Jerry, What a process !!!!, you lost me at the dongle fangle oojamaflip, lol, man you are a sucker for punishment but as ever you do what you have to in getting the job done. My brother is a whizz on this stuff and likes to explain it to me which usually leaves me glazed eyes after 10 minutes when he talks about rastering ?. Thanks for showing the process, it is as you say quite involved. Great video and of great value to those people using this type of laser cutting system. Peace and love from Bonny Scotland.
That truss rod cover looks great. Thanks for the instructions on using the laser cutter and the software. That is a lot of work and a bit of a learning curve. I would like to get one of those laser cutters.
Jerry, you make it look easy to do inlay work using the laser cutter. FYI, at 26:20 you can see that there is an Align section on the right hand side. Those icons will let you adjust the position of the "JJ" based on the image of the icon. Specifically there are icons you can click to automatically place the "JJ" in the center horizontally and center vertically. Instead of cutting the JJ then pasting it back in again later you could have right clicked it, gone to object properties then clicked the box beside "Lock" to prevent it being changed while you did some other things. Just remember to unlock it later.
Jerry , being a longtime user of photoshop, I was able to follow your process to a tee. It looks like that laser company bought a license to use Adobe’s technology it is so similar! I see your using a Mac. That is the best technology for graphic art applications. But you can buy alignment pins and a precision cutter which will allow you to place your workpiece back in the machine perfectly aligned time after time. You mount the pins on your platin. Then you punch the registration holes in your workpiece and set it on the pins. For different size applications you can just tape or hot glue the pins which have thin little base. We used to use Condit pin registration systems for making dye transfer prints in the lab, but I don’t know if they are still around.
How did you get inkscape to display the big pop up text window. I saw how you clicked the text icon at the top of the screen but I can't see that icon on my standard installation of inkscape.
Do yourself a favor, and Upgrade the mirrors and lens and nozzle with a cheap yet still 50 times better Cloudray K Series Laser Head Set with Lens Mirror set, it will improve the cutting and engraving power dramatically, Also what I did to all the K40 I owned, is to replace the controller with a Cheap Arduino Uno and a CNC Shield running GRBL for laser cutters, This will allow you to unlock the potential of the cutter by letting you use software such as Lightburn... the upgrade is not all that complicated to do, Just to give you an idea, with my K40 modded, I can cut 8mm thick maple at 75% power and at 8MMS, you give it a try on yours and let me know how it went for you, BTW typically the upgrades cost around 150$ dollars plus your time to install and realign the mirrors... here is a short video of one I modded a few years ago,that was not fully tuned but nonetheless it was day and night from its original form, ruclips.net/video/iL3WUZiQriE/видео.html and here are useful 3d printed parts to help with the upgrade, www.thingiverse.com/thing:4067385
hey jerry pick you up a pair of watch makers tweezers off amazon they would help with small things like that a ton
Jerry, What a process !!!!, you lost me at the dongle fangle oojamaflip, lol, man you are a sucker for punishment but as ever you do what you have to in getting the job done. My brother is a whizz on this stuff and likes to explain it to me which usually leaves me glazed eyes after 10 minutes when he talks about rastering ?. Thanks for showing the process, it is as you say quite involved. Great video and of great value to those people using this type of laser cutting system. Peace and love from Bonny Scotland.
That truss rod cover looks great. Thanks for the instructions on using the laser cutter and the software. That is a lot of work and a bit of a learning curve. I would like to get one of those laser cutters.
That was Beautiful Jerry.....
that's a class act, getting it done. JJ would love it.
amazing work jerry........looks perfect!!!
RIP, J.J. Nice work, very informative, Jerry.
Came out great, very nice of you 👍🏻👍🏻
God bless you Rosameister! You’re the best!
Pretty cool.
Wonderful inlay and very toutching
Thanks for sharing - shows what care and thought appropriately applied can achieve :-) I'm sure JJ's family will be delighted
😄i got lost while you was doing all of that....boy i am really a digital illiterate
Jerry, you make it look easy to do inlay work using the laser cutter. FYI, at 26:20 you can see that there is an Align section on the right hand side. Those icons will let you adjust the position of the "JJ" based on the image of the icon. Specifically there are icons you can click to automatically place the "JJ" in the center horizontally and center vertically. Instead of cutting the JJ then pasting it back in again later you could have right clicked it, gone to object properties then clicked the box beside "Lock" to prevent it being changed while you did some other things. Just remember to unlock it later.
Great result, Jerry. 👍
Great lesson
i'm an analogue man stuck in a digital world !
Jerry, you are a true inspiration!
Man what a job.. looks amazing... thanks for show your technique and how you are using your tools... great video..
What a lovely gesture to make that truss rod cover free for the guys family. Nice work Jerry. Best wishes from England.
Nice work Jerry 👍
You're a good man Jerry Rosa. As if there were any doubt!
Excellent!! A nice job and an even finer gesture!!
Jerry , being a longtime user of photoshop, I was able to follow your process to a tee. It looks like that laser company bought a license to use Adobe’s technology it is so similar! I see your using a Mac. That is the best technology for graphic art applications. But you can buy alignment pins and a precision cutter which will allow you to place your workpiece back in the machine perfectly aligned time after time. You mount the pins on your platin. Then you punch the registration holes in your workpiece and set it on the pins. For different size applications you can just tape or hot glue the pins which have thin little base. We used to use Condit pin registration systems for making dye transfer prints in the lab, but I don’t know if they are still around.
How did you get inkscape to display the big pop up text window. I saw how you clicked the text icon at the top of the screen but I can't see that icon on my standard installation of inkscape.
That turned out really well!
I love the sound of this one.
You did an awesome job with the JJ & Truss rod cover. But why didn't you cut the cavity out in the factory truss rod cover? Stay well & safe.
plastic
Do yourself a favor, and Upgrade the mirrors and lens and nozzle with a cheap yet still 50 times better Cloudray K Series Laser Head Set with Lens Mirror set, it will improve the cutting and engraving power dramatically, Also what I did to all the K40 I owned, is to replace the controller with a Cheap Arduino Uno and a CNC Shield running GRBL for laser cutters, This will allow you to unlock the potential of the cutter by letting you use software such as Lightburn... the upgrade is not all that complicated to do, Just to give you an idea, with my K40 modded, I can cut 8mm thick maple at 75% power and at 8MMS, you give it a try on yours and let me know how it went for you, BTW typically the upgrades cost around 150$ dollars plus your time to install and realign the mirrors... here is a short video of one I modded a few years ago,that was not fully tuned but nonetheless it was day and night from its original form, ruclips.net/video/iL3WUZiQriE/видео.html and here are useful 3d printed parts to help with the upgrade, www.thingiverse.com/thing:4067385