Well thank you, sometimes a demonstration really helps. I know for me I like to see things work..😀👍🏼 And thanks for subbing and welcome to the group..👊🏼😀
Great explanation! This is what I would need to do so that I understand solar panels, series, and parallel better. I like how you quizzed the viewer. I just subscribed. Thank you!
Hi Johnny Great video, it took away a seemingly complicated process of how to configure solar panels. This video simplified all that and made it a straightforward process of the use of parallel…series….and a combination of both. Thanks again, well done 👍 👍
Thanks smoke. I tried to keep it super simple. And sometimes demonstrations really help. Of course the user will have to do some basic math, but at least this gets them started.
Agree, that was a huge help/ty! That said, I think people/newbies would be less confused if panels came with red & black color-coded wiring (ie/eg) like automotive battery cables.
@@__WJK__ that’s a really great idea…the red and black wires to help indicate the + wire and the - wire on solar panels, that would definitely help when assembling a multiple number of solar panels in whatever configuration you need….Parallel….Series or a combination of both.
Thank you for this video, I'm currently building up a solar & wind turbine set up for my off grid 35fx12ft static and your knowledge will certainly keep me right. Again I can't thank you enough as I've been reading books but haven't really understood them and I've my two mc4 y-branches and extra mc4 male and female connectors.
@JOHNNY'S WEEKENDS , great video and excellent comparisons of the different configurations. I have 2 DP + 4 EB's. I was advised by EcoFlow I can exceed the amperage as high as I want since amps are "Pulled" while volts are "pushed". Think of it like when you plug in your 100 watt table light into a 15 amp receptacle in your house. The table lamp only "pulls" the amps it needs to function even though the breaker is capable of outputting 15 amps before it trips. My current solar arrays (2 arrays of 9 panels each connected 3S3P) produce 3,240 watts each in ideal conditions with amperage at 34.4 amps. I increased my panel capacity because it helps me to still get the 1,600 watt maximum the DP will take in (pull) even under cloudy or less than ideal conditions. EcoFlow advised me there is NO issues with exceeding amperage. The critical limitation is the 150 volts. 150 volts must NOT be exceeded as they advised it will fry the DP controller. As you have pointed out, some EF users have exceeded the 150 volts and had no issues but EF is adamant that 150 volts should not be exceeded. Another important factor to mention is operating temperature as all panels specification values are derived at 25 C. As I am in colder climate in Canada, I had to take the temperature coefficient of the panels into consideration. Some solar panel users may not be aware that the voltage output of their panels will increase as the temperature of the panel drops which could inadvertently cause a user to exceed the 150 volts limit. My current arrays are safe to miss 58.5 C.
Exactly going over in amps is ok but volts is not. I don’t know how many over you can go before you pop something lol. But amp wide If wired right you should never get up to far above rated. Like I mentioned earlier I don’t know if I would wanna push 50 amps in for no reason even then I know it will only pull what’s needed, it seems there is still potential for heat build up and who knows when things will melt because I do t think the wire on the other side is that big along with soldier points
Let me know if this video helped you out. Sorry about part of the audio, my good microphone broke 😂. Branch connectors seen in video: amzn.to/3T6HhBy Renogy Branch connector: amzn.to/3UuihVI Everything ECOFLOW Discounts!!!! PROMO CODE: JOHNNYSWD modernhouseusa.com/collections/delta-series FULL SOLAR KITS & ECOFLOW , BUNDLE AND SAVE!!! shopsolarkits.com/1134 Branch connectors seen in video: amzn.to/3T6HhBy
The connectors that come on the HF panels can connect into parallel or series. So that’s why people buy adapters or switch to the mc4. I have a tutorial on how to switch those as well. It’s easy 😀👍🏼
Here is a connector kit I recommend to several people amzn.to/3Et8hqx And here is a short tutorial to switch to a mc4…ruclips.net/video/CFgRCBzquz4/видео.html Let me know if you have questions 😀👍🏼
Thanks! Helpful, especially when you addressed the trade-off on wire size when amperage goes up, right at the end. Just to make sure I understand, panel by panel micro inverters don’t make sense for off-grid installs because batteries are needed to store the power and batteries need DC input?
Correct, micro inverters add a lot of money to a install, but in the end you don’t need a big inverter at the main termination. But still it’s not really meant for the offgrid since you want Dc to go to the controller to pump power to the batteries.
Series parallel is always the best, just make sure you have your MPPT CHARGE CONTROLLER to control your volts, even if your battery is a 12v....Nice one bro, thanks👍
Great video! Newbie question please: I live in a shady residential area ( I mean that literally _not_ metaphorically), I have an off grid setup in my shed. We get lots of sun and have a westerly aspect, but I need to move my 3 panels around the garden to keep them in the sun. Initially I had them mounted on the shed roof, and they easily powered my power tools and kept my motorbike battery topped up over the Pandemic. Now with the huge hike in energy prices (at least here in the UK) I have found myself syphoning off the power more and more for stuff in the house, i.e my home-office. In the summer I was easily doing all of the aforementioned, plus my home office, but now in winter there is less daylight and much more shade, meaning I have to have them floor mounted and move them around.. My question is: *What is the best configuration for 3 X 100 W panels where one has to frequently move them to avoid shading?* Many thanks.
Well I don’t know what you are plugging your solar into so no clue how many volts you can go. I would see about adding one more 100 watt panel like you have. Then turn them into suitcases like I did in one my last videos. Wayyyyy easier to move around 4 panels because two are in each hand like a suitcase. Then I would wire them in series and then parallel them just like in the video. Unfortunately in the winter dealing with less solar hours and the sun low in the sky makes it tougher for everyone trying to take advantage of the suns rays. You could have two setups maybe one for the first part of the day and one for the second and just switch the wires or have on a second controller. Just throwing ideas
@jaceunb1 well think of it this way…. How long does ice on the ground last…?? If it’s frozen outside well until the temp warms up. Considering most airliners fly at 20-35,000 feet. This temps are about -10F -40F so ice particles could float around for hours up there till they disperse from winds.
I think It is very helpful for my porpouse: I have two small panels I wondered how to Connect to one solar light, if I understood: I could use two different facing, one south and the other west, while in parallel as if It was a two String system?
No not at all. Let’s just take the Harbor freight panel for example. It’s a 100 watts 17-19 volt out put 5.5 amps. You technically can use that as a single panel or even parallel it like in the video and double the amps and not the volts. It’s ok to go over the amps some, but not volts. So if paralleling those two panels that’s now only about 10 amps in the best conditions. Make sense ?
Quick question. The data sheet for the Delta Pro says the max amperage input is 15a, you used 20a, does that not damage the unit? I’d like to series parallel my set up but was worried about the amperage.
Correct ! Most of all these power stations will hold up to 15 amps. But the controllers inside like most others can deal with over amperage. It will basically just waist it. But they do not like over voltage. To high a voltage is what will damage these and other types of solar controllers and more. So pay attention to volts and don’t get to close because as temps change voltage can as well. But amps if your over no problem. Now I wouldn’t pump 50 amps into it lol. But most never get there with a series parallel setup.
@@johnnysweekends So to a point the speed of the current into the controller doesn’t matter so long as you don’t exceed the potential capacity of the controller. Good to know, thanks. 👍🏻 One more question if you don’t mind. You said excess amps would be wasted but also said you wouldn’t pump 50a into it. At what point would excess amperage become dangerous? Rated at 15a would it be safe to double that up to 30a as opposed to the 20a you used?
Honestly I don’t know how far on amps you can go. Obviously you wanna stay with in the limits when you can. I know I have done close to 30 amps as a test but amps create a lot of heat, and I don’t know how the controller does at dissipating all of it. So why push it. Hence I wouldn’t want to do 50 amps because even though amperage doesn’t seem to be a big deal that’s still alot of power and heat. I assume the controller would just shut off but why change it. I do know people have ran over the voltage as well for several hours and no damage was done but how long will that last. One guy was running about 160 for a few hours and it didn’t shut off..😳 I would have assumed the controller would have clicked off and flashed a code. So that’s the main reason is the heat build with higher amps.
The one thing that I didn't see you account for is that those small panels probably don't have bypass diodes. Most current full size panels have bypass diodes to prevent shading on part of, or shading for an entire panel from bringing down the entire series.
I guess your panels don’t have any bypass diodes. If they did, the series connection and series/parallel would have better performance. You should do your video again showing the benefit and importance of bypass diodes. Showing real results, like you did, is very powerful.
These are older more simplified verses the newer larger panels of today. Especially since most of the newer ones are basically to panels stuck together. So shade performance is way better
@@johnnysweekends yeah but let's be honest, new one with reputable brand have like 3 diode in them :x , not saying ur wrong there, but i think that talking about bypass dyode in this case was a must ^^, just my 2 cent :p
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
THIS is by far the best video explaining it in detail..as far myself it's pretty much idiot proof even for me! Thank you sir! A new subscriber👍
Well thank you, sometimes a demonstration really helps. I know for me I like to see things work..😀👍🏼
And thanks for subbing and welcome to the group..👊🏼😀
I had a hard time trying to figure this out , but you made as clear as a clear blue sky. Perfect as usual.
Thank you..!! Glad it helped…😀👍🏼
Great explanation! This is what I would need to do so that I understand solar panels, series, and parallel better. I like how you quizzed the viewer. I just subscribed. Thank you!
Hi Johnny
Great video, it took away a seemingly complicated process of how to configure solar panels. This video simplified all that and made it a straightforward process of the use of parallel…series….and a combination of both.
Thanks again, well done 👍 👍
Thanks smoke. I tried to keep it super simple. And sometimes demonstrations really help.
Of course the user will have to do some basic math, but at least this gets them started.
Agree, that was a huge help/ty! That said, I think people/newbies would be less confused if panels came with red & black color-coded wiring (ie/eg) like automotive battery cables.
@@__WJK__ that’s a really great idea…the red and black wires to help indicate the + wire and the - wire on solar panels, that would definitely help when assembling a multiple number of solar panels in whatever configuration you need….Parallel….Series or a combination of both.
You’re welcome and yes a color coding like normal DC wiring would be great verses the little stickers the wrap around the wire 😂👍🏼
Excellent explanations and demonstration! Thank you.
Glad it helped 😀👍🏼
Thank you for this video, I'm currently building up a solar & wind turbine set up for my off grid 35fx12ft static and your knowledge will certainly keep me right.
Again I can't thank you enough as I've been reading books but haven't really understood them and I've my two mc4 y-branches and extra mc4 male and female connectors.
Awesome glad this helped out. It’s a little confusing at first but gets easier.
@JOHNNY'S WEEKENDS , great video and excellent comparisons of the different configurations.
I have 2 DP + 4 EB's. I was advised by EcoFlow I can exceed the amperage as high as I want since amps are "Pulled" while volts are "pushed". Think of it like when you plug in your 100 watt table light into a 15 amp receptacle in your house. The table lamp only "pulls" the amps it needs to function even though the breaker is capable of outputting 15 amps before it trips.
My current solar arrays (2 arrays of 9 panels each connected 3S3P) produce 3,240 watts each in ideal conditions with amperage at 34.4 amps. I increased my panel capacity because it helps me to still get the 1,600 watt maximum the DP will take in (pull) even under cloudy or less than ideal conditions.
EcoFlow advised me there is NO issues with exceeding amperage. The critical limitation is the 150 volts. 150 volts must NOT be exceeded as they advised it will fry the DP controller.
As you have pointed out, some EF users have exceeded the 150 volts and had no issues but EF is adamant that 150 volts should not be exceeded.
Another important factor to mention is operating temperature as all panels specification values are derived at 25 C.
As I am in colder climate in Canada, I had to take the temperature coefficient of the panels into consideration. Some solar panel users may not be aware that the voltage output of their panels will increase as the temperature of the panel drops which could inadvertently cause a user to exceed the 150 volts limit. My current arrays are safe to miss 58.5 C.
Exactly going over in amps is ok but volts is not. I don’t know how many over you can go before you pop something lol.
But amp wide If wired right you should never get up to far above rated. Like I mentioned earlier I don’t know if I would wanna push 50 amps in for no reason even then I know it will only pull what’s needed, it seems there is still potential for heat build up and who knows when things will melt because I do t think the wire on the other side is that big along with soldier points
excellent solar setup information, well done
Thank you
Let me know if this video helped you out. Sorry about part of the audio, my good microphone broke 😂.
Branch connectors seen in video: amzn.to/3T6HhBy
Renogy Branch connector: amzn.to/3UuihVI
Everything ECOFLOW Discounts!!!!
PROMO CODE: JOHNNYSWD modernhouseusa.com/collections/delta-series
FULL SOLAR KITS & ECOFLOW , BUNDLE AND SAVE!!!
shopsolarkits.com/1134 Branch connectors seen in video: amzn.to/3T6HhBy
The connectors that come on the HF panels can connect into parallel or series.
So that’s why people buy adapters or switch to the mc4.
I have a tutorial on how to switch those as well. It’s easy 😀👍🏼
Here is a connector kit I recommend to several people amzn.to/3Et8hqx
And here is a short tutorial to switch to a mc4…ruclips.net/video/CFgRCBzquz4/видео.html
Let me know if you have questions 😀👍🏼
Thanks! Helpful, especially when you addressed the trade-off on wire size when amperage goes up, right at the end. Just to make sure I understand, panel by panel micro inverters don’t make sense for off-grid installs because batteries are needed to store the power and batteries need DC input?
Correct, micro inverters add a lot of money to a install, but in the end you don’t need a big inverter at the main termination. But still it’s not really meant for the offgrid since you want Dc to go to the controller to pump power to the batteries.
Series parallel is always the best, just make sure you have your MPPT CHARGE CONTROLLER to control your volts, even if your battery is a 12v....Nice one bro, thanks👍
Very helpful video and nice examples!! Thanks :-)
You’re welcome hope it helps and thanks for stopping by 😀👍🏼👊🏼
Great video!
Newbie question please:
I live in a shady residential area ( I mean that literally _not_ metaphorically), I have an off grid setup in my shed. We get lots of sun and have a westerly aspect, but I need to move my 3 panels around the garden to keep them in the sun.
Initially I had them mounted on the shed roof, and they easily powered my power tools and kept my motorbike battery topped up over the Pandemic. Now with the huge hike in energy prices (at least here in the UK) I have found myself syphoning off the power more and more for stuff in the house, i.e my home-office.
In the summer I was easily doing all of the aforementioned, plus my home office, but now in winter there is less daylight and much more shade, meaning I have to have them floor mounted and move them around.. My question is: *What is the best configuration for 3 X 100 W panels where one has to frequently move them to avoid shading?*
Many thanks.
Well I don’t know what you are plugging your solar into so no clue how many volts you can go.
I would see about adding one more 100 watt panel like you have. Then turn them into suitcases like I did in one my last videos. Wayyyyy easier to move around 4 panels because two are in each hand like a suitcase. Then I would wire them in series and then parallel them just like in the video.
Unfortunately in the winter dealing with less solar hours and the sun low in the sky makes it tougher for everyone trying to take advantage of the suns rays. You could have two setups maybe one for the first part of the day and one for the second and just switch the wires or have on a second controller.
Just throwing ideas
yeah, that "vapor" trail always ruins a clear sky when it spreads out into a beautiful hazy mess! wonderful ..
How does water Vapor stay in the sky for so long?
@jaceunb1 well think of it this way…. How long does ice on the ground last…?? If it’s frozen outside well until the temp warms up. Considering most airliners fly at 20-35,000 feet. This temps are about -10F -40F so ice particles could float around for hours up there till they disperse from winds.
It usually has chemicals in it too that help it linger.
Very interesting demonstration. Thanks 👍
You’re welcome hope it helped… 😀👍🏼👊🏼
Sir, I have 4 panels, can I use this series/parallel connection for both 12v and 24v system?
Yes!!
Bypassing the low 1600W solar input limit over DC on the Delta Pro by using an inverter to provide extra solar over AC. Nice!
Dude this is GOOD stuff!! Thank you
You’re welcome 😀👍🏼👊🏼
I think It is very helpful for my porpouse: I have two small panels I wondered how to Connect to one solar light, if I understood: I could use two different facing, one south and the other west, while in parallel as if It was a two String system?
Exactly that would work great that way when one stops outputting power the west panel will take over..👍🏼
How would this test apply to smaller power supply units
The same just on a smaller scale. So if using a really small power station just make sure not to go over the voltage.
@@johnnysweekends I have a 300 watt unit that says not to go over 6A and 24V so do that reduce me to just a 50W panel?
No not at all.
Let’s just take the Harbor freight panel for example.
It’s a 100 watts
17-19 volt out put
5.5 amps.
You technically can use that as a single panel or even parallel it like in the video and double the amps and not the volts.
It’s ok to go over the amps some, but not volts. So if paralleling those two panels that’s now only about 10 amps in the best conditions.
Make sense ?
Awesome video
Thank you hope it helped 😀👍🏼
Quick question. The data sheet for the Delta Pro says the max amperage input is 15a, you used 20a, does that not damage the unit? I’d like to series parallel my set up but was worried about the amperage.
Correct ! Most of all these power stations will hold up to 15 amps. But the controllers inside like most others can deal with over amperage. It will basically just waist it. But they do not like over voltage. To high a voltage is what will damage these and other types of solar controllers and more.
So pay attention to volts and don’t get to close because as temps change voltage can as well. But amps if your over no problem.
Now I wouldn’t pump 50 amps into it lol.
But most never get there with a series parallel setup.
@@johnnysweekends So to a point the speed of the current into the controller doesn’t matter so long as you don’t exceed the potential capacity of the controller. Good to know, thanks. 👍🏻
One more question if you don’t mind. You said excess amps would be wasted but also said you wouldn’t pump 50a into it. At what point would excess amperage become dangerous? Rated at 15a would it be safe to double that up to 30a as opposed to the 20a you used?
Honestly I don’t know how far on amps you can go. Obviously you wanna stay with in the limits when you can. I know I have done close to 30 amps as a test but amps create a lot of heat, and I don’t know how the controller does at dissipating all of it. So why push it. Hence I wouldn’t want to do 50 amps because even though amperage doesn’t seem to be a big deal that’s still alot of power and heat. I assume the controller would just shut off but why change it.
I do know people have ran over the voltage as well for several hours and no damage was done but how long will that last. One guy was running about 160 for a few hours and it didn’t shut off..😳
I would have assumed the controller would have clicked off and flashed a code.
So that’s the main reason is the heat build with higher amps.
@@johnnysweekends Thank again mate, much appreciated. 👍🏻
No problem 👍🏼😀
The one thing that I didn't see you account for is that those small panels probably don't have bypass diodes. Most current full size panels have bypass diodes to prevent shading on part of, or shading for an entire panel from bringing down the entire series.
While this is true, this is more for beginners so, keeping things simpler helps not to confuse. 👍🏼
well this answerd my question I posted that I will delete. I wondered why only covering a small piece of the panel would prevent them from producing.
Thanks, man! 👍🏼👍🏼
👍🏼😀
Can you series/ parallel 6 panels?
Yes 3 in series and both sets parallel in.
Good video!
Hallo
K series connection the volt goes up the amp stay same what about the wards what happen there please
He
Great video
Thank you 👍🏼😀
damn chemtrails with good content
I guess your panels don’t have any bypass diodes. If they did, the series connection and series/parallel would have better performance. You should do your video again showing the benefit and importance of bypass diodes. Showing real results, like you did, is very powerful.
These are older more simplified verses the newer larger panels of today. Especially since most of the newer ones are basically to panels stuck together. So shade performance is way better
Thanks for that great explanation but you didn’t test all four in series.
Cheers
I did it’s the first test, but I also explained it as well.
Where the heck were you a week ago?!
Ummm , well, 🤔 🤔 🤔🤔 I was here 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️ 😂😁
this is not how it work on new solar panel, they got diode to prevent this
Not all of them and even some stop out put when a 1/3 is covered. Depends on the model, size, and more.
@@johnnysweekends yeah but let's be honest, new one with reputable brand have like 3 diode in them :x , not saying ur wrong there, but i think that talking about bypass dyode in this case was a must ^^, just my 2 cent :p