I skip the trailer. Roof top transport. Had an inflatable, and put it away for a 12 Ft Alluminum starcraft. Cartoped it for 1000's miles by myself. Twice the space with about the same weight and size. Today 12 Ft poly boats an option
Most inflatables have duckbill self bailers, if you fit one make sure its at least 2", the 1" will take forever to drain. I've been swamped once with heavy load, water just flows over transom, biggest worry is wave drowning motor as power head is just above water. If boat had better self bailers probably wouldn't haven't got swamped. I've owned inflatables and current RIB(ridge hull Inflatable boat) for 35yrs. Being able to deflate to transport or store an inflatable is only plus in every other regards RIBs are far better boats. RIBs ( glass or alloy hull) can use standard boat trailer with rollers, they need lot less water to launch and retrieve. Contact/ wear points are all against hard hull, tow eyelet is also attach to hull not fabric that will tear with high use. Having ridge hulls with deeper V means makes for softer ride and can result in higher top end speed. Once you start leaving inflatable on trailer maintenance problems begin. Transporting motor on transom results in lot stress where transom attaches to pontoons. Sand, small stones and bait/fish bits will get trapped under floor and between floorboards and pontoons. If you don't remove floor on regular basis and clean it out, sand and stones will wear fabric, get puncture here and boat is scrap. Inflated pontoons provide boats structure strength, puncture one and you are in for slow ride home in floppy boat. With RIB its just case of transferring weight to inflatable pontoon, been there done that. RIBs tend to have a drier ride especially in beam sea as spray is defected down under pontoons as hull gives more lift. Easy to mod a rigid hull, ie glue or weld extras to it. With either boat keeping them out of sun is best thing you can do to extend life of pontoons. Cover or garage.
We had an inflatable hot tub that the mice got after so what we did the next year was when we stored the inflatable hot tub we put chlorine tablets in the box of the inflatable hot tub and we had no problem after that.
@@michealyu9790 Suzuki 20hp 4 stroke now. Was a 4hp 2 stroke Chinese knockoff before. I thought about electric, you would need 10hp equivalent or better, 60volts I think, which is a lot of battery and a lot of weight but very doable.
@@philipwall9987 Thank you! So 10hp is the minimum for this boat (I got the same one as you)? No matter electric or gas? What makes you change from 4hp to the current 20hp, is it too weak to push the boat?
@@michealyu9790 4hp will push it, not very fast and if you are on a small lake it might be all you need. It really depends on where you plan to take it. 10hp is a good balance for inland water. Very larger lakes and salt water you would want to be in the 20-30 range just for the ability to move faster against currents and stuff. But ultimately the decision is yours to make. We started at 4 because the lake is small and it was cheap.
Thanks for your insights..
Nice educational video. Nice work!
I skip the trailer. Roof top transport. Had an inflatable, and put it away for a 12 Ft Alluminum starcraft. Cartoped it for 1000's miles by myself. Twice the space with about the same weight and size. Today 12 Ft poly boats an option
Most inflatables have duckbill self bailers, if you fit one make sure its at least 2", the 1" will take forever to drain. I've been swamped once with heavy load, water just flows over transom, biggest worry is wave drowning motor as power head is just above water. If boat had better self bailers probably wouldn't haven't got swamped.
I've owned inflatables and current RIB(ridge hull Inflatable boat) for 35yrs. Being able to deflate to transport or store an inflatable is only plus in every other regards RIBs are far better boats. RIBs ( glass or alloy hull) can use standard boat trailer with rollers, they need lot less water to launch and retrieve. Contact/ wear points are all against hard hull, tow eyelet is also attach to hull not fabric that will tear with high use. Having ridge hulls with deeper V means makes for softer ride and can result in higher top end speed.
Once you start leaving inflatable on trailer maintenance problems begin. Transporting motor on transom results in lot stress where transom attaches to pontoons. Sand, small stones and bait/fish bits will get trapped under floor and between floorboards and pontoons. If you don't remove floor on regular basis and clean it out, sand and stones will wear fabric, get puncture here and boat is scrap.
Inflated pontoons provide boats structure strength, puncture one and you are in for slow ride home in floppy boat. With RIB its just case of transferring weight to inflatable pontoon, been there done that. RIBs tend to have a drier ride especially in beam sea as spray is defected down under pontoons as hull gives more lift.
Easy to mod a rigid hull, ie glue or weld extras to it.
With either boat keeping them out of sun is best thing you can do to extend life of pontoons. Cover or garage.
We had an inflatable hot tub that the mice got after so what we did the next year was when we stored the inflatable hot tub we put chlorine tablets in the box of the inflatable hot tub and we had no problem after that.
Just one tablet is all you need and it could be very small
Wondering what type of motor you use? I am thinking using a electric one, but some told me the electric power is not enough. Thoughts?
@@michealyu9790 Suzuki 20hp 4 stroke now. Was a 4hp 2 stroke Chinese knockoff before. I thought about electric, you would need 10hp equivalent or better, 60volts I think, which is a lot of battery and a lot of weight but very doable.
@@philipwall9987 Thank you! So 10hp is the minimum for this boat (I got the same one as you)? No matter electric or gas? What makes you change from 4hp to the current 20hp, is it too weak to push the boat?
@@michealyu9790 4hp will push it, not very fast and if you are on a small lake it might be all you need. It really depends on where you plan to take it. 10hp is a good balance for inland water. Very larger lakes and salt water you would want to be in the 20-30 range just for the ability to move faster against currents and stuff. But ultimately the decision is yours to make. We started at 4 because the lake is small and it was cheap.