Handheld Macro Photography at 7x magnification - Possible or not?
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
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And before I get all the i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/001/191/039/e9f.jpg comments, YES I KNOW that technically this still is 3.25x magnification - magnification does not change with sensor size - but in full frame equivalent it IS 6.5x which can be rounded to 7x to simplify. Also don't forget to visit my... 🐞 favorite gear: micaelwidell.com/#gear 🐛 lens guide: lensguide.micaelwidell.com 🪳 monthly newsletter: micaelwidell.com 🐜 instagram: instagram.com/mwroll
Why use 7x in the caption for this video?? Less knowledgeable people are easily misguided so from my point of view it's a mistake unless you specify and clarify it in detail.
@@dennismwallentin296 Here we go... 😂
@@MicaelWidell Don't blame me 😁 The online M43 community together with the brands are the only ones who must bring it up in the first place. Edit note: Your comment was not appreciated as I find it arrogant.
No, in full frame equivalent terms it is still 3.25x magnification. Period. Also lens manufacturer SIGMA sees it in that way, just search for "Fototipp Folge 12: Abbildungsmaßstab".
Why do you delete and censor my comments?
Here i can't handle 1x handheld...
I am using Patona Platinum Battery BLX-1 USB-C and I am very happy of the included USB-C port at battery. Seems to be the same OEM manufacturer.
what battery on video is with c conector for recharging? thanks.
Jupio. Pause the video to read the exact model name
I don't understand how you can be so stable to take the focus stack. Very impressive.
I know what you mean about having a heart attack. I have Scarlet Lily beetles in my garden, which look pretty from a distance but my God their faces up close are an utter horror show. The pictures I took from the front are the stuff of nightmares.
I agree with the focus stacking. If I do it, I only stack a few images to keep some of it out of focus. It looks like a medical photo otherwise.
Amazing magnification, hand-held.
I'm impressed your flash is recharging so fast to take so many shots so quickly.
PS about batteries: Such batteries that are USB-C chargeable are now available from several brands, for just about all camera brands and types!
So it's not limited to Jupio, in case you can't find that brand.
Hey Micael, I guess you might try to simulate a super 8 film look? if that is the case, you might want to try lowering the saturation a bit, especially in highlight part, film have a different saturation curve appearance than digital grading.
Not sure which software you are using, but it seems FCPX have a worse film grain look than Davinci Resolve, just let you know.
Cheers~
I’m not trying to emulate any specific look. Just trying to find a look that I personally like
Wow...the 7x time isn't easy...tried it and had some successes. (OM1 + 90mm)
The frame is only about 7mm in size, if I'm right
1. The first challenge is to actually find an insect that is only 4-5 mm in size.
2. The second challenge is to frame it properly. Not an easy task: narrow field of view and depth of field.
3. Third difficulty: keeping everything stable while the stacking does its job, luckily the 10 fps with flash helps a lot (20 fps without flash)
I tried it on a wall and it worked, but the real challenge will be bugs on leaves...
Sorry but if Micro 4/3 gets to call it 7x then full frame users who crop their images and run them through software like Topaz Gigapixel at a 6x enlargement get to join in on the "new math". Oh, wait, I guess the Micro 4/3 people could 6x their 7x and round off to 40x. The question that comes up here is when we consider all factors including depth of field whether we need to shoot so close or if the results are better shooting from a comfortable distance and cropping. You could add your Raynox to a longer lens which would get more magnification with or without crop factors. I have used with some pleasing results my NiSi 49mm close up lens on my 100-400 zoom which gives 3x at a ridiculously long working distance. There are two questions beyond what we "can" do. You are covering "how" we can but lets not forget "should" we??? Why do we do it? It is fun. I enjoyed taking a few stacks with my AstrHori 25mm 2-5x set to 5x with my supply (93mm) of extension tubes on my crop sensor Canon R7 but composing a scene when the depth of field is so thin that you can not see the subject becomes an issue unless the subject is a test chart or paper money (or a watch stem?). There is a limit to reasonable uses but not to imagination.
Is it really relevant to convert magnification from mft to full frame? I don't think so because the magnification depends on the sizes of the object and his image, not the size of the sensor. Thanks anyway for this great video.👍
I struggle at 2x. Its really fun but bird photography is much easier once you find a subject hehe
Just wanted to say I appreciate your videos and you've inspired me to go more into macro. In fact, after a lot of thought I am replacing my Nikon d7500 DSLR for an OM system like yours, as I think I'll appreciate the mobility while still being able to get really good shots.
I have similar OM-1 batteries from Ulanzi.
Why does your B-roll have such bad chromatic aberration?
Thanks for another video Micael
Thanks for the video and for the work Michael. I started more extreme magnification 2 days ago after I got my 2nd set of Fotga electronic extension tubes, I stacked the Olympus MC14 1.4x TC with 2 11mm Fotga extension tubes in front of the Olympus 60mm f 2.8 Macro, I still get autofocus and focus stacking/bracketing. I do feel I need to turn the aperture down to f 8 (from f 11 my usual value) because the diffraction takes a huge chunk of clarity and sharpness. I haven't measured how much magnification I am getting but it's pretty amazing and the images I got just blows me away, I can hand-held shoot live subjects with reasonable success.
Thanks for mentioning the battery, I actually need spare batteries for my OM-1 because I keep running it down shooting so much macro. By the way, another good and easy way to top off your battery on the field is with Anker Nano Power Bank, it costs only 30 £ on Amazon, has Type C plug that folds into the body of the power bank, it's so very small and light that it can hang off the side of the camera and charge it while you use it, it has fast charging so you will charge faster then the camera can drain it, it will do around 60-70% charge of the battery in the camera, and did I mention it's just 30 £? It's worth having one in all the camera bags and backpacks for emergency power-up.
YES. I do it, in a FF a9, so of course it is possible. Duh.
Get real...
😘
Love your lady bug focus stacked image at the beginning...detail is amazing 😊
Hi Micael Windell I had an question for you, I do insect photography and I think your videos are great, the thing is I have a Panasonic lumix dmc fz-300 which is a bridge camera with the raynox 250 and the Meike mk320 flash and it works great but the insects that I photograph are rather big and when I take the photos it’s not much magnified so I crop it in at home on my computer but if I do that the image gets abit blurred and I think it’s cause the megapixels, do you have an recommendation for more megapixel or something? Please could you answer me I would be very thankful😊.
Cheers!
Also really nice videos and congrats on 100k subs
Try to see if you like On1 Resize IA, as standalone or included in On1 Photo RAW. Of course it is not going to work miracles, but in this sense (I mean recovering non-existent megapixels) I think it goes a small step further. Best.
@@fernando0854 thanks, the actual thing I meant is how I can take better photos in the future with megapixels too.
You ideally want many megapixels and high magnification, and with that bridge camera you don't have a true macro lens, so even if you attach a Raynox you will not get super high magnification. You should probably invest in an interchangeable lens camera with a macro lens.
@@MicaelWidell Thank! Also do you have an recommendation when taking photos of shiny beetles because with a flash it’s color doesn’t look like the nice beautiful bright natural color and i tried a diffuser but still didn’t work so well, should I get the AK diffuser maybe?
Would you please check and publish your opinion - is it worth to invest in MC-20 for using it with OM 90mm or rather decide to stay with Raynox 250?
I’m working on a video on that exact topic. Should be done today or tomorrow.
My experience with the Raynox 250 on the same camera/lens is the same. Depth of field too narrow, stacking hand-held a challenge. I"ll have to try it with a tripod or copy stand when I photograph museum snail shells.
How long have you had your third party battery? I've not had good luck in the long term with any third party battery for any camera system I've used. They start swelling up after 9 months. Will have to try Juipio.
I’ve used Jupio batteries in the past and they have held up well for years.
Also in FF terms the magnification is 3.25x as you would see around the double height and widht in reality and in the virtual picture. Compare it with a map: the scale factor (=(reverse) magnification factor) is the same whether you look at a small or larger portion of the map. Everyone gets this calculation wrong.
Please refer to the pinned comment
Thanks for another interesting video.
Have you thought of contacting NiSi for a review copy of their 49mm close up filter.
It looks a lot bigger than most but is a size that may work with OM/Olympus gear. Would be great to hear your thoughts on it since you could compare it against the other close up filters you have tried.
Here you go ruclips.net/video/k9-lS8tHIaQ/видео.html
This setup would work very well for photographing springtails, snowflakes, or really small fungi.
Done 7x on a full frame sensor scale using I think 49mm extension tubes on my documentary film about biting midges months ago, but not handheld of course. I think it's best to just buy the new microscope set from Laowa overall going beyond 5x. Diffraction was the biggest problem going as far as f8-16 at 4K@120fps with 1/250s shutter. Used a small 60W studio light on camera but I think 100W would be better.
Great video thanks I see you are using the 90mm do you like it more than your 60mm ??
At the moment the 90mm is my favorite
I was experimenting already with that setup and the teleconverter from omsystems, it’s gets wild, but you can work only from starting f10, you need good flash power, there’s little diffraction, but workable
Thanks for the video! I'm just starting and finally bought a tamron 90mm macro lens. I shoot a pentax ks2 and I'm having a problem figuring my total magnification now
Interesting video.
Next video with MC-20 would be even more interesting.
For me, as a non-macro photographer, even at 2x magnification is hard to find the subject. :) I can imagine how is 7x
Hello Micael, Have you ever considered getting a Laowa Aurogon or renting one and testing it?
I made a video about it when it was launched
I'm still using the set up you had a while back: Fuji X-T3, Laowa 65mm, home made diffusor.
I've tried a bunch of other higher magnification setups but this is still my favorite.
Congrats on 100k
Thanks 😊
Yes, I can imagine that at that magnification it is even more difficult to get good stacks. I was using my 90mm at maximum magnification and even then it was difficult to find an insect.
Even harder because it looks like you need even more images to complete the stack.
But will give it a try....
And thanks that your approach to macro made me buy the OM1 + lenses... definitely the best choice for focus stacking + flash.
What a difference against my Sony A7r5 with 4-5 fps >< iOlympus 10 fps with flash, 20 fps without flash (but never done it).
Thanks again for this video.
What is cool about the raynox approach, is that you can carry your lens as normal and use 1x Al day. If you run into a subject that is extremely small and you want to capture it then You can quickly attach the raynox. Much easier than a lens swap.
I got myself some jewellery maker lens set that you put into glasses. Trying to look at bugs through them is scary 😂 ❤
Can u do review about Oshiro 60mm f2.8 1:2 ?
Thanks :)
I'm afraid I will probably never review it, can't get my hands on it here in Sweden
Atleast can u tell me, Is Oshiro like low budget laowa 60mm ?
Do you maybe have some information about that ?
Well Micael. You've just talked me into buying the Raynox. I think this may be the solution for my being a non-committal macro photographer. I'll keep it in my bag just in case instead of extension tubes. As to the battery, guess what, I bought one too. Interestingly, there was no Jupio variety with a charging port for my Sony a6700 but a Neewer branded one instead. It looks identically like your Jupio for the OM except for the brand name. I must stop watching your videos in the interest of my bank account balance 😂
I bet the same factory makes all these batteries and then different companies just put their brand on it.
@@MicaelWidell
Hej Micael. A few ours ago Australia Post delivered to my door the Raynox DCR-250 you "convinced" me to buy. To test it, I put it on some of the lenses that I most often use on my a6700 to test magnification. Here are the results that, if you wish and find them useful, you can share on your channel. I am not on any social media myself and I've done it only out of my own curiosity.
I find that in general, the lens to put the DCR-250 on must have the focal length no less than 70mm. Any shorter, and the viewing angle is too wide resulting with a rather bad mechanical vignette. This narrowed the useful results to two Sony zoom lenses I own. I have calculated magnification as a ratio of the sensor width (25mm) to the visible length in the frame using a ruler.
- SEL18135 @70mm, 0.67x; @135mm, 1.14x
- SEL70350 @70mm, 0.7x; @350mm, 2.78x
The working distance from the front of the lens was approximately 10cm in all these tests. I used manual focusing set to minimum. I hope you find it vaguely interesting. Cheers, Tadeusz
Your photos are amazing Micael, I hope you dont mind me asking for your advise. I purchased a Laowa 90 mm macro and no matter what settings i set my camera to I am not able to see my subject through the viewfinder or the screen. Even at 2.8 1/250th ISO 1000 its still hard to see what im trying to shoot. Thank you in advance.
If you are using a sony camera, find the menu item called "Setting effect" and set it to "off". If you use another brand you have to find the corresponding setting. Often it is under viewfinder settings. It will solve this problem :)
@@MicaelWidell So if I understand correctly im brighting up the display and EFV? I use a canon R8. Thank you
6.5 mag is astronomical 😅
Great video. Cool hat!!!
Great photos, great video, very interesting!
I'm using the OM-1 II + 90mm without flash - as a beginner 😥😥 any recommendations for a handheld without flash to get short time and low iso? I usually get 600+ iso in natural light. I have a small led light, but I can't keep it on the leash with the dog anymore 😅
You need a flash
How do the results differ between the Raynox and extension tubes?
Probably hard to see a difference
Hey folks any general rule to help me with Laowa Ultra Macro? I do have an A7II but with my Sony 90mm IBIS does not function. Because laowa does not have IS I really need IBIS in the body - using available light. So any pointer for the Laowa and IBIS in Sony mirrorless? I'm thinking of also going for a 7R III or IV.
I would suggest setting a very long focal length for the IBIS, maybe 150mm - that tends to work well for me with Laowa macro lenses.
@@MicaelWidell So it always functions? My worry is it would be just the same as my Sony - IBIS isn't available with this lens.
IBIS means In BODY Image Stabilization, ie. it is the sensor moving in the camera body. It will work also with manual or vintage lenses if you have it enabled.
@@MicaelWidell The thing is I can't enable it with the genuine Sony macro. The menu tells me this. So I'm wondering if it doesn't work with Sony lens what are the chances it will work with a Laowa? I really need the stabilisation (the Sony lens has IS) because I am not intending to use flash and I really like the way the IS makes good stills from even the most extended tripod setups. So at x2 it will really be needed.
Lovely
Hi, Michael. Thanks for the video! I'm wondering, will raynox dcr250 work with Sony 90mm on a7m4?
Pretty happy with that lens, but magnification is definitely not enough.
I can’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work
@@MicaelWidell Thanks! Just didn't find any information if it works as good on full frame lenses as it works on ones designed for crop sensors.
@@fedorlischenko4196 I have used it on many full frame lenses, has worked great with them all!
Hi Micael, can you put a link for the Jupio batteries? Many thanks
Sorry I don't have any good links since they will be different in different countries
Dude, are you deleting my comments, or is youtube broken?
Sometimes RUclips will stop comments they regard as spam. This one seems to have gotten through though :) I rarely delete comments
@@MicaelWidell Seems like my comments keep disappearing. I ordered a s.m.a.l.l.r.i.g. the other day, not beeing aware of j.u.p.i.o. price is about the same and also usb chargable. they have comparison image wich looks just like the j.u.p.i.o. color scheme. therefor i just remembered it. they claim to charge faster etc. in case you want to have a look.
@@MicaelWidell m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61-FgNNkdlL._AC_SX679_.jpg i hope it stays
Maybe an idea for a comparison. My order is placed. But would be interesting for the future. And i doupt this one is gonna be my last battery.
@@DBqFetti I don't think battery choice is important enough to warrant a comparison or a separate video, just wanted to point out that there are batteries with a usb-c charging port, which I think is pretty neat.
Hello, I won't ask what Macro lens I should buy, but I have a more technical question.
Is it possible to photograph an ant in its entirety without blurring with a lens with 1x or 2x magnification with f/16 aperture?
Do such lenses even exist?
Do you have to take a stack of photos every time?
Let's say that for a full frame the Ant occupies 20% of the photo area and is full sharp of body. Is it possible?
Thanks!
It is impossible to get the whole and sharp with a single shot. Due to laws of physics. You have to stack. If you stop down the aperture too much you get diffraction, which will make the image unsharp.
@@MicaelWidell thank you