PLEASE NOTE: This procedure is for the Jacobs Super Chucks only. Many other chucks need the jaws closed or open half way and a tube over the jaws to press on (do not press on the jaws). Thanks to several viewers for pointing this out!
I really like your videos primarily for two reasons. 1) you are not afraid to admit when you make a mistake. And 2) I learn a lot from you, especially from potentental errors. THANKS WINKY!!
Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
That chuck really needed cleaning. Well done. I have taken apart regular Jacobs chucks for cleaning, but not a Superchuck. Glad you did not loose the ball bearing. The Jacobs site has a page showing the sequence of inserting jaws. It is a PDF in the Tech&Support page of the site. This page also shows the various taper details and thread mount details. Dave.
Mark, That was a very good instructional clip, no bs and right to the point. This is the correct way to strip and clean the "Super-Chuck" type, however with other Jacobs type chucks, doing it this way presses back the sleeve against the machined teeth and breaks them, the method to do those is to partially open the jaws, put a tube over them that presses against the chuck body as it clears the jaws, and press against it that way. Keep up the great work. Don
Mark those disposable/reuseable aluminum kitchen pans are great for cleaning parts. I save them when someone bakes something for me. I also use kitchen foil for masking and plugging holes to keep mud daubers out of holes. JT's Barn and grill used the foil when I mentioned it to him to mask things like hydraulic hoses on a tractor he painted. The sky is the limit when it comes to creativity in the shop. Thanks for bringing us along. We never get too old to learn and that includes Me.
Wow that was extraordinarily gunked up inside wasn't it?! Holy crap. Thanks for the vid to add to the collective knowledge on how to get one of these apart, clean/service them and then get them back together properly.
Yeah is was bad. Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
You bet. Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
Great Video. The method of opening the chuck jaws to press directly on the chuck body might work on a superchuck, but it does not on some of the other Jacobs chucks. What happens is that it the sleeve presses the back teeth and breaks them. With the other chucks it is better to partly open the jaws and put a tube over them that presses the chuck body while clearing the jaws. Just thought I'd mention t because I learned the hard way and this is a do's and don'ts video. Thanks Winky.
I've only rebuilt one that was nit a ball bearing chuck but it was made the same as mine. Maybe it would be a good idea to open them until the jaw tips are just inside but not all the way open. I can see how it might be possible that the load could be on the teeth if opened 100%. Still, its hard to imagine it breaking teeth.
Good info danceswithaardvarks I did the same thing with one of mine years back. Broke the top 2 teeth. RUclips has done wonders for stuff like this over the years. Its become my go to when tackling things for the first time these days.
@@duanedickey7043 I now understand what you were saying previously. The sleeve rubs the back end of the jaws on some chucks. As for the super chuck half way is about where the jaw tips are just under the body. I should have done research on other chucks. I did change the title and description however.
Thanks, Wink, I have 2 of them that need that done, they came with my lathe when I bought it and are very sticky, so I got another one on eBay and never got around to throwing them out. You saved me lots of money since they are 5/8" and 3/4" and I just bought the 1/2" on eBay in 2017.
Way to go Winky. I have one chuck like that that I have had since the early 1970's. I use it on both the drill press and the lathe. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks for making this Video Winky. I actually learned a lot that I didn’t know about Drill Chucks. I wasn’t sure how you even get them apart. I have a Couple of nice Chucks that need cleaned up. I’m ready to Tackle them now.👍👍❤️
You're welcome! Keep in mind some chucks are made different. The jaws need to be mostly closed on some. You have to put a pipe over the jaws so that when you are pressing on it the force it not on the jaws.
The rebuild kits for those newer style chucks are extremely expensive. Over $300. Reusing the old parts, even broken but functional, is the smart play, if you ask me.
Keep in mind this was for the super chuck, the jaws in other types have to be almost closed. You put a pipe over the jaws when pressing the chuck apart.
I have to warn people about buying used chucks on eBay, or anywhere else for that matter after. About 20 years ago I bought a 3/4” SuperChuck. The tips of the jaws didn’t meet when tightly closed. I bought a repair kit from McMastercarr. Those are expensive. After doing the work, I found that while a bit better, the jaws still didn’t close properly. So I took it apart again and did some measurements. It turned out that the chuck body was slightly deformed. Since they sell everything but the chuck body, there was no way to completely fix it. I ended up grinding the jaws out slightly and that took much of the problem with it. But it’s not really what it should be. Usable, but not as good as it should be. On the other hand, about two years ago I bought a 5/8” version for a nutty $69. I figured something was seriously wrong, but it was so cheap I couldn’t resist. The problem was that the key didn’t fit properly. I found that someone either tried to take it apart and couldn’t, or put it back together and didn’t get it completely pressed. After cleaning it, I pressed it back and it’s perfect. So you never know. I have a ,out of chucks. A couple of new SuperChucks, a couple used, and others. All interesting. By the way, if someone buys a used chuck that isn’t a Jacobs, be warned. They don’t come apart the same way. I’m speaking about chucks that look like a jacobs. They’re built differently. You can usually tell before you read the name. Jacobs chucks have the cuts on the housing running in the same direction as the chuck, and the others have rings in the housing.
Yeah, I probably need to redo the video and make people away of the differences. New Super chucks are very high priced. I have two of them and bought this last one on ebay and the other came on a very old drill press. Fortunately both are in very good condition. I only paid $40 for the last one so i did well but I do understand what you are saying.
Hi Mark, man that was some nasty gunk. I got a few of these that probably need the same treatment. Yeah I've only seen the loose bearings on other videos...interesting Thanks for sharing ! 👍👍
Yeah, super nasty! I found out after posting some chucks are made different. Some require that the jaws be extended. You have to put a pipe over the jaws before pressing it apart.
Seems you are a self-taught guy, only such people are capable of doing different things like you do. Regards and best wishes. Your videos are very interesting and helpful.
Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
Thanks! Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
Thanks, Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
Sometimes there is a screw inside the chuck and some have a ring with holes in it that can be turned to push the chuck off. Most are just a force fit... like dave said, wedges
You are so welcome. Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
Thank you for the interesting video. I think it was Bob Vaughan over on the old woodworking machinery site that explained about the wear on the inside of the jaws. I don't think you showed it but the "gripping strip" along each jaw can get worn to the point that each one is no longer uniform it it's shape, width, and length. thus no longer gripping uniformly along the part. It would have been interesting to see how worn your's were. keep up the good work.
Slight wear but not super bad. I cleaned up the one that came with my 1917 drill press and it was worn bad. Still amazing after over 100 years however.
You're welcome. I need to do a follow up, this is specific to the Super Chuck. Some chucks need to be almost closed before pressing them apart. You have to put a pipe over the jaws to ovoid pressing on them.
There's no numbers on the body. The gullet of the jaw is the indicator. Either way, there's only one way they index, so its a matter of trial and error. This is the "new" style, which is significantly cheaper than the older models. The sleeve can be overpressed during reassembly, resulting in improper key engagement, but is easily remedied by re-aligning the sleeve. I like petroleum jelly for a re-lube, as it's nice and light, and responds well to WD-40 if the chuck gets stiff.
You have my interest, the body and key engagement is very interesting. It is something I noticed, it isn't bad but it isn't as good as it could be. Thanks!
Jacobs' Service & Repair PDF states: Do NOT assemble on an arbor press as excessive pressure will expand the chuck body and distort the chuck jaw holes. I think this applies when installing an arbor but since your arbor was already installed you may be OK.
You were pressing on the sleeve to get it apart, perhaps you should have pressed on the sleeve at the other end to reassemble and not press on the arbor. I think Jacobs is saying when installing a tapered end arbor to give it a good wrack with something like a dead blow hammer or piece of wood. But what do I know, I probably would have done the same as you.
@@petemclinc I was pressing on the sleeve. It was sitting on the pipe. The other end was pressing on the taper. Before I had an arbor press I did it with a hammer with the chuck body in my hand. It took a ring of skin out of my hand where it slipped. The arbor press is very controlled and didn't require much force at all.
i have old chucks on drill presses from the 1940's, both could use this i'm sure. they are not jacobs chucks, one is marked "ball bearing supreme" and it was the chuck supplied by callander foundry aka beaver in canada
Keep this in mind (from another comment): This is the correct way to strip and clean the "Super-Chuck" type, however with other Jacobs type chucks, doing it this way presses back the sleeve against the machined teeth and breaks them, the method to do those is to partially open the jaws, put a tube over them that presses against the chuck body as it clears the jaws, and press against it that way. Keep up the great work
It’s not a good idea to use grease in drill or lathe chucks, it just act like a magnet for dirt and metal chips…a light oil like 3 in one works absolutely fine and makes future maintenance much easier.. It’s also a good idea to drill a 6mm hole through the the chuck so a punch can be used to remove the arbor if necessary.
Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
10+ years ago I bought a new ball bearing chuck. Within 6 months the jaws were junk after a few drills spun. Never in all my years have I had a Jacob's chuck do that. I was going to by a kit and found Jacob's is all Chinese. Soft metal comes with the chuck at no charge. -- Repair kits are about $75.00 from the cost of a new chuck. Any better parts out there. It's setting on the shelf cause it won't hold a bitt.
Interesting. I have 3 Jacobs Super Chucks. One is a 14 and the other two are 14N. One (the 14) came on my 1917 drill press and the chuck itself has a 1916 date on it. For it's age it in fair shape bit the jaws are worn and it has runout. The second came on a Cannedy Otto drill press from about 1910 but I'm certain it was not original. It was in great shape and I am still using it and have been for about 5 years. This was actually my first super Chuck and I notice right off that it gripped much better than the standard Jacobs chucks. The third is I just got on ebay and it was the one in the video. Maybe its junk, time will tell. Certainly hard jaws are very important
Interesting... what can I say, I'm a rule breaker. But seriously, the chuck survived incredible dirt and abuse. I'm fairly certain it will do well with 20 wt oil and it allows for large changes in drill sizes in seconds because you can spin the chuck.
@@WinkysWorkshopthat would be fine if you didn't just show 5400 people and counting how to not rebuild a couple hundred dollar piece of equipment in accordance with the manufacturers instruction.
@@EitriBrokkrI do see your point and I'm not beyond making errors however, I did say, you could put grease in the chuck but that I liked oil. Perhaps I should have reworded my statement and said, Jacobs recommend grease but I prefer oil. I've made much worse errors and I'm sure I will again. In fact, in the case of oil vs. grease, I see this as good advice. The "dos and don'ts" probably implied superior knowledge or that I'm an authority which was probably an error on my part. I worded the title this way because of my silly oversight on the pipe size and applying heat. I prefer not to imply superior knowledge with the things I do. I'd rather present myself as, "this is my understanding" or "this is how I do it" and leave the door open for others to add their knowledge and experience.
I did a review on one and donated it to Knox Makers. You're probably right, handy to have. Gloves are a good idea. I usually have some but they were at the brother in laws house.
I think they did that to make them easier to rebuild. Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
PLEASE NOTE: This procedure is for the Jacobs Super Chucks only. Many other chucks need the jaws closed or open half way and a tube over the jaws to press on (do not press on the jaws). Thanks to several viewers for pointing this out!
I really like your videos primarily for two reasons. 1) you are not afraid to admit when you make a mistake. And 2) I learn a lot from you, especially from potentental errors. THANKS WINKY!!
Thanks for that!
Never taken one apart. I have a chuck that is bad. Now I will practice on it. Thanks for the video. It all helps.
Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
@@WinkysWorkshop might want to pin this comment.
@@dans_Learning_Curve I can't pin my own comment but I did put this in the description. I think I need to redo the video and repost.
@@WinkysWorkshop should be able to make a new comment and pin that one.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Done - thanks
That chuck really needed cleaning. Well done.
I have taken apart regular Jacobs chucks for cleaning, but not a Superchuck. Glad you did not loose the ball bearing.
The Jacobs site has a page showing the sequence of inserting jaws. It is a PDF in the Tech&Support page of the site. This page also shows the various taper details and thread mount details.
Dave.
Yes, incredibly dirty inside. I'll have to look at the web site and see if my procedure is the same.
Nice little bit of needed maintenance makes for nice relaxing afternoon job. enjoyed, cheers Mark!
Glad you enjoyed it
I always wondered how they came apart. Now I know. Thank you.
FYI From what I understand other some chuck need to have the jaws mostly closed. You have to put a sleeve or pipe over the jaws to press on.
@@WinkysWorkshop You are a very humble man. Awesome channel.
Always worth watching you. Thank you. Les in UK 🇬🇧
Thanks for watching!
Winky - Thanks , I learned a few things . -- Jim
Your welcome
im so glad you showed your error honesty is the best quality and it teaches anybody else to do job correctly.
No shame here... it was a silly error but everyone makes them.
Mark,
That was a very good instructional clip, no bs and right to the point. This is the correct way to strip and clean the "Super-Chuck" type, however with other Jacobs type chucks, doing it this way presses back the sleeve against the machined teeth and breaks them, the method to do those is to partially open the jaws, put a tube over them that presses against the chuck body as it clears the jaws, and press against it that way. Keep up the great work.
Don
You are the second person to say this, I wish I had known this. Thanks.
You are welcome Mark. @@WinkysWorkshop
Mark those disposable/reuseable aluminum kitchen pans are great for cleaning parts. I save them when someone bakes something for me. I also use kitchen foil for masking and plugging holes to keep mud daubers out of holes. JT's Barn and grill used the foil when I mentioned it to him to mask things like hydraulic hoses on a tractor he painted. The sky is the limit when it comes to creativity in the shop. Thanks for bringing us along. We never get too old to learn and that includes Me.
Yeah, I save them but i have a bunch this size. My bro in-law works for a company that puts bread rolls in them.
Lucky you. I priced a deeper one at the grocery store and they wanted $8 for one! lol @WinkysWorkshop
@@terrycannon570That's crazy
I’ve found it helpful when disassembling a chuck to number the jaws so that they go back in the right position.
That would work well.
It’s very satisfying to clean a Chuck that dirty
Yeah.... glad i did it. I had no idea it was that bad inside.
There were a lot of memories inside that old chuck!
I have the older version that came on my 1917 drill press. It took it apart a few weeks ago. It was worn but still not bad for over 100 years.
Wow that was extraordinarily gunked up inside wasn't it?! Holy crap. Thanks for the vid to add to the collective knowledge on how to get one of these apart, clean/service them and then get them back together properly.
Yeah is was bad. Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
Keeping your tools in good working order. Excellent Winky. Thanks for the lesson. Don
You bet. Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
Great Video. The method of opening the chuck jaws to press directly on the chuck body might work on a superchuck, but it does not on some of the other Jacobs chucks. What happens is that it the sleeve presses the back teeth and breaks them. With the other chucks it is better to partly open the jaws and put a tube over them that presses the chuck body while clearing the jaws. Just thought I'd mention t because I learned the hard way and this is a do's and don'ts video. Thanks Winky.
I've only rebuilt one that was nit a ball bearing chuck but it was made the same as mine. Maybe it would be a good idea to open them until the jaw tips are just inside but not all the way open. I can see how it might be possible that the load could be on the teeth if opened 100%. Still, its hard to imagine it breaking teeth.
@@WinkysWorkshop Jacobs says to open half way.
Good info danceswithaardvarks I did the same thing with one of mine years back. Broke the top 2 teeth. RUclips has done wonders for stuff like this over the years. Its become my go to when tackling things for the first time these days.
Yes me too. I always check with youtube first. There is no bad advice filter unfortunately.
@@duanedickey7043 I now understand what you were saying previously. The sleeve rubs the back end of the jaws on some chucks. As for the super chuck half way is about where the jaw tips are just under the body. I should have done research on other chucks. I did change the title and description however.
Thanks, Wink, I have 2 of them that need that done, they came with my lathe when I bought it and are very sticky, so I got another one on eBay and never got around to throwing them out. You saved me lots of money since they are 5/8" and 3/4" and I just bought the 1/2" on eBay in 2017.
Cool! FYI From what I understand other some chuck need to have the jaws mostly closed. You have to put a sleeve or pipe over the jaws to press on.
Way to go Winky. I have one chuck like that that I have had since the early 1970's. I use it on both the drill press and the lathe. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Cool. Thanks
Me too!
Thanks for making this Video Winky. I actually learned a lot that I didn’t know about Drill Chucks. I wasn’t sure how you even get them apart. I have a Couple of nice Chucks that need cleaned up. I’m ready to Tackle them now.👍👍❤️
You're welcome! Keep in mind some chucks are made different. The jaws need to be mostly closed on some. You have to put a pipe over the jaws so that when you are pressing on it the force it not on the jaws.
The rebuild kits for those newer style chucks are extremely expensive. Over $300. Reusing the old parts, even broken but functional, is the smart play, if you ask me.
They are very high and but still, you and buy the new for 280. Amazon has the kits for about $100... still seems high tho.
Very helpful thank you, I just got a couple of keyless chucks so now I know what to do with the keyed ones.
Keep in mind this was for the super chuck, the jaws in other types have to be almost closed. You put a pipe over the jaws when pressing the chuck apart.
I have to warn people about buying used chucks on eBay, or anywhere else for that matter after. About 20 years ago I bought a 3/4” SuperChuck. The tips of the jaws didn’t meet when tightly closed. I bought a repair kit from McMastercarr. Those are expensive. After doing the work, I found that while a bit better, the jaws still didn’t close properly. So I took it apart again and did some measurements. It turned out that the chuck body was slightly deformed. Since they sell everything but the chuck body, there was no way to completely fix it. I ended up grinding the jaws out slightly and that took much of the problem with it. But it’s not really what it should be. Usable, but not as good as it should be. On the other hand, about two years ago I bought a 5/8” version for a nutty $69. I figured something was seriously wrong, but it was so cheap I couldn’t resist. The problem was that the key didn’t fit properly. I found that someone either tried to take it apart and couldn’t, or put it back together and didn’t get it completely pressed. After cleaning it, I pressed it back and it’s perfect. So you never know. I have a ,out of chucks. A couple of new SuperChucks, a couple used, and others. All interesting. By the way, if someone buys a used chuck that isn’t a Jacobs, be warned. They don’t come apart the same way. I’m speaking about chucks that look like a jacobs. They’re built differently. You can usually tell before you read the name. Jacobs chucks have the cuts on the housing running in the same direction as the chuck, and the others have rings in the housing.
Yeah, I probably need to redo the video and make people away of the differences. New Super chucks are very high priced. I have two of them and bought this last one on ebay and the other came on a very old drill press. Fortunately both are in very good condition. I only paid $40 for the last one so i did well but I do understand what you are saying.
Hello Winky, Thumbs up on that service, cheers from me... 😷👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks
Hi Mark, man that was some nasty gunk. I got a few of these that probably need the same treatment.
Yeah I've only seen the loose bearings on other videos...interesting
Thanks for sharing ! 👍👍
Yeah, super nasty! I found out after posting some chucks are made different. Some require that the jaws be extended. You have to put a pipe over the jaws before pressing it apart.
I am pretty sure you can do the entire job on your lathe. adjust the jaws to the right size and push it apart with the tailstock assy.
thats a good idea!
Nice save.
That's an expensive chuck new.
I bet it works great.
Yes is works great.... man that thing was dirty!
Seems you are a self-taught guy, only such people are capable of doing different things like you do. Regards and best wishes.
Your videos are very interesting and helpful.
Thank you very much! Yes 100% self taught
Спасибо мастер,с вами интересно,с вами Воронеж,РФ.
Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
Awesome video, thanks for sharing that info. 🫵🏼💯🆒
Thanks! Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
i have 1 or two old jacobs that need this done i knew they pressed thank you for this video but i didnt know how
Cool, hopefully you can get kits. I have an old one from about 1920. It looks the same but takes a different kit.
Quite amazing,Mark.Not really looking forward.Maybe yes.Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome video, I've never seen a chuck apart like that. Now, if you could explain how I'm supposed to get the chuck out of my craftsman drill press.
Thanks, Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
Hi, wedges should remove your chuck no problem
Sometimes there is a screw inside the chuck and some have a ring with holes in it that can be turned to push the chuck off. Most are just a force fit... like dave said, wedges
Thanks for sharing this Winky.
You are so welcome. Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
Good work!
Now to test it for concentricity...
I'm sure it's not perfect. The jaws have a little wear.
Thank you for the interesting video. I think it was Bob Vaughan over on the old woodworking machinery site that explained about the wear on the inside of the jaws. I don't think you showed it but the "gripping strip" along each jaw can get worn to the point that each one is no longer uniform it it's shape, width, and length. thus no longer gripping uniformly along the part. It would have been interesting to see how worn your's were. keep up the good work.
Slight wear but not super bad. I cleaned up the one that came with my 1917 drill press and it was worn bad. Still amazing after over 100 years however.
If you run into that situation again, down pressure on ram of arbor press and hit top of ram with a heavy lead hammer
Yeah, that works well but takes three hands. :o)
Thank you for showing us!
You're welcome. I need to do a follow up, this is specific to the Super Chuck. Some chucks need to be almost closed before pressing them apart. You have to put a pipe over the jaws to ovoid pressing on them.
Thanks for sharing enjoyed
Thank you too
There's no numbers on the body. The gullet of the jaw is the indicator. Either way, there's only one way they index, so its a matter of trial and error. This is the "new" style, which is significantly cheaper than the older models. The sleeve can be overpressed during reassembly, resulting in improper key engagement, but is easily remedied by re-aligning the sleeve. I like petroleum jelly for a re-lube, as it's nice and light, and responds well to WD-40 if the chuck gets stiff.
You have my interest, the body and key engagement is very interesting. It is something I noticed, it isn't bad but it isn't as good as it could be. Thanks!
You Sir, are a wizard… 👍🏻
Thank you kindly!
Nice information 👍
Are keyless chucks rebuildable?
I think so but I've never tried.
Dear Winky, was that Mineral spirits?
BTW. Thanks for the idea on the Aluminum pans, thats a great and inexpensive idea.
Yes. Mineral spirits and then Spray Power cleaner. It's a great cleaner especially if you heat it up.
Jacobs' Service & Repair PDF states: Do NOT assemble on an arbor press as excessive pressure
will expand the chuck body and distort the chuck jaw holes. I think this applies when installing an
arbor but since your arbor was already installed you may be OK.
Interesting... I didn't use much pressure but I'm not sure I could have done it without the arbor press. I wonder how you are supposed to do it?
You were pressing on the sleeve to get it apart, perhaps you should have pressed
on the sleeve at the other end to reassemble and not press on the arbor.
I think Jacobs is saying when installing a tapered end arbor to give it a good wrack with something like a dead blow hammer or piece of wood. But what do I know, I probably would have done the same as you.
@@petemclinc I was pressing on the sleeve. It was sitting on the pipe. The other end was pressing on the taper. Before I had an arbor press I did it with a hammer with the chuck body in my hand. It took a ring of skin out of my hand where it slipped. The arbor press is very controlled and didn't require much force at all.
Where do you get repair kits for Jacobs chucks? I have a big one with a broken jaw. I could put it to use if I had it repaired.
They are high priced. Ebay seems to have the best deals
Sometimes drill bit shanks get galled, and I wonder if the chuck jaws get galled too.
Worn and uneven for sure. These seemed to be in good shape but I have seen them very bad
Absolutely they can get galled,
Couldn't tell by the outside it was that dirty/rusty inside!!
Did you just get this chuck? 🤔
Bought it on ebay. Yeah it was terrible!
i have old chucks on drill presses from the 1940's, both could use this i'm sure. they are not jacobs chucks, one is marked "ball bearing supreme" and it was the chuck supplied by callander foundry aka beaver in canada
Keep this in mind (from another comment): This is the correct way to strip and clean the "Super-Chuck" type, however with other Jacobs type chucks, doing it this way presses back the sleeve against the machined teeth and breaks them, the method to do those is to partially open the jaws, put a tube over them that presses against the chuck body as it clears the jaws, and press against it that way. Keep up the great work
I would have thought that Mr. Winky would have had at least a dial caliper to measure the possible dia.
Haha... I should have
It’s not a good idea to use grease in drill or lathe chucks, it just act like a magnet for dirt and metal chips…a light oil like 3 in one works absolutely fine and makes future maintenance much easier..
It’s also a good idea to drill a 6mm hole through the the chuck so a punch can be used to remove the arbor if necessary.
Good suggestion, I used light oil and I have drilled the hole in the past, this one had one.
BUENO BUENO ALGO DE MANTENIMIENTO
Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
10+ years ago I bought a new ball bearing chuck. Within 6 months the jaws were junk after a few drills spun. Never in all my years have I had a Jacob's chuck do that. I was going to by a kit and found Jacob's is all Chinese. Soft metal comes with the chuck at no charge. -- Repair kits are about $75.00 from the cost of a new chuck.
Any better parts out there. It's setting on the shelf cause it won't hold a bitt.
Interesting. I have 3 Jacobs Super Chucks. One is a 14 and the other two are 14N. One (the 14) came on my 1917 drill press and the chuck itself has a 1916 date on it. For it's age it in fair shape bit the jaws are worn and it has runout. The second came on a Cannedy Otto drill press from about 1910 but I'm certain it was not original. It was in great shape and I am still using it and have been for about 5 years. This was actually my first super Chuck and I notice right off that it gripped much better than the standard Jacobs chucks. The third is I just got on ebay and it was the one in the video. Maybe its junk, time will tell. Certainly hard jaws are very important
Jacobs instructs you to grease them upon reassembly...but hey what do they know 🤷♂️
Interesting... what can I say, I'm a rule breaker. But seriously, the chuck survived incredible dirt and abuse. I'm fairly certain it will do well with 20 wt oil and it allows for large changes in drill sizes in seconds because you can spin the chuck.
@@WinkysWorkshopthat would be fine if you didn't just show 5400 people and counting how to not rebuild a couple hundred dollar piece of equipment in accordance with the manufacturers instruction.
@@EitriBrokkrI do see your point and I'm not beyond making errors however, I did say, you could put grease in the chuck but that I liked oil. Perhaps I should have reworded my statement and said, Jacobs recommend grease but I prefer oil. I've made much worse errors and I'm sure I will again. In fact, in the case of oil vs. grease, I see this as good advice. The "dos and don'ts" probably implied superior knowledge or that I'm an authority which was probably an error on my part. I worded the title this way because of my silly oversight on the pipe size and applying heat. I prefer not to imply superior knowledge with the things I do. I'd rather present myself as, "this is my understanding" or "this is how I do it" and leave the door open for others to add their knowledge and experience.
Get yourself a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and wear some Nitrile gloves. You'll use that cleaner more than you think.
I did a review on one and donated it to Knox Makers. You're probably right, handy to have. Gloves are a good idea. I usually have some but they were at the brother in laws house.
Plastic parts? Guessing newer model chuck made in China? Jacobs used to be a good chuck but they sold out. Disgraceful.
I think they did that to make them easier to rebuild. Please note: This procedure is only good for the super chucks. Other chucks require that the jaws be in the closed position and you put a scrap of pipe over them before pressing them apart. I should have put this in the video but I've only rebuilt the Super Chuck.
@@WinkysWorkshop I'm pretty sure it's so they're cheaper to produce. Ease of rebuilding means nothing to the shareholder.
@@desertdweller9548 sometimes pride in workmanship is the motive but I agree, its usually money.
@@WinkysWorkshopYup, but with big companies it is always money.😞
Yep!