Thanks for the tips. I have a 1992 F-350 crew dually, same issue. I was going to change the master cylinder and brake booster but, I'll do this first. If that doesn't do the trick, I'll go back to the two latter choices. You stole that beauty! Thanks again!
Make sure you first check where your bleeder screws are on your calipers if you are having issues. I that bleeder screw is on the bottom of the caliper you may be getting good bleed results and still have the spongy brake. My 2000 excursion kept having that issue until I finally pinched off lines going to the back brakes. Then I took the right rear caliper off and turned it upside down and rebled and that solved my issue. the bleeder screw was on the bottom and therefore some air was trapped on top in the caliper even though it looked like there was no air. I bled the system multiple times. Then I remembered my physics classes....
Right on! Thanks a million Brig T, I've been having issues with my 94 f350 7.3 idi 4x4 truck & Im confident this is the problem after watching your video. Appreciate taking time to get this solution out there for fellow Ford Truck owners
Great video, this is a serious help for me. My 1996 F-350 crew cab long bed 4x4 dually has the exact same problem. All the brakes are new, bother rotors, good calipers and pads, new brake drums and shoes and all springs and hardware. I just got finished replacing all the brake lines with the nickel copper alloy lines, thoroughly bled all the brakes and still have a spongy pedal. Luckily I have that part in stock.
Installed a new Modulator Valve yesterday on my 1990 F-150. It did the trick. Thanks to your video, I saved a nice sum of money, guess I’ll put the money towards a new set of tires :)
Just wanted to say that I was having the same problem with the brakes and I replaced the rabs valve it fixed the problem. Now I have high and firm brakes. Thanks for the help
I believe that is called the proportioning valve in my '96 and after bleeding it along with the rest of the system, the pedal felt firm again, just like when the truck was new.
thanks for the vid and im jealous about f350 you scored great deal!! I've been working on a 1990 F-250 that belongs to a friend of mine that has a spongy brake pedal after putting new master cylinder new booster new calipers new rubber lines I found this video today now I'm going to replace the modulator thanks again this is the only video I found on RUclips that touches this subject
I have had the same issue with my truck , I need to replace mine and the electric box too as my dually is having chatter problems too but yet still no ABS light, I swear the guy who did quality control for these must have been blind. Everyone I talk to whom has the same issue say their lights never came on either. Thank You Brig T the Video was very helpful in showcasing where and how easy the item is to remove & replace it with a little care!
I have been ripping my fn hair out with this and watching this has totally fixed my problem if I was standing in front of u I would give u a bear hug for ending the torture I have been through with spongy brake pedal my truck is 96 f350 7.3 thank u brother ✌🏼👍🏼
Wanted to thank you VERY MUCH for this insight; even though I have the Haynes, Chilton, and 10,000 page factory workshop manual, THEY MAKE NO REFERENCE TO BLEEDING THE RABS--UNBELIEVABLE.
I'd have that exact problem. Thanks for making the video. I wonder how they rebuilt those modulators. There has to be some way of rebuilding them. I used to work in the industry, we remanufactured parts, one of the key things is knowing what is bad, a seal or something. I'm going to bleed mine as my "brake" warning light comes on all the time. Great find for $1200. I got an XLT Lariat extended cab F350 dually for $1,800 and it came with a gear vendors, 5th wheel hitch and a 110 gallon fuel cell in the bed. Great trucks.
Having these issues as I speak. Repair shop charged me 2700 dollars to fix my truck. Truck sat for a year cause of an injury I had and just went to take for drive. And brake pedal was really hard to push but pedal would not come back up. Took to shop again and 642.00 later they said it was the mechanical pump. Replaced that came home woke up today and now pedal goes to floor and slowly comes up. I am flat pissed off at my ford. I do I trouble shoot my issues alone. Have no one near by to help with bleeding of the brakes.
In the old location where the old fashioned component (Non-electrical) "proportional valve" used to reside. As much as I respect the decision by automakers to employ ABS tech to rigs to create a more safe braking system for adverse road conditions, it was not necessarily as huge step forward for the pickup owners of the world. I admit they have improved the braking characteristics for passenger cars, but it was not the leap they thought it was going to be for the heavy truck industry, especially for the semi-tractor industry as well. They have complicated a system that has worked for decades to what end? An increased functional maintenance costs threw the roof is not what I consider to a positive, but rather the opposite. Good catch on this valve having air in the system or just being stuck in general. One thing to keep in mind though is that a true ABS unit will have not four but rather six lines to it, and it is an electrical motor driven rotary valve and looks nothing like this, and would be mounted very close to the master cylinder to avoid long metal lines to it from master cylinder. The lines from it would then extend down to the valve you have just shown, and then on to whatever corner it was plumbing brake fluid to. Shoe adjustment is critical to any "hard and high" brake pedal, but air is and always will be the primary culprit in any braking system other than an air brake system. The only other often overlooked culprit is the vacuum booster behind the master cylinder. Symptom: Brake pedal travels towards firewall forever, but eventually it stops rig. But no brakes with just a touch, like we are used to appreciate in a well behaving power brake system. This is often due to a vehicles history of being parked for six months or more in hot areas causing "rubber rot" and all it takes is a "pin hole" and the diaphragm leaks vacuum and the power to brakes lessens.
thank you for these videos!! much needed , I have a 96 F-superduty reg cab flatbed an I love it just now having the idle problem I will change the map sensor now thanks a lot man!!
Wow thanks man ,I just bought a 1997 crew cab single wheel f350 with that exact same problem , cost me $1000 bucks to have couple crooked shops install a windshield and install one brake line and bleed the brakes just to have a spongy peddle. Now thanks to you I can fix myself . Thank you
Thats awesome. I hope it fixes your problem. I've done this repair on 3 F series trucks over the years and it fixed it every time. Look on Ebay for the part. Good luck!
I was about to go buy a booster and master cylinder for my 1995 F250, I'm going to try the abs modulator like you did, thanks!! And good buy on the f350!
I've changed a few of these on F series trucks over the years and it has fixed the problem every time. Buy OE. not AFT. Thanks for the compliment on the truck. I love this truck. It runs so awesome
Brig T , I know u said you don't recommend buying after market abs modulator for this, you also said you used one for a ford van. Can you point me in the right direction on eBay for one for an 01 f350, it may be the same if I'm understanding the video correctly.
thanks for the abs modulator info bro that has to be my problem only 1994 e350 Ford Shasta Rv van frame spongy brakes I bleed them twice still spongy I replaced my Dr side caliper line and bleeded it still spongy so Imma change the abs modulator
I was working on an 1990's era E350 that had spongy brakes, back when I was a technician. I spent easily over 20 hours trying to diagnose this issue. I eventually got the brakes to feel a little better with an updated master cylinder (per Ford TSB), but I had to let the vehicle go. Great job finding the issue! I do have a question: is there a diagnostic procedure for finding this problem, outside of simply replacing the part? When working as a tech, I have to know the part is bad before selling it to the customer.
Thanks for the vid... Have same problem with my d.o.m. 4/90. My abs light is on , spongy pedal and now spongy and pedal drops to floor. Jim Colorado springs co. Thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😠😄😄😄😄😄😄😄
Would bleeding the brakes and the modulator be a temporary fix for this? Obviously over time air will be let into the system again but I can't find a modulator for a reasonable price at the moment and was really hoping to find at least somewhat of a fix.
You say that when you took off your old unit there was quite a bit of air in it. Did you first try and bleed the unit first before spending money on a new one? Maybe that was all it needed, to be bled of air. I bled mine and big difference in pedal feel, much firmer and higher, still good after a couple of years.
Very good question. Yes I did bleed it before replacing it and it made no difference. After replacing it, I bled the entire system starting from the back of the truck to the front and to the ABS unit. Night and day difference after replacing it works great to this day
Thanks for sharing this video . I own a 93 Ford F-350 4x4 & have not experienced this yet but sure good to know what I am up against if it does happen down the road .
I am having that same problem with my 1994 F350 7.3 turbo charged diesel. I would of thought that the abs light would come on and remain lit if there was a problem with the abs module?
I’m having same problem with my 97 f250 hd I was thinking the same thing. I’ve bled all the brakes changed master cylinder but I was assuming the light would be on if this was the problem but who knows
@@sethturner298 Well, next week I'll find out if this is really the problem. I just got a rebuilt unit and am having our mechanic install it for me. I can hardly wait, and I am really hoping that this works and I have good breaking as I should have. It's spooky having to pump the break pedal. I'll let you know it goes.
@@RogerSayers did you ever find the problem? I bought my 1991 F350 460 3 months ago and now the brakes are spongy, I’m going to tear into it this weekend hopefully
I'm wandering I have a 78 f250 and I'm looking at the poportioning valve seems to be the abs madulator on the newer Ford's serves same purpose. Going to check if theres a bleeder valve on it. Cant get rid of those damn spongy brakes.
Super nice truck!!! I love flatbeds. Thanks for the info my 16 year old son has been working tirelessly on getting my old 7.3. Same problem with the brakes, going to bleed to module today. Do you gravity bleed or pump the brakes as on the cylinders?
This makes complete since now. My abs light came on at the same time..replaced the master cylinder and nothing.. Thanks for the info. Do you have a ford part number?
have 1998 f150. have to push the brake pedal a long way for the brakes to work...new master cyl/new boster(with boster rod properly adjusted) / new rear wheel cylinders/ALLnew brake lines/new rotors/new calipers/properly bled brakes...still LOW brake pedal gor brakes to tale hold. have been told " just the nature of older trucks" rear shoe brakes adjusted properly.......help...(brakes work great, once you push the pedal down far enough)
I have spongy breaks, on a F250 1992. I replaced the MC, and the rabs hydraulic. Breaks are still spongy and the rear brakes are locking up. Do you have any suggestions, totally lost at this point.
Thanks. Good info. Does the ABS need to be operational to have this fix solve the spongy brakes? I have a 96 e350 Quigley converted 4x4 van with a 460 7.5L. It of course has the sponge brakes. It also weighs nearly 10k. The front is essentially a f350 axle. It has modified (by Quigley) ABS wheel sensors...really just the bracket. Ive had an ABS light on as long as I have owned it. I was told it was just the left sensor. So I dropped the $400 to get Quigley to send me their modified version and have it installed. When it didn't make the ABS light go off I gave up. Was told by a Ford dealer that the rear ABS needed to be changed too. I decided I didn't need ABS. But I am wondering about this fix. Could this solve my spongy brakes without having to further fix the ABS? How is the ABS modulator different from the ABS wheel mounted sensors? Thanks for any thoughts on this.
i know i'm late but by spongy he means the pedal drops to the floor fast and doesn't stay firm and hissing when you press the brakes sounds more like the brake booster
nice find! Hey, I'll let you double your money and I'll give you $2400! C'mon, it's a win-win deal! Just kidding, but seriously: a, thanks for taking the time to video this stuff; and b, SELL ME YOUR TRUCK!
Hi, what about the ones that doesnt have ABS? Mine is a 1988 custom F250 with the 460 C6 ... still spongy after changing the master cylinder and bleeding all lines.
I just bought a 1996 f250 7.5L 460 4x4 and the issue I'm having on the brake pedal is the stiffness when pressing on it to stop the truck. Is that the ABS module or the master cylinder?
Im not sure about your transmission but over the years i have had and seen a few e4od transmissions have the 2-3 shift solenoid get stuck. The truck will run/drive fine until it comes time to shift into 3rd gear...
Yea this dosent fix it Everytime. Im here to tell ya. Disable the old one first see it that fixes the issues . The real issue is the master cylinder for this year dosent move enough fluid for the dual cylinder calipers . You have to use a newer master with a bigger orfic
Hi Brig/gentlemen, I have a 1992 Ford F250 7.3L IDI, I have to tap the pedal down for the "first start of the day" to kick in the choke (higher RPM) and it stays high for about 3 mins. to warm up and settles down. If I dont tap the pedal it stays at regular RPM. any idea what could be the issue ?
The 7.3L IDI is a diesel, so it doesn't have a choke. The engine speed is governed by the amount of fuel injected by the injection pump. These engines have a cold start rpm solenoid and a cold advance solenoid, on or near the injection pump. I would check to make sure that you are receiving battery voltage to both of these solenoids when the engine is cold. It is also possible that one of the solenoids is bad. Another, more unlikely problem, is that your injection pump is bad.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the tips. I have a 1992 F-350 crew dually, same issue. I was going to change the master cylinder and brake booster but, I'll do this first. If that doesn't do the trick, I'll go back to the two latter choices. You stole that beauty! Thanks again!
THIS explains my problem! I changed the master, bled and adjusted rears, STILL spongy. Thanks for taking the time to share this info!
TheGulfomex
That's so cool that this video was helpful. Thanks for letting me know.
@@BrigT262 Can you post a link because i can not find a ford/motorcraft part. It's all cardone or other aftermarket names. Thank you in advance.
Make sure you first check where your bleeder screws are on your calipers if you are having issues. I that bleeder screw is on the bottom of the caliper you may be getting good bleed results and still have the spongy brake. My 2000 excursion kept having that issue until I finally pinched off lines going to the back brakes. Then I took the right rear caliper off and turned it upside down and rebled and that solved my issue. the bleeder screw was on the bottom and therefore some air was trapped on top in the caliper even though it looked like there was no air. I bled the system multiple times. Then I remembered my physics classes....
Right on! Thanks a million Brig T, I've been having issues with my 94 f350 7.3 idi 4x4 truck & Im confident this is the problem after watching your video. Appreciate taking time to get this solution out there for fellow Ford Truck owners
Cool glad I could help. let me know if that solves your problem
Yes I have the same exact truck as yours Peter Gruhlkey and the same exact problem this helps a lot.!!
Great video, this is a serious help for me. My 1996 F-350 crew cab long bed 4x4 dually has the exact same problem.
All the brakes are new, bother rotors, good calipers and pads, new brake drums and shoes and all springs and hardware. I just got finished replacing all the brake lines with the nickel copper alloy lines, thoroughly bled all the brakes and still have a spongy pedal.
Luckily I have that part in stock.
Installed a new Modulator Valve yesterday on my 1990 F-150. It did the trick. Thanks to your video, I saved a nice sum of money, guess I’ll put the money towards a new set of tires :)
Help! What is the part number of this “modulator valve”? Thx
Just wanted to say that I was having the same problem with the brakes and I replaced the rabs valve it fixed the problem. Now I have high and firm brakes.
Thanks for the help
@@redartisanwolf6716 rabs= rear antilock break valve...its what the guy in the vid is showing
I believe that is called the proportioning valve in my '96 and after bleeding it along with the rest of the system, the pedal felt firm again, just like when the truck was new.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge of the brake system, saved me significantly in regards to time and coin !
thanks for the vid and im jealous about f350 you scored great deal!! I've been working on a 1990 F-250 that belongs to a friend of mine that has a spongy brake pedal after putting new master cylinder new booster new calipers new rubber lines I found this video today now I'm going to replace the modulator thanks again this is the only video I found on RUclips that touches this subject
Did it work?
@@justicebruno5249 in deed it did!
This is exactly what my problem is with my '87 F-250 and thanks so much for this diagnosis as it will probably save me a bundle.
Did you fix your break problem ?
I have had the same issue with my truck , I need to replace mine and the electric box too as my dually is having chatter problems too but yet still no ABS light, I swear the guy who did quality control for these must have been blind. Everyone I talk to whom has the same issue say their lights never came on either. Thank You Brig T the Video was very helpful in showcasing where and how easy the item is to remove & replace it with a little care!
I have been ripping my fn hair out with this and watching this has totally fixed my problem if I was standing in front of u I would give u a bear hug for ending the torture I have been through with spongy brake pedal my truck is 96 f350 7.3 thank u brother ✌🏼👍🏼
Brig, all I can say is Thank you for taking the trouble and posting this video
Wanted to thank you VERY MUCH for this insight; even though I have the Haynes, Chilton, and 10,000 page factory workshop manual, THEY MAKE NO REFERENCE TO BLEEDING THE RABS--UNBELIEVABLE.
So glad I could help you out!
I changed everything under the hood to no fix then I see this... you are a God my baseball capped buddy!
Thanks for making this video. Just purchased a 1990 F-250 with a truck camper. Brakes feel spongy. Thanks for the tip. I wouldn't never known.
What a deal on that truck. Looks great. Thanks for the info.. much needed. I’d like to see a video of the flat bed process.
I'd have that exact problem. Thanks for making the video. I wonder how they rebuilt those modulators. There has to be some way of rebuilding them. I used to work in the industry, we remanufactured parts, one of the key things is knowing what is bad, a seal or something. I'm going to bleed mine as my "brake" warning light comes on all the time. Great find for $1200. I got an XLT Lariat extended cab F350 dually for $1,800 and it came with a gear vendors, 5th wheel hitch and a 110 gallon fuel cell in the bed. Great trucks.
I thought I was watching Gibbs on NCIS for a second!
My thought too.
Holy crap he looks just like him lmao
Im so old i was thinking Freddy Shoop from Summer School.
Having these issues as I speak. Repair shop charged me 2700 dollars to fix my truck. Truck sat for a year cause of an injury I had and just went to take for drive. And brake pedal was really hard to push but pedal would not come back up. Took to shop again and 642.00 later they said it was the mechanical pump. Replaced that came home woke up today and now pedal goes to floor and slowly comes up. I am flat pissed off at my ford. I do I trouble shoot my issues alone. Have no one near by to help with bleeding of the brakes.
In the old location where the old fashioned component (Non-electrical) "proportional valve" used to reside. As much as I respect the decision by automakers to employ ABS tech to rigs to create a more safe braking system for adverse road conditions, it was not necessarily as huge step forward for the pickup owners of the world. I admit they have improved the braking characteristics for passenger cars, but it was not the leap they thought it was going to be for the heavy truck industry, especially for the semi-tractor industry as well. They have complicated a system that has worked for decades to what end? An increased functional maintenance costs threw the roof is not what I consider to a positive, but rather the opposite.
Good catch on this valve having air in the system or just being stuck in general. One thing to keep in mind though is that a true ABS unit will have not four but rather six lines to it, and it is an electrical motor driven rotary valve and looks nothing like this, and would be mounted very close to the master cylinder to avoid long metal lines to it from master cylinder. The lines from it would then extend down to the valve you have just shown, and then on to whatever corner it was plumbing brake fluid to. Shoe adjustment is critical to any "hard and high" brake pedal, but air is and always will be the primary culprit in any braking system other than an air brake system. The only other often overlooked culprit is the vacuum booster behind the master cylinder. Symptom: Brake pedal travels towards firewall forever, but eventually it stops rig. But no brakes with just a touch, like we are used to appreciate in a well behaving power brake system. This is often due to a vehicles history of being parked for six months or more in hot areas causing "rubber rot" and all it takes is a "pin hole" and the diaphragm leaks vacuum and the power to brakes lessens.
What causes tap the brake and pedals sucks to floor stand on it an u can bring it back up but ever time u touch it sucks to the floor
YES!!!! thank you soo much man!!! thanks for taking the time to post this!!! same part/ problem on my heavy duty F250! fixed the issue right up!!!
That's awesome man. Thanks for letting me know.
I have a 99 this helped me out a lot plus this guy looks like norm mcdonald
Thank you for sharing. Really helped me out on my 1990 Ford F-150. Love your flatbed, what a deal!!
THANK YOU! 95 E350 with soft pedal. Was getting ready to look at all other components first!
That's great. I hope that solves your problem.
Awesome deal on your rig. That is one fine looking rig. Thank you for the video sir, very informative. Take care bud.
Just picked up a 88 F250 with the 460. Thank you for your videos. They may help me in future!
Dude... you're awesome. And, you look like Marc Harmon! Thanx!
Thanks I appreciate your time!
thank you for these videos!! much needed , I have a 96 F-superduty reg cab flatbed an I love it just now having the idle problem I will change the map sensor now thanks a lot man!!
Thanks for the video hopefully this helps my 1991 Ford E350 motorhome so I can have a piece of mine that my brakes are working 100%
This is what RUclips is all about! Thanks
Thanks for sharing! great info. sure solves going down the ol rabbit hole on parts! Halelujah!
I wish I had that front axle!! I have the bloody D44 TTB. You got that truck for a steal!
Wow thanks man ,I just bought a 1997 crew cab single wheel f350 with that exact same problem , cost me $1000 bucks to have couple crooked shops install a windshield and install one brake line and bleed the brakes just to have a spongy peddle. Now thanks to you I can fix myself . Thank you
Thats awesome. I hope it fixes your problem. I've done this repair on 3 F series trucks over the years and it fixed it every time. Look on Ebay for the part. Good luck!
I have the same 1991 F350 Custom 7.5L dually for $2500.
Jiffy Lubes did my brake bleed twice. Later on, they told me I may have a bad brake booster. 😂
Haha jiffy lube sucks. Do everything yourself
I was about to go buy a booster and master cylinder for my 1995 F250, I'm going to try the abs modulator like you did, thanks!! And good buy on the f350!
I've changed a few of these on F series trucks over the years and it has fixed the problem every time.
Buy OE. not AFT.
Thanks for the compliment on the truck. I love this truck. It runs so awesome
Brig T , I know u said you don't recommend buying after market abs modulator for this, you also said you used one for a ford van. Can you point me in the right direction on eBay for one for an 01 f350, it may be the same if I'm understanding the video correctly.
@@BrigT262 Where can I get one for a 2000 Ford Excursion ? Do You have a Ford part # ?
Thanks for the great video and easy instructions.
Very nice truck, lucky find, thanks for the great video and wonderful information.
Thanks for sharing! And sweet truck forsure. Heck of a deal on it.
thanks for the abs modulator info bro that has to be my problem only 1994 e350 Ford Shasta Rv van frame spongy brakes I bleed them twice still spongy I replaced my Dr side caliper line and bleeded it still spongy so Imma change the abs modulator
I was working on an 1990's era E350 that had spongy brakes, back when I was a technician. I spent easily over 20 hours trying to diagnose this issue. I eventually got the brakes to feel a little better with an updated master cylinder (per Ford TSB), but I had to let the vehicle go. Great job finding the issue! I do have a question: is there a diagnostic procedure for finding this problem, outside of simply replacing the part? When working as a tech, I have to know the part is bad before selling it to the customer.
I bled rears then abs then fronts like ford sez. Yhe abs was good just had air in it
Thanks for the vid... Have same problem with my d.o.m. 4/90. My abs light is on , spongy pedal and now spongy and pedal drops to floor. Jim Colorado springs co. Thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😠😄😄😄😄😄😄😄
did this fix your problem
Would bleeding the brakes and the modulator be a temporary fix for this? Obviously over time air will be let into the system again but I can't find a modulator for a reasonable price at the moment and was really hoping to find at least somewhat of a fix.
Thank you !!!!!! Ive been going nuts with this.
Thank you so much! My truck is fixed.
Wow yours actually still has paint on the frame.... I've gotta get out of upstate ny...
just bought a 92 f350 7.3 with squishy breaks.. hopefully thats the issues havent looked into it yet.. thanks!
you need more repair videos man. you're the youtube version of the farmboy friend everyone needs. fix it once and fix it right.
and i just seen you have plenty of repair videos..got a new subscriber.
I just got a 90 f350 too and I can see it's got new master booster abs unit and brakes are still soft
Thanks buddy! Great advice. Smoking deal on that rig. 👍
Why do you not recommend the aftermarket have you had a bad experience with it
Just what I needed. thanks for the video.
You say that when you took off your old unit there was quite a bit of air in it. Did you first try and bleed the unit first before spending money on a new one? Maybe that was all it needed, to be bled of air. I bled mine and big difference in pedal feel, much firmer and higher, still good after a couple of years.
Very good question. Yes I did bleed it before replacing it and it made no difference. After replacing it, I bled the entire system starting from the back of the truck to the front and to the ABS unit. Night and day difference after replacing it works great to this day
Thanks for sharing this video . I own a 93 Ford F-350 4x4 & have not experienced this yet but sure good to know what I am up against if it does happen down the road .
Nice truck. Good video.
I am having that same problem with my 1994 F350 7.3 turbo charged diesel. I would of thought that the abs light would come on and remain lit if there was a problem with the abs module?
I’m having same problem with my 97 f250 hd I was thinking the same thing. I’ve bled all the brakes changed master cylinder but I was assuming the light would be on if this was the problem but who knows
@@sethturner298 Well, next week I'll find out if this is really the problem. I just got a rebuilt unit and am having our mechanic install it for me. I can hardly wait, and I am really hoping that this works and I have good breaking as I should have. It's spooky having to pump the break pedal. I'll let you know it goes.
This did not fix the problem. I've had both the master cylender and the modulator replaced and that did not fix this problem. So now what?
@@RogerSayers did you ever find the problem? I bought my 1991 F350 460 3 months ago and now the brakes are spongy, I’m going to tear into it this weekend hopefully
I'm wandering I have a 78 f250 and I'm looking at the poportioning valve seems to be the abs madulator on the newer Ford's serves same purpose. Going to check if theres a bleeder valve on it. Cant get rid of those damn spongy brakes.
Good video helped me out.
Ford has a TSB for low/spongy brake pedal. Master cylinder/power booster replacement.
Link please
Do you bleed that third in the sequence? Right rear, left rear, the modulator, and then right front and left front?
How did you end up bleeding yours? I’m about to do it this weekend
@@davefreudenberger I believe I ended up not doing this job----it was for a customer and they probably cancelled or something.
Thank you!
I have a 1986 f350 dully change out front brakes and replace masters cylinder still spoungy any idea ?
Sharp ride
This guy does nothing but shill Genuine Ford Motorcraft Parts™.
this was actually really helpful thx
Does the 95 Bronco 5.8l have this abs modulator?
you said abs modulator had a bunch of air in it , would bleeding it along with the brakes have fixed it?
You can try that. I did do that as well but no change.
I have same problem, I replaced the master cylinder and brake booster and now spongy pedal, I bleed all the system still same issue
Super nice truck!!! I love flatbeds. Thanks for the info my 16 year old son has been working tirelessly on getting my old 7.3. Same problem with the brakes, going to bleed to module today. Do you gravity bleed or pump the brakes as on the cylinders?
Did You ever find out how to bleed modulator ?
For real?
Brig t, thanks for the video. Will this work on the 1996 f250? I have all new brakes, new booster, and the truck feels as if it doesnt want to stop.
thank you for the orientation
What part number did you use which was identical but with a bracket to F8TZ-2B373-HRM?
This makes complete since now. My abs light came on at the same time..replaced the master cylinder and nothing.. Thanks for the info. Do you have a ford part number?
What’s wrong with the reman ones!?
have 1998 f150. have to push the brake pedal a long way for the brakes to work...new master cyl/new boster(with boster rod properly adjusted) / new rear wheel cylinders/ALLnew brake lines/new rotors/new calipers/properly bled brakes...still LOW brake pedal gor brakes to tale hold. have been told " just the nature of older trucks" rear shoe brakes adjusted properly.......help...(brakes work great, once you push the pedal down far enough)
Bob Haddock sorry man. No experience with the girly f150's
My problem was not the ABS, but the factr that there is a right and a left caliper. I had them reversed! Try this first!
How did they get reversed ?
I have spongy breaks, on a F250 1992. I replaced the MC, and the rabs hydraulic. Breaks are still spongy and the rear brakes are locking up. Do you have any suggestions, totally lost at this point.
Thanks. Good info. Does the ABS need to be operational to have this fix solve the spongy brakes? I have a 96 e350 Quigley converted 4x4 van with a 460 7.5L. It of course has the sponge brakes. It also weighs nearly 10k. The front is essentially a f350 axle. It has modified (by Quigley) ABS wheel sensors...really just the bracket. Ive had an ABS light on as long as I have owned it. I was told it was just the left sensor. So I dropped the $400 to get Quigley to send me their modified version and have it installed. When it didn't make the ABS light go off I gave up. Was told by a Ford dealer that the rear ABS needed to be changed too. I decided I didn't need ABS. But I am wondering about this fix. Could this solve my spongy brakes without having to further fix the ABS? How is the ABS modulator different from the ABS wheel mounted sensors? Thanks for any thoughts on this.
Yeaa duhhh
Thanks man! Nice Video
Do you bleed the modulator first or last
what do you mean by "spongy" I have an 88 f250 that when I step down on the break it hisses.... is that the same thing?
i know i'm late but by spongy he means the pedal drops to the floor fast and doesn't stay firm and hissing when you press the brakes sounds more like the brake booster
I realized that I don't know how to disconnect the brake hoses from the modulator. Can you offer some tips?
Would this abs cause the rear brakes to not release when it goes bad?
Not sure if it's the master cylinder or brake booster? Help me please
nice find! Hey, I'll let you double your money and I'll give you $2400! C'mon, it's a win-win deal! Just kidding, but seriously: a, thanks for taking the time to video this stuff; and b, SELL ME YOUR TRUCK!
Thank you so much
Hi show the old one to see better thanks for the tip
Hi, what about the ones that doesnt have ABS? Mine is a 1988 custom F250 with the 460 C6 ... still spongy after changing the master cylinder and bleeding all lines.
Your calipers may be reversed! There is a right and a left!
does a 95 f250 diesel have this?
The brake proportion valve
Thanks for info !
I just bought a 1996 f250 7.5L 460 4x4 and the issue I'm having on the brake pedal is the stiffness when pressing on it to stop the truck. Is that the ABS module or the master cylinder?
Sounds like that issue is with the vacuum power booster.
please i need help my 1988 ford f350 dually automatic transmission wont shift 2nd gear what can i do to fixed
buy a used transmission from a wrecking yard. and get a friend to help you install it
Thank you sir I did get the transmission and yes it works really good
Im not sure about your transmission but over the years i have had and seen a few e4od transmissions have the 2-3 shift solenoid get stuck. The truck will run/drive fine until it comes time to shift into 3rd gear...
Yea this dosent fix it Everytime. Im here to tell ya. Disable the old one first see it that fixes the issues . The real issue is the master cylinder for this year dosent move enough fluid for the dual cylinder calipers . You have to use a newer master with a bigger orfic
Thanks ...
I know this is my problem and unfortunately my module is unobtanium 😞
Hi Brig/gentlemen, I have a 1992 Ford F250 7.3L IDI, I have to tap the pedal down for the "first start of the day" to kick in the choke (higher RPM) and it stays high for about 3 mins. to warm up and settles down. If I dont tap the pedal it stays at regular RPM. any idea what could be the issue ?
That sounds like normal operating to me
The 7.3L IDI is a diesel, so it doesn't have a choke. The engine speed is governed by the amount of fuel injected by the injection pump. These engines have a cold start rpm solenoid and a cold advance solenoid, on or near the injection pump. I would check to make sure that you are receiving battery voltage to both of these solenoids when the engine is cold. It is also possible that one of the solenoids is bad. Another, more unlikely problem, is that your injection pump is bad.