Thanks for the in depth video. Cherish these times wrenching with your Dad while you can. I would give anything to have a day like that with mine again.
You nailed this video from start to finish, sincere, honest, detailed and apparently non-biased. I share the same motive as you and your dad to continue to strive for better performance, drivability, economy, etc. After spending years fine tuning my current setup with an HEI (it drives and runs very good) I just feel there is still room for improvement and this Progression distributor may be the ticket to get me there. I’d like to see an update with more emphasis on the process you guys did to achieve your best timing table from stone cold startup-cold drive-warming engine cruise-heat soaked engine cruise-part throttle tip in-WOT.
Well thank you so much and I’m glad that you like the video. And you’re in luck I’m currently working on an update to this project so stay tuned and I will upload a video soon and also let me know what you think of the rest of my videos once again thank you so much I appreciate it.
Well from what we can tell it’s still holding up very well. Although I can’t say for certain since we no longer have the car, but we do keep in contact with the new owner and he hasn’t had any issues
The reason for the ballist resistor in Mopars, was originally to protect the points and condenser. 12v would cause premature ware on the points and the ignition coil was also designed to run on the lower voltage. Chrysler engineers keep the the resistor and design the ignition system to operate with the lower voltage, even after getting away from points ignition.
Yes we did, the unit is completely self contained so there was no need to use the stock existing ignition control unit, however we did leave it on the car in case we wanted to go back as a backup just in case
It actually works really really well and it actually has a cut out function where you can set it so that it doesn’t turn on unless your phone is next to it like a security feature in a modern car
I wonder about this. I have a Pertronix on a 1964 Ford F250 with a 292 engine. I replace the 2 barrel carb with a Holley 4 barrel. I replaced the cross over pipe for exhaust with headers and straight pipes. I have the Pertronix in place of the points and condenser.
@@kermitefrog64 if you decide to go with the progression ignition system, it will work just fine and honestly, I found it to be much more reliable than the Petronix unit. It’s a bit more expensive, but far more adaptable and easier to customize when you understand the concept.
So wait, at 19:57 when you said timing was at 10 degrees, it did start up? or did you have to generate the table and send it like you were saying later on, before that first start up at 19:57? just trying to figure out what I should do lol, going for my first start up/break in on the cam in a couple days and want to be ready!! Very helpful video
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 unfortunately I had no luck with the first start up! Did you guys still have to bring the engine to 10btdc and reference the distributor on the black mark when you sent your own table to it?
I know this video is a little old but, watching it I noticed what resembles to be an MSD Blaster SS Coil (#8206). If it is that Coil, you will need to change it to a Progression Ignition Coil or something similar like an MSD Blaster or Blaster II Coil. Key thing here is the Coil needs to have a Primary Resistance of 0.700 Ohms, that one you have (if it's the MSD) has 0.355 Ohms and may cause some issues.
I attempted to bypass my ballast resistor by using a jumper wires but my ignition seems to still lose power. Can you tell me more about how you ran power to coil?
Our total advance ended up at 35 degrees at 2,800rpm with initial advance of 12, and we kept the rev limiter at 4,500 rpm, then we fine tuned each rpm range with in 2 to 3 degrees advance depending on throttle response while in that specific rpm. She ended up smooth as silk
Great video. I want one but the progression website hasn't worked for weeks. Is the company still operating? Tech support exist? Where to order besides Amazon?
I’m glad you like the video thank you so much. I literally just checked out their website and it seems to work properly give it another shot maybe it’s your connection I’m not sure I will try to contact them on Monday to see if they’re still operational but thank you for the heads up and please let me know what you think of the rest of my videos
Question. I am hooking up to a mopar 440. I am trying to wire in around the ballast resistor as well. Would it work if you just disconnected ballast resistor and connected the two wires at the resistor? I guess my question is would that give you 12v at the coil to power the progression? Thanks buddy. I hate wiring and this is one of my last steps before starting up.
You can hook it up at the ballast resistor if you want but make sure that you hook up the switch wire to the side that is providing the 12 V into the ballast resistor. Basically make sure you’re hooking up to the hot wire that is going into The ballast resistor. Whatever you do just make sure that the unit is receiving true 12v power from the battery even through the ignition switch. Keep in mind that Mopar ignition systems primarily run on 5 to 9 V make sure the unit is getting its full power requirements.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 I think I’m going to bypass it all together, just need to figure out which wire is the ignition switch and what to do with the positive terminal on the coil.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 Ok cool. So if I run relay 12v power to both + coil and progression it sounds like it would be ok. I’m also trying to figure out what other wiring is fed off of that area by ballast resistor. I think it supplies alternator positive from voltage regulator. Thanks for your help btw.
When you set the RPMs in the app, are you able to change the RPMs and the car responds? I thought RPMs were set by the carburetor and gas flow to the engine.
The RPMs of an engine can be controlled by two things on a gasoline engine, throttle position and ignition timing. In this case yes the RPM can be set by the app and it will respond the minute you change it. However the RPMs can be further fine tuned by adjusting it at the throttle.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 Thank you for the response, I really didnt know that. On my car I set the idle with the idle screw on the carb, that's why I thought it only had to do with the carb and gas. It's tripping me out. Great video BTW
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 Yeah, I know, and I like the male style, but are the cap and rotor standard parts? And where would you get Mopar specific wires that fit that style? I actually have a 383 and I *really* like the rev limiting feature!
@@dahut3614 Unfortunately I don’t believe they sell any wire kit in that style for Mopar, we had to make our own out of a universal kit. As for the cap and rotor they are the same as the ones on the MSD unit so if you need replacements I imagine those would work. This distributor is heavily based on the MSD mag style distributor.
In fact, you need to make sure that the distributor is getting 12 V at all times including cranking so that receives a stable signal. Otherwise he will have issues with ignition or another words make sure that the ignition switch you have provides power to the ignition system while cranking and it Has to be true 12 V
That’s an excellent question! I believe the distributor would still work as long as there at least some vacuum present. The vacuum signal simply works as a reference for tuning once the engine is running. The trigger for ignition is actually RPM so it should still work for your application.
![Who Wrote a Short Story That Seriously Disturbed a Teacher? | Dirty Laundry x Smosh [Full Episode]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bvHAy_rKoEI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the in depth video. Cherish these times wrenching with your Dad while you can. I would give anything to have a day like that with mine again.
you got to love that old style craftsman timing light!
Great video this gives you a lot of flexibility in dialing engine remotely in different situations.
Your Dad and you share a love for fine cars!
Thank you so much!
You nailed this video from start to finish, sincere, honest, detailed and apparently non-biased.
I share the same motive as you and your dad to continue to strive for better performance, drivability, economy, etc.
After spending years fine tuning my current setup with an HEI (it drives and runs very good) I just feel there is still room for improvement and this Progression distributor may be the ticket to get me there.
I’d like to see an update with more emphasis on the process you guys did to achieve your best timing table from stone cold startup-cold drive-warming engine cruise-heat soaked engine cruise-part throttle tip in-WOT.
Well thank you so much and I’m glad that you like the video. And you’re in luck I’m currently working on an update to this project so stay tuned and I will upload a video soon and also let me know what you think of the rest of my videos once again thank you so much I appreciate it.
Howdy, Pops😊 Ooo, I've heard of those! A lil' bit old school and a lil' bit new school and you'll be the only one that knows😁 THNX!
That’s the idea with an emphasis on tune ability
Awesome video and test. I'm certainly interested in down the road reviews of it. thank you
How is the progression ignition system working? I just ordered mine and was happy to have found your installation and set up video!
Well from what we can tell it’s still holding up very well. Although I can’t say for certain since we no longer have the car, but we do keep in contact with the new owner and he hasn’t had any issues
Awesome. Good job explaining the system
Thank you I appreciate it and I’m glad you like the video
👍
thanks for the video man and thanks to your dad as well for the wisdom
Thanks man I appreciate it
The reason for the ballist resistor in Mopars, was originally to protect the points and condenser. 12v would cause premature ware on the points and the ignition coil was also designed to run on the lower voltage. Chrysler engineers keep the the resistor and design the ignition system to operate with the lower voltage, even after getting away from points ignition.
Not just Mopar.
Your Dad is awesome!!
Sweet Mopar dudes and great video. I’m trying to decide between the Pertronix and this one. Did you guys totally bypass the ECM too?
Yes we did, the unit is completely self contained so there was no need to use the stock existing ignition control unit, however we did leave it on the car in case we wanted to go back as a backup just in case
Was surprised by the options. Worried a bit about security, but looks like a great tuning option
It actually works really really well and it actually has a cut out function where you can set it so that it doesn’t turn on unless your phone is next to it like a security feature in a modern car
Wow didn't know this existed for old tech cars. I see they make them for 80s chevy carbed trucks
Yes they do
I wonder about this. I have a Pertronix on a 1964 Ford F250 with a 292 engine. I replace the 2 barrel carb with a Holley 4 barrel. I replaced the cross over pipe for exhaust with headers and straight pipes. I have the Pertronix in place of the points and condenser.
@@kermitefrog64 if you decide to go with the progression ignition system, it will work just fine and honestly, I found it to be much more reliable than the Petronix unit. It’s a bit more expensive, but far more adaptable and easier to customize when you understand the concept.
Great content, good job!
Thank you so much
So wait, at 19:57 when you said timing was at 10 degrees, it did start up? or did you have to generate the table and send it like you were saying later on, before that first start up at 19:57? just trying to figure out what I should do lol, going for my first start up/break in on the cam in a couple days and want to be ready!! Very helpful video
You have to setup a table first, then send that to the distributor and run it to check for accuracy, at least that’s what we had to do in our case.
I’m glad this video helped you and good luck with the brake in
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 Great, thanks for the quick reply too!
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 unfortunately I had no luck with the first start up! Did you guys still have to bring the engine to 10btdc and reference the distributor on the black mark when you sent your own table to it?
I know this video is a little old but, watching it I noticed what resembles to be an MSD Blaster SS Coil (#8206). If it is that Coil, you will need to change it to a Progression Ignition Coil or something similar like an MSD Blaster or Blaster II Coil. Key thing here is the Coil needs to have a Primary Resistance of 0.700 Ohms, that one you have (if it's the MSD) has 0.355 Ohms and may cause some issues.
Noted! I will change the. Thanks so much for the info!
Great video! Thanks!!!!!
awesome
I attempted to bypass my ballast resistor by using a jumper wires but my ignition seems to still lose power. Can you tell me more about how you ran power to coil?
so what curve did you end up with? 5000, rpm Max, 15 deg initial, 32 Total and you brought the advance in early? To What , 3200, 3000, 2800?
Our total advance ended up at 35 degrees at 2,800rpm with initial advance of 12, and we kept the rev limiter at 4,500 rpm, then we fine tuned each rpm range with in 2 to 3 degrees advance depending on throttle response while in that specific rpm. She ended up smooth as silk
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 what octane rating are you using?
@@3RAV4s unfortunately the highest we can get here in my area is 91 octane
Also, let us know if the distributor itself is manufactured and assembled well with decent parts and good tolerances.
Will do
Great video. I want one but the progression website hasn't worked for weeks. Is the company still operating? Tech support exist? Where to order besides Amazon?
I’m glad you like the video thank you so much. I literally just checked out their website and it seems to work properly give it another shot maybe it’s your connection I’m not sure I will try to contact them on Monday to see if they’re still operational but thank you for the heads up and please let me know what you think of the rest of my videos
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 Would you happen to have the phone number to progression? Still can't load website
714-332-9990 Here you go
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 thank you sir
Question. I am hooking up to a mopar 440. I am trying to wire in around the ballast resistor as well. Would it work if you just disconnected ballast resistor and connected the two wires at the resistor? I guess my question is would that give you 12v at the coil to power the progression?
Thanks buddy. I hate wiring and this is one of my last steps before starting up.
You can hook it up at the ballast resistor if you want but make sure that you hook up the switch wire to the side that is providing the 12 V into the ballast resistor. Basically make sure you’re hooking up to the hot wire that is going into The ballast resistor. Whatever you do just make sure that the unit is receiving true 12v power from the battery even through the ignition switch. Keep in mind that Mopar ignition systems primarily run on 5 to 9 V make sure the unit is getting its full power requirements.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 thanks for the quick reply. Did you run the same 12 V to the positive side of the coil when you bypassed all together?
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 I think I’m going to bypass it all together, just need to figure out which wire is the ignition switch and what to do with the positive terminal on the coil.
A 12 v wire needs to go to the positive side of the coil from the ignition switch as well as the red wire for the Progression unit.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 Ok cool. So if I run relay 12v power to both + coil and progression it sounds like it would be ok.
I’m also trying to figure out what other wiring is fed off of that area by ballast resistor. I think it supplies alternator positive from voltage regulator. Thanks for your help btw.
When you set the RPMs in the app, are you able to change the RPMs and the car responds? I thought RPMs were set by the carburetor and gas flow to the engine.
The RPMs of an engine can be controlled by two things on a gasoline engine, throttle position and ignition timing. In this case yes the RPM can be set by the app and it will respond the minute you change it. However the RPMs can be further fine tuned by adjusting it at the throttle.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 Thank you for the response, I really didnt know that. On my car I set the idle with the idle screw on the carb, that's why I thought it only had to do with the carb and gas. It's tripping me out. Great video BTW
@@cac110hh any time, I’m glad the info helped.
@@cac110hh and thank you
The coil draws the current it needs, you wont fry it by the potential for more current.
Is that distributor cap with male terminals some standard part? And the wires?
The distributor can be ordered with either the female or male style distributor cap depending on your application
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 Yeah, I know, and I like the male style, but are the cap and rotor standard parts? And where would you get Mopar specific wires that fit that style? I actually have a 383 and I *really* like the rev limiting feature!
@@dahut3614 Unfortunately I don’t believe they sell any wire kit in that style for Mopar, we had to make our own out of a universal kit. As for the cap and rotor they are the same as the ones on the MSD unit so if you need replacements I imagine those would work. This distributor is heavily based on the MSD mag style distributor.
Did you guys bypass ballast resistor?
Yes, you absolutely have to because it no longer relies on that resistor for the reference voltage
In fact, you need to make sure that the distributor is getting 12 V at all times including cranking so that receives a stable signal. Otherwise he will have issues with ignition or another words make sure that the ignition switch you have provides power to the ignition system while cranking and it Has to be true 12 V
So if I am to assume. My motor creates almost no vacuum because of the cam I am running. So this distributor will not work for me
That’s an excellent question! I believe the distributor would still work as long as there at least some vacuum present. The vacuum signal simply works as a reference for tuning once the engine is running. The trigger for ignition is actually RPM so it should still work for your application.
Out of my price range
It is a bit pricey I’ll give you that
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 I would like to do on my k5 blazer but I’m just going to put a accel kit in it.
You did not show how you advance the engine 10° for the distributor how do you know it's at 10° how did you do it