How to carve an amazing balsa propeller using the laminated fan method
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- Опубликовано: 26 апр 2020
- Buy the Gipsy here: www.ripmax.com/Item.aspx?ItemI...
Superior Props: volareproducts.com/blog/?prod...
Gipsy Build, Part 1: • Ripmax Gipsy Wakefield...
Gipsy Build, Part 2: • Ripmax Gipsy Wakefield...
Flight prep: • Flight prep for big ru...
Braiding rubber motors: • Braiding rubber motors...
Prop pitch calculator: n-lemma.com/indoorrc/propcalc.htm
Nason Clutch, basic concept: freeflight.org/Library/TechLi...
Tube-in-tube freewheel bearing: freeflight.org/Library/TechLi...
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I watched this video all the way through - my moment of zen for the day. And I learned something new! Great to see this process from start to finish.
Thanks for explaining the free wheel so clearly, up to this point this was the single issue that kept me away from free flight
Loved this video! Got me inspired to try making my own prop today, thanks for the inspiration!
Hey Josh, thanks for this video. My dad introduced me to this hobby years ago, and I've recently reintroduced myself. I remember him building props using this method. Crazy, but if I showed you a picture of my dad at your age, you'd be astonished at how similar you two look. Every time I watch your videos, I'm reminded of him. Thanks 😊!
Robert, just now saw this. Brought a smile to my face. Glad you enjoyed the vid. :)
Great video, I have almost finished a Gipsy, built from an original Keil Kraft kit. I am using a very old carved prop,which someone gave me. I had fitted a latch type clutch to it, but the Nasen type clutch you made looks much better. I will change it . Keep up the good work Josh, thankyou
Great video! I will definitely use this for my r/c plane!
That’s amazing! I’m gonna have to give that a try.
Your fabrication skills are impressive. Not an easy task to produce a prop from scratch.
Awesome video! Many thanks for sharing with us!
Wow I learned something new. Thank you
Great stuff, nothing like getting your jeans full of balsa dust. I've never done a fan prop this big but I'll probably find a project for one this summer.
Wonderful video. Thank you!
Hey Josh, Thanks for this vid. Working on a much smaller 6 inch prop. This was really helpful. Nice way to make a Nason clutch. It's a bit of a pain with a small plastic prop. Thanks again, Stefman.
Yeah the small Nason clutches can be a bit fiddly. The big ones can be a bit scary though...lots of load on a bit of metal that can tear you up good if you don't have it absolutely secured.
Thank you for this video .
Gracias por impulsar el aeromodelismo...reciba un abrazo fraterno desde la gran Tenochtitlan..
Thank you
I hope you find time to do some of the other method and styles
Thanks this video i already build several balsa propellers very easily using this technique (expect that for balsa, i used abrasive almost exclusively). And more: they are better than my ugly plastics propellers ! Thanks again !
But now, i'm looking forward seeing your Gypsy fly :-)
I respect your high quality work and always check it out. It's great. I'll check out your website. Thank you.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you very much. I have really wanted to see this done with great camera angles and well explained. The razor blade got this looking like a prop in no time at all, wonderful. Please show other propeller making videos in the future. What grade of sandpaper did you use during the various stages of construction? I have heard of covering the prop with silk to strengthen it. I look forward to more prop videos. All the best.
very good idea !!!!!!!!!
Fantastic, great job! Might I suggest adding something about the shaft and clutch to the title? Nearly a third of the video shows this process.
Awesome 💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕
Salam dari indonesia bang sukses terus
great video can you do one on what size rubber motor for your model length size rubber to use thanks again
16:25 yes indeed 😃😃😃
Mantab bang
Hi, Josh. Is there a construction reason for the thick balsa pieces or was it just a case of what you had on hand? I've built several props by this method, but never used anything thicker than 1/8". You're quite right about not using the softest balsa for these. I tried building one using stretched bowtie shaped strips and had it break at the hub when I went to sanding it to final shape.
Great instructional video. Will make one for my Gipsy. But please allow one question: Is a freewheeling prop really better? The turning consumes (additional) energy, which can not be taken from the rubber. Needs to come from a higher sinkrate. I am sure i am wrong, but why?
:-)
Really nice , If you could in future vids , when you apply a glue or coating , Just Say ... I am applying ( what ever applies ) to glue or seal this surface or joint . Thanks man .. great vid .
Yeah there are a lot of issues with this vid. I'll make a better on someday.
Is it possible for you to make video on propeller clutch system ?
great video! thanks again.
I was wondering, is it possible to twist a strip of wood to make a "variable pitch propeller"? (maybe using heat and/or water?) if yes, what types of wood would be best and worst to use
thanks
Steaming slats of (mostly) pinewood and then finishing them off with a file and sandpaper is how I made propellers for years. They worked well. Boiling wood in water also softens it sufficiently to be twisted, but pin the thing down somehow so that it retains its shape as it dries
Hey Joshua, great video! I think I'll try my hand at this. Any way you could post a drawing of the clutch assembly and prop bearing details? It's a little tough to see on the video. Thanks so much for all of your great content!
OK, for the clutch, here's the basic concept: freeflight.org/Library/TechLibrary/FreeWheel,%20Nason,More.pdf
The bearing system is pretty plane jane, just a shaft withing a free tube within a fixed tube (fixed to the prop), like this: freeflight.org/Library/TechLibrary/FreewheelStruckRamp.pdf
Thanks, Joshua! I rewatched your video and saw the view at 59:30 which I had inexplicably missed the first time. It actually shows the clutch very clearly. Sorry about that. Thanks for the extra information, though. Do you always run the sleeve within a sleeve on the bearing or sometimes just a shaft straight into one sleeve? I'm assuming this is just to spread out the load of the bearing surfaces a bit? Or is it to just provide a better fit?
Joshua, I love your channel. It's very inspiring and educational. I have purchased a few items from you and I will be be buying more in the future. Do you know if there is a US based source for this Kiel Kraft kit? Maybe you should become a distributor. I think we're going to see a resurgence in "real" hobbies again. There are many people like me that are returning to the hobby as we retire and we are will be getting our grandchildren involved. Anyway, if you know of any domestic sources for these kits, please let me know. I have had not had much luck on eBay . Thanks for any help you can give me.
Thank you! I need to talk to Ripmax about what it would cost to do a dealership on their kits. I've very much enjoyed the two we built. Retro RC do carry a couple of their kits so you should try those if you haven't yet. :)
I built a kk gypsy back in 77 but the motor snapped at about 200 turns smashing the front of the fuzz, hence the 1/4 flat rubber back then sold by the yard at the model shops in England wasn't fit for hair bands.
There have been many stories like that. I know a guy who wrecked the front of a rubber model at the Nats a few years back and put it back together with packing tape well enough to win the event.
👍😎
Josh, I’m currently building the EBM 22” span Chambermaid. I’m still trying to learn the ropes on flying and while this isn’t a beginner flier, I couldn’t pass up the promise of a fun build. I’d like to give myself the best chance at decent flights. I’m nervous about carving my own prop and am crap at selecting the specs for the motor. Can you recommend a starting point? The kit comes with a 10” plastic prop and enough 1/8” rubber for a single loop that is the exact length from the peg to the prop. Not nearly enough 8 bet. Is there a better plastic prop I can start with in case my carving attempts don’t succeed? What size motor might be good?
Justin, the Chambermaid is an awesome flier. A 10" prop is fine and will give good performance, but you'll need at least 3 loops of 1/8 to make it go. Put the CG where the plans say and you should have a good flier.
joshuawfinn thanks! I’ll stick with the prop that comes in the box and also try to carve my own.
@@TexMechsRobot sounds good. Please get some video when you fly it!
What glue did you use. I used a PVA glue when I made my prop. The join was sort of rubbery and kept getting stripped away when I was sanding.
I used CA. Works for some...others find it hard to sand.
Use your thumb to push the blade rather than pull the blade. You might consider a ser of orthodontic wire tools for controlled bends.
Unfortunately I learned carving without instruction and I don't know if I can relearn it a different way at this point. 🤔
Any suggestions on which particular orthodontic tools to get?
Making props has never been my strongsuit. Great video.
Question though. You are making a clutch so the prop can freewheel after the motor is run out. Isn't there less drag when the prop is fixed, or does that only apply to full size planes where the pitch of the prop and wieght of the prop would affect the planes ability to turn?
Charles, above pitch/diameter ratios around 1.1, there is less drag if you let the prop freewheel. Below that, fixed is usually better. This is why if you ever stop the prop of a Cessna in flight, you can actually feel the airplane accelerate forward--low pitched prop coming to a stop reduces drag. The even bigger issue for rubber models, however, is that a large prop out on a long nose has a significant yaw and roll influence, so stopping the prop gives the plane a ton of right aileron trim, and usually some right rudder if there's much side thrust dialed in. This is why many rubber models will spiral in and crash if the freewheel clutch jams. Conversely electric models demonstrate a significant loss of glide performance but nearly zero trim change on braked vs unbraked props.
Hi Josh, please tell me how many pieces and size of balsa wood you need to make a 13-inch prop for Senator Kyle Kraft. How big it should be. And its angle should be a few degrees. Because my English is very weak and you speak fast. Thank you.
I finished making a balsa model airplane but now I don't have a winder. Where on earth can I buy one?
Please let me know.
Plastic winders suitable for small models are available on our website. I'm in the process of acquiring inventory to produce winders for larger models. They'll be more expensive but not crazy expensive.
How do you carve in January?
It's Georgia. It gets cold for a week and then warm for a week. Except last winter. Georgia actually got cold last winter, and stayed cold. It wasn't fun.
I can’t wait to try carving my first prop, till then, I have a question, and a suggestion... you mentioned that undercamber is not desirable, why is that? I make props from bottles as learnt from Maxfliart’s videos, and he builds in undercamber. Oh, and here’s my suggestion: never underestimate how fast something appears on screen which you think takes an age to video in real life. Put another way: when you hold up something to the camera, keep it there for at least five (real) seconds. Yes, it will feel like a ridiculously long time to you, but not to your viewers who don’t know what they’re looking at. To us, five seconds barely gives us time to hit the pause button for a longer look. Trust me, I was a film director!👍 Thanks for posting this.
Undercamber is used on boat propellers,this is where the confusion arises it adds nothing to aerodynamic thrust,check out a variety of full sized aircraft propellers and you will see the majority have a slight convex rear face to them others virtually flat,on a boat propeller it scoops the water from the undercamber from the screw effect.
Good question. Carved props and props molded on carved forms usually have little or no undercamber. Props made from plastic bottles and props molded on cylinders have natural undercamber. So, Is prop undercamber detrimental to performance or just hard to get consistent on carved props?
make 5" propeller
Hey Josh - Really appreciate your videos!! Been modelling for over 60 years, an old Dog can still learn new tricks. Just a Heads up! I ordered a number of products from Volare, a company that you recommended as a good source for rubber Model parts. My experience has not been great! On 1/27/22 I ordered over a hundred dollars of product. After waiting a month, I emailed George for a update. He replied that the Prop I had ordered had been received and they would ship within the next couple days. After another month of receiving nothing, I emailed George again - No reply. After another a week I tried to call George, no reply. After another week I sent George an email asking if they were still in business. NO REPLY. You might want to reconsider your recommendation of this company.
Well that's not good. If you're on Facebook, might be good to go in the Flying Aces Club GHQ group and yank their chain in public.
also know as how to carve a propeller if you have an innate ability, a whole heck of a lot of maths and physics in your head, and you can use your hands adeptly......
Joshua you need a microphone for your camera can't hear you mumbling.
Yeah we've switched cameras since. I'm trying to get a good microphone setup to improve further but so far none of the ones I've tried have worked with our software or hardware. Incredibly frustrating stuff.
@@joshuawfinn At least your trying to improve the sound :-)
I bought plans from Stodoys plans and did it very quickly.
Joshua, despite every one praising you to the hilt for this video, I thought this was one of your worst and most muddled videos. First you talk of a 3:1 prop, whatever that means, then a 1.3 prop, then a 23 or something prop and I am directed to imlebba(?).com, in the meantime I am lost. You have no reference for this below the video. Why didn't you use your own jig that you apparently sell and don't give me all these comments where you mention other people whom I have no clue who they are.
I was hoping this would be a tremendous learning e,experience, but instead it is a mess.
Robert, I can't help you if you yank out the one way I can help, which is to direct you toward sources to research this. You're asking for information that fills volumes of books. Look up the prop articles in the Technical Library at freeflight.org, and use the prop pitch calculator at n-lemma.com
This really is rocket science.
@@joshuawfinn I don't understand your response to my first response. I just don't understand what you are saying or what you are referring to. I'm trying to learn this prop making process. Your first 10 minutes should have been at least 1/2 hour using equipment you sell or tell me how to make these devices. I am asking for your help and you seem to be somewhat vidictive. Sorry.
@@robertlundstrom8061 well I think what you're saying is another video is needed, and I can do that. As for why I used a different pitch gage, it's a matter of that being the only one I have on hand that's big enough. The one I sell is for indoor planes and is intentionally small to make it easier to pack into a box for airline travel.
In the meantime, here's one example of the articles I'm pointing you toward: freeflight.org/Library/TechLibrary/PropDesign,MMM.pdf
I recommend going to this site and reading every article starting with "Prop": freeflight.org/library/technical-library/#P
Yes, that's a lot of material, but if you want to understood what's going on, it's the best place to find what you're looking for. Also bear in mind that I've been studying this stuff since I was a kid and still find my brain tied in a knot quite regularly.
Joshua, thanks, that is what I needed.