Your Titan Aero tutorial is amazing.....I think CNC Kitchen did one and it felt incomplete. ALSO...thanks for detail the esteps portion of the configuration! You managed to provide a begin to end process! Thanks!
Your video's are always comprehensive and easy to follow. Thanks for taking the time. I thought about going Direct Drive but after watching this.. I asked myself why would I? So I won't.
I used the Petsel Evolve cooling duct and it's complicated to install and obstructs the knob to advance/retract filament. I thought I had it working well and 2 prints in, it's clicking and stopped extruding. All I can assume is the pinion gear, while flush at install, must have come out a bit...so slide the pinion out a mm or two upon tear down.
Same here, it's a 120GBP upgrade, so more than 50% increase in price of the ender 3, and results still don't look great. I think I'll just buy Prusa i3 MK3S in a kit and save myself from all the hassle.
Arek, print quality is dependent on the nozzle diameter used. With 0.8 nozzle quality will be worse, with 0.15 quality will be far better. It all depends on what speed you want to print at when using an e3d hotend. Faster = less quality. Video maker chose faster without saying you can choose slower. The 0.15 delivers SLA quality prints
i printed that same mount and noticed early in the print the whole wall for the fan missing.. many others commented on this in the thingiverse comments.. and after i fixed the STL and it printed great, i too saw the fan blowing right on the heater block.. so it went in the bin and I printed a different mount. It was a nice looking compact mount too so I was disappointed that I couldn't use it
Thank you! I just installed the E3D titan aero on my i3 Mega. I've been struggling with a great first layer and then all spongy looking under extrusion! My e steps at 832 and a my calibration is perfect. But I feel like the bigger fan is cooling the hot end. I'm having to run much higher temps than normal like 215 on pla. You answered several questions for me. I'm using the E3D pancake stepper and I feel like it's under powered. Tmc2208 stepper drivers at .85 and I'm getting some motor clicking. Motor isn't getting really hot, not even hot to the touch, but I think I'll put the full size motor back on. I wanted the pancake for a little more max x and less weight on the hot end.
Great job! You might keep your y=300mm if there is enough distance between the front wheels on the bed and belt idler mount. When i upgraded to v6 hotend i had enough clearance to move y limit switch 12 mm forward and kept the nozzle in the same x y position. Just be sure to check first if you have the neeed clearance.
If you'll tune Y bed wheels mount (drill new holes and readjust Y axis limit switch), you'll be able to save those 15mm's of travel (at least on Ender 3, but I suspect it's similiar on Tevo also) ;)
Fantasitic video as always :-) 3D Canada, puts E3D aero on all there work-hoses :-) What is it with the audio? the sound is a bit strange at times? Thanks for sharing :-)
that's the hard decision I can't make right now. I have two options for my Cr-10 and Ender 3, one is your method convert to full titan aero, the other one being Bondtech BMG but still Bowden. I've heard that with the BMG retraction goes down quite a bit especially with Capricorn Tubing, and also still less weight on the x carriage. The Titan aero for direct is close but the added weight (could use smaller motor but) and also the retraction test of BMG vs Titan makes it really hard for me to decide which way. I'm thinking of trying out the Bondtech + Capricorn XS/TL and then the other to see. Would like to hear your /you guys opinion though!
I use v6 hotend and cap tube on cr10. Max retraction i need is 3.6 to 4.0 mm with stock extruder. Print quality precision and consistency are much better than stock.
did you know that you can pause a youtube video, and use the number keys to skip back and forth thru a video. its handy on this kind of content, where you are constantly rewinding so you get it right.
Great video, but you forgot that, the real benefit of a geared extruder is to reduce weight, compared to a 1:1 ratio. because of the gear reduction, you can use a smaller(slimmer), lighter extruder motor.
What mount did you end up going with? I'm having trouble finding a good one that also has a good parts cooling fan option. Not sure I want to print the one from this video...
Nicely explained, thank you! Still, the hassle you described was enough for me to just grin and show the middle finger to ninjaflex and other flaxibles that require (well, "require") direct drive! I´ll stick to tpu, flexible enough :P
Hey Michael. Great Video. How is the quality of your belts? Maybe you can get rid of ringing by installing better 2gt belts. The whole assembly seems to be rigid enough for the titan aero. Your walls look very impressive. Cheers!
In terms of extruder changes I would recommend the barasaba direct drive kit if that's what you want or the ezr if you're retaining Bowden. Both $35 and I've done a guide video for each.
Love video. Explained most everything. Considering a direct drive upgrade from my Tornado. Have you head of the Zesty Nimble, made by a guy in the UK? It is a geared cold end Extruder that bolts on top of the hotend with a 3D printed bracket. It is supposed to be pretty light weight. I would love to see a review of the Zesty Nimble. And a comparison to the E3D Areo. Right now the Areo upgrade seems a little daunting. Plus having the added weight.
Did you ever find a setting for temp_sensor_0 that didn’t skew the temp reading so much and y_max_position bed_size isn’t present in the latest marlin firmware that I could find and I’m having trouble finding the equivalent. Converted to a skb e3 v3.0 and tft35 e3 v3.0.1 and this is my first time compiling marlin. 😂 Left_probe_bed I think I couldn’t find as well.
I like that you point out this upgrade might not be for everyone. I still have a stock ender 3 and have been considering upgrading the extruder and the hotend and it seems like if I'm already going to do those upgrades this seems like a far more logical thing to do. But I'm still mastering printing PLA and am I wrong to think I should probably print the mount in something else or should it do fine printed in PLA?
Superb tutorial as always Michael. So far I'm more than happy with my Bowden Bondtech extruder, though I have been wondering if I should look into converting it to direct drive to the Micro Swiss hotend.
how much extra work went into the firmware on your Ender 3 for the Bontech? Or was it just a direct install without anything involving firmware adjusting?
@@br0k3nilluzion Hi James, I installed the Bontech onto my CR-10 S4, although it is pretty much the same printer. The only thing that needs changing in firmware is the steps/mm for the extruder. My firmware is Marlin 1.1.9 completely configured from the ground up, to include the BL Touch etc, it is not the standard firmware. A lot of the configuration I've done is thanks to advice from Michaels videos.
Check out my direct drive. The kit I am offering costs $20 US, wont take any hardware or firmware modding, and doesnt reduce the build volume at all, I consider this Aero a no go in my book.
Hi Michael, can you make a instruction Video for the new "Micro Swiss Direct Drive" for CR-10 and Ender 3 with insert the instruction for extruder steps? Hope for Chance to see this in next time on your Chanel. It was awesome!! Thanks a lot. Greatings from Germany.😊👍🏼
So you can have a larger nozzle, higher temperatures, and more accurate extrusion. The cons is that you can't print as fast, more ringing and accuracy loss. I am wondering if this is worth it? How much print time would be saved with a larger nozzle at slower speeds? What mods do you recommend to correct the cons? Stiffer belts? more powerful x axis motor?
That mount seems familiar to me.. I want to say that the model is flawed in that front area, IIRC. I think I had the same issue with it being open like that. Check the gcode.
I have watched HOURS of your videos and have tried many of your points. my question is, I want to go to a direct drive system but only want to do it once. In your option what is the best setup for a Ender 3 without code changes. (slicer changes are ok).
Is this a universal fits none correctly part set or is it actually set up to fit another printer? If so what one? You lost me at soldering or crimping wires (wiring mods)
Hey y'all, dumb question. These direct drive mods from various channels mention weight on the x axis causing problems, so who's tried mounting the motor remotely and powering the direct drive gears with a flexible drive shaft? Less weight on the gantry is good, right?
i have a cocoon touch lots of people have recommended a glass print bed. is it as simple as shoving a piece of glass on the bed levelling and hitting print? would love to know what other mods you would recommend for this printer
I have a Titan Aero but I do not have it hooked up as a direct drive... it is hooked up to my bowden... with TH3D firmware there is a titan aero setting but with Vanilla Marlin i gotta use the guide here... does this guide work if the Titan Aero is in a bowden setup?
The Y volume is lost because the motor sits sideways. This increases a huge amount of over hanging weight in the Y minus direction. Check out my direct drive. The kit I am offering costs $20 US, wont take any hardware or firmware modding, and doesnt reduce the build volume at all.
Won’t help with that but will help by reducing the over mass of the print head assembly, should reduce some of that ringing/ghosting effect. Your right, the Titan will happily run the slimmer pancake motor. I know because I run one on my printer without issue.
@@harry-ru3dgI went to the comments to suggest same modification, too. When using another extruder with gear ratio the stock motor is too much weight for direct drive. Pancake will do better for sure. Here I think it's used because it's easier direct replacement without waiting/buying another part (but who cares $10 when spending $100+)
@@SeanOHayer Mike will be doing a review on it soon. I am sending him one to test and make a video on. Will have a link to get them at that point. Thank you for your interest!
@@TeachingTech It was literally a plug in and click print. After reading your post, and being naturally curious, I did one more print using a Prometheus V2 hotend. Didn't alter my PETG settings. Is your printer dialed in to run the filament you used? Did you rotate the structure or adjust it at all? I used AmazonBasics PETG with 10% infill @ 245/80 using PV2 to print it. Raised the z axis a hair, hairspray for adhesion/peel-off layer, and obviously pre-heated the PETG. Auto-supports filled in for me in Cura, with fan on 20%. Came out well. Used an exacto for the support cut-off. Looks good tbh, but I didn't care much for the Titan as much as the PV2 for my MPMSV2. My goto on my cr10 has been the Pico. Such a solid and reliable piece that has yet to clog a print. I trust what you're doing, but I suppose humidity, varying temps, printer settings etc could have influenced bad prints.
Yes quite a hassle... However printing TPU is a must for me and I'm tempted... sigh... What a fkn hassle though jeeeesus .... and all that weight on their doesn't give me good feelings AT ALL...
Considering the kit I am offering costs $20 US, wont take any hardware or firmware modding, and doesnt reduce the build volume at all, I consider this Aero a no go in my book.
@@carbide1968 I will have an eBay link for them soon. I am sending one to Mike for him to review on his channel as soon as the wire harness extensions come in.
Thanks for the video. It was very clear and helped me to get a few other things figured out. I recently put the Titan Aero on my Ender 3 with a BLTouch. I used a different mount though. I think the one I used might be easier to work with than that one. It was a simple print without supports. I found it at thingiverse. Look for thing: 2721575 I'm very happy with the extruder and the BLT. I just have to figure out some more tweaks to the code. The Touch doesn't deploy on its last check before printing. It's weird. Dan
2nd best thing I did to my Ender 3 was putting on a Titan Aero. 1st best thing I did was convert it to Klipper firmware. I suggest this mount and fan duct though. It's a better design. And go with a 25mm pancake stepper motor for the extruder, with the gearing it has more than enough torque and it's WAY lighter than the large extruder motor. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3078853
I would recommend this mount and duct www.thingiverse.com/thing:3078853 Supports both bl touch and round style sensor and no supports needed. Also have engineering behind the duct design for best airflow, similar to petsfang.
You really nail these walkthroughs. Completely understandable and without any considerations left out. You should be wearing a cape!
Your Titan Aero tutorial is amazing.....I think CNC Kitchen did one and it felt incomplete. ALSO...thanks for detail the esteps portion of the configuration! You managed to provide a begin to end process! Thanks!
An invaluable guide for anyone brave and patient enough to attempt this.
Your video's are always comprehensive and easy to follow. Thanks for taking the time. I thought about going Direct Drive but after watching this.. I asked myself why would I? So I won't.
Great Vid. What's the chances of seeing a vid about a dual extruder Ender 3 mod?
Not exactly the same kind of video, but on the video is Ender-3 with dual extrusion. :D
ruclips.net/p/PLyLeYnAqRVj8noXp8Cjwt5m_lL0jkPqEL
Check out Sen 3D
Thanks Michael, great stuff, keep doing what you're doing. You're killing it lately. Cheers, JAYTEE
I used the Petsel Evolve cooling duct and it's complicated to install and obstructs the knob to advance/retract filament. I thought I had it working well and 2 prints in, it's clicking and stopped extruding. All I can assume is the pinion gear, while flush at install, must have come out a bit...so slide the pinion out a mm or two upon tear down.
Great video as usual, I was thinking of changing to direct on my CR-10 and your explanations are a great help, thanks.
Have you updated to direct drive?
Been considering it for my ender3. Not sure I need it now
Same here, it's a 120GBP upgrade, so more than 50% increase in price of the ender 3, and results still don't look great.
I think I'll just buy Prusa i3 MK3S in a kit and save myself from all the hassle.
Arek, print quality is dependent on the nozzle diameter used. With 0.8 nozzle quality will be worse, with 0.15 quality will be far better. It all depends on what speed you want to print at when using an e3d hotend. Faster = less quality. Video maker chose faster without saying you can choose slower. The 0.15 delivers SLA quality prints
i printed that same mount and noticed early in the print the whole wall for the fan missing.. many others commented on this in the thingiverse comments.. and after i fixed the STL and it printed great, i too saw the fan blowing right on the heater block.. so it went in the bin and I printed a different mount. It was a nice looking compact mount too so I was disappointed that I couldn't use it
Thank you! I just installed the E3D titan aero on my i3 Mega. I've been struggling with a great first layer and then all spongy looking under extrusion!
My e steps at 832 and a my calibration is perfect. But I feel like the bigger fan is cooling the hot end. I'm having to run much higher temps than normal like 215 on pla.
You answered several questions for me.
I'm using the E3D pancake stepper and I feel like it's under powered. Tmc2208 stepper drivers at .85 and I'm getting some motor clicking. Motor isn't getting really hot, not even hot to the touch, but I think I'll put the full size motor back on. I wanted the pancake for a little more max x and less weight on the hot end.
Great job!
You might keep your y=300mm if there is enough distance between the front wheels on the bed and belt idler mount. When i upgraded to v6 hotend i had enough clearance to move y limit switch 12 mm forward and kept the nozzle in the same x y position.
Just be sure to check first if you have the neeed clearance.
If you'll tune Y bed wheels mount (drill new holes and readjust Y axis limit switch), you'll be able to save those 15mm's of travel (at least on Ender 3, but I suspect it's similiar on Tevo also) ;)
question: why do you set your esteps at 412, instead of 837 as recommended by e3D?
Fantasitic video as always :-)
3D Canada, puts E3D aero on all there work-hoses :-)
What is it with the audio? the sound is a bit strange at times?
Thanks for sharing :-)
that's the hard decision I can't make right now. I have two options for my Cr-10 and Ender 3, one is your method convert to full titan aero, the other one being Bondtech BMG but still Bowden. I've heard that with the BMG retraction goes down quite a bit especially with Capricorn Tubing, and also still less weight on the x carriage. The Titan aero for direct is close but the added weight (could use smaller motor but) and also the retraction test of BMG vs Titan makes it really hard for me to decide which way. I'm thinking of trying out the Bondtech + Capricorn XS/TL and then the other to see. Would like to hear your /you guys opinion though!
I use v6 hotend and cap tube on cr10. Max retraction i need is 3.6 to 4.0 mm with stock extruder. Print quality precision and consistency are much better than stock.
Thanks I just got the titan volcano from triangle labs yesterday for my ender 3:)
did you know that you can pause a youtube video, and use the number keys to skip back and forth thru a video. its handy on this kind of content, where you are constantly rewinding so you get it right.
Thanks for the video. I am thinking of doing this to my Ender 3 eventually.
not worth it
Great video, but you forgot that, the real benefit of a geared extruder is to reduce weight, compared to a 1:1 ratio. because of the gear reduction, you can use a smaller(slimmer), lighter extruder motor.
Think I'll give this a miss. Thanks for the video :)
I have a Titan Aero on one of my Enders and for printing TPU its a must!
What mount did you end up going with? I'm having trouble finding a good one that also has a good parts cooling fan option. Not sure I want to print the one from this video...
@@SeanOHayer I used the CNC kitchen mount and designed my own fan duct
@@MrXxbeatnikxx Any chance your design is on Thingiverse? Thanks for replying!
Great video, but, what is the right configuration firmware for Ender 3?
Amazing
Nice job though the quality of the prints except for the vase have a lot of room for improvement even for the 0.8 nozzle
Thanks, good explanation. I wonder is that a plastic gear in a $100 extruder kit?
Nicely explained, thank you! Still, the hassle you described was enough for me to just grin and show the middle finger to ninjaflex and other flaxibles that require (well, "require") direct drive! I´ll stick to tpu, flexible enough :P
Hey Michael. Great Video. How is the quality of your belts? Maybe you can get rid of ringing by installing better 2gt belts. The whole assembly seems to be rigid enough for the titan aero. Your walls look very impressive. Cheers!
I like your videos. Do you think best change for ender3 is Titan Aero?. Or Do you think there is any better option?.
In terms of extruder changes I would recommend the barasaba direct drive kit if that's what you want or the ezr if you're retaining Bowden. Both $35 and I've done a guide video for each.
Love video. Explained most everything. Considering a direct drive upgrade from my Tornado. Have you head of the Zesty Nimble, made by a guy in the UK? It is a geared cold end Extruder that bolts on top of the hotend with a 3D printed bracket. It is supposed to be pretty light weight. I would love to see a review of the Zesty Nimble. And a comparison to the E3D Areo. Right now the Areo upgrade seems a little daunting. Plus having the added weight.
Did you ever find a setting for temp_sensor_0 that didn’t skew the temp reading so much and y_max_position bed_size isn’t present in the latest marlin firmware that I could find and I’m having trouble finding the equivalent. Converted to a skb e3 v3.0 and tft35 e3 v3.0.1 and this is my first time compiling marlin. 😂
Left_probe_bed I think I couldn’t find as well.
I like that you point out this upgrade might not be for everyone. I still have a stock ender 3 and have been considering upgrading the extruder and the hotend and it seems like if I'm already going to do those upgrades this seems like a far more logical thing to do. But I'm still mastering printing PLA and am I wrong to think I should probably print the mount in something else or should it do fine printed in PLA?
Superb tutorial as always Michael. So far I'm more than happy with my Bowden Bondtech extruder, though I have been wondering if I should look into converting it to direct drive to the Micro Swiss hotend.
how much extra work went into the firmware on your Ender 3 for the Bontech?
Or was it just a direct install without anything involving firmware adjusting?
@@br0k3nilluzion Hi James, I installed the Bontech onto my CR-10 S4, although it is pretty much the same printer. The only thing that needs changing in firmware is the steps/mm for the extruder. My firmware is Marlin 1.1.9 completely configured from the ground up, to include the BL Touch etc, it is not the standard firmware. A lot of the configuration I've done is thanks to advice from Michaels videos.
Excellent, i've been contemplating doing this
Check out my direct drive. The kit I am offering costs $20 US, wont take any hardware or firmware modding, and doesnt reduce the build volume at all, I consider this Aero a no go in my book.
Hi Michael, can you make a instruction Video for the new "Micro Swiss Direct Drive" for CR-10 and Ender 3 with insert the instruction for extruder steps? Hope for Chance to see this in next time on your Chanel. It was awesome!! Thanks a lot. Greatings from Germany.😊👍🏼
So you can have a larger nozzle, higher temperatures, and more accurate extrusion.
The cons is that you can't print as fast, more ringing and accuracy loss.
I am wondering if this is worth it? How much print time would be saved with a larger nozzle at slower speeds? What mods do you recommend to correct the cons? Stiffer belts? more powerful x axis motor?
Thanks Michael, for another great video. Would this work on a CR-10s Pro?
Another great Video. Thank you.
do you tink it was worth it? I'm thinking of upgrading to hermes once it' sout on my hypercube
That mount seems familiar to me.. I want to say that the model is flawed in that front area, IIRC. I think I had the same issue with it being open like that. Check the gcode.
Looking forward to the direct drive ender 3 video.
I have watched HOURS of your videos and have tried many of your points. my question is, I want to go to a direct drive system but only want to do it once. In your option what is the best setup for a Ender 3 without code changes. (slicer changes are ok).
Do you really need that big a motor with a geared extruder? Surly there are lighter options?
Hi, what you think About mosfet on heatbed ? On ender 3. Thank you :)
Is this a universal fits none correctly part set or is it actually set up to fit another printer? If so what one? You lost me at soldering or crimping wires (wiring mods)
Changed my mind on getting this however maybe it's an upgrade to what comes stock on the artillery sidewinder x1?
You are from Australia? Why is there no ACDC music in your videos? :D
Very interested in the ender 3 specific kit :)
Hey y'all, dumb question. These direct drive mods from various channels mention weight on the x axis causing problems, so who's tried mounting the motor remotely and powering the direct drive gears with a flexible drive shaft? Less weight on the gantry is good, right?
Please create a tutorial how to install hydra direct drive dual fan
Can you recommend a well suited direct drive extruder for flexable filament for the ender 3 that is a lot less work
Question: Do I buy thee E3D Titan Aero with or without a motor? Do I use the stepper from the Enter 3 Pro extruder?
Did you ever got the problem with the filament griding
Can you use a 1mm nozzle and using settings to print at 0.1mm layers?!
I'm looking forward to get a 3D printer soon. Would you recommend a Tevo Tornado or an Ender 3 + Upgrades?
i have a cocoon touch lots of people have recommended a glass print bed. is it as simple as shoving a piece of glass on the bed levelling and hitting print? would love to know what other mods you would recommend for this printer
Have you had any issues with the firmware between a CR-10S500 and the E3DV6 Titan Aero?
Hey. The Holder was printed in PLA or ASA?
i have been trying to figure this out for a long time. is it also beneficial if you print with smaller diameter nozzles like 0.4 or 0.2
I have a Titan Aero but I do not have it hooked up as a direct drive... it is hooked up to my bowden... with TH3D firmware there is a titan aero setting but with Vanilla Marlin i gotta use the guide here... does this guide work if the Titan Aero is in a bowden setup?
I'm looking to upgrade my cr10 hotend but I don't know anything about firmware.....I mostly print with pla...any suggestions?
I tried to print this mount and just couldn’t get my support settings right for it
PLEASE rewiew microswiss Dual Gear Direct Drive All Metal Hotend
what is the maximum possible speed that you recommend?
Is it normal that my estep is 500? M92 E500. I bought my titan kit from China.
What’s the new xyz esteps with the ender 3?
If one were to use a slimmer, "pancake" stepper would the loss of Y volume be less? Should have the power due to 3:1 gearing.
The Y volume is lost because the motor sits sideways. This increases a huge amount of over hanging weight in the Y minus direction. Check out my direct drive. The kit I am offering costs $20 US, wont take any hardware or firmware modding, and doesnt reduce the build volume at all.
Won’t help with that but will help by reducing the over mass of the print head assembly, should reduce some of that ringing/ghosting effect. Your right, the Titan will happily run the slimmer pancake motor. I know because I run one on my printer without issue.
@@harry-ru3dgI went to the comments to suggest same modification, too. When using another extruder with gear ratio the stock motor is too much weight for direct drive. Pancake will do better for sure. Here I think it's used because it's easier direct replacement without waiting/buying another part (but who cares $10 when spending $100+)
@@abarasabwehttam how would one check out your direct drive? Do you have a link? Cheers!
@@SeanOHayer Mike will be doing a review on it soon. I am sending him one to test and make a video on. Will have a link to get them at that point. Thank you for your interest!
How can I put this Titan Aero on my Eder 5?
could you make a titan with e3d hotend ?
I printed the mount with no issue on a stock MPMS V2? LOL... what the... It's not a complicated print at all.
I guess me and the other people commenting on thingiverse that the file has errors simply made it up.
@@TeachingTech It was literally a plug in and click print. After reading your post, and being naturally curious, I did one more print using a Prometheus V2 hotend. Didn't alter my PETG settings. Is your printer dialed in to run the filament you used? Did you rotate the structure or adjust it at all? I used AmazonBasics PETG with 10% infill @ 245/80 using PV2 to print it. Raised the z axis a hair, hairspray for adhesion/peel-off layer, and obviously pre-heated the PETG. Auto-supports filled in for me in Cura, with fan on 20%. Came out well. Used an exacto for the support cut-off. Looks good tbh, but I didn't care much for the Titan as much as the PV2 for my MPMSV2. My goto on my cr10 has been the Pico. Such a solid and reliable piece that has yet to clog a print. I trust what you're doing, but I suppose humidity, varying temps, printer settings etc could have influenced bad prints.
i keep getting PID error messages for all different things
Yes quite a hassle... However printing TPU is a must for me and I'm tempted... sigh... What a fkn hassle though jeeeesus .... and all that weight on their doesn't give me good feelings AT ALL...
Or just by a sovol sv01 and aero heat sink
Considering the kit I am offering costs $20 US, wont take any hardware or firmware modding, and doesnt reduce the build volume at all, I consider this Aero a no go in my book.
Should also state that as always you do nothing but the finest in reviews with the best details and step by steps. You do an awesome job my friend!
Gotta a link to your kit?
@@carbide1968 I will have an eBay link for them soon. I am sending one to Mike for him to review on his channel as soon as the wire harness extensions come in.
@@abarasabwehttam any updates?
@@fwdsrq Teaching Tech did a video installing one of my kits last week. They are available on eBay. Search for Ender 3 Direct Drive
Thanks for the video. It was very clear and helped me to get a few other things figured out. I recently put the Titan Aero on my Ender 3 with a BLTouch. I used a different mount though. I think the one I used might be easier to work with than that one. It was a simple print without supports. I found it at thingiverse. Look for thing: 2721575
I'm very happy with the extruder and the BLT. I just have to figure out some more tweaks to the code. The Touch doesn't deploy on its last check before printing. It's weird.
Dan
the topic says ender 3 mod but no info about ender 3
This is covered in the video, please revisit. The mounting is exactly the same.
2nd best thing I did to my Ender 3 was putting on a Titan Aero. 1st best thing I did was convert it to Klipper firmware.
I suggest this mount and fan duct though. It's a better design. And go with a 25mm pancake stepper motor for the extruder, with the gearing it has more than enough torque and it's WAY lighter than the large extruder motor.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3078853
нехуя непонятно! в чем проблема прилооить ссылку к кастомному марлину под это дело?
91 comments and questions and not one answer or reply comment from him. Don't waste your time with all the questions people.
he replied once but it was kind of defensive. and not to a question
I would recommend this mount and duct www.thingiverse.com/thing:3078853
Supports both bl touch and round style sensor and no supports needed. Also have engineering behind the duct design for best airflow, similar to petsfang.
Overpriced & over hyped plus when you're all done you have a hot end that is unserviceable.
Thanks Michael, for another great video. Would this work on a CR-10s Pro?