I borrowed your patented “chainsaw in reverse” scene. I love it! I also did some fun reverse clips in the video I’m loading now. I’m going to have to put you in the credits😬
Ha! I am really glad and flattered that you like some of my stuff to share it with others! As far as I am concerned, all art is derivative of what we see and hear and smell and for me to claim these ideas as mine would be bonkers. It makes me really happy that you can use and improve upon what you see here and I plan on doing the same with you! And ultimately both the viewer and the producer benefit. The great beauty of the bottom up spontaneous order of the internet. Thank you!
The sawmills they sell today allow the saw head to rotate from 5degrees to about 20 degrees. Perhaps they never had this feature when you purchased your sawmill but they all have this option today. All the best, Edgar
I have lt 40 different strokes for different folks but I like my big end toward engine it only takes a few sec. to make another cut verses backing up blade and trimming off log works for me like your video may the wind be to your back
just a suggestion you should take your face logs and put a straight edge on both sides and sell as log siding for camps or even deer stands. just another way to make a buck.
Always enjoy watching your videos....trying to learn as much as I can before my LT35 Hydraulic arrives in March. On that note a quick question for you - when you set up that log for your first cut and ran into the issue of the butt end being too big - shouldn't you have used the toe board on the small end to level the log before making your first cut to center the pith and have straighter grain in your lumber? By levelling the log I'm thinking you would have been more likely to avoid the issue? Not criticizing, just simply curious to learn and see what your thinking is on that. Thanks!
Laughed hard when you disgustedly dropped the cant hook to the ground after moving the end of the log. Been there with other projects which worked me to death;-)
Gotcha, I know you are obviously ok to build your outbuildings 200 sq ft or smaller with whatever you want because you aren’t required to get a permit. But for trim siding corners or facia your golden. Anyone who has sight can grade lumber lol.
Great video. Hey are you allowed to build your shop with non-graded lumber? Just curious. I know the material you cut is better than most lumber you can buy in the store.
Making lumber is such fun ! Little tip on stacking long material like this for drying. Set them on the 2" edge on good, level sleepers (l use 6x6's on 12" centers). Stack many layers high, with 1x2 stickers 12" apart, and weight down with lots of cinder block (or other heavy stuff) on top...more weight the better. As the lumber dries, it will take out the worst of the curves in pcs, giving you a lot more straight lumber in the end. I saw a lot of yellow poplar here, and the stuff is TERRIBLE to warp right off the saw. Almost impossible to get a straight 2x6x16-20'. This trick saves a lot of it.
I definitely appreciate the advice! This is Douglas Fir but a few of the boards seemed to have some stress in them causing a slight bow. Edge stacking would certainly help.
Have you ever milled black locust? 75% of the trees of my 43 acres are Locust and thinking about getting a mill and using the Locust for timbers and framing. Any thoughts? Thanks
I’ve never even seen one! But if you have access to logs, you can go wrong with a mill. Even if you don’t end up using it like you’re hoping, they do a great job of holding their value.
James Morgan, I just learned something this evening also. I have never heard of a Black Locust. There are three that grow here, Yellow Locust, Honey Locust, and Scrub Locust, Scrub Locust is often the most popular seedling for the strip mines, and water shed control for excavated areas. Not much good for any lumber, as its more of a less costly variety. You can use it tho, when its dry as firewood. Thank you for posting James
As always, great videos when showing your saw in use. The leading end of that log you said was 17 by 19 in, what was the trailing end of that logs dimension before cutting it? I have seen these sawmills come with single and double posts on the mill heads. Do you have any issues with it being a single post?
I've had both Timberking and now a Woodmizer LT 40 hyd with the 35 hp kohler. Both are good mills, but the deck hydraulics on the Woodmizer are far stronger and the logs stops on the Woodmizer are far more beefier. The cantilever head on the woodmizer, along with the angled deck, make changing blades, unloading and leveling far easier. My TK was a 1600, not their "top of the line" mill by a long shot. But the LT 40 is a giant step up in cutting speed and quality of cut from the 1600. For an extra 3k, the quality is worth the difference.
My first mill was a Woodland Mills HM 126. I fabricated my own siding jig that works with the hydraulic log clamp. I demonstrate it in my very first video.
Not answering for Northwest Sawyer, but I cut mine using the inch scale, 2x6. So I come out with about a 1 7/8" x 5 7/8" board after it dries 6mo or so. (kerf and drying loss) That works fine for rough buildings such as barns/sheds. For a house wall, I work my stud/plate material up on rainy days in the shop, running one side on a long bed jointer to get a straight edge on one side, the rip on the table saw to 5 1/2" (or 3 1/2" for 2x4). I leave the 2" thickness alone, since it only makes the stud stronger, and the space lost in the stud cavity makes no difference. For rafters and floor joists, I generally leave the lumber as is. Trick to working with rough lumber is to set the varying widths "down"....in the case of rafters, you keep the top plane the same for a smooth roof, and any variance in board width goes to the attic side where it doesn't matter. In the case of floor joists (crawl space), the ends sometimes have to be 'carved' slightly on the ends where they meet the mud sill plate. Lot of tricks to working with rough lumber.
Lots of good lumber
That looked like a good result from that one log.
Couple nice chunks there to work on.
Nice demonstration of the process. Thanks
I borrowed your patented “chainsaw in reverse” scene. I love it! I also did some fun reverse clips in the video I’m loading now. I’m going to have to put you in the credits😬
Ha! I am really glad and flattered that you like some of my stuff to share it with others! As far as I am concerned, all art is derivative of what we see and hear and smell and for me to claim these ideas as mine would be bonkers. It makes me really happy that you can use and improve upon what you see here and I plan on doing the same with you! And ultimately both the viewer and the producer benefit. The great beauty of the bottom up spontaneous order of the internet. Thank you!
1:50 that was a quite satisfying sound.
That was a heck of a stick there! Got to love hydraulics!
Boy do I!
The only guy I knew who actually owned a sawmill said the hydraulic lift was NON OPTIONAL.
This was a really good video
Thank you, Glenn. I appreciate that.
The sawmills they sell today allow the saw head to rotate from 5degrees to about 20 degrees. Perhaps they never had this feature when you purchased your sawmill but they all have this option today. All the best, Edgar
👍👍👍👍 Great video!
Thank you! Gaston Cannon
Watching an oldie but a goodie...
Ahhhhh. The classics😬
I have lt 40 different strokes for different folks but I like my big end toward engine it only takes a few sec. to make another cut verses backing up blade and trimming off log works for me like your video may the wind be to your back
I like the butt end at the saw head. I also think he wasted some lumber by not picking up one end to make in level
just a suggestion you should take your face logs and put a straight edge on both sides and sell as log siding for camps or even deer stands. just another way to make a buck.
Sawyers are always happy cuz they wake up to wood.
Always enjoy watching your videos....trying to learn as much as I can before my LT35 Hydraulic arrives in March. On that note a quick question for you - when you set up that log for your first cut and ran into the issue of the butt end being too big - shouldn't you have used the toe board on the small end to level the log before making your first cut to center the pith and have straighter grain in your lumber? By levelling the log I'm thinking you would have been more likely to avoid the issue? Not criticizing, just simply curious to learn and see what your thinking is on that. Thanks!
That log is easy to cut, I’d like to see you cut pine from the one with lot of rubber
A simple conveyor table addition would take the scrap away and help keep the working area clean and safe.
so cool
NWS;
Do you get your lumber stamped? Does your area permit residential construction with ungraded lumber?
Like your LT35
TKSLEE
Nice. Are the 2X6 drying?
where i live thats nearly 350$ worth of lumber. sawmill is a wonderfull thing lol
Laughed hard when you disgustedly dropped the cant hook to the ground after moving the end of the log. Been there with other projects which worked me to death;-)
David Conaway 😬
At that rate 16 logs pays for your mill saw that great. A saw pays for itself
Build that home 🏡 or detached building you always want for yourself
The opportunities are endless if you have a mill and an imagination.
Gotcha, I know you are obviously ok to build your outbuildings 200 sq ft or smaller with whatever you want because you aren’t required to get a permit. But for trim siding corners or facia your golden. Anyone who has sight can grade lumber lol.
Great video. Hey are you allowed to build your shop with non-graded lumber? Just curious. I know the material you cut is better than most lumber you can buy in the store.
I’m looking into that. I think if the building is considered AG or forestry it doesn’t have to be graded lumber.
Find the cant size , multiply the DUB by point 700, 17.5 x .700= 12 1/4"
Making lumber is such fun !
Little tip on stacking long material like this for drying. Set them on the 2" edge on good, level sleepers (l use 6x6's on 12" centers). Stack many layers high, with 1x2 stickers 12" apart, and weight down with lots of cinder block (or other heavy stuff) on top...more weight the better.
As the lumber dries, it will take out the worst of the curves in pcs, giving you a lot more straight lumber in the end. I saw a lot of yellow poplar here, and the stuff is TERRIBLE to warp right off the saw. Almost impossible to get a straight 2x6x16-20'. This trick saves a lot of it.
I definitely appreciate the advice! This is Douglas Fir but a few of the boards seemed to have some stress in them causing a slight bow. Edge stacking would certainly help.
Nice! Why not use the Case tractor to get the logs to the mill rather than the peavey?
Set of forks for the tractor would come in real handy
Have you ever milled black locust? 75% of the trees of my 43 acres are Locust and thinking about getting a mill and using the Locust for timbers and framing. Any thoughts? Thanks
I’ve never even seen one! But if you have access to logs, you can go wrong with a mill. Even if you don’t end up using it like you’re hoping, they do a great job of holding their value.
James Morgan, I just learned something this evening also. I have never heard of a Black Locust. There are three that grow here, Yellow Locust, Honey Locust, and Scrub Locust, Scrub Locust is often the most popular seedling for the strip mines, and water shed control for excavated areas. Not much good for any lumber, as its more of a less costly variety. You can use it tho, when its dry as firewood. Thank you for posting James
@@markw.mullins2208 makes great fence posts
@@karenvonborstel2707 Old timers around here used to say Black Locust will last 2 years longer than stone.
As always, great videos when showing your saw in use. The leading end of that log you said was 17 by 19 in, what was the trailing end of that logs dimension before cutting it? I have seen these sawmills come with single and double posts on the mill heads. Do you have any issues with it being a single post?
Not at all. The saw cuts very square.
I've had both Timberking and now a Woodmizer LT 40 hyd with the 35 hp kohler. Both are good mills, but the deck hydraulics on the Woodmizer are far stronger and the logs stops on the Woodmizer are far more beefier. The cantilever head on the woodmizer, along with the angled deck, make changing blades, unloading and leveling far easier. My TK was a 1600, not their "top of the line" mill by a long shot. But the LT 40 is a giant step up in cutting speed and quality of cut from the 1600. For an extra 3k, the quality is worth the difference.
Hey bud do you recommend taking the top piece off after every cut?
On short lumber it’s fine but on longer stuff I like to leave as much on as possible to keep the wood being cut from moving.
How many other sawmills did you look at before you bought this sawmill? The WoodlandMi.. 130Max
My first mill was a Woodland Mills HM 126. I fabricated my own siding jig that works with the hydraulic log clamp. I demonstrate it in my very first video.
It has been designed to cut shingles and siding without purchasing any attachments
How many logs can you saw before you have to change/sharpen your blades?
It really depends on what kind of wood I’m sawing. Wood-Mizer recommends every two hours of sawing.
I usually change every 300/MBF or sooner but I sharpen all my own blades so less time sharpening is more money.
Setting up my LT15W x32 this weekend/ Sandpoint Id.
Busy ??? 😂
I’m on my way!
What was the blower you showed a couple of weeks ago?
If you’re talking about my cordless blower it’s an M18 Milwaukee. If it’s a gas powered unit, it’s a Stihl.
No. It was a blower that I had not heard of. They had contacted you about using their product as a comparison to well known brands.
@@johndenny5999
is the link you're looking for I believe. The brand name is Achieforce. Very impressive stuff!
sorry, think link didn't copy...
www.achiforce.com/products/achiforce-cordless-40v-14-brushless-cordless-chainsaw?NWSawyer&
Do you cut 2x6 or
1.5 x 5.5?
Not answering for Northwest Sawyer, but I cut mine using the inch scale, 2x6. So I come out with about a 1 7/8" x 5 7/8" board after it dries 6mo or so. (kerf and drying loss) That works fine for rough buildings such as barns/sheds. For a house wall, I work my stud/plate material up on rainy days in the shop, running one side on a long bed jointer to get a straight edge on one side, the rip on the table saw to 5 1/2" (or 3 1/2" for 2x4). I leave the 2" thickness alone, since it only makes the stud stronger, and the space lost in the stud cavity makes no difference.
For rafters and floor joists, I generally leave the lumber as is. Trick to working with rough lumber is to set the varying widths "down"....in the case of rafters, you keep the top plane the same for a smooth roof, and any variance in board width goes to the attic side where it doesn't matter. In the case of floor joists (crawl space), the ends sometimes have to be 'carved' slightly on the ends where they meet the mud sill plate. Lot of tricks to working with rough lumber.
I cut just over 1.5x5.5
You won't find any 2 x stock at home depot that is that clear.
buck
You no longer have a like or not like button????????????????????????????
I’m seeing them on my end? Like only, of course 👍😬