Super impressed by just how free the drivetrain is on these newer buggies and Truggies. My old Rc8 with spiral cut ring gears and what not isn't nearly as free spinning as the new stuff. Even with brand new bearings ! Nice work Adam!!
@@bigdaddyd82vapes92 I have. I Have a EB48.4 that I got new and a NB48.4 used that I had to put new ring and pinions in and my RC8 is as free as those are. IDK maybe it's the grease I'm using. Could be the bearings too. I always use metal shield bearing and clean n oil them. I'm not saying your wrong. Im just saying my experience. My RC8 is as free as my Teknos. It's an old car but it still haul you know what.
@@daveshank1921 I loved my old Rc8. It was OLD and tired tho. Could have picked up a warp somewhere. I always used the AE rubber sealed bearings and cleaned out the grease and replaced it with bearing oil and I would remove the inside shield from the bearings. All stripped down and disconnected from the motor. If I spin the drivetrain it would stop way before the new at the time RC8.2
Nice Video! I set my mesh the same way, I like to hold the spur and pinion and create the little "Tick" your talking about so its not too tight, but still good.
Great info as always. Nice thing about your advice, its selfless and capable. Love your black ring(tungsten?)and I have been a G-shock fan since I was a kid. Love Indiglo.
I used to use thread locker on the engine bolts until I was told by a fellow racer that the loctite will loose it's holding properties at the high temperatures that the engine produces, also with the alloy engine mounts being a softer metal they will act as a spring holding the steel bolts so they can't vibrate loose. Ever since then I have never used threadlocker on the engine bolts, just snuggin them tightly down has never let me down so far, have you had engines moving without Adam? Many thanks for your awesomeness in these videos and what you do for our sport/hobby
that is true to an extent, Heat is the way to loosen loctite; however, it still leaves material behind and still does work. Also there is High temp Loctite you can use, but I don't recommend that because it is rated as permanent and you may not get the screws back out.
@@therccollaborative9524 thanks for your reply, just watched your videos, great content sir, looking forward to seeing more from you, keep up the fantastic work sir
Hello Adam, that is the mesh(backlash) I use. One thing that I don't do is the grease on open gears, great way to pick-up dirt. I have raced rc a long time, but my background is auto tech. Straight cut gears are always noisy. What my question to you is how do you get your drive train so free? Awesome job with all you have accomplished and for the future. God Bless Ya Dave.
I use the Mugen NMB bearings. The bearings are really smooth and free. They seems to get better over time. I spray out the bearings with brake cleaner and then use Tri-Flow or a thin synthetic motor oil. I then use the Protek white grease on the ring and pinion gears. I plan to do a video on this in the future.
your the mesh master thanks ad you are the zen of nitro hands down I tell my nitro gear heads that your my professor, keep them vids coming! mucho beuno!
I have always used the paper trick, if the piece comes out like an accordion, mesh is good. If it tears, too tight. No accordion, too loose. Your method is much more precise. Also another trick is to never remove the bottom engine mount once set and use the top screws to remove the engine, that will set the mesh for good.
Do you ever have an issue getting grease on the clutch shoes since you have a vented clutch bell? How do you avoid that? Any time I've tried putting any grease on the spur/bell it just seems to fling off and get everywhere.
@@therccollaborative9524 My personal experience is you cannot put little enough. I've tried Lucas White Lithium Grease, Mobile 1 Red grease (this is what I use on the ring and pinion for the front and rear), Black Grease, and Protek Blue. Granted with such a little amount there isn't much to fling, but I guarantee some of that will fling off. I'm not so much worried about the mess, as much as getting grease between the clutch bell and clutch shoes and making the clutch slip / be inconsistent. I can see it being a non-issue if he had a closed clutch bell.
Hey Adam, I have a question about bearings Would you recommend rubber sealed or the hybrid version of the bearings with one rubber shield and one rubber shield, I want to make my drive train super smooth like yours
I will say I noticed you didn’t use the washers on the underneath of the buggy to hold the engine mounts? I’ve noticed with using them it seems to be able to move around a lot more. With no washers it seems like when you tighten it, it wil automatically go to a certain spot. The washers seem to allow he screw to move around more. Hope this makes sense?
Helpful as always , I use a piece of paper to get the mesh close , but now I am gonna try this one , and I use a dry lube on my bell ( is that ok?) it coats it nicely , thanks for the help
How are you doing? Does Mugen make an engine mount that can be adjusted because on my truggy it has that one piece engine mount and I can't slide the engine back and it's too close to the spur gear and I'm running the reds racing clutch. What can I do?
Mugen doesn't sell an adjustable engine mount, but I know in the past Maifield and Ogden did you a Reds clutch in the Mugen with the Mugen one piece mount. The guys from LCRC Raceway make an engine mount to move the engine back 1 or 2 mm which should work.
Hi adam, im having trouble with my novarossi engine. It seems like my lsn is rich but its acting good and optimal when i give it power. But when i let it idle after a couple sec the idle drop down and sometimes the engine dies from loading up. My lsn is already .6-.7mm in from flush and i dont feel right leaning them even more even tho my idle keeps dropping.
@@AdamDrake got it. One more thing when the engine is cold it can idle right and sound right, after it get up to temperature the idle sound like fourstroking and is going to die from loading up. Does this mean i got low compression? But i can restart the car easily when hot
It sounds like the LSN is rich if it's blubbering. Try leaning the LSN and adjusting the idea if need to have it drop down to idle and be more stable. If you can take a short video and send it to me it would be helpful. adrake@mugenracing.com
Adam!!!! grease on a spir and clutch gear!!!! Um sorry dirt comes into play as soon as you put the car down in the dirt. You now have a gritty, dirt based lapping compound!
![FNAF vs TF2 - Episode 2 [SFM]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z5b3V2-VLb0/mqdefault.jpg)
Just getting back into 1/8 scale after about ten years out of the hobby. These videos are awesome man thank you!
That is awesome!
thanks for the tip Adam, always very helpful.
My pleasure!
Thanks for the tip Adam! Chassis has seen its better days!
Thank you so much for this video it is super helpful to the new person I learn better by watching someone do it it was kind of you to take the time.
My pleasure.
Super impressed by just how free the drivetrain is on these newer buggies and Truggies. My old Rc8 with spiral cut ring gears and what not isn't nearly as free spinning as the new stuff. Even with brand new bearings ! Nice work Adam!!
Thank you!
I know this is a 2 year old comment. But I have a AE RC8 with the spiral ring and pinions and mine was and still is super free.
@@daveshank1921
Compare it with a new buggy. It’s smooth and free on the rc8 but the new stuff is even better
@@bigdaddyd82vapes92 I have. I Have a EB48.4 that I got new and a NB48.4 used that I had to put new ring and pinions in and my RC8 is as free as those are. IDK maybe it's the grease I'm using. Could be the bearings too. I always use metal shield bearing and clean n oil them. I'm not saying your wrong. Im just saying my experience. My RC8 is as free as my Teknos. It's an old car but it still haul you know what.
@@daveshank1921
I loved my old Rc8. It was OLD and tired tho. Could have picked up a warp somewhere. I always used the AE rubber sealed bearings and cleaned out the grease and replaced it with bearing oil and I would remove the inside shield from the bearings. All stripped down and disconnected from the motor. If I spin the drivetrain it would stop way before the new at the time RC8.2
Nice Video!
I set my mesh the same way, I like to hold the spur and pinion and create the little "Tick" your talking about so its not too tight, but still good.
Thank you Adam, for the very helpful and informative video.
My pleasure, thanks for watching.
Awesome as usual mijo good luck in Perth !!!
Thank you!
Great info as always. Nice thing about your advice, its selfless and capable. Love your black ring(tungsten?)and I have been a G-shock fan since I was a kid. Love Indiglo.
Thank you! That ring is rubber, but I also have a black tungsten one. :)
I used to use thread locker on the engine bolts until I was told by a fellow racer that the loctite will loose it's holding properties at the high temperatures that the engine produces, also with the alloy engine mounts being a softer metal they will act as a spring holding the steel bolts so they can't vibrate loose. Ever since then I have never used threadlocker on the engine bolts, just snuggin them tightly down has never let me down so far, have you had engines moving without Adam? Many thanks for your awesomeness in these videos and what you do for our sport/hobby
that is true to an extent, Heat is the way to loosen loctite; however, it still leaves material behind and still does work. Also there is High temp Loctite you can use, but I don't recommend that because it is rated as permanent and you may not get the screws back out.
@@therccollaborative9524 thanks for your reply, just watched your videos, great content sir, looking forward to seeing more from you, keep up the fantastic work sir
@@nitrokillers Thank you! I appreciate that, allot more content to come, I am just getting started!
You can also use the Protek 3mm lock washers if you don't want to use thread lock for the screws that go through the case into the engine mount.
Hello Adam, that is the mesh(backlash) I use. One thing that I don't do is the grease on open gears, great way to pick-up dirt. I have raced rc a long time, but my background is auto tech. Straight cut gears are always noisy. What my question to you is how do you get your drive train so free? Awesome job with all you have accomplished and for the future. God Bless Ya Dave.
I use the Mugen NMB bearings. The bearings are really smooth and free. They seems to get better over time. I spray out the bearings with brake cleaner and then use Tri-Flow or a thin synthetic motor oil. I then use the Protek white grease on the ring and pinion gears. I plan to do a video on this in the future.
Thanks I'll have to try them. God Bless Ya Dave @@AdamDrake
Thank you!
your the mesh master thanks ad you are the zen of nitro hands down I tell my nitro gear heads that your my professor, keep them vids coming! mucho beuno!
Thank you very much!
I have always used the paper trick, if the piece comes out like an accordion, mesh is good. If it tears, too tight. No accordion, too loose. Your method is much more precise.
Also another trick is to never remove the bottom engine mount once set and use the top screws to remove the engine, that will set the mesh for good.
Yes, that works well!
That's why I like the quick change mount. Set it once and forget it
Do you ever have an issue getting grease on the clutch shoes since you have a vented clutch bell? How do you avoid that? Any time I've tried putting any grease on the spur/bell it just seems to fling off and get everywhere.
I am interested to hear his response, I believe he put such a little amount, just a film, that there isn't excess to fling?
@@therccollaborative9524 My personal experience is you cannot put little enough. I've tried Lucas White Lithium Grease, Mobile 1 Red grease (this is what I use on the ring and pinion for the front and rear), Black Grease, and Protek Blue. Granted with such a little amount there isn't much to fling, but I guarantee some of that will fling off. I'm not so much worried about the mess, as much as getting grease between the clutch bell and clutch shoes and making the clutch slip / be inconsistent. I can see it being a non-issue if he had a closed clutch bell.
Hey Adam, I have a question about bearings
Would you recommend rubber sealed or the hybrid version of the bearings with one rubber shield and one rubber shield, I want to make my drive train super smooth like yours
Metal shields will be the smoothest, but the hybrid with a rubber seal works great in dusty conditions.
I will say I noticed you didn’t use the washers on the underneath of the buggy to hold the engine mounts? I’ve noticed with using them it seems to be able to move around a lot more. With no washers it seems like when you tighten it, it wil automatically go to a certain spot. The washers seem to allow he screw to move around more. Hope this makes sense?
Yes, I use the washers on the underside to secure the engine mount.
Thanks!!👍👍
I've had my mesh tight on plastic 3 years plus. I can't believe it my self
:)
Can't see, camera wasn't adjusted properly.
Helpful as always , I use a piece of paper to get the mesh close , but now I am gonna try this one , and I use a dry lube on my bell ( is that ok?) it coats it nicely , thanks for the help
Yes, the paper works well. The dry lube should work well.
How are you doing? Does Mugen make an engine mount that can be adjusted because on my truggy it has that one piece engine mount and I can't slide the engine back and it's too close to the spur gear and I'm running the reds racing clutch. What can I do?
Mugen doesn't sell an adjustable engine mount, but I know in the past Maifield and Ogden did you a Reds clutch in the Mugen with the Mugen one piece mount. The guys from LCRC Raceway make an engine mount to move the engine back 1 or 2 mm which should work.
@@AdamDrake Thank you, I will try and see
My pleasure!
This helped a lot thanks Drake
My pleasure, thank you!
Are the bolts in stainless steel?
That gear mesh set is applied too for electric buggys?
Yes, it's basically the same.
what is average gear ratio between spur & bell /right now i have 48:14..i want more acceleration..bigger bell? IDK really
I usually run 13/46 for nitro. If you want more acceleration, you'll want a larger spur gear.
you make that all look so easy
:)
Hi adam, im having trouble with my novarossi engine. It seems like my lsn is rich but its acting good and optimal when i give it power. But when i let it idle after a couple sec the idle drop down and sometimes the engine dies from loading up. My lsn is already .6-.7mm in from flush and i dont feel right leaning them even more even tho my idle keeps dropping.
It sounds like the LSN is still a bit rich. Try leaning the LSN and adjusting the idea if need to have it drop down to idle and be more stable.
@@AdamDrake got it. One more thing when the engine is cold it can idle right and sound right, after it get up to temperature the idle sound like fourstroking and is going to die from loading up. Does this mean i got low compression? But i can restart the car easily when hot
Sound like blubbering
It sounds like the LSN is rich if it's blubbering. Try leaning the LSN and adjusting the idea if need to have it drop down to idle and be more stable. If you can take a short video and send it to me it would be helpful. adrake@mugenracing.com
Subtle, critical basics.
Hope to see you in Perth mate :)
:)
Camera isn't that far up on your table adam
What switch is being used on your buggy?
JRPA003, but it's no longer sold. :(
Adam Drake Bummer. See you at the Holiday Hangover! Justin Wilde events are always awesome.
See you soon!
Adam, you are THE RC PROFESSOR, (but please loose that TLR servo horn, that is unacceptable (LOL))
Haha. You got it!
Thanks
Welcome
Hey Drake, can't see the mesh. Completely out of camera.
6:15
@@AdamDrake thank you sir!
holy shit look how easy that keeps spinning. Great tip but how about a tip about how to keep your driveline so smooth
Yes, I'll do a bearing video soon.
And when the engine isnt straight in the car and a bit angled to the spur you blow clutch bearings a lot quicker! Haha
Correct.
We can not see if you show outside camera view
6:15
Adam!!!! grease on a spir and clutch gear!!!! Um sorry dirt comes into play as soon as you put the car down in the dirt. You now have a gritty, dirt based lapping compound!
VX Adventures If you set it correctly you don’t need grease and if anything grease will attract dirt and chew it up even more in my experience
That car has seen some shit
LOL. Yes sir.
Who actually disliked the video
Haha. Hater's gonna hate. :)
Hi adam i sent u an email couple days ago about me asking stuff out. Hopefully u can help me:D thx
Basically lol
:)