I used your video yesterday to replace the bearing on my PA motor, your video was a great help. To get past your problem of not being able to drive out the shaft with the pipe clamp "vise", I used a hole saw (it was a llittle over one inch) to drill a hole in a block of wood. The block of wood was slightly larger than the aluminum base of the motor housing and the hole was slightly larger than the commutor assembly. So you just put the base against the block of wood with the commutator part in the hole and drive the pin out. I used a woodworking vise instead of the pipe clamp but it's basically the same thing.
I have used your video as instruction with great success for my Singer 503J. Thank you! Used 627ZZ Miniature Deep Groove Ball Mini Bearing from Temu - $1.78 CAD
I have pressed many bearings over the years in different circumstances and I use sockets from my toolbox. Usually there is always a socket that will work. Nice video, thank you.
your solution to the problem was very good. The clamp use was brilliant and the spacers were just as elegant. I mentioned using sockets just because they are available and easy to use. I have a very large accumulation of sockets up to 2.5" in diameter and use them to press out and reinstall bearings in a wide range of motors and such.@@thevmc
Love the "spacer assembly" LOL! whatever works!!! (and it's easily and economically assembled!!) Thanks for sharing your findings with us... Blessings! GREAT FIRST VIDEO!!! Looking for any more that you have to share!!!
That's a great complement (and compliment) to Andy Tube's videos. I've never considered doing that but now that I'm aware of it I'll be willing to do it. Your video was well paced with great lighting and sound. I'm very impressed.
Wow! Excellent video. I have now subscribed to your channel and am looking forward to future content. Even if you hadn’t mentioned his name, as soon as you uttered the words “Krud Kutter” and “bathtub” in the same sentence, I would have known you as an Andy Tube devotee. We owe him such a debt of gratitude for his vintage Singer sewing machine tutorials. Thank you for starting your new channel.
I have always wanted to see what was inside there, thank you for such a detailed video! I just replaced my first bearing thanks to you. I don’t have all the tools that you do so I improvised. I used a rubber mallet, the old bearing to press the new one in (using the rubber mallet) and the worm gear to apply pressure against the center of the bearing as I used the rubber mallet to tap the rod back in. Not ideal but I was very careful and it worked perfectly. I almost panicked when I thought that the old bearing was stuck over the new one but I got it off. Probably won’t do it my way again and just go to my husbands shop and use his tools. There is definitely less risk in damaging the new bearing following your method. Thanks for your content, hope to see more!
Nice job. a few drops of oil before assembling really hes, and polish the shaft real nice. also if the bearing is giving problems, soak it is acetone and dry ice, it will fall into place.. Then soak the shaft soak the shaft in dry ice and acetone, , , ,adding thin oil to the acetone is really necessary. . . .oil on everything. really, , , nice work.
Thanks! I don't post a lot, as there's already so much out there for many of these machines... but when I see an issue I think is unaddressed, I make a video to add to the collective knowledge:)
I have one bearing that just would not move off the shaft of a PA motor. I've tried every trick in the book to get it lose. A trick I use to install the bearing onto a shaft is to put the shaft into the freezer for a couple of hours prior to the installation. This causes the shaft to shrink ever so slightly, greatly reducing the interference when installing new bearing. I find that on some PA motors the shaft fit is a lot looser in the ID of the bearing. So the motor shaft moves freely up and down inside the bearing, so no pressing is required to replace the bearing.
I realize what's inside the bearing are the "balls" and not "bearings." :) Also, one big spacer of exact size might seem attractive, but I couldn't find someone to custom-machine one for me, and more importantly, I think doing it in 1-inch increments is likely more controllable and stable in the press.
I'm happy to be the first to congratulate you on a very good video and thank you for sharing your procedure. I'm glad you decided to share with the community and you've done a wonderful job of it! Thank you. Now I'm off to find a bearing before they are all sold out!
I appreciate your effort and enthusiasm, but watching you hammer that motor shaft with a claw hammer was a bit tough to watch...use a block of wood or a brass or plastic hammer...anything other than using a hardened metal hammer on the shaft. Putting the shaft in a freezer for a couple of hours is also a great and time proven method to facilitate reassembly. This is JMHO, no offense intended.
@@GaryT1952 I agree. It was a metal hammer and your suggestion is right on... Never realized about the freezer - but absolutely!!! Trackdog90 where are your videos??? Share the knowledge!!! Thanks for your gentle commenting without being rude as well - I always appreciate a correction without a scolding!!! LOL!
It will also help to gently warm the bearing in the housing to no more than 80 C / 176 F an oven is fine for this, The grease will be OK, they fit a lot of bearings like this where I work.
Hello, thanks for the video. I tweaked the spring removing it from the shaft as it was stuck. Is there a replacement? Also, what is a good way to take it off in the future? Thanks, Paul.
Yeah, that's hard... i usually ruin a thumbnail following it around and gradually easing it up and off the shaft. Probably deserves some penetrating oil to make the job easier. I don't know of replacements but I'm sure something can be found that's suitable -- it just provides friction for the rubber tire of the bobbin winder, and likely doesn't have to be too precise...
What size Bessey clamp set is that? My HD has them but they’re 1/2” and 3/4”. It also says the pipe needs to be threaded, but I take it just at one end?
Well.. complicated question, turns out. I thought it was 3/4" but measuring the pipe and clamp it looks like 1" pipe. I don't see that they come in 1", so I'm not sure and can't remember (can't find the receipt).... but I'm certain that 3/4" would work fine. My pipes are threaded at both ends, but yeah, you really only need one end threaded to use this setup.
@@pd10642 Thank you for your reply. Ended up hunting them down and learned something new: Pipes apparently aren't measured by the outside diameter. I got the 3/4" clamp set and the pipe that fits it is actually over an inch thick. It's plenty sturdy enough for the job. Got all the way to the end of this process, bearing seated, armature shaft in place. Went to reinstall the retainer ring, which for me came out easily. Well, I had a hard time getting it back in. Was using pliers when the pliers slipped and drove right into the bearing race cover, denting it enough to make the grease start leaking. Oh my. Now I have to order more bearings and start over. Sorry to bother you for one more question, I really do appreciate your videos! Do these packages you hold up contain multiple bearings? Thanks so much
I used your video yesterday to replace the bearing on my PA motor, your video was a great help. To get past your problem of not being able to drive out the shaft with the pipe clamp "vise", I used a hole saw (it was a llittle over one inch) to drill a hole in a block of wood. The block of wood was slightly larger than the aluminum base of the motor housing and the hole was slightly larger than the commutor assembly. So you just put the base against the block of wood with the commutator part in the hole and drive the pin out. I used a woodworking vise instead of the pipe clamp but it's basically the same thing.
Fantastic to hear! So glad we've been able to come up with creative solutions to keep these wonderful objects working.
I have used your video as instruction with great success for my Singer 503J. Thank you! Used 627ZZ Miniature Deep Groove Ball Mini Bearing from Temu - $1.78 CAD
A deep socket with a diameter which contacts only the inner race makes a very effective "spacer". I use a vise to do the pressing.
I have pressed many bearings over the years in different circumstances and I use sockets from my toolbox. Usually there is always a socket that will work. Nice video, thank you.
Thanks! This is the only one I have done, and I still wish for a nice hydraulic press!
your solution to the problem was very good. The clamp use was brilliant and the spacers were just as elegant. I mentioned using sockets just because they are available and easy to use. I have a very large accumulation of sockets up to 2.5" in diameter and use them to press out and reinstall bearings in a wide range of motors and such.@@thevmc
@@allanchambers4716 That's awesome! And thank you.
An excellent video. You are an excellent teacher. More videos, PLEASE
How much do you charge for bearing replacement?
Love the "spacer assembly" LOL! whatever works!!! (and it's easily and economically assembled!!) Thanks for sharing your findings with us... Blessings! GREAT FIRST VIDEO!!! Looking for any more that you have to share!!!
That's a great complement (and compliment) to Andy Tube's videos. I've never considered doing that but now that I'm aware of it I'll be willing to do it. Your video was well paced with great lighting and sound. I'm very impressed.
Thank you!
Wow! Excellent video. I have now subscribed to your channel and am looking forward to future content. Even if you hadn’t mentioned his name, as soon as you uttered the words “Krud Kutter” and “bathtub” in the same sentence, I would have known you as an Andy Tube devotee. We owe him such a debt of gratitude for his vintage Singer sewing machine tutorials. Thank you for starting your new channel.
I have always wanted to see what was inside there, thank you for such a detailed video! I just replaced my first bearing thanks to you. I don’t have all the tools that you do so I improvised. I used a rubber mallet, the old bearing to press the new one in (using the rubber mallet) and the worm gear to apply pressure against the center of the bearing as I used the rubber mallet to tap the rod back in. Not ideal but I was very careful and it worked perfectly. I almost panicked when I thought that the old bearing was stuck over the new one but I got it off. Probably won’t do it my way again and just go to my husbands shop and use his tools. There is definitely less risk in damaging the new bearing following your method. Thanks for your content, hope to see more!
Using a Moly paste such as Honda M77 healps with pressing bearings in and shafts into bearings
Now I need to get a press! That bad bearing whine is unmistakable! Tfs!
Nice job. a few drops of oil before assembling really hes, and polish the shaft real nice. also if the bearing is giving problems, soak it is acetone and dry ice, it will fall into place.. Then soak the shaft soak the shaft in dry ice and acetone, , , ,adding thin oil to the acetone is really necessary. . . .oil on everything. really, , , nice work.
I like the pipe clamp with feet , , I've never seen that before
Thanks for your comments! Yeah, they're Bessey brand, got them at Home Depot I believe.
Many thanks. I appreciate the info.@@thevmc
Very awesome and very Andy! Thanks
Great channel, I'll be back!
Thanks! I don't post a lot, as there's already so much out there for many of these machines... but when I see an issue I think is unaddressed, I make a video to add to the collective knowledge:)
I like like it your video, it a very practical solution to a common problem. Thank You!
Thank you for the useful information and tips!
I have one bearing that just would not move off the shaft of a PA motor. I've tried every trick in the book to get it lose.
A trick I use to install the bearing onto a shaft is to put the shaft into the freezer for a couple of hours prior to the installation. This causes the shaft to shrink ever so slightly, greatly reducing the interference when installing new bearing.
I find that on some PA motors the shaft fit is a lot looser in the ID of the bearing. So the motor shaft moves freely up and down inside the bearing, so no pressing is required to replace the bearing.
I realize what's inside the bearing are the "balls" and not "bearings." :) Also, one big spacer of exact size might seem attractive, but I couldn't find someone to custom-machine one for me, and more importantly, I think doing it in 1-inch increments is likely more controllable and stable in the press.
I'm happy to be the first to congratulate you on a very good video and thank you for sharing your procedure. I'm glad you decided to share with the community and you've done a wonderful job of it! Thank you. Now I'm off to find a bearing before they are all sold out!
Glad someone is saving these motors, though I think I'll leave it to the professionals like you! :D
Thank you.
The code number / part number for this bearing is "627z"
I appreciate your effort and enthusiasm, but watching you hammer that motor shaft with a claw hammer was a bit tough to watch...use a block of wood or a brass or plastic hammer...anything other than using a hardened metal hammer on the shaft. Putting the shaft in a freezer for a couple of hours is also a great and time proven method to facilitate reassembly. This is JMHO, no offense intended.
I believe he said it was a nylon hammer.
10:56...that's an Estwing steel claw hammer
@@GaryT1952 I agree. It was a metal hammer and your suggestion is right on... Never realized about the freezer - but absolutely!!! Trackdog90 where are your videos??? Share the knowledge!!! Thanks for your gentle commenting without being rude as well - I always appreciate a correction without a scolding!!! LOL!
@@mnelson9057 later on he uses a nylon hammer - but, yeah, to begin with he's using a metal claw hammer...
It will also help to gently warm the bearing in the housing to no more than 80 C / 176 F an oven is fine for this, The grease will be OK, they fit a lot of bearings like this where I work.
use a brass hammer stops extra work fixing created work
Hello, thanks for the video. I tweaked the spring removing it from the shaft as it was stuck. Is there a replacement? Also, what is a good way to take it off in the future?
Thanks,
Paul.
Yeah, that's hard... i usually ruin a thumbnail following it around and gradually easing it up and off the shaft. Probably deserves some penetrating oil to make the job easier. I don't know of replacements but I'm sure something can be found that's suitable -- it just provides friction for the rubber tire of the bobbin winder, and likely doesn't have to be too precise...
Greetings! Do you work on other people's PA motors? I have a motor and new replacement bearing assembly, but don't have the proper tools. Thanks!
I have and I do! Feel free to reach out to me at the email address in the description for the video! vmconservationist@gmail.com
What size Bessey clamp set is that? My HD has them but they’re 1/2” and 3/4”. It also says the pipe needs to be threaded, but I take it just at one end?
Well.. complicated question, turns out. I thought it was 3/4" but measuring the pipe and clamp it looks like 1" pipe. I don't see that they come in 1", so I'm not sure and can't remember (can't find the receipt).... but I'm certain that 3/4" would work fine. My pipes are threaded at both ends, but yeah, you really only need one end threaded to use this setup.
@@pd10642 Thank you for your reply. Ended up hunting them down and learned something new: Pipes apparently aren't measured by the outside diameter. I got the 3/4" clamp set and the pipe that fits it is actually over an inch thick. It's plenty sturdy enough for the job. Got all the way to the end of this process, bearing seated, armature shaft in place. Went to reinstall the retainer ring, which for me came out easily. Well, I had a hard time getting it back in. Was using pliers when the pliers slipped and drove right into the bearing race cover, denting it enough to make the grease start leaking. Oh my. Now I have to order more bearings and start over. Sorry to bother you for one more question, I really do appreciate your videos! Do these packages you hold up contain multiple bearings? Thanks so much
@@annhancock4558 oh gosh forgot to reply to this.... no I get single bearings. The going rate seems to be about $13 each.