Thank you so much! Thanks to your clear and thoroughly detailed explanation, we were able to repair the door and parasitic drain! So much money was saved. You are amazing!
Thank you for your video. I just ordered a replacement latch as it could not be cleaned. Battery dies after 2 days. It was quite easy to remove. My door bussed on and off for 2 years. When the buzzing stopped my battery died. Replaced the motor, not the latch. Still battery died. Took out latch found out it was broken.
I went to Honda to find the battery drain. They said it was the passenger's sliding door. So, I got a quote from them to fix both sliding doors... Control Unit for sliding doors (failing) $1620.35, Driving sliding door motor - failed $1,248.00, Passenger sliding door release actuator failing $859.32, Latch on passenger sliding door malfunction $1,049.99
Thank you for the thorough and clear video. My son & I took this on for our 2007 Odyssey with exactly this issue. The sliding mechanism was definitely gummy. It took us approx 3 hours. Unfortunately after the fix our siding door doesn't auto-open but the battery drain seems fixed. I started the van the next day and it turned over fine. We think that when the problem started with the parasitic drain it burned something out because the circuit was open so long.. maybe a fuse? switch? gotta find another youTube video. But a least our battery is saved and we can drive it.
Glad to hear you were able to fix the parasitic drain! That's the more inconvenient problem in my opinion, so it's good that the process fixed at least that. If you haven't already, you may want to try resetting the doors by removing fuse 7 in the driver's side fuse panel as shown in this video from Barbour's Auto Help: ruclips.net/video/xUy1s8g6hck/видео.htmlsi=PnSQc_mMNIiexy4f.
I.followed your video instructions removed , cleaned and oiled the mechanism on oth doors. The driver side worked fine for about a year and is now not working at all. Parasitic drain has returned and the power feature does not work at all. The weird thing is that when the power door switch is off it and when i close it the door tries to suck in but then releases. Im going to remove the mechanism again and try to clean and re-oil it, basicly the same repair, i guess i have to check the other actuators and rubber peices... any other advice welcome?.
Is there anyway to bypass the switches so they always think the door is closed so they wont drain? I dont want automatic doors anymore. What about zip tieing the switch shut or twisting the wites together or cutting the wire or what??
To be perfectly honest, I'm not sure if there's a way to bypass the switches in the way you describe. The most likely thing to happen if you were to fix the switches closed is that the closer mechanism would cease to work properly, but don't take my word for it. The best solution to bypass the doors is to simply remove the infamous fuse #7 on the driver's side interior fuse panel, which will disable the automatic doors and several other functions that normally work with the key out of the ignition, such as locking the doors and having the interior lights automatically come on.
@@hanspooleremoving the #7 fuse it will still drain the battery I measured with a multimeter it stops the constant draining but it still looks for a signal every few seconds. The odyssey forum also noticed this. I would really like to bypass them hmm 🤔 I will do some testing and let you know
That is a great question, and to be perfectly honest, I don’t know precisely what it does. I do know that by removing it you can effectively reset the sliding door control module thingies, which can temporarily solve the problem of the door not responding in any way. Removing that fuse also eliminates the parasitic drain, at the expense of disabling the doors and several other circuits.
Unfortunately, I do not know the name of that piece. I tried looking up "door jamb switch plate", but nothing close showed up. However, I think you might be able to find the part name and number if you look at exploded diagrams of the door. Good luck!
Thank you so much! Thanks to your clear and thoroughly detailed explanation, we were able to repair the door and parasitic drain! So much money was saved. You are amazing!
You're very welcome!
I wish you had more odyssey videos. You are smart and present well. Thanx for your time
Thanks for the update!
Thank you for your video. I just ordered a replacement latch as it could not be cleaned. Battery dies after 2 days. It was quite easy to remove. My door bussed on and off for 2 years. When the buzzing stopped my battery died. Replaced the motor, not the latch. Still battery died. Took out latch found out it was broken.
I went to Honda to find the battery drain. They said it was the passenger's sliding door. So, I got a quote from them to fix both sliding doors... Control Unit for sliding doors (failing) $1620.35, Driving sliding door motor - failed $1,248.00, Passenger sliding door release actuator failing $859.32, Latch on passenger sliding door malfunction $1,049.99
Thank you for the thorough and clear video. My son & I took this on for our 2007 Odyssey with exactly this issue. The sliding mechanism was definitely gummy. It took us approx 3 hours. Unfortunately after the fix our siding door doesn't auto-open but the battery drain seems fixed. I started the van the next day and it turned over fine. We think that when the problem started with the parasitic drain it burned something out because the circuit was open so long.. maybe a fuse? switch? gotta find another youTube video. But a least our battery is saved and we can drive it.
Glad to hear you were able to fix the parasitic drain! That's the more inconvenient problem in my opinion, so it's good that the process fixed at least that. If you haven't already, you may want to try resetting the doors by removing fuse 7 in the driver's side fuse panel as shown in this video from Barbour's Auto Help: ruclips.net/video/xUy1s8g6hck/видео.htmlsi=PnSQc_mMNIiexy4f.
I.followed your video instructions removed , cleaned and oiled the mechanism on oth doors. The driver side worked fine for about a year and is now not working at all. Parasitic drain has returned and the power feature does not work at all. The weird thing is that when the power door switch is off it and when i close it the door tries to suck in but then releases. Im going to remove the mechanism again and try to clean and re-oil it, basicly the same repair, i guess i have to check the other actuators and rubber peices... any other advice welcome?.
It worked for me but I get a side door light a lot and my passenger slider stops to work until I pull fuse 7 each time
Thanks.
Is there anyway to bypass the switches so they always think the door is closed so they wont drain? I dont want automatic doors anymore. What about zip tieing the switch shut or twisting the wites together or cutting the wire or what??
To be perfectly honest, I'm not sure if there's a way to bypass the switches in the way you describe. The most likely thing to happen if you were to fix the switches closed is that the closer mechanism would cease to work properly, but don't take my word for it. The best solution to bypass the doors is to simply remove the infamous fuse #7 on the driver's side interior fuse panel, which will disable the automatic doors and several other functions that normally work with the key out of the ignition, such as locking the doors and having the interior lights automatically come on.
@@hanspooleremoving the #7 fuse it will still drain the battery I measured with a multimeter it stops the constant draining but it still looks for a signal every few seconds. The odyssey forum also noticed this. I would really like to bypass them hmm 🤔 I will do some testing and let you know
Why do you remove fuse 7 for the door sliding problem? I didn't catch the reason. What is the purpose of the fuse?
That is a great question, and to be perfectly honest, I don’t know precisely what it does. I do know that by removing it you can effectively reset the sliding door control module thingies, which can temporarily solve the problem of the door not responding in any way.
Removing that fuse also eliminates the parasitic drain, at the expense of disabling the doors and several other circuits.
What sort of grease would you use here? Or silicone spray?
@@hanspoole Good deal. Thank you.
you might want to replace the rollers
i did for my van and my brother
@@hanspoole geniune parts ? cuz we replaced ours over 4 years ago and still good
my right door switch is bad as well draining battery
@@hanspoole i mean the roller mechanism
oem last longer
6:11 do you know what they call this piece? Im missing them on both sides
Unfortunately, I do not know the name of that piece. I tried looking up "door jamb switch plate", but nothing close showed up. However, I think you might be able to find the part name and number if you look at exploded diagrams of the door. Good luck!