Hey there guys. I appreciate your video. I had the same problem with my mom's C5 and the dealer quoted me $800 to fix it. I watched your movie and decided to give it a shot myself. I followed the same steps you took. I remove that black hose to get more access. I had my mom put her small hand back there and un-clip the connector. I was able to get the socket on the sender no problem and removal was a piece of cake. Now the reinstall, this was a lot of trouble because it was almost impossible to use the extending angled needle nose pliers to start the sender in the hole. What i did was i put some tape inside my 27mm deep socket and wedged the sender into the socket that way it would be medium tight. I feed the deep socket back into place and effortlessly tightened the sender back in its original location. I thought the hard part was over but i was wrong. The re-installation of the harness clip was a royal pain. It important to feel around the sender to find the notch so you know which way the harness clip needs to face. Keep in mind you can't see and this is all by feel. I was able to get the clip on the sender but it wouldn't press on so i used a long extension and pushed the clip with medium force and it went in place. The entire job took about 1.5 hour but it's totally doable and this video really help and saved me a lot of coin considering the part was only $50 dollar from Autozone. Thanks again for the great video. Whiskey Matt
Thanks for the instructions. Although I gave it a try and was able to remove the old sensor, I was not able to easily thread the new sensor into the hole. I tried and tried and tried but the threads on the sensor ended up getting stripped. I reluctantly removed the fuel rail and everything else which caused a separate problem with a broken vacuum tube, but I was much more easily able to get the sensor installed properly with the everything off. Not really sure which way is best but wanted to give people a fair warning that even this more simple method may not be easy for everyone. Good luck to those who try!
Ok, so I just did this job, and while I tried every which way to make more room to get my mitts in that tiny space, it just wasn't gonna happen. I highly recommend you get a regular 1-1/2" socket AND an extension socket of the same size. The smaller socket just won't go over the sending unit. The clip on the sending unit can be accessed with a coat hanger curving it like a "U" and you have to simultaneously tug on it while using the extension pliers. Removal after that was a breeze! (Victory!) Getting the new unit in takes a whole lot of patience to catch the threads, but once they're "caught", you can button up the job with relative ease. Take your time and it'll work. Great job Petr!
Thank you for the video and instructions, it helped me great deal. For the install, I could not find the shorter socket, so I used a flex claw pickup tool to first place the new sensor and then held it down with one finger and then slowly rotated the sensor with a long reach stick or screw driver to at least 1 thread. Once that was in place, I put in my socket and tightened it. I did the same with the connector as well, placed it with the flex claw pickup tool and then pressed it down with a long reach screw driver. It was not too difficult. Thank you again for the video.
I finished the sensor relocation on my 2003 C5 today. I did this job about 2 years ago but I didn't install the extender. So, here we are again. (I bought the extender hose with fittings on Amazon for $99). I didn't want to disturb more than necessary and I didn't want to drill any holes. I did not remove anything except the plastic engine cover. Although it was a royal pain in the butt, I was able to disconnect the old sensor and pull it out. For me, the hardest part was threading the extender hose into the engine. I could not get the threads lined up while rotating the hose. I had my son come over and somehow he got it threaded on his first try. 8-) Now, my oil pressure gage no longer thinks it's a windshield wiper. It was continuously slamming full scale and back to zero. Now it sits rock steady at 42 PSI at cold idle. If (when?) this new sensor fails, it will be very easy to replace it.
I used this method and it worked perfectly. I didn’t even have to undo any hoses. I used a hanger formed to unhook the clip when removing the old sensor. To place the new sensor, I took a small piece of cardboard to wedge it in the socket and it fell to the ground after removing the socket. Saved me so much time! Thanks for the video!
I too did as he said, used a pry bar to gain a little clearance, some double sided tape on new sending unit so it wouldn’t slip off when I put it in, didn’t over-torque and it was all done start to finish in under 2 hours. I watched some TV in garage during the process too so could have shaved easily 1/2 hour off.
Thank you for the video. Was the extension you used before the pivot a wobble extension or just a regular extension? My sending unit is bad on my C5. I'm debating the procedure because I'm installing a ECS Paxton supercharger system and I must change out all of the fuel injectors. Since I must change injectors should I go ahead and remove the intake or still attempt your method? I really need my oil pressure reading and I'm changing the sending unit during the supercharger install one way or the other...Thanks again.
Great Video, Helped me out a bunch. Took me about an hour, Hardest part was getting the plug off, Could probably do it in 15 Mins next time... Thanks again
Kenneth Bernal Can oil leak from the sensor? YES. I have one on my Chevy Suburban that I am changing this weekend. Still reads normal pressure but is definitely leaking. And the one on my daughter's Tahoe has also malfunctioned right after mine. Pegged out on the pressure gauge and started leaking. Maybe just the extreme temperature changes this year or just a coincidence? But both of the TPS (throttle position sensor) sensors have also malfunctioned.
I'm trying to replace mine right now but the retaining clip on the connector faces away from me making it impossible to get a screw driver onto it to pry it away. Any advice or suggestions form others who have faced this problem?
This is happening right now in my other car... My 1999 Buick Park Avenue that still only has 69,000 original miles on it. The only difference is my gauge is digital for the oil pressure, and it has been stuck at 129 psi now for the past few weeks. Everything else in the car works like it was brand new. This freaking thing even looks, smells and drives like it's brand new. It had one non smoking 83 year old owner who kept it garaged, who also kept every single receipt for his on time scheduled maintenance since he took delivery of the car, and gave it all to me along with the original window sticker and the carfax. It's a beautiful Emerald Green Pearl with Taupe leather interior, and the car has every available option from the factory including the H.U.D, Power Moonroof, Heated Memory seats, etc, except for the supercharger in the Ultra model. It's the nicest riding car I've ever owned, and with it's laminated glass, it's also the quietest car I've ever owned. It also helps keep the mileage off my Corvette too, so it's a win win for me :-) Thanks for the video. -Chris
Confirmed that I was able to do it. It is critical to have 1. GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive Short Access Socket 1-1/16" - 3926D 2. Extensions 3. Long needle nose pliers (angled) 4. I used a hanger to pull the tab on sensor. It took me 1.5 hours; confident I could do it in 30min the second time around.
This may fall on deaf ears but i took my c5 to get a filter and oil change while i move and have no way to lift it right now, and now it’s leaking tiny drops that when i go on the freeway it splashes onto the exhaust and smokes afterwards. I figured it could be the OPS but I’m hesitant cause it’s my daily and drops a single drop a day when it sits, just more so when driven
I thread it the new sensor into the hole with a long spring in the end of the sensor it worked great i did the job with only taking the pcv connections out on each end only and the tools in the video
I used the hole saw method, 30 minutes first try, make sure you have deep socket before you start. See video with senior dude in his garage and fellow his method.
Pretty blown away to see in a 7 year time span reading through all the comments of how common these oil pressure sensors go out & how many ppl are switching them out!! Im having to replace 1 on my ls1 i just used a 1 1/16 - 1/2 inch deep socket with a 3" extension & non flexhead wratchet & with alot of sacrifices to my hand getting cut up from the cowl as the damn motor aits so far behind the cawl.. Im able to get the oil pressure sensor off without removing anything from the car/motor. Its a B!T$@ to get off but with patience i promise you can get it off.
My cars leaking oil I took it to a mechanic he said it might be the valley gasket.. but my oil sensor isn't working as well.. would oil leak from the sensor?
The "Old" mans method of removing Fuel Injection...etc...would cost outrageously on labor cost, The Polish speaking man, is way more efficient, And seems to be very knowledgeable, and willing to take on a very prestigious undertaking. He would be best choices for this job.
There's a website called ABS Fixers that can fix that problem but u have to take module off and send it to them and they repair and ship it back to you. I've heard good things about them just haven't pulled mine yet to send it off. Cost approx. 65.00 if im not mistaken
@@buff6pak on the off chance you see this, i had a “corvette mechanic” take my whole module and replace it and still got the codes, did you ever do this? Or fix it in a different way? I’m desperate, we spent so much money for it to come back with the same exact issues
The much easier and seemingly controversy method is to remove the outer cowl piece, neatly hole saw a 1 1/2" hole in the inner cowl peice just above the oil pressure sensor. Replace the sensor and then place a 1 1/2" rubber seal cap in the hole. Once complete, it looks like a factory access port that is found on many types of mechanical equipment. This is especially valuable, since the sensor will go bad again if you keep the car longterm. Whether you use this method or any other, it does make sense to install the sensor relocation kit, although this is also controversial with the purists. That's fine though, the more options, the better. It's funny, you have people that would not be able to sleep at night if they discovered their otherwise pristine C5 had a 1 1/2" unseen, sealed hole in the cowl. The horror!! 😂😂😂
Tip: Tie a piece of thin wire or string around the switch in case you drop it for easy retrieval...thin copper wire is best as it can help guide it in...Thanks for the video....i did it in 45 min...
I need help I have a c5 Corvette I rebuilt the engine and now all of a sudden my transmission won't work but the car turns on I put on the scanner but does not even read the transmission but reads everything else and the guy assume it's the axle and differential
I did not see this video before i did mine, but it was very difficult for me due to the size of my hands, but i did get it done. probably quicker to remove the intake though.
Just tried this, but immediately ran into a problem. When trying to move the PCV hose, there is nowhere to push it because if you push it down or forwards it’s still in the way, and you can’t push it backwards because there is a large wiring harness right behind it. Anyone else run into this problem? May be something with the earlier cars, mines a 2000
Gee Giu don't know if you replaced your oil sending unit yet but I just did mine on a 2009 C6 LS3 and I took off the intake manifold cover and bought a socket to fit the oil sending unit which is a short socket stuffed a piece of paper in between the socket and the oil sending unit so that it would hold the sending unit tight while I threaded it in and it worked like a charm I did have to use the long curved hemostat to pull that plug off and reinstall it but everything else seem to come apart rather easy all I did is take the fuel rail off the intake manifold cover and then I was able to get to the oil sending unit rather easily with that socket and a couple of extensions
Even then it's only rated a 2 hour job taking off the manifold. They say they do it then don't anyway and let it sit there while they work two other jobs and just leave you in limbo.
Just a heads up for anyone doing this. If your car is a 2001 and/or the clip to the plug is facing away towards the passenger side head, doing the repair this way will not be possible. I attempted with the exact tools he used in this video. There was no way it was going to be possible. I'm trying to save others from wasting time.
I have a 2001, and yes my plug was facing the passengers side. All I did was use a long flat head screwdriver that I bought at Wal-Mart approximately 18" long and it was easy. doing it that way. Hope this helps anyone. I've done it this way twice on my vette with no issues takes me about 30 min to replace...
Hey there guys. I appreciate your video. I had the same problem with my mom's C5 and the dealer quoted me $800 to fix it. I watched your movie and decided to give it a shot myself. I followed the same steps you took. I remove that black hose to get more access. I had my mom put her small hand back there and un-clip the connector. I was able to get the socket on the sender no problem and removal was a piece of cake. Now the reinstall, this was a lot of trouble because it was almost impossible to use the extending angled needle nose pliers to start the sender in the hole. What i did was i put some tape inside my 27mm deep socket and wedged the sender into the socket that way it would be medium tight. I feed the deep socket back into place and effortlessly tightened the sender back in its original location. I thought the hard part was over but i was wrong. The re-installation of the harness clip was a royal pain. It important to feel around the sender to find the notch so you know which way the harness clip needs to face. Keep in mind you can't see and this is all by feel. I was able to get the clip on the sender but it wouldn't press on so i used a long extension and pushed the clip with medium force and it went in place. The entire job took about 1.5 hour but it's totally doable and this video really help and saved me a lot of coin considering the part was only $50 dollar from Autozone.
Thanks again for the great video.
Whiskey Matt
Thanks for the instructions. Although I gave it a try and was able to remove the old sensor, I was not able to easily thread the new sensor into the hole. I tried and tried and tried but the threads on the sensor ended up getting stripped. I reluctantly removed the fuel rail and everything else which caused a separate problem with a broken vacuum tube, but I was much more easily able to get the sensor installed properly with the everything off. Not really sure which way is best but wanted to give people a fair warning that even this more simple method may not be easy for everyone. Good luck to those who try!
Crazy I’m doing this job right now and just broke a thin vacuum hose too. It basically snapped as soon as I touched it lol
Ok, so I just did this job, and while I tried every which way to make more room to get my mitts in that tiny space, it just wasn't gonna happen. I highly recommend you get a regular 1-1/2" socket AND an extension socket of the same size. The smaller socket just won't go over the sending unit. The clip on the sending unit can be accessed with a coat hanger curving it like a "U" and you have to simultaneously tug on it while using the extension pliers. Removal after that was a breeze! (Victory!) Getting the new unit in takes a whole lot of patience to catch the threads, but once they're "caught", you can button up the job with relative ease. Take your time and it'll work. Great job Petr!
Thank you for the video and instructions, it helped me great deal. For the install, I could not find the shorter socket, so I used a flex claw pickup tool to first place the new sensor and then held it down with one finger and then slowly rotated the sensor with a long reach stick or screw driver to at least 1 thread. Once that was in place, I put in my socket and tightened it. I did the same with the connector as well, placed it with the flex claw pickup tool and then pressed it down with a long reach screw driver. It was not too difficult. Thank you again for the video.
I finished the sensor relocation on my 2003 C5 today. I did this job about 2 years ago but I didn't install the extender. So, here we are again. (I bought the extender hose with fittings on Amazon for $99). I didn't want to disturb more than necessary and I didn't want to drill any holes. I did not remove anything except the plastic engine cover. Although it was a royal pain in the butt, I was able to disconnect the old sensor and pull it out. For me, the hardest part was threading the extender hose into the engine. I could not get the threads lined up while rotating the hose. I had my son come over and somehow he got it threaded on his first try. 8-)
Now, my oil pressure gage no longer thinks it's a windshield wiper. It was continuously slamming full scale and back to zero. Now it sits rock steady at 42 PSI at cold idle. If (when?) this new sensor fails, it will be very easy to replace it.
just did this the other day. It took longer to put electrical connector back on than to change the sender. Thanks for the video!!
Yes i totally agree the connector was the hardest part.
Thanks for the tips! And the balanced, calm debate over the methods to help us all decide the best course.
I used this method and it worked perfectly. I didn’t even have to undo any hoses. I used a hanger formed to unhook the clip when removing the old sensor. To place the new sensor, I took a small piece of cardboard to wedge it in the socket and it fell to the ground after removing the socket. Saved me so much time! Thanks for the video!
Do you have a picture of how you formed the hanger?
@@AztecWrestlingClub sorry, I do not. I just bent the hanger at the proper angles to get it back there and unhook the clip.
I too did as he said, used a pry bar to gain a little clearance, some double sided tape on new sending unit so it wouldn’t slip off when I put it in, didn’t over-torque and it was all done start to finish in under 2 hours. I watched some TV in garage during the process too so could have shaved easily 1/2 hour off.
You are a genius Peter! Thank you! This saved me so much time! Worked great with the long reach pliers and flathead screwdriver
Where did you find the short socket and who makes it? Any kind of stock number to aid in the search?
Thank you for the video. Was the extension you used before the pivot a wobble extension or just a regular extension? My sending unit is bad on my C5. I'm debating the procedure because I'm installing a ECS Paxton supercharger system and I must change out all of the fuel injectors. Since I must change injectors should I go ahead and remove the intake or still attempt your method? I really need my oil pressure reading and I'm changing the sending unit during the supercharger install one way or the other...Thanks again.
Thank you I have used you're method twice already and it works like a charm.
nice
Great Video, Helped me out a bunch. Took me about an hour, Hardest part was getting the plug off, Could probably do it in 15 Mins next time... Thanks again
Thank you for this instructional video. I was able to execute this repair with your method. You guys rock!!!
we are very happy to hear that....thanks.
What about the filter under the sensor?
Great fun video. Thanks for the tip about the size of the hands. Unfortunately, I will go with removing the intake because of that.
Kenneth Bernal Can oil leak from the sensor? YES. I have one on my Chevy Suburban that I am changing this weekend. Still reads normal pressure but is definitely leaking.
And the one on my daughter's Tahoe has also malfunctioned right after mine. Pegged out on the pressure gauge and started leaking.
Maybe just the extreme temperature changes this year or just a coincidence? But both of the TPS (throttle position sensor) sensors have also malfunctioned.
I'm trying to replace mine right now but the retaining clip on the connector faces away from me making it impossible to get a screw driver onto it to pry it away. Any advice or suggestions form others who have faced this problem?
Am I able to drive my Corvette with plenty of oil with the sensor bad until the sensor comes in the next couple days?
Wow what a challenge but it was done. Video helped out alot, still burning some excess oil off but the sensor is still shiny. Thanks!
I will give it a try. Thanks for the short-cut tip! Love the accent.
This is happening right now in my other car... My 1999 Buick Park Avenue that still only has 69,000 original miles on it. The only difference is my gauge is digital for the oil pressure, and it has been stuck at 129 psi now for the past few weeks. Everything else in the car works like it was brand new. This freaking thing even looks, smells and drives like it's brand new. It had one non smoking 83 year old owner who kept it garaged, who also kept every single receipt for his on time scheduled maintenance since he took delivery of the car, and gave it all to me along with the original window sticker and the carfax. It's a beautiful Emerald Green Pearl with Taupe leather interior, and the car has every available option from the factory including the H.U.D, Power Moonroof, Heated Memory seats, etc, except for the supercharger in the Ultra model. It's the nicest riding car I've ever owned, and with it's laminated glass, it's also the quietest car I've ever owned. It also helps keep the mileage off my Corvette too, so it's a win win for me :-)
Thanks for the video.
-Chris
Confirmed that I was able to do it. It is critical to have
1. GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive Short Access Socket 1-1/16" - 3926D
2. Extensions
3. Long needle nose pliers (angled)
4. I used a hanger to pull the tab on sensor.
It took me 1.5 hours; confident I could do it in 30min the second time around.
Do you have a picture of how you formed the hanger to pull the tab?
Hmm, guess I missed the, putting rhe wire and pvc hose back. How conveniant!
What about coming from underneath on the back side, it looks like their is more room? I don't know, just asking
This may fall on deaf ears but i took my c5 to get a filter and oil change while i move and have no way to lift it right now, and now it’s leaking tiny drops that when i go on the freeway it splashes onto the exhaust and smokes afterwards. I figured it could be the OPS but I’m hesitant cause it’s my daily and drops a single drop a day when it sits, just more so when driven
I thread it the new sensor into the hole with a long spring in the end of the sensor it worked great i did the job with only taking the pcv connections out on each end only and the tools in the video
I DID IT ! SENSOR SOCKET A MUST ! thank you for video
I used the hole saw method, 30 minutes first try, make sure you have deep socket before you start. See video with senior dude in his garage and fellow his method.
Pretty blown away to see in a 7 year time span reading through all the comments of how common these oil pressure sensors go out & how many ppl are switching them out!! Im having to replace 1 on my ls1 i just used a 1 1/16 - 1/2 inch deep socket with a 3" extension & non flexhead wratchet & with alot of sacrifices to my hand getting cut up from the cowl as the damn motor aits so far behind the cawl.. Im able to get the oil pressure sensor off without removing anything from the car/motor. Its a B!T$@ to get off but with patience i promise you can get it off.
My cars leaking oil I took it to a mechanic he said it might be the valley gasket.. but my oil sensor isn't working as well.. would oil leak from the sensor?
+Kenneth Bernal Yes! Mine was leaking outrageously. Unfortunately I took mine to the Chevy dealer and paid $$. Good news is no more leaks.
How do you keep the sandy dirt from falling into the pressurized oil galley?
The "Old" mans method of removing Fuel Injection...etc...would cost outrageously on labor cost, The Polish speaking man, is way more efficient, And seems to be very knowledgeable, and willing to take on a very prestigious undertaking. He would be best choices for this job.
I see I'm not the only one w/ the traction control and antilock brake light on on my C5
Same here... Any input on that?
There's a website called ABS Fixers that can fix that problem but u have to take module off and send it to them and they repair and ship it back to you. I've heard good things about them just haven't pulled mine yet to send it off. Cost approx. 65.00 if im not mistaken
Thanks for the info. I will definitely check that out.
Same here
@@buff6pak on the off chance you see this, i had a “corvette mechanic” take my whole module and replace it and still got the codes, did you ever do this? Or fix it in a different way? I’m desperate, we spent so much money for it to come back with the same exact issues
The much easier and seemingly controversy method is to remove the outer cowl piece, neatly hole saw a 1 1/2" hole in the inner cowl peice just above the oil pressure sensor. Replace the sensor and then place a 1 1/2" rubber seal cap in the hole. Once complete, it looks like a factory access port that is found on many types of mechanical equipment. This is especially valuable, since the sensor will go bad again if you keep the car longterm. Whether you use this method or any other, it does make sense to install the sensor relocation kit, although this is also controversial with the purists. That's fine though, the more options, the better. It's funny, you have people that would not be able to sleep at night if they discovered their otherwise pristine C5 had a 1 1/2" unseen, sealed hole in the cowl. The horror!! 😂😂😂
What is the oil pressure supposed to be at on warm idle
I’ve replaced the oil sending unit ona 2005 C6 usin method similar to this , lemme know if you need tips 👍🏽
sneakdza I just did same method on my ls2 swap c5
I replaced mine and it was broken again within 2 days. Perhaps it's best to install a relocation kit for this motor.
Yep, I think mine lasted a few weeks. Haven't touch the damn thing again.
Tip: Tie a piece of thin wire or string around the switch in case you drop it for easy retrieval...thin copper wire is best as it can help guide it in...Thanks for the video....i did it in 45 min...
you easily beat me..great job !
Agreed. I tried to do it without string. Ended up dropping unit pretty far down into engine bay. Had to crawl under car to search for it.
I need help I have a c5 Corvette I rebuilt the engine and now all of a sudden my transmission won't work but the car turns on I put on the scanner but does not even read the transmission but reads everything else and the guy assume it's the axle and differential
Who is the manufacturer of the silver socket you used? I have looked everywhere and can only find deep sockets.
It came fro Napa store, off the shelf, don't know the maker...
looks like "Mike" from "Breaking Bad"
I did not see this video before i did mine, but it was very difficult for me due to the size of my hands, but i did get it done. probably quicker to remove the intake though.
This was a great video! Thank you.
can you please tell me were I can get the short socket that you used to take off this oil switch and size thanks
outttkast i got mine in pep boys but you can get it in any autoparts store
Awesome job!
I will be attempting this. Wish me luck bois.
Great information, thanks...
mambaracing you are welcome….
What is the exact socket thank you
great video thanks so much
stupid question but can the sending unit be leaking even if the sensor still gives off correct readings?
yes, it can be leaking….
Thanks I"ll have to check it out soon
Thank you!
Wait till the cam angle sensor Oring starts leaking, your gunna have to remove the manifold for that one.
Thank you for posting this video
Reminds me an appendectomy operation that I saw on the Discovery channel ?!
Where are you located
thanks for this video i have this problem with my c5 now i know how to do it by myself thanks
you are welcome.
i did it already it was easy but carefully
Thank you very much for this tuto
you are welcome .
My C5 2003 corvette won’t let me put any fuel in the tank and could anybody tell me what the problem may be?
Awesome video!
Clank clank clank, then yank yank. Woolah 👍
What size tools/sockets?
Just tried this, but immediately ran into a problem. When trying to move the PCV hose, there is nowhere to push it because if you push it down or forwards it’s still in the way, and you can’t push it backwards because there is a large wiring harness right behind it. Anyone else run into this problem? May be something with the earlier cars, mines a 2000
dobra robota:)
diky.
What about the OSU of C6, is it in the same place?
Blackbird have you checked in the forum?
Way to go!!!!!
what's the worst that can happen if you don't have this replaced on a c5
+Nathan Lopez In my case, it started to leak around it like mad.
I'm having my engine completely rebuilt so because the engines out I'm going to have all the sensors and everything replaced the same time
thank you will try it myself.
good luck .
Good job
NAPA ECH OP6196 . Thanks .
27mm or 1 and 1/16"
Guy sounds like Janosz from Ghost Busters 2 lol
Great job
Gee Giu don't know if you replaced your oil sending unit yet but I just did mine on a 2009 C6 LS3 and I took off the intake manifold cover and bought a socket to fit the oil sending unit which is a short socket stuffed a piece of paper in between the socket and the oil sending unit so that it would hold the sending unit tight while I threaded it in and it worked like a charm I did have to use the long curved hemostat to pull that plug off and reinstall it but everything else seem to come apart rather easy all I did is take the fuel rail off the intake manifold cover and then I was able to get to the oil sending unit rather easily with that socket and a couple of extensions
well if anybody in Miami fl have this problem just get contact with me
good boy!!!!
mechanic just tried to get me on 430 parts and labor for this. wanted to take manifold off I guess... No thanks.
Even then it's only rated a 2 hour job taking off the manifold. They say they do it then don't anyway and let it sit there while they work two other jobs and just leave you in limbo.
I got the same problem
gonna try this hope it works haha
good luck .
Mike L I got same problem in my c5
I did it thanks very much exactly u say
Corn Hulio!
Notice he didn't give install portion. Lol! Read between the lines ppl.
need mine done please:(
OHH AND I DID NOT HAVE TO TAKE OFF BRAKE VACUM HOSE
I'm cutting and replacing for $40
Just a heads up for anyone doing this. If your car is a 2001 and/or the clip to the plug is facing away towards the passenger side head, doing the repair this way will not be possible. I attempted with the exact tools he used in this video. There was no way it was going to be possible. I'm trying to save others from wasting time.
I have a 2001, and yes my plug was facing the passengers side. All I did was use a long flat head screwdriver that I bought at Wal-Mart approximately 18" long and it was easy. doing it that way. Hope this helps anyone. I've done it this way twice on my vette with no issues takes me about 30 min to replace...
No true. my moms car is an 01 and i was able to do it.
auto gynecology 101.........
First man's voice is very robot like. Second man's voice is gay robot like. And he kisses the socket. Thanks for the info.