I gave up, trying to splice velocity last night, and just stumbled upon your video! I think I’m gonna give it another shot. I just couldn’t get the core past the crossover, but I didn’t taper it like you did. Thanks so much for the video!!
Is it getting stuck when you try to pull the core through the cover? If that is the problem you will find it is much easier to pull it through after you reduce the volume on the core.
Thank you for this tutorial, I didn’t follow it exactly because I have a different rope but a lot of this helped me figure out what I needed to get mine to work. Really good explications, thanks!
Hi Eric, I would like to see you do a video on splicing a 16 strand, hint hint a 1/2” safety blue , it will give you a excuse to the wife to buy another rope! Lol🇨🇦🇺🇸
If you go to the Samson rope site they have a table of fid lengths. Try this link: samsonrope.com/docs/default-source/splice-instructions/tools_required_for_splicing_web.pdf?sfvrsn=e2e345e0_2
I think it is a OSHA no no to mark with a sharpie. I got a bunch of brand new tow straps free because a inventory company labeled them with a sharpie, OSHA said toss them.
I think that is plain silly. Nylon and Polyester are pretty much impervious to all chemicals except for acids, and as far as I know there is no research that shows much effect of sharpie ink on those fabrics. But I generally do avoid using a sharpie on the outside of the rope where it shows just because I don't like the looks of it. I usually use thread to make my layout marks on the outside of the splice and only use sharpie to mark the strands that get cut off and buried inside the rope.
Also, there is a good video on youtube where they looked at the effect of really soaking ropes in sharpie ink and found not effect on strength. So, when you are splicing I would not worry about using very small amounts of sharpie ink to make your layout.
I have not, mainly because there is a good one by "Nice Guy Dave" already on RUclips. But I do the 16-strand bury a bit differently than he does, so I will think about showing an alternative method.
I have not spliced Biloba but it is a double-braid rope so it should be spliceable with a double-braid splice. You should check to see if Beal has posted splicing instructions for this rope. It has a polyamide core so they may want you to do a slightly longer bury on the core. If you go to the Splicing forum on the Treebuzz website and ask if anybody has spliced this rope you might also get some advice. The guys on that website are very helpful.
Samson recommends a short fid between marks B and C, but if you want to use a long fid that won't hurt anything. The only downside of using the long fid is that it may make the final bury more difficult and it will make the rope a bit stiffer in the area of the splice.
@@MrViking10000 Yes, I decided to take it down because the newer method recommended by Teufelberger makes the final bury much easier to do and it makes the lock-stitching much easier as well because there is not as much material crammed into the throat of the splice. The Teufelberger video by Joe Stockton is very good, so I decided to not confuse people with the old method. I got some flack from a few splicers who thought I should not have taken it down, but I think it was for the best.
@@ericforsman7787 I think your methods a lot safer and honestly I spliced tachyon so much I had no trouble after a while. I recommend keeping it up in case I want to go back and double check
@@ericforsman7787 the way you explained it was very helpful. I had no trouble I do a lot of tachyon splices for my own. I do recommend keeping it up for your loyal subscribers.
For a 7/16" fid the lengths are as listed below. Also, there are tables on the internet that provide lengths for other fid sizes. Full fid = 9.5" (240mm) Long fid = 5-7/8" (149mm) Short fid = 3-5/8" (91mm
I would avoid it. I think the concern is that rope strength could be compromised if the core and cover can't move freely relative to each other. Or the core could bunch up inside one of the splices and work loose.
Yes, all layout measurements are the same. But I suggest you get on the Samson website and check their directions regarding the taper layout for the cover strands. Sometimes they vary a bit.
@@ericforsman7787 I am struggling to get the core back through the cover for some reason. I have thinned the volume and still get hung up at the crossover. It seems to be bunching up behind where I make the cuts to reduce the core. I cannot get it to pass through enough to tighten the crossover as you did.
@@mohprechus It sometimes helps if you pull more core out of the cover, which bunches up the cover and creates more space for the tail of the core to pass through. It also may help if you attach the fid to a solid object and then milk the cover over the tail as it passes through the cover.
I have about two inches of core showing on the final milk at the splice, and I cant for the life of me get it to milk the rest of the way, and its rock hard at the bury, and bending/twisting to loosen the fibers up is near impossible, any ideas?
Assuming that you did all the tapers correctly, all I can guess is that you did not get the crossover tight, or you let the rope get bunched up when doing the bury. It is really important to keep both sides of the rope under tension as you start the bury, and keep them under tension until the bury is complete. If you fail to do this the tapered part will bunch up just outside the throat and will not go inside. If this happens the best thing to do is to pull the tapered part of the rope back out of the throat and do the bury all over again.
You don't need much. Ideally you should have a wire fid, scissors, marlin spike, and 7/16" tubular fid. Plus a marking pencil and some tape. If you don't have a tubular fid you can just use the measurements off of a fid table, which you can find online. For the whiplock you will also need a darning needle and some whipping twine.
The technique used for Velocity works for many 7/16" double-braid ropes but the layout varies depending on rope diameter. And the taper layout on the cover varies among ropes. For example, if you are splicing Tachyon rope, the cover taper formula is 3-4 instead of 5-5. So, before you splice any rope, do your research and read the instructions on the manufacturers website.
For a 16-strand rope you do a completely different kind of splice. I suggest you watch the online video produced by Iron Street Splicing to see how it is done. The link to that video is ruclips.net/video/HLTPZe2i8BA/видео.html. You can also read the instructions in the Samson manual.
Really well done splicing video good sir! Thank you. I'll be less afraid to take on splicing my Vortex now, which is begging for a nice tight eye at one end.
I gave up, trying to splice velocity last night, and just stumbled upon your video! I think I’m gonna give it another shot. I just couldn’t get the core past the crossover, but I didn’t taper it like you did. Thanks so much for the video!!
Is it getting stuck when you try to pull the core through the cover? If that is the problem you will find it is much easier to pull it through after you reduce the volume on the core.
@@ericforsman7787 reducing the core, along with using a wire fid, did the trick! Thanks again.
Ty, thank the Good Lord I had success on the first attempt using 1/2” Samson Stable Braid! 🇨🇦🇺🇸
Congratulations Phil! Splicing is a good thing to take your mind off the crazy times we are living in.
Thank you for this tutorial, I didn’t follow it exactly because I have a different rope but a lot of this helped me figure out what I needed to get mine to work. Really good explications, thanks!
Thank you for this video! I am finally getting ready to do it, wish me luck :-)
Excellent tutorial 👍👍
Great video! Thanks .😊
Hi Eric, I would like to see you do a video on splicing a 16 strand, hint hint a 1/2” safety blue , it will give you a excuse to the wife to buy another rope! Lol🇨🇦🇺🇸
Gotta try this splice
I understand
How long is the fid . I was going to make my own but not sure for length of fid large And small Mark??
If you go to the Samson rope site they have a table of fid lengths. Try this link: samsonrope.com/docs/default-source/splice-instructions/tools_required_for_splicing_web.pdf?sfvrsn=e2e345e0_2
I think it is a OSHA no no to mark with a sharpie. I got a bunch of brand new tow straps free because a inventory company labeled them with a sharpie, OSHA said toss them.
I think that is plain silly. Nylon and Polyester are pretty much impervious to all chemicals except for acids, and as far as I know there is no research that shows much effect of sharpie ink on those fabrics. But I generally do avoid using a sharpie on the outside of the rope where it shows just because I don't like the looks of it. I usually use thread to make my layout marks on the outside of the splice and only use sharpie to mark the strands that get cut off and buried inside the rope.
Also, there is a good video on youtube where they looked at the effect of really soaking ropes in sharpie ink and found not effect on strength. So, when you are splicing I would not worry about using very small amounts of sharpie ink to make your layout.
Always educational. Thanks! Have you ever done a video splicing 16 braid arbormaster?
I have not, mainly because there is a good one by "Nice Guy Dave" already on RUclips. But I do the 16-strand bury a bit differently than he does, so I will think about showing an alternative method.
@@ericforsman7787 I look forward to seeing it if you decide to make one. Thanks.
Can this process be used for Samson Hyperclimb?
How many stiches?
All from one side?
Hi Eric, can I use this method for splicing a Beal Biloba? Thanks!
I have not spliced Biloba but it is a double-braid rope so it should be spliceable with a double-braid splice. You should check to see if Beal has posted splicing instructions for this rope. It has a polyamide core so they may want you to do a slightly longer bury on the core. If you go to the Splicing forum on the Treebuzz website and ask if anybody has spliced this rope you might also get some advice. The guys on that website are very helpful.
@@ericforsman7787 thanks a lot for your reply! I've checked te Beal page but nothing! I'll see on Treebuzz. Thanks again
Hey Eric what would happen if from mark b to c I used the long part of the fid?
Samson recommends a short fid between marks B and C, but if you want to use a long fid that won't hurt anything. The only downside of using the long fid is that it may make the final bury more difficult and it will make the rope a bit stiffer in the area of the splice.
@@ericforsman7787 thank you. I noticed you took down your tachyon splice video.
@@MrViking10000 Yes, I decided to take it down because the newer method recommended by Teufelberger makes the final bury much easier to do and it makes the lock-stitching much easier as well because there is not as much material crammed into the throat of the splice. The Teufelberger video by Joe Stockton is very good, so I decided to not confuse people with the old method. I got some flack from a few splicers who thought I should not have taken it down, but I think it was for the best.
@@ericforsman7787 I think your methods a lot safer and honestly I spliced tachyon so much I had no trouble after a while. I recommend keeping it up in case I want to go back and double check
@@ericforsman7787 the way you explained it was very helpful. I had no trouble I do a lot of tachyon splices for my own. I do recommend keeping it up for your loyal subscribers.
What would be the measurements with out using the fid? Thanks
For a 7/16" fid the lengths are as listed below. Also, there are tables on the internet that provide lengths for other fid sizes.
Full fid = 9.5" (240mm)
Long fid = 5-7/8" (149mm)
Short fid = 3-5/8" (91mm
Is it okay to splice both ends? I have read some ropes don't like that.
I would avoid it. I think the concern is that rope strength could be compromised if the core and cover can't move freely relative to each other. Or the core could bunch up inside one of the splices and work loose.
Eric, if I wanted to put this splice in Samson Predator Rope which is also 7/16, are all the measurements going to be the same?
Yes, all layout measurements are the same. But I suggest you get on the Samson website and check their directions regarding the taper layout for the cover strands. Sometimes they vary a bit.
@@ericforsman7787 I am struggling to get the core back through the cover for some reason. I have thinned the volume and still get hung up at the crossover. It seems to be bunching up behind where I make the cuts to reduce the core. I cannot get it to pass through enough to tighten the crossover as you did.
@@mohprechus It sometimes helps if you pull more core out of the cover, which bunches up the cover and creates more space for the tail of the core to pass through. It also may help if you attach the fid to a solid object and then milk the cover over the tail as it passes through the cover.
I have about two inches of core showing on the final milk at the splice, and I cant for the life of me get it to milk the rest of the way, and its rock hard at the bury, and bending/twisting to loosen the fibers up is near impossible, any ideas?
Assuming that you did all the tapers correctly, all I can guess is that you did not get the crossover tight, or you let the rope get bunched up when doing the bury. It is really important to keep both sides of the rope under tension as you start the bury, and keep them under tension until the bury is complete. If you fail to do this the tapered part will bunch up just outside the throat and will not go inside. If this happens the best thing to do is to pull the tapered part of the rope back out of the throat and do the bury all over again.
@@ericforsman7787 thanks
Can you put a minimal list of tools needed to complete this?
You don't need much. Ideally you should have a wire fid, scissors, marlin spike, and 7/16" tubular fid. Plus a marking pencil and some tape. If you don't have a tubular fid you can just use the measurements off of a fid table, which you can find online. For the whiplock you will also need a darning needle and some whipping twine.
These techniques work for every rope?
The technique used for Velocity works for many 7/16" double-braid ropes but the layout varies depending on rope diameter. And the taper layout on the cover varies among ropes. For example, if you are splicing Tachyon rope, the cover taper formula is 3-4 instead of 5-5. So, before you splice any rope, do your research and read the instructions on the manufacturers website.
Eric Forsman I have this rope name “Samson hawkeye” 1/2 diameter 16-strand line
You think I could do it with that technique
For a 16-strand rope you do a completely different kind of splice. I suggest you watch the online video produced by Iron Street Splicing to see how it is done. The link to that video is ruclips.net/video/HLTPZe2i8BA/видео.html. You can also read the instructions in the Samson manual.
how to splice kernmantle rope.( I mean traditional rope )
Really well done splicing video good sir! Thank you. I'll be less afraid to take on splicing my Vortex now, which is begging for a nice tight eye at one end.
One of my other videos shows how to splice Vortex. It is pretty much the same as the Velocity splice.