How to Install Rigid Foam Insulation (Owens Corning Foamular Installation On Basement Walls)
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
- Learn How to Install Rigid Foam Insulation (Owens Corning Foamular) on basement walls with this DIY, step-by-step video.
In this video, you'll learn how to cut rigid foam insulation to size, how to attach the foam insulation to concrete basement walls, and how to tape the rigid foam seams.
To install Rigid Foam Insulation on basement walls, you will need the following tools and materials 🛠🧰:
Rigid Foam Insulation Adhesive: amzn.to/3uJZyee
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Rigid Foam Insulation (Owens Corning): www.homedepot....
For more information on how to install Rigid Foam Insulation on Basement walls, you can check out my blog article linked here:
atimprovements...
The Steps to Installing Rigid Foam Insulation are as follows:
1. Trim the height of the insulation based on the height of your basement walls.
2. Attach the Rigid Foam Insulation to the walls using adhesive.
3. Trim the Rigid Foam Insulation around windows, etc.
4. Tape the Seams.
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Andrew, looks like your place is really coming along. That basement looks good and dry! Cheers! Thomas! P.S. Your speed photography makes everything look easy! HaHa!
Haha appreciate it Thomas! And it’s never, ever as easy as it looks or you think it will be. It took me 3 hours to replace a dishwasher yesterday at my parents house when I thought it would take 30 minutes lol thanks for supporting the channel!
I love rigid foam insulation. I prefer polyiso and went with 2 inch panels with R13. Instead of a framed wall I used 1/2 inch Hardibacker and tile over that. I dropped down electrical from the ceiling to the outlets.
My first first comment. I am impressed and I did wonder about the technique of rigid insulation board. Framing over top of it makes such good sense and with lots less cuts than cutting board to fit between 2 x 4's. Thanks for a good show.
First time for everything, Patrick! Appreciate you watching and for the continued support! Not the most exciting of videos, but it’s gotta be done before we can get to the more exciting projects. Cheers!
I see you applied adhesive vertically to allow moisture to flow down but do you also leave a gap at the bottom for it to get out? How did you handle that? I have seen foam board with a stucco coating and was if that adhesive would be enough to hold it in place and just paint it.
Thanks for the video. I'm getting ready to do that now.
Those walls look like they've already had water leakage. Wouldnt it be a good idea to fix that before covering up the discolored areas? It looks like trouble brewing to me.
Must be a flip.
Do you just sit the foam
Board right down on the concrete floor or should there be a barrier ?
Depending how wet, tons of mold.
Good information we have an unfinished basement I think they were using as a movie room, our house was built in the 60s with a concrete floor the just glue cheap thin carpet on so once we pull it up will definitely being using that thicker plywood cause we live in Kansas we have floods and snow storms
Nice video.
Reading your comments… wiuld ypu recommend to have few inch of air gap before you frame the wall. Than install ridge foam in between? With air gap, do i need vents
Andrew- cutie you can install anything you want in my house ❤
Nice video!
What happens when you get moisture? that looks like it could be a big problem in the future.
Water would get trapped behind the foam and/or seep out below the bottom. Neither the concrete or foam care about getting wet so not much of a problem. Mold doesn’t feed on concrete or foam either.
You're right about trapping moisture between the rigid insulation and the masonry wall. A better method is to put rigid insulation between the wall studs and leave a space between the masonry wall and the stud wall. Also use a foil backed rigid insulation, it's similar price and a higher R value.
@@richardmckrell4899 how would you adhere the rigid insulation to the studs? would you just use adhesive on the sides?
@@aa_3507 You don't, you friction fit them between studs or put something on the back of the studs so the insulation does not push through. Most people just glue it to the foundation like this guy.
Did you have insulation in your rim joist before installing the foam board? I have deep ones I am debating if I need to air seal prior to doing something similar
Don’t know if it’s too late but he’s using closed cell spray foam for joists is best and rockwool on top of that
@@Moonkey-d4bwhat about the sill plate? Wouldn't moisture still want to accumulate there?
@@robertm5969the sill
Plate should be installed on top of a foam gasket and if you use closed cell foam for the rim board with a thick layer of rockwool, air movement should be limited and prevent condensation in most cases.
How'd you learn to do all this? RUclips? Books? Or you do it for a living? Nice vid :)
cutting and gluing isn't rocket science
@@stoneyj1a1 Haha....good point.
What if the foundation have moisture from the outside? Are we trapping mold?
Where do you leave the space for air to pass thru? Is it between the studs and xps?
Question. What made you pick r5 or 7.5 or r10?
Can you put up sheet rock on Thermax sheathing installation walls without studying out a wall? I have a long wall to do and I didn’t want to start it out and I was gonna use liquid nails to apply it but I did not if it would work.
My basement has some foam with mesh and a stucco coat over the concrete, and some masonry rock type things. Basically my walls are not flat. Should I try to remove the stucco and mesh to get directly onto the concrete walls or do you think I can just double up on foam where the uneven areas are ? Not sure if that makes sense lol
If stucco substrate is good (not crumbling) and not too uneven, you could apply adhesive in a grid pattern of blobs (vs. lines as Andrew did here). That’s how done on TOH basement project, also posted on YT.
can this stuff be glued into pl;ace? its for my doghouse
Does the foam insulation at as a vapor barrier?
If 2" thick or more, yes
You never want to install rigid insulation against a masonry wall, especially below grade. It's done all the time, however there is a high chance of trapping moisture and creating an environment for mold growth. The best practice is to move the stud wall away from the exterior wall and use foil faced rigid insulation between the studs. Leave openings for air to circulate behind the walls and use dehumidifiers to keep humidity below 50%.
I just pulled all the gypsume board off my finished basement walls as part of a remodel. I found that the sheetrock was installed over paneling that was attached to 1/2 furing strips which were nailed to the poured concrete foundation. There was no mold or moisture indications and prior to demo, that room stayed stayed fairly warm. I believe not every basement needs the walls covered with foamboard especially if you just plan to finish part of a basement (In my case half finished) but in fact should be allowed to breath. I keep a dehumidifier running all summer at 55% and because of how that room was built with air gaps between the wall I believe the entire basement can stay dry.
@@thedailylunchbox-foodforth6307 Keep the humidity under 50% and no fiberglass insulation.
i have a question do you still put a fiberglass foam in your basement after the rigid foam.
i never have and always seems to stay warm/cool.
most people would, doesn;t seem like he knows what hes doing here
What is the advantages of using the ridgid foam against the wall vs putting standard insulation in between the studs?
Continuous insulation means no thermal bridging. A r13 batt isn’t actually r13 because wood studs are about r1.1 per inch. Insulating the stud cavity doesn’t account for the drop in insulation r value at the studs.
Fiberglass and studs between concrete and conditioned space = moisture issues and mold. You want a continuous vapor barrier which rigid foam provides
You didn't leave an air gap between the foam and foundation?
Curious about this too...trying to figure out the best was to accomplish this, I heard it's better in the long run
@@loganramsey1957 I've pretty much made up my mind and will be doing at least a 3/8" stand off when I go to complete my basement.
My house is from 79 and in a developing town, so I'm pretty certain it does not have a vapour barrier under the slab or foundation :(
@ what about behind the foam on the vertical wall?
@@loganramsey1957 for that I'm using foundation wrap after I treat the wall for any visible cracks and known leak points
Your actually not supposed to. I’ve read that you will have a convection loop from cold blocks on top and warmer blocks down low. This will cause condensation supposedly
Is that a Viewrail railing at 1:06 ?
Hi Andrew, love the videos and the work. Not sure where you are located, but do you think R-5 (1" foam board) is enough insulation for your basement? Most basement walls require R-13 to 15 to meet code, that is.
I used the same adhesive but it doesn’t stick because of the uneven concrete surface. Got the studs bracing it and hope it does by tomorrow. Did it stick for you or had to do something additional to get it to stay put?
Try using thicker beads of adhesive. I also add some small circles uniformly, this will create a bit of a suction effect
Are we wasting more space this way? because of thickness of foamular board +thickness of 2X4?
I wouldn't say wasted. The foam board acts as a vapor barrier. The 2x4 studs allow for electrical box installation and load bearing for cabinets. Some people just use 1x3 strips on the flat if you're not going to add electrical and want the extra space.
That's XPS right?
Hi Andrew, I'm just curious what did the permitting process look like for all these projects that you're doing? Did you have to submit them as you went or all at once.
permit to add foam insulation? are you serious?
@@stoneyj1a1 he was clearly framing it up lol and going to finish the basement
I wouldn't be surprised if a permit was required to install insulation since doing it wrong can lead to mold growth.
Why did you install the boards vertically instead of horizontally? I believe sheet rock installation is installed horizontally. This way you are using two boards to cover 8ft. It appears that using 3 boards you get only additional 4 ft. Not a very good ROI on material. Your thoughts.
Better drainage potential as adhesive is in vertical strip. If a water event happened it would flow down to floor rather than accumulate behind foam board
Yeah, I wound up doing it vertically after doing some more research. Thanks for your reply.
only foam board? that added barely any R value. i would have used fibreglass afterwards
I am doing my basement and I’m doing everything u side
Come and do my finished basement for content. Lol 😂
Wow ... that was a fast video... I'm dizzy!
Haha sorry! Trying to get the info out quickly and concisely since I feel like there is often too much fluff with these DIY videos. Give this comment a like 👍 if you agree with Trebor that I’m going too fast!
@@AndrewThronImprovements No doubt. I appreciate the short length. Too many people make it about them and often I move on to a video that i can watch until the end. Great work!!!
It's time to see what's hiding behind that styrofoam now. U wonder if it is black already.