit prevent a breaker from being installed in the slots across from it?
Yes, that's correct.
@@DavidPozEnergy So if you add a few Sunny Boys then they would also have hold down kits too? A guy will lose a lot of breaker space. Only asking because I have 3 Sunny Boys I'm putting in and will also be adding the wind version down the road as well.
I'm not sure about that. Sorry.
Very nicely done. My only issue is, bonding should be solid conductors.
Do elaborate...
Hi & congrats... cuestion: why you don't screw the "the hot legs" (the red & black wires) in the top of the AC box? I mean in the conexion to the copper bars of the AC box, instead of to the main breaker directly? You know what I mean?
I didn't do that because I wanted a main circuit breaker in there.
@@DavidPozEnergy ok... got it! Thanks
I took time to read the sol-arc wiring diagram for inverter wiring, page 48/53. It states that one one side (top) the wires from the meter through the main disconnect then to the ac combiner then there is a line for each inverter by splitting (ok. I understand) then there is a line going to the Bypass Transfer switch on line side ( I guess a PDB can do that before it comes to the ac combiner box). Then on the generator side the wires go into the ac combiner box then splits into the 2 inverters (2nd ) and then the outputs from the inverters come into the ac combiner box and then goes to bypass transfer switch I assume as one sets of wires (3rd) bottom. Looks simple but when I try to get images of ac combiner boxes to show the above that is where I got a problem. The examples don't reflect the above. Are there really 3 sets on inputs and then multiple outputs? It seems that all an ac combiner box is is really a sub-panel and you can buy a sub panel and the fittings and make an ac combiner box yourself. I can only imagine all those wires in an ac combiner box. Can you enlighten me? Thanks
I've never wired up a Sol-Ark. Try this: ruclips.net/video/7zoPu-uK4Xc/видео.html
I have this SRNE inverter that I'm trying to connect with a 15kwh lithium-ion battery but the inverter keeps showing the error code 05 (Battery overcurrent hardware protection). Please any suggestions on what to do?
Try pre-charging the capacitors using a resistor. I demonstrate the process in several videos, like this one: ruclips.net/video/SYJ25izYSGc/видео.html at 6 minutes, 46 seconds into that video.
We use bare copper here. Would code allow you to use pvc conduit and pvc bushings? The bushings are merely to prevent marring the insulation. Since you used metal of course grounding was in order. I have used flexible plastic conduit nicknamed smurf pipe. Not legal some places. Things that make you go 🤔
Yes. I should have use all plastic, but I didn't know the metal was going to wind up needing all this extra stuff.
DavidPoz hindsight is one of those words I petitioned to have removed 😝. Good grounding never hurt anyone. You would still have to ground everything else anyway. Question is, and this question has been posed on many forums, do you intend to earth ground the negative side of your battery pack or have you? Some have noticed being shocked across the positive terminals to ground but of course you get up around 48v that has a bite anyway. Then throw in mosfets oscillating and a feedback can happen so folks keeps mitts off everything when it’s running 😊.
I don't intend to run an earth ground to the negative battery post, but it is tied with a Midnite Solar SPD.
DavidPoz will you be graduating to Midnite Solar Charge Controller? The MPPT function beats all I’ve seen out there. At 48v you can push more wattage thru the Classic 150 for the money. Also has hyper VOC mode to make up for distance between PV panels controller and dc losses. Their warranty and out of warranty policy can’t be beat either. This reply was not sponsored 😝. Keep em coming and still waiting for that water collection video!
I don't plan to buy a Midnite Solar Charge controller. Thanks.
Just curious, but since the wire way is grounded and those armored conduits are metal, wouldn't that already bond them? I'm sure the copper makes a better connection and maybe it is just a electrical code issue, but just would have thought all that metal would carry current if it came to it. DIYer too so just curious. Maybe the idea is if something were to fault it would go mostly through the copper wire and not the metal conduit. Thanks
Yes, the metal wireway and conduit makes an electrical connection. I checked with my multi-meter and there is a connection. But, got to follow code. My electrician told me to do it this way, so I'm following his guidance.
@@DavidPozEnergy I still dont understand the reasoning your electrician told you to ground the bushings, the bushing screws to the wiring gutter and its bonded 6 ways to Sunday, so dont understand this at all,,,,,
@Steve Pickett, If I did it again I would use plastic conduit and save $$$ and time. I didn't know all this in advance.
@@DavidPozEnergy I'm an electrician in California and my understanding of the code is that bonding bushings are only needed where there are remaining concentric knock-outs (the pre-punched holes) that could become detatched and therefore no longer be able to carry any fault current. They are not necessarily if you drill your own hole or are removing ALL off the pre-punched circles. (i.e. there is a reliable connection to the body of the enclosure.)
Thanks Nathan DuPre. There are a couple holes in the wire way that have concentric rings remaining. But not on the inverters. I did punch most holes myself.
I saw you have your chargery BMS install, can you talk about it?
Yes, it's a chargery 16s. I have not tested all the features of it yet, but plan on making a full video when I do. Thanks for watching.
In UK we only have 32amp breakers on 240v sockets. Bigger breakers on showers and ovens etc
Just want to Ask you What kind of Batteries are you using right now I Have 16 6vdc Trojan Batteries Banks which are almost at the end of their Serviceable Life and I'm looking for Something more Efficient
Right now I'm using some old LiFePO4 modules. They are near the end of their life, but still holding some charge: ruclips.net/video/i_V8v4APT60/видео.html
I just received 28 packs of LG from BatteryHook Up how did you hooked these into 48vdc
David what did those inverts set you back I been looking for a set of those to run parallel
I got the inverters at a smoking deal of $2400 for the pair. But the lowest I've seen recently (Ebay) is $3200 for a pair. Still a good price because MSRP is $5000 for one.
@@DavidPozEnergy dam I guess I 'll keep saving
Half way through. You hooked the red and black to breaker. Is the red wire from one inverter and the black from another? You did this to achieve 240v?
Each Sunny Island inverter puts out 120V only. Yes, one red wire is connected to one of the inverters, and the Black wire to the other inverter. I set the programming so that they are "out of phase" from one another, which makes 240V.
David..I did some trade for a Solaredge SE7600H-US inverter. Can It be used for an off grid system to run my shop/garage?
I don't have experience with Solaredge, so I can't comment on them. Sorry I can't help.
Great job! Keep it up!
I didn't know how to put the hold down kit it hasti be only in the left side thank you
Is white the uniform code for nuetral in your area? It should be ( - ) equivalent or black in DC
This panel is containing AC (alternating current) circuit breakers. White is the Neutral. Yes, white is the official color for neutral in AC.
Than ks Davi .ok solar Viet Nam
How does your system prevent back-feeded the grid when there is a downed line? Many linemen have been electrocuted from unexpected voltages.
I have a main transfer switch. There is no possibility of my system being connected to the grid. No back-feeding the grid.
@@DavidPozEnergy Awesome :)
@@DavidPozEnergy David: The sunny island has setting for preventing grid back-feed but I am not sure if that works given how you are setting this thing up.
@@evangarber8495 there is a generator interlock preventing the tie in breaker for this system from being on at the same time as the main breaker. Nothing to do with settings, its physically impossible to backfeed the grid with this system as it's set up.
Thanks for the video. Please show us the firmware update process!
O, man. I'm terrible with computers. I fumbled my way through that, but I don't think I can describe it. Here is a video overview of the firmware update: ruclips.net/video/sEU2cZSlKJQ/видео.html
@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks for the link. But don't sell yourself short. Sometimes seeing a guy fumble around is more valuable than slick polished manufacturer videos.
I hope you are open to information about solar and NEC.
First, I tried to find a NEC definition for combiner box and couldn't. But after doing many megawatts of solar design, I can say that that term is for D.C., not AC. AC is panel board or load center. Then, I saw your grounding bushings on the flexible metal conduit, they seem to not be required for your installation. Maybe I'm missing something in article 348.
Also, while reading Article 348 Flexible Metal Conduit Type FMC 348.12 Uses not Permitted (3) In storage battery rooms. I would suggest that you get a determination from an Architect if your batteries would be classified as such. If yes, then you need to find out what it takes to get an exception. I believe there is one for air changes per hour. I just want you to be safe! Always be safe. The life you save may be your own. Respectfully, Kevin
Thank you. I appreciate your well thought out comment, and the way you said it. I'll look into it more. I'm not an electrician, so at the end of the day my local electrician makes the call.
DavidPoz Just wanting you to be informed. Best Wishes!
I've been an inverter field specialist, a Procurement Manager, and Inspector for commercial and utility scale solar projects for over 8 years. AC Combiner is a thing in solar especially since string inverters have become more prevalent on large projects. Electricians call them Panel Boards or Solar Panel Boards. The NEC has been playing catch up with solar since day one.
@@DavidPozEnergy Kevin is correct in that there is no need for grounding bushings as the flexible metal conduits work as the grounding electrode conductors. In my opinion however, they are not a bad idea when the flexible metal conduit is connected to panel boards using the concentric knockouts. I've been an Electrician for almost 30 years, however I am relatively new to solar applications. I find your videos to be very informative and well done! Thanks, and please keep the videos coming!
Are those single phase inverters or dual phase inverters?
Did you use and convert the sub panel just bacause you already had it rather than using a main panel?
Yes, I already had the panel. No need to go buy something else
I have a 6000 single inverter. Only 120v. I think I only need a single pole breaker 70 amp. Says 6000w 68 amps out.
That's cool. Let's do a little math. The 6,000W rating on the Sunny Island is continuous. 6,000W/120V=50A. The 68A you are looking at might be the 30 minute rating? NEC (code) says you need to upsize 20% on top of continuous ratings, which would be 60A. So, a 60A breaker meets code. But, if you want to upsize your setup to a 70, or 80 Amp, there is nothing wrong with that, so long as you up-size the wire with it. The wire and circuit breaker need to be matched. Look up "NEC Ampacity Chart" and I believe you will find that you can use 80A circuit breaker with 4 gauge copper wire. I used 6 gauge, and the 4 gauge is the next size larger.
If you added 2 more inverters, would you just need to add another breaker? If so, could you program the additional inverters to be L1 or L2?
Found my answer here. ruclips.net/video/vBquLzPxiqc/видео.html
I can't figure it out😭 I'm looking at the video at 2 years old and I'm barely even getting started doing what I'm doing
Show 👍
Ni
Please grow a beard. Thank you
David you are NOT a DIY-er, you are a DIYOAOA-er. (Do it yourself over and over again) You keep changing your setup over and over again. Your house and shed are not powered by solar. They both are powered by RUclips. Battery in, battery out, new battery in, battery out, inverter in, inverter out. Your setup box gets more holes in it every day. This is not DIY. You do have an interresting channel, but your home and shed are just grid powered. You wont give the sun any chance to produce power. Look at your RUclips history. Solar ON OFF battery IN OUT change this change that inverter in converter in inverter out converter out.
You, sir, are a dick. Do you know any DIY-ers who don't change things all the time? Always building new stuff or coming up with new ideas or ways to do stuff? Sure, he's got a successful RUclips channel, and able to make a little bit of money doing this. Jealous maybe? I refer to my original statement.
If he did it himself then it is DIY. What, exactly is your point?