Thanks, you're the first one out of the videos I've watched on this machine, that mentioned it had adjustable stitching. This was the one thing that was holding me back.
Another channel called 'Manly Acres' has some good set-up videos using this machine and explains a lot of the basic set-up. He sure helped me get mine working like it should. Thanks 1802 Leather for telling me how to backstitch. I'm just learning here after hand sewing leather - it saves so much time
When you showed a closeup of the reverse side, the stitching did not look so good. It appeared to me, that you might have a tensioning issue. Can you adjust the machine sufficiently to allow top & bottom threads to cross in the center of the material for nearly any thickness? Also, your link showed a machine with one tensioning control. Some others have two controls. Can you explain why you chose the single control?
You can mod it with a electric motor and pedal you can buy at eBay and Amazon it costs not much and you have a electric sewing machine! Best regards, and thank you for your video.
Really enjoyed your video made me get a machine having issues need to know what size thread and needle you are using any advice would be helpful thank you very much
I have one of these machines and they have a flat shank needle which is a domestic type needle. The flat shank needles only go upto size 140/22. The largest thead you can use for that needle is a #138 thread. Get the bonded nylon #138 thread. The machine will need some slight tuning and detailing as well to perform best. You issues are probably relaited to the bobbin case.
Here is an artical on your question. Apparently a #135 thread with a 140/22 Needle. simpleshoemaking.com/wp/an-even-more-affordable-shoe-stitching-machine/
Looks like you painted the drive wheel and base arm with black paint? If you did this to stop it from rusting why did you not paint the other metal parts? I like to use car wax instead (to help prevent rust) but it is difficult sometimes to see if you have covered the entire part with the clear wax.
Thinking about getting one of these. If you look at the stiching at 5:30 the stitches on the left look like they are out of allignment. They look like \\\ instead of ------ if that makes sense. The top row looks strait. Is this a setting, user input, an illusion or what?
Hello. I have seen the leather strip that you had in your hand during your video. Can you please tell me what is the maximum lenght stitch on this machine if you sew a piece of cardboard like a business card. Thanks for answering me
I bought one of these. They work fine BUT...the bobbin is way to small. I ran a belt through using button hole thread and one bobbin worked for the belt. When I switched to T90 thread to get a better thread appearance the bobbin ran out 2/3 of the way through. I didn't catch it right away and had to try to match up 30 holes in the belt to finish it. Lost a lot of time on this. Once you punch leather you have to hit the holes exactly to fix errors. That said, it's a great machine for small projects with shorter stitch runs.
I just got the cobbler machine and trying to tune it. What thread dia. and needle are you using? Also, my foot mares the leather. What have you done to prevent leather damage?
Use a "Dremel' (rotary tool) to slightly grind/polish the spikes down on the underside of the foot. Also, you can buy some wax/plastic to create a hot dip. you then dip the lower end of the foot assembly in this dip. You may need to use a drill bit to 'shave' the needle hole in the foot so it doesn't restrict the vertical plunging movement.
I dipped the foot in plastic dip. It's the rubber stuff for tool handles. Then I put a small bit of 2,000 grit sandpaper on the bottom to grip but not scratch the leather.
It could be and number of things from timing to a bur inside the machine. Mine stopped working after I changed the bobbin carriage. I was bigger then then the old one and could not let the thread pass. I had to sand it down. I've also run into issues sewing thick leather. I found the foot has to go down far enough to finish walking it it's all out of whack. I've also found the thread breaks on thicker leather sometimes if the collar that holds the needle bottoms out on top of the foot on the left where the thread passes. More people have been having issues as more sellers pop up. I think the main issue is over seas from new manufactures using a machine to copy that was made from a copy of another machine. When you see then in use over seas they always work with out issue. Even mine is not prefect after all I've done to it. You might look up a group on FaceBook call "china leather shoepatcher" Maybe post a video. As a group they know a whole lot more then I do.
Since this video I dipped the foot in rubber dip for tool handles. Then I glued a little bit of super fine sandpaper to the bottom to get some grip. I should have a link for the rubber in the description. If not check one of my newer videos for the link.
+Eazy Rider I have the same exact thoughts. I have two machines, this one and a Juki industrial model single lock stitch, but want a longer top stitch for the 1.3m leather I am using on MY 1967 C10 bucket seats that I will drive for the rest of my life. At age 61, doesn't seam like a short time, but I am in extreme chronic pain. As an ASE Master Tech since 1978, self taught, I want to be able to tell my friends, family and high school buddies, that I did this. I keep experimenting with different needles, yet not to my satisfactory as of late. I hope to find the holy grail, using the #138 thread, the exact 1.3m leather in a reinforced french seam stitch that I can be proud of. Still looking! You can not take these ASE test without having been there and done that. The questions are designed that way. They least 5 years, but you can re-certify every 5, 6 or 8 years. It's the money they want to give you patches for you shirt and jobs you can get at a high flare rate pay. Shops that pay by the hour, then give the tech a cut of parts are dangerous to your wallet. YOU MUST ASK! Easy Rider, I am with you. I think the hole looks bigger than the thread, but still using bonded nylon #136 thread and place the thread into the needles side groove to see if it fits ok. Warning, Different materials give different results with the same needle & thread combo for those not familiar with $4k machines. The 1/4" leather has nice constant thread lines or straight, until you change the length of stitch you want. 1.4 threads per cm or 1.4 threads per 10 mm is the same. Learning the metric system is needed as it started with Jimmy Carter. Yep, turn down thermostats to 65 in the winter, drop speeds to 55 instead of 75 MPH, and deal with it. It's called the Arab oil embargo. Almost got run over buy big-rigs on interstates as they changed lanes for slow 55 MPH drivers. Off topic. This machine requires attention and can work well thru thicker materials, but addressing issues that people have would be nice. Speak & type!
Ok i went to your link but I'm yet at a loss how to order thread and the rubber for the ? .... I dunno I'm lost! I went and read your tool lists but i don't understand what I'm reading. Storm you have video suggestions on your channel? Id like to make those boys that there was a picture of on your site. I love that boot. Please help me.thank you. My name is Ronnette
With a little tinkering, my machine handled 207 thread OK with 140/22 needles. These needles are not easy to find in 15x1 but I did locate some on Amazon. One problem with the larger thread is the bobbin does not hold very much of it.
I thing it would well. The machine is a bit temperamental. So you may have to play with it a bit to get it just right. The biggest issue tends to be the tension.
Goodnight I hope and can help me I like to use .8mm or 1.00 thread for hand sewing what number is for a machine like this and what size needle could i use I hope you can help me since I can't find help
it can take whatever you modify it to take there is a facebook page for these with one sewing with 5 threads through 1 needle,the machine takes universal domestic needles out of the box but you can file the needle bar to take industrial needles
Please sir what thread are you using? It's ok i saw another comment on your channel. Thank you. Unless you would let me know where you bought yours thank you
Ok another comment from me... Did you make a tutorial video on making that Renaissance boot? I'd subscribe to that all day long.! I think others would too.!
The thread coming from the bobbing keeps snapping at about 3 or 4 stitches in. I loosened the tension on both upper and lower thread, it still happens. Any idea what’s going onv
Hey I had the same issue. Make sure the timing is correct (handle at 12oclock + bobbin case at 3) Try lowering the needle a little. I also found out that the smooth curved side sews better. Sand paper any rough edges the thread had to go through. And make sure the bobbin thread can be pulled through without any harsh tension. Hope any of these can help :)
@@leathercraftertips I see strictly leather holsters and gun belts. What size needles and thread do you recommend? I don't wish to be a pain , I see you have more experience than I. So far everything I have made is all by hand, thought this machine would speed up my production and make it easier.
What size needle and thread do you use? I have the same sewing machine and use 62 size thread with the original needle. I wondering if it could handle 92 size thread? Good Luck!
Many RUclips videos claim that size 138 (T135) thread can be used top and bottom with an appropriately sized needle. I believe a size 22 needle is the proper size for that thread.
BulletShogun, yes it will, but make sure you keep sharp leather needles. I stropped my needles after every 8 hours of sewing. I no longer have this machine, I replaced it with my Tippmann Boss. I want another one for when I do repairs in the field, the Tippmann now weighs to much for me to move from show to show since my leg amputation. It says it will do a half inch, but 3/8 was the limit mine would do without problems.
Your foot may be bent, or require filing. If you are unable to fix those, write down how many degrees to the right it tends, and correct that amount left by swivelling the walking foot.
They are sold by a number of retailers, in different colors (I've seen red and green ones) but I believe them to be made in the same factory in China...I paid about $140.00 for the one I bought on Amazon...but please take my word for it, unless you are an awfully good mechanic you will never get this machine to perform properly, and even then you will have to constantly tweak the machine every time you change the material or weight of the material you are attempting to sew. The bobbin capacity is awful as well...the are just too small and the machine will not handle thread heavy enough to do proper leather work, which is what I wanted to do with mine. Mine hit the garbage can and I bought a Cowboy Outlaw...pricey, but I can't afford to beg and threaten my machine into giving me proper results...time is money and this machine is a waste of both.
dale pratt I know what you mean,I just bought the cowboy 3200.i looked at the outlaw but wanted something a little faster than one stitch at a time.the guy at the shop that sold the outlaw said most of the ones that were sold are to people who need a portable machine that doesn’t require electricity,which makes a lot of sense to me now.the cobbler machine gave me the bug for working with leather,so I do owe it that.I still enjoy playing around with my shoe patcher and for $140 you can’t go wrong.
So this will not sew 20oz leather? I make gun belts and need a sewing machine that will sew up to 20oz leather. I just don't want to pay $1,500 for one.
EVERYONE who has made the mistake of buying this machine has trouble with it. I know, I bought one myself, quickly found out it was not worth the time and trouble. Folks, if you are serious about stitching leather and want hassle-free performance then bite the bullet and get something like the Cowboy Outlaw. It is comparable to the Tippmann Boss, except it is made of iron and steel, not aluminum and plastic, and it is cheaper as well...it simply works without a bunch of aggravating set up, tweaking and ruined projects. Take it from someone who has went this route and is sorry they did. These machines are cheap, horribly finished and they need to remain in China. I'm not knocking all imports, but I'm surely knocking this one.
I got mine to sew with 207 thread and commercial needles with less than a weekend worth of work. Polish the bobbin and shuttle, clean up the cover hole, re-time the machine for longer commercial needles and lube everything and it works excellent. Mine sews 2 layers of 6Oz Vegtan with 207 thread like butter. these are 3/4 finished "kits", not ready to run machines, no matter what anyone says. Finish tuning them and cleaning up castings and It runs holster leather as seamlessly as my Singer 15 does on Cloth. YMMV. Oh, and I can buy 10 of these for the cost of a Cowboy Outlaw.
AV lawns mine works great too, just needs a little tuning and polishing. Most people lack common sense and patience to figure out anything. As with most things, user error.
@@avlawns3037 Yes it takes a bit of clean up and learning how to fine tune the timing. But in the end it will work. This style of machine is a clone of the one made in the 1870s. It's a simple easy to make machine. But must be fine tuned.
@@avlawns3037 Ditto, my experience too. Made a better base for mine and lots of smoothing and tinkering. Within a few days I had it sewing 207 thread top and bottom with a 140/22 needle, stack of leather 3/8 inch thick. Works fine but not for someone afraid of tools and tinkering. Can't beat the price too, for a solid cast iron frame and steel parts, very heavy duty.
I bought one of these. They work fine BUT...the bobbin is way to small. I ran a belt through using button hole thread and one bobbin worked for the belt. When I switched to T90 thread to get a better thread appearance the bobbin ran out 2/3 of the way through. I didn't catch it right away and had to try to match up 30 holes in the belt to finish it. Lost a lot of time on this. Once you punch leather you have to hit the holes exactly to fix errors. That said, it's a great machine for small projects with shorter stitch runs.
I bought one of these. They work fine BUT...the bobbin is way to small. I ran a belt through using button hole thread and one bobbin worked for the belt. When I switched to T90 thread to get a better thread appearance the bobbin ran out 2/3 of the way through. I didn't catch it right away and had to try to match up 30 holes in the belt to finish it. Lost a lot of time on this. Once you punch leather you have to hit the holes exactly to fix errors. That said, it's a great machine for small projects with shorter stitch runs.
I added links for the machine, thread and more in the description.
Thanks, you're the first one out of the videos I've watched on this machine, that mentioned it had adjustable stitching. This was the one thing that was holding me back.
i never knew! valuable info and no one else mentioned it.
These videos are gold! i just got my machine in and i have no clue how to work it yet.
Check out the many youtube videos!
Another channel called 'Manly Acres' has some good set-up videos using this machine and explains a lot of the basic set-up. He sure helped me get mine working like it should. Thanks 1802 Leather for telling me how to backstitch. I'm just learning here after hand sewing leather - it saves so much time
Nice job demonstrating and instructing. Thank you!
I'm going to get one of those this year in December for my birthday or Christmas.
It's amazing.
Your friend's video is fresh and beautiful good video. It was a good healing time. Thank you very much
Thank you. I’m intrigued with this machine.
Can you please do a video on set up and threading the machine?
When you showed a closeup of the reverse side, the stitching did not look so good. It appeared to me, that you might have a tensioning issue. Can you adjust the machine sufficiently to allow top & bottom threads to cross in the center of the material for nearly any thickness?
Also, your link showed a machine with one tensioning control. Some others have two controls. Can you explain why you chose the single control?
You can mod it with a electric motor and pedal you can buy at eBay and Amazon it costs not much and you have a electric sewing machine!
Best regards, and thank you for your video.
I want to do shoes customs and I was wondering if you could sew patches and fabric onto the shoes with this machine. Thank you 👍🏽
Yes you can. This machine is specifically designed for boots so you should be able to do whatever you want.
Can u please stitch a top sole of a sandal to bottom sole using this machine and do a video? Thank you...
Hi. thanks for the video. I would have a question, to sew with thread thicker than 0.6, for example, what should I do?
Can you show how to feed the thread and the bobbin
Really enjoyed your video made me get a machine having issues need to know what size thread and needle you are using any advice would be helpful thank you very much
I have one of these machines and they have a flat shank needle which is a domestic type needle. The flat shank needles only go upto size 140/22. The largest thead you can use for that needle is a #138 thread. Get the bonded nylon #138 thread. The machine will need some slight tuning and detailing as well to perform best.
You issues are probably relaited to the bobbin case.
Here is an artical on your question. Apparently a #135 thread with a 140/22 Needle.
simpleshoemaking.com/wp/an-even-more-affordable-shoe-stitching-machine/
Here is a video on fine tuning and detailing
ruclips.net/video/DB9wwwC7V5M/видео.html
I use a #18 needle with #69 thread or #20 needle with #91 thread.
Great Tips.. Gems... Thank you!
Thanks! Be sure to Sub. I have other videos and more on the way.
Looks like you painted the drive wheel and base arm with black paint? If you did this to stop it from rusting why did you not paint the other metal parts? I like to use car wax instead (to help prevent rust) but it is difficult sometimes to see if you have covered the entire part with the clear wax.
Thinking about getting one of these. If you look at the stiching at 5:30 the stitches on the left look like they are out of allignment. They look like \\\ instead of ------ if that makes sense. The top row looks strait. Is this a setting, user input, an illusion or what?
Hello thanks for a video. Would you please send a link if there’s one for the thread you use ? Thanks again
Outstanding
Hello. I have seen the leather strip that you had in your hand during your video. Can you please tell me what is the maximum lenght stitch on this machine if you sew a piece of cardboard like a business card.
Thanks for answering me
I bought one of these. They work fine BUT...the bobbin is way to small. I
ran a belt through using button hole thread and one bobbin worked for
the belt. When I switched to T90 thread to get a better thread
appearance the bobbin ran out 2/3 of the way through. I didn't catch it
right away and had to try to match up 30 holes in the belt to finish it.
Lost a lot of time on this. Once you punch leather you have to hit the
holes exactly to fix errors. That said, it's a great machine for small
projects with shorter stitch runs.
What size needle and thread are you using. I just bought one
I just got the cobbler machine and trying to tune it. What thread dia. and needle are you using? Also, my foot mares the leather. What have you done to prevent leather damage?
Use a "Dremel' (rotary tool) to slightly grind/polish the spikes down on the underside of the foot. Also, you can buy some wax/plastic to create a hot dip. you then dip the lower end of the foot assembly in this dip. You may need to use a drill bit to 'shave' the needle hole in the foot so it doesn't restrict the vertical plunging movement.
Legal 👌 que linha vc usou nessa costura ?
Really nice.
Thanks!!!!
Congrats mi friend, very goof video, how much did you paid for your machine?
Thanks!
Thank you! I paid about $150.00 I have a link in the description for one. I think the price is lower on the one.
Did you smooth down the grooves on the foot?
I dipped the foot in plastic dip. It's the rubber stuff for tool handles. Then I put a small bit of 2,000 grit sandpaper on the bottom to grip but not scratch the leather.
I’ve been trying for weeks to get mine to work. Watched a million videos on RUclips and still no luck. Any ideas
It could be and number of things from timing to a bur inside the machine. Mine stopped working after I changed the bobbin carriage. I was bigger then then the old one and could not let the thread pass. I had to sand it down. I've also run into issues sewing thick leather. I found the foot has to go down far enough to finish walking it it's all out of whack. I've also found the thread breaks on thicker leather sometimes if the collar that holds the needle bottoms out on top of the foot on the left where the thread passes. More people have been having issues as more sellers pop up. I think the main issue is over seas from new manufactures using a machine to copy that was made from a copy of another machine. When you see then in use over seas they always work with out issue. Even mine is not prefect after all I've done to it. You might look up a group on FaceBook call "china leather shoepatcher" Maybe post a video. As a group they know a whole lot more then I do.
What do you make with this machine?
Thank you.
Hello, can you tell me some solutions to reduce the marks left by the transport foot in the leather?
Since this video I dipped the foot in rubber dip for tool handles. Then I glued a little bit of super fine sandpaper to the bottom to get some grip. I should have a link for the rubber in the description. If not check one of my newer videos for the link.
Is that a 140/22 flat shank needle and a #138 thread?.
+Eazy Rider I have the same exact thoughts. I have two machines, this one and a Juki industrial model single lock stitch, but want a longer top stitch for the 1.3m leather I am using on MY 1967 C10 bucket seats that I will drive for the rest of my life. At age 61, doesn't seam like a short time, but I am in extreme chronic pain. As an ASE Master Tech since 1978, self taught, I want to be able to tell my friends, family and high school buddies, that I did this.
I keep experimenting with different needles, yet not to my satisfactory as of late. I hope to find the holy grail, using the #138 thread, the exact 1.3m leather in a reinforced french seam stitch that I can be proud of. Still looking!
You can not take these ASE test without having been there and done that. The questions are designed that way. They least 5 years, but you can re-certify every 5, 6 or 8 years. It's the money they want to give you patches for you shirt and jobs you can get at a high flare rate pay. Shops that pay by the hour, then give the tech a cut of parts are dangerous to your wallet. YOU MUST ASK!
Easy Rider, I am with you. I think the hole looks bigger than the thread, but still using bonded nylon #136 thread and place the thread into the needles side groove to see if it fits ok. Warning, Different materials give different results with the same needle & thread combo for those not familiar with $4k machines. The 1/4" leather has nice constant thread lines or straight, until you change the length of stitch you want. 1.4 threads per cm or 1.4 threads per 10 mm is the same. Learning the metric system is needed as it started with Jimmy Carter. Yep, turn down thermostats to 65 in the winter, drop speeds to 55 instead of 75 MPH, and deal with it. It's called the Arab oil embargo. Almost got run over buy big-rigs on interstates as they changed lanes for slow 55 MPH drivers.
Off topic. This machine requires attention and can work well thru thicker materials, but addressing issues that people have would be nice. Speak & type!
How do you change it so the thread is neat and close together rattan than a line?
Ok i went to your link but I'm yet at a loss how to order thread and the rubber for the ? .... I dunno I'm lost! I went and read your tool lists but i don't understand what I'm reading.
Storm you have video suggestions on your channel? Id like to make those boys that there was a picture of on your site. I love that boot. Please help me.thank you. My name is Ronnette
What is the thickest thread that this machine can use and what is the needle size. Thank you for the reply.
With a little tinkering, my machine handled 207 thread OK with 140/22 needles. These needles are not easy to find in 15x1 but I did locate some on Amazon. One problem with the larger thread is the bobbin does not hold very much of it.
Did you place some sort of pad on the foot?
sand the grooves down and dip it in plasidip
I stitch 14-16 oz on a regular basis. How would this hold up? I’ve seen the video of it going through the tire so I’m optimistic
I thing it would well. The machine is a bit temperamental. So you may have to play with it a bit to get it just right. The biggest issue tends to be the tension.
@@leathercraftertips thanks! Do you order your needles from amazon?
@@chandlersanders Yes you should see links in the description. Thanks 👍
Goodnight
I hope and can help me
I like to use .8mm or 1.00 thread for hand sewing
what number is for a machine like this and what size needle could i use
I hope you can help me since I can't find help
I use a #18 leather needle and #69 bonded nylon thread. Should have links below the video. Take care!
Thank you very much for your information, God bless you.
What needles are you using? I tried on saddle leather, bends the needle every time
How do you get tight stitch I’m learning on mine and I get loops and isn’t a tight stitch ?
Hi Gassed! Loops on top = tighten top tension spring. Loops on bottom = tighten bobbin tension on bobbin case. 🤓
Hi. Can you tell me what the heaviest tread the patcher can handle is? THANKS
it can take whatever you modify it to take there is a facebook page for these with one sewing with 5 threads through 1 needle,the machine takes universal domestic needles out of the box but you can file the needle bar to take industrial needles
Please sir what thread are you using?
It's ok i saw another comment on your channel.
Thank you. Unless you would let me know where you bought yours thank you
I added links in the description.
What size thread do you yuse?
Ok another comment from me... Did you make a tutorial video on making that Renaissance boot? I'd subscribe to that all day long.! I think others would too.!
The thread coming from the bobbing keeps snapping at about 3 or 4 stitches in. I loosened the tension on both upper and lower thread, it still happens. Any idea what’s going onv
Hey I had the same issue.
Make sure the timing is correct (handle at 12oclock + bobbin case at 3)
Try lowering the needle a little. I also found out that the smooth curved side sews better.
Sand paper any rough edges the thread had to go through.
And make sure the bobbin thread can be pulled through without any harsh tension.
Hope any of these can help :)
@@nayt7357 thank you so so much!!!
I see there are several brands on Amazon, which one or brand would you recommend?
Hi Curtis, Check the description on one of my newer videos. I have a link to one I like.
@@leathercraftertips I see strictly leather holsters and gun belts. What size needles and thread do you recommend? I don't wish to be a pain , I see you have more experience than I. So far everything I have made is all by hand, thought this machine would speed up my production and make it easier.
What size needle and thread do you use? I have the same sewing machine and use 62 size thread with the original needle. I wondering if it could handle 92 size thread?
Good Luck!
Many RUclips videos claim that size 138 (T135) thread can be used top and bottom with an appropriately sized needle. I believe a size 22 needle is the proper size for that thread.
Can confirm a T135 thread will work on this machine, though the bobbin only holds about 1m (bit over a yard) of this size thread.
will it work with doubled up 9 oz? i like making holsters.
BulletShogun, yes it will, but make sure you keep sharp leather needles. I stropped my needles after every 8 hours of sewing. I no longer have this machine, I replaced it with my Tippmann Boss. I want another one for when I do repairs in the field, the Tippmann now weighs to much for me to move from show to show since my leg amputation. It says it will do a half inch, but 3/8 was the limit mine would do without problems.
I've sewn up to 1/2 inch. It's rough and you need to go slow but it works. You may need a size 22 needle and T90 thread. Links above.
Does someone knows which is the thickest thread this machine can use?
Quiero compran una para coser suelas de bigornia,corta. Por favor informenme donde la consigo gracias.
Como todo, en el Amazon.
I bought one and it tends to go to the right. Any suggestions on how to make it go straight?
Your foot may be bent, or require filing. If you are unable to fix those, write down how many degrees to the right it tends, and correct that amount left by swivelling the walking foot.
Mine started to do that. I put a hose clamp around the housing and that helps.
Who did you get your machine from?
I am wanting to get one , please let me know.
Available on both Amazon and eBay Tony
Amazon links now in the description.
Where did you get this-
I just added a link in the description.
Whats the needle # used for this machine
I use a #18 or #20.
Why mind doesn't goes straight line
Trying to setup my new patcher and having troubles with stitches - can you point me towards instructions
There is a Facebook group CHINA FACEBOOK SHOE PATCHER with a lot of great members willing to help !
watch -- mainey acres, in youtube. This guy has a lot of great info about the patcher machine.
But what's the actual name? And where did you buy it? For how much?
They are sold by a number of retailers, in different colors (I've seen red and green ones) but I believe them to be made in the same factory in China...I paid about $140.00 for the one I bought on Amazon...but please take my word for it, unless you are an awfully good mechanic you will never get this machine to perform properly, and even then you will have to constantly tweak the machine every time you change the material or weight of the material you are attempting to sew. The bobbin capacity is awful as well...the are just too small and the machine will not handle thread heavy enough to do proper leather work, which is what I wanted to do with mine. Mine hit the garbage can and I bought a Cowboy Outlaw...pricey, but I can't afford to beg and threaten my machine into giving me proper results...time is money and this machine is a waste of both.
dale pratt I know what you mean,I just bought the cowboy 3200.i looked at the outlaw but wanted something a little faster than one stitch at a time.the guy at the shop that sold the outlaw said most of the ones that were sold are to people who need a portable machine that doesn’t require electricity,which makes a lot of sense to me now.the cobbler machine gave me the bug for working with leather,so I do owe it that.I still enjoy playing around with my shoe patcher and for $140 you can’t go wrong.
Loosen tension and use waxed thread on thicker leather. Should help stop the broken stitches.
Chinese shoe patcher. Anazon for 120$ to 200$. But they need set up. Bantam Tack sells ready to go models.
@@stevenhatfield1961 I found one on eBay for $45!!
What's the size of thread and needle ?
There is a Facebook group CHINA LEATHER SHOE PATCHER that has a lot of great members willing to help with any questions.
@@JohnCarter-eg4ws Any machine that needs a Facebook support group needs to be avoided.
Hi. The walking foot has a terrible teeth make the work so ugly. Did you make any modification?
file it down dude
So this will not sew 20oz leather? I make gun belts and need a sewing machine that will sew up to 20oz leather. I just don't want to pay $1,500 for one.
Mate!
EVERYONE who has made the mistake of buying this machine has trouble with it. I know, I bought one myself, quickly found out it was not worth the time and trouble. Folks, if you are serious about stitching leather and want hassle-free performance then bite the bullet and get something like the Cowboy Outlaw. It is comparable to the Tippmann Boss, except it is made of iron and steel, not aluminum and plastic, and it is cheaper as well...it simply works without a bunch of aggravating set up, tweaking and ruined projects. Take it from someone who has went this route and is sorry they did. These machines are cheap, horribly finished and they need to remain in China. I'm not knocking all imports, but I'm surely knocking this one.
I got mine to sew with 207 thread and commercial needles with less than a weekend worth of work. Polish the bobbin and shuttle, clean up the cover hole, re-time the machine for longer commercial needles and lube everything and it works excellent. Mine sews 2 layers of 6Oz Vegtan with 207 thread like butter. these are 3/4 finished "kits", not ready to run machines, no matter what anyone says. Finish tuning them and cleaning up castings and It runs holster leather as seamlessly as my Singer 15 does on Cloth. YMMV. Oh, and I can buy 10 of these for the cost of a Cowboy Outlaw.
AV lawns mine works great too, just needs a little tuning and polishing. Most people lack common sense and patience to figure out anything. As with most things, user error.
It’s the rider not the ride!
@@avlawns3037 Yes it takes a bit of clean up and learning how to fine tune the timing. But in the end it will work. This style of machine is a clone of the one made in the 1870s. It's a simple easy to make machine. But must be fine tuned.
@@avlawns3037 Ditto, my experience too. Made a better base for mine and lots of smoothing and tinkering. Within a few days I had it sewing 207 thread top and bottom with a 140/22 needle, stack of leather 3/8 inch thick. Works fine but not for someone afraid of tools and tinkering. Can't beat the price too, for a solid cast iron frame and steel parts, very heavy duty.
I see people ask you questions but you never answer them... SO PEOPLE DON'T SUBSCRIBE TO HIS CHANNEL... I didn't!!!
I bought one of these. They work fine BUT...the bobbin is way to small. I
ran a belt through using button hole thread and one bobbin worked for
the belt. When I switched to T90 thread to get a better thread
appearance the bobbin ran out 2/3 of the way through. I didn't catch it
right away and had to try to match up 30 holes in the belt to finish it.
Lost a lot of time on this. Once you punch leather you have to hit the
holes exactly to fix errors. That said, it's a great machine for small
projects with shorter stitch runs.
I bought one of these. They work fine BUT...the bobbin is way to small. I
ran a belt through using button hole thread and one bobbin worked for
the belt. When I switched to T90 thread to get a better thread
appearance the bobbin ran out 2/3 of the way through. I didn't catch it
right away and had to try to match up 30 holes in the belt to finish it.
Lost a lot of time on this. Once you punch leather you have to hit the
holes exactly to fix errors. That said, it's a great machine for small
projects with shorter stitch runs.