Definitely, don't apologize for taking time with the slant six. I have never had one or been associated with one, but, everything you talked about, in principle, anyway, applies to any engine. I especially liked the tip about relieving the backside of the valve on the drill press with a file. A real backyard trick. That is one aspect of your videos I really appreciate. Anyone can do those things if they apply themselves.Thanks, again!
Besides the My Mopar Channel.. which is full of Vintage Training slide shows.. you can learn as the Old Techs did back in the day... Our Uncle Tony is the Lord Mopar and Slant6 Monk...
It's the only channel that's going to tell you anything about these motors. Every other video I see is just starting them after a long time. Reminds me of my favorite video (Tony's cold start extravaganza) lol
You are bringing back memories for me a child growing up in my uncle and father's auto shop we done this more times than I care to remember still know all the old school tricks for Chevy Ford and Dodge to make real horse power gains with factory stuff I'm passing this down to my kid now we used very little aftermarket parts the only thing we used aftermarket was cam kits carbs and headers and once in a while a intake and we did well at the track and off-road racing I had the best childhood a kid could have
@@wakjob961 I had very good experiences with Edelbrock heads - I used quite a few brands (Ten years building engines professionally) and they were the only ones that came out of the box clean, had proper valve stem clearances, correct installed heights on the springs, and all valves passed a leak test - they even use assembly line on the valve stems. There may be other companies who's work is as good, but there aren't many.
@@79tazman Well alright then... my life is totally worthless... therefore it doesn't cost me anything to build it! Well 'cept for welding wire/rods/ welding gasses and O2.
seriously man..... you have taught me a LOT in the last 1.5 years im a 25 year old mechanic.... who learned from my dad....and been turning wrenches and holding flashlights since i was 6 years old i KNOW MY SHIT (but i only know what i know.... ill be the first to send it to the next shop if i dont feel OK doing the repair) keep it up man..... this slant 6 project is just so fascinating to me... ive got a gm 3.1 v6 that NO ONE makes speed parts for (but they should... as the stock crank and rods are forged, and can go 7000+ rpm) so im applying things from this slant to my 60 degree GM
You say overload, I say one of the cooler engine builds on youtube. I LOVE engine that are different or unique, and you really don't see many big car channels doing things like garge building bad ass slant six race motors!
There are people out there that do up Slant 6's many down under and here in the states but none have a youtube channel and make video's of them doing it
@@79tazman Right, I'm sure there's a community for it. For someone who's functionally a layman( I know a little bit about small engines.... ish.) Like me, it's cool as hell to see something not a SBC, LS, or a dressed up honda motor done! One reason I like things like rotary motors, oddballs like slant 6s, old school motors like flatheads.... they may be fine a dozen for car people, but not the rest of us.
Just picked up a 64 Dart convert with a 82 slant/904. At first I was bummed it wasn’t the original engine but now I’m realizing I’m better off with this later slant. Your knowledge of the slant is awesome! I’m all ears now!
I choose a 112 lsa cam with high lift. I also gave it 4 degrees advance. I don't want a rough idle, I choose this cam because I want a clean engine and I must considere it is a efi engine which is sensitive to low vacuum cam and I keep the stock torque converter. Also, I prefer this cam because it won't sacrifice low end torque for high range rpm I appreciate your advice though. I red somewhere that 108 degrees makes for a good race engine.
Also, it's not my engine so I'm not looking for most hp as much as I try to make the most with what I have. I'm on a limited budget. I don't have everything to benefit from a higher reving cam.
Uncle Tony, more great content as usual. I appreciate all the time and effort that goes into these videos and the old school wisdom that will never be lost thanks to you taking the time to do this. I know that you are a Mopar guy and used to play with some fords to but ive never heard you talk to much about GM. Im into SBCs like everybody else, I know not that niche or different but what can i say its what i grew up around, and Pontiacs for that matter. Id really like to see a short video like this that kind of pertains to the Chevy small block and a few secrets and tricks of the trade like you show here. Some old school speed secrets coming from you are always gold. Some pontiac content would be cool to from the 326 to the 455. I bet a few people would be surprised to learn Pontiacs used the same block so there is no small block or big block through the 60s and 70s and your a great outlet to get that kinda stuff out there and maybe bring in some new subscribers also who knows. Keep on keepin on man.
Cole, we do have some SBC stuff coming with Lamchop's Gasser, but I have no idea about time frame or extent until we get there. As for the hands on tech, I TRY to keep it as generic as possible, but unfortunately (for contents sake) I only have my own fleet to draw from
A chevy LS beehive spring might work in this. The blue set are $90 new (iirc) and have only 90lbs on the seat, but that's the idea of beehives. The varying radius of the spring and the oval shape of the wire takes the place of a single spring and damper and the lower pressure is a lower pumping loss (so more power). They also handle a bit of lift too. Just an idea.
Definitely not overloading on the Slant stuff. I may be biased because I have a 170, a 198 and two 225's so I am loving this content. I find it amazing that I can pull up your channel and find this kind of stuff in 2019. Your channel is awesome Tony absolutely Slanterrific!!!! I will say it again....UTG is Understanding The "G" engine!
When I was 12, my uncle, uncle Buck, came over to the house with his 68 Camaro, and I have loved all things that burn fuel since... You remind me of him, and I learned a ton of shit about engines and cars that my father would never have let me do... The only difference between my uncle and myself is he loves Chevrolet, and I love Mopar and Buick.
Yea exactly what i ran into on one build i did years ago . short story a friend and mopar mentor of mine we wher trading ideas and tinkering with them .He actually sacrificed a head bandsawed it up into several peices so we could find out how far we could take metal out and come to find they are dangerously thin places around the bowls valve stems so blend best you can dont dig out too much or shell crack on you
I wish I would’ve had videos like this when I was in high school 13 years ago with my slant six. Luckily, I still have my 69 valiant 100 2 door slant six ;)
Back cutting the valves by around 30 degrees or so really helps with low lift flow. Ive done this with several engines and it makes a difference. Hey Tony 12:99 here we come!
the stones seem to work better when porting and polishing cast the carbide seems great on aluminum.just need to dress them. steel wool to polish the valve up when you are done back facing works great to improve flow too. Iove doing head work
FYI on your your valve relief trick, all files only cut in one direction. with the tang pointed towards your body, it will cut as you push away. your files will last longer and will cut with a lot less effort...........love your videos ,and I have some hemi questions for you at a later date
I've had one '66 & two '69 225s-love this slant project. I just want to feast on a delicious pizza from one of the Uncle Tony's Pizza restaurants we have here in Rhode Island and watch your videos.
cool to see you building something different than the same old pushrod v8 stuff. Im a younger guy and into imports so ive messed around with some inline 6 2jz engines and the 2.8L straight six in my datsun 280z also lots of inline 4 cylinder engines. Inline engines are much better balanced than v8's or v6 so they like high rpm's especially the japanese ones. Build them with the most aggressive camshaft you can get stiff valvesprings, a 4 speed manual trans, and shift the thing at 7000-8000 rpm. Need as much airflow as you can get and use high rpm potential to make power.
I love the old "buzzin half dozen" engines, no matter what brand they are! I used to build 250/292 Chevys for dirt track racers until the local tracks did away with the class. Right now, I have a dilemma that I hope you can help me with. A few weeks ago, a guy traded me a 77 Dodge 200 4x4 (not sure if that's a D or W), along with some cash, for a GMC 25, because he couldn't get the Dodge to run right. The truck is REALLY solid since it came from out West (to Northwest Ohio last spring). It appears to have it's original drivetrain, 400 engine, 727 trans and Dana axles. It has a Thermo-Quad carb, which, after a full tune up on the engine, I've figured out is the biggest thing making it run badly...sat a long time, gummed up, the whole 9. Cleaning and rebuilding the carb isn't an issue for me. The problem is that the truck I traded him is the one that I built for pulling my 5th wheel camper. I'm sure that I can build the Dodge to pull it too, but, I'm not a Mopar guy, so, I don't know what's available to build a Mopar 400 for max torque down low, while still being able to run down the road at speed all day. Any help you can offer will be appreciated. Even though I'm a GM square body guy, I've always secretly liked these old Dodge trucks too.
Mike Brown those ThermoQuads were STUNNING carbs when dialed in and on cams that were stock or at most RV spec, like the CompCams 268H. Two BIG OLE watchouts with the TQ are loose throttle shafts in the throttle plate, and the phenolic resin middle body has two little 'sumps' on the bottom that hang down into reliefs in the throttle plate.( They LOOK EXACTLY like miniature rear sump oil pans for a model car engine.) These 'sumps' are actually the bottoms of the wells for the transfer of fuel thru the primary jet packages. These things were epoxied to the main body with some sort of white epoxy. This epoxy gets brittle over time with heat and different fuels over the years. If you decide to detail the TQ rather than replacing it with a less tedious version like the Holley spreadbores of the mid eighties that were two piece with the lift off top, you're gonna want to study up on the TQ. Ask anyone who has had a truly dialed in TQ on ANYTHING and they will rave about the UnGAWDLY response and BADASS WHAAAAHOOOOM that alerted everyone within earshot, that a 440 Police Magnum just dropped the blades. For those who really know, it's the sound that the Mighty 440 Monaco made right before clearing the Illinois Nazis off the park bridge in 'The Blues Brothers'. You can indeed, sort the W200 to effectively tote the camper,,, you'll just wanna be really sharp on the TQ.
Mike Brown, Sorry bout the book. Check out Mopar Collector's Guide magazine for the sources that will make short work of finding parts and services for your new Mopar Affliction. Also, Moparts.com, there are hundreds of thousands of Mopar people out here who still keep the Faith. And most will come out and help if you give a shout out. If you want further in-depth info on the TQ and how to get yer 'W' rockin', feel free to touch base. Magnumv1066@gmail.com
It was brief, but very good info warning about choosing too large of a valve size. Always see small block ford (in-line valves) guys spend forever porting heads then waste most of it by using 2.02 intake valve
When I was screwing around with a 225 head on the flowbench, I epoxied the floor of the port and raised it as much as possible. Matched a Super 6 intake to it and had it stuff into a 73 Scamp. The valves had a 30 degree back cut them to get rid of the ski ramp, done on an old Sioux valve grinder, and a three angle valve job, done with stones. The car was my daily and was built for gas mileage, and regularly got 31 mpg and ran 16.90's with a stock cam, 904 trans, and 2.74 gear. I had so much more spare time when I was younger apparently.
@@jerrytee2688 It was my only running car at the time. Got driven in whatever weather there was, summer or winter. I remember driving back home from Ottawa during the 1998 Ice Storm, on ancient G60-14's. These cars are 19 second cars stock, and even the 318 powered ones were only a 16.50 car stock. Gaining nearly 3 seconds in the quarter with just a 2 brl intake added and head work shows how restrictive the ports are in stock form.
@@UncleTonysGarage I raised the floor leading up the the ramp, and layed the short side back some. The raised ramp actually seemed to improve the shortside radius by raising the floor. I raised the port as much as I could then slide the intake up higher so the roof of the intake matched the raised roof of the intake port. It also ended up matching he bottom of the port pretty well. It was a stock super 6 intake so its only held on with clamps IIRC. I remember there being some grinding to make everything fit, but it worked. It was for an automotive machining class I was taking at the time.
Don't worry about overloading us . We can always rewatch the videos then you get more veiws & more money for more projects 😃 . I think 🤔 if that's how it works good info . I like ernson & crane cams there a company that starts with an s & has an iron cross for a logo they make a lot of cams for inline 6 . Alot for AMC 6 banners . The last one AMC Drew up was made from 1987- 2006 242 cubic inch best motor for Jeeps
You are a wealth of Mopar wisdom! Any way to drill out the length of that water jacket and put a sleeve in it and lower that port floor? Most likely near impossible and or not worth the extreme effort. Also replace the cast in rocker shaft stands with aluminum?
Beautiful! I love seeing outside the box engine builds, would have been wicked if you could find someone experienced with casting to help you design and build your own aluminum head though, or if you could create a head by welding together two late model aluminum v8 heads.
Love the slant. I have an 83 d150 I pulled out from behind a barn where it was sinking. It has a slant I am planning on building, and I'm thinking of turboing it. I wish these head videos were more in depth.
Jake Scott, once you start pressurizing it,, you don't need to sweat the intake ports near as much, just clean up the ruff casting stuff and clean up the valves and get ready to need head studs and Orings for the head gaskets.
@@patrickwayne3701 I'm not going for performance, I just want to take care of the unequal air flow through the intake by adding a small amount of boost.
@@justanothercarchannel9890 The reason these inlines have an unbalanced mixture is because manifold runners 1 and 6 will always be much longer than runners 3 and 4. This is why many performance inline sixes would be fitted with 2 carbs. The other solution is multi port fuel injection, but I don't know anybody who is interested in building a slant six with multi port fuel injection.
@@skylinefever There are a couple of good write ups on converting a GM batch fire injection to work on a slant six. You can get all sorts of good performance knowledge from slantsix.org.
Removing 5 lbs is still a good amount of weight reduction on a head that most people haven't experimented much with. You're a pioneer Tony! And a v8 definitely has heavier heads on it than the slant 6 head, right?
Although I had more experience with the 245 265 six Hemi in Australia the lessons I learned from my Uncle Tom who was a tool maker with the slant six are so close to Uncle Tony it’s not funny a trip down memory land for me !
Good to know , every small power gain you can get from each little mod is worth the time you put in to find it , 10 small finds will add up to a good overall power gain 👍
Olds mobile used a 33 degree able at the seat instead of 45 degrees like everybody else. But Olds engineers weren't really interested in making high rpm horsepower, they wanted low end torque. The slant six, especially the 225, is a low rpm engine. The 225 has a long stroke of 4.125". That's almost as much as some big blocks from the 70's. So, what about running a 33 degree seat angle with a low lift came, where that angle works best and so does the 225?
I'm a bit confused about the port floor thing....I've heard elsewhere that you should focus on making a nice inner radius, partly to stop the gases from "letting go" from that surface....something about the inner path being the fastest way through the bend...(haven't read up on 4strokes in a while) Also, with "line of sight porting", do you mean making a straight shot diagonally towards the valve? If so, are you sure it isn't better to try to make a nice uniform bend? Handy tip: Try to find images on the internet of cut apart heads where you can see the stock port shape, and most importantly, see the thickness of casting around the port. Nice work either way!
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think you want the shop age on the intake side that way to help reduce the amount of air fuel mixture going back into the intake port and on the exhaust side you want the edge to be rounded because you wanted to flow out around the valve and into the exhaust port?
I heard many times about painting the internal surfaces of the casting for the reasons you mentioned. But I am a little afraid that the paint tends to peel off due to the heat cycles and then finishes by clogging the pickup or having a worse effect that nothing. Can you confirm that after years of use of a street engine, the paint coating will stay on the iron?
Threesixty31,,, get it HOT, get CLEAN, then COAT it. With quality paint and quality prep, it stayed put in my 383 from 1984 to now. I used marine epoxy from JP Hirsch out of the same concern for peeling off and clogging the pickup, but no evidence of erosion is evident. Good prep, good paint and you'll be fine
Hahaha.... at Shooting at the Poor thing... and oh man.. I've had two. From twin 68 more door Darts. Hers has 350k on the motor, mine when we found it and drove her home.. had knock😑.. so yes they can live Forever and also yes they can die.. mine is now the slant6 of V8s 318.
@@northerngrit9656 nice.. I really like the Valiant.. and 70 looks great.. I'll feature my Car on my Brother Arys.. YTube soon . We are also installing a lite rebuild 225 slant into his 64 Dart..
Not to take away from your DIY performance angle but what are your thoughts on just getting a multi-angle valve/valve seat done while the head is at the machine shop anyway?
UT, is there any benefits to using a lubricant on the valves while back cutting? Evidently there isn’t that much heat generated with your method, just wondering the pros V cons.... Also, I’m building mine for occasional use on the street, is it ok to back cut? (Once or twice a week of less than an hour use)
What’s the easiest way to cut sections off of a cylinder head? And is there any way to cut down the valve stem where it meets the valve?there are lots of undercut valves for V8’s, but not for sixes.
When doing the Valves on a Drill press like that, are you worried about the 'RUNOUT' from the Drill Press Shaft affecting said Valve work? Cheers for the video Uncle Tony, I appreciate it bud :-)
Definitely, don't apologize for taking time with the slant six. I have never had one or been associated with one, but, everything you talked about, in principle, anyway, applies to any engine. I especially liked the tip about relieving the backside of the valve on the drill press with a file. A real backyard trick. That is one aspect of your videos I really appreciate. Anyone can do those things if they apply themselves.Thanks, again!
You cannot overload us on Slant 6 stuff. It is one of the main reasons why we are here.
Amen Dude...
Besides the My Mopar Channel.. which is full of Vintage Training slide shows.. you can learn as the Old Techs did back in the day... Our Uncle Tony is the Lord Mopar and Slant6 Monk...
It's the only channel that's going to tell you anything about these motors. Every other video I see is just starting them after a long time. Reminds me of my favorite video (Tony's cold start extravaganza) lol
You are bringing back memories for me a child growing up in my uncle and father's auto shop we done this more times than I care to remember still know all the old school tricks for Chevy Ford and Dodge to make real horse power gains with factory stuff I'm passing this down to my kid now we used very little aftermarket parts the only thing we used aftermarket was cam kits carbs and headers and once in a while a intake and we did well at the track and off-road racing I had the best childhood a kid could have
Pay attention students, this is cylinder head work the way it was before aftermarket cylinder heads were a thing. Love it!!!
Aftermarket heads still need a LOT of attention before they're ready to rock proper.
Anybody have a pic of the V-12 double Slant 6 engine from the 1960s?
@@dickjohnson4268 we may have to get UTG to reproduce that engine..
@@wakjob961
I had very good experiences with Edelbrock heads - I used quite a few brands (Ten years building engines professionally) and they were the only ones that came out of the box clean, had proper valve stem clearances, correct installed heights on the springs, and all valves passed a leak test - they even use assembly line on the valve stems.
There may be other companies who's work is as good, but there aren't many.
@@gulfy09 Now we just need an XNR V-12 to put it in. JAGUAR SHMAGUAR!
Maybe not nuts, but definitely a head case.
I love free horsepower, It's a thinking man's game that's what hot rodding is about.
Hmmmmm.... Shades of Smokey Yunick.
it's not free when you have to spend lots of hours to get it
@@79tazman Well alright then... my life is totally worthless... therefore it doesn't cost me anything to build it! Well 'cept for welding wire/rods/ welding gasses and O2.
Love the slant six videos! My favorite and most reliable engine.
I'm around your age and still learning from your videos. thanks for all your effort in bringing this information to the masses.
Most of the tips and methods you put up here will benefit any build, not just the Mopar stuff ! Hope you all had a great Thanksgiving !
@Konstantinos Palaiologos- how bout a video of that clean little Dart (?} of yours ?
seriously man..... you have taught me a LOT in the last 1.5 years
im a 25 year old mechanic.... who learned from my dad....and been turning wrenches and holding flashlights since i was 6 years old
i KNOW MY SHIT (but i only know what i know.... ill be the first to send it to the next shop if i dont feel OK doing the repair)
keep it up man..... this slant 6 project is just so fascinating to me...
ive got a gm 3.1 v6 that NO ONE makes speed parts for (but they should... as the stock crank and rods are forged, and can go 7000+ rpm)
so im applying things from this slant to my 60 degree GM
Love this slant 6 stuff wish this information was around in the 70s when I was playing slant six.
I had to smile when you said you used Rust-Oleum Sunrise red. I painted my hole Plymouth van with Rust-Oleum Sunrise red.
You say overload, I say one of the cooler engine builds on youtube. I LOVE engine that are different or unique, and you really don't see many big car channels doing things like garge building bad ass slant six race motors!
There are people out there that do up Slant 6's many down under and here in the states but none have a youtube channel and make video's of them doing it
@@79tazman Right, I'm sure there's a community for it. For someone who's functionally a layman( I know a little bit about small engines.... ish.) Like me, it's cool as hell to see something not a SBC, LS, or a dressed up honda motor done!
One reason I like things like rotary motors, oddballs like slant 6s, old school motors like flatheads.... they may be fine a dozen for car people, but not the rest of us.
Love the oldschool slant six videos! Glad to see your hand healing up nicely too!
That's about the most old school valve grinding .
I've seen in along time .
I love it . 😎
Just picked up a 64 Dart convert with a 82 slant/904. At first I was bummed it wasn’t the original engine but now I’m realizing I’m better off with this later slant. Your knowledge of the slant is awesome! I’m all ears now!
I've plans to build a slant that might blow even your mind, so all of this old-hand stuff is super helpful!
Thanks Uncy T!
Im gonna have to buy some of that merch. Give the channel some support. I really like that hoodie Uncle T!
Thorough as always Uncle Tony. Thanks for all your insightful content. Happy Holidays!
Don't worry about overloading us. Keep it coming! Knowledge weighs nothing!
So true. Can never know too much.
Shane Singleton we second that!!!!!
I like your build. I'm building a ford 302 right now and work with the parts I have, except for the cam. I find your build very inspiring.
Keep cam LSA to about 108 for best torque/ scavenging with about 4* advance after timing chain stretch. You'll be happy.
I choose a 112 lsa cam with high lift. I also gave it 4 degrees advance. I don't want a rough idle, I choose this cam because I want a clean engine and I must considere it is a efi engine which is sensitive to low vacuum cam and I keep the stock torque converter. Also, I prefer this cam because it won't sacrifice low end torque for high range rpm
I appreciate your advice though. I red somewhere that 108 degrees makes for a good race engine.
Also, it's not my engine so I'm not looking for most hp as much as I try to make the most with what I have. I'm on a limited budget. I don't have everything to benefit from a higher reving cam.
Awesome example of diy engine builder trick
Uncle Tony, more great content as usual. I appreciate all the time and effort that goes into these videos and the old school wisdom that will never be lost thanks to you taking the time to do this. I know that you are a Mopar guy and used to play with some fords to but ive never heard you talk to much about GM. Im into SBCs like everybody else, I know not that niche or different but what can i say its what i grew up around, and Pontiacs for that matter. Id really like to see a short video like this that kind of pertains to the Chevy small block and a few secrets and tricks of the trade like you show here. Some old school speed secrets coming from you are always gold. Some pontiac content would be cool to from the 326 to the 455. I bet a few people would be surprised to learn Pontiacs used the same block so there is no small block or big block through the 60s and 70s and your a great outlet to get that kinda stuff out there and maybe bring in some new subscribers also who knows. Keep on keepin on man.
Cole, we do have some SBC stuff coming with Lamchop's Gasser, but I have no idea about time frame or extent until we get there.
As for the hands on tech, I TRY to keep it as generic as possible, but unfortunately (for contents sake) I only have my own fleet to draw from
Cole Davis ,Would love to get some old school PONTIAC Information !!!
I'm going to start on a slant 6 225 build in a few months. Glad you make these videos, thank you
the "Hmp of Doom" was my ex-wife !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Embree Smith
You beat me to it
rotflmao!!
Lmao...hilarious
Embree Smith
Did he change the title?
Embree Smith hump of doom the moment you realize the girl has HIV
Keep the Slant coming, love seeing a work horse engine get some play time!
A chevy LS beehive spring might work in this. The blue set are $90 new (iirc) and have only 90lbs on the seat, but that's the idea of beehives. The varying radius of the spring and the oval shape of the wire takes the place of a single spring and damper and the lower pressure is a lower pumping loss (so more power). They also handle a bit of lift too. Just an idea.
Great episode I can’t wait for spring when you run it
I can't wait for Bottle Rocket to run I've been waiting all year
Definitely not overloading on the Slant stuff. I may be biased because I have a 170, a 198 and two 225's so I am loving this content. I find it amazing that I can pull up your channel and find this kind of stuff in 2019. Your channel is awesome Tony absolutely Slanterrific!!!! I will say it again....UTG is Understanding The "G" engine!
I love it ! Straight to the point no bullshit no annoying ass music in the background budget minded hot rodding 💯
Someone tried to fix a tiny leak one time with %$weld and a Sheetmetal screw...…. And, Look what happened to the titanic^__^
I can't wait to hear that 6 run ! Can't remember ever hearing a slant six run that was anything more than bone stock.
Great videos ! I had a AMC 258 inline 6 and learned a lot about how durable they are if you treat them right .
When I was 12, my uncle, uncle Buck, came over to the house with his 68 Camaro, and I have loved all things that burn fuel since...
You remind me of him, and I learned a ton of shit about engines and cars that my father would never have let me do...
The only difference between my uncle and myself is he loves Chevrolet, and I love Mopar and Buick.
Excellent info as always Uncle Tony.
Cheers guys
The only problem i have with utg is the videos are too short ..he is the absolute best guy ..
I can’t wait for this motor to be done!
Head work equals power. You have much mopar hp knowledge. Great work.
I don't have a slant six but I'm enjoying the slant six videos!
Yea exactly what i ran into on one build i did years ago . short story a friend and mopar mentor of mine we wher trading ideas and tinkering with them .He actually sacrificed a head bandsawed it up into several peices so we could find out how far we could take metal out and come to find they are dangerously thin places around the bowls valve stems so blend best you can dont dig out too much or shell crack on you
There is a 6 with a blower on it here on you tube thats pretty impressive. Great video!
Uncle Tony don't stop with slant six stuff . Keep up with the good work great job
I thought my files were old and used. Yours was even magnetized. Awesome as always UT!
Great stuff. Wish I knew these things when I was a kid building mine.
Bikerbob59 so true!
I wish I would’ve had videos like this when I was in high school 13 years ago with my slant six. Luckily, I still have my 69 valiant 100 2 door slant six ;)
Back cutting the valves by around 30 degrees or so really helps with low lift flow. Ive done this with several engines and it makes a difference. Hey Tony 12:99 here we come!
This thing better run a bunch stronger than that! But, 12.99 is a good first stop
the stones seem to work better when porting and polishing cast the carbide seems great on aluminum.just need to dress them. steel wool to polish the valve up when you are done back facing works great to improve flow too. Iove doing head work
Learning every day. All you gotta do is watch everybodies favorite uncle.
FYI on your your valve relief trick, all files only cut in one direction. with the tang pointed towards your body, it will cut as you push away. your files will last longer and will cut with a lot less effort...........love your videos ,and I have some hemi questions for you at a later date
I like the slant videos as much as the rest, there’s no overload!
5 lb out of that head is pretty damn respectable
I've had one '66 & two '69 225s-love this slant project. I just want to feast on a delicious pizza from one of the Uncle Tony's Pizza restaurants we have here in Rhode Island and watch your videos.
I love the valve grinding trick
cool to see you building something different than the same old pushrod v8 stuff. Im a younger guy and into imports so ive messed around with some inline 6 2jz engines and the 2.8L straight six in my datsun 280z also lots of inline 4 cylinder engines. Inline engines are much better balanced than v8's or v6 so they like high rpm's especially the japanese ones. Build them with the most aggressive camshaft you can get stiff valvesprings, a 4 speed manual trans, and shift the thing at 7000-8000 rpm. Need as much airflow as you can get and use high rpm potential to make power.
Awesome work 👍🏼
I hope you had a great Turkey day Tony - I'll see you tomorrow.
I love the old "buzzin half dozen" engines, no matter what brand they are! I used to build 250/292 Chevys for dirt track racers until the local tracks did away with the class. Right now, I have a dilemma that I hope you can help me with. A few weeks ago, a guy traded me a 77 Dodge 200 4x4 (not sure if that's a D or W), along with some cash, for a GMC 25, because he couldn't get the Dodge to run right. The truck is REALLY solid since it came from out West (to Northwest Ohio last spring). It appears to have it's original drivetrain, 400 engine, 727 trans and Dana axles. It has a Thermo-Quad carb, which, after a full tune up on the engine, I've figured out is the biggest thing making it run badly...sat a long time, gummed up, the whole 9. Cleaning and rebuilding the carb isn't an issue for me. The problem is that the truck I traded him is the one that I built for pulling my 5th wheel camper. I'm sure that I can build the Dodge to pull it too, but, I'm not a Mopar guy, so, I don't know what's available to build a Mopar 400 for max torque down low, while still being able to run down the road at speed all day. Any help you can offer will be appreciated. Even though I'm a GM square body guy, I've always secretly liked these old Dodge trucks too.
Mike Brown those ThermoQuads were STUNNING carbs when dialed in and on cams that were stock or at most RV spec, like the CompCams 268H. Two BIG OLE watchouts with the TQ are loose throttle shafts in the throttle plate, and the phenolic resin middle body has two little 'sumps' on the bottom that hang down into reliefs in the throttle plate.( They LOOK EXACTLY like miniature rear sump oil pans for a model car engine.)
These 'sumps' are actually the bottoms of the wells for the transfer of fuel thru the primary jet packages. These things were epoxied to the main body with some sort of white epoxy. This epoxy gets brittle over time with heat and different fuels over the years. If you decide to detail the TQ rather than replacing it with a less tedious version like the Holley spreadbores of the mid eighties that were two piece with the lift off top, you're gonna want to study up on the TQ.
Ask anyone who has had a truly dialed in TQ on ANYTHING and they will rave about the UnGAWDLY response and BADASS WHAAAAHOOOOM that alerted everyone within earshot, that a 440 Police Magnum just dropped the blades. For those who really know, it's the sound that the Mighty 440 Monaco made right before clearing the Illinois Nazis off the park bridge in 'The Blues Brothers'.
You can indeed, sort the W200 to effectively tote the camper,,, you'll just wanna be really sharp on the TQ.
Mike Brown, Sorry bout the book. Check out Mopar Collector's Guide magazine for the sources that will make short work of finding parts and services for your new Mopar Affliction.
Also, Moparts.com, there are hundreds of thousands of Mopar people out here who still keep the Faith. And most will come out and help if you give a shout out.
If you want further in-depth info on the TQ and how to get yer 'W' rockin', feel free to touch base.
Magnumv1066@gmail.com
Handmade by Tony.... a lot of work I'm sure. Looking forward to when that baby fires up. Enjoy your weekend UTG. ✌
Thanks for another great video, as usual.
It was brief, but very good info warning about choosing too large of a valve size. Always see small block ford (in-line valves) guys spend forever porting heads then waste most of it by using 2.02 intake valve
Alright uncle Tony, I'm glad to see your hand healed up. Yikes that one looked like it hurt
Ive been dreaming of doing this since i was a kid and bought my 1st slant in a 64 dart, for $50 bucks... Love it!
ROLL UP YOUR WINDOWS!!!
Keep the videos coming.
Cledus Snow Fire up your "Winstones", or in my case, Pall Mall Silver 100s lol!
I read this is the style of scotty kilmers "rev up your engines!"
Love information on slant six!!
Alot of slant 6 heads have met their demise when that water jacket gets too thin
When I was screwing around with a 225 head on the flowbench, I epoxied the floor of the port and raised it as much as possible. Matched a Super 6 intake to it and had it stuff into a 73 Scamp. The valves had a 30 degree back cut them to get rid of the ski ramp, done on an old Sioux valve grinder, and a three angle valve job, done with stones. The car was my daily and was built for gas mileage, and regularly got 31 mpg and ran 16.90's with a stock cam, 904 trans, and 2.74 gear. I had so much more spare time when I was younger apparently.
Do you think it would be best to raise the entire floor, or just the area leading up to the ramp?
@@jerrytee2688 It was my only running car at the time. Got driven in whatever weather there was, summer or winter. I remember driving back home from Ottawa during the 1998 Ice Storm, on ancient G60-14's. These cars are 19 second cars stock, and even the 318 powered ones were only a 16.50 car stock. Gaining nearly 3 seconds in the quarter with just a 2 brl intake added and head work shows how restrictive the ports are in stock form.
@@UncleTonysGarage I raised the floor leading up the the ramp, and layed the short side back some. The raised ramp actually seemed to improve the shortside radius by raising the floor. I raised the port as much as I could then slide the intake up higher so the roof of the intake matched the raised roof of the intake port. It also ended up matching he bottom of the port pretty well. It was a stock super 6 intake so its only held on with clamps IIRC. I remember there being some grinding to make everything fit, but it worked. It was for an automotive machining class I was taking at the time.
Uncle Tony, Thanks for your vids. I have a 71 Duster, 225, I used the spray paint Rusty metal primer. How does that hold up to high temp over time?
Don't worry about overloading us . We can always rewatch the videos then you get more veiws & more money for more projects 😃 . I think 🤔 if that's how it works good info . I like ernson & crane cams there a company that starts with an s & has an iron cross for a logo they make a lot of cams for inline 6 . Alot for AMC 6 banners . The last one AMC Drew up was made from 1987- 2006 242 cubic inch best motor for Jeeps
You are a wealth of Mopar wisdom! Any way to drill out the length of that water jacket and put a sleeve in it and lower that port floor? Most likely near impossible and or not worth the extreme effort. Also replace the cast in rocker shaft stands with aluminum?
Neither would be worth the effort/cost, but they could be done
Beautiful! I love seeing outside the box engine builds, would have been wicked if you could find someone experienced with casting to help you design and build your own aluminum head though, or if you could create a head by welding together two late model aluminum v8 heads.
Love the slant. I have an 83 d150 I pulled out from behind a barn where it was sinking. It has a slant I am planning on building, and I'm thinking of turboing it. I wish these head videos were more in depth.
Jake Scott, once you start pressurizing it,, you don't need to sweat the intake ports near as much, just clean up the ruff casting stuff and clean up the valves and get ready to need head studs and Orings for the head gaskets.
@@patrickwayne3701 I'm not going for performance, I just want to take care of the unequal air flow through the intake by adding a small amount of boost.
@@justanothercarchannel9890 Ahhh, well THAT'S gonna be easy, with stock parts all around then.
@@justanothercarchannel9890 The reason these inlines have an unbalanced mixture is because manifold runners 1 and 6 will always be much longer than runners 3 and 4. This is why many performance inline sixes would be fitted with 2 carbs. The other solution is multi port fuel injection, but I don't know anybody who is interested in building a slant six with multi port fuel injection.
@@skylinefever There are a couple of good write ups on converting a GM batch fire injection to work on a slant six. You can get all sorts of good performance knowledge from slantsix.org.
I've done the back cutting of the valve using a right-angle grinder while spinning in a drill press.
Removing 5 lbs is still a good amount of weight reduction on a head that most people haven't experimented much with. You're a pioneer Tony! And a v8 definitely has heavier heads on it than the slant 6 head, right?
" I cut my way clear into the water jacket... " Better luck next time, eh ? ... 😁
Although I had more experience with the 245 265 six Hemi in Australia the lessons I learned from my Uncle Tom who was a tool maker with the slant six are so close to Uncle Tony it’s not funny a trip down memory land for me !
Good to know , every small power gain you can get from each little mod is worth the time you put in to find it , 10 small finds will add up to a good overall power gain 👍
Olds mobile used a 33 degree able at the seat instead of 45 degrees like everybody else. But Olds engineers weren't really interested in making high rpm horsepower, they wanted low end torque. The slant six, especially the 225, is a low rpm engine. The 225 has a long stroke of 4.125". That's almost as much as some big blocks from the 70's. So, what about running a 33 degree seat angle with a low lift came, where that angle works best and so does the 225?
For the inside coating try glyptal.
The house of Jafro sends it's regards
I'm a bit confused about the port floor thing....I've heard elsewhere that you should focus on making a nice inner radius, partly to stop the gases from "letting go" from that surface....something about the inner path being the fastest way through the bend...(haven't read up on 4strokes in a while)
Also, with "line of sight porting", do you mean making a straight shot diagonally towards the valve? If so, are you sure it isn't better to try to make a nice uniform bend?
Handy tip: Try to find images on the internet of cut apart heads where you can see the stock port shape, and most importantly, see the thickness of casting around the port.
Nice work either way!
You're thinking of the short turn at the end of the runner...this is smack in the middle of it.
Thanks for the lesson!!!!
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think you want the shop age on the intake side that way to help reduce the amount of air fuel mixture going back into the intake port and on the exhaust side you want the edge to be rounded because you wanted to flow out around the valve and into the exhaust port?
Manuel, you're exactly right...in fact I did that video like two weeks ago. Brain fart on this one. Fixed it, thank you
That water jacket looks alarmingly thin ! 👍
What's to keep you from re-profiling the port by adding epoxy to the bottom and opening up the top with a grinder, and matching the intake?
I heard many times about painting the internal surfaces of the casting for the reasons you mentioned. But I am a little afraid that the paint tends to peel off due to the heat cycles and then finishes by clogging the pickup or having a worse effect that nothing. Can you confirm that after years of use of a street engine, the paint coating will stay on the iron?
Threesixty31,,, get it HOT, get CLEAN, then COAT it. With quality paint and quality prep, it stayed put in my 383 from 1984 to now.
I used marine epoxy from JP Hirsch out of the same concern for peeling off and clogging the pickup, but no evidence of erosion is evident.
Good prep, good paint and you'll be fine
I can't confirm anything...I don't do this to regularly driven street engines
I had a /6 once, everyone said they were " bullet proof" and then I blew mine up lol.
But you never actually shot bullets at it. They might have been right.
@@gg5115 true....but now you've got me wondering
Hahaha.... at Shooting at the Poor thing... and oh man.. I've had two. From twin 68 more door Darts. Hers has 350k on the motor, mine when we found it and drove her home.. had knock😑.. so yes they can live Forever and also yes they can die.. mine is now the slant6 of V8s 318.
@@AtZero138 I also converted mine to a 318 using conversion mounts, it was a 70 vailant.
@@northerngrit9656 nice.. I really like the Valiant.. and 70 looks great.. I'll feature my Car on my Brother Arys.. YTube soon . We are also installing a lite rebuild 225 slant into his 64 Dart..
Happy thanksgiving
5 pounds is big weight. Better air flow through grinding....
@@tulatoiletandsepticllc81 until you grind into the water jacket... 😁
@@richardlincoln8438 you have to be very very careful not to do that LoL
Not to take away from your DIY performance angle but what are your thoughts on just getting a multi-angle valve/valve seat done while the head is at the machine shop anyway?
You could do that, but the majority of the bowl would still need to be shaped/smoothed. May as well just do it this way and skip the machine shop, no?
Uncle Tony's Garage perfectly reasonable as always.
Thanks
Any planned...
Holiday ...
burnouts ?
🔥🔥🔥
I was watching maple motors then saw uncle T had to watch my boy luv u unk
I gotta' say, Tony; there isn't much I wouldn't give to have you rebuild my engine.
Best informative videos
Any room to raise the roof then taper that into the port/bowl? Then epoxy the floor to correspond to the port roof move?
UT, is there any benefits to using a lubricant on the valves while back cutting? Evidently there isn’t that much heat generated with your method, just wondering the pros V cons....
Also, I’m building mine for occasional use on the street, is it ok to back cut? (Once or twice a week of less than an hour use)
No cons at all...go ahead and do it
What’s the easiest way to cut sections off of a cylinder head? And is there any way to cut down the valve stem where it meets the valve?there are lots of undercut valves for V8’s, but not for sixes.
When doing the Valves on a Drill press like that, are you worried about the 'RUNOUT' from the Drill Press Shaft affecting said Valve work? Cheers for the video Uncle Tony, I appreciate it bud :-)
Nah, not actually touching the contact are of the seat
I can’t wait to see this thing run
why not use the peanut plug heads?
Good info uncle Tony!! Massage the humps.. Don't eradicate them!!
Who's bright idea was that? Airflow restriction
Had alot of fun !