In 1989, D-10 was the first model I was in charge of during the factory line training for new employees at the current Hamamatsu headquarters of Roland Corp. I am very happy to see people who continue to use these nostalgic models with great care.
The D10 was my first professional synth and it was the first multi-timbral keyboard with reverb and drums! Almost too good to be true at that time (1988). I made many great sounds myself as I learned how to program it. I especially remember a choir sound that sounded like a sampler using 4 sawtooth waveforms with suitable filter and resonance settings. The high hat was a bit lame but with a higher pitch it sounded better. Snare drums could also sound better if one combined the attack and decay of various snares in various combinations. It sometimes created a slight phaser/pitch-effect that randomly changed the sound and made it sound more dynamic and realistic. I wish it had had a LFO for the filter. That's one of the reasons why the D50 sounds better.
Just restored horribly yellowed keys from Alpha Juno 2. Soaked in very warm water and dishwasking liquid. Rinsed and repeated and dried off using microfiber. As new. High quality materials.
Wow. This was a hard repair job. Thank you for your footage. I love it if things like old computer and synths got new life. There aren’t that many people who can do this. I adore your work. Filming and repainting. Awesome. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much for your comment, i'm happy you enjoyed it! I also really love to give old things new life. But to be honest, its not so much giving them new life, its more that most old things were built to last, even these "low end" roland d5 and d10 synthesizers, making them easy and fun to repair.
This is very nice. I appreciate when someone can take of the equipment like that. I used to have a D-5, but I wasn't even able to replace the main system board. It's very impressive to have such methodical skills to be able to disassemble the entire instrument, do the soldering so neatly, and even being able to fix the traces on the circuit boards. I am quite amazed watching this video.
Hello Dvamateur, thank you so much for the lovely comment, i'm very happy that you enjoyed the video! I'm happy to say i have another synth repair video in the works, which is so long it will likely be multiple series! I assume you don't have the d5 anymore?
@@TheRepairLair No, I no longer have the D-5. When I had it, it produced considerable distortion on both the line and headphone outputs. I ordered the main board replacement, but I wasn't able to replace it. So my whole D-5 experience had ended in a total fiasco.
WOW thank you for this! I appreciate the information. I just bought a Casio MT-70 and will be fixing the non responsive features. Your videos really help.
Very nice video! I also own a D-10. It luckily didn't have a broken pitch bender, but a corroded volume control potentiometer. Had to carefully disassemble it and pry open the slider to clean it with contact cleaner. It's been running great since, although some buttons are pretty bad responsive-wise. Might have to replace those in the future.
Excellent, thanks for sharing! if you see my d5 repair video, i also had issues with the volume control slider (which happens to be the same part as in the d10) and it wasn't corroded, but instead, completely worn out. The buttons definitely have to go!
@@TheRepairLair I'll be sure to watch the repair video of the D-5. Haven't seen them being completely worn out, though, but luckily there's replacements available.
Wow, thanks for making this video! I just got a D-10 with some dead or pushed in buttons (yep, sticky tape was worn out) and different volume levels on some of the keys. I even found an old post stamp (55¢ from 2008) and lots of dust, tobacco and some dead insects inside. I was able to fix most of the issues just by cleaning the keybed and pressing the keys & buttons hard and often. But I didn't have the guts to remove them with all the springs and stuff or even replacing the dead buttons with new ones. I will most probably do that soon to have a fully functional D-10!
Nice work. Especially the corroded solder traces. (Who cares what it looks like ?) And thanks for the vid. These are super easy to work on. Just the 2 circuit boards, keybed and power supply. Did the same as you, all the tact switches and keybed refurb. Your bushings are still on good shape. Mine were not. Also, I rebuilt the power supply. I've been doing that on all my old synths as of late. My bender plate was broken, working on a fix for that.
Your video inspired me and i'm trying to refresh my d10. I need to get to the buttons on the front panel because some of them need to be replaced but i'm stuck at 2:47. I can't pull out some of these plugs but i don't want to pull too hard. Is something supposed to click there? It doesn't want to come out! 😫
These are the same as the connectors in the Roland mc 303 i replaced tactile switches in they are wire ended cables you get a screwdriver and pop up the surrounding holder and pull the cable up once they holder has been lifted sometimes they can break but even then they still go back in no problem and hold the cable
I have to replace all the tact switches on my D20 - but I’m nervous about those raw ribbon cables you pull off the main board around 3:00. Are they just clamped holders? And how easy are they to get back in? Thanks!
Indeed they are just clamped in! The connectors are called "Wire Trap Connectors", and they are easy to both remove and reinstall. You must simply push downwards on the middle part of the connector (basically, the plastic immediately surrounding the cable) - this unclamps the cable, and it can be pulled out with almost no force! The reverse is exactly the same - push the middle part downwards, hold it there, insert the cable and release. The insertion also should take no force when the middle is pressed down correctly.
Wow, I'm so impressed with your skills and patience. I thought I'd done well fixing a key on a PC-180. Lol. I've got a D-110 working but throwing out a distorted sound across all outputs. It seems to be an intermittent problem. Any ideas? I read that it might need the the dac replacing?
any chance you have access to an oscilloscope? my recommendation would be to dig out a service manual and check the entirety of the chain between the sound generation to the output and trying to see if you can find some points where the signal is still good and where it turns bad, lacking a service manual you can still try tracing wires from the outputs back towards the sources in the same way. It could be a problem with the dac, but also, it is more likely to be a power supply issue due to some bad components like capacitors or transistors
@@TheRepairLair Thanks for your reply. I reckon I can change the dac, but, I'm afraid I don't know enough about electronics to investigate this further, but I'm interested in trying to learn enough to be able to diagnose and hopefully fix the problem. ( A new hobby. lol) But that could take a while. Anyway, I've subscribed to your channel. Thanks again.
When you are de-soldering, what is the black and green tool in your left hand? I have my D-10 in parts as I type this. Thanks. Update - Found it, a solder sucker! It made the task so easy.
have a few dead keys but the worst is i cant change midichannel from ch 1 to ch 10 as i like the drumsound illd like to have my drummashin playing the drums on the D10
Sorry to hear that, but as you can see, replacing the buttons really isn't that complicated as long as you disassemble everything carefully and have some tools
Hi, Thanks for the great video! I have enjoyed it a lot! I have a question, maybe you know the answer. I have just bought a D-10 and the keys move side-to-side (wobble) quite a bit. Do you know how to fix it? Thank you!
Hi! Are all keys moving side to side a lot, or just a few? I don't really know what could be wrong there, if its all the keys, then its possible someone had disassembled your synthesizer before and didn't reassemble correctly
@@TheRepairLair Hi, Thanks for the answer! Unfortunately all the keys. There's a solution however. The issue is, the 'key guides' shrink as they age. You can replace them with a 3 x 1mm silicone hose cut to 5mm pieces. Now it's perfect :).
hi! i dont think there is any easy way to do it. You could have custom labels made, remove the leftovers and stick the labels, but that wouldnt look as good. Sorry to say i dont have a good suggestion, but if you find something out, please let me know!
Great video! I am attempting to restore a Roland Juno D which has dead keys like yours. I took it apart and cleaned the rubber membrane / carbon buttons and the pcb where they contact but still not working .. still have some dead keys or difference in volume. I ordered new rubber membrane / carbon buttons to replace the old but wonder if the issue is not on the PCB. You did find a difference in diode output values was that from the corrosion on the PCB? I have seen others "fix" the dead key issue using a pencil / graphite on the buttons. So I wonder if the real cause of the issue is the carbon buttons wear out? The pencil graphite just adds a conductor back to the button. Thanks for posting. fun to watch you dig into it and fix traces on the board.
Thanks for the lovely comment! I think the problems could be caused either by the pcb or the carbon contacts, both on the pcb and on the membrane. The pencil trick definitely works, although you need to make sure its a good pencil and works for this (some dont!) - if you have a multimeter, try drawing a thick blob on a piece of paper and poking the multimeter probes on the blob, if you see that its definitely conducting. Good luck!
@@TheRepairLair Great idea! I will try it out first before applying it. I have new membranes on the way and one of the two PCBs, so mostly will be new but I will use the pencil trick on the pcb that will be original. Again love your content and thanks for posting.
Hi! I don't think i can suggest any "easy" fixes here, but, if you are handy with something like Inkscape, you could take a picture of the text and recreate it on inkscape, then order transparent label printing service online. If you manage to remove all the remaining text you could then just stick the new labels on there. Not the best solution, but reapplying the text in another way i'm not sure if it can be done
The tape is 3M 300LSE low surface energy, buttons are 5x6x6mm 4 pin push button switches, and regarding the pitch bender - any one from D-5, d-10, d-20 or d-50 will fit this synthesizer. Sorry, i didn't keep any specific links i can provide.
hi! I soldered each wire separately. First, add solder to all exposed copper, then add solder to the wire, then add flux to the pcb (ideally flux paste, not liquid) and while holding the wire on top of the traces gently tap it with the iron to flow the solder. If you mess up, just desolder and start again - as long as you dont use excessive force you wont damage anything!! good luck!
Hey. My enter button sticks sometimes when I push it. Do you think relaxing the adhesive will solve this issue? I have never taken it apart so I do not want to unless I know this will likely be the fix.
Hi! Removing the adhesive will create other problems, as it is required for the proper operation of the button. Ideally, you'd want to take it apart and inspect what's going on visually to get a good idea. It could be something as simple as dirt, or, if you mean by sticking that the button sometimes doesn't return, its likely a dead switch. Best of luck!
Yes - it is possible that the carbon coating on the contacts has worn out, BUT - the good news is that you can try and paint over both the rubber side, and the contacts on the pcb with a pencil, and it may fix your problem
If the pcb is cracked like it was on mine, it is somewhat possible but very problematic. You need to glue the pcb back together, and find some conductive paint to reconnect the carbon trace to the metal contact. Likely not worth it, considering working ones could be found for ~20$
@@TheRepairLair I have a D-10 that I recently replaced the battery for thinking that was why it was losing sounds in memory, but it seems like there might be a problem with the connections. It it sporadic and works a little while then doesn't, etc. I haven't taken it apart completely and I don't really have the skills you have with soldering, etc. Not sure if Roland would still repair these or not. Any ideas?
NICE JOB,but why don't you test the key's diod before re screw the missile??so a you said tge same problem with d 50 PCB BOARDING ASSYY,i think acidity of the pcb combined to the time and other factors as fortissimo touching distroy the tracks!!!!for repairing use only good typon,as earing sony from walkman !!!the contacts are truly good with a good iron and nice temperature for resoldering the clues,as u may done!!!!congrate!!
Pretty much a D-20 without the floppy drive and sequencer board. Those wire trap cables are the worst ever, why they ever used them is a mystery, just stick a JST plug/socket on it, grr. Acetone is not particularly plastic friendly, would not recommend for cleaning buttons etc, probably melt them LOL.
I recommended you to bake the text directly in the video rather than using RUclips subtitles, because the later blocked the area of interest throughout most of the video, and if you placed the text directly in the video you can place it around the areas that are not of importance.
While I was writing the previous comment I remembered that you can place the RUclips subs wherever you want, I've seen other channels do it that way. Maybe you can do it that way. To give an example, one area that is hard to watch because the subtitles are blocking what you are doing is around 9:22.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
FYI - there's a test mode you can enter by holding EXIT+EDIT together in which you can check all the switches, pots, keys, LEDs, the disk drive, etc.
Should also note - hold those buttons together while powering the synth on!
In 1989, D-10 was the first model I was in charge of during the factory line training for new employees at the current Hamamatsu headquarters of Roland Corp. I am very happy to see people who continue to use these nostalgic models with great care.
Thank you for sharing this! I'm very happy to have the means to get these old synths back into working state
The D10 was my first professional synth and it was the first multi-timbral keyboard with reverb and drums! Almost too good to be true at that time (1988).
I made many great sounds myself as I learned how to program it. I especially remember a choir sound that sounded like a sampler using 4 sawtooth waveforms with suitable filter and resonance settings.
The high hat was a bit lame but with a higher pitch it sounded better.
Snare drums could also sound better if one combined the attack and decay of various snares in various combinations. It sometimes created a slight phaser/pitch-effect that randomly changed the sound and made it sound more dynamic and realistic.
I wish it had had a LFO for the filter. That's one of the reasons why the D50 sounds better.
Roland keys come up great after a short cycle in the dishwasher! I've used this many times. Works great. Nice restoration here, well done!
Oh that is a brilliant, brilliant suggestion, i never had this idea! I will do that next time, thank you!
@@TheRepairLair most welcome! Mostly I restore Rolands too, MKS70, Juno 60, 106, Alpha 2, JX8P, JX3P, TR606, VS2480, MV8000, and so on : 0
Just restored horribly yellowed keys from Alpha Juno 2. Soaked in very warm water and dishwasking liquid. Rinsed and repeated and dried off using microfiber. As new. High quality materials.
@@steingrimurarnason5784 Great work! retro brighting can work too for keys
Wish i could solder so neatly....Thanks for the upload, inspires me.
thank you for the comment!
I love how these old Roland sound. ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Wow. This was a hard repair job. Thank you for your footage. I love it if things like old computer and synths got new life. There aren’t that many people who can do this. I adore your work. Filming and repainting. Awesome. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much for your comment, i'm happy you enjoyed it! I also really love to give old things new life. But to be honest, its not so much giving them new life, its more that most old things were built to last, even these "low end" roland d5 and d10 synthesizers, making them easy and fun to repair.
Great video! Just replaced all the switches while watching your video. Everything works fine now!
very happy to know it helped!
Thanks for making this! I have the whole set - D-5, D-10, D-20 and D-110 and I intend to keep them alive. This was very helpful.
I have a d-5 awaiting repairs and filming! :)
Thats super dope! I love the D series im super curious about the D-5
This is very nice. I appreciate when someone can take of the equipment like that. I used to have a D-5, but I wasn't even able to replace the main system board. It's very impressive to have such methodical skills to be able to disassemble the entire instrument, do the soldering so neatly, and even being able to fix the traces on the circuit boards. I am quite amazed watching this video.
Hello Dvamateur, thank you so much for the lovely comment, i'm very happy that you enjoyed the video! I'm happy to say i have another synth repair video in the works, which is so long it will likely be multiple series! I assume you don't have the d5 anymore?
@@TheRepairLair No, I no longer have the D-5. When I had it, it produced considerable distortion on both the line and headphone outputs. I ordered the main board replacement, but I wasn't able to replace it. So my whole D-5 experience had ended in a total fiasco.
Amazing video! Fantastic work. Great music selection. I really enjoyed that.
WOW thank you for this! I appreciate the information. I just bought a Casio MT-70 and will be fixing the non responsive features. Your videos really help.
Awesome dude! Thank you. Now I feel a lot more confident about opening my S-10 and repairing its damage.
Best of luck and let us know how it went!
Very nice video! I also own a D-10. It luckily didn't have a broken pitch bender, but a corroded volume control potentiometer. Had to carefully disassemble it and pry open the slider to clean it with contact cleaner. It's been running great since, although some buttons are pretty bad responsive-wise. Might have to replace those in the future.
Excellent, thanks for sharing! if you see my d5 repair video, i also had issues with the volume control slider (which happens to be the same part as in the d10) and it wasn't corroded, but instead, completely worn out. The buttons definitely have to go!
@@TheRepairLair I'll be sure to watch the repair video of the D-5. Haven't seen them being completely worn out, though, but luckily there's replacements available.
Outstanding. Great to know what you love!
thank you, im happy you liked it!
Wow, thanks for making this video! I just got a D-10 with some dead or pushed in buttons (yep, sticky tape was worn out) and different volume levels on some of the keys. I even found an old post stamp (55¢ from 2008) and lots of dust, tobacco and some dead insects inside.
I was able to fix most of the issues just by cleaning the keybed and pressing the keys & buttons hard and often. But I didn't have the guts to remove them with all the springs and stuff or even replacing the dead buttons with new ones. I will most probably do that soon to have a fully functional D-10!
Thanks for sharing that with us! I think you really shouldn't worry, overhauling it definitely looks more scary than it actually is :)
Look into using solder flux. Works great. Nice restoration!
Hi, thanks for the comment! The solder i'm using is flux-cored, so for these big components there's no need to add additional flux.
@@TheRepairLair you cant ever have too much flux! Clean afterwards with alcohol.
Nice work. Especially the corroded solder traces. (Who cares what it looks like ?) And thanks for the vid. These are super easy to work on. Just the 2 circuit boards, keybed and power supply. Did the same as you, all the tact switches and keybed refurb. Your bushings are still on good shape. Mine were not. Also, I rebuilt the power supply. I've been doing that on all my old synths as of late. My bender plate was broken, working on a fix for that.
Thanks for the lovely comment and feedback, i'm happy to hear another D10 is getting saved from the dumpster!
Amazing work : Repair, record each steps, video editing, mix sounds. Bravo!
Thank you very much for the lovely comment!
At time code 7:01 you remove a clear plastic key retainer. What glue or tape do you use to reattach that clear plastic? Or do you leave it off?
wow I have to do a similar restoration for a korg n5... really helpful insight, thanks
Im happy you found it helpful, let us know how it went!
Great thanks I was about to vin mine but now that I see that I just to replace the buttons I will have a go. It was my first synth. ❤
I'm very happy to hear that! Every synth repair day is a good day :)
Your video inspired me and i'm trying to refresh my d10. I need to get to the buttons on the front panel because some of them need to be replaced but i'm stuck at 2:47. I can't pull out some of these plugs but i don't want to pull too hard. Is something supposed to click there? It doesn't want to come out! 😫
These are the same as the connectors in the Roland mc 303 i replaced tactile switches in they are wire ended cables you get a screwdriver and pop up the surrounding holder and pull the cable up once they holder has been lifted sometimes they can break but even then they still go back in no problem and hold the cable
Great video !
It will help much for my D10.
Many thanks :)
Great video. My d10 is now in pieces and I need to order the tact switches
good luck! let us know how everything went :)
I have to replace all the tact switches on my D20 - but I’m nervous about those raw ribbon cables you pull off the main board around 3:00. Are they just clamped holders? And how easy are they to get back in? Thanks!
Indeed they are just clamped in! The connectors are called "Wire Trap Connectors", and they are easy to both remove and reinstall. You must simply push downwards on the middle part of the connector (basically, the plastic immediately surrounding the cable) - this unclamps the cable, and it can be pulled out with almost no force! The reverse is exactly the same - push the middle part downwards, hold it there, insert the cable and release. The insertion also should take no force when the middle is pressed down correctly.
Great job!
If the key presses are not responding you can refine the search by sending MIDI IN, and see if the device will respond on those notes over midi.
Wow, I'm so impressed with your skills and patience. I thought I'd done well fixing a key on a PC-180. Lol. I've got a D-110 working but throwing out a distorted sound across all outputs. It seems to be an intermittent problem. Any ideas? I read that it might need the the dac replacing?
any chance you have access to an oscilloscope? my recommendation would be to dig out a service manual and check the entirety of the chain between the sound generation to the output and trying to see if you can find some points where the signal is still good and where it turns bad, lacking a service manual you can still try tracing wires from the outputs back towards the sources in the same way. It could be a problem with the dac, but also, it is more likely to be a power supply issue due to some bad components like capacitors or transistors
@@TheRepairLair Thanks for your reply. I reckon I can change the dac, but, I'm afraid I don't know enough about electronics to investigate this further, but I'm interested in trying to learn enough to be able to diagnose and hopefully fix the problem. ( A new hobby. lol) But that could take a while. Anyway, I've subscribed to your channel. Thanks again.
Nice video. Good music in the background. :) I'd like to buy a broken keyboard now.
as you see, the d series ate easy to disassemble and work on, go for it!
Wow, thanks a lot, I have one of these which some of the keys don't work no matter how much I clean them. Maybe this was the problem.
I hope you get it fixed!
When you are de-soldering, what is the black and green tool in your left hand? I have my D-10 in parts as I type this. Thanks. Update - Found it, a solder sucker! It made the task so easy.
Yes! It's can also be called a desoldering pump :)
have a few dead keys but the worst is i cant change midichannel from ch 1 to ch 10 as i like the drumsound illd like to have my drummashin playing the drums on the D10
Sorry to hear that, but as you can see, replacing the buttons really isn't that complicated as long as you disassemble everything carefully and have some tools
Hi, Thanks for the great video! I have enjoyed it a lot! I have a question, maybe you know the answer. I have just bought a D-10 and the keys move side-to-side (wobble) quite a bit. Do you know how to fix it? Thank you!
Hi! Are all keys moving side to side a lot, or just a few? I don't really know what could be wrong there, if its all the keys, then its possible someone had disassembled your synthesizer before and didn't reassemble correctly
@@TheRepairLair Hi, Thanks for the answer! Unfortunately all the keys. There's a solution however. The issue is, the 'key guides' shrink as they age. You can replace them with a 3 x 1mm silicone hose cut to 5mm pieces. Now it's perfect :).
@@csabasanta5696 Awesome! Thank you for sharing this info!
My graphic is gone off from the front panel. Any idea how to restore it? It is a very good video. Thank you
hi! i dont think there is any easy way to do it. You could have custom labels made, remove the leftovers and stick the labels, but that wouldnt look as good. Sorry to say i dont have a good suggestion, but if you find something out, please let me know!
Great video! I am attempting to restore a Roland Juno D which has dead keys like yours. I took it apart and cleaned the rubber membrane / carbon buttons and the pcb where they contact but still not working .. still have some dead keys or difference in volume. I ordered new rubber membrane / carbon buttons to replace the old but wonder if the issue is not on the PCB. You did find a difference in diode output values was that from the corrosion on the PCB? I have seen others "fix" the dead key issue using a pencil / graphite on the buttons. So I wonder if the real cause of the issue is the carbon buttons wear out? The pencil graphite just adds a conductor back to the button. Thanks for posting. fun to watch you dig into it and fix traces on the board.
Thanks for the lovely comment! I think the problems could be caused either by the pcb or the carbon contacts, both on the pcb and on the membrane. The pencil trick definitely works, although you need to make sure its a good pencil and works for this (some dont!) - if you have a multimeter, try drawing a thick blob on a piece of paper and poking the multimeter probes on the blob, if you see that its definitely conducting. Good luck!
@@TheRepairLair Great idea! I will try it out first before applying it. I have new membranes on the way and one of the two PCBs, so mostly will be new but I will use the pencil trick on the pcb that will be original. Again love your content and thanks for posting.
Also on mine all the white printed info around the keys on the case is going away… not sure how to fix that. Any ideas ?
Hi! I don't think i can suggest any "easy" fixes here, but, if you are handy with something like Inkscape, you could take a picture of the text and recreate it on inkscape, then order transparent label printing service online. If you manage to remove all the remaining text you could then just stick the new labels on there. Not the best solution, but reapplying the text in another way i'm not sure if it can be done
Do you have a link to the tape, buttons, and pitch bend you used?
The tape is 3M 300LSE low surface energy, buttons are 5x6x6mm 4 pin push button switches, and regarding the pitch bender - any one from D-5, d-10, d-20 or d-50 will fit this synthesizer. Sorry, i didn't keep any specific links i can provide.
@@TheRepairLair no worries, that should be enough information and I really appreciate it!
Did the 6x6x6 tactile buttons work? The factory buttons are 6x6x5, i believe...
🤔
Hmm i must have made a mistake somewhere in the video, as i did write 5x6x6 in the description. It is definitely 5x6x6!
Hi, How did you keep the tracks separate while soldering at 10.12.
hi! I soldered each wire separately. First, add solder to all exposed copper, then add solder to the wire, then add flux to the pcb (ideally flux paste, not liquid) and while holding the wire on top of the traces gently tap it with the iron to flow the solder. If you mess up, just desolder and start again - as long as you dont use excessive force you wont damage anything!! good luck!
Hey. My enter button sticks sometimes when I push it. Do you think relaxing the adhesive will solve this issue? I have never taken it apart so I do not want to unless I know this will likely be the fix.
Hi! Removing the adhesive will create other problems, as it is required for the proper operation of the button. Ideally, you'd want to take it apart and inspect what's going on visually to get a good idea. It could be something as simple as dirt, or, if you mean by sticking that the button sometimes doesn't return, its likely a dead switch. Best of luck!
@@TheRepairLairthank you. Is there soldering required install new buttons?
@@jordanrattanavong2655 Yes, as shown in the video, you must desolder the old one and solder in a new one.
Do you know if the rubber key pads sometimes wear out or disintergrate causing an intermitent key?
Yes - it is possible that the carbon coating on the contacts has worn out, BUT - the good news is that you can try and paint over both the rubber side, and the contacts on the pcb with a pencil, and it may fix your problem
@@TheRepairLair Thank you. I will have to take it apart at some point and gie it a look. It's likely the key I used as a snare drum.
Are you based near London? I own D10 and need this! :)
send me an email, the rp lair at gmail dot com, i might be able to help
Are the benders repairable?
If the pcb is cracked like it was on mine, it is somewhat possible but very problematic. You need to glue the pcb back together, and find some conductive paint to reconnect the carbon trace to the metal contact. Likely not worth it, considering working ones could be found for ~20$
Dispongo de uno que habría que reparar.
Do you repair vintage synths for hire?
I repair things as a hobby, so far only done 3 synths, only digital. But i might be able to help :)
@@TheRepairLair I have a D-10 that I recently replaced the battery for thinking that was why it was losing sounds in memory, but it seems like there might be a problem with the connections. It it sporadic and works a little while then doesn't, etc. I haven't taken it apart completely and I don't really have the skills you have with soldering, etc. Not sure if Roland would still repair these or not. Any ideas?
Como se cambia el tono a roland d10
What do you mean exactly by change the tone?
NICE JOB,but why don't you test the key's diod before re screw the missile??so a you said tge same problem with d 50 PCB BOARDING ASSYY,i think acidity of the pcb combined to the time and other factors as fortissimo touching distroy the tracks!!!!for repairing use only good typon,as earing sony from walkman !!!the contacts are truly good with a good iron and nice temperature for resoldering the clues,as u may done!!!!congrate!!
Pretty much a D-20 without the floppy drive and sequencer board. Those wire trap cables are the worst ever, why they ever used them is a mystery, just stick a JST plug/socket on it, grr. Acetone is not particularly plastic friendly, would not recommend for cleaning buttons etc, probably melt them LOL.
I recommended you to bake the text directly in the video rather than using RUclips subtitles, because the later blocked the area of interest throughout most of the video, and if you placed the text directly in the video you can place it around the areas that are not of importance.
While I was writing the previous comment I remembered that you can place the RUclips subs wherever you want, I've seen other channels do it that way. Maybe you can do it that way.
To give an example, one area that is hard to watch because the subtitles are blocking what you are doing is around 9:22.
Thank you for the suggestion, i will take a look!
ローランドのシンセって製造過程でほんとに品質悪いよね。日本製と思えない。コルグやヤマハは全くそんなトラブルないんだけどね。