You are going to continue to have issues if you keep mounting your amp on your enclosure! Mount that monster in a spot with some deadener behind it. You will also need an upgraded alternator.
Garlicbread Riders - Yes he does, and honestly he should have a least two Mechmans for that kind of power. That amp needs stable high power at all times. There is a trade off with budget power. A top notch Orion or Rockford amp can withstand instability, but not Taramps, so the trade off is spending thousands on electrical instead of thousands on amps. You can fight it all you want, but you will eventually lose.
He explained everything at mark 9:00, the first amp came damaged, second and he shorted the speaker outputs, and now he's on his third amp. So for all you ragging on the MD 12000 the only problem I see was in packaging and shipping on the first amp. I've own Brazilian ams for over 5 years with not a single problem. Ds18 fr6000 Korean made amp. Prv 8000d, Taramps md8000.1. (2) taramps 1200x4 and (2)MD 1800.1. like I said I've never had a single problem out of any of them, I will never go back to those high prices Korean based amps.
Next issue I can see is I noticed alot of flex on that wall, that will take out/kill any amp, Amps hate vibrations, and indeed they need a ton of support, just got my sd12k and I'm being recommended to run 3 banks of 35ah lithium and triple inputs, I own a ds18 hooligan spl 5k also and I absolutely love the look and the feel of that 5k, puts out what it claims if not alittle more, but would definitely be more careful on swapping things back and fourth on them amps and be sure to figure out a good spot where it will get little to no vibrations or be able to flex the board, Amos will last forever if you take the proper precautions
Flex!? It looks like he built it from 1/4 inch it flexes so much. Yes that’s the issue. It’s him he can’t see that he is destroying his own stuff? Omg these kids
@@guyww8516 not to mention that he's gotten the wrong amp. These are meant for mids and large woofer systems. Kind of like what you see the Russians driving around with 20 12" woofers. It even tells you on the box that it's not necessarily meant for subwoofer applications, that's the whole reason they have their "Bass" line of amplifiers.
Thanks for being honest and owning up to it, and making us aware. I'll own up to mine. I pulled out my Skar rp1500.1d and assumed I knew which was the power wire vs ground 4g. I should've easily looked and double checked. Well I hooked up power and ground reverse in the amp. When I go to put the battery on, the fused connection after the battery saved my ass. Lit up and melted the 150 amp ANL fuse. I corrected it the next morning when I figured out what happened. The amp works fine, no issues. It's the Taramps Smart 3.
@@nnnvv2121 mine heats up too easily for what I want it to do. Running rp1500.1d on skar svr 15. Sometimes two 15s. Either way it heats up on short drives and below full tilt so meh
Haha yep i had a 1000 watt Coustic amp pawn shop special on 2 kicker comp 15s in the late 90s that was a good 18" long or more easily! Went to a soundstream reference 500sx after that which finally gave out recently. Finally went class D with a Fosgate 500 mono block. Amazing how small it is for the power output. Literally half the size of the ref 500. That taramps 12k is a beast though damn!
When you shorted the terminals, you killed some output fets. They were shorted. And the amp went into protect avoiding further damage. When you power cycled, the amp has a delay built in on the protect circuit to allow it to start while its charging caps, checking systems and initializing drivers. That delay was enough to allow the amp to power on the power supply into a short(the output fet(s) that got damaged durind the short of the leads. This most likely cooked the remaining output fets on the affected bank, the power supply fets are probably done and the class d drivers. I would recommend anyone with a taramps that if you trow it into protect, at least by shorting terminals or blowing speakers, DO Not power it back up. At a minimum, put a meter on the output terminals to see if they are shorted. When the fets die, most of the time the short. Ideally i would open it and check all the fets, but that means voiding the warranty.
Nah it would be illegal for them to void your warranty by opening the amp up and removing a warranty sticker. ruclips.net/video/lDNg3WYaAAc/видео.html They'd have to prove that you damaged the device by opening it.
this is what exactly happened to me with my brand new md12k taramps.... i added some dual 0 gauge inputs on each input and accidentally one of the + wires from the battery bank touched the body and sparked heavily (pRRRRRAAAAAKKKKKKKKKKKKK!!!) the amp was hooked up during this and i finished up and turn the music on and the amp went in protect so i turned it off and immediately turned it back on after about 5 secs and boom i head a pop inside te amp.....opened it up and the output mosfets (some of them) were blown and yea i ca bet the drivers are gone>
As someone who has a vehicle where a high output alternator DOESNT exists (other then power bastards but I’m not risking that after the reading I’ve done) seeing you run 12k with a stock alt is dope! I’ve been slowly learning more about what to do and how to do stuff with car audio and your channel has been my go to for learning stuff.
It certainly doesn't have to be a full on sponsorship, but I'm sure an amp company would be willing to give him a good quality high power amp to run their their brand in his testing vehicle. They would get showcased in every video. Taramps gets this for free every video right now
I have the MD8000 and one day the fans were louder than normal, i went to check it out and i hit the amp hard with my had, fans went back to normal and the amp started playing allot louder, checked the gain setting with the DD1 and still no distortion, go figure, it likes a good spanking once in a while... i got to give it to Taramps it makes the power but very flimsy built.
You've reminded me, I need to install a legit fire ext. in my Project Fire Hazard. It has that name for a reason, and my lil RZR-2500D gets hot running 1ohm. But, now that my 12v power has been strengthened, should help it. I know this from watching Taramps catch fire from running undervolted. Edit: I have installed a legit auto/RV fire ext. since this post. $14 from Wal-Mart.
I had taramps for the last 4 years. I killed it by shorting the speakers leads, but it got repaired and it's still working fine. I like how small taramps are and how much power they can push out.
Here in Brazil we really like Taramps amps, it's really cool to see it's becoming famous around the world. I give more importance to it's sound quality and real power (most times higher than the declared by the brand) than to a premium feeling, and never had so many problems with those amps. Maybe you could give more space between the subwoofers and the amp, it would prevent the amp of vibrating as much causing problems to it's components. Nice video!
As a retired amp repair guy your # 1 issue is having the Amp on the box u will introduce alot of vibration which may make your transformer windings rub together and offset the power supply and hurt your fets or keep going into protect and u can't figure why
I can tell you that most of the failures with most of the fullbridge amplifiers like The taramps md 12k , are how the fans push air inward on the fets. If any debris contacts and shorts the fets... well it's a mini 4th of july show. Fullbridge amplifiers will get better over time. In the meantime, just use some sort of dust filter with limited air flow restrictions. This will keep them from collecting debris. I have repaired a few fullbridge amplifiers and discovered this issue to be one of the main reasons. Shout out to Barvids for his knowledge and I know he is more knowledgeable as he has taught me a lot .
Shorting speaker leads , to high an input voltage , and screwing them to the sub box will fuck them up. Keep them fed and dont do the other 3 things and your brazillian amp will last. Or should i say full bridge rail voltage amp, every company is making a copy of them now.
I went through 4 skar amps and I'm still trying to get a good one from them. they were all brand new. some were defective others arrived damaged from skar (not shipping.) I love their subs. the amps really disappointed me. I'm going to try one more time before I switch to a different brand. skar customer service is really good. I'm thankful for that.
Wow i guess im lucky cause i have lithium in my truck and 3 times the lithium has touched ground and it was 4th of july inside my truck smh 😬 both my Taramps MD 12000 did go into protection mode but came back on and are still playing. 🤷🏽♂️ even on time the ground slipped out of the lithium terminal and touched power, sparks and smoke as u guessed but both amps still played sooo 🤷🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️ what can i say these amps are tanks for me
Be careful buying these from SHCA (sky high car audio). I got one that came in with a fan assembly rolling around in the amp. I sent them videos and pictures. They agreed that it was damaged in shipping, but refused to pay for return shipping. Their logic was "well we paid to ship it to you, and are going to pay to ship you another one, so you can pay $30+ to send it back to us." lol
Sky high must suck if that’s how they treat customers. A good company that wants repeat business would never do that. Creative audio, crutchfield and CT sounds are good to deal with.
You realize you're supposed to buy the BASS series for your subs right? Those are meant for extremely large mids and woofer systems like they do in Russia and shit
@@sethh8892 I've owned several of both, couldn't tell any difference between them. Not saying there isn't a difference, just saying they sounded the same to me, but I use my own pre amp eq.
Make sure your output voltage coming off of the head unit is not more than 1.5 volts taramps don’t like it, you can check, and adjust it with a volt meeter
😯DAAAMN bro!!! I've had my STETSOM 8K for almost a year never had a problem with it yet! But I ordered it directly from the manufacturer NOT a dealer!!!
It's funny you mention that cause my.buddy keeps bad mouthing my Stetson 3k and he brags that his md taramps 3k us better than my stetsom. He claims that my Stetsom will burn up on me before his does. And then I seen this video. I've personally only had some heating issues but once I bought a fan , I now have no more heating issues with my Stetson and its actually slamming so hard with my single 15 zvx.
@@RomaVilla I meant to say above 12 volts! But I got 3 setups right now bro. But the STETSOM is powering two Memphis LVS 15's while I prepare to start my wall build
Ive always bought Korean made amps. Yes they are more expensive bought i have never had any issues with any of the 4 that ive purchased heck 2 of them i ran at half ohm for over a yr no problem only reason for getting rid of them is for upgrade reasons. I love Korean amps because at least the ones i owned was hugely underrated and did 500-1000 or more than what they was rated for.
The reason you have to keep replacing that amp is because taramps can’t take direct vibration that well. Mounting a taramps on a subwoofer enclosure would never last and will always fail. Mount the amp somewhere else and you will not have to replace it again. And put rubber feet on it too.
Been beating my 5000.1 Taramp with (3) 950 batteries and (2) 200 Amp circuit breakers. (1) 12 D2 FI Audio 4500 watts in a 38hz tuned box sitting in my E350 Benz , mad Bass never been disappointed!
Apocalypse 7900.1 snag one before the price doubles man. I did. 649. It replaced the 7800.1 which went up to 1199..... now the 7900 is 649 but for sure will double to 1200. Bro..... it's def bonce and soundigital together.....8000 watts at 12 volts... I have a 3800.1 too and it went from 499 to 799!!! Cannot beat that 7900.1 price!!!!!! Snag one bro!!!!
Haha I done a similar thing to my pioneer amp, car was off but I decided I wanted to but a wire ferrule on my 12v + - and didn't even think to disconnect battery for the simple job, carefully done - easy then doing the + I acidently dropped it and it welded to the body of the amp and actually took a good 10 seconds of glowing until it popped the fuse, it actually popped my radio fuse as well so maybe went up RCA? Anyway a nice arc mark on my amp and it worked no problems. I just get on and off pops now from the radio, even when changing radio station :(
I had the same thing happen on an 8K accidentally shorted the remote line to the speaker with the car off apparently there was some voltage enough to pop whatever internally but it never came on again sent it back got another one cuz it was a third party warranty through SquareTrade but I've owned four or five now of the taramps MD yes they're not top quality yes the fans are loud but I honestly have no other complaints definitely best bang-for-the-buck for anyone out there looking
Nah, not really. Look at extremely large SPL systems where all the amplifiers are just mounted to the back of the box. In systems that large there is no location in the vehicle that is away from vibration. The subs go out faster than their amps do, mainly due to the fact that they are professionals and actually buy the proper products. The guy in the video is not the brightest... He's buying the wrong amplifier for the wrong application. The one he should be buying is the BASS series amps, but he doesn't know that he is running a woofer amp.
Personally, I prefer a solid Korean half bridge, even though the size and cost are both bigger. They are just more reliable and well made overall, assuming you got a good brand. Amp prices are really high right now. 9k Wolfram used to be $900-$1000 but now it's $1300-$1400 for the same amp because of tariffs and crap.
And this is why I run Korean half bridge. Beat them like rented Mules daily and they just take it for car after car! Got one system all JL thats 10 years old still sounds amazing and can bang! My DC audio system has been in two delivery cars so it’s been played almost non stop for 5 years now and it’s all still going good! Did have to replace one battery and a few highs and mids but that was my fault not the equipment! Well sort of!
Brooo, I bought taramps 3000 amp last year in india. My bro in usa recommended it to me as it was cheap af compared to other amps. BUT when I got it I saw it’s build quality was below average. It lasted only 7 months that too on a 1000 watt sub on 2 ohms. Now I have sundown audio amp and it’s running like a champ.
Your install is clean. wiring looks very professional. But like mentioned below you need to change how your amp is mounted. the more you can reduce vibration the longer your amp will last you. Granted the entire vehicle vibrates so can't eliminate all the vibration but help reduce it. Glad someone can admit they made the mistake that caused second amp to die. It's easy to point a finger and post a negative review. I've been running my MD8000.1 for a year and no problems what so ever. No one has ever claimed Taramps to be top of the line but definitely best bang for your buck!
The amp is mounted to a wall (with rubber grommets) that is not connected to my box. The Failures had nothing to do with vibration. One was damaged in shipping and the other was my fault. Live and earn haha! They really are the best bang for the buck
Whether you shorted the speaker leads or not the protection circuit should’ve prevented total amp failure. Did they warranty the amp? If not why? Did you pay for repair? Why buy a brand new third amp? Hope they gave you a discount for the free advertising & promo!
I'm on my second JP95. I have a 500 watt 2 ohm sub and I blew it on the JP95. The sub became 0 ohms and took out the sub channel. It should have had protection for that but it didn't work.
Man good thing to see someone be honest and say hey it was my fault i did the damage, i followed you for a really long time and you have came a very long way Parker dont stop now! Hope your new 12k makes it longer than 6 months keep it up man
Had an amp rack built at a shop, they didn’t mount it right, my amp fell the leads touched and fried my sundown salt amp, shop took full responsibility and paid me for the amp, I could have avoided that if i wasn’t to lazy to do it myself.
Up in smoke! Well there goes your chances (up in smoke) at Taramps sponsoring future episodes 😆 Actually, now they may feel more inclined to, to prove themselves. As they should❗btw I greatly appreciate the honesty and unbiasedness you provide. Please don't EVER allow ANYONE OR ANY COMPANY to persuade your opinion. That trait alone will ensure your channels success. Please make a video showing how many dBs more you can get by going from one sub, to two identical subs!? Does it increase by 3 dB (doubling output)? I'd think this topic ought to go viral.
I need to find a cheap used one with over 1k watts. I paid over 200$ for 250 watts for a Rockford amp. Totally not worth it. I could have been upgrading part of my system instead I messed up being an uneducated consumer. The quality is great but for the price I could have easily gotten 1k or more.
I swapped out 2 smart bass 3ks for a smart 8 bass. Had the 3s in for 4 months. The 8 lasted 5 days. Strong smell n shit off. No smoke or sparks. 2.5v preouts, 15.7v charging . Not sure what happened. Put a 3 back in all good. Guess i got a dud. Now im too worried to use abother one. Can't risk my other equipment. Going back to korean. Very disappointing. Going from the 2 3ks to the 8k i gained 1.5 db on the meter too. I really like how it puts out full power from .5 ohm to 2 ohm. Helps with box rise. Hope my korean 8k is as loud. Pretty sure im going with the soundqube q1 8k.
It's issues we all deal with my friend. The dos and donts we all learn from. I completely understand some of reasons to watch out for on certain amps like that Taramp. I have had many amps blow on me. There are some that just don't handle what we want them to. Thanks for sharing my friend.
Last week i burnt up my soundigital evo 5k, it had amazing rms power! One the Moffetts burnt. I now have bought the taramps smart 5 bass, does 2 through .5 ohm, its a beast!! Hands down amazing raw rms compared to my evo 5k... the smart 5 bass has dual power inputs and is same size as my buddys soundigital evo 8k ...
I have the smart5 as well, im only running 2 evl 12s, so I haven't seen the full potential yet. But it's ridiculous! Those 12s won't last much longer, wich will give me a reason to buy new subs 😄. What you running?
Ever thought about putting your hand on the amp and seeing if it is vibrating? Because I really think that is your problem and not the cheap cardboard packaging it came in!
wow parker!! i always wonderd why you used taramps! they have so maney car amplifiers on amazon. its insane!! lucky we got you awesome u tubers that test stuff out and save us consumers the hearteach! saving both sides from the crap on the market!!
You need to put some padding between the subs and the amp so that the amp is not taking so much vibration from the box. It's probably rattling the components to death. It will help with the shock waves
I haven’t killed my 12K yet in my big build vehicle I have 1000ah of reserve for both of my 12k’s with a XS Power D975 powering the mids and highs amp it’s like 100ah for my Crescendo Symphony 1k and that does amazing for that, but anyway I have 4 Mechman 370a alts plus my stock 90a alt charging the XS Power D975. And I have had everything running for about 4 years now. Note everything is on switches except my Crescendo so I can turn off my amps to avoid those problems all together.
You need a ton of amperage on tap for that big amplifier.. Multiple AGM's or a 100 amp hour lithium. Even if you aren't driving it hard. Realistically, you should have two alternators as well for that size amp.
The problem is that the protection circuit in these Taramps takes a while to kick on and isn't fast enough so you can't really trust it for that. The second amp would be worth repairing though
Taranps Brazilian full bridge amps blow so easily. Thats why I use a Chinese amp half bridge, because they are nearly indestructible. I can literally turn it up all the way and short out the speaker wires and nothing happens.
You should try the POWERUS 10K WAY BETTER QUALITY...BUDGET GEM BUST DID A TEST DID LIKE 15 K AT 1 OHM AND HAS BETTER EVERYTHING. ITS A GOOD BRAZILIAN AMP
It's like anything else, you only hear about the bad. So many run taramps with no issues. They do need better packaging. Brazilian based stuff is also very particular on how they want your electrical. Like top to.bottom you can't short cut them or you will have problems. That's your trade off for the watt for dollor. I know our guy has better electrical than most but he has been changing things on the regular.
@@tyjuanthrasher4226 yeah the knobs definitely feel cheap. I don't use that bass boost at all though. It only boost that certain frequency that you set it to with the knob to the left of it.
Do these amps sound good? I’m looking for some quality sounding power for a decent price. I need a lot of power like these provide but I probably am just listening at normal levels 80% of the time. Do these sound clean enough for that kind of use or are they mainly just good for getting loud?
What happened to the Audiopipe amp? I have had great luck with the one I bought. It's only a 2k. Have you looked the Alphard amps, they seem nice and pretty inexpensive?
I have a Deaf Bonce 13K amp and it looks so beautiful! Lol it only costs me $1000... I haven’t installed it yet due to the fact that I need to buy more stuff for it like new alternator, more batteries, etc etc. I might just put the DB amp in my car and have it sit there lol
@@catch22frubert I should mention it voids the warranty removing the bottom plate, the little tamper evident sticker ya know. Very big pads to solder on to and is super easy though.
I really disagree amps mounted on the subwoofer enclosure, receiving all vibrations. In addition, if you open a huge amount of amplifiers, you can see a lack of glue between the circuit board and heavy components like coils, capacitors, power wiring... I always do a review and some improvements on the amplifiers (and stereo players) before install. If necessary I print a fake warranty tags in order to mantain the warranty.
I made the same error on a SoundQubed S12250. I shorted out the pos and neg output wires and it went into protect, but it also fried most the mosfets. Anyway, I believe they should have sent me a new amp because its supposed to go into protect to keep it from frying but it did not. It did go into protect but it fried and stayed in protect. B.S! They charged me $120 to fix it and I had to pay to ship it to them. Was my fault, but like you said, " thats what the protection is supposed to be there for."
Hi. Thanks for the tips on the Taramps. What about, can you link me to the dual 2/0 inputs you have on there?! Those are dual 2/0 inputs on there aren’t they? I don’t want to get incorrect inputs. Thanks.
Most amps won't protect from that , many DD amps will blow all the outputs if shorted .. protection circuits arnt designed for a hard short , never seen one fast enough
I'd never run a Brazilian full-bridge amp due to all of the issues that seem to come up from them clocking all of the parts into overdrive, they seem like a gamble on whether it's going to last or not and they also seem like a fire hazard honestly.. I only run half-bridge Korean amps and would rather sacrifice the $ per watt for something I know I won't have to replace or worry about anytime soon
according to most people I've been abusing my md8k but been running over a year ran it on stock alts ran gain too high and mounted so that it bounces and it's still kicking now before you try the keyboard warrior thing I have fixed all those issues and still have no issues
Idk why you quit using the rp-2k so quickly but... I bought one at the same time you told me to buy the elites around mid February. First one came, I was breaking my subs in so I ran at 4 ohm. It lasted 7 days n went into permanent protect. 2nd one came and I hooked it up to 1 ohm instantly. It lasted 9 days and went into protect again! 3rd one came, and was dropped and damaged internally during shipping. So I'm on 4th one now. Never once went into protect. And been running it 45 days or so. And I'm okay w it. But I feel like I'm just waiting for it to happen. Big d wiz told me not to buy it, cuz it's unreliable. I clearly didn't listen lol. So that's my experience with Skar RP-2000.1D
@@ParkerTheBasshead apparently, it's a known problem. I know ur kinda in the public eye of car audio nowadays, and you won't say too much negative about a company because of that. But I was sold on skar. I liked the name, the logo, the rms ratings, the cool looking sleek equipment. But in all reality, the company is a shit can. Sdr's suck. Evl's blow at rated power. Rp-2000 has permanent protect problems. Etc. So I'm gonna get away from Skar at this point. I actually looked into that solid ass audiopipe 3k cuz they're amazing, but the price sky rocketed and that particular one isn't the easiest to buy. You can find the 1.8k's pretty easy. And the 2k. But that 3k is a unicorn lol. I'm kinda angry at American bass cuz I bought a shirt and got the runaround for 3 months until they finally gave me a refund. If I can't get a shirt, what makes me think they would send a $400 amp if I bought one? They're local to me and I was gonna go there myself, but this corona shit has everything on lock lol. I got my elites from audio savings on eBay. But honestly thru all the bs, the car audio shit is just getting exhausting. And companies suck anymore. Making me wanna give it up honestly. I wish the understood its not cool to fuck customers over. Sorry man, rant over lol. Got carried away.
Nice amps, too bad about the internal protection though With that said, you might want to consider adding dust filters on the intakes of those fans - I was watching another video where the reviewer was complaining about dust and debris buildup in his Taramp amp, which eventually lead to failure.
I believe I know which video you're referring to and if you look closely it did that at 12.55 volts. Which is great because it's rated at 12k at 14.4 volts so if they did the dyno again and checked it at that voltage it may do at least 13k
Ultra careful, No. Just follow standard procedure. Car off and main fuse removed or breaker disconnected before working on you system. I seen few amp blow like that. Earthquake and MTX.
RIP. Well im hoping they sent you a replacement for free. From the look if it you only blew a few FETS in the output section of the amp. Honestly assuming the drive circuit is in tact you could probably fix the amp for less than 50 bucks.
I wouldn’t tell you to mount that amp on the box. You might be having trouble with the amp because of vibration. I had a similar problem with a dsp3000. I went through 3 of them under warranty. I moved it off the box and never had a problem since. It’s been 1 year and a few months now.
These brazilian amps may have big power, they tends to have a lot of issues. My Taramps and Sound digital were problematic. Korean amps (American Bass) amp seen to have the better quality build but less power. Chinese amps like my Audiopipes have been solid for over a year.
Wats up Parker? Can you confirm if these MD models will pick up frequencies below 30hz? Thinking about getting the MD5000.1 for my setup. I'm replacing my ORION XTR4000.1
I will pay the shipping if you send me that amp that's burned. I have fixed a few 1k amps and would love the opportunity to repair and upgraded one like this. Either way nice setup clean powerful and not complicated. Good work.
funny thing is when I had had a pioneer amp I upgraded to a fosgate amp and failed to realize that the power terminals were backwards so I connected it the same I turned it on but nothing happened so I went to check it and realized I had screwed up luckily I flipped them and got lucky cause the amp still works to this day it took a beating like a champ with massive voltage drop now it bangs harder after I had upgraded the alt. Maybe I got lucky the amp should have blew up but it didnt although im looking for something around the same power and is more efficient its a r1200 prime.
Someone told me a while ago that there are bootleg ones. You can tell by the color of the cover. I run taramp hd no issues. He showed me a bootleg one. the cover was white but the real ones are suppose to be silver
![Taramps Smart 3 Detailed Review and Amp Dyno - 3000 watts Done Right! [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DxMGPhNASl4/mqdefault.jpg)
![Taramps Smart 3 Detailed Review and Amp Dyno - 3000 watts Done Right! [4K]](/img/tr.png)
You are going to continue to have issues if you keep mounting your amp on your enclosure! Mount that monster in a spot with some deadener behind it. You will also need an upgraded alternator.
His amp isn't mounted to the enclosure. He did a video a little while back showing the building & installation of his amp rack.
Joe B - It shouldn’t be anywhere near that enclosure, period. I don’t care what he built to hold it. That is just way too much flex my man.
He really does not need a bigger alternator with all that lithium he just needs to keep them charged
Garlicbread Riders - Yes he does, and honestly he should have a least two Mechmans for that kind of power. That amp needs stable high power at all times. There is a trade off with budget power. A top notch Orion or Rockford amp can withstand instability, but not Taramps, so the trade off is spending thousands on electrical instead of thousands on amps. You can fight it all you want, but you will eventually lose.
Garlicbread Riders - Guess what? He just installed a more powerful alternator.
He explained everything at mark 9:00, the first amp came damaged, second and he shorted the speaker outputs, and now he's on his third amp. So for all you ragging on the MD 12000 the only problem I see was in packaging and shipping on the first amp. I've own Brazilian ams for over 5 years with not a single problem. Ds18 fr6000 Korean made amp. Prv 8000d, Taramps md8000.1. (2) taramps 1200x4 and (2)MD 1800.1. like I said I've never had a single problem out of any of them, I will never go back to those high prices Korean based amps.
But see the problem is the youtube comment sections are where people tend to congregate after making it past 3rd grade then dropping out i guess.
MASTERT KILLA - Took the words right off of my fingertips.😂
But have you ran them at .5 ohm yet tho🤔🤔
How was the DS18? Wolfram is releasing their own version of that Korean full bridge for really cheap. 2.4k RMS for $200, 5k for $300
Next issue I can see is I noticed alot of flex on that wall, that will take out/kill any amp, Amps hate vibrations, and indeed they need a ton of support, just got my sd12k and I'm being recommended to run 3 banks of 35ah lithium and triple inputs, I own a ds18 hooligan spl 5k also and I absolutely love the look and the feel of that 5k, puts out what it claims if not alittle more, but would definitely be more careful on swapping things back and fourth on them amps and be sure to figure out a good spot where it will get little to no vibrations or be able to flex the board, Amos will last forever if you take the proper precautions
My md8k is mounted on 3/4" piece of Baltic birch bolted to the floor. 3 15s just beat the snot out of my truck and no issues as if yet with my Taramps
Flex!? It looks like he built it from 1/4 inch it flexes so much. Yes that’s the issue. It’s him he can’t see that he is destroying his own stuff? Omg these kids
@@guyww8516 not to mention that he's gotten the wrong amp. These are meant for mids and large woofer systems. Kind of like what you see the Russians driving around with 20 12" woofers. It even tells you on the box that it's not necessarily meant for subwoofer applications, that's the whole reason they have their "Bass" line of amplifiers.
Exactly. He a idiiiiiot
Thanks for being honest and owning up to it, and making us aware. I'll own up to mine. I pulled out my Skar rp1500.1d and assumed I knew which was the power wire vs ground 4g. I should've easily looked and double checked. Well I hooked up power and ground reverse in the amp. When I go to put the battery on, the fused connection after the battery saved my ass. Lit up and melted the 150 amp ANL fuse. I corrected it the next morning when I figured out what happened. The amp works fine, no issues. It's the Taramps Smart 3.
How does that skar amp
Preform ? Thinking of getting one
Measure twice cut once!!!🤔😉 A lesson that won't soon be forgotten.💥😫
@@nnnvv2121 mine heats up too easily for what I want it to do.
Running rp1500.1d on skar svr 15. Sometimes two 15s.
Either way it heats up on short drives and below full tilt so meh
I remember most 1000 watt amps looked like this size 20 yrs ago🔥
Shizzz my old California a1200 max 600w was a foot longer
Yup them Ole 90's ppi joints were huge!
Class ab and class d fullbridge cant be compared at all
@@CVLova im comparing footprint "Einstein".....i never gave any details, if you can read you can clearly see all of what I said.
Haha yep i had a 1000 watt Coustic amp pawn shop special on 2 kicker comp 15s in the late 90s that was a good 18" long or more easily! Went to a soundstream reference 500sx after that which finally gave out recently. Finally went class D with a Fosgate 500 mono block. Amazing how small it is for the power output. Literally half the size of the ref 500. That taramps 12k is a beast though damn!
You need to worry about shorting leads no matter what electrical component/device you're working with. A higher quality amp will not change that.
You're though Taramps aren't high quality they're because they're cheap
When you shorted the terminals, you killed some output fets. They were shorted. And the amp went into protect avoiding further damage. When you power cycled, the amp has a delay built in on the protect circuit to allow it to start while its charging caps, checking systems and initializing drivers. That delay was enough to allow the amp to power on the power supply into a short(the output fet(s) that got damaged durind the short of the leads. This most likely cooked the remaining output fets on the affected bank, the power supply fets are probably done and the class d drivers.
I would recommend anyone with a taramps that if you trow it into protect, at least by shorting terminals or blowing speakers, DO Not power it back up. At a minimum, put a meter on the output terminals to see if they are shorted. When the fets die, most of the time the short. Ideally i would open it and check all the fets, but that means voiding the warranty.
Nah it would be illegal for them to void your warranty by opening the amp up and removing a warranty sticker.
ruclips.net/video/lDNg3WYaAAc/видео.html
They'd have to prove that you damaged the device by opening it.
this is what exactly happened to me with my brand new md12k taramps.... i added some dual 0 gauge inputs on each input and accidentally one of the + wires from the battery bank touched the body and sparked heavily (pRRRRRAAAAAKKKKKKKKKKKKK!!!) the amp was hooked up during this and i finished up and turn the music on and the amp went in protect so i turned it off and immediately turned it back on after about 5 secs and boom i head a pop inside te amp.....opened it up and the output mosfets (some of them) were blown and yea i ca bet the drivers are gone>
As someone who has a vehicle where a high output alternator DOESNT exists (other then power bastards but I’m not risking that after the reading I’ve done) seeing you run 12k with a stock alt is dope! I’ve been slowly learning more about what to do and how to do stuff with car audio and your channel has been my go to for learning stuff.
I run 16k rms on a stock alt I just have a lot of 12v xs power agm 6 d7500s i charge at night after a lot of demos with a 15a xs power intellicharger
90% of Alts in America don't fit cars in Australia for example, get a metal fabricator, make your own bracket
You could contact Barevids and get an explanation of what might’ve happened to ur 2nd amp. He’s very knowledgeable on car amps.
He said he shorted the output terminals.
he says exactly what happened to it....watch the video
I’m talking about giving a breakdown on what happened in the circuity itself.
Change all output fet's and it will fire up and work again, i have fixed several Taramps because of that fault 🤗
@@icebreaker2k3 The damn amp produces so much sound it distructs itself from the outside...
Someone really needs to sponsor you man with a high end amp.. your doing a really good job with your videos.. Thanks bro
Why? His bread and butter is showing cheap shit to cheap Ppl making ad rev
It doesn't have to be a total loss if he selling the blown amp I'll buy it
Dude fix the other 2 and make a monster bass setup
CrimsonScythe - And spend thousands on electrical and a wall build?
It certainly doesn't have to be a full on sponsorship, but I'm sure an amp company would be willing to give him a good quality high power amp to run their their brand in his testing vehicle. They would get showcased in every video. Taramps gets this for free every video right now
I have the MD8000 and one day the fans were louder than normal, i went to check it out and i hit the amp hard with my had, fans went back to normal and the amp started playing allot louder, checked the gain setting with the DD1 and still no distortion, go figure, it likes a good spanking once in a while... i got to give it to Taramps it makes the power but very flimsy built.
You've reminded me, I need to install a legit fire ext. in my Project Fire Hazard. It has that name for a reason, and my lil RZR-2500D gets hot running 1ohm. But, now that my 12v power has been strengthened, should help it. I know this from watching Taramps catch fire from running undervolted.
Edit: I have installed a legit auto/RV fire ext. since this post. $14 from Wal-Mart.
Stop using wal mart if possible.
Williston labs has a great explanation of the smart 3 buy tara amps and bass series ....and how the internal caps work
Junk
I had taramps for the last 4 years. I killed it by shorting the speakers leads, but it got repaired and it's still working fine. I like how small taramps are and how much power they can push out.
Any comment on the da 440 by 4?
@@shaquiloneale1850 It's a great amplifier. ruclips.net/video/vyh2mpEbxcw/видео.html It can delivery more than 500 watts at 14.4V
Here in Brazil we really like Taramps amps, it's really cool to see it's becoming famous around the world. I give more importance to it's sound quality and real power (most times higher than the declared by the brand) than to a premium feeling, and never had so many problems with those amps.
Maybe you could give more space between the subwoofers and the amp, it would prevent the amp of vibrating as much causing problems to it's components.
Nice video!
Do you use fuse for your amplifier?
As a retired amp repair guy your # 1 issue is having the Amp on the box u will introduce alot of vibration which may make your transformer windings rub together and offset the power supply and hurt your fets or keep going into protect and u can't figure why
Could this also be the reason the amp won’t turn on ? , I’m getting power threw the wires and everything but the amp just won’t cut on 😊
I can tell you that most of the failures with most of the fullbridge amplifiers like The taramps md 12k , are how the fans push air inward on the fets. If any debris contacts and shorts the fets... well it's a mini 4th of july show. Fullbridge amplifiers will get better over time. In the meantime, just use some sort of dust filter with limited air flow restrictions. This will keep them from collecting debris. I have repaired a few fullbridge amplifiers and discovered this issue to be one of the main reasons. Shout out to Barvids for his knowledge and I know he is more knowledgeable as he has taught me a lot .
Shorting speaker leads , to high an input voltage , and screwing them to the sub box will fuck them up. Keep them fed and dont do the other 3 things and your brazillian amp will last. Or should i say full bridge rail voltage amp, every company is making a copy of them now.
I went through 4 skar amps and I'm still trying to get a good one from them. they were all brand new. some were defective others arrived damaged from skar (not shipping.) I love their subs. the amps really disappointed me. I'm going to try one more time before I switch to a different brand. skar customer service is really good. I'm thankful for that.
Mount the amp elsewhere vibration killing them or not helping
Wow i guess im lucky cause i have lithium in my truck and 3 times the lithium has touched ground and it was 4th of july inside my truck smh 😬 both my Taramps MD 12000 did go into protection mode but came back on and are still playing. 🤷🏽♂️ even on time the ground slipped out of the lithium terminal and touched power, sparks and smoke as u guessed but both amps still played sooo 🤷🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️ what can i say these amps are tanks for me
Same happened to me man. I have the Bass 3K and damn like you said it looked like 4th of July in dis bihh. Lol it just keeps on going though.
How long was it in protection mode ? Before it came back ?
How long was it on protecting mode before it came back
Robert Coronado I just turned my car off and back on and it was good. But I have the BASS 3K Amp. Not the MD.
James Jeffrey plummer I have the MD 8k Whats the difference on the md and the bass ?
Be careful buying these from SHCA (sky high car audio). I got one that came in with a fan assembly rolling around in the amp. I sent them videos and pictures. They agreed that it was damaged in shipping, but refused to pay for return shipping. Their logic was "well we paid to ship it to you, and are going to pay to ship you another one, so you can pay $30+ to send it back to us." lol
That’s not as bad as me man had to send back a massive hifonics after it broke on me in 30 minutes of play 62$ shipping I was like dang man.
@@jessehoeper Yep, not buying any amps or subs from them ever again, their wire is good though.
GuitarHeroGage mine was from theamplab but I was pissed 30 minutes and she was puffing smoke.
Sky high must suck if that’s how they treat customers. A good company that wants repeat business would never do that. Creative audio, crutchfield and CT sounds are good to deal with.
I own both the MD12k and the MD8k and both very solid. Say what you want but I’m Team Taramps for life...lol.
Me too, they so cheap that if my 8k blows I'll just buy the 15k to replace it. Lol
Yea I have a bass 8k can’t beat it for the price
You realize you're supposed to buy the BASS series for your subs right? Those are meant for extremely large mids and woofer systems like they do in Russia and shit
@@sethh8892 I've owned several of both, couldn't tell any difference between them. Not saying there isn't a difference, just saying they sounded the same to me, but I use my own pre amp eq.
So I should buy the 8 k amp for my 2 4k subs ??
Make sure your output voltage coming off of the head unit is not more than 1.5 volts taramps don’t like it, you can check, and adjust it with a volt meeter
😯DAAAMN bro!!! I've had my STETSOM 8K for almost a year never had a problem with it yet! But I ordered it directly from the manufacturer NOT a dealer!!!
Owned a Stetsom 6k for over a year and an 8k for 6 months
It's funny you mention that cause my.buddy keeps bad mouthing my Stetson 3k and he brags that his md taramps 3k us better than my stetsom. He claims that my Stetsom will burn up on me before his does. And then I seen this video. I've personally only had some heating issues but once I bought a fan , I now have no more heating issues with my Stetson and its actually slamming so hard with my single 15 zvx.
@@RomaVilla FOR SURE BRO!!! As long as you keep the volts above 12 good to go
@@74midwestbass74 good looking out bro, I'm definitely upgrading my alt asap... By the way what kind of set up are you running right now?
@@RomaVilla I meant to say above 12 volts! But I got 3 setups right now bro. But the STETSOM is powering two Memphis LVS 15's while I prepare to start my wall build
Ive always bought Korean made amps. Yes they are more expensive bought i have never had any issues with any of the 4 that ive purchased heck 2 of them i ran at half ohm for over a yr no problem only reason for getting rid of them is for upgrade reasons. I love Korean amps because at least the ones i owned was hugely underrated and did 500-1000 or more than what they was rated for.
The reason you have to keep replacing that amp is because taramps can’t take direct vibration that well. Mounting a taramps on a subwoofer enclosure would never last and will always fail. Mount the amp somewhere else and you will not have to replace it again. And put rubber feet on it too.
Love your videos man. A 12k amp screwed to a flexing box will never last more than 6-9 months, if that.
Been beating my 5000.1 Taramp with (3) 950 batteries and (2) 200 Amp circuit breakers. (1) 12 D2 FI Audio 4500 watts in a 38hz tuned box sitting in my E350 Benz , mad Bass never been disappointed!
Apocalypse 7900.1 snag one before the price doubles man. I did. 649. It replaced the 7800.1 which went up to 1199..... now the 7900 is 649 but for sure will double to 1200. Bro..... it's def bonce and soundigital together.....8000 watts at 12 volts... I have a 3800.1 too and it went from 499 to 799!!! Cannot beat that 7900.1 price!!!!!! Snag one bro!!!!
I have the Deaf Bonce 12,900 amp and it looks so beautiful
Haha I done a similar thing to my pioneer amp, car was off but I decided I wanted to but a wire ferrule on my 12v + - and didn't even think to disconnect battery for the simple job, carefully done - easy then doing the + I acidently dropped it and it welded to the body of the amp and actually took a good 10 seconds of glowing until it popped the fuse, it actually popped my radio fuse as well so maybe went up RCA? Anyway a nice arc mark on my amp and it worked no problems. I just get on and off pops now from the radio, even when changing radio station :(
I had the same thing happen on an 8K accidentally shorted the remote line to the speaker with the car off apparently there was some voltage enough to pop whatever internally but it never came on again sent it back got another one cuz it was a third party warranty through SquareTrade but I've owned four or five now of the taramps MD yes they're not top quality yes the fans are loud but I honestly have no other complaints definitely best bang-for-the-buck for anyone out there looking
Vibration on the board from the bass box cant make parts break on the more and short off
Nah, not really. Look at extremely large SPL systems where all the amplifiers are just mounted to the back of the box. In systems that large there is no location in the vehicle that is away from vibration. The subs go out faster than their amps do, mainly due to the fact that they are professionals and actually buy the proper products. The guy in the video is not the brightest... He's buying the wrong amplifier for the wrong application. The one he should be buying is the BASS series amps, but he doesn't know that he is running a woofer amp.
Personally, I prefer a solid Korean half bridge, even though the size and cost are both bigger. They are just more reliable and well made overall, assuming you got a good brand. Amp prices are really high right now. 9k Wolfram used to be $900-$1000 but now it's $1300-$1400 for the same amp because of tariffs and crap.
I agree. Apparently QC is cut as well as the price 😉.
Just bought a d4s jp23 and the bass broke parts in my trunk. Def don’t need 12,000 watts in the hot hatches and midsize sedans I drive.
doesnt void your warrantly if you take the stickers off very carefully. Or bought it through amazon. amazon will let you return it no matter what.
And this is why I run Korean half bridge. Beat them like rented Mules daily and they just take it for car after car! Got one system all JL thats 10 years old still sounds amazing and can bang! My DC audio system has been in two delivery cars so it’s been played almost non stop for 5 years now and it’s all still going good! Did have to replace one battery and a few highs and mids but that was my fault not the equipment! Well sort of!
I seen that fire extinguisher in reaching distance for that fire maker.
Yessir gotta be ready 😂
Brooo, I bought taramps 3000 amp last year in india. My bro in usa recommended it to me as it was cheap af compared to other amps. BUT when I got it I saw it’s build quality was below average. It lasted only 7 months that too on a 1000 watt sub on 2 ohms. Now I have sundown audio amp and it’s running like a champ.
Your install is clean. wiring looks very professional. But like mentioned below you need to change how your amp is mounted. the more you can reduce vibration the longer your amp will last you. Granted the entire vehicle vibrates so can't eliminate all the vibration but help reduce it.
Glad someone can admit they made the mistake that caused second amp to die. It's easy to point a finger and post a negative review.
I've been running my MD8000.1 for a year and no problems what so ever. No one has ever claimed Taramps to be top of the line but definitely best bang for your buck!
The amp is mounted to a wall (with rubber grommets) that is not connected to my box. The Failures had nothing to do with vibration. One was damaged in shipping and the other was my fault. Live and earn haha! They really are the best bang for the buck
Whether you shorted the speaker leads or not the protection circuit should’ve prevented total amp failure. Did they warranty the amp? If not why? Did you pay for repair? Why buy a brand new third amp? Hope they gave you a discount for the free advertising & promo!
I'm on my second JP95. I have a 500 watt 2 ohm sub and I blew it on the JP95. The sub became 0 ohms and took out the sub channel. It should have had protection for that but it didn't work.
Have one 3 years now no issues
Man good thing to see someone be honest and say hey it was my fault i did the damage, i followed you for a really long time and you have came a very long way Parker dont stop now! Hope your new 12k makes it longer than 6 months keep it up man
I have a 650 Watt app is 25 years old and still working it was pushing for 12 kicker Solo-Baric not pushing for 12 L7 it works
Had an amp rack built at a shop, they didn’t mount it right, my amp fell the leads touched and fried my sundown salt amp, shop took full responsibility and paid me for the amp, I could have avoided that if i wasn’t to lazy to do it myself.
Up in smoke! Well there goes your chances (up in smoke) at Taramps sponsoring future episodes 😆 Actually, now they may feel more inclined to, to prove themselves. As they should❗btw I greatly appreciate the honesty and unbiasedness you provide. Please don't EVER allow ANYONE OR ANY COMPANY to persuade your opinion. That trait alone will ensure your channels success. Please make a video showing how many dBs more you can get by going from one sub, to two identical subs!? Does it increase by 3 dB (doubling output)? I'd think this topic ought to go viral.
Yeah man way more important to to me to make honest reviews than get sponsored
I just can’t come to buy Brazilian amps. I got JL, Soundqubed and Rockford Amps.
I feel ya ,I’d try one out if I got a gd deal on one cause seen a vid guy had like 4-6 12 “s on a amp similar taramps
I need to find a cheap used one with over 1k watts. I paid over 200$ for 250 watts for a Rockford amp. Totally not worth it. I could have been upgrading part of my system instead I messed up being an uneducated consumer. The quality is great but for the price I could have easily gotten 1k or more.
@@finnirish12 genius audio hd3000.1
You will need another battery though
I swapped out 2 smart bass 3ks for a smart 8 bass. Had the 3s in for 4 months. The 8 lasted 5 days. Strong smell n shit off. No smoke or sparks. 2.5v preouts, 15.7v charging . Not sure what happened. Put a 3 back in all good. Guess i got a dud. Now im too worried to use abother one. Can't risk my other equipment. Going back to korean. Very disappointing. Going from the 2 3ks to the 8k i gained 1.5 db on the meter too. I really like how it puts out full power from .5 ohm to 2 ohm. Helps with box rise. Hope my korean 8k is as loud. Pretty sure im going with the soundqube q1 8k.
It's issues we all deal with my friend. The dos and donts we all learn from. I completely understand some of reasons to watch out for on certain amps like that Taramp. I have had many amps blow on me. There are some that just don't handle what we want them to. Thanks for sharing my friend.
Can you show us how it happen when they 2 speaker wires touched make s video
it shorts. go take a battery hook jumper cables to it and clang the other ends together. That
Last week i burnt up my soundigital evo 5k, it had amazing rms power! One the Moffetts burnt. I now have bought the taramps smart 5 bass, does 2 through .5 ohm, its a beast!! Hands down amazing raw rms compared to my evo 5k... the smart 5 bass has dual power inputs and is same size as my buddys soundigital evo 8k ...
I have the smart5 as well, im only running 2 evl 12s, so I haven't seen the full potential yet. But it's ridiculous! Those 12s won't last much longer, wich will give me a reason to buy new subs 😄. What you running?
@@kevinriley5979 im running two hdc4 18s, box is 11.5 cubes after displacement tuned to 28hz
@@MyHairyChin damn now thats a 📦!
@@kevinriley5979 is your smart 5 the bass series? The smart 5 is diffrent from the smart 5 bass
Hey Parker,dude you are doing your thing bro,keep it up ! Awesome vid as always 👍
Ever thought about putting your hand on the amp and seeing if it is vibrating? Because I really think that is your problem and not the cheap cardboard packaging it came in!
wow parker!! i always wonderd why you used taramps! they have so maney car amplifiers on amazon. its insane!! lucky we got you awesome u tubers that test stuff out and save us consumers the hearteach! saving both sides from the crap on the market!!
You need to put some padding between the subs and the amp so that the amp is not taking so much vibration from the box. It's probably rattling the components to death. It will help with the shock waves
When I've seen videos of cars and sound trucks bursting into flames in the last ten years, it's always been Taramps, lol
Im so glad that you did this. I was about to buy one been looking at them for about a week
Wat u gone get
SUP DUDE! another good vid...man your doin something alot of us didnt do a LONG time ago..
I haven’t killed my 12K yet in my big build vehicle I have 1000ah of reserve for both of my 12k’s with a XS Power D975 powering the mids and highs amp it’s like 100ah for my Crescendo Symphony 1k and that does amazing for that, but anyway I have 4 Mechman 370a alts plus my stock 90a alt charging the XS Power D975. And I have had everything running for about 4 years now. Note everything is on switches except my Crescendo so I can turn off my amps to avoid those problems all together.
I had my skar 4500rms rp for about a year no problem
Same here👍
You need a ton of amperage on tap for that big amplifier.. Multiple AGM's or a 100 amp hour lithium. Even if you aren't driving it hard. Realistically, you should have two alternators as well for that size amp.
He has 128ah of lithium
Wow...the fans on the output end are practically useless. They aren't doing a thing spaced back from the vents.
The problem is that the protection circuit in these Taramps takes a while to kick on and isn't fast enough so you can't really trust it for that. The second amp would be worth repairing though
Taranps Brazilian full bridge amps blow so easily. Thats why I use a Chinese amp half bridge, because they are nearly indestructible. I can literally turn it up all the way and short out the speaker wires and nothing happens.
How did you use the CT Sounds knob on the 12k. I have a 8k and would like to do that
I was thinking it was because your stock alternator or the amp being mounted on the back of the box.
You should try the POWERUS 10K WAY BETTER QUALITY...BUDGET GEM BUST DID A TEST DID LIKE 15 K AT 1 OHM AND HAS BETTER EVERYTHING. ITS A GOOD BRAZILIAN AMP
That's your output mosfets that are damaged the crazy amount power coming out ..getting shorted together that will happen
It's like anything else, you only hear about the bad. So many run taramps with no issues. They do need better packaging. Brazilian based stuff is also very particular on how they want your electrical. Like top to.bottom you can't short cut them or you will have problems. That's your trade off for the watt for dollor. I know our guy has better electrical than most but he has been changing things on the regular.
I bought the smart 3k and the packaging was so bad. Amp works amazing but still wuts up with the lack of bubble wrap?
I had one for a week and the boost nob broke fam doesn’t work but holding up
@@tyjuanthrasher4226 yeah the knobs definitely feel cheap. I don't use that bass boost at all though. It only boost that certain frequency that you set it to with the knob to the left of it.
Do these amps sound good? I’m looking for some quality sounding power for a decent price. I need a lot of power like these provide but I probably am just listening at normal levels 80% of the time. Do these sound clean enough for that kind of use or are they mainly just good for getting loud?
What happened to the Audiopipe amp? I have had great luck with the one I bought. It's only a 2k. Have you looked the Alphard amps, they seem nice and pretty inexpensive?
Love all my ap amps 3k kicks ass
Or the wolfram amps
I have a Deaf Bonce 13K amp and it looks so beautiful! Lol it only costs me $1000... I haven’t installed it yet due to the fact that I need to buy more stuff for it like new alternator, more batteries, etc etc. I might just put the DB amp in my car and have it sit there lol
I replaced the fans with noctuas and they are dead silent.
That's a great mod 👍
@@catch22frubert I should mention it voids the warranty removing the bottom plate, the little tamper evident sticker ya know. Very big pads to solder on to and is super easy though.
I really disagree amps mounted on the subwoofer enclosure, receiving all vibrations. In addition, if you open a huge amount of amplifiers, you can see a lack of glue between the circuit board and heavy components like coils, capacitors, power wiring... I always do a review and some improvements on the amplifiers (and stereo players) before install. If necessary I print a fake warranty tags in order to mantain the warranty.
I have three MD12k in my build doind 160+ at 20HZ and 158 at 15HZ.
I have yet to have a failure.
I made the same error on a SoundQubed S12250. I shorted out the pos and neg output wires and it went into protect, but it also fried most the mosfets. Anyway, I believe they should have sent me a new amp because its supposed to go into protect to keep it from frying but it did not. It did go into protect but it fried and stayed in protect. B.S! They charged me $120 to fix it and I had to pay to ship it to them. Was my fault, but like you said, " thats what the protection is supposed to be there for."
Hi. Thanks for the tips on the Taramps. What about, can you link me to the dual 2/0 inputs you have on there?! Those are dual 2/0 inputs on there aren’t they? I don’t want to get incorrect inputs. Thanks.
Most amps won't protect from that , many DD amps will blow all the outputs if shorted .. protection circuits arnt designed for a hard short , never seen one fast enough
Thanks for this, you are the first person show the internals of this amplifier.
I'd never run a Brazilian full-bridge amp due to all of the issues that seem to come up from them clocking all of the parts into overdrive, they seem like a gamble on whether it's going to last or not and they also seem like a fire hazard honestly.. I only run half-bridge Korean amps and would rather sacrifice the $ per watt for something I know I won't have to replace or worry about anytime soon
Does anyone know, why amps get blown?
So theres no reason to ad fuses to battery to amp?
Whats the difference can someone help me please.
according to most people I've been abusing my md8k but been running over a year ran it on stock alts ran gain too high and mounted so that it bounces and it's still kicking now before you try the keyboard warrior thing I have fixed all those issues and still have no issues
Idk why you quit using the rp-2k so quickly but... I bought one at the same time you told me to buy the elites around mid February. First one came, I was breaking my subs in so I ran at 4 ohm. It lasted 7 days n went into permanent protect. 2nd one came and I hooked it up to 1 ohm instantly. It lasted 9 days and went into protect again! 3rd one came, and was dropped and damaged internally during shipping. So I'm on 4th one now. Never once went into protect. And been running it 45 days or so. And I'm okay w it. But I feel like I'm just waiting for it to happen. Big d wiz told me not to buy it, cuz it's unreliable. I clearly didn't listen lol. So that's my experience with Skar RP-2000.1D
Gotta say the customer service from Skar is on point tho.
I liked my RP-2000 just needed to upgrade to something bigger. That’s crazy you’ve had that much bad luck with yours
@@ParkerTheBasshead apparently, it's a known problem. I know ur kinda in the public eye of car audio nowadays, and you won't say too much negative about a company because of that. But I was sold on skar. I liked the name, the logo, the rms ratings, the cool looking sleek equipment. But in all reality, the company is a shit can. Sdr's suck. Evl's blow at rated power. Rp-2000 has permanent protect problems. Etc. So I'm gonna get away from Skar at this point. I actually looked into that solid ass audiopipe 3k cuz they're amazing, but the price sky rocketed and that particular one isn't the easiest to buy. You can find the 1.8k's pretty easy. And the 2k. But that 3k is a unicorn lol. I'm kinda angry at American bass cuz I bought a shirt and got the runaround for 3 months until they finally gave me a refund. If I can't get a shirt, what makes me think they would send a $400 amp if I bought one? They're local to me and I was gonna go there myself, but this corona shit has everything on lock lol. I got my elites from audio savings on eBay. But honestly thru all the bs, the car audio shit is just getting exhausting. And companies suck anymore. Making me wanna give it up honestly. I wish the understood its not cool to fuck customers over. Sorry man, rant over lol. Got carried away.
Mounting the amp to your box...... I predict amp 4 in your future.
Nice amps, too bad about the internal protection though
With that said, you might want to consider adding dust filters on the intakes of those fans - I was watching another video where the reviewer was complaining about dust and debris buildup in his Taramp amp, which eventually lead to failure.
How is high pass 10-90hz? Is that subsonic filter? Can you explain please?
Yes subsonic
Its pretty public knowladge that the MD12k DOSE have problems either get a MD8k or go Bass series.
Linha MD da taramps não serve para sub wolfer, linha bass sim, taramps 12 k bass aí sim a top !🇧🇷👍
Taramps 12k actually does 11,177 on 1ohm from dyno which still is a lot closer then most other brands get to what they try and say it can do
I believe I know which video you're referring to and if you look closely it did that at 12.55 volts. Which is great because it's rated at 12k at 14.4 volts so if they did the dyno again and checked it at that voltage it may do at least 13k
My 8k worked great no problems went thru 4 rides till the next guy wired it to .5
Ultra careful, No. Just follow standard procedure. Car off and main fuse removed or breaker disconnected before working on you system. I seen few amp blow like that. Earthquake and MTX.
i did the same thing with my ds800x4 but had a local shop repair it
RIP. Well im hoping they sent you a replacement for free. From the look if it you only blew a few FETS in the output section of the amp. Honestly assuming the drive circuit is in tact you could probably fix the amp for less than 50 bucks.
I wouldn’t tell you to mount that amp on the box. You might be having trouble with the amp because of vibration. I had a similar problem with a dsp3000. I went through 3 of them under warranty. I moved it off the box and never had a problem since. It’s been 1 year and a few months now.
These brazilian amps may have big power, they tends to have a lot of issues. My Taramps and Sound digital were problematic.
Korean amps (American Bass) amp seen to have the better quality build but less power. Chinese amps like my Audiopipes have been solid for over a year.
Wats up Parker? Can you confirm if these MD models will pick up frequencies below 30hz? Thinking about getting the MD5000.1 for my setup. I'm replacing my ORION XTR4000.1
Yeah plays stuff in the 20s no problem!
I will pay the shipping if you send me that amp that's burned. I have fixed a few 1k amps and would love the opportunity to repair and upgraded one like this. Either way nice setup clean powerful and not complicated. Good work.
funny thing is when I had had a pioneer amp I upgraded to a fosgate amp and failed to realize that the power terminals were backwards so I connected it the same I turned it on but nothing happened so I went to check it and realized I had screwed up luckily I flipped them and got lucky cause the amp still works to this day it took a beating like a champ with massive voltage drop now it bangs harder after I had upgraded the alt. Maybe I got lucky the amp should have blew up but it didnt although im looking for something around the same power and is more efficient its a r1200 prime.
Someone told me a while ago that there are bootleg ones. You can tell by the color of the cover. I run taramp hd no issues. He showed me a bootleg one. the cover was white but the real ones are suppose to be silver
Great vid parker i run crescendo amps i love the quality and sound