For new riders attempting this, listen to what the advice he is suggesting as a 1/4 turn at a time with the adjuster nuts. A full turn or two moves the wheel a significant margin and you will know right away in the chain tension or looseness. Do one quarter turn each side. Check chain tension. Check twice. Adjust as necessary. Check chain tension. Check it twice. Adjust as necessary. The only thing I wish was the notch marks on the bike were large lines with 3 smaller lines in between the large ones for finer adjustment.
So you loosen both adjusters on both sides in a progressive way to bring the wheel back in an equal amount? So 1/4 - 1/4 each side then check 1/4 - 1/4 correct? snug the locking nut then check wheel alignment?
@@izzy8609After loosening the rear axle nut, I loosen both side locking nuts and then one side at a time, I turn about 1/4. Then I turn the other side 1/4. Then I check my chain slack. I check the chain slack like 2 or 3 times to ensure I am confident with my observation. If I need to tighten more, I do 1/4 turn on the adjuster bolts, one side, then the other. Then I check my chain slack again. Once I am satisfied with my chain slack, I use a flexible (fiberglass?) tape measure with Millimeter markings to ensure my knotch marks and alignment lines are within 1mm. My bike has markings that are 5mm apart. This matches the tape measure perfectly. I line up my tape measure to the bike markings and then check the opposite side. If my alignment line is in the middle of two alignment knotches, that would be on the 3mm line of the tape measure. I ensure the opposite side is also on the 3mm tape measure line. Not the most efficient method, but it is very accurate. I also use a Milwaukee fat tape measure to measure my chain slack. I set on level surface, raise the tape measure. Identify my lowest point and highest point but the tape measure never moves. The tool in the video looks even more accurate. When done, ensure you are using two wrenches to tighen the adjuster nuts. You don't want to use one and then turn the adjuster nut a tad more. You must hold it in place while tightening the lock nut. After all that, make sure you torque the axle nut properly. Mine is 95.9ft lbs. I set for 95 ft lbs and use the last .9 to rotate the nut to where I drop the cottle pin in. The manual says 95.9, and then up to a 1/4 turn more for the cottle pin. I just don't want to over-tighten it.
Been at this for literally my entire life, as in, I started riding at 9 years old and am 54 now, never not having a bike in that time. I have still never heard the rag in the sprocket trick. Thanks for that one!
would like to add that its always a good idea to adjust the tension in the tightest part of the chain, otherwise you risk over-tightening... great video as always
if you ride hard or miss just 1 lube you can easily get a stretch spot doesn't mean your chain is ruined just a little abnormal wear it's fine if you keep an eye on it.
@@bamxuberant roll the bike backwards or forwards, on the ground and you can see the chain tightening a little then relaxing. Where its tightest measure from there.
As with most maintenance jobs, the manual will tell you not only what the slack should be, but exactly where on the chain to measure this slack. You can see it if you pause at 1:19, the manual shows you precisely what to do.
1:22 this is correct but it’s important to spin the wheel and measure the slack when the chain is at its tightest point during the rotation meaning find the tightest point and then take your measurement per most manuals
i have a mate who is quite new to the motorbike scene and i got him onto your channel... your vids are so basic and easy to follow man. thanks and keep them coming
Ari Henning Can you please make a video on aftermarket air filters and aftermarket piggy bank ecu,how they affect the engine and should one install an aftermarket airfilter without a piggy bank ecu ?
Does your chain hang low? Does it wobble to and fro? Can you tie it in a knot? Can you tie it in a bow? If you answered 'yes' to any of these questions, then this video is for you
@@deathtroopers4345 so, we'll be talking about how much we miss him and how good he was when he dies, too. until then, get your qualifying in order, rossi, dammit. quartararo is showing everyone up on a satellite yamaha
Clean and lube chain first. Take a short ride. Chain will slack even more after lubing. Then adjust. I found this out when I adjusted first then lubed,. chain got loose, went back and had to re-adjust.
Um.... how can a chain slack after applying some lube? Better to drive first, and then clean and lube while the chain is warm. Then adjust between spec mid and minimum slack.
Can you explain the rag trick? It seems on my TU250X putting a rag between the chain and sprocket/axle actually pushes the axle forward away from the adjustment bolts.
Thank you for this video, I'm a few hundred miles in with my first bike, it seemed like it's time to adjust the chain. Gonna do it first thing in the morning.
I wanted to say thank you for the video. I had to keep readjusting and readjusting. Once you have the chain tightened the right side will move when you are tightening the axel nut, keep the wheel pressed where you need it to be as you tighten or it will move and throw off your measurements. Took me three times doing this to figure this out. But taking the measurement was the best method.
lol i said the same thing... I am at about 1,500 on my new bike... I was like dang I am well overdue... Lol, I always check it though it is doing pretty good still.
Another very informative vid! Good job guys! I like the trick with the rag. Need to try that next time. I think a good topic to cover would be suspension. I feel that suspension adjustments are a very underrated necessity to getting the optimal performance / handling setting out of your bike.
@@barryweaver8833 He took two measurements, one from the bottom of the swingarm straight down to the horizontal midline of the chain (pins or rivets or whatever those are called) when the chain was stretched to it's maximum (40mm), then another when the chain was pressed as close to the swingarm as possible (5mm). Subtract the difference and your chain slack is 35mm.
@@andrewgalloway8012 So in this video a Z125 is used it looks like in the final measurement he pushed the chain all the way up against the bottom of the swingarm. Does that mean for Z125 and the groms the final measurement will always be the same since it always tops out against the swingarm? Cause on mine if cant touch the swingarm its way too tight.
Question is: how much force should one use when raising the chain? I have heard different things and there will be a big difference in stopping at first resistance vs applying more force
Год назад+2
I am coming from a video from 'Fab Motorbikes' and he said the upper section of the chain should not be moving while you are raising/lowering the lower section. With Ari's measurement on 1:35 it was moving. Bike manual doesn't say anything also. I am lost on this one.
@ fab motorbikes is most likely right. Otherwise you are taking or adding slack from the upper side as the tension changes. It's also in line with what the picture in the manual/swingarm shows so I assume that's the way.
@@Mech.EYou don't need slack on the upper side. All of the slack is going to be on one side when you're riding. If you leave slack up top, your slack measurement is going to be tighter than the actual number.
There is a special segment on a RUclips program called MOTOVUDU, the application is basically exactly the same as a ten speed push bike say with two cogs on front and some sprockets on rear..
Just got a bike after 40 years hiatus. What the hell would I do without Motorcyclist Magazine? Oh, it's the ultimate modern fartknocker bike, a CTX700. I'm diggin' it.
to add to the very good video, chain slack can vary at different points of the chain. so if it varies too much (too loose and tight at same time), time to change the chain.
To get the measurement I open the jaw of an adjustable spanner/wrench to the desired distance…instant measuring tool that is easy to hold . Thanks for the video, from England
Also check the manual for slack reference. Its not always the middle of the chain, on some models you use lower and upper point of the chain as the reference.
Just be aware that not in all bikes you do the lack measurement midway between the front and rear sprocket. The Yamaha manual for my Tenere 700 is taken closer to the rear sprocket than the front. And it’s not done from the very bottom of the swing arm to the middle of the chain link, but rather from the bottom of the plastic chain slider to the middle of the chain link. I like that you suggested to look at the repair manual. I have seen videos of people adjusting the chain on a T7 with the wheel up, the manual says to do it with the wheel on the ground and on the side stand. One thing though, due to my training and field, I ALWAYS use a torque wrench for everything, if there is a spec in the manual. Torquing things to the right tension is more than tightening fasters to the right tension, there is a lot more to it. Including what forced act on the fasteners to preventing damage to parts. In essence, using torque wrenches help your components last longer. Which is a money saver.
What to do if chain tension is too loose, but correct number of parts in chain, and wheel further as possible? PS. Great simple tutorials, very much needed. Thanks!
a tip though, you need to loosen the rear brake connection if your bike uses rear drum brake. loosen it before adjusting the wheels. oh and if the marking is faded or cannot be relied upon, first tighten the chain side, and loosen the adjuster on the other side. then you tighten the wheel nut, if your adjuster can slide freely without binding, the adjuster on the non chain side will straighten itself automatically. after that, you tighten the adjuster on the non chain side. make sure chain slack is appropriately set.
Another great vid Ari. How about a video on setting dynamic and static suspension sag? It would also be great to know how to properly set suspension damping. I see a lot of guys/gals riding bikes not properly adjusted for their body weight and riding style.
Hi Ari, I would suggest you for the next episode of MC Garage to explain the whole procedure in details of the install of a new engine mapping on the dyno. It would be even better if you can show all these steps getting done for real. Thanks !
Good tips Ari although you missed a very important point, which is that you should be adjusting your chain to the TIGHTEST part you can find. If you cannot bring the tightest part of the chain in spec and still have the other parts of the chain be in spec, then it means it's time for a new chain soon although you can probably get away with it for a couple thousand more miles.
Can you do a video about setting tire pressures for different roads example track, twisties, commuting. I have always set to factory specs on sticker but am learning that many use considerably less pressure at the dragon here. Would be nice to learn where to begin adjusting pressure for conditions thanks.
I would like to know too, I used to put less pressure because I thought it evens the tire out more so it doesn't wear out as quick but my mechanic thinks otherwise plus he says it opens the grooves more for better traction in the wet.
As a rule, use less pressure if : the weather and tarmac is hot, or the tire is going to get a workout, like at a track, or on some decent twisties, but only if you ride hard. As the tire heats up, the air pressure inside increases. So, if you're running at regular spec, youre6going to over inflate the tire when it heats up and you'll lose traction because it'll be rock solid. Lower pressure also means the tire can flex more, putting more rubber in contact with the tarmac thus giving you more grip. My triumph spped triple pirelli rosso corsa specs are 38 psi front and 42 psi rear. I run, on the road, 32/34 front and 36/38 rear as a general rule. Just try it, see what feels okay. A less inflated front tire will be harder to turn on the street as it grips the tarmac so it might feel sketchy at first.
Hey Ari... I know you guys tend to focus on new bikes, but how about a vid with tips to help cool down a classic (or any) air cooled sport bike? My FJ1100 gets blistering in the AZ heat. I have the stock oil cooler and was thinking of replacing with a car tuner cooler or even just bolt on some PC suction fans. I'm interested to see what you guys come up with. Awesome vids... keep it up! Mike
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
For new riders attempting this, listen to what the advice he is suggesting as a 1/4 turn at a time with the adjuster nuts. A full turn or two moves the wheel a significant margin and you will know right away in the chain tension or looseness. Do one quarter turn each side. Check chain tension. Check twice. Adjust as necessary. Check chain tension. Check it twice. Adjust as necessary. The only thing I wish was the notch marks on the bike were large lines with 3 smaller lines in between the large ones for finer adjustment.
Thanks
Thanks. Mine has no markings and I was going to do 1 full turn on each side.
Thanks. I loosened them a lot. Probably too much. I don’t know really how much. My slack is high.
So you loosen both adjusters on both sides in a progressive way to bring the wheel back in an equal amount? So 1/4 - 1/4 each side then check 1/4 - 1/4 correct?
snug the locking nut then check wheel alignment?
@@izzy8609After loosening the rear axle nut, I loosen both side locking nuts and then one side at a time, I turn about 1/4. Then I turn the other side 1/4. Then I check my chain slack. I check the chain slack like 2 or 3 times to ensure I am confident with my observation. If I need to tighten more, I do 1/4 turn on the adjuster bolts, one side, then the other. Then I check my chain slack again. Once I am satisfied with my chain slack, I use a flexible (fiberglass?) tape measure with Millimeter markings to ensure my knotch marks and alignment lines are within 1mm. My bike has markings that are 5mm apart. This matches the tape measure perfectly. I line up my tape measure to the bike markings and then check the opposite side. If my alignment line is in the middle of two alignment knotches, that would be on the 3mm line of the tape measure. I ensure the opposite side is also on the 3mm tape measure line. Not the most efficient method, but it is very accurate. I also use a Milwaukee fat tape measure to measure my chain slack. I set on level surface, raise the tape measure. Identify my lowest point and highest point but the tape measure never moves. The tool in the video looks even more accurate. When done, ensure you are using two wrenches to tighen the adjuster nuts. You don't want to use one and then turn the adjuster nut a tad more. You must hold it in place while tightening the lock nut. After all that, make sure you torque the axle nut properly. Mine is 95.9ft lbs. I set for 95 ft lbs and use the last .9 to rotate the nut to where I drop the cottle pin in. The manual says 95.9, and then up to a 1/4 turn more for the cottle pin. I just don't want to over-tighten it.
Brilliant video just saved me £50 and now my gear changes are so much better. Videos like this make me want to do more work on my own bike
Been at this for literally my entire life, as in, I started riding at 9 years old and am 54 now, never not having a bike in that time. I have still never heard the rag in the sprocket trick. Thanks for that one!
Same here!
Ditto.
What does the rag help?
@@BassHeartRiffsyou can also slot the bike in 1st gear to stop the wheel movement ⚙️
would like to add that its always a good idea to adjust the tension in the tightest part of the chain, otherwise you risk over-tightening... great video as always
If the difference between the tightest and loosest parts are big, it usually also means that the chains is at the end of its life.
if you ride hard or miss just 1 lube you can easily get a stretch spot
doesn't mean your chain is ruined just a little abnormal wear it's fine if you keep an eye on it.
How do you find the tightest part in your chain?
@@bamxuberant roll the bike backwards or forwards, on the ground and you can see the chain tightening a little then relaxing. Where its tightest measure from there.
As with most maintenance jobs, the manual will tell you not only what the slack should be, but exactly where on the chain to measure this slack. You can see it if you pause at 1:19, the manual shows you precisely what to do.
1:22 this is correct but it’s important to spin the wheel and measure the slack when the chain is at its tightest point during the rotation meaning find the tightest point and then take your measurement per most manuals
Even though I have seen numerous other videos of how to adjust chain, I would still watch Ari how to do it!
Good vid, one of the most important bike maintenance that many riders over-look.
Liked the 69 tribute on the side, RIP Nicky Hayden.
i have a mate who is quite new to the motorbike scene and i got him onto your channel... your vids are so basic and easy to follow man. thanks and keep them coming
Ari Henning Can you please make a video on aftermarket air filters and aftermarket piggy bank ecu,how they affect the engine and should one install an aftermarket airfilter without a piggy bank ecu ?
Didnt realize I had to push down on chain when taking 1st measurment. Learn something new everyday
Does your chain hang low?
Does it wobble to and fro?
Can you tie it in a knot?
Can you tie it in a bow?
If you answered 'yes' to any of these questions, then this video is for you
thank you for this
Is this a parody of a song
Keith Cozart bit late but its
Do your balls hang low
Do they wobble to the floor
Can you tie them in a knot
Can you tie them in a bow
L lol
Can you throw it over your shoulder just to show em you're a soldier?
Nice touch adding the Kentucky Kid sticker. He will be missed.
Saw that right away. My bike is a 2004 RC51 with Nicky Hayden's signature on the tank. Still hard to believe.
Bob Peterson the first thing I saw in the start
me too - rip Kentucky kid :(
Rossi was better
@@deathtroopers4345 so, we'll be talking about how much we miss him and how good he was when he dies, too. until then, get your qualifying in order, rossi, dammit. quartararo is showing everyone up on a satellite yamaha
Wait... An american guy using the metric system?!
I LOVE YOU. You are awesome!
A lot of us are moving more towards metric bro, I've been using metric for a while now
@@randysavage1997good submit to the metric cult.
@@powerlink_provider ok now I'm not doing it anymore
love these videos. Short, easy to understand and massively useful. Cheers!
I can't tell you how many times I've referred to this video. This is one of the best videos ever made period. So helpful. Thank you guys a ton!
Clean and lube chain first. Take a short ride. Chain will slack even more after lubing. Then adjust. I found this out when I adjusted first then lubed,. chain got loose, went back and had to re-adjust.
Correct. I faced it
No. It's called wear and tear no matter how long the ride
Not true
Sk2PPer
Ya i agree. I don’t think your chain can extend by a significant amount by just spraying some lube on it.
Um.... how can a chain slack after applying some lube?
Better to drive first, and then clean and lube while the chain is warm. Then adjust between spec mid and minimum slack.
I'm looking forward to the video showing the alternate methods for aligning your rear wheel straight to the bike. Love the vids, Cheers!
I'm just starting to realize how important maintenance really is to a top performing motorcycle. My chain was hanging low and did wobble to and fro.
it is funny how I was about to do this procedure for the first time tomorrow, and this video pops out :D
This guy did it all in 3 minutes and i couldn't even get one bolt out for 2 hours
Ahmed Mukhtar hahahaha,hats off bro.😜😂🤣
I hear ya. These guys make it look so easy. I seriously think I lack a single mechanical gene in me.
Awesome stuff Ari! What about a vid on steering dampers and how they operate?
Great video, especially the part about putting the rag in the sprocket to pull the wheel back on the end plates. I've struggled with that for years.
Can you explain the rag trick? It seems on my TU250X putting a rag between the chain and sprocket/axle actually pushes the axle forward away from the adjustment bolts.
Thank you for this video, I'm a few hundred miles in with my first bike, it seemed like it's time to adjust the chain. Gonna do it first thing in the morning.
I wanted to say thank you for the video. I had to keep readjusting and readjusting. Once you have the chain tightened the right side will move when you are tightening the axel nut, keep the wheel pressed where you need it to be as you tighten or it will move and throw off your measurements. Took me three times doing this to figure this out. But taking the measurement was the best method.
Someone has been going ham on that Z125... check out that rear tyre! lol
aye, it's amusing how hard little bikes can be pushed, of course, it'll get murdered on the straights!
Thanks. Your video clarified a few steps that were not explained well in either my BMW manual OR the Haynes manual.
check and adjust every 500 miles?!?!? that's a days ride! lol
CW Gillan LOL I panicked at that
More check than adjust. Only adjust if you need to
That is why you should buy a Cobbra nemo 2 automatic chain luber.
lol i said the same thing... I am at about 1,500 on my new bike... I was like dang I am well overdue... Lol, I always check it though it is doing pretty good still.
I thought the same thing haha
Appriciate the information and simplicity of this video. Thank you
Another very informative vid! Good job guys! I like the trick with the rag. Need to try that next time. I think a good topic to cover would be suspension. I feel that suspension adjustments are a very underrated necessity to getting the optimal performance / handling setting out of your bike.
Holy crap getting that chain slack tool. What a great thing.
Instructions unclear, I left my wife
Seems like the instructions were pretty clear then
😂
Is everything ok at home my guy?
Are you into men? Drop your britches around me and you’ll be howling at the moon 🤩
"Good enough isn't gonna cut it"
Good advice may god and Jesus Christ bless you all 🙏🏾 and thank you for the advice.
Thank you! I'm still a newbie at this...and I want to do this by myself instead of sending it to the shop.
Great video. I was just checking that I had it right. Now the old zx6r is ready to rock! 🏍
Not having ridden a chain bike in some years - I needed this refresher!! Thanks.
Great, short, to the point videos. Thank you.
It's good to see a video with my exact same bike.
"Complex, high level mathematics" lol
it's complicated for me, I don't know where he got 40-5 from?
Barry Weaver I have no idea either
@@barryweaver8833 He took two measurements, one from the bottom of the swingarm straight down to the horizontal midline of the chain (pins or rivets or whatever those are called) when the chain was stretched to it's maximum (40mm), then another when the chain was pressed as close to the swingarm as possible (5mm). Subtract the difference and your chain slack is 35mm.
@@andrewgalloway8012 So in this video a Z125 is used it looks like in the final measurement he pushed the chain all the way up against the bottom of the swingarm. Does that mean for Z125 and the groms the final measurement will always be the same since it always tops out against the swingarm? Cause on mine if cant touch the swingarm its way too tight.
@@joshuahusebye1333 I would measure it anyways, just in case it does end up being too tight.
Question is: how much force should one use when raising the chain? I have heard different things and there will be a big difference in stopping at first resistance vs applying more force
I am coming from a video from 'Fab Motorbikes' and he said the upper section of the chain should not be moving while you are raising/lowering the lower section. With Ari's measurement on 1:35 it was moving. Bike manual doesn't say anything also. I am lost on this one.
@ fab motorbikes is most likely right. Otherwise you are taking or adding slack from the upper side as the tension changes. It's also in line with what the picture in the manual/swingarm shows so I assume that's the way.
@@Mech.EYou don't need slack on the upper side. All of the slack is going to be on one side when you're riding. If you leave slack up top, your slack measurement is going to be tighter than the actual number.
best bike videos on the net hands down!!!
its the little things what makes this channle so nice
Thanks Ari, your videos are simply excellent.
Hi Ari.
Could you make a video on the pros and cons of changing the bikes gearing? (Front and rear sprockets)
There is a special segment on a RUclips program called MOTOVUDU, the application is basically exactly the same as a ten speed push bike say with two cogs on front and some sprockets on rear..
Just got a bike after 40 years hiatus. What the hell would I do without Motorcyclist Magazine?
Oh, it's the ultimate modern fartknocker bike, a CTX700. I'm diggin' it.
lOVE YOU GUYS ...KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK...YOUR DOING A LARGE FAVOR TO THE NEW RIDERS :D
Always excellent knowledge in all of your vid's.Thanks alot mate.
The rag trick is a good idea. Never thought about that.
Is it necessary, though? I've never seen/heard of it until now, so I've never done it. Want to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong.
Amazing... The best expanatiin ever on youtube keep going bro
Thanks man it’s really help me do it for the first time 🙌🏻
best video on the topic I've found.
to add to the very good video, chain slack can vary at different points of the chain. so if it varies too much (too loose and tight at same time), time to change the chain.
and do better chain maintenance
If it's got Ari or Zack, it gets a like
To get the measurement I open the jaw of an adjustable spanner/wrench to the desired distance…instant measuring tool that is easy to hold . Thanks for the video, from England
wow so many steps to adjust a simple chain
1:37 you lost me
Also check the manual for slack reference. Its not always the middle of the chain, on some models you use lower and upper point of the chain as the reference.
Thanks again for another great video especially for someone coming from being a Guzzi shaft driver lol 😂
Love these videos Ari, keep up the great work!
Just be aware that not in all bikes you do the lack measurement midway between the front and rear sprocket. The Yamaha manual for my Tenere 700 is taken closer to the rear sprocket than the front. And it’s not done from the very bottom of the swing arm to the middle of the chain link, but rather from the bottom of the plastic chain slider to the middle of the chain link.
I like that you suggested to look at the repair manual. I have seen videos of people adjusting the chain on a T7 with the wheel up, the manual says to do it with the wheel on the ground and on the side stand.
One thing though, due to my training and field, I ALWAYS use a torque wrench for everything, if there is a spec in the manual. Torquing things to the right tension is more than tightening fasters to the right tension, there is a lot more to it. Including what forced act on the fasteners to preventing damage to parts. In essence, using torque wrenches help your components last longer. Which is a money saver.
I followed the instructions and it worked! Thanks
The best video out there -straight to the point. After several videos i'm convinced. You got a subscriber buddy.
i find this guy like nice but kinda scary at the same time. like a father.
Thanks for the link to the slacksetter it will go nicely with my motion pro chain alignment tool....
finally i know the proper way to adjust my chain! tnx mc garage! 😀
What to do if chain tension is too loose, but correct number of parts in chain, and wheel further as possible?
PS. Great simple tutorials, very much needed. Thanks!
orion 310591 chains lengthen as they wear. So your chain needs replacing.
a video with rear wheel adjustment would be super appreciated.
It'll be up tomorrow ;)
Thank you!
am fairly new to all this and these videos are mad helpful cheers pal much appreciated
Those tires are shredded!!! lol someone isn’t affraid to lean
Had new tires put on my Busa and checked the chain slack when I picked the bike up. Tight as a drum!
My chain is very loose, and I was noticing it struggle with downshifts sometimes. Think I slightly stepped on it too 😬 So this will come in handy
Thx man now I don't need to ride 20 miles to my garage and bloody check the chain, I've got the tool let's do it at my own garage then.
I love these mc garage videos
keep it up
this was a great video, really helped. I was feeling a bit stupid reading the Haynes manual and not knowing what the swingarm is. thanks!
Thank you, Your videos are super helpful
No way is this video using the bike that I'm literally trying to adjust the chain on
man... i love this page
a tip though, you need to loosen the rear brake connection if your bike uses rear drum brake. loosen it before adjusting the wheels. oh and if the marking is faded or cannot be relied upon, first tighten the chain side, and loosen the adjuster on the other side. then you tighten the wheel nut, if your adjuster can slide freely without binding, the adjuster on the non chain side will straighten itself automatically. after that, you tighten the adjuster on the non chain side. make sure chain slack is appropriately set.
This helped quite a bit! Thanks for the help and the great video!
Another great vid Ari. How about a video on setting dynamic and static suspension sag? It would also be great to know how to properly set suspension damping. I see a lot of guys/gals riding bikes not properly adjusted for their body weight and riding style.
Ari! This was a much awaited diy video! Thanks :)
Simple but massively important. Thanks!
Hi Ari, I would suggest you for the next episode of MC Garage to explain the whole procedure in details of the install of a new engine mapping on the dyno. It would be even better if you can show all these steps getting done for real. Thanks !
thank you ,its so nicely explained
Great video this helped me so much
Simple, clever, thanks for the video
Liked and subscribed. Thanks for the video.
Brilliant instruction and advice. Thank you so much!
Maaaaan I love your videos ! Thankx for sharing your knowledge !!!😉
Respect to you for sharing the knowledge !
Awesome vid brother thanks a million 👍🏼
Good tips Ari although you missed a very important point, which is that you should be adjusting your chain to the TIGHTEST part you can find. If you cannot bring the tightest part of the chain in spec and still have the other parts of the chain be in spec, then it means it's time for a new chain soon although you can probably get away with it for a couple thousand more miles.
thanks bro! 5 years later you reassured a young one that he did a good job
For next MC Garage, plz explain Quick shifter and clutchless shifting.
nice explanation. and nice sticker on bike.
Can you do a video about setting tire pressures for different roads example track, twisties, commuting. I have always set to factory specs on sticker but am learning that many use considerably less pressure at the dragon here. Would be nice to learn where to begin adjusting pressure for conditions thanks.
I would like to know too, I used to put less pressure because I thought it evens the tire out more so it doesn't wear out as quick but my mechanic thinks otherwise plus he says it opens the grooves more for better traction in the wet.
Always used 32 front tyre and 36psi on the rear tyre.on big bikes And i ride all year.
As a rule, use less pressure if : the weather and tarmac is hot, or the tire is going to get a workout, like at a track, or on some decent twisties, but only if you ride hard. As the tire heats up, the air pressure inside increases. So, if you're running at regular spec, youre6going to over inflate the tire when it heats up and you'll lose traction because it'll be rock solid. Lower pressure also means the tire can flex more, putting more rubber in contact with the tarmac thus giving you more grip. My triumph spped triple pirelli rosso corsa specs are 38 psi front and 42 psi rear. I run, on the road, 32/34 front and 36/38 rear as a general rule. Just try it, see what feels okay. A less inflated front tire will be harder to turn on the street as it grips the tarmac so it might feel sketchy at first.
Why minus?so you pull down first?
Brilliant job.
I'd love to watch a new video on how to break in the engine of your brand new bike. Please make one video. Thank you 😊😊😊
I hope on your next video you will explain about carburetor vs fuel injected and how they work on a motorcycle.
Hey Ari... I know you guys tend to focus on new bikes, but how about a vid with tips to help cool down a classic (or any) air cooled sport bike? My FJ1100 gets blistering in the AZ heat. I have the stock oil cooler and was thinking of replacing with a car tuner cooler or even just bolt on some PC suction fans. I'm interested to see what you guys come up with. Awesome vids... keep it up! Mike
Perfect. Thank you.
very informative
great video
thanks
Do your chain hang low? / Do it wobble to da flow? / Do it shine in the light?
Moto Noob Is it platinum is it gold?
I paint mine pink, cause I'm that bold.
YzfR6 can you throw it over your shoulder?
Does it make you wanna fight