Top 5 Bass Trap Placement Mistakes (And How to Fix Them!)
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
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Ever feel like even after putting your bass traps in place the low end still feels a bit...off?
Maybe even that, no matter what you do, those standing waves just won’t behave?
Maybe you’ve stacked your traps floor to ceiling hoping that, “That should do it,” only to realize later that the results are still underwhelming.
Or perhaps you’ve used those slim panels that everyone swears by, and yet, your low end is still all over the place.
What if I told you that it’s not just about having bass traps, but how and where you place them?
Most people only focus on the vertical corners.
That’s a solid start, sure.
But it’s not the whole story.
The truth is, if you’re only using the vertical corners, you’re missing out on a big chunk of what those traps could actually be doing for you.
And that’s just one of the top five bass trap placement mistakes I see all the time.
In this week’s video, I break down these common mistakes and show you exactly how to fix them.
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I have some work to be done! Thnx again. Love this. Cheers from Holland
Thanks for that, I've done by my self all the treatment at my studio, if you want to look at will be great. I've leaned just from RUclips and your videos . Thanks 🙏
I would honestly love to see the frequency response of your room before and after treatment.
He has that in other videos.
He detailed adding the internal wall at the back to get more favourable dimensions. I think it was in a video about using consistent monitoring volume in your studio.
How much will you need… A LOT! SERIOUSLY
Where should I put it………EVERYWHERE!!
How deep should it be…….AS DEEP AS POSSIBLE
How much will it cost……..A CRAP TONNE
I got 80 panels over 3 years, could always get more 😂
and remember: you can use the floor corners too HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Have you already started to cover the floor?
I spent around 6-7 months documenting about this stuff before I built my room. It paid off. I only used 5k material and depths between 30 cm and 50 cm. My wall coverage is like 35% and It sounds better than I expected. If you have the space, do it!
Thanks Jesco! You say that panels are better with an air gap behind them - is the air gap actually better than having more absorption material in that gap? In other words, I get that a 6" panel + 6" air gap is better than a 6" panel straight on the wall, but is it better than a 12" panel straight on the wall?
(I'm particularly thinking about corners, where you can get triangular absorbers that fill the whole corner with material. It seems like those would be better than a panel that was the same size front face but with an air gap behind.)
From what I understand, the air gap increases performance at lower frequencies.
If you double the material you may end up absorbing too much of the mid/high frequencies.
Try to target a balanced response curve.
Yes be nice to have a few frequency response charts to see
I have a room with one wall basically just glass ! The speakers are placed along this glass wall . What’s the best way to treat the room ? Would a base trap behind the speakers work ?
How do you find gas flow resistivity? It seems near impossible to find.
I was hoping to hear that You'll mention that there is one more Mistake (Misandertunding), and that is the "air gap" behind the absorber that is put across when the two surfaces (eg. walls) meet SJOUL be FULL-FILLED. Otherwise, You are making a resonant cavity, and that's NOT what You want. Right?
Cheers!
Hey Jesco, hey guys, when I saw the first mentioned mistake I instantly thought "Yeah, I know what he's talking about, I've been through that".
I'm in the process of planning my new studio, and since I'm not an engineer nor a "handy guy", I decided to get rid of wooden frames in my panels. It just gives too much weight to fat panels, and I think that I'll be able to place fat slabs in upper horizontal corners in a certain angle, by simply wrapping them into a cloth and tying them with ropes to hang there. Basically I hope to use a single hook-hanger for each of mine traps near the ceiling, placing the trap centered over that hook, and tilting it just right.
I think I'm gonna buy a couple of those big european rockwool packs (where each piece is 10cm thick), cut them in halves and form narrow, 40cm slabs, so they would look as a kind of ray, radiating from these horizontal corner
Thanks for your work Jesco, you really helped me to create that vision of a studio!
Or get some diaphragmatic absorption if you have the room
A little bit misleading title of this one. Points 2-4 are not really about placement at all. And point 5 contradicts point 1. A better video would have been where to place membrane and Helholtz traps to target specific modes/frequency issues. Also it is kind of possible to target specific modes with broadband absorption by placing in areas of highest velocity for that mode (although most often highly impractical and not the best way to deal with it).
Okay now you got me thinking - I have a null around 120hz, 300hz and 500hz that I can't seem to get rid of no matter where I place my treatment, and I have kind of a lot of it... Going back to look at the air gap now, I had no idea messing up the air gap size could result in these weird mid issues. Will report back soon!
Hi Jesco, you wear a PSI Audio t-shirt 😊 What is your opinion about their active bass traps? PSI Audio Avaa C214 for example. Thanks!
So, I subscribed to your thing on the link, clicked the link in the confirmation email, and it just says well done you can now go to the home page or whatever you want.... But where's the PDF to be found?
It should say download guide in the email
@@ihustle7970 Ahhh dammm I see it now - it comes from a different address and was caught by the spam folder. I was looking for something from the same email. Thanks dude.
The mistake i see people making is mounting panels on the wall about 2 feet up from the floor…when they could free stand the trap and create an air gap…maybe not a mistake as this method looks quite a bit better 😉
To be honest it is a sad that this professional mixing engineers don't learn from others.
For example if they just choose subwoofer enclosures that don't impact the room that for example bass reflex boxes does. With their bass pressure cannons (we all seen those reflex ports being able to blow out a candle on RUclips.😂).
Guess were that pulse wave of delayed sound goes..😂😂
And the the other upside is you get better reproduction and definition of your sound that give you a easier time to be able to mix more accurate.❤
The downside is that it is a less efficient enclosure and we need a greater cone area if/when using OB.
But you don't remotely get the same amount of problems in the room and therefore don't need the same amount of bass traps (so you win some and loose some space).
But better definition and performance as a added Sherry on the top!❤
I use two 18" OB hanging in the air (away from the reinforcing floor boundary) in a H frame/enclosure.
Those that have not experienced OB that can produce bass down and below 20 hz will be baffled at there is no hit and pounding in your chest or stuff vibrating from the sound waves.
Regardless of how high volume you play.
There is just the sound that is recorded and no ARTIFICIAL "bom bom" delayed smearing sound coming from a bass reflex tube or we can call it a "sound pressure cannon(s)" when it is in practice like a coneless woofer with infinite X-max...😂
Guess what that cannon do to your room! .. 😂
How exactly do we calculate the density needed for the insulation material? And ive seen a lot of youtube videos where they fill the whole corner with insulation. Will this work or do you want to cut the insulation to have the air gap?
RW45 Rockwool is supposed to be a good all-rounder.
But a density to frequency chart would be very handy.
There is a graph that relates the density of the wool with the resistivity to air flow.
Good points but also discussed in master handbook of acoustics.
Nice clear video thanks, do you have a calculator, formula or overview which depth needs which density? I got a lot of Knauf Acoustifit left over which i like to use for basstrapping. both backwall and ceiling corners.
Let's say you are renovating/building a house with wood framing and have chosen a room to build into a studio. Would it make any sense to not install drywall on the interior side of the studio and instead use insulation between the studs and install some fabric, like on your panels, in place of the drywall? In order to provide some diffusion and a surface to mount things to, strips of wood could be mounted vertically from floor to ceiling on top of the fabric, forming a slat wall look. Any thoughts?
If you really want to go for it. I suggest putting the absorption material “inside” the wall. That should give you some great acoustic from the get go. And you probably won’t have to do as much treatment with panels afterwards.
However since I’m not a native speaker I’m not quite understanding what you mean with “studs” but I think it’s what I mean.
I also suggest you contact some professional acoustic people to check with them. Because if you end up putting absorbtion around the whole entire room, the sound might be a little too flat for your liking. If I had the chance to put absorbing in my wall I would totally do it instead of having to treat your room with 30 panels just to get the sound decent.
I hope that could help a little bit
This mouse kills me, I love it! I'm moving at the end of the year and finally will treat my first room (for hifi use).