Thanks! Bought a 2008 Odyssey EXL brand new and now has 213,872 miles as of today and is on its third kiddo learning to drive on it who use to be a baby riding in it. We live in Texas so no rust but leaking like a siv due to all the rubber and seals dried out. Just sealed everything up and appreciating the video as a guide.
Well I have a new driver my last driver so I need this van to last three more years and if it does survive them I’m probably just going to donate it to a cousin who just got married and has one on the way and probably in three years we’ll have a second on the way and I’m sure they could use the van. I Just replaced the rack and pinion as well as pretty much all of the steering components which cost me about $5000 so at this point this vehicle is ready to go another 150,000 maybe even 200,000 miles.
@@IdTaken99 I can't put a link but here is the sealant I used. 3M 5200 Marine Sealant - 10 oz, White I checked on it back in April 2024 because we have had more ran than ever before here in Texas this last couple of months, and it literally is as hard (and feels like) metal. Not a drop has gotten in that van the entire spring. The Odyssey is doing great!
This is by far the best video on the topic, THANK YOU. I am adding this video to my ULTIMATE HONDA ODYSSEY FOR VANLIFE playlist. I plan to do a follow up video for anyone interested, including: VCM disable, fluids change, spark plug and coil replacement, motor mounts, sliding door reset, seat removal, etc etc. Videos on all these topics are already grouped in a playlist on my channel if you care to just watch all the same vids I watched. Once again THANK YOU to Million Mile Garage (and sorry for the spam in your comments LOL) 😎👍😎👍
My retired U.S.M.C veteran father gave me this recently after my stepmother's passing. I have only driven this a few times since October. And, the first thing I noticed when I got in and put my seat belt on was that it was soaked, as well as the lower compartment. Then I last weekend I drove it to my little cousins funeral memorial service and the windshield inside was soaked and fogged up, it had been raining here in the Great Smoky Mountains. My seat belt was soaked, again, and I noticed that pungent smell. I thought how can I just seal the sunroof up, because that is where I thought it came from. Then, today, after watching your wonderful expertise video, I investigated from back to front. And, when I lifted those seats up in the back and saw the floor, it was all soaked and moldy. So, I started cleaning. I do not have a garage. Can you send me exactly step by step, with the numbers of what I need to make this sweet gift from my U.S.M.C father happy that I did this on my own. I am a single mother, son 30s, and my beautiful grandkiddos live in Yellow Springs, Ohio. I truly appreciate you and all your comments who follow you for excellent advice. Thank you, ❤ Tina Mills
thanks for the feedback...about to go to the store to buy the seal you recommended...weather in Beantown (Boston) going to be nice the rest of the week so going to take advantage and get fixed.
Thank youuu! So that's why my backpack got wet last week and luckily I had my passport in a plastic safe file in my backpack. A great Sunday project, but I will use gloves! :)
Awesome. I didn't know what to do. I'm getting a little leaking on the driver's side pillar, right behind the driver's seat. I'm going to do this for sure. I'll reseal the entire van. Take care of your vehicles and they'll run for a very long time. It'll save you lots of money.
Thank you, sir. I have the wet seatbelt, and also the intermittent electrical issues caused by the seam leaking. I wasn't sure how to do the job, especially the trim, so I appreciate the video.
Thanks for this in-depth video. I didn't do too much research but saw one other video that didn't answer my question regarding how to deal with removing the trim, especially when dealing with the front clip near the windshield. You didn't show that in too much detail, but you did show how to remove the trim from that (pull the rail back). I also appreciate your advice regarding 3m 5200. That's important, as I'd probably have just gone with a big tube of standard silicone rtv. Thanks again.
Pee Dee You can also rock it back and forth like a see saw while lifting up on both ends, a little upward pressure with a screwdriver on the short end by the windshield will remove the clip with the trim in one step.
@@millionmilegarage9587 O.k., thanks. I think I'd still want to pull the rail out backward before I tried that: I simply can't see the arrangement of that front clip. With my luck something would break if I did the see saw method.
I completed this job on my Odyssey. I used 3m 4200 Fast Cure. It's also a sealant but less of a mechanical adhesive than the 5200. The Fast Cure is supposed to skin in 1 hr and cure completely in 24 hrs. Because I don't have a garage it was a better choice for me, as I have frequent rain in my area. 5200 is also available in a Fast Cure, but finding black (instead of white) was an issue. Concerning the clips it is important to state that they are NOT designed for reuse. If you happen to get them off without breaking them you are lucky. The rails can potentially be slid off them (and then you'd need a pick to work them off of their threaded studs), but the black caps on the end of the rails cannot reasonably be removed, hence good luck angling the rails and pulling them to get the free end to slide off. Without pictures or decent video covering this aspect it's the kind of thing that you'll only understand once you open the system up. In my removal attempts at least 3 of the 4 broke and/or were already partly broken. Better to just have 4 new replacement clips on hand. Honda part # 91501-SM5-A00
Thank you for this video! I was able to replace the old rotten molding with new molding & seal the seams on my 2008 Odyssey. The worst part was dealing with the sticky silicon. But I got it done!
Just wanted to thank u for this video. SO very helpful. Fixed the leaky spots on our new to us 2007 Ody EXL. Didn't use 3M. Used Amazing Goop (Marine), that is clear, instead. Replaced old ditch moldings with new.
@@48success I got them on Ebay back in 2021. This was the product title back then: "Honda 2005-2018 vehicles 2pcs Flexible CARBON FIBER ROOF TRIM Molding Kit" Price: $41.54
Doug Hurst I used clear silicone years ago on the 70’s cars. I had a rear window job on a 79 Camaro that had been sealed with silicone and rotted out the trough where the glass set in. Once the silicone lifts a little, it traps moisture and feeds the rust monster. Window did not leak for years until the metal under the silicone was gone. Based on my past experiences if the surface is free of ANY contaminants the bath silicone will hold ok.
Thank you for sharing! I just ordered the black 3M 5200 off amazon and new covers /clips from bernardiparts (not too expensive) and am ready to go once the parts all arrive!
Thanks for this video. Such an annoying leak on this vehicle. I’m going to give this a shot with butyl tape instead of the silicone. Have a roll in the garage and seems it may be perfect and quick. Just fixed an oil leak known to plague odysseys as well.
If the rubber has come off the ditch covers, should we just buy new ones for the van? The wind got them flapping and we just ripped them off of the metal thinking it would not make a difference. We were stupid. Here came all the leaks. Live and learn. Thanks for your help.
Dang those were terrible looking welds. I just had leaking in my 19yr old civic. Thought it was the rubbers. After check some vids I've found very small cracks near the end. Thanks for showing also to check the mold line on top
Thanks for this video! Nice explanation. I had the dreaded wet MICU problem, causing overnight battery drain, random alarm, VSA and ABS lights, random lights coming on with key out of ignition. I suspect it’s getting wet for this reason. I fixed (dried and cleaned) the MICU and the van is now working perfectly. Wish I had shot a video like yours to help others.
Million Mile Garage I just finished this job tonight. It was made much easier after seeing your video. Pretty much only a 1 hr job on the one side (not including cure time of course). Thanks again!
Thanks for posting this. I found the rear seat well was flooded and had no idea why. We also have strange intermittent electrical problems. I am amazed that Honda has produced such a faulty design and production. I used a sealant along the roof rack channels and the rear weld lines under the hatch. That seemed to solve the leak problem.
Leaks are a universal problem on most vehicle once they hit the ten year old mark. The 70’s stuff was pretty tough to diagnose with all of the hidden folds of sheet metal covered in mastic sealant. Had a wet footwell on the passenger side of both my second gen. Camaros that took a couple months to figure out when they were ten year old cars. The Duster had some awful design flaws that caused all sorts of cowl leaks into the passenger area, one of which resulted in water dripping on the drivers feet when the wipers ran, another leaked right on top of the fuse box, good times. There’s a reason why they don’t build them like they used too🙂
@@millionmilegarage9587 I had sealed the roof on our Odyssey about a month ago. After a number of heavy rains I am glad to report, no leak! Thanks again.
This is very helpful and in the process now w/a 2006 Honda Odyssey Touring. Do we need to replace the roof rack? Would like to leave it off and use weather stripping/other appropriate material instead. Recommendations appreciated. Thank you.
Pretty sure you can do a roof rack delete, just buy new moldings for the base vehicle, I think they are one piece per side instead of four and get extra clips.
Thanks for this video. Best one I've seen. When I put back the front left roof molding, it didn't sit right. I covered all the cracks on the seam but worried about the windshield and roof joint because there is a decent gap between the roof molding and the roof. I don't think that should matter but wanted to ask here
Azfer Saeed A gap where the roof molding meets the body will not cause leaks. Water will find it’s way under the molding, it’s the seams where the roof is welded together that leak. No worries.
I don't remember if this video covers this, but I do know it from somewhere: there is a gap at the front of the channels where they join the windshield SO THAT water can drain. The leak issues on our Odysseys are mainly due to the seams leaking. Therefore, if the seams are sealed as per this video - and not utterly gooped up, which would lead to water pooling in the channels which is no good - then when it rains the water cannot penetrate the seams and will run out the front and back sides of the channel. Any blocking of the front and back will lead to water pooling, which is not good. So, make sure that gap at the front, where the windshield and roof join each other is not blocked with gunk. Mine had minimal gunk in there, I still made a point of picking it out. Again, that gap is an exit point for water.
👍 thanks for the info. Wish I knew this 3yrs ago when I bought body. The previous owner just put silicone glue from front to back on top of the molding. Well now I have a rusted mess on my hands. Looks like I'm in the market for lessons on rust removal and Bondo application. Wish me luck.🙃🙄
@@millionmilegarage9587 I'm sure rust all the way through. I sounds bad when I press on it. I'm afraid to look. I keep blowing the third brake bulb the plate lights got a short in it too.
Great video - especially compared to others that are out there. I got up the courage to tackle my 2008 roof problems and am now waiting for the rain ! I have to say the 3M 5200 can make quite a mess, even if you try to be careful!
Well, it rained and the roof leaked. The leak is pretty much on the passenger side of the car at the top of the columns where the seatbelts are. So, I tried fixing it again w/ the sealant. And it is still leaking! (I think from the area where the screws are in the roof rack). Any suggestions? Thanks.
Virginia Wiener leaks can be stubborn. Was this the only place leaking before the repair? Try wetting the suspected area and observe for leaks. Carefully inspect your previous work, even the tiniest void can let water in. If equipped: Check the sunroof and the sunroof jamb after a rain. Check the seams in the sliding door jamb overhead and the door seals. Continue to wet any suspected area with a garden hose and observe for leaks until you find it.
@@millionmilegarage9587 - Wanted to report that the leaky roof is fixed! I used a lot of sealant especially around the roof rack bolts and no more leak! thanks for all your advice -
Ps i did see some one else use permatex. Some kind of liquid form silicon which runs into small cracks more easily. Plus it's clear, that looks nice. But as you said this seal will stand ages of time 😎
Rombout Versluijs We used the 5200 to seal a boat transom and it has held up to flexing, submersion and gasoline without failure, I have never seen silicone survive that kind of abuse. Nearly 40 yrs ago as a youngster working in a body shop we used a black gooey tar type sealer, it stuck to everything but eventually they dry out and leak. Silicone needs a very clean surface or it will lift ,trap moisture and create a bigger mess of rust and rot later.
I usually dip my finger in alcohol when I "finger trowel" silicon caulk around my tub, so the caulk doesn't stick to my finger. Not sure if it will work with this particular caulk. Thanks for the great video!
It’s Urethane, not sure alcohol contact is a good idea, may actually stop curing process. I chose this product because it sticks better than most silicones, especially less than perfectly clean surfaces and tends to hold up better over time without lifting and trapping moisture, causing rust outs.
Good video. Thank you. Do you also have one about water filling up the inside of the tailgate and leaking out all along the bottom including through the latch? One note about caulking or sealing. On your next job try pushing the tube forward while applying sealer rather than dragging it. I believe you will have better results as far as getting it into the cracks.
I have not encountered the tailgate leak yet but: There are several potential leak points that you can troubleshoot. The wiper arm shaft, the glass seal, the tail lights, license plate surround, the spoiler mounts and of course the hatch seal just off the top of my head. Start at lowest potential leak point and work your way up with a garden house. May make it easier to pull the plastic off on the backside of the hatch to see where the water is coming in.
Hi great and informative video. A thumbs up for me. My rubber molding has broken apart I would have to remove it do they sell the rubber molding separate?
I have a 14 Ram 1500 did something similar to that. But I scrubbing clean the areas where I was sealing, dusted off everything and cleaned the area with grease and wax remover. I do Auto glass replacement and see that problem on lots of vehicles
Thanks for the video. very helpful. Can you tell me how the weatherstrip attaches to the metal molding that it covers? Does it just snap in place? My weatherstrip ('06 Odyssey) has dry rotted and the section on the passenger side in front of the roof rail is flapping in the wind, literally. The metal molding I can see underneath looks intact. Just need to know if I can purchase replacement weatherstripping alone and how it attaches to the metal molding strip underneath. TIA.
For some reason the card for this video is not on the leak video anymore. Posting here: ruclips.net/video/clcybJl3VUQ/видео.html. Also, you can re-attach the rubber to the metal with 5200. The last couple minutes of the leak video shows how I revived the trim. It is still available from Honda as new, about $110. Last time I priced it.
@@millionmilegarage9587 Thanks. It makes sense that reattaching dry rotting weatherstripping would require some adhesive silicone caulk. I guess what I'm wondering is, if I were to purchase new weatherstripping, do I have to attach using adhesive caulk or does it snap into place on top of or around the metal molding that it covers? Sorry if I was unclear. Also, you mention several days for your caulk to fully cure, but that it's waterproof within 24 hours. Does that mean I can reassemble everything after 24 hours. I don't have a covered garage to work in, so would need to cover the vehicle for at least 24 hours I suppose. Thanks for the assistance.
rss968 A new ditch molding is a complete ready to install unit with rubber molded over an aluminum extrusion. 5200 doesn’t really wash off, in fact you can install it under the waterline (underwater), moisture speeds the cure. You just don’t want to leave it out in a heavy rain for several hours or blast with a water house until it has at least 24 hrs to cure. 5200 also comes in a fast cure, you have less working time and it may not self level as well but it is tack free in 2 hours and fully cures in 48 hours.
@@millionmilegarage9587 Very helpful. Sounds like I can re-install after at least 24 hours without harming the curing process. Can cover with tarp overnight. If the ditch molding is all one piece (rubber over aluminum), I wonder why they get different parts numbers. For example, the parts diagram shows one solid piece that appears to run the full length of the left roof that is labeled "molding assy, L roof" part #74316-SHJ-A01. Then there is another 4 piece set that I know is the weatherstrip also labeled "molding assy, L roof" part #74316-SHJ--A21. I assume the solid piece is the aluminum extrusion and the 4 piece set is the rubber weatherstrip, but why the different part numbers? Honda's got me confused on this.
I appreciate this content, thank you. It would seem that Honda didn't really expect us to be owning their cars beyond the ten year mark, or perhaps they would have chosen a better design; come up with better ways to drain water from the sunroof instead of tubes buried in the pillars. I have a not only an odyssey, but an accord coupe as well, and it is drowning in water, and now I'm thinking that the water puddled in the seat wells under the rear seats is coming from the same roof seal. Spot welding the side frame to the roof, with a bead of seam sealer between the two, at the edge of the roof line!! Can you believe they didn't know that this was going to be a problem? That seam being where it is, right on the roof, is asking for leaks.
@@charlesluck8921 Yeah, I don’t miss that, we lived on the Treasure Coast for nearly thirty years up until about five years ago. All it does is rain down there. Hope Ian is a no show.
I called Honda and they want to charge about 500 dollars to fix roof leak. I tried other place and same estimate. I actually did this 2 or 3 years ago and it did work for about a year and so, but now again on both sides I see water marks from B to C pillar. I am debating on what to do now. Most people think is the sunroof leak, but I poured water on the rear channels and it come out well from the drain tubes.
I have never had the sun roof leak. Best thing to do is sit in it while an assistant dowses it with water and look for the leaks. If you used silicone to fix the leak previously that is probably where your leak is again. That stuff will lift on you over time especially if it was not PERFECTLY cleaned before application.
Awesome video thanks ....I have a question. when you are pulling down the sealant and you get to the windshield area do you put a bead across the windshield area or just stop at the end and not cover the windshield area(its like the width of the molding)
Good question, my focus was on covering the sheet metal seams that were cracked, I may have/would meet the windshield where the ditch dead ends. I kind of remember there is a little area designed to let water drain from the ditch in that area, I avoided covering that up entirely.
I'm pretty sure I need to do this because mold, but I've also had the water leak out from the lift gate when I opened it. Very bottom by latch. Wondering if this will be a total fix.
Hi! Thanks for the video! I was was wondering how you the cleaned the inside, specifically the roof liner and seatbelt area, after fixing the leak? Also, did you just clean out the gunk under the rails by hand or did you use a special device or cleaner? Thx!
Hi Whitney, I put a little Febreeze on the seat belts to kill the sour smell, sunlight works good too. I never did clean the stains on the headliner, guessing oxyclean or something like that would work. I used soapy water and a toothbrush to clean off the seam seal trough area, avoid using anything caustic like bleach that could corrode the sheet metal.
Thank you! My 07 van got soaked in the recent rains and it’s time to do some waterproofing. How long did you let your van dry out before you did the work?
The surfaces that are getting sealer only need to be dry, it really depends on the conditions, in bright sunlight the seams should pretty dry within an hour or so of cleaning. Results vary, 3M cures under water so a little moisture won’t hurt, silicone based sealers need a very dry surface.
Good information. I don't have roof rack in my 2014 odyssey, but I've seen water sitting in my passenger sliding door. any suggestion where to starts? dealer want me to spend 1500 to change all the rubbers which i wouldn't want to spent. TIA
Awais Khokhar Pretty sure the 14’ model still has a ditch molding covering up the same seam, with or without roof rack. Try doing a visual from inside the vehicle with an assistant hitting it with a garden hose, you should at least be able to confirm if it’s the door seals.
Thanks for this video, it's exactly what I need but have a question. How many tubes of 5200 should I buy to do exactly what's in this video? Not sure if I should buy one or two. Thanks.
Question. We are having a leak on both sides of the A Post at the drivers seat and passenger seat. Our van has a sunroof and I suspect that this is where our leak is occurring. Did you experience this with your van? Did yours have a sunroof? Thanks!
@@stephenhair5501 Yes it has a sunroof, no I did not experience that issue. The sunroof has a a surround with a drain in it in case the sunroof lets some water in due to being open (by design) and I would think also collect water if the seal around the glass to opening leaks. If the drain for that area gets plugged it could flood over into the vehicle causing what you described. Should be pretty easy to troubleshoot by doing a visual around those areas. As always, this is just my opinion and results vary.
I finally found some new molding at the junk yard (mine peeled off), so I am going to do this at the same time as replacing the molding. Do I need more than one tube of 5200?
I think the factory part numbers are listed in the description, if they are discontinued than your only recourse is the secondary markets, eBay, salvage yards, parking lots😄, etc.
Thanks for sharing this video. How's the repair holding up? Having almost the same issues with the seatbelt getting wet and the rear hatch area on my '06 and am prob going to tackle this as soon as we get some dry weather again.
SEDACE Hi, no leaks since the repair. Left sit outside up here where it rains for days at a time. No more wet carpets or seatbelts. Make sure you have a torx bit tool long enough to reach the center screws on the luggage rack.
SEDACE I have not experienced leaks at tailgate on light openings but on the quarter panel mounted lights, the ones not on the tailgate, there is a pass thru grommet/seal that can get unseated when servicing tail light bulbs which can create a leak path.
@@sedace6734 out in Cali it doesn't rain too much but this last storm I had a little over a gallon of water inside the rear door. Was yours entering from the lights?
@@1socalhiker Haven't had a chance to really investigate the rear door part, the water getting into the rear hatch floor appears to be coming in from the roof rail seam, follows down the roof line near the rear drivers side window, and can see it where the rear floor jack compartment is before it ends up on the floor. I had to re-do some of the seam sealing last week because it was still getting in during heavy rain, not sure if I have it solved or not yet.
Does anyone know if it's a problem to seal the end of the ditch closed at the end where it meets the windshield? Not sure whether to seal it off or leave it open to let water drain down around the windshield. If it's sealed it seems like it would just temporarily hold a small amount of water, but it would keep water from getting under the windshield and possibly leaking there.
I don’t think the factory sealed it up so would try to duplicate what they did. If the roof is sealed up tight it won’t matter if it doesn’t drain. Having standing water under the ditch molding for extended periods may contribute to a rust out later on. On a daily driver that does not sit too long between trips it probably doesn’t matter much.
When you say it's a 7 day cure, does that mean you can't reinstall the roof rails for 7 days? Or can you immediately reinstall them after you are done?
You could install the rails back on without waiting. Moisture also speeds the cure. Would not leave it out in the rain for a few hours until it starts to skin over a bit.
@@millionmilegarage9587 and how exactly did you clean the channel? Did you use soap and water or acetone? I just want to make sure I have this all correct
Wilson Guzman I used dish soap, a rag and an old toothbrush to remove any stubborn crud. 5200 is not as sensitive as silicone when it comes to surface prep but it still should be clean with no slimy residue.
I used 3M 5200 because it is not as fussy as most RTV sealers when it comes to surface prep. I don’t know what self leveling rv is, assuming you meant RTV or silicone which could also be used.
@@millionmilegarage9587 I just got a 2010 oddesey and it is leaking on both sides. One side through where the air bag is driver side by windshield and the passenger side above seat belts and headliner. I thought the passenger side was coming from sliding door but we caulked that with the black caulk you used. It still leaks so I ordered the black strip on top for both sides. Mine are rotted away and now just a silver strip is there that's just floating. There doesn't seem to be any drain holes in that valley so I didn't think that was where the leak was from but apparently it is so I'll caulk it to. Question? So I remove that silver strip, caulk and replace and put the black strip over it all? Do I use caulk in between? I'm from Florida as well. High Springs.
Mamaw Life Our Odyssey is from Florida as well! If you do just like I did it in the video it should be successful. The black ditch moldings are cosmetic pieces and do not need to be glued in place. Just put enough sealer on to cover the old seams before installing the new moldings. I chose to wait until I leak tested before re-installing trim as those retainer clips are easily damaged.
So a 10 oz stick at $35 for a 2004 that may not make it another year maybe able to just use GE All Purpose Silicone Caulk - 100% Waterproof Silicone Sealant, Stronger Adhesion, Freeze & Sun Proof for $7. Thoughts anyone?
In my opinion nothing has worked better for me than the 5200 but what you suggest would work. It’s been 3 years and my van is still sealed up tighter than Fort Knox.
Rombout Versluijs Yes, it probably leaked for several months, it’s a garage kept vehicle so it didn’t see a lot of soaking rains. We first noticed it the day after driving home in a hard rain and the seat belts were wet the next morning and smelled sour. I remember thinking how bizarre that the carpets aren’t wet except for the rear trunk well, that’s when it struck me that it must be a massive seam leaking.
I have a brand new 2024 Odyssey with 5000 miles and it is leaking through ceiling front above driver seat - raining on my head as I drive - unacceptable
Quick question. If I didn’t want to take off both roof racks. For fear of not getting them put back on correctly on my 2003 Ody van. I do have a steady hand if I just sealed around those roof racks and then sealed the areas when I open van hatch. Let me know when you get a chance Thanks so much.
I would advise against doing that, it is really best to apply directly over the seams where the roof is welded together. The method you propose will trap moisture under the trim. At best it may slow the leak for a while. Also, while not shown in my video a plastic putty knife can remove the trim, just be careful with dry rubber and hardened clips.
Thanks! Bought a 2008 Odyssey EXL brand new and now has 213,872 miles as of today and is on its third kiddo learning to drive on it who use to be a baby riding in it. We live in Texas so no rust but leaking like a siv due to all the rubber and seals dried out. Just sealed everything up and appreciating the video as a guide.
Great story! Glad to hear another Odyssey gets a new lease on life, maybe your Grandkids will end up driving it too!
Well I have a new driver my last driver so I need this van to last three more years and if it does survive them I’m probably just going to donate it to a cousin who just got married and has one on the way and probably in three years we’ll have a second on the way and I’m sure they could use the van. I Just replaced the rack and pinion as well as pretty much all of the steering components which cost me about $5000 so at this point this vehicle is ready to go another 150,000 maybe even 200,000 miles.
Can you share the part# and website where did you buy the part..thanks
@@SuperSnakePlissken I met an Uber driver who told me his 2003 Odyssey lasted 400,000 miles. I've got a little under 200,000 before I get there.
@@IdTaken99 I can't put a link but here is the sealant I used. 3M 5200 Marine Sealant - 10 oz, White
I checked on it back in April 2024 because we have had more ran than ever before here in Texas this last couple of months, and it literally is as hard (and feels like) metal. Not a drop has gotten in that van the entire spring. The Odyssey is doing great!
This is by far the best video on the topic, THANK YOU. I am adding this video to my ULTIMATE HONDA ODYSSEY FOR VANLIFE playlist. I plan to do a follow up video for anyone interested, including: VCM disable, fluids change, spark plug and coil replacement, motor mounts, sliding door reset, seat removal, etc etc. Videos on all these topics are already grouped in a playlist on my channel if you care to just watch all the same vids I watched. Once again THANK YOU to Million Mile Garage (and sorry for the spam in your comments LOL) 😎👍😎👍
my 2007 van has been suffering but not anymore after watching this amazing video...thank you 👍
I have this issue with my 2007 Odyssey on the passenger side, thanks for the video. And I love the doggo in the passenger seat. Added bonus.
Just did this on our 2010 over the weekend. Waiting for the sealant to cure more before reinstalling the roof rack.
Do you need to wait before reinstalling the roof rack ?
Great video.... I've always felt this should have been a recall by Honda.
Many thanks for taking the time to make this video. IT was very helpful in figuring out how to get to the leak problem in my Ody!
Doyle Redwine Thanks for the kind words. I hope you get many more years out of your Ody!🙂
I watched a couple of other vids on this and you were the only one who did it properly. Great camera shots and specific instructions on the repair.
My retired U.S.M.C veteran father gave me this recently after my stepmother's passing. I have only driven this a few times since October. And, the first thing I noticed when I got in and put my seat belt on was that it was soaked, as well as the lower compartment. Then I last weekend I drove it to my little cousins funeral memorial service and the windshield inside was soaked and fogged up, it had been raining here in the Great Smoky Mountains. My seat belt was soaked, again, and I noticed that pungent smell. I thought how can I just seal the sunroof up, because that is where I thought it came from. Then, today, after watching your wonderful expertise video, I investigated from back to front. And, when I lifted those seats up in the back and saw the floor, it was all soaked and moldy. So, I started cleaning. I do not have a garage. Can you send me exactly step by step, with the numbers of what I need to make this sweet gift from my U.S.M.C father happy that I did this on my own. I am a single mother, son 30s, and my beautiful grandkiddos live in Yellow Springs, Ohio. I truly appreciate you and all your comments who follow you for excellent advice. Thank you, ❤ Tina Mills
thanks for the feedback...about to go to the store to buy the seal you recommended...weather in Beantown (Boston) going to be nice the rest of the week so going to take advantage and get fixed.
I currently got this problem on my 2008 honda crv. Not good here in the uk where it rains most of the year. Thanks for showing this fix. 👍
I and my 2002 Odyssey thank you for taking the time and effort to post this!
Thank youuu! So that's why my backpack got wet last week and luckily I had my passport in a plastic safe file in my backpack. A great Sunday project, but I will use gloves! :)
Thank you so much for this video! Came outside to my 2004 odessey FLOODED😢. This is a lifesaver!
Awesome. I didn't know what to do. I'm getting a little leaking on the driver's side pillar, right behind the driver's seat. I'm going to do this for sure. I'll reseal the entire van. Take care of your vehicles and they'll run for a very long time. It'll save you lots of money.
Thank you, sir. I have the wet seatbelt, and also the intermittent electrical issues caused by the seam leaking. I wasn't sure how to do the job, especially the trim, so I appreciate the video.
Thanks for this in-depth video. I didn't do too much research but saw one other video that didn't answer my question regarding how to deal with removing the trim, especially when dealing with the front clip near the windshield. You didn't show that in too much detail, but you did show how to remove the trim from that (pull the rail back). I also appreciate your advice regarding 3m 5200. That's important, as I'd probably have just gone with a big tube of standard silicone rtv. Thanks again.
Pee Dee You can also rock it back and forth like a see saw while lifting up on both ends, a little upward pressure with a screwdriver on the short end by the windshield will remove the clip with the trim in one step.
@@millionmilegarage9587 O.k., thanks. I think I'd still want to pull the rail out backward before I tried that: I simply can't see the arrangement of that front clip. With my luck something would break if I did the see saw method.
I completed this job on my Odyssey. I used 3m 4200 Fast Cure. It's also a sealant but less of a mechanical adhesive than the 5200. The Fast Cure is supposed to skin in 1 hr and cure completely in 24 hrs. Because I don't have a garage it was a better choice for me, as I have frequent rain in my area. 5200 is also available in a Fast Cure, but finding black (instead of white) was an issue.
Concerning the clips it is important to state that they are NOT designed for reuse. If you happen to get them off without breaking them you are lucky. The rails can potentially be slid off them (and then you'd need a pick to work them off of their threaded studs), but the black caps on the end of the rails cannot reasonably be removed, hence good luck angling the rails and pulling them to get the free end to slide off. Without pictures or decent video covering this aspect it's the kind of thing that you'll only understand once you open the system up. In my removal attempts at least 3 of the 4 broke and/or were already partly broken. Better to just have 4 new replacement clips on hand.
Honda part # 91501-SM5-A00
@@peedee4065 thanks for the part number
@@azfersaeed1602 You're welcome, good luck!
About to do my 2008 odyssey tomorrow. I’ve been having this leak by my seatbelt and it’s driving me nuts so I’m going to take care of it tomorrow.
Thank you for this video! I was able to replace the old rotten molding with new molding & seal the seams on my 2008 Odyssey. The worst part was dealing with the sticky silicon. But I got it done!
Awesome Windy, glad to hear that it worked out for you! Another Odyssey saved!
Great video just bought a 07 and noticed some water thought it was the sunroof guess I've got some work to do this summer
Just wanted to thank u for this video. SO very helpful. Fixed the leaky spots on our new to us 2007 Ody EXL. Didn't use 3M. Used Amazing Goop (Marine), that is clear, instead. Replaced old ditch moldings with new.
Where did you get those?
How much were the new ditch moldings...a few hundred bucks? Did you buy original Honda Odyssey parts or aftermarket?
@@48success I got them on Ebay back in 2021. This was the product title back then: "Honda 2005-2018 vehicles 2pcs Flexible CARBON FIBER ROOF TRIM Molding Kit" Price: $41.54
Nice video! This happened to our van about 5 years ago. I used bath silicone and it's still holding up.
Doug Hurst I used clear silicone years ago on the 70’s cars. I had a rear window job on a 79 Camaro that had been sealed with silicone and rotted out the trough where the glass set in. Once the silicone lifts a little, it traps moisture and feeds the rust monster. Window did not leak for years until the metal under the silicone was gone. Based on my past experiences if the surface is free of ANY contaminants the bath silicone will hold ok.
Thank you for sharing! I just ordered the black 3M 5200 off amazon and new covers /clips from bernardiparts (not too expensive) and am ready to go once the parts all arrive!
Awesome! Luck favors the prepared, you should have success.
Thanks brother! Saved me a load of time while doing this in the winter months in Canada.
Alex 143 Awesome! You just gave that van a new lease on life.🙂
A year later, it's still good. Thankyou! Now if you could fix my fuel problem!
LOL!!! We all have a fuel problem right now don’t we?🙂
Thanks for this video. Such an annoying leak on this vehicle. I’m going to give this a shot with butyl tape instead of the silicone. Have a roll in the garage and seems it may be perfect and quick. Just fixed an oil leak known to plague odysseys as well.
If the rubber has come off the ditch covers, should we just buy new ones for the van? The wind got them flapping and we just ripped them off of the metal thinking it would not make a difference. We were stupid. Here came all the leaks. Live and learn. Thanks for your help.
Yes, new ones or salvage yard score or just peel the rubber off and paint them black. There will be slight gaps without rubber cover.
Dang those were terrible looking welds. I just had leaking in my 19yr old civic. Thought it was the rubbers. After check some vids I've found very small cracks near the end. Thanks for showing also to check the mold line on top
Fantastic Video!!! I'm going Lowes tonight the get the 3M 5200
Thank so much for sharing. You helped me a lot. Same problem with a 2010 Odyssey. Thank you. Thumbs up!
Awesome video! Great detail and step by step instructions. Thanks
Thank you very much for making this video! Now I know what to do to fix my van.
Thanks for this video! Nice explanation.
I had the dreaded wet MICU problem, causing overnight battery drain, random alarm, VSA and ABS lights, random lights coming on with key out of ignition. I suspect it’s getting wet for this reason.
I fixed (dried and cleaned) the MICU and the van is now working perfectly. Wish I had shot a video like yours to help others.
jotacalvo You have to keep them dry inside for sure! I hope it works out for you! Thanks for your comments🙂
I have the same problem that you listed.. How did you fix the electrical problem? Thanks!
Million Mile Garage I just finished this job tonight. It was made much easier after seeing your video. Pretty much only a 1 hr job on the one side (not including cure time of course). Thanks again!
Thanks for posting this. I found the rear seat well was flooded and had no idea why. We also have strange intermittent electrical problems. I am amazed that Honda has produced such a faulty design and production. I used a sealant along the roof rack channels and the rear weld lines under the hatch. That seemed to solve the leak problem.
Leaks are a universal problem on most vehicle once they hit the ten year old mark. The 70’s stuff was pretty tough to diagnose with all of the hidden folds of sheet metal covered in mastic sealant. Had a wet footwell on the passenger side of both my second gen. Camaros that took a couple months to figure out when they were ten year old cars. The Duster had some awful design flaws that caused all sorts of cowl leaks into the passenger area, one of which resulted in water dripping on the drivers feet when the wipers ran, another leaked right on top of the fuse box, good times. There’s a reason why they don’t build them like they used too🙂
@@millionmilegarage9587 I had sealed the roof on our Odyssey about a month ago. After a number of heavy rains I am glad to report, no leak! Thanks again.
@@scottyrocket9did you get any electrical issues after fixing the leak?
@@KCBAnon Hard to tell it it's related- The rear window wiper turns on when the front wipers are on, even though the rear is not on.
Great and very useful video. Thanks for doing this. You were very clear.
2008 thank you Going to fix mine this weekend
This is very helpful and in the process now w/a 2006 Honda Odyssey Touring. Do we need to replace the roof rack? Would like to leave it off and use weather stripping/other appropriate material instead. Recommendations appreciated. Thank you.
Pretty sure you can do a roof rack delete, just buy new moldings for the base vehicle, I think they are one piece per side instead of four and get extra clips.
Thanks for this video. Best one I've seen. When I put back the front left roof molding, it didn't sit right. I covered all the cracks on the seam but worried about the windshield and roof joint because there is a decent gap between the roof molding and the roof. I don't think that should matter but wanted to ask here
Azfer Saeed A gap where the roof molding meets the body will not cause leaks. Water will find it’s way under the molding, it’s the seams where the roof is welded together that leak. No worries.
I don't remember if this video covers this, but I do know it from somewhere: there is a gap at the front of the channels where they join the windshield SO THAT water can drain. The leak issues on our Odysseys are mainly due to the seams leaking. Therefore, if the seams are sealed as per this video - and not utterly gooped up, which would lead to water pooling in the channels which is no good - then when it rains the water cannot penetrate the seams and will run out the front and back sides of the channel. Any blocking of the front and back will lead to water pooling, which is not good. So, make sure that gap at the front, where the windshield and roof join each other is not blocked with gunk. Mine had minimal gunk in there, I still made a point of picking it out. Again, that gap is an exit point for water.
👍 thanks for the info.
Wish I knew this 3yrs ago when I bought body. The previous owner just put silicone glue from front to back on top of the molding.
Well now I have a rusted mess on my hands. Looks like I'm in the market for lessons on rust removal and Bondo application. Wish me luck.🙃🙄
That sucks, hopefully the rust is not all the way through.
@@millionmilegarage9587 I'm sure rust all the way through. I sounds bad when I press on it. I'm afraid to look. I keep blowing the third brake bulb the plate lights got a short in it too.
Thank you so much for this video, will fix my 2005
Great video - especially compared to others that are out there. I got up the courage to tackle my 2008 roof problems and am now waiting for the rain ! I have to say the 3M 5200 can make quite a mess, even if you try to be careful!
Glad it worked out! Yes, 5200 can be messy, very sticky stuff. Just wipe it off where you don’t want it, once cured it is hard to remove!
Well, it rained and the roof leaked. The leak is pretty much on the passenger side of the car at the top of the columns where the seatbelts are. So, I tried fixing it again w/ the sealant. And it is still leaking! (I think from the area where the screws are in the roof rack). Any suggestions? Thanks.
Virginia Wiener leaks can be stubborn. Was this the only place leaking before the repair? Try wetting the suspected area and observe for leaks. Carefully inspect your previous work, even the tiniest void can let water in. If equipped: Check the sunroof and the sunroof jamb after a rain. Check the seams in the sliding door jamb overhead and the door seals. Continue to wet any suspected area with a garden hose and observe for leaks until you find it.
@@millionmilegarage9587 - Wanted to report that the leaky roof is fixed! I used a lot of sealant especially around the roof rack bolts and no more leak! thanks for all your advice -
Ps i did see some one else use permatex. Some kind of liquid form silicon which runs into small cracks more easily. Plus it's clear, that looks nice. But as you said this seal will stand ages of time 😎
Rombout Versluijs We used the 5200 to seal a boat transom and it has held up to flexing, submersion and gasoline without failure, I have never seen silicone survive that kind of abuse. Nearly 40 yrs ago as a youngster working in a body shop we used a black gooey tar type sealer, it stuck to everything but eventually they dry out and leak. Silicone needs a very clean surface or it will lift ,trap moisture and create a bigger mess of rust and rot later.
I usually dip my finger in alcohol when I "finger trowel" silicon caulk around my tub, so the caulk doesn't stick to my finger. Not sure if it will work with this particular caulk.
Thanks for the great video!
It’s Urethane, not sure alcohol contact is a good idea, may actually stop curing process. I chose this product because it sticks better than most silicones, especially less than perfectly clean surfaces and tends to hold up better over time without lifting and trapping moisture, causing rust outs.
Little late but you sure it’s not the rear hvac drain,draining into the car instead of under it?
Thanks. very helpful video. I have the exact same problem in the same spot.
Thank you very much mister.
Good video. Thank you. Do you also have one about water filling up the inside of the tailgate and leaking out all along the bottom including through the latch?
One note about caulking or sealing. On your next job try pushing the tube forward while applying sealer rather than dragging it. I believe you will have better results as far as getting it into the cracks.
I have not encountered the tailgate leak yet but: There are several potential leak points that you can troubleshoot. The wiper arm shaft, the glass seal, the tail lights, license plate surround, the spoiler mounts and of course the hatch seal just off the top of my head. Start at lowest potential leak point and work your way up with a garden house. May make it easier to pull the plastic off on the backside of the hatch to see where the water is coming in.
Hi great and informative video. A thumbs up for me. My rubber molding has broken apart I would have to remove it do they sell the rubber molding separate?
Yes, pretty sure you can still buy new ones, it’s a dealership thing.
This helped me a lot. Thank you!
Thank you for posting the video!!!
I have a 14 Ram 1500 did something similar to that. But I scrubbing clean the areas where I was sealing, dusted off everything and cleaned the area with grease and wax remover. I do Auto glass replacement and see that problem on lots of vehicles
Yep, the cleaner the better, 5200 is a lot more forgiving than silicone in that respect hence the reason I use it.
Very clean Job. I like it.
Instructions say that this is used for Bonding/Sealing of Gelcoat/fiberglass and wood.
This is great! I'm now waiting for it to rain to see if I fix my issue 🤞
Hi Sara, if it has been 24 hours dowse it with a water house and see what happens, just don’t blast it.
@@millionmilegarage9587 I'll check it out this weekend. I live in a heavy rain area so I'm sure it will be tested soon haha
Thanks for the video. very helpful. Can you tell me how the weatherstrip attaches to the metal molding that it covers? Does it just snap in place? My weatherstrip ('06 Odyssey) has dry rotted and the section on the passenger side in front of the roof rail is flapping in the wind, literally. The metal molding I can see underneath looks intact. Just need to know if I can purchase replacement weatherstripping alone and how it attaches to the metal molding strip underneath. TIA.
For some reason the card for this video is not on the leak video anymore. Posting here: ruclips.net/video/clcybJl3VUQ/видео.html. Also, you can re-attach the rubber to the metal with 5200. The last couple minutes of the leak video shows how I revived the trim. It is still available from Honda as new, about $110. Last time I priced it.
@@millionmilegarage9587 Thanks. It makes sense that reattaching dry rotting weatherstripping would require some adhesive silicone caulk. I guess what I'm wondering is, if I were to purchase new weatherstripping, do I have to attach using adhesive caulk or does it snap into place on top of or around the metal molding that it covers? Sorry if I was unclear. Also, you mention several days for your caulk to fully cure, but that it's waterproof within 24 hours. Does that mean I can reassemble everything after 24 hours. I don't have a covered garage to work in, so would need to cover the vehicle for at least 24 hours I suppose. Thanks for the assistance.
rss968 A new ditch molding is a complete ready to install unit with rubber molded over an aluminum extrusion. 5200 doesn’t really wash off, in fact you can install it under the waterline (underwater), moisture speeds the cure. You just don’t want to leave it out in a heavy rain for several hours or blast with a water house until it has at least 24 hrs to cure. 5200 also comes in a fast cure, you have less working time and it may not self level as well but it is tack free in 2 hours and fully cures in 48 hours.
@@millionmilegarage9587 Very helpful. Sounds like I can re-install after at least 24 hours without harming the curing process. Can cover with tarp overnight. If the ditch molding is all one piece (rubber over aluminum), I wonder why they get different parts numbers. For example, the parts diagram shows one solid piece that appears to run the full length of the left roof that is labeled "molding assy, L roof" part #74316-SHJ-A01. Then there is another 4 piece set that I know is the weatherstrip also labeled "molding assy, L roof" part #74316-SHJ--A21. I assume the solid piece is the aluminum extrusion and the 4 piece set is the rubber weatherstrip, but why the different part numbers? Honda's got me confused on this.
rss968 Models with roof rack get the 4 piece set, w/o roof rack requires one piece running entire length of roof.
I appreciate this content, thank you. It would seem that Honda didn't really expect us to be owning their cars beyond the ten year mark, or perhaps they would have chosen a better design; come up with better ways to drain water from the sunroof instead of tubes buried in the pillars.
I have a not only an odyssey, but an accord coupe as well, and it is drowning in water, and now I'm thinking that the water puddled in the seat wells under the rear seats is coming from the same roof seal.
Spot welding the side frame to the roof, with a bead of seam sealer between the two, at the edge of the roof line!! Can you believe they didn't know that this was going to be a problem? That seam being where it is, right on the roof, is asking for leaks.
Yes it’s disappointing to be dealing with this type of problem long before the rest of the vehicle is worn out. At least it’s a relatively easy fix.
@@millionmilegarage9587 You're too kind. I haven't gotten to fixing anything yet, and it has been raining all night here in South Florida. Aaargh.
@@charlesluck8921 Yeah, I don’t miss that, we lived on the Treasure Coast for nearly thirty years up until about five years ago. All it does is rain down there. Hope Ian is a no show.
Thank you so much for your detailed video!
Thank you, I hope it helps keep your Oddy in top condition!
Excellent video. very detailed.
I called Honda and they want to charge about 500 dollars to fix roof leak. I tried other place and same estimate. I actually did this 2 or 3 years ago and it did work for about a year and so, but now again on both sides I see water marks from B to C pillar. I am debating on what to do now. Most people think is the sunroof leak, but I poured water on the rear channels and it come out well from the drain tubes.
I have never had the sun roof leak. Best thing to do is sit in it while an assistant dowses it with water and look for the leaks. If you used silicone to fix the leak previously that is probably where your leak is again. That stuff will lift on you over time especially if it was not PERFECTLY cleaned before application.
Awesome video thanks ....I have a question. when you are pulling down the sealant and you get to the windshield area do you put a bead across the windshield area or just stop at the end and not cover the windshield area(its like the width of the molding)
Good question, my focus was on covering the sheet metal seams that were cracked, I may have/would meet the windshield where the ditch dead ends. I kind of remember there is a little area designed to let water drain from the ditch in that area, I avoided covering that up entirely.
I'm pretty sure I need to do this because mold, but I've also had the water leak out from the lift gate when I opened it. Very bottom by latch. Wondering if this will be a total fix.
Really thanks, great video very useful
You’re doing a great job thank you
Hi! Thanks for the video! I was was wondering how you the cleaned the inside, specifically the roof liner and seatbelt area, after fixing the leak? Also, did you just clean out the gunk under the rails by hand or did you use a special device or cleaner? Thx!
Hi Whitney, I put a little Febreeze on the seat belts to kill the sour smell, sunlight works good too. I never did clean the stains on the headliner, guessing oxyclean or something like that would work. I used soapy water and a toothbrush to clean off the seam seal trough area, avoid using anything caustic like bleach that could corrode the sheet metal.
Thanks.. Im going to do this soon.
Thank you! My 07 van got soaked in the recent rains and it’s time to do some waterproofing. How long did you let your van dry out before you did the work?
The surfaces that are getting sealer only need to be dry, it really depends on the conditions, in bright sunlight the seams should pretty dry within an hour or so of cleaning. Results vary, 3M cures under water so a little moisture won’t hurt, silicone based sealers need a very dry surface.
Is one 10 oz tube of 5200 enough? I was also consider Loctite PL S40 since it’s cheaper and readily available at local hardware store.
@@diamondruler503 I think a 10 ouncer would be enough, have no idea what Loctite PL S40 is and as always results vary!🙂
Good information. I don't have roof rack in my 2014 odyssey, but I've seen water sitting in my passenger sliding door. any suggestion where to starts? dealer want me to spend 1500 to change all the rubbers which i wouldn't want to spent. TIA
Awais Khokhar Pretty sure the 14’ model still has a ditch molding covering up the same seam, with or without roof rack. Try doing a visual from inside the vehicle with an assistant hitting it with a garden hose, you should at least be able to confirm if it’s the door seals.
Thanks for this video, it's exactly what I need but have a question. How many tubes of 5200 should I buy to do exactly what's in this video? Not sure if I should buy one or two. Thanks.
One tube like the ones shown in video will suffice (caulk gun sized). I think there was link in description.
@@millionmilegarage9587 Great. Thank you!
Question. We are having a leak on both sides of the A Post at the drivers seat and passenger seat. Our van has a sunroof and I suspect that this is where our leak is occurring. Did you experience this with your van? Did yours have a sunroof? Thanks!
@@stephenhair5501 Yes it has a sunroof, no I did not experience that issue. The sunroof has a a surround with a drain in it in case the sunroof lets some water in due to being open (by design) and I would think also collect water if the seal around the glass to opening leaks. If the drain for that area gets plugged it could flood over into the vehicle causing what you described. Should be pretty easy to troubleshoot by doing a visual around those areas. As always, this is just my opinion and results vary.
Very good explain thanks a lot
I hope it works out for you!
I finally found some new molding at the junk yard (mine peeled off), so I am going to do this at the same time as replacing the molding. Do I need more than one tube of 5200?
One tube should do it and then some.
Did that work?
What sealant did you use, just bought a 2008 Honda Odyssey and discovered a leak.
3M 5200
Where do you source the roof molding? It doesn't appear to be sold anymore.
I think the factory part numbers are listed in the description, if they are discontinued than your only recourse is the secondary markets, eBay, salvage yards, parking lots😄, etc.
Thanks for sharing this video. How's the repair holding up? Having almost the same issues with the seatbelt getting wet and the rear hatch area on my '06 and am prob going to tackle this as soon as we get some dry weather again.
SEDACE Hi, no leaks since the repair. Left sit outside up here where it rains for days at a time. No more wet carpets or seatbelts. Make sure you have a torx bit tool long enough to reach the center screws on the luggage rack.
@@millionmilegarage9587 have you had any issues inside the tailgate/taillights? I need to seal those too apparently.
SEDACE I have not experienced leaks at tailgate on light openings but on the quarter panel mounted lights, the ones not on the tailgate, there is a pass thru grommet/seal that can get unseated when servicing tail light bulbs which can create a leak path.
@@sedace6734 out in Cali it doesn't rain too much but this last storm I had a little over a gallon of water inside the rear door. Was yours entering from the lights?
@@1socalhiker Haven't had a chance to really investigate the rear door part, the water getting into the rear hatch floor appears to be coming in from the roof rail seam, follows down the roof line near the rear drivers side window, and can see it where the rear floor jack compartment is before it ends up on the floor. I had to re-do some of the seam sealing last week because it was still getting in during heavy rain, not sure if I have it solved or not yet.
Thanks!!! For the quick response. I’ll try to dismantle and cross my fingers nothing snaps. Thanks for such a detailed video.
Does anyone know if it's a problem to seal the end of the ditch closed at the end where it meets the windshield? Not sure whether to seal it off or leave it open to let water drain down around the windshield. If it's sealed it seems like it would just temporarily hold a small amount of water, but it would keep water from getting under the windshield and possibly leaking there.
I don’t think the factory sealed it up so would try to duplicate what they did. If the roof is sealed up tight it won’t matter if it doesn’t drain. Having standing water under the ditch molding for extended periods may contribute to a rust out later on. On a daily driver that does not sit too long between trips it probably doesn’t matter much.
My '07 has been experiencing weird electrical problems, most likely from water ingress.
After the leak repairs hopefully it dries out enough to stop having issues.
Ever watch Earnest Goes to Jail? Specifically, the scene where he breaks the pen?
When you say it's a 7 day cure, does that mean you can't reinstall the roof rails for 7 days? Or can you immediately reinstall them after you are done?
You could install the rails back on without waiting. Moisture also speeds the cure. Would not leave it out in the rain for a few hours until it starts to skin over a bit.
@@millionmilegarage9587 and how exactly did you clean the channel? Did you use soap and water or acetone? I just want to make sure I have this all correct
Wilson Guzman I used dish soap, a rag and an old toothbrush to remove any stubborn crud. 5200 is not as sensitive as silicone when it comes to surface prep but it still should be clean with no slimy residue.
@@millionmilegarage9587 wonderful, thank you for your response, you made me feel so much better doing this myself.
Same with mine! Thanks
Dupli Color Vinyl Fabric?
Yes, pretty sure it was. And thanks for watching to the end🙂👍🏁
Can you use rv roof repair . Self leveling
I used 3M 5200 because it is not as fussy as most RTV sealers when it comes to surface prep. I don’t know what self leveling rv is, assuming you meant RTV or silicone which could also be used.
Great Video ( Thanks ) 🙏🏻
Where do you get 5200 Marine sealant besides a boat store?
Len Wehrung The Home Depot usually stocks it in white, Amazon has the black. Most Marine supply is a sure bet to have the black on the shelf.
Amazon
Seams to be more on the right hand side.
If ya want a nice edge use masking tape!
Will one tube do all the roof seams as in your video?
Yes, the caulk gun sized tube will be 3x more than you need, Perfect!
@@millionmilegarage9587 thank you for all the information.
Thanks!
Been there done that
Good video. 👍♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️
Do you take off the old caulk? Maybe I missed that part.
I didn’t scrap off the old caulk, just cleaned the surfaces thoroughly and applied.
@@millionmilegarage9587 I just got a 2010 oddesey and it is leaking on both sides. One side through where the air bag is driver side by windshield and the passenger side above seat belts and headliner. I thought the passenger side was coming from sliding door but we caulked that with the black caulk you used. It still leaks so I ordered the black strip on top for both sides. Mine are rotted away and now just a silver strip is there that's just floating. There doesn't seem to be any drain holes in that valley so I didn't think that was where the leak was from but apparently it is so I'll caulk it to. Question? So I remove that silver strip, caulk and replace and put the black strip over it all? Do I use caulk in between?
I'm from Florida as well. High Springs.
Mamaw Life Our Odyssey is from Florida as well! If you do just like I did it in the video it should be successful. The black ditch moldings are cosmetic pieces and do not need to be glued in place. Just put enough sealer on to cover the old seams before installing the new moldings. I chose to wait until I leak tested before re-installing trim as those retainer clips are easily damaged.
Not easy pressing and pulling to remove if you’ve never removed.
The clips harden with age making them more challenging to remove, as always results vary!
So a 10 oz stick at $35 for a 2004 that may not make it another year maybe able to just use GE All Purpose Silicone Caulk - 100% Waterproof Silicone Sealant, Stronger Adhesion, Freeze & Sun Proof for $7. Thoughts anyone?
In my opinion nothing has worked better for me than the 5200 but what you suggest would work. It’s been 3 years and my van is still sealed up tighter than Fort Knox.
Wonderful.
Looks like you had this issue quite while eight?
Rombout Versluijs Yes, it probably leaked for several months, it’s a garage kept vehicle so it didn’t see a lot of soaking rains. We first noticed it the day after driving home in a hard rain and the seat belts were wet the next morning and smelled sour. I remember thinking how bizarre that the carpets aren’t wet except for the rear trunk well, that’s when it struck me that it must be a massive seam leaking.
I have a brand new 2024 Odyssey with 5000 miles and it is leaking through ceiling front above driver seat - raining on my head as I drive - unacceptable
@@FrancisOliverLynn Holy Headliner that’s disappointingly Un-Honda like.
Video is way to long for the information
Your welcome.
Quick question. If I didn’t want to take off both roof racks. For fear of not getting them put back on correctly on my 2003 Ody van. I do have a steady hand if I just sealed around those roof racks and then sealed the areas when I open van hatch. Let me know when you get a chance Thanks so much.
I would advise against doing that, it is really best to apply directly over the seams where the roof is welded together. The method you propose will trap moisture under the trim. At best it may slow the leak for a while. Also, while not shown in my video a plastic putty knife can remove the trim, just be careful with dry rubber and hardened clips.