Trying on My Pair of Bespoke Shoes for the FIRST Time!
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- We're finally taking my bespoke shoes off of their lasts and trying them on: gentl.mn/trying-on-bespoke-shoes
#bespoke #shoes #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Black & White: gentl.mn/stripe-socks-black-w...
→ Mid-Brown Socks with Green & Cream Clocks: gentl.mn/socks-brown-green-cr...
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Custom Suit Review 10 Years Later: gentl.mn/custom-suit-review-a...
→ Designing & Cutting Bespoke Shoe Uppers: gentl.mn/bespoke-shoe-uppers-...
SEE THE FULL BESPOKE SHOE SERIES PLAYLIST HERE:
→ • Bespoke Shoes, Start t...
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Scriptwriters: E.J. Daniels and Sven Raphael Schneider
→ Camera & Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Disney
Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber
Visit Amara at harkweberstudio.com
IMAGE CREDIT:
→ Shoegazing.com
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00:00 Trying on Bespoke Shoes: Introduction
The series chronicles; the creation of a bespoke pair of shoes from start to finish with shoemaker Amara. Our long journey is finally over but there are still a few finishing touches that will crown our final success. Let’s see what they are.
00:35 Removing the Lasts
Amara used a “split last,” which means the last is composed of multiple pieces that are screwed together. Because you can break down the last and smaller pieces, it is easier to remove them from the shoe. Also, if you just have a one-piece last, you may stretch the leather in unwanted ways when removing it from the shoe.
02:27 Sanding the Pegs
Amara uses sandpaper to smooth out the surface and get rid of any pegs that protrude into the footbed. She said, “This is why it’s good to have small hands.”
03:19 Using the Decorative Wheel
Amara uses a decorative wheel. It’s a scroll wheel that goes over the perimeter of the sole. Really, it’s really decorative. It’s usually heated to brand a repeating pattern that is consistent onto the sole. Some shoemakers even have a signature pattern that identifies their work.
04:26 Trying on the Shoes
I immediately noticed the shoe felt very supportive, especially in that arch area. That indicates a good, tight fit.
At first, the heel felt good while I was sitting. When I was standing on one foot, I felt it could be a little tighter. I definitely also felt some excess space in the vamp area.
07:08 Improving the Fit
To improve the fit even further, the shoemaker can play with a few things. One of them is the sock liner. Sometimes, the sock liner can be backed with a piece of cork or some foam, depending on the wearer’s choices or ideas of comfort when they walk.
10:17 Making the Sock Liner
First of all, the last is being put back together. Then, Amara uses masking tape to get the pattern of the last. Then, the outline is sketched, and the tape is removed and placed onto paper. The pattern is then covered with a knife and subsequently used to make leather pieces for a sock liner.
12:14 Improving the Padding
We suggested maybe some cork from the ball in the left shoe to see how that would work and feel. Of course, it’s a bespoke shoe, so you can add padding wherever you need it or want it or think it might help.
14:00 Finalizing the Padding & Sock Liner
The leather padding was, of course, skived down, so it’s not bulky. Then, it was rubber cemented into place. Amara applied the glue after the padding had been put into the shoe. Now, if she had applied the glue already outside of the shoe, there’s a much higher risk of the glue getting in parts onto the inside lining where you don’t want it.
14:58 Diamond Pattern Detailing
Amara marks everything up. The first diamond is a bit too long and pointed. But the second one is perfect. Amara also took the time to position the diamond exactly in the right shape, so it doesn’t look off. Then, the pattern is traced onto the sock liner and cut out, which then burns away to get that smooth, generally neat edge.
16:48 Waxing the Openings
Amara is waxing the openings. It’s a final layer of protection, and it helps make the leather softer. Wax is applied to the edges and the openings of the lacings. 
Хобби
*I MAKE BESPOKE* historical suits - and I can not begin to tell you how happy I am that people like the GG and Kirby Allison are introducing literally millions of people to this world.
There are 10,000 stitches in a jacket [coat] that I make and the vast majority are handmade construction stitches to make sure the coat will just last forever, I mean 50 years of regular wear, bespoke suits are generational clothing. King Charles still wears his grandfather's overcoat, 45 year old John Lobb shoes, and 30-year-old suits. >>>
Mine is a semi-professional hobby - I only make 4 a year for clients so I dont have a website. But I want to get across that if you spend $5k on a good heavy bespoke suit you can wear it several times a week for the rest of your life. The amount of work we put in to make bespoke suits, bespoke suits just last and stand up to abuse is astonishing.
Money buys happiness indeed
Who are you?
Retirement gift to myself next summer 2024. I’m looking for you brother.
Glad to see Mr. Schneider back. No wonder he was out of the channel, bespoke shoemaking takes a lot of time!
When one person is making every part - it really does take a LOT of time. I make bespoke historical suits, it takes me 250 to 300 hours. If you broke that up into 5 people you could do the same work in 150 hours - I mean that is literally the basis of industrialization.
But it is entirely different to have something that was entirely made by ONE human being.
Bespoke shows is one of the Gentleman's pleasures. Amara seems to be amazing. Great video.
Class. Pure, unadulterated, top-drawer class.
This video was fascinating not just in the excellent demonstration of constructing great shoes but also the quality of video. GG's video-making and editing skills have become even sharper, more interesting and also a modest dose of fun. Glad to remain subscribed.
Even if I had the skill to be a cobbler, I’d never have the patience.
Thanks for highlighting the work of these wonderful artists.
Me too. The patience is totally admirable
When I was stationed in Korea, I had a shoemaker make me two pairs of Alligator shoes one black and one two tone brown they both fit like a kit glove and were very comfortable. They cost me a pretty penny, but well worth the price. I also had numerous suits made for me in Hong Kong and Seoul Korea back in the 1990s..
Each video in this series gets better each time and have enjoyed it very much! Amara is extremely talented and does fantastic work. Enjoy your bespoke pair of shoes.
Hi Raphael, I have watched all 12 episodes today and I found the whole process totally fascinating. Amara really is a true master of her craft. Great series.
I enjoyed the entire bespoke shoe series. I learned quite a bit.
Oooh face nailed quatersawn white oak floors!
Absolutely both bespoke and made to measure takes time and require patience building the relationship with the tailor. I have 2 bespoke jackets and the difference in fit is notable, not for anyone else looking, but just for me: the second one is full of little adjustments that makes it just as good looking but clearly more comfortable.
Delightful fit, wonderful craftsmanship!!
I appreciated the channel much more after Raphael commented in a video the clothes weren’t that important in life overall, but it was a fun thing that improved self confidence. (Not a verbatim quote.)
The Real Gentlemen guide
I recently bought shoes from Ace Marks at your recommendation and they are amazing. Thank you Rafael!
I loved how leather shoes are made to fit when you wear it. You've got to break it by wore it everyday until the leather mold and soften to your feet and it's the best feeling ever. Though mine just discounted $35 Pedro oxford. Wish I could own bespoke shoes someday.
Great stuff, thank you!
Very impressive shoe. Happy with you.❤
Great work Amara !
Thank You! I enjoy all of your videos! Best regards to all, gentlemen!
Works of art.
I had a problem with chafing when I tried on my first pair of ready to wear shoes, but I didn't notice it much after the break-in period.
Elegant socks.
Thank you! You can find them here: shop.gentlemansgazette.com/accessories/socks/mid-brown-socks-with-green-and-cream-clocks-in-cotton-fort-belvedere?
Exquisite shoes and socks
How many hours did Amara put into your shoes?
Real workwomanship. Quality is what we all want.
This guy is a DIVA
the tip of the shoes considered as dress shoe?. i have one shoe just same that tip.
A guide on suspenders please!
I want to buy a leather wallet, and when I see your work, I get excited, but there are some comments complaining about the products that reach them. Are you really going to provide us with care for our products and will you serve us after the sale if I do not get the required product?
Hi there! Here's a link to the Fort Belvedere contact details - do get in touch so we can discuss your requirements: shop.gentlemansgazette.com/contact/?
raphael, are you losing hair, or is it the cut?
ITS SO CHISEL POINTED, what do you call that tip?
A chisel toe
@GG - you really milked this one didn't you :) 1+ years for shoes?
Some bespoke shoemakers can have waiting lists of 2-3 years
🥃🎩
A Very Beautiful Series! Is Amara a Pin Up Girl(Kitten)?
I want to see him in a gangster movie.
he can play as The Penguin
Últimamente están llegando los vídeos en inglés , no en español para los suscriptores hisoapanos
I don’t get why your grandfather had to use a child’s hands to find pegs inside the shoe when if there were pegs found his hands would have to go in there anyway to sand them down. And as far as you complaining about space in the vamp area of the shoe, I think that Amara should’ve knelt down there with a hammer in her hand to fix anywhere where there is space in that final shoe
Who has met a tailor named Taylor?
When your German grandfather escape to Brazil in a submarine 😏
respect for the handwork but i think the tip of the shoe looks not so elegant
Each to their own! What toe shape would you go for?
@@gentlemansgazette i like the fine toe shape too but in a more softer transitions. This shoe looks to edgy but its how you say "Each to their own"
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