Building a Custom Exhaust for my LS Swap Datsun Ep. 15
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- In today's episode, Nate and I are continuing fabrication on the rest of the exhaust system for my LS Swapped Datsun 280z Project Car Build. The exhaust will be a dual 3" system, with a custom made X-pipe, flex section, and quad exit Vibrant resonators built in a completely custom muffler section mounted extremely high on the rear of the car. We also built adjustable exhaust hangers. This was incredibly fun to fabricate, uniquely challenging, and I can only imagine how LOUD this custom exhaust is going to be.
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WARNING: This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. Have fun, but always think ahead, and remember that every project you try is AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Not only is it kick ass you gave a true sense of the huge amount of time it took.
And how having all the tools to dial in the exhaust with a million dollar SEMA pro look . Great work great vid
Hey thanks so much! I've really been swinging for the fences effort wise trying to build so it means a lot hearing this!
I need to hear the sounds
If this isn't motivation to get the car running, I don't know what is 🤘🤘
Holy crap, calling that system "sick" isn't enough...it's beautiful man!
It's gone way too long in between fabbing the rest of the exhaust and still not hearing it run!
so neat & tidy exhaust - can't wait to hear the "music" of that LS when you first fire it up ..
I'm officially addicted to this build
Im glad to hear it!!
stumbled on these videos, need to know if this project ever finished!
It had to get put on pause because of some severe flood damage at my home. I'm still going to finish the project on RUclips, though!
Nice Real Nice
Thank you!
Just found your channel! I'm hooked. Keep up the awesome work!
Welcome aboard! Thank you!
Im enjoying this series
Hey I'm glad to hear that thank you!
That rear end view is looking very aggressive. Loving the content.
The idea for how I've wanted the rear to look has been like burned into my head- finally getting it all together was a surreal experience and I wouldn't change a thing 🤘
Music vs your voice is so much better in this video! There's still some room for improvement but I think it's going on the right track. That soldering looks tight tho🤩
Awesome, I'm glad to hear its improving! Ive been tweaking different settings with my mic and post to clear things up and balance volume better
I just caught one of my videos on a friend's device that had that super noticeable imbalance and I'm really sorry they were doing that to you! Im looking into what I can do here because they all sound the same on my computer during the edit
Saw this on Reddit, amazing job and great video!
Thank you!
Nice work. I'm still surprised you don't have more subscribers yet. But i belive that part gonna explode soon 😁
I'm really grateful for everyone who's given my channel a chance so far! A lot of channels post a LOT more frequently than I'm able to, so I'm glad people still choose my videos when I upload!
Its because of the music 😐
Which size fuel safe cell did you go for? I think the height is perfect.
It fits awesome! 15 gallon 26in x 18in x 9.5in
Love that Z man!! Great build going!!
Thank you!!
Very nice looking system for it love the true quad v on those “mufflers” 🤣
It was definitely worth the extra effort to do the Y collectors, I do think a quad exhaust is a little much for a Z but it helps elongate the width of the panel I think to better suit the wide body
AMAZING
Hey thank you Joaquin!
@GrindhousePE it means a lot that you reply brother. Outstanding build.
Damn, that is beautiful.
Thank you so much Patrick!
Looking GOOOOOD my man!
🤘🤘 thanks so much!
Love process you're taking us through!
One question though, how was your guy able to weld the stainless exhaust tubing and make it look good and be strong without backpurging it?
You’ve inspired me to just go get it done, and that perfect is unobtainable so just keep it moving.
Thank you! It's a good question and one I'm surprised I didn't get before. When we built the headers, we did back purge everything because the range of heat cycling is much higher on the primaries. I had asked Nate about back purging the exhaust and he showed me the inside of his welds. His explanation is there's a pretty narrow band where you can get away without it, and that back purging gives you a wider band to protect from issues. If the welds crack down the road or we have issues I'll definitely revisit it, but since it's not boosted, I'm not expecting a ton of heat cycle related failures. The insides of the welds I could see didn't have any crystallization but only time and running it will tell. I went into this part of the project trusting his experience and judgement on it since this is mostly all still new to me.
@@GrindhousePerformance thanks!
That’s the difference between a veteran fabrication professional and me. Lol!
I just got my order of circle guide templates I saw you using. Damn I never thought of that for prototyping and fab work.
Is it going to be a race car or a show car
I'm not planning to do major competitive racing events but it'll see time attack, HPDE, etc. It will be street driven and primarily used to get people interested in future builds on the channel 👍
Curious about the slip fit connection. Is some of the pipe you purchased already expanded? Or did you do yourself?
I think they came with a stainless works dodge challenger exhaust I'd installed. Think they ship the same kits for chargers and challengers with interchangeable mid pipes... I scavenged them... I think. 😅
In the words of Jim Carrey
"B-E-A-UTIFUL"
Hey thank you!
I recently bought a 1974 260 Z that already has a chevy small block. The car has been lowered a bit and the headers sit pretty low to the ground (maybe 2") as does the whole 3" exhaust system which exits on both sides of the car in front of the rear wheels.
I am probably going to go back to stock springs to raise it up. I saw this video and your exhaust sits nice and tucked. Is there an aftermarket header that would fit tighter under the car, I realize you custom built yours but was hoping someone makes one. What is a good ground clearance height to shoot for on the exhaust.
I'm honestly not sure, I think you'll find unless you find a header intended for a different chassis, you'll either pay out the nose for a datsun specific set that fits tightly in the right ways, or have to live with one that fits more loosely. 2" is really tight, especially on a street car.. mines not a whole lot better than that for the v bands, but my suspension is also pretty stiff. The rule of thumb Ive heard is wanting 4". If you get coilovers instead of springs you can trial and error a little bit as well since they're adjustable
Found you on reddit, only quality content here! Im glad to have found you
Awesome, welcome to my channel! I hope you enjoy the series 👍
Same, this channel deserves a ton of more subscribers!
Killer!!!
Thanks!
So you'll convert it to an oval exhaust on your first trip to the shops hey
Was wondering if there is a parts list somewhere for this build.
Hey I've been meaning to add one on my website but I haven't done one yet- is there something specific you're curious on?
i highly doubt you live close but if you do id love to help and learn from TN
TN is quite a haul from here! I was talking with some friends about hosting some kind of workshops down the road though if it's something people would be interested in
@@GrindhousePerformance that would be fun i’m going to build an LS datsun here pretty soon so i might have a few questions
What did you use for headers?
Nate and I built a one off set of long tubes
@@GrindhousePerformance I should hire you to build some for me
Fantastic work and result again sir. I'm jealous. I did laugh a bit at your "mufflers". Basically you have an open exhaust, all those resonators will do is soften the harshness a bit, I don't think they will lower the DBs. But clearly you're ready for that and know what you're doing. Building my headers and exhaust I echoed your experience with argon. I went through bottle after bottle after bottle.
Tell me, are you going to paint the car or have a pro do it? I'm currently painting mine, and it is a very long and tedious job. Far more so than I imagined. Removing all the weld spatter/other flaws, scuffing every square inch of the car, seam sealing, and doing much of this stuff in awkward and contorted positions. It's a bitch. I started in May and expect (hope?) to be done in October. Part of the reason in my case it is so involved is because I had the entire car blasted at the start of the project. So literally every inch of it needs to be painted....
After seeing your exhaust, it means a lot to have you comment so positively at what I've come up with here. There's a really good chance this winds up being waaaaay too loud, but that's the aggressive attitude of the car I'm really going for. There's some room for adding small mufflers later on possibly, but man do I want to hear it run now.
I am planning on building a paint booth in the shop and spraying everything here. I'll have to do the full underside, interior, roll cage, and exterior. I've painted a little before and it's actually a part of the build I'm really looking forward to, but it, like everything here, will also be a tonnnnnnnnnnn of time
@@GrindhousePerformance One thing I have learned, painting a fully caged car is very difficult. Not only does the cage severely limit access, it also introduces all these weird angles from which the countless tubes must be painted. The only way I have managed to do it is to have several spray guns of different design and size, including one that sprays at the end of a 14" wand. That was also the only way I could conjure to paint the inside of the windshield wiper motor recess. I mean, how else could it be done? Painting the underside of the car, the only way to really do that is to have a siphon feed gun, unless you have a rotisserie, which I cheaped out on....and have spent the last few weeks regretting it. Regardless, you will find you need a siphon gun to paint the ceiling, underside of the dash, etc...
Fortunately my tube work is a lot less complex than yours, I'm only going to run a 4 point cage in it because the forward bars would be way too close to my head for any street driving. That's great tips on the siphon gun, I was planning to use a small detail hvlp but that's solid advice. Did you use a single stage paint on the cage or did you do full base/clear?
@@GrindhousePerformance I'm only using base clear on the few "exterior" panels on the shell, namely the roof, pillars, taillight surround, etc. For the underside and interior, I am using "Delfleet Essential", which is an Imron clone intended for trucks and busses. I like it because it is single stage and extremely durable. It also has a relatively long recoat window so I can apply Lizard Skin and Raptor Liner without (hopefully) having to re-scuff. I scuffed the entire shell once already...do NOT want to do it again. If I have enough Delfleet left, I will use it in the engine compartment and front inner fenders as well. If it runs out, I have enough Deltron DCC for that....which is also a single stage. The DCC unfortunately has a very short recoat window.
The base/clear system is nice, but I don't even want to think about doing two coats of base and three of clear within the confines of the interior and underside. Particularly since most of it is going to be covered with other products anyway. My cosmetic prep (basically non-existent) on the nether regions of the car is no where near the level that I could achieve the shine that two stage products are capable of anyway. I am just going gray epoxy...seam sealer...white epoxy...single stage color....then Lizard Skin and/or Raptor Liner depending on location.
I have a small siphon feed HVLP gun that allows the paint bottle to pivot so it stays vertical no matter the direction the gun is pointed. It has been essential, but for some reason I cannot figure it has been very temperamental. I clean it religiously after each use, but some times it flows a ton of paint and other times very little. I mean, it's a simple device...I cannot fathom the cause of the inconsistency.
Mannn that sounds super frustrating! Im hoping since ive already put the whole car in epoxy once before, most of the chassis will just need to be scuffed, at least for the underside and interior. I was planning epoxy with lizards skin right on top for the interior, then single stage for the cage (probably spray the cage first since it's easier to mask the cage to spray the interior).. I'm going all out on the exterior.. epoxy, sealer, base, clear, then cutting the clear and respraying some extra coats
Beautiful! Very pleasant video, no bullshit and excessive hype. Subbed ;-)
Thank you for the kind words, I hope you enjoy the build Larry!
Hi there David my name is Luis! I’m planning on doing the same if not similar build as yours I just picked up a 74 260z and want to do a LS3 swap the car currently is a shelf pretty much! I would love to pick your brain on your build to see where I can start on mine! Please let me know how I can get into contact with you !
Hey Luis, send me a DM on Instagram @grindhousepe and I'd be happy to chat 👍👍
Hey dude, tell me something. How far do your header collectors and 3" exhaust tubes protrude below the frame rails? I re-watched this video and your header video....but I can't really tell. I am just finishing final assembly on my car and one thing that keeps hitting me is....damn....the exhaust sits pretty low. It is by far the lowest thing under the car...I mean....I might have 3" ground clearance for the exhaust....maybe....but no more. I'm not kicking myself or anything...because I knew this would be an issue and basically already tucked it up as far as I could. Only way I could have gained more clearance would have been to use smaller primaries/collectors/exhaust diameter, and I didn't want to choke the engine. It hangs low enough that I think if the suspension hits the bump stops the exhaust might well hit the ground.
Lets just say I will be avoiding speed bumps. Are you in a similar boat, or did you miraculously find some way to get it further up?
I tucked everything the best that we were able to manage but about half the diameter of the tubes do hang below the frame rails. I want to say I had 3, maybe 3.5" from the lowest point of the exhaust to the ground at ride height. I did adjust my front coilovers a bit from my initial height setting to get a touch more breathing room. The v-band from the header to the exhaust is my lowest point. I could gain the thickness of the v band if I'd done a slip fit joint, but hindsight is 20/20... I'm going to run with it for now and honestly cross my fingers. Ive got no concern for the rear beneath the diff, I bumped the rear ride height quite a bit for the stance the car has. It's just those dang v-bands I'm really concerned about. Mine will see street miles more than track, so I'm most likely in trouble if I ever do get this mess running!
@@GrindhousePerformance You really REALLY want to weld on a little stainless steel "ramp" from angle stock or whatever in front of each V-band. Just so anything that hits will glance off rather than actually grabbing the V-band....if that makes sense.
It sounds like you are about in the same boat as me. I have my ride height set at track car levels....I might bring it up a half inch or so...as you said...breathing room.
Really solid advice there, I'll look at adding something the next time I've got the tubes off 👍
isn't the exhaust, which is very hot, too close to the fuel cell? This will make the fuel very very hot. Also, shouldn't there be some metal behind the fuel cell to prevent a rear-end collision causing super hot fuel to spill that can cause the car to explode? Ever heard of Ford Pinto and exploding gas tanks? You need to build some metal separating the fuel system from the interior and put some serious structure behind the fuel cell.
Good questions! Only a very short (~3") section of the inner resonators are close (~1.25") to the cell, the rest of the system has much more clearance between the exhaust and the enclosure of the fuel cell. There's a thick plastic tank inside the aluminum fuel cell casing which actually contains the fuel, that also has an air gap on the inside. The aluminum outer shell is able to act as a large heat shield. I'll be monitoring fuel temperatures to see if any additional insulating materials will be required, but I think this will be OK. Worst case, I can add some baffling to the Y pipe outlets to divert more of the exhaust to the outer tips. I've added much more impact protection in more recent videos! Thanks for checking out my build!
@@GrindhousePerformance Sorry to thread jack but reply is the only way to tag users now. I'm a moderator at clubsx4.com and we would love to have you there. Paprika is awesome, I'm on my second copper SX4 as a winter car to spare my ST but Paprika makes me want to do all the mods over again.
@@mbellamy82 we've referred to club sx4 a few times now! My wife will get an acct going 👍
Want to weld a x pipe for my 280z
What would you like, just the 2 90s cut and welded or something more?
Alright man we all want to know, how much were all the parts on this build!?
There are two things you should never ask... you never ask a woman how much she weighs, and you never ask an idiot how much he's put into a project car 🤣🤣🤣. I should put something together summarizing everything, but I also know ive got a few thousand more coming in paint, wiring, and fabrication. Summary video when everything's said and done??
Your Z > new Z
How brave and controversial 🤣
First
Too low views for quality of content
Thank you! It does look like more and more people are slowly sharing and finding the channel!