Bolting INCREDIBLE multi-pitch!
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- Опубликовано: 30 ноя 2022
- This was totally and awesomely awesome to bolt. An incredible 10 days out there in the Grose Valley, discovering an insane new line.
Here's the route on The Crag www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/a...
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Love the video . I have been climbing for over 30 years and have been lucky enough to bolt over 300 routes in that time and just as many boulder problems . I have developed whole areas by myself . As I get older , I have enjoyed bolting more than climbing . I love the adventure of finding new areas and new lines - visualizing the line , cleaning it then sinking in some bolts . I think more about what I’m giving back to the climbing community and not what I’m doing for myself . I’ll bolt a 5.5 as well as a 5.13 . It’s not about me but the ones who will have fun climbing. It’s a lot of work , but so well worth . Especially when you hear someone talking about how much fun they had climbing it . I saw you brushing holes and cleaning the ledge - I use a small Dewalt blower for the same work . It’s compact and saves some work . Good luck on your future endeavors.
Awesome. That’s a lot of days and work and passion shared for everyone. Nice work! Definitely a really fulfilling process. Yeah the little blower is the next on my list to buy. A few friends have them and really rate them. Would’ve come in handy a few times on this route haha
Your videos are reminding me of why I loved climbing in the first place. It's great that you can capture that. It really helps when I'm feeling bummed about not pushing grades. You're the man, Tom! Keep it going! (please)
Ahh that’s awesome to hear Philip. Psyched to hear the energy is resonating with you 😀, that means a lot. Thank you. Totally psyched to keep on creating ✌️
This was so awesome Tom! Stoked to see you so stoked! And thanks for all the time and effort you put in to developing!
Ahhh thanks Tamati. It’s so much fun doing it all. Properly fulfilling times. Hope it’s something that lots of people can enjoy 😀✌️
This was a sick video. There’s so little content around developing first ascents besides the actual climbing portion of the FA on RUclips. And even then it’s mostly for bouldering, good shit Tom
Psyched you enjoyed it Henry. Super keen to show some more insights to this stuff. I’ve made a few other bolting vids prior to this if you’re keen on more. Ground up bolting was one and a bolting bloopers day
Love the wild adventure days. Nothing like discovering new lines. Keep up the great content!
Super fun being out there and seeing something new. Psyched you enjoyed the vid 😀. Thank you ✌️
Great video Tom. You really put a lot of yourself out there in your videos and you have captured the journey of creativity of new routing perfectly - from that initial passion, envisaging the line, bolting and then climbing. Plus getting totally absorbed in the process. Awesome and thanks for sharing.
Thanks Bill. I appreciate that. I really really love the whole process. It fills my soul. Can’t wait to find more 😀
Farm to table had me in stitches. Haha
😂😂 harvesting your own 😀
new to your channel and i love the videos, its like spending a day in your head/life and thats pretty awesome, cheers!
Ahh thank you. I appreciate it and psyched you’re here. Welcome along on the weird journey 😀
love it great work mate
Thank you 😀. Psyched to hear you liked it 🙏
Legend! This is amazing....thanks
Thank you 😀. Glad you enjoyed ✌️
Brilliant video as always big man
Cheers. Psyched you enjoyed 😀✌️
Respect to you.
Haha thanks. It’s all a lot of fun 😀
Some realy true and deep words!! Respect to you and your work. Hope you stay happy whit your mindset for eatch new day!!!!
Thank you ✌️. You too!
Wow, very cool!
Thank you :). Psyched you like it
Can't wait to do this one day
It’s a huge amount of fun. Make it happen 😀✌️
Thanks for your effort! One day this multi will be within my reach...
Thanks Den. It’s a totally worthwhile bit of climbing I think. Albeit I’m biased haha. But I do think it’s one of the best bits of rock in the blue mountains. Keep in touch with it 😀
Wow, just wow!
Haha thank you ✌️
Awesome stuff mate! I think you really capture the exploration & fun of route dev with this. Also cool to see the little Milwaukee drill in action on a wall! Never seen another bolter use that but I find it's really good, despite being brushed.
Thanks mate. Psyched to hear you felt it captures what you feel with it too. I love the little Milwaukee. Light and totally rips for what it needs to do
Good one dude!
It’s a fun one. You’ll have to go do it!
What an amazing place... Inspiring!
It’s such a pretty spot. I love it 😀
Best thing is to do what makes you happy. That's one of the reasons why I upload my videos too... I wish I get strong enough someday to be able to climb this one, and make a video about it as well 👌 thanks for uploading.. very inspiring
100% with you there Jorge. Sometimes we can get lost in the world of everything, but it always feels so fulfilling coming back to the roots of it all 😀
Awesome dude! Hope i will someday get the oppertunity of bolting something of my own!
It’s an incredibly fun and rewarding process. Totally go for it 😀
Great video. Your content is so good. Looks like a super route. As someone who likes to develop stuff in the UK (a lot shorter though) I can really relate to the passion and enthusiasm. Well done.
I bet all the filming must add quite a bit of extra effort.
Ahh thanks. Developing is such an awesome process hey. Really fulfilling. Haha adding in the filming does make things logistically more complicated haha
I was having a low brain-ergy day on the last route I bolted. All the small decisions needing to be made were extra stressful! Long story short, it ended up being amazing and I dubbed it "Decision Fatigue"
Haha nice one. Amazing when those things work out in your favour. Those little decisions are killer for me. You can spiral into craziness while going nowhere quickly then I can rush myself and make the wrong decision haha
Tom,
Thanks for sharing not only the climb you created, but also the whole process involved. Like you, I devote a lot of time ( and yes, MONEY ) to finding, imagining and then realizing new climbs and in new places....it really IS intensely satisfying. My work is mainly on some volcanic sea-cliffs which ....somehow? have gone un-developed, despite there being many dozens of superior quality pitches, and in exquisitely beautiful surrounds. I admit, as you approach and reach 60, it's harder and harder to find comrades and so I now get my "Fill" of climbing/adventure/ exploring nourishment by exploring, scoping and rigging by myself.
I have been climbing for 45 yrs and was tutored to be clean and leave no mark....even 40 odd years ago my mates and I were "accused" of being from the "clean-hand-gang"...just because we hadn't even discovered chalk at that stage. It was a very long time coming before I finally realized the sense of making new lines by utilizing bomber Stainless bolts....where blank sections and dead-tight cracks would only allow passage by being insanely bold or by using knife-blade pitons and dodgy, hammered-in wires....that's simply delusional and certainly not sustainable.
Now I create climbs that are reasonably protected and with excellent belay stations, but not dumbed-down. The access is still complex and serious in nature, making for what's still very much an adventure experience. I don't advertise my climbs, allowing for other intrepid climbers to one day...."Find them", and perhaps get a surprise when they follow the natural line and find successive bolts and belays.. I will read more of the numerous comments....I may even see a few names I recognize.
Keep up the good work, cheers Mick
Thanks for sharing your story, Mick. Sounds like a great way to be spending your days. Doing it for so long, I can't imagine the number of pitched you've developed and little corners of the world you've explored. That's awesome :)
this is so cool, really makes me appreciate the hard work people put in to develop something that will last decades and decades and benefit the whole community
psyched you enjoyed it Alex. It is a very fun thing to do and a TON of work. Always nice when you hear people have gone out and tried and enjoyed them.
well done mate! that's what life's about. finding and doing the things we love! that's how you stay sane man.
anyways GREAT video mate
tar
Cheers Edwin. Yeah, life feels a hell of a lot more awesome when you’re doing what makes you happen and you have some direction 😀
This was just wonderful to watch. I wish we had the same view/culture around bolting in VIC as you guys do in NSW.
Vic is certainly a different situation with development. We have it pretty good up here with the seemingly endless rock
@@TomOHalloranAus Things are looking up in the grampians now. Hopefully parks vic can find a happy medium.
We have a little trip to the blueys in Jan. Hoping to find some fun stuff to scale!
@@nickGTFX That's good news re Gramps. And also good news re climbing trip to the mtns!
Hey Tom, what setup do you have when Top Rope soloing in this video?
awesome! love from italy
Thanks mate. I have Italian heritage. Cool to hear it’s reaching you up there 😀✌️
@@TomOHalloranAus I genuinely wish you the best of luck with your channel because your content is amazing. I really hope more people get to see you work.
Un saluto da Olbia!
@@alexambro4998 Haha thanks Alex. I appreciate your kind words :)
Thanks for all the videos just found your channel, I am currently working on developing a place and I am super intimated as it’s a huge flake ridge with lots of loose stuff on top. Also next to the ocean. I bet you made a video already how you make your bolts and what glue you use. If not can you make a video 😅✌️
Ooo sounds adventurous! Cool! Haven’t made a vid about making bolts as such. I do have one called ‘Complete bolting kit,’ which goes into good detail with bolts and the rest of the gear. I use 316 stainless steel, bend it on a bending jig, scuff the legs and use ramset 502 epoxy glue
@@TomOHalloranAus thanks Tom let me know if you ever in Japan would be epic to take you around my area ✌️ ps no way close to you lvl of climbing 😅
Japan is very high on the list 👍
So siiick
Haha thanks. Glad you liked it 😀
Always wanted to see a multipitch development process! What’s your setup? How long is your static line?
2x 100m statics for this one. I made a few vids earlier in the year about how I bolt, goes over a lot of the main bits. It’ll do a better job of explaining than I can do in words ✌️
Great video as always mate. Love to see how the rain doesn't dampen your spirits haha. Do you prefer bolting multis or single pitch?
Thanks 😀. I prefer both haha. The single pitch stuff is way simpler, quicker and you can sometimes bolt and climb it all in the same day. That’s pretty rad. A multi is way more of a process. Far more work and gear and gruel. However, the end result is a far bigger and more satisfying piece of climbing, which is rad. I couldn’t pick one haha
Great video, think I would’ve quit Climbing already if it wasn’t for development. Try using a small Milwaukee leaf blower with an 8 amp hour battery. haha it has already saved me about 1000 hours of brushing.
How good is the discover of new climbing. Love it! Psyched to hear you’re still getting at it. Haha the leaf blower is next on my list of tools. I’ve heard nothing but good things!
"a logical development must always be from bottom to top!"
- Petr Spek Slanina
Indeed indeed
Hey Tom, I have a question regarding getting a video recording setup for climbing. Unfortunately for me, the nearest accessible outdoor crag is in another country so commuting is a pain and it is hard to organize trips out due to the time commitment. I was planning on recording my climbs so that I do not forget the beta on projects and was wondering whether you have any budget suggestions just for this?
Phone and a tripod is great. A lightweight bobble head tripod is good. The Joby gorilla pod is very good for an even smaller tripod. GoPros are awesome and can connect to your phone for remote control. Hope that helps.
Great idea to keep a good video library of beta. Writing down the nuances of the beta to go along side the video is good too. ‘Push hard with left foot, keep elbow tucked in, keep chest high etc.’
Sounds like you are ready for a trip to Yosemite mate 😉
Oh my gosh I'd love to go there!
@@TomOHalloranAus going in October. Maybe we can sort something out 😁
@@palminator73 haha nice! I think my finances will be caught up in other bits of life
What are you anchoring off of here? Not just the tree right? :O
The tree, then some temporary fixings (concrete screws) along the way. The. Once bolts start getting glued in, I’m re-anchoring on them
What's a good way to start learning to multi-pitch Tom?
Hmm good question. The big thing is the anchor systems and rope management. A few bits off the top of my head. Find someone who knows what they are doing. Do some small ones first. There's a great spot in the Blue Mountains which has a few 2 pitch routes. Take it steady. Practice anchor building and setup up.
The crux of multi-pitching is having good rope systems and communication between you and your climbing partner. Get that sorted and you're away :). It's worth it. They are such fun days out
How many holes can you with that drill per battery? I’d assume your using 12mm or 1/2inch?
I get quite a lot. More than 50 I’d guess. I’ve only run out of battery once, and that was on a BIG day. 12mm hole about 120mm deep for glue ins, 10mm hole about 70mm deep for my temp concrete screws. Milwaukee 5ah battery. The rock is on the softer side of things, so that will make a difference for battery life
Hey Tom, nice video, I’ve always wondering about what bolting kinda looks like. I’m wondering if you’d be okay with me clipping a five second clip of you using the drill for a video I’m doing about crag development on my channel and give you credit in the description. Let me know if this is okay and thanks again for the video :)
Hey, yeah go for it. Clip some footage. Thanks for asking :). I made a few other vids on bolting earlier in the year which might be helpful. I like your vids too. And awesome work on the consistency. So much work that goes into it all! Looking forward to seeing the video when it's done :)
@@TomOHalloranAus Thanks so much 🙏 I’ll let you know when it goes out :)
It's totally so awesome to experience opportunities & explore the possibilities 😃 But in Victoria we have the draconian rules of culture 🤔 Parks Victoria & the other players who have no knowledge are isolating access ! At least with bouldering Tom It's easy to climb unnoticed 🤫
Yeah it’s certainly a tricky situation down there. I’m hopeful there will be a positive resolution to it all
Just found your channel through your wombat roof project, any updates on that line?
Haha that one has been wet basically since I made that video. I’m hoping for a dry summer to get back on it and start piecing the parts together. It’s high on the list for 2023!
@@TomOHalloranAus Hope to see a video on it, really exciting line, best of luck!
Super keen to get back on! Thanks. Keen to share 😀
Здравствуй. Расскажи пожалуйста, нормально ли держат двойные клеевые анкера в скале на срывы. Я собираюсь пробивать трассы и ищу лучшие варианты клеевых анкеров и обратил внимание на то как ты устанавливаешь анкера
Yes the 2 part masonry anchor glue is very very strong. Ramset 502 is what I use mostly. Before to buy the right stuff (as strong as possible) as there are some glue no design to withstand the forces of a climbing fall
Спасибо большое за информацию и удачи в проектах.
What's your TR solo setup? Looks like a jumar on top, but I can't see if you have a second device or not.
TR solo setup is dodgy and needs fixing. I was only on a mini traxion and it felt totally not good being only on a toothed device. With no back up! I’d love to find a bit of kit that allows lowering and you can climb on. Plus a trailing back up
Tom i use a Soloist from rock exotica for leading & top rope 👌 It's a great device & simple to use 👍
@@TomOHalloranAus a lot of people do the double micro trax in yosemite, could be worth looking into
@@darrenmarney8577 cool, thanks Darren. I'll check them out
@@imxd9698 yeah I like those little petzl devices. I'll play around with them. cheers
❤️❤️👍🏾👍🏾
🙏🙏✌️✌️😀
Why U bolts over rings?
Cheaper and easier for me to make myself
Wait so entree and main course aren't the same thing???
It’s just a smaller version of the big one 😀. Although, considering cereal for dinner can be fun, I don’t know where all this leads too haha
What type of rock is this?
Some of the best blue mountains sandstone 😀🥳
And compared to Arapiles 😝🤫
is this in the National Park ? Did you need to get permission to bolt this climb - What are the rules on that there?
Climbing is pretty well accepted here, so long as things don't get out of hand. Everyone acts responsibly and self regulates and the status quo remains.
isn''t it wrong bolting from top to bottom
ground up bolting is an ethic used in only a very few areas. this isn't one of them :)
Thank you for doing these videos for us :)! Do not waste your time > P r o m o S M!!
Glad you enjoy them 😀✌️