First of all, thank you for taking the time to making this video! I used the "bread method" and the spindle shaft itself as a pushing pin, to remove the needle bearing, which worked well. I did scratch the shaft surface a little, but since the needle bearing was being replaced with 2 ball bearings, that didn't really matter. I should not have used the shaft as a tool, but rather an 8mm drift punch or similar. What I do have to say though, is the main spindle has less play than before, but it is definitly still has some play. I replaced the lower bearing with a nice SKF bearing (even though I think the origional bearing was not the problem), but for the top bearings I only found something from "ZEN" in the size 8x12x3.5mm, and nothing from SKF or another "proper" brand. However, I sort of doubt higher quality bearings on top would have made much difference, since the bearings for the shaft, by design, can't be properly preloaded against eachother. There will aways be play, no matter what quality bearings you use. The PBD 40 has a lot going for it, especially for the price, but it will never be a milling machine. :)
Did this job yesterday, thank You so much for the video, not sure would have dared to do this otherwise. I even had the same paper roll ha haa...:) Chuck removal vas very easy, new chuck will arrive next week. Rest of the job...not that easy( for me) it took many hours to get it done, but video was helfull. I changed(like here)also the 6002 bearing to better quality, but actually don't think that makes such a big different. The big bart of the play is coming from the needle bearing, now replaced with 2 X 3,5 high roller bearings. Removing the needle bearing is pretty easy using the "bread" technique. I did not have suitable bread at home(only full grain) so used modeling clay together with a 8mm shaft. First time i did this, but it worked! Recommend, for anyone doing this, to in advance make suitable tool for removing and installing the 6002 bearing on the shaft. Did not hav this so needed to improvise.
Yes the needle bearing is the big offender here but once in, considering the work to get in, replacing the 6002 by some quality skf bearing is worth the cost for the peace of mind. I wish I knew of the bread technique at the time but live and learn, I'll know if for next time. As for the time it takes, it took me hours too, including finding the bearings and figuring it out along the way. The video makes it look "easy" and "fast" but it was neither and I probably had to cut 10 hours of it.
@@DebrouilleToi Yes, can agree, weekend project, would hav needed a third hand :) By the way, the chuck change was very easy, much better now. Measured free turning run-out maybe 3 thousands only. But if applying pressure from side, obviously more. Ordinary 6002, even high quality, usually have som play. I found one 6002, a Tohatsu :) for outboard propeller shaft, that has practically zero play, but that is an open bearing so as such not workable. But probably a milling machine 6002( if any such) would be optimal. I will next attempt to stiffen the construction a bit by adding a glide bearing, but lets see, can be a while before doing that. The key with this machine i have learned, for some accuracy, is preparation( pre drilling with smaller holes), and tak it slow, very slow. Then there is better chance for accurate hole in metal.
Hoy me he cambiado los dos rodamientos pequeños,todo ha ido bien...ya no tengo juego en el eje.El único problema que tengo es que la máquina en el panel no enseña las revoluciones y arranca directamente en velocidad alta y a los 6-7 segundos se para sola.Tienes alguna idea de que puede ser? He comprobado los cables del panel y están bien conectados...lo único que me viene en la mente que el rotor este demasiado pa dentro y el tacómetro que está arriba no leea las revoluciones. Alguna idea? Gracias por el vídeo.
@ Robert Ledoux :tout dépend de la gamme maintenant beaucoup de machines sont faites en Chine, donc à bas coût , pour alors , il ne faut pas s'étonner d'avoir des surprises. Ce n'est plus ce que c'était avant! (j'ai l'impression d'être un vieux qui parle ) .
Le problème c'est qu'il n'y a pas de gamme, c'est 100€ pour du lidl, 300€ pour celle la et 5000€ pour du pro. Les options ne sont pas nombreuses, surtout si l'on veut se dispenser des courroies. J'aurai été ravi de payer 100€ de plus pour un guidage mieux conçu mais ce n'est pas une option.
Before replacing the large blue bearing, try replacing the needle bearing. If the play is jagged and makes a ”ratatata” sound when you wiggle it the issue is the needle bearing in the top of the housing.
Might as well replace both while you're in there since everything has to come out to get to the needle bearings which I replaced with 2 small ball bearings.
Bonjour. Je me suis lancé dans la même aventure que toi, à savoir le remplacement des roulements de la broche de cette machine. C'est marrant parce que j'ai eu les mêmes misères que toi, les fils qui gênent, l'arbre moteur qui est tombé sur mes godasses (j'espère ne pas avoir cassé la tachy) et ce bon sang de petit roulement à aiguille que je me suis aussi résolu à extraire par l'arrière après avoir essayé de bricoler un extracteur qui n'a jamais fonctionné. Bon, moi, j'ai fait deux trous... Le premier que j'ai fait étant trop vers l'extérieur. J'ai réussi à remonter tout ça... C'est un peu la misère, surtout la pièce qui sert à changer la vitesse, mais la partie mécanique, ça parait ok. Maintenant, il me reste à essayer de remonter les carters moteurs et visiblement, c'est pas gagné ! Je fais une pause en regardant des vidéos youtube et la tienne tombe à pic, car moi, j'ai démonté plein de trucs: les lasers, les petites lampes, la plaque verticale qui, je suppose, doit servir à indiquer à l'électronique la position du bloc, le capteur en bas de la broche... ça fait un gros plat de spaghettis et je ne suis pas certains de ne pas me prendre une vieille rage et que la machine finisse à la poubelle !!! Du coup, il me faut prendre une grande respiration et attaquer ça quand la zénitude sera revenue (demain, après demain... On verra) . Merci pour ta vidéo. Si tu as d'autres conseils à me donner, je suis preneur... :) Bon journée. A+
Someone in the comments on the second part of this video recommended the bread method (no typo). You can find videos on it, I've never tried it yet. As for the pilot hole, its not here by default, one has to drill it to have it. The bread method would avoid the need to drill the hole so you're probably better off trying that.
Nice video man! I've already order a NSK 6002 RS bearing for mine but the needle bearing code in mine is too blury to be read. Do you remember what bearing you bought to replace yours? Cheers
Thanks, I do not have a code for those needle bearings but I have their size : 8mmx12mmx3.5mm. If you're in the imperial part of the world, you may need to find a specialist shop to buy metric needle bearings but they must exist somewhere (mm is milimeters).
Cheers mate! So, I received the replacement needle bearing today (HK0808 - SKF), but unfortunately has even more play than the original bearing... I'm surprised as SKF bearings are great... Do you happen to recall what brand of bearings you've used in yours to replace the small one? If I can't get a needle bearing that will fit tightly then I guess I'll need to go for a bushing or a ball bearing instead(?)
Sorry you had issues with skf, seems weird indeed. I went back and looked at my order, i actually ordered 2x MR128-ZZ which are ball bearings that I stacked into the hole. It had completely slipped my mind.
A couple of months ago, I was thinking of buying the same bench drill. Fortunately, before doing so, I went on YT and watched many videos about that drill that "now I can say it" is a piece of crap. I already wasn't sure about that wheel, instead of the classic three-handled star. I went to the seller, tried it, and, adding up the many problems reported in the YT videos, I "ran" out of the store. The chuck is unreliable, this is the opinion of most owners. Merci tout de même pour la vidéo.
Its not a perfect tool but also isn’t priced as perfect tools are abd has served me well despite needing bearings. I get why you ran but what did you run to at that price point that doesn’t require a belt change?
@DebrouilleToi Hi! Thanks for your kind reply. I didn't want to be long-winded, so I didn't mention other things that I didn't really like about that drill. I have owned a Scheppach bench drill, same size, for 20 years. Base made of cast iron, sturdy column, and the standard 4 pulleys with belt. I like it for its stability and weight. I absolutely dislike the important aluminium parts. I only use it for DIY and have never changed the belt because it is still good. I must add that I rarely drill at high speed. My master, when I was an apprentice mechanic, always said that the right speed gave you a better job and preserved the tool. In short, I mainly use the two middle pulleys, the lower one for metals and the upper one for woods. Another great thing about the Scheppach, compared to the PBD, is the chuck. Excuse moi si je te répond en Anglais mais, même si elle çi ce n'est pas ma langue maternelle c'est plus facile 😉
Used RUclips's English auto-translate subtitles which weren't perfect, but good enough to follow. These changes have improved the accuracy of my drill significantly, so many thanks to the original poster.
They're not perfect and I'd love to be able to do a voice over translation but youtube does not offer this option, the only alternative would be to re-upload the complete video in english which is a lot of work so haven't been able to convince myself to do it yet. As for the drill, I'm glad it worked for you as it did for me.
Je théorise et démontre un problème dont ne douterons pas tous les propriétaires de cette perçeuse. C'était une illustration, pas un test de précision.
Bonsoir Sébastien fallait y penser , le coup du trou pour y insérer une pointe ou un chasse je me posais bien la question du comment tu allais faire , Bien vu ! Bravo je pense que l'arrêt sur image est volontaire . je crois toujours que c'est mon ordi qui bug! Bon en espérant que de meilleurs roulements supprimeront le jeu Sûr que faire des trous ovale c'est pas top ! A+
Oui, je fait des arrets sur image pour que l'on puisse voir les points importants sinon ca passe vite en vidéo. Le roulements on grandement amélioré les choses mais hélas ne remplaceront jamais un arbre de mandrin correctement guidé par 2 ou 4 vrais gros roulements. Si j'avais du matériel d'usinage, je m'intéresserait sans doute à reconstruire cette boite de vitesse différemment quitte à devoir modifier le carénage plastique. Faire l'arbre de mandrin traversant et guidé bien droit aurait fait des miracles.
Yeah, google translate isn't great at times. I'm waiting for youtube to allow me translated voicovers so I can record them and be done with captions. Sadly for now they reserve that feature to the big channels.
@@DebrouilleToi Hello. Thanks for the reply. I have this problem with my drill so could you please remind what bearings you used, from where and if you are perfectly happy with the result? Thanks..
Many thanks, very helpful! This is a piece of shit, very disappointing tool regarding accuracy, direct from factory. Now will try to change the bearing and better chuck as also adding a plate to the main tube as seen in some videos.
I wouldn’t go so far as to call it a piece of sh*t but for the price, an effort could’ve been made regarding precision and quality. Sadly these days if you’re not buying uber expensive pro tools, you get shafted.
@@DebrouilleToi You are right, it was a bit harsh saying that. I just had too great expectations. Otherwise the tool is OK, good size and rpm and so on, but the precision(the only reason i bought it originally), was a huge disappointment, so much I stopped using it. I was shocked about the sideways movement in case of some pressure, or trying to drill in a angle, even in wood. The problem is that understood partly same problem also with the heavy cast iron hobby grade bench drills.... But i hav already ordered a new chuck and bearings, and will also do a support collar of aluminium, so lets see then:). I purchased the BAER Drill Chuck, not sure its as good as yours, but it was easy to shop on amazon and should fit, and hopefully better than the original:)
@XSAILOR65 i agree it doesn’t meet expectations but after changing the bearings, its already much better and more useable in steel for me. I would like a higher end chuck and will probably upgrade next time I have a big project with holes…
@@DebrouilleToi Here the chuck type i purchased: Baer ECO1131-2. I don't like much the lock ring system on the original Bosh chuck, it is actually a hand drill chuck.
![Bosch PBD 40 Drill Press First Look [video 597]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/x6C0KYBjxLs/mqdefault.jpg)
First of all, thank you for taking the time to making this video! I used the "bread method" and the spindle shaft itself as a pushing pin, to remove the needle bearing, which worked well. I did scratch the shaft surface a little, but since the needle bearing was being replaced with 2 ball bearings, that didn't really matter. I should not have used the shaft as a tool, but rather an 8mm drift punch or similar. What I do have to say though, is the main spindle has less play than before, but it is definitly still has some play. I replaced the lower bearing with a nice SKF bearing (even though I think the origional bearing was not the problem), but for the top bearings I only found something from "ZEN" in the size 8x12x3.5mm, and nothing from SKF or another "proper" brand. However, I sort of doubt higher quality bearings on top would have made much difference, since the bearings for the shaft, by design, can't be properly preloaded against eachother. There will aways be play, no matter what quality bearings you use. The PBD 40 has a lot going for it, especially for the price, but it will never be a milling machine. :)
Good points and yes, it will never be perfect but it is for me a lot better, even more so when using small drill bits.
Super. Merci beaucoup pour toutes ces infos: cette perceuse m'embête depuis des années avec ce jeu.
Avec plaisir, c'était pareil pour moi jusqu'à ce que j'améliore la situation avec les roulements.
Did this job yesterday, thank You so much for the video, not sure would have dared to do this otherwise. I even had the same paper roll ha haa...:) Chuck removal vas very easy, new chuck will arrive next week. Rest of the job...not that easy( for me) it took many hours to get it done, but video was helfull. I changed(like here)also the 6002 bearing to better quality, but actually don't think that makes such a big different. The big bart of the play is coming from the needle bearing, now replaced with 2 X 3,5 high roller bearings. Removing the needle bearing is pretty easy using the "bread" technique. I did not have suitable bread at home(only full grain) so used modeling clay together with a 8mm shaft. First time i did this, but it worked! Recommend, for anyone doing this, to in advance make suitable tool for removing and installing the 6002 bearing on the shaft. Did not hav this so needed to improvise.
Yes the needle bearing is the big offender here but once in, considering the work to get in, replacing the 6002 by some quality skf bearing is worth the cost for the peace of mind. I wish I knew of the bread technique at the time but live and learn, I'll know if for next time. As for the time it takes, it took me hours too, including finding the bearings and figuring it out along the way. The video makes it look "easy" and "fast" but it was neither and I probably had to cut 10 hours of it.
@@DebrouilleToi Yes, can agree, weekend project, would hav needed a third hand :)
By the way, the chuck change was very easy, much better now. Measured free turning run-out maybe 3 thousands only. But if applying pressure from side, obviously more. Ordinary 6002, even high quality, usually have som play. I found one 6002, a Tohatsu :) for outboard propeller shaft, that has practically zero play, but that is an open bearing so as such not workable. But probably a milling machine 6002( if any such) would be optimal. I will next attempt to stiffen the construction a bit by adding a glide bearing, but lets see, can be a while before doing that. The key with this machine i have learned, for some accuracy, is preparation( pre drilling with smaller holes), and tak it slow, very slow. Then there is better chance for accurate hole in metal.
Just replaced the needle roller bearing on mine for 2 ball bearing on my bpd40. Zero movement on shaft. Thanks for your help.
Good to know and glad I could help.
Hoy me he cambiado los dos rodamientos pequeños,todo ha ido bien...ya no tengo juego en el eje.El único problema que tengo es que la máquina en el panel no enseña las revoluciones y arranca directamente en velocidad alta y a los 6-7 segundos se para sola.Tienes alguna idea de que puede ser? He comprobado los cables del panel y están bien conectados...lo único que me viene en la mente que el rotor este demasiado pa dentro y el tacómetro que está arriba no leea las revoluciones.
Alguna idea? Gracias por el vídeo.
Bonjour Seb, je l’avais oublié cette perceuse à colonne lol !! C’est quand même regrettable de voir un jeu comme ça sur une machine de marque.
@ Robert Ledoux :tout dépend de la gamme maintenant beaucoup de machines sont faites en Chine, donc à bas coût , pour alors , il ne faut pas s'étonner d'avoir des surprises. Ce n'est plus ce que c'était avant! (j'ai l'impression d'être un vieux qui parle ) .
Le problème c'est qu'il n'y a pas de gamme, c'est 100€ pour du lidl, 300€ pour celle la et 5000€ pour du pro. Les options ne sont pas nombreuses, surtout si l'on veut se dispenser des courroies.
J'aurai été ravi de payer 100€ de plus pour un guidage mieux conçu mais ce n'est pas une option.
Rassure toi moi je viens de fêter mes 77 ans donc tu as encore de la marge lol!
@@robertledoux8318 ok! j'ai encore un peu de marge donc .
@@DebrouilleToi en effet. mais même pour 300, ils auraient pu faire mieux .
A+
Before replacing the large blue bearing, try replacing the needle bearing. If the play is jagged and makes a ”ratatata” sound when you wiggle it the issue is the needle bearing in the top of the housing.
Might as well replace both while you're in there since everything has to come out to get to the needle bearings which I replaced with 2 small ball bearings.
Bonjour. Je me suis lancé dans la même aventure que toi, à savoir le remplacement des roulements de la broche de cette machine. C'est marrant parce que j'ai eu les mêmes misères que toi, les fils qui gênent, l'arbre moteur qui est tombé sur mes godasses (j'espère ne pas avoir cassé la tachy) et ce bon sang de petit roulement à aiguille que je me suis aussi résolu à extraire par l'arrière après avoir essayé de bricoler un extracteur qui n'a jamais fonctionné. Bon, moi, j'ai fait deux trous... Le premier que j'ai fait étant trop vers l'extérieur. J'ai réussi à remonter tout ça... C'est un peu la misère, surtout la pièce qui sert à changer la vitesse, mais la partie mécanique, ça parait ok. Maintenant, il me reste à essayer de remonter les carters moteurs et visiblement, c'est pas gagné ! Je fais une pause en regardant des vidéos youtube et la tienne tombe à pic, car moi, j'ai démonté plein de trucs: les lasers, les petites lampes, la plaque verticale qui, je suppose, doit servir à indiquer à l'électronique la position du bloc, le capteur en bas de la broche... ça fait un gros plat de spaghettis et je ne suis pas certains de ne pas me prendre une vieille rage et que la machine finisse à la poubelle !!! Du coup, il me faut prendre une grande respiration et attaquer ça quand la zénitude sera revenue (demain, après demain... On verra) . Merci pour ta vidéo. Si tu as d'autres conseils à me donner, je suis preneur... :) Bon journée. A+
Le seul conseil c'est de ne pas s'énerver et prendre son temps. C'est pas évident à remonter mais ca devrait bien se passer.
thank you for making this useful video that help us in understanding and removing the manufacturing fault.
I wish you would have made it in daylight.
My pleasure, had to do it anyways. Early days, hadn’t quite figured out lighting or post prod exposure. Sorry
Super, je vais commander ces roulements !! Merci
Avec plaisir.
Hi any tips on removing the bearing?? I don’t have a pilot hole behind
Someone in the comments on the second part of this video recommended the bread method (no typo). You can find videos on it, I've never tried it yet. As for the pilot hole, its not here by default, one has to drill it to have it.
The bread method would avoid the need to drill the hole so you're probably better off trying that.
Nice video man! I've already order a NSK 6002 RS bearing for mine but the needle bearing code in mine is too blury to be read. Do you remember what bearing you bought to replace yours? Cheers
Thanks, I do not have a code for those needle bearings but I have their size : 8mmx12mmx3.5mm. If you're in the imperial part of the world, you may need to find a specialist shop to buy metric needle bearings but they must exist somewhere (mm is milimeters).
Cheers mate! So, I received the replacement needle bearing today (HK0808 - SKF), but unfortunately has even more play than the original bearing... I'm surprised as SKF bearings are great...
Do you happen to recall what brand of bearings you've used in yours to replace the small one?
If I can't get a needle bearing that will fit tightly then I guess I'll need to go for a bushing or a ball bearing instead(?)
Sorry you had issues with skf, seems weird indeed. I went back and looked at my order, i actually ordered 2x MR128-ZZ which are ball bearings that I stacked into the hole. It had completely slipped my mind.
A couple of months ago, I was thinking of buying the same bench drill.
Fortunately, before doing so, I went on YT and watched many videos about that drill that "now I can say it" is a piece of crap.
I already wasn't sure about that wheel, instead of the classic three-handled star. I went to the seller, tried it, and, adding up the many problems reported in the YT videos, I "ran" out of the store.
The chuck is unreliable, this is the opinion of most owners.
Merci tout de même pour la vidéo.
Its not a perfect tool but also isn’t priced as perfect tools are abd has served me well despite needing bearings. I get why you ran but what did you run to at that price point that doesn’t require a belt change?
@DebrouilleToi Hi! Thanks for your kind reply. I didn't want to be long-winded, so I didn't mention other things that I didn't really like about that drill. I have owned a Scheppach bench drill, same size, for 20 years. Base made of cast iron, sturdy column, and the standard 4 pulleys with belt. I like it for its stability and weight. I absolutely dislike the important aluminium parts. I only use it for DIY and have never changed the belt because it is still good. I must add that I rarely drill at high speed. My master, when I was an apprentice mechanic, always said that the right speed gave you a better job and preserved the tool. In short, I mainly use the two middle pulleys, the lower one for metals and the upper one for woods.
Another great thing about the Scheppach, compared to the PBD, is the chuck. Excuse moi si je te répond en Anglais mais, même si elle çi ce n'est pas ma langue maternelle c'est plus facile 😉
Hello, could you tell me the measurements of the "blue" bearring? Inside and outside diameter and how thick it is? Thank you very much.
The bearings needed are in the video description. the blue one is a 6002RS or 6002 2RS. For bearings, the reference gives you the sizes.
Used RUclips's English auto-translate subtitles which weren't perfect, but good enough to follow. These changes have improved the accuracy of my drill significantly, so many thanks to the original poster.
They're not perfect and I'd love to be able to do a voice over translation but youtube does not offer this option, the only alternative would be to re-upload the complete video in english which is a lot of work so haven't been able to convince myself to do it yet.
As for the drill, I'm glad it worked for you as it did for me.
Le test du stilo c'est bien mais si le stylo est pas cylindrique ça dessinera des rond aussi
Bien sur mais je l'utilisait pour illustrer le problème car pas facile de filmer un foret brillant et neuf qui fait la même chose.
comment vous savez que le bic est centré?
Je théorise et démontre un problème dont ne douterons pas tous les propriétaires de cette perçeuse. C'était une illustration, pas un test de précision.
Oui ça marche plutot bien quand tu as des roulements en montage borgne
Bonsoir Sébastien
fallait y penser , le coup du trou pour y insérer une pointe ou un chasse
je me posais bien la question du comment tu allais faire , Bien vu ! Bravo
je pense que l'arrêt sur image est volontaire . je crois toujours que c'est mon ordi qui bug!
Bon en espérant que de meilleurs roulements supprimeront le jeu
Sûr que faire des trous ovale c'est pas top !
A+
Oui, je fait des arrets sur image pour que l'on puisse voir les points importants sinon ca passe vite en vidéo. Le roulements on grandement amélioré les choses mais hélas ne remplaceront jamais un arbre de mandrin correctement guidé par 2 ou 4 vrais gros roulements. Si j'avais du matériel d'usinage, je m'intéresserait sans doute à reconstruire cette boite de vitesse différemment quitte à devoir modifier le carénage plastique.
Faire l'arbre de mandrin traversant et guidé bien droit aurait fait des miracles.
Very useful video, absolutely dreadful RUclips subtitles..
What's gone wrong with them???
Yeah, google translate isn't great at times. I'm waiting for youtube to allow me translated voicovers so I can record them and be done with captions. Sadly for now they reserve that feature to the big channels.
@@DebrouilleToi Hello.
Thanks for the reply.
I have this problem with my drill so could you please remind what bearings you used, from where and if you are perfectly happy with the result?
Thanks..
Tu connais la mie de pain ?
Je l'ai appris depuis cette vidéo grace a un autre utilisateur qui a dit l'avoir utilisé pour sortir les roulements.
Many thanks, very helpful! This is a piece of shit, very disappointing tool regarding accuracy, direct from factory. Now will try to change the bearing and better chuck as also adding a plate to the main tube as seen in some videos.
I wouldn’t go so far as to call it a piece of sh*t but for the price, an effort could’ve been made regarding precision and quality. Sadly these days if you’re not buying uber expensive pro tools, you get shafted.
@@DebrouilleToi You are right, it was a bit harsh saying that. I just had too great expectations. Otherwise the tool is OK, good size and rpm and so on, but the precision(the only reason i bought it originally), was a huge disappointment, so much I stopped using it. I was shocked about the sideways movement in case of some pressure, or trying to drill in a angle, even in wood. The problem is that understood partly same problem also with the heavy cast iron hobby grade bench drills.... But i hav already ordered a new chuck and bearings, and will also do a support collar of aluminium, so lets see then:). I purchased the BAER Drill Chuck, not sure its as good as yours, but it was easy to shop on amazon and should fit, and hopefully better than the original:)
@XSAILOR65 i agree it doesn’t meet expectations but after changing the bearings, its already much better and more useable in steel for me. I would like a higher end chuck and will probably upgrade next time I have a big project with holes…
@@DebrouilleToi Here the chuck type i purchased: Baer ECO1131-2. I don't like much the lock ring system on the original Bosh chuck, it is actually a hand drill chuck.
@XSAILOR65 i’ll look into that chuck, i agree the original one is not great indeed.