I sealed the interior of the panels, as I don't trust bare MDF to not absorb moisture and warp. I have yet to assemble the crossover, but when I do I will use a perfboard to mount the components. I've been in electronics long enough to know that just twisting wires together and soldering doesn't end well. I'll also mount the crossover to the top panel for access and to avoid disturbing the wavefront through the TL. Also, the woofers are wired in series. Only one pair of wires + and - to connect both.
@@buzzcrushtrendkill I think he's saying that securing components that way isn't good. Yeah twisting and soldering is fine (this guy's soldering isn't great) but that hot glue is pretty useless especially on smooth things. I'd either use perfboard like he mentioned or drill some through holes in the board to secure with zip ties.
This looks very much like Lynn Olsen's Ariel design. His incorporated large asymmetrical radii on all front edges to eliminate edge diffraction. Nice job!
This has got to be the best video I have ever seen and detailed explanation awesome job man you did a hell of a good job are you pretty satisfied with the way them speakers sound I'm thinking of getting the same ones again great job man
I have made grills for my Tri Trix's . Black grill cloth, full radius at each end, neodymium magnets. I have them listed with pix on Craig's List Chicago
Parts Express has some speaker kits that are really great value for the money: Where else can you get a transmission line, MTM speaker kit pair for under $500? Nowhere
... not in kit form, but it's not hard to come up with a half decent t-line design! ruclips.net/video/-U3XW6TV9zI/видео.html ruclips.net/video/exGFYhrqNQI/видео.html ruclips.net/video/BuCEMkwvFZ0/видео.html ruclips.net/video/VhsgaQ61pgI/видео.html ruclips.net/video/Jdb2mbmL6jg/видео.html ruclips.net/video/lUCwNM9o5GY/видео.html ruclips.net/video/8CSoKFLjQlk/видео.html ruclips.net/video/P-G0n0CpxDI/видео.html ruclips.net/video/ldiiRyI_H7s/видео.html - Wide Baffle ruclips.net/video/yA3addVUAjc/видео.html - Wide Baffle ruclips.net/video/JPcCGKltvqA/видео.html
When edge-screwing MDF (that's what this and most speaker cabinets are made from) feel around the edge to see if any screws caused the MDF to expand, bulge, blow out,... It happens, and it's not really a quality issue (and not your fault unless the screw went in on an angle). If it happens to you, it's not a huge issue, but don't remove the clamps! If you got a full blowout, force some glue into all the cracks. Remove the screw that caused the bulge, put some glue in the hole, and put the screw most of the way back in (it'll force glue into any inside cracks). Back the screw out again, and, if you can, clamp the area with a block right over the bulge to force it as flat as you can. Once all the glue is dry, you can put the screw back in and then remove the clamps. If you don't have masking tape to keep from gluing the block to your cabinet, paper works well, too (not newspaper though.. :-). If any of this was on the outside of the cabinet, you can sand it flat once everything is dry. Sanding will remove any tape or paper stuck to the glue as well. It will also remove some of the sealer MDF gets at the factory, so be sure to seal the sanded area if you're going to paint it. It'll take paint different from the rest if you don't. (A few extra coats of paint can act as a sealer. Paint just the sanded area at first, and sand lightly in between coats.)
I just left the wood unfinished in the back. No one sees it anyway, and I will probably never mess with that veneer again. It was very hard to work with. Next time I will just finish the exterior wood, and use that compressed crap on the inside for the acoustics.
I'm using an old Yamaha rx-v750receiver that is about 300 watts or so. After listening to them for a long time now, I would say they sound best at mid-range but lack a deep base. Overall, still very happy.
@@photojunkysdronezonevlog yes, I’m not sure but I think there should be one wire splitting with the positive going to one woofer and the negative going to the other woofer and than a wire connecting the two woofers together.
I believe Corey is right in the description of how to wire the woofers although the terminology is backwards. They should be wired in series which is why each woofer has an impedance of 4ohm, and when wired in series would equate to 8ohm. I bet rewiring them would make a difference in sound. i.pinimg.com/originals/96/45/1d/96451d49aa34d67cf0a46d577e92cf40.gif
Nice video! Great step-by-step flow, giving those of us afraid to push the “buy” button the courage to take the plunge.
Thank you, I appreciate it.
Caution, once you DIY your first speakers, you'll want to build 10 more pairs.
great step by step. very nice to see it done logically. gave me the impetus to get my mtm kit out of storage and get the ball rolling. thanks.
I sealed the interior of the panels, as I don't trust bare MDF to not absorb moisture and warp. I have yet to assemble the crossover, but when I do I will use a perfboard to mount the components. I've been in electronics long enough to know that just twisting wires together and soldering doesn't end well. I'll also mount the crossover to the top panel for access and to avoid disturbing the wavefront through the TL.
Also, the woofers are wired in series. Only one pair of wires + and - to connect both.
Twisting and soldering is fine. And don't worry about "disturbing the wavefront". It's about pressurization and depressurization inside the cabinet.
@@buzzcrushtrendkill I think he's saying that securing components that way isn't good. Yeah twisting and soldering is fine (this guy's soldering isn't great) but that hot glue is pretty useless especially on smooth things. I'd either use perfboard like he mentioned or drill some through holes in the board to secure with zip ties.
This looks very much like Lynn Olsen's Ariel design. His incorporated large asymmetrical radii on all front edges to eliminate edge diffraction. Nice job!
Thanks.
This has got to be the best video I have ever seen and detailed explanation awesome job man you did a hell of a good job are you pretty satisfied with the way them speakers sound I'm thinking of getting the same ones again great job man
Thank you and yes, they sound great. No issues whatsoever..
I have made grills for my Tri Trix's . Black grill cloth, full radius at each end, neodymium magnets.
I have them listed with pix on Craig's List Chicago
Cool build, I'm going to build some speakers as well and have settled on these too.
Really nice! Found this video on Parts Express. I would love to build these.
Good，Very good👍👍👍
Awesome Video! Great job!
Thank you very much, loving the speakers.
Always apply your glue and then spread it out evenly. Clean up the extra with a towel and hot water.
Parts Express has some speaker kits that are really great value for the money: Where else can you get a transmission line, MTM speaker kit pair for under $500? Nowhere
... not in kit form, but it's not hard to come up with a half decent t-line design!
ruclips.net/video/-U3XW6TV9zI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/exGFYhrqNQI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/BuCEMkwvFZ0/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/VhsgaQ61pgI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/Jdb2mbmL6jg/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/lUCwNM9o5GY/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/8CSoKFLjQlk/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/P-G0n0CpxDI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/ldiiRyI_H7s/видео.html - Wide Baffle
ruclips.net/video/yA3addVUAjc/видео.html - Wide Baffle
ruclips.net/video/JPcCGKltvqA/видео.html
How reliable is hot glue? Just wondering thanks.
2 years no problem. I used it 10 years ago to build a computer that I made with a homemade case. The glue never failed.
@@photojunkysdronezonevlog Good deal. Thanks
Thanks for the video. Finally got mine this week. Do you still like them?
As of May, still like them. Have them hooked up to my main television surround sound system and they are still functioning good.
How did yours turn out?
When edge-screwing MDF (that's what this and most speaker cabinets are made from) feel around the edge to see if any screws caused the MDF to expand, bulge, blow out,... It happens, and it's not really a quality issue (and not your fault unless the screw went in on an angle). If it happens to you, it's not a huge issue, but don't remove the clamps! If you got a full blowout, force some glue into all the cracks. Remove the screw that caused the bulge, put some glue in the hole, and put the screw most of the way back in (it'll force glue into any inside cracks). Back the screw out again, and, if you can, clamp the area with a block right over the bulge to force it as flat as you can.
Once all the glue is dry, you can put the screw back in and then remove the clamps. If you don't have masking tape to keep from gluing the block to your cabinet, paper works well, too (not newspaper though.. :-). If any of this was on the outside of the cabinet, you can sand it flat once everything is dry. Sanding will remove any tape or paper stuck to the glue as well. It will also remove some of the sealer MDF gets at the factory, so be sure to seal the sanded area if you're going to paint it. It'll take paint different from the rest if you don't. (A few extra coats of paint can act as a sealer. Paint just the sanded area at first, and sand lightly in between coats.)
I'd love to see these redesigned with a better tweeter. Mid/basses are fine. But the tweeter isn't great.
You can typically upgrade components through PE, or simply add to the order.
Great video, thanks! How did you veneer the rear baffle after asembly?
I just left the wood unfinished in the back. No one sees it anyway, and I will probably never mess with that veneer again. It was very hard to work with. Next time I will just finish the exterior wood, and use that compressed crap on the inside for the acoustics.
Nice video. You say the sound was “good”. What is lacking?
Lows
what do you use to power them ?
I'm using an old Yamaha rx-v750receiver that is about 300 watts or so. After listening to them for a long time now, I would say they sound best at mid-range but lack a deep base. Overall, still very happy.
IF you have kids though they could end up throwing something inside the speaker
My kids are grown, but I still wouldn't put it past them. 😆
Have them put a few stuffed animals in each, that'll tighten up the bass response :)
I thought the speakers in this kit were connected in series not parallel
Saw two people do it the way I did, so I figured that was the right way. Sounds great. Could it sound better?
Question, are you referring to the way I wired the woofers?
@@photojunkysdronezonevlog yes, I’m not sure but I think there should be one wire splitting with the positive going to one woofer and the negative going to the other woofer and than a wire connecting the two woofers together.
I believe Corey is right in the description of how to wire the woofers although the terminology is backwards. They should be wired in series which is why each woofer has an impedance of 4ohm, and when wired in series would equate to 8ohm. I bet rewiring them would make a difference in sound. i.pinimg.com/originals/96/45/1d/96451d49aa34d67cf0a46d577e92cf40.gif
@@johnny1980ns I May try that after a little research. They do sound pretty damn good though.
Sper
You have spent so many money for that bad quality
They sound great