Repairing a cracked/stained butcher block top
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- A leaky potted plant damaged my Ikea butcher block STENSTORP cart, which caused a fairly significant crack and some dark staining. I repaired most of the stain by sanding with varying grits. I repaired the crack, which happened right on a glue joint, by cutting the entire length along the crack, which effectively removed it with one cut. I glued the two pieces back together and clamped it to dry. After drying I gave it one final sand and then applied a wipe-on polyurethane finish. The repair isn't quite perfect but it's much better than before! The cart is now back in the kitchen on coffee duty, which you'll see at the end!
Thank you for watching!
A few tools and products I used in this video...
Milwaukee drill: amzn.to/2IaJzf0
Wood Glue: amzn.to/2I9k9i5
Palm Sander: amzn.to/2EfrLCa
Tape measure: amzn.to/2rumH38
Pipe Clamps: amzn.to/2Wmo5Xb
Table saw: amzn.to/2KXkUwe
Robertson #2 bits: amzn.to/3dKVzD3
2" C-clamps: amzn.to/2BYept2
Wipe-on Polyurethane: amzn.to/2Bnqd8E
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Excellent. I really enjoyed the less talk more action style of this video!
Perfect solution!
I think so too! Thanks for commenting Luke!
I can't understand.... did you cut one broken segment of the countertop?
If the crack is about as wide as the blade, then when you saw through entire tabletop you remove the crack-width worth of materials ahead and behind the crack, then when glued back together there is no crack.
Biz is exactly right, just one blade width (1/8”) removed from the length of the top.
Well done
Great idea if your board is uninstalled and free to work with. How would you repair this if you had, lets say, used this butcher block for a mudroom bench that is basically inaccessible accept for seeing the actual crack site?
Depending on how large the crack is you could use some wood filler to hide the crack. This would only be an aesthetic repair though.
@@PatonHaus I'm going to try a precision glue bottle from rockler. Otherwise I am going to try stuffing in glue or wood putty with an appropriately sized feeler gage. This crack was not expected as I intentionally left the ends of the board unencumbered...no fixing at all on the ends.
Glue might help but without any clamping force it won’t be any better than just wood filler. If you have to refinish or stain this area be mindful that the glue/filler will not accept the finish the same way as the surrounding wood.
@@PatonHaus I am now thinking about stabilizing the hairline crack in my bench by installing some 1.25" Kreg screws from underneath. In my mudroom bench build, I glued a .75" thick red oak board (60" wide x 16" deep) to my underlayment seating cabinet (made from.75" plywood). You can't see the plywood because I put a 2" face frame board to cover both edges. The ends of the board are also hidden from view by the sides of the drywall. I will install 3-4 Kreg screws along each side the crack. The crack is about 4"-5" long. My goal is to keep it from propagating. I will restain the hairline crack that developed and cover with the same poly I used on it originally. Since I can't clamp the board together, I agree the glue will not do much for this repair, same for the wood putty.
Lovely 😊
Thank you!
Turn on closed captioning (CC) to follow along!
Nice repair and video. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Thank you!