Had this problem ! drove me insane tracked it down to after market hard wired tracker and faulty instrument set - clocks - speedo cluster Changed for secondhand one - car also has some 12v drain from after market reversing camera and dash cam - increased battery to 78amp seems fine now 🙏
Had the same problem with fuse 14 in the dash, running the front amp. Set a cutoff switch in that circuit and just flip the switch when I shut down and leave. No more issues.
Nice done, thank you for sharing. I will use same approach and I suspect the amplifier as well given my 2004 9-3 2.0T convertible lets in some water. When charging the battery it dies again quickly. I hope it is not the CIM. I have had challenges starting the car the past 2 wks.
I recently bought 06 aero 93 and replaced the battery maybe 2 months into ownership. the spare key fobs that came with the car can't be programmed because of a problem with... cim? but I have a draw that has drained my new battery. I'm going to try this technique. I sure hope disconnecting the battery won't make the car forget my one and only key fob is the one to start this car. I will be subscribing hoping you do more videos on the 06
First thing I would do is find the draw. As long as the battery IN the fob is ok then most likely it won't forget the key. When I got the Saab it had been dead for over a year and started fine with the key. I believe you need tech 2 gm scanner or just take to the dealer to have new keys programmed. I have a tech 2 but still learning it. I do plan to make more videos on this Saab.
Thank you for the video. I have been having this same problem. I was standing by the car and put my hand on the side view mirror and discovered it was very hot even thought the car was not running. I think this is my culprit. Looking at the fuse box, I can't seem to find the fuse that runs the side view mirror heaters. Would you happen to know the location of that fuse by chance?
Hey man I'm getting battery not charging on my 06 2.8 sedan, changed alternator twice already and no difference, cleaned all pos and neg lines running to terminals, am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated
Hi, it might be the B+ battery cable that is the issue. The Positive cable can be bad for instance. The voltage between the B+ and the + battery terminal see if there is voltage drop in between while the car is in idle. Here is a test to do this: axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Charging-System-Voltage-Drop-Test
Hello, great video. I seems to have a electrical problem with my saab 9-3 TTiD Aero I think I have identified one reason to the issue is that my plus (+) terminal is getting really hot. Since my alternator seems to produce in engine idle put out about 14,2 - 14,4 volt bit the voltage is about 1 volt between B+ ont he alternator to the + terminal on the battery. Anyway I also want to search for possible amperage draw on the car. But I not sure how I make the car go to it "sleeping mode". What is required? Should I open the doors and make the push the doors and tailgate latches have in lock position and lock the car? Won't the car alarm go off then when door are open and the hood and tailgate open?
@@saabin907-5 It worked for me. I only closed the doors and had the driver door open which I closed the latch with a screwdriver. The bonnett was open so I could acess the battery. Got 0.00 amperage already after 10 minutes. Stayed and monitored more than 25 minuts. I saw that the system was doing some check with even intervals the amp then was up to 0,25 - 0,3 A and dropped back to 0,00 amps . So everything seems to be fine so it seems there is no parasitic draw.
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Had this problem ! drove me insane
tracked it down to after market hard wired tracker and faulty instrument set - clocks - speedo cluster
Changed for secondhand one - car also has some 12v drain from after market reversing camera and dash cam - increased battery to 78amp
seems fine now 🙏
Glad you found it! Electrical gremlins are the worst.
Had the same problem with fuse 14 in the dash, running the front amp. Set a cutoff switch in that circuit and just flip the switch when I shut down and leave. No more issues.
Nice done, thank you for sharing. I will use same approach and I suspect the amplifier as well given my 2004 9-3 2.0T convertible lets in some water. When charging the battery it dies again quickly. I hope it is not the CIM. I have had challenges starting the car the past 2 wks.
Have your battery tested to cancel that one out first. Good luck. O-BUS diag is the next challenge on the saab
Thanks man! This really helps
I recently bought 06 aero 93 and replaced the battery maybe 2 months into ownership. the spare key fobs that came with the car can't be programmed because of a problem with... cim? but I have a draw that has drained my new battery. I'm going to try this technique. I sure hope disconnecting the battery won't make the car forget my one and only key fob is the one to start this car. I will be subscribing hoping you do more videos on the 06
First thing I would do is find the draw. As long as the battery IN the fob is ok then most likely it won't forget the key. When I got the Saab it had been dead for over a year and started fine with the key. I believe you need tech 2 gm scanner or just take to the dealer to have new keys programmed. I have a tech 2 but still learning it. I do plan to make more videos on this Saab.
What was the problem (I have issue with the same fuse :/ ??
It was my rear audio module. It's located in the right rear of a sportcombi.
Thank you for the video. I have been having this same problem. I was standing by the car and put my hand on the side view mirror and discovered it was very hot even thought the car was not running. I think this is my culprit. Looking at the fuse box, I can't seem to find the fuse that runs the side view mirror heaters. Would you happen to know the location of that fuse by chance?
@saabin907 Hi, could you tell me what pdf file you are using on your laptop to read all this things?
I used a program called identifix. Hope that helps you
Hey man I'm getting battery not charging on my 06 2.8 sedan, changed alternator twice already and no difference, cleaned all pos and neg lines running to terminals, am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated
Hi, it might be the B+ battery cable that is the issue. The Positive cable can be bad for instance. The voltage between the B+ and the + battery terminal see if there is voltage drop in between while the car is in idle. Here is a test to do this: axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Charging-System-Voltage-Drop-Test
Sorry for not replying. I assumed you probably fixed it. Did you ever check for fuses? A small issue that's overlooked many times
Hello, great video. I seems to have a electrical problem with my saab 9-3 TTiD Aero I think I have identified one reason to the issue is that my plus (+) terminal is getting really hot. Since my alternator seems to produce in engine idle put out about 14,2 - 14,4 volt bit the voltage is about 1 volt between B+ ont he alternator to the + terminal on the battery. Anyway I also want to search for possible amperage draw on the car. But I not sure how I make the car go to it "sleeping mode". What is required? Should I open the doors and make the push the doors and tailgate latches have in lock position and lock the car? Won't the car alarm go off then when door are open and the hood and tailgate open?
Open the doors and use a screw driver to close the latches. The car should think you closed the doors and go to sleep. Hope this helps you out
@@saabin907-5 It worked for me. I only closed the doors and had the driver door open which I closed the latch with a screwdriver. The bonnett was open so I could acess the battery. Got 0.00 amperage already after 10 minutes. Stayed and monitored more than 25 minuts. I saw that the system was doing some check with even intervals the amp then was up to 0,25 - 0,3 A and dropped back to 0,00 amps . So everything seems to be fine so it seems there is no parasitic draw.