Blade Steel Talk Pt. 1 - What Makes Steels Different - Carbon vs Stainless, Chemistry, & Properties
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
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You are a better man than I. Many moons ago before I switched to being a computer science guy, I was a chemist and anytime someone asks me about which is better or why something I just grunt. If they insist, I only reference it in terms of sharpening or salt water issues. Past that, I'm not even trying to compress this down to anything near this, it makes my brain hurt to even think about it these days LOL.
This was very well done Doc! I appreciate your diligence to detail yet still making this accessible to the layperson. Here are some suggestions for a follow-up (in no particular order):
-No Name Steels: what are you really getting with something labeled as 'stainless steel/surgical steel'?
-8CR13MOV or perhaps this 'family' of budget steels (xCRxxMOV). Is this deserving of being thought of as a 'crap' steel?
-D2 Seeming the current rage by commercial knife companies to offer a better performing steel at an affordable price.
-440x family of steels
-S35VN Worth the hype?
-154CM, CPM154
-AUS6, 6A, 8, 8A, 10, 10A
-10xx series Understanding what the xx differences really mean in terms of performance
-Overview of so-called Super Steels (ELMAX, M390, etc..)
-SANDVIK steel. 12C27, 14c28N
Maybe some of these could be lumped together if you did not want a deep dive in one particular steel. Keep up the good work Doc!
Great video and very informative! Love the cerakote on the Terävä, now I must do it on my Puukko and skrama :)
Thanks for the recommendation on this video docp watching now
A term a lot of knife makers prefer is "corrosion resistant" rather than "stainless". More accurate
Thanks for the shout out Doc. But it's Darkhammer Forge not Dragon Forge. (They only do ornamental ironwork)
So two questions for you first question is about the company or maker that's doing the heat treat? Are all s30vs equal? Are all 440 A's equal? Are all d2's equal? Other than a company's reputation is there any way to tell if you got a good batch of heat treat? My second question is what do you consider a minimum grade steel for everyday carry to include opening packages bags possibly skinny rabbit a deer maybe larger?
Hey doc what about m398?
9cr13mov and aus-10. I've been seeing those 2 more and always wanted to kniw what the comparable steels are. Thanks.
And yes as you have said and myself as well; heat treat is EVERYTHING. K R Knfmkr AKA Darkhammer Forge
The face cam is a nice touch
DocP91B what is the Best way to store your knives in or out of the sheaths?
If the sheath is leather, definitely out. Leather keeps moisture in.
@@DocP91B That is what I thought but I wasn’t quite sure about Kydex sheath
Is it true that k90 is the best steel when it comes to edge retention? Thank you sir.
I can't find anything on k90 steel do you ahve a reference to a knife that uses it?
@@DocP91B oh. My fault. It was k390. That's what my friend say.
OK Cool, got that one. I'll give you a much more in depth talk on it and how it relates to A11 tool steel in the Part 2 video. But here is just one little cliffhanger I'll leave you with - While actual hardness can be measured - which is a key part of the edge retention of a blade - there has yet to be invented any industry or community wide consistent and certified edge retention testing procedure or judging guidelines. Just watch 10 different RUclips tests or reviews and you'll see 10 different folks doing 10 different tests regimes and giving you 10 different "definite" results. But I will break down why and how K390 is a super bad ass blade steel later.
@@DocP91B thanks sir. I'll stay tuned!
What’s that natural g 10 handled knife
It's a CH305 by CH Knives
80crv2 is a great all around steel we recommend it alot in the bladesmithing groups i admin... For people watching on carbon steel blades to add protection is to FORCE PATINA the blades.. Boiled vinegar is good forced patina... Boiled vinegar/black tea or black coffee is great forced patina...
How do you feel about the mustard method? I've never tried it. I've heard about it, but,,,
@@DocP91B any acid works.. Mustard, ketchup, etc.. Times and degrees depends on the acidity... Mustard is cool because you can do patterned patina on the blade because you have controlled squeeze out... So you can do a pattern, let it sit, wash it, do another pattern over the one you just did, wash it, and keep building and layering the pattern.. Or just do a solid coat over the blade...
@@DocP91B just remember when patterning that its the opposite of what you think.. The thicker areas of mustard will be lighter and the thinner areas of mustard will be darker...
@@williamdrake6711 blacksmith bluing is another way but wears off easy
Not sure what you are referring to as blacksmith bluing... If youre talking about heating it up and oiling then no because youre screwing the temper thats been done... If youre talking about cold bluing then no because its not food safe and i prefer my knives be able to used on whatever... The options i gave dont screw with heat treat on these finished blades and are natural so food safe.. Other options are cerakoting and parkerizing...
Nitro-V. Thank You Sir and Be Well.
14c28n vs M390
H-1 steel. Thank you
Brittleness vs durability
M4
8Cr13MoV