If you enjoy wargaming please check out my new channel (there might even be the odd terrain vdieo here and there) - ruclips.net/channel/UCBg2RoIvR4qiE5-S0KVsPXg
Heh I didn't coin the term or anything, but I grew up not having much money so it's something I consider a lot - thanksfully these days I am more average working class :)
It's not just WH 40k that makes you into 'Poorhammer'. I play historical and have lately gotten into WW2 wargaming. The prices for vehicles and soldiers is ridiculous. I've gotten into building paper models for the vehicles and artillery units and doing some recast minis out of hot glue from homemade molds. That's a much more affordable way to do the game. Not as detailed but I don't care. It works for me and my budget and if someone else don't want to play well I don't care about playing any ninnies who want to be jerks anyway.
@@rwdyeriii I’ve taken to using smaller figures for WW2. Lots of benefits, smaller tanks are cheaper, more room to manoeuvre and it all looks much better. In 28mm, most rules have SMG that have less range than the length of a tank. Use the same rules with 15mm and everything looks a lot better. Also it takes far less storage space which means more toys.
It looks very convincing. In the U.S. it is called premixed Spackle or sometimes just mud. You can buy it in white or pink. The pink turns white when it is dry so you know it is ready to sand. Thanks for sharing thi.
Replying super late, but my friends and family always called it spackle. The second I got into property maintenance it was exclusively called mud. Joint compound is the least common term I've heard for it. Although the specific stuff I've been using for this is called "Hole Repair" and it was left here by the last tenants. So Hole Repair is my go to for the time being haha
Your terrain piece is simply brilliant, mate. Not only did I enjoy watching your video, but I actually learned from it and am now confident that I can make my own similar pieces for my Battletech table. Thanks so much for sharing this excellent video, brother. Cheers from the USA!
Happy to help, if you wanted speed I would maybe suggest XPS foam, as they are a little quicker, but these are cheaper and obviously just card! Thank you, good luck :)
Random tip if you need to use a glue or filler with a lot of water and you're worried about warping - put it on a desk or table, put something on top that you don't mind potentially getting messy, and put a hefty book on it. It's not ideal especially for a hill as it can cause the upper layers to press down into the base, but I've never been bothered by that, and at the very least you'll have a flat base regardless. The other option that I've used is to make all but the actual base first, fill it, then add the base when that's dry, and fill that separately. Less moisture, thus less warping, and the base is thicker and more sturdy so on its own it shouldn't warp noticeably.
Thank you kindly! ~I have reduced the channels now, I jave this terrain one, and a wargaming one called Jay Oddity. That's it, it perhaps got a bit much! Thank you :)
Back in the 70s I gave tours of the architecture school at my university. They used only two pieces of foamboard to make their topography hills. Foamboard was very expensive back then. They printed the topo lines on two sheets of foam. Lets say the terrain went from 0 to 30 units high. They cut one piece of foam on every 5 unit line (5, 15, 25) and the other piece on every 0 unit line (0, 10, 20, 30). Then they aligned the 5 unit strip along the 5 unit line on the base and glued it down. Then they aligned the 10 unit strip along the 10 unit line on the 5 unit strip and glued it down. The back of the model was hollow, so they stacked cheap cardboard squares to use as support under the model.
If I understand that correctly, you could make these hills with less material and make them hollow, but I think there's no real need, unless you are desperate. And you could deffo do this hile using foam board, probably look better!
Correct. For your project you would have made three rings and the top piece. Stack them up and glue them. Way back then the architects' foamboard was an unbelievable $25 per sheet, so minimizing the piece count for students was necessary. Also if you're cutting a lot of cardboard, foam, or plastic, check out this video to up your cutting game. ruclips.net/video/SgCam8t3670/видео.html
I am planning to build some sandstone spires with a dry desert theme. Once I have them done, I will post some pictures on facebook. Thx for all the cheap terrain ideas.
Heh thanks, I've just made a bunker out of card as well. Card is such a great material just because it is so readily available, really the main thing these builds cost is time!
Good job been doing this for years now and it works well! Just a note that you can keep one edge the same profile on each layer whilst making the others smaller so you get your steps on one, two or three sides depending what you want whilst having a face on the other. I also use smaller profiles under larger ones to get an undercut if you want and arches and caves are a doddle to do too. Cardboard something lock down has left me swimming in great for hills - I use epvc for basing personally although that is a cost - or for scatter pieces old CDs and DVDs that get donated from family and friends :D
Epv is my fav basing material, I just wanted to show that even cardboard can look decent. I'm sure people could make much better stuff, I just show the basics :)
This same principle can also be used to create protruding rocks, boulders, and even standing stones. Stack many small layers of cardboard, then spackle the sides to create that rocky texture.
Great video. I’ve not played warhammer since I was around 12 but now 23 I’ve got back into just painting figures and I’ve been wanting to make scenes and displays. Will be watching more of your videos ! Cheers
I support Poorhammer! I also suggest anyone considering paiper mache to check out TheDMsCraft's video on paiper mache hills. DM Scotty started with similar cardboard pieces, added wet paper kitchen towel, a bit of bog roll, and water and PVA glue. The way he does it comes out very hard and tends not to suffer warping. It made a more gentle hill than the Poorhammer Hill. And yes, the DAP Wallboard Joint Compound is pretty much the same thing you're using here for us Americans. Might also use wood filler (Plastic Wood-X also by DAP) for the same purpose. Spacklle also works about the same. Different stuff, but it all works out about the same for filling edges of cardboard to get rid of the edges. I've used all three-whatever I can most easily get. A tube of wood filler won't be enough for this kind of thing, get a tub.
Yep DM Scotty is a legend. I don't think I've seen his hill but I'm sure it's great. The wetness would have me worrying about warping but I'm sure it's fine. Thanks for the info
@@TerrainMadeEasy I should have a load of it spare once I craft my sons mandalorian armour! 😇 But till then I live by the sea for free stones/sand and I work in a kitchen and get spare cardboard every week so "Unlimited Power" just need the paints!! 😂
Looks good! I made a set of desert hills in a similar fashion. I think they look decent, but I wanted them tall enough to block LOS for vehicles and that took a lot of cutting and gluing.
Yeah I wouldn't go much bigger than the one I did for that reason. It's just constant cutting and gluing. They look good for the price though. I'd love to see yours, maybe post on Facebook group?
While the material might not be ideal, making terrain from corrugated cardboard is a good idea. Especially if you order your hobby stuff online and it's delivered in a corrugated cardboard box. It's like they're thrown in some terrain for free.
Great job showing easy terrain building with simple materials. I only found your channel recently and really enjoying your videos. Well done and thanks for doing videos. 👍
Been watching a bunch of YT tutorials tonight on making miniature stuff. This is the first that I've commented on. That looks fucking AWESOME dude. For what you put into it, your results are superb. Definitely going to follow myself.
Hey, I love your terrain videos! You said in this video about adding sand and you say 'any sand will do' can I even use sand I've collected from the beach?
Thanks Brit! That gave me some new ideas. Great way to use all the package boxes. I'm trying to decide how to make a gentle sloping hill for a 1/32 diorama of The Battle of Bunker Hill, or properly Breed's Hill. Breed's Hill was 62 feet high with a slope , on the side was a dirt road running through it to Bunker Hill. I have a good map of the original topography and want this to be as actual as I can make it. In the future it might be used in a middle school American History class, or club. I want to look at all situations of the battle from the American Colonial to the British and what could have changed the outcome for both sides. So, after all that, can you do another video possibly showing how to make a gentle sloping hill to a rise with cardboard? That would be great. Thanks chap, appreciate it!
That's a great way to start if my kids n I don't like it then I've only wasted cardboard and filler and a bit of paint etc I wanna try diorama so this is great good job🤟
Hot-glue verses PVA: PVA for small parts, but for large areas, like with the hill layers, hot-glue is better because PVA will make the card wet and shrinks when dry, so can warp large flat areas.
First, joint compound and spackle are 2 different things. I've worked in construction and building repair for a long time trust me when I say there's a difference. J.C. is used as the 1st layer with sheetrock and to put down the tape on the joints and it contains a lot more water than spackle. I personally prefer the blue lid spackle from USG as it contains less water and therefore shrinks less once dry, or in this case, has less of a chance of warping the cardboard. 2nd, going forward when using cardboard I'd recommend taking the step to spray paint your project with either "Kilz primer/sealer/stain killer" or "Zinnser 1-2-3 stain killer/sealer and primer", operative word in both being "sealer". Once it's been sealed there are no worries about warpage as the moisture can no longer get to the cardboard. Just make sure to spray it all the way around, allowing dry time going from top to bottom unless you hang it while spraying it.
@@elscotty21 yes, seal it with the products mentioned to water proof. But cardboard may not hold up under the weight of spackle long term as spackle, being gypsum, is basically a liquified stone that dries into said stone ultimately. And you should also know that if you put spackle on too thickly it will crack and have difficulty drying fully
Going to make some of these for sure. Trying to make an icy frozen rocky world and have made some things following your tutorials but I'm really scared to paint any of it fearing I'll ruin the stuff I made. Can't really see any tutorials for painting icy waste land stuff, what would you do for that?
You can either paint it white with like a blue wash, so the whole thing is a blueish white, with a white dry brush. Or You can cover it all in snow. I wouldn't just paint it white if that make sense.
Paint it white. add a blue wash, add a very thin purple wash in the deepest parts. Drybrush white again, and put a gloss varnish layer over it. You'll have a nice shiney "wet" sheet of 'ice'. Then put white fluff here and there, stuff to simulate snow on top of the ice and break up the shine. Add some regular rocks to your liking, and maybe some brownish dirt in between layers.
I'm not sure if anyone mentioned it or was thought of, but I'd say maybe using the dual/thicker cardboard might work a little easier? :) Keep up the awesome work!
Fucking killer recommendation to use spackling for filler. I was stumped to today, trying to figure out how to cover gaps and holes in a bunch of corigated hard plastic. And let's just say the small tub I bought for a $1 a few months ago has found a new purpose besides helping me move.
Hey, Erm why would I do a new one? I might at some point do a larger one, but it would bethe same method. Lots of stuff you can do using the same kind of technique though
Thats looks amazing too :) what i wanted to ask that do u, use cheaper paints for terrain rather than your usual mini paints( like citadel, vallejo, army painter ect.) and if u do whats your recommendation? ohh and whats your recepi for your black wash? (begginer on the other side sry if that stuff is common knowledge) :)
Thanks. I always use cheap craft paints, or testor pots for house paints! I would never suggest using mini paints (maybe in tiny details). Artists acrylic paints are medium in terms of price, the cheapest paints are little testor pots for house paints. Get black, brown and grey and you can do a lot of terrain. For the wash, I often just use like a small dab of black, like a tiny tiny bit of black paint, and just water! To go a bit fancier you could add a one drop of dish soap (will help it flow - you could use flow aid) and like 90% water. Hard to be exact There's more advance methods using mat medium and black ink and proper flow aid, but the cheap one is pretty decent!
Really good video thanks just getting introduced to table top gaming really interested in any advice or guidance towards middle earth sbg terrain please.
Glad you mention the warping issue with the card... hot glue ftw! I graduated years ago to poly on mdf bases... 0 warpage lol But great tutorial none the less... terrain never gets old for me.
@@TerrainMadeEasy yeah I plan on using cardboard after my bad experience with styrofoam tho I plan on covering everything with the filler that u mentioned and then apply the sculptamold
@@TerrainMadeEasy Thanks man! I've got a bunch of old boxes around the house that are that type of cardboard thats white on one side, any advice on using that? I'm worried paint wont adhere to it
Making your own. So the cheapest way is to try and get some sawdust for free (from any wood place), and then simply mixing it with paint. You could also maybe blend up I think upholstery foam....I would youtube this as I haven't done it myself.
Is this me talking about the flock at the end? If so, normally lets say you pva and flock, you often want to add a lyer on top to seal it in, so maybe like some sprayed water and pva with a drop of dish soap (makes it flow into the cracks), Was that it?
From context, I think this is the case. Just remember to get plain Elmer's glue, not "school glue". The latter is less effective, since it's intended for children. The stuff I have on my desk is called "Glue-All, Multi-Purpose Glue".
If you enjoy wargaming please check out my new channel (there might even be the odd terrain vdieo here and there) - ruclips.net/channel/UCBg2RoIvR4qiE5-S0KVsPXg
'Poorhammer' that is the most relatable thing I have ever seen.
Heh I didn't coin the term or anything, but I grew up not having much money so it's something I consider a lot - thanksfully these days I am more average working class :)
‘Poorhammer 40k Debt’
@Tapio Piuva Art For sure, I do think it's worth knowing many ways to make similar things :)
It's not just WH 40k that makes you into 'Poorhammer'. I play historical and have lately gotten into WW2 wargaming. The prices for vehicles and soldiers is ridiculous. I've gotten into building paper models for the vehicles and artillery units and doing some recast minis out of hot glue from homemade molds. That's a much more affordable way to do the game. Not as detailed but I don't care. It works for me and my budget and if someone else don't want to play well I don't care about playing any ninnies who want to be jerks anyway.
@@rwdyeriii I’ve taken to using smaller figures for WW2. Lots of benefits, smaller tanks are cheaper, more room to manoeuvre and it all looks much better. In 28mm, most rules have SMG that have less range than the length of a tank. Use the same rules with 15mm and everything looks a lot better. Also it takes far less storage space which means more toys.
Wow the cardboard steps even look almost like sedimentary rock. Beautiful! Going to do this.
It looks very convincing. In the U.S. it is called premixed Spackle or sometimes just mud. You can buy it in white or pink. The pink turns white when it is dry so you know it is ready to sand. Thanks for sharing thi.
I normally call it spackle but sometimes forget but will make sure I mention it. And thnak you :)
Replying super late, but my friends and family always called it spackle. The second I got into property maintenance it was exclusively called mud. Joint compound is the least common term I've heard for it. Although the specific stuff I've been using for this is called "Hole Repair" and it was left here by the last tenants. So Hole Repair is my go to for the time being haha
Your terrain piece is simply brilliant, mate. Not only did I enjoy watching your video, but I actually learned from it and am now confident that I can make my own similar pieces for my Battletech table. Thanks so much for sharing this excellent video, brother. Cheers from the USA!
Easy, cheap & fast ! The holy trinity ! Good job.
I personally wouldn't use them for a table myself though. I think foam hills just make more sense! But thank you :)
As someone wanting to dip their toe into terrain building, this looks like a really easy first piece. Great video!
It's cheap and easy, good luck :)
I love this! I love not spending money and using what I have at home. Going to try this for sure!
Recently bought middle earth strategy game, this is going to help me get some terrain slapped together in no time! Great video
Happy to help, if you wanted speed I would maybe suggest XPS foam, as they are a little quicker, but these are cheaper and obviously just card! Thank you, good luck :)
Random tip if you need to use a glue or filler with a lot of water and you're worried about warping - put it on a desk or table, put something on top that you don't mind potentially getting messy, and put a hefty book on it. It's not ideal especially for a hill as it can cause the upper layers to press down into the base, but I've never been bothered by that, and at the very least you'll have a flat base regardless.
The other option that I've used is to make all but the actual base first, fill it, then add the base when that's dry, and fill that separately. Less moisture, thus less warping, and the base is thicker and more sturdy so on its own it shouldn't warp noticeably.
Looks great. Used to make hills with two pieces of card board with some matchboxes in between and paper mache. Worked out fine as well.
Out of all the channels you run, this is definitely the best one in my opinion!
Great stuff mate, keep it up :)
Thank you kindly! ~I have reduced the channels now, I jave this terrain one, and a wargaming one called Jay Oddity. That's it, it perhaps got a bit much! Thank you :)
Thanks for the video, gonna make something like this for my sons play table
Nice and good luck :)
I've made a hill by your recipe and my wargaming club very likes it. They ask, and only they, can I do more.
Damn, I've never thought to grab the spackle at the dollar tree. Thanks!
Back in the 70s I gave tours of the architecture school at my university. They used only two pieces of foamboard to make their topography hills. Foamboard was very expensive back then. They printed the topo lines on two sheets of foam. Lets say the terrain went from 0 to 30 units high. They cut one piece of foam on every 5 unit line (5, 15, 25) and the other piece on every 0 unit line (0, 10, 20, 30). Then they aligned the 5 unit strip along the 5 unit line on the base and glued it down. Then they aligned the 10 unit strip along the 10 unit line on the 5 unit strip and glued it down. The back of the model was hollow, so they stacked cheap cardboard squares to use as support under the model.
If I understand that correctly, you could make these hills with less material and make them hollow, but I think there's no real need, unless you are desperate. And you could deffo do this hile using foam board, probably look better!
Correct. For your project you would have made three rings and the top piece. Stack them up and glue them. Way back then the architects' foamboard was an unbelievable $25 per sheet, so minimizing the piece count for students was necessary.
Also if you're cutting a lot of cardboard, foam, or plastic, check out this video to up your cutting game. ruclips.net/video/SgCam8t3670/видео.html
I made this, but with polystyrene - looks really good and was fun to make! Cheers for this vid
That's probably a better material for sure. My pleasure.
Totally used this method and made a killer terrain piece. Thanks for the great ideas and clear instruction!
100% my pleasure, I love people making similar stuff :) thanks for sharing!
I am planning to build some sandstone spires with a dry desert theme. Once I have them done, I will post some pictures on facebook. Thx for all the cheap terrain ideas.
If you can get any xps foam I would suggest that instead honestly, this is more of an option if you can't. Thanks though :)
excellent vid, and for the reader you could use yellows on browns with sand scatter for those desert hills too! may a palm or two for added features.
Very cool! Got loads of cardboard from all the miniatures so this is perfect.
Glad you like it! Happy to help.
This is an incredible technique! I can't wait to try it.
I would suggest foam if you can get it though, but if you can't or you have lots of cardboard, crack on. Thanks :)
Brilliant tutorial, making my hills like this now, from the UK
hahaha, jesus man, that looks incredible! Can't believe it's literally made from cardboard scraps! We recycle so much cardboard every week !
Heh thanks, I've just made a bunker out of card as well. Card is such a great material just because it is so readily available, really the main thing these builds cost is time!
I’m definitely going to have to try this because that came out looking so realistic!
Cheap and easy :)
Yo great video man, love it! Curious what do you use to seal everything once it is flocked? Also bonus points for the singing at the end!
I generally seal with watered down pva in a spray bottle, or some times mat varnish spray! What a voice I have! lol
Good job been doing this for years now and it works well! Just a note that you can keep one edge the same profile on each layer whilst making the others smaller so you get your steps on one, two or three sides depending what you want whilst having a face on the other.
I also use smaller profiles under larger ones to get an undercut if you want and arches and caves are a doddle to do too.
Cardboard something lock down has left me swimming in great for hills - I use epvc for basing personally although that is a cost - or for scatter pieces old CDs and DVDs that get donated from family and friends :D
Epv is my fav basing material, I just wanted to show that even cardboard can look decent. I'm sure people could make much better stuff, I just show the basics :)
This same principle can also be used to create protruding rocks, boulders, and even standing stones. Stack many small layers of cardboard, then spackle the sides to create that rocky texture.
Yeah for sure, I might even try it myself at some point!
Great video. I’ve not played warhammer since I was around 12 but now 23 I’ve got back into just painting figures and I’ve been wanting to make scenes and displays. Will be watching more of your videos ! Cheers
Thank you very much, and welcome back and good luck :)
I support Poorhammer!
I also suggest anyone considering paiper mache to check out TheDMsCraft's video on paiper mache hills. DM Scotty started with similar cardboard pieces, added wet paper kitchen towel, a bit of bog roll, and water and PVA glue. The way he does it comes out very hard and tends not to suffer warping. It made a more gentle hill than the Poorhammer Hill.
And yes, the DAP Wallboard Joint Compound is pretty much the same thing you're using here for us Americans. Might also use wood filler (Plastic Wood-X also by DAP) for the same purpose. Spacklle also works about the same. Different stuff, but it all works out about the same for filling edges of cardboard to get rid of the edges. I've used all three-whatever I can most easily get. A tube of wood filler won't be enough for this kind of thing, get a tub.
Yep DM Scotty is a legend. I don't think I've seen his hill but I'm sure it's great. The wetness would have me worrying about warping but I'm sure it's fine. Thanks for the info
@@TerrainMadeEasy Double-corrugated cardboard (or two layers glued together) prevents that. If he didn't do that, it might warp a bit.
@@knghtbrd yeah that makes sense
I'm following your steps to make my first piece of terrain ever. If it turns out good, I'll continue with this hobby.
Time for me to build a load of hills with free cardboard I have laying around!
Great video mate, need to practice my filler game! 😂
You are in the UK. Buy a sheet of xps foam 30mm on ebay! It's way quicker and easier!
@@TerrainMadeEasy I should have a load of it spare once I craft my sons mandalorian armour! 😇
But till then I live by the sea for free stones/sand and I work in a kitchen and get spare cardboard every week so "Unlimited Power" just need the paints!! 😂
Well done
Looks good!
I made a set of desert hills in a similar fashion. I think they look decent, but I wanted them tall enough to block LOS for vehicles and that took a lot of cutting and gluing.
Yeah I wouldn't go much bigger than the one I did for that reason. It's just constant cutting and gluing. They look good for the price though. I'd love to see yours, maybe post on Facebook group?
@@TerrainMadeEasy I'll see about taking a picture
@@dakkaflakkaflame Fantastic!
While the material might not be ideal, making terrain from corrugated cardboard is a good idea. Especially if you order your hobby stuff online and it's delivered in a corrugated cardboard box. It's like they're thrown in some terrain for free.
Well you can't get cheaper than free! Honestly it's pretty damn sturdy, the main downside is time! But it's just cutting card
@@TerrainMadeEasy since you're covering it with filler, I wonder if a woodworking rasp to bevel the edges would make things easier.
@@AndrewMcColl I feel like it might disintergrate the card but who knows!
great stuff. thanks for sharing the idea.
Aboslutely my pleasure. Thanks :)
I like silicone sealant you can get it at Dollar tree when in stock by the tube or smaller hand squeeze tube.
Yea silicone has an advantage of being midly flexible as well, so lesss prine to chipping. It's good stuff!
Great job showing easy terrain building with simple materials. I only found your channel recently and really enjoying your videos. Well done and thanks for doing videos. 👍
Hey! Aboslutely my pleasure, thank you very much and welcome :)
Been watching a bunch of YT tutorials tonight on making miniature stuff. This is the first that I've commented on. That looks fucking AWESOME dude. For what you put into it, your results are superb. Definitely going to follow myself.
I am honoured! Thank you. I guess that sums up the channel, trying to get good results with simple stuff :)
Hey, I love your terrain videos! You said in this video about adding sand and you say 'any sand will do' can I even use sand I've collected from the beach?
Thanks Brit! That gave me some new ideas. Great way to use all the package boxes.
I'm trying to decide how to make a gentle sloping hill for a 1/32 diorama of The Battle of Bunker Hill, or properly Breed's Hill.
Breed's Hill was 62 feet high with a slope , on the side was a dirt road running through it to Bunker Hill.
I have a good map of the original topography and want this to be as actual as I can make it.
In the future it might be used in a middle school American History class, or club. I want to look at all situations of the battle from the American Colonial to the British and what could have changed the outcome for both sides.
So, after all that, can you do another video possibly showing how to make a gentle sloping hill to a rise with cardboard?
That would be great. Thanks chap, appreciate it!
A slope would would be difficult but you could do the same thing as this build but maybe use some home made sculpamold to smooth things. Good luck
@@TerrainMadeEasy thanks for the idea. I'll try that.
@@scotttomlinson5689 Good luck
Nice looking hill! great job!
Thank you kindly :)
Very cool. This looks great.
Thank you very kindly :)
7:39 You did what??
haha, great stuff sir
What can I say...I really like terrain.... and my northern accent
awesome job. Easy isn't simple but you make it look so so simple!
My whole purpose :) Thanks :)
Just made one of these following your instructions, doing some finishing touches on it before calling it completely done.
Nice, I hope you are happy with it :)
@@TerrainMadeEasy very and now that I have the link to your Facebook page it's going to be posted soon
That's a great way to start if my kids n I don't like it then I've only wasted cardboard and filler and a bit of paint etc I wanna try diorama so this is great good job🤟
Yeah exactly, this is cheap and can be fun, and you can make it look nice!
As someone who is just starting to make my own table, your videos and guides have been an IMMENSE help and inspiration, thank you so much!
Thank you and my pleasure. Good luck :-)
Hot-glue verses PVA: PVA for small parts, but for large areas, like with the hill layers, hot-glue is better because PVA will make the card wet and shrinks when dry, so can warp large flat areas.
Aye I like hot glue generally just for speed and if working with card then avoidng wetness is always goof!
First, joint compound and spackle are 2 different things. I've worked in construction and building repair for a long time trust me when I say there's a difference. J.C. is used as the 1st layer with sheetrock and to put down the tape on the joints and it contains a lot more water than spackle. I personally prefer the blue lid spackle from USG as it contains less water and therefore shrinks less once dry, or in this case, has less of a chance of warping the cardboard.
2nd, going forward when using cardboard I'd recommend taking the step to spray paint your project with either "Kilz primer/sealer/stain killer" or "Zinnser 1-2-3 stain killer/sealer and primer", operative word in both being "sealer". Once it's been sealed there are no worries about warpage as the moisture can no longer get to the cardboard. Just make sure to spray it all the way around, allowing dry time going from top to bottom unless you hang it while spraying it.
You apply the sealer to the cardboard before applying the spackle correct ?
@@elscotty21 yes, seal it with the products mentioned to water proof. But cardboard may not hold up under the weight of spackle long term as spackle, being gypsum, is basically a liquified stone that dries into said stone ultimately. And you should also know that if you put spackle on too thickly it will crack and have difficulty drying fully
Joint compound/spackle/crack filler is readily available in America in many places fortunately
Yeah, it's a great terrain material to have!
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much, only starting and this is brilliant thank you 👏
Glad it was helpful!
Could you make some more cardboard scenery. Love the video 👍
Yes I don't know when but I have many ideas, I just need time :)
@@TerrainMadeEasy This is my 8 YO son and he is seriously addicted to making scenery with your videos, so thanks for keeping him so entertained!
@@milesharris5315 honestly is my pleasure :-)
Creative and efftive work, looks great!
Thank you very much :)
I really liked your method, will be usind it :) Sidenote: You kinda look like The Boys Butcher Character.
Man that's like the nicest compliment I could get! I normally get Sam Tarly from GoT so I will 100% take this. Thanks.!
> "The poorhammer hill"
> Makes something better that Workshop never did
I really like this video it’s helpful
Great jo, well done and thanks you for the tips.
Happy to help!
It looks like it would be perfect for 6 mm gaming as well.
For sure, probably won't need as many bits of card to do it as well :)
I think I'd go with browns instead of greys for dirt, but this is a good method!
Thanks for the videos. After flocking you said 'just seal it off' ... What are you using to seal? Matt lacquer?
I just use watered down pva :)
@@TerrainMadeEasy thanks, do you brush or spray to seal?
@@madmarshman I would either spray it on or pipet it on and just drop it on :)
T
Sparkle in the US is sometimes called bondo or stuff like that, automobile filler ;) Nice video!
Never heard of it being called that so thank you :-)
Thanks for the video! Very helpful for a newbie
Absolutely my pleasure :)
Trying out this method to make my first terrain for a 15mm scifi game. I got high hopes.
It's simple and cheap to be fair :)
If you want to avoid the mess of hot glue you can use tacky glue.
Going to make some of these for sure. Trying to make an icy frozen rocky world and have made some things following your tutorials but I'm really scared to paint any of it fearing I'll ruin the stuff I made. Can't really see any tutorials for painting icy waste land stuff, what would you do for that?
You can either paint it white with like a blue wash, so the whole thing is a blueish white, with a white dry brush. Or You can cover it all in snow. I wouldn't just paint it white if that make sense.
Paint it white. add a blue wash, add a very thin purple wash in the deepest parts. Drybrush white again, and put a gloss varnish layer over it. You'll have a nice shiney "wet" sheet of 'ice'. Then put white fluff here and there, stuff to simulate snow on top of the ice and break up the shine. Add some regular rocks to your liking, and maybe some brownish dirt in between layers.
@@johandejong2292 Thanks for the tips! Just moved into my new home and have space to work now so I'll give this a go :D
This would work wonderfully for walls in a sandstone canyon
You had me at poorhammer
Heh I have a whole playlist on it and plan to add more.
I'm not sure if anyone mentioned it or was thought of, but I'd say maybe using the dual/thicker cardboard might work a little easier? :) Keep up the awesome work!
For sure, I think maybe use as thick as you can get if you want height. I just sort of used standard stuff as that is what I had :)
you can also use masking tape to cover the edges
Fucking killer recommendation to use spackling for filler. I was stumped to today, trying to figure out how to cover gaps and holes in a bunch of corigated hard plastic. And let's just say the small tub I bought for a $1 a few months ago has found a new purpose besides helping me move.
Nice, glad I could help!
great idea !! and it looks really good !
Not my original idea but I do think it turned out quite well. For a cheap cheap hill, it's great (not to congratulate myself)
@@TerrainMadeEasy you should ;) if your happy with the result that's all that counts !!
@@smolle8906 Indeed, always :-)
Thank you for the video
4:13, i'm getting some scary Papercut feelings seeing this. :|
I egenrally don't injure myself too often but a paper cut is the worst!
what about using those giant foam dice you get at the dollar store. Can be cup up into nice little hills
I have no idea! That sounds fun, will try and see if I can find something in the uk when this whole thing blows over.
I love your videos so much. can you make a new cardboard hill?
Hey, Erm why would I do a new one? I might at some point do a larger one, but it would bethe same method. Lots of stuff you can do using the same kind of technique though
@@TerrainMadeEasy I am sorry I was meant to write I love your your videos so much. Can you make a new cardboard scenery?
Thats looks amazing too :) what i wanted to ask that do u, use cheaper paints for terrain rather than your usual mini paints( like citadel, vallejo, army painter ect.) and if u do whats your recommendation? ohh and whats your recepi for your black wash? (begginer on the other side sry if that stuff is common knowledge) :)
Thanks. I always use cheap craft paints, or testor pots for house paints! I would never suggest using mini paints (maybe in tiny details).
Artists acrylic paints are medium in terms of price, the cheapest paints are little testor pots for house paints. Get black, brown and grey and you can do a lot of terrain.
For the wash, I often just use like a small dab of black, like a tiny tiny bit of black paint, and just water! To go a bit fancier you could add a one drop of dish soap (will help it flow - you could use flow aid) and like 90% water. Hard to be exact
There's more advance methods using mat medium and black ink and proper flow aid, but the cheap one is pretty decent!
@@TerrainMadeEasy Ohh i see :) ty for your answer, appreciated :)
Really good video thanks just getting introduced to table top gaming really interested in any advice or guidance towards middle earth sbg terrain please.
Check out Top Table Gaming :)
Glad you mention the warping issue with the card... hot glue ftw!
I graduated years ago to poly on mdf bases... 0 warpage lol
But great tutorial none the less... terrain never gets old for me.
Thanks, yeah filler is great to try and reduce warping :)
When I seal the flock with the pva mix I get warping am I doing something wrong.
Would Caulking be suitable for the spackle section? Or would you say spackle only?
Caulking could work fine, but it's a little stickier and I am not sure how easy it would be to get a relatively smooth surface with it. It's a maybe!
Great job!👍🏽
Thank you very kindly :)
Since u said try to keep moisture out that means I can’t use plaster of Paris or sculptamold ?
You can probably use that as it tends not to warp much I think, no har in trying it maybe
@@TerrainMadeEasy yeah I plan on using cardboard after my bad experience with styrofoam tho I plan on covering everything with the filler that u mentioned and then apply the sculptamold
More hobbying, less money? Sounds good to me.
Hello, I'm making a hill like on this movie, but what have you are using as a filler?
It's joint compound or drywall mud. You can get a bucket of it from the hardware store for less than $20
@@nathanrocks2562 Thanks! I show the bucket from this video in build store and they have no idea what it can be on local market.
Great video
thank you kindly :)
Very interesting.
Sharad Datar(82).
Karjat(Raigad),Maharashtra.
Thanks :)
What do you seal it off with?
watered down pva (one drop of dish soap), but don't drown it as it is cardboard, dribble it if you can
Brilliant
Thank you very much :)
I make hills like this but dont bother with flock etc as I use them under a Geek Villain game mat
You could maybe use some white expanded polystyrene and shape them down. But I gues syou don't need to make more :)
@@TerrainMadeEasy I have so much cardboard from work it's all i use. But if i did have polystyrene it would be great
@@NSYresearch Fair enough, I don't use cardboard so much but I would suggest maybe dm scotty for lots of terrain builds :)
What would you use to seal it at the end?
Just watered down pva in a spray bottle but I wouldn't drown it, and pipetting it might be better.
@@TerrainMadeEasy Thanks man! I've got a bunch of old boxes around the house that are that type of cardboard thats white on one side, any advice on using that? I'm worried paint wont adhere to it
@@nebby589 yeah I would try not to use the shiny white side but saying that, if you are covering it in filler then it won't matter much
6:05 SOLD!
Not sure what I was selling but thanks :)
"Trash-bash" FTW : www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/ltlnis/trashbash/
What’s a cheap alternative to flock
Making your own. So the cheapest way is to try and get some sawdust for free (from any wood place), and then simply mixing it with paint.
You could also maybe blend up I think upholstery foam....I would youtube this as I haven't done it myself.
Im new to this stuff. what did you mean by sealant?
Is this me talking about the flock at the end? If so, normally lets say you pva and flock, you often want to add a lyer on top to seal it in, so maybe like some sprayed water and pva with a drop of dish soap (makes it flow into the cracks),
Was that it?
@@TerrainMadeEasy thank you
@@davidstiles1225 Any questions just let me know (always available facebook or discord :))
can i used clay or Paper mache is good as well?
Paper mache should be good for the slopes but I don't think it would look as good for the rock fasce but I am not sure.
"any dream will do"
Joseph? 🤔
I hear a lot of Brits mention PVA. Is that the same as Elmer's Glue?
Pretty much! I don't know if you can buy builders white glue? Elmers might be a bit mild.
From context, I think this is the case. Just remember to get plain Elmer's glue, not "school glue". The latter is less effective, since it's intended for children. The stuff I have on my desk is called "Glue-All, Multi-Purpose Glue".
@@Bluecho4 Thanks, I don't have first hand experience.
Hello, what did you use to seal it?
I generally just seal with amix of pva and water, though as it is card I wouldn't drown it in it.