Series 3 transfer case part 2
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
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This video is produced for entertainment purposes only and Britannica Restorations nor Michael Wesson and/or guests featured in this video shall not, in any way or measure, be held accountable or responsible for any damages related to attempted repairs as pictured in this video.
All opinions expressed by Michael Wesson and/or his guests are solely for entertainment purposes and shall not be interpreted as an official sponsorship of a product, brand, enterprise nor a judgement of quality and/or value of a product, brand, and/or enterprise.
Furthermore, Michael Wesson and/or Britannica Restorations are not responsible for the comments published by viewers of said video.
When I was a 'lad' in the sixties we used Stag on the drain plugs of pumps we made. Almost impossible to unscrew them when set, not good if you were on a service call to a farm or a trawler at Scarborough, Bridlington or Fleetwood. Don't think they send 'lads' out now, health and safety.
Of course on motorbikes the usual sealand was red Hermatite, visible at every joint.
Thanks for the memories.
😎🇬🇧
Blue Hylomar , as used by Mr Rolls apparently , was my go to product . It never let me down ; but I would grease a gasket if and when at all possible .
We used blue Hylomar, no gasket, on the joint faces of horizontal, split case steam turbine lube oil pumps for Parsons, GEC and their successors. No actual joints as they were machined face to face and the Hylomar was effectively, or assumed to be, of zero thickness.
I sometimes get to rebuild pumps from my old firm so it's Weetabix cartons, near enough twenty thou, and grease. I won't be the next person to work on the pump but the lad or lass that does will thank me for using it, and it's non stick properties.😎🇬🇧
I just thought you really liked tuna. Interesting rebuild.
Lol!
Hi Mike, I use copper slip (copper grease) on my gaskets generally then when I find a spring and washer left over it's easy to dismantle and do it properly!
Thanks for the info
Nice job Mike 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Perfect timing. I messing about with my transfer case getting ready for the Maine Winter Romp.
Have fun!
Working nice and smooth now Mike well done and cost was minimal
Yes it was
It didn't cost much - just a few o-rings and TIME!
Roll on part three the saga of the"special" bolt lol
Gibby inyOZ
JP knocked up a sleeve in a few moments!
Loving all the series content! Keep it coming!
More to come!
@@BritannicaRestorations fantastic!
I'd turn up a sleeve to fix the shouldered bolt issue, be great in bronze!
Yeap, JP made me one!
@@BritannicaRestorations He's a good man!
Great job. I've done a few S2A and S3 transfer/gearboxes and they are preety similar. I heard to use grease in the papper and cork gaskets, but always thought it could be insuficient for a good sealing, so I adopted to use a varnish seal, loctite MR 5923 with good results so far. Do you think it is a good option or grease is better? Thanks and keep going turning land rovers better.
Depends on the condition of the parts you are fitting - on some rough machined parts I use a gasket and sealer, but most surfaces are pretty good, so grease works well with a paper gasket
@@BritannicaRestorations Ok. I'll try that way. Thanks again.
Series Transfer Box is time proven robust simplicity at it’s best, just a pity the pre - load of the rear output with shims can result in oil leaks & contaminated hand brake shoes. You either love it (which I do) or hate it for being so simply mechanical. This simple but robust design built Land Rover.
u dont have to lube bearings on assembly the box does get oil eventually
Not a very good mechanical attitude - the governor is dry
Mike, the biggest problem with silicone joint sealant is some of the "monkeys" that slather it on all over the surfaces. A thin bead judicially applied to one half of the joint surface is all that's required. In my last years of doing Landy and other engine/gearbox repairs I completely stopped using manufactured gaskets except of course for head/manifold gaskets. The oil stayed inside everything just great with silicone only.
What is your proffered silicone - I'm asking for a monkey?
@@iceman9678 you can tell the monkey, it's called "Blue Max", but it's not peanut 🥜 flavoured. 😉
@@gazzafloss *SAVED* thank you. Very helpful!
@@gazzafloss Blue maxx by loctite?
@@iceman9678 that's the one, and the grey stuff for Toyota sumps 👍.
Hello Mike, i have à serie 3 pb that not correspond to this vidéo, but since it série 3 vid, i ask here... I changed thé valve on my serie 3 2.25 D low pressure pump, and it doesn t want to start.... I purged thé filter, thé high pressure pump (both screw), remove thé pipe of thé first injector, but no fuel from it when i make thé starter motor on... Did you made any vidéo about serie 3 D fuel purging ?
More of that, i plugged à manuel vacuum pump on first injector pipe, providing -0,5 bar, make starter motor on, but no more fuel from injector pipe...
Sorry I have never seen an S3 diesel here
@@BritannicaRestorations ok, wathever, if you have an idea to investigate, I take it.
Ty
If you have bled the injector pump then it has to be something internal - could be something to do with the stop linkage inside
I have not had the opportunity to strip on and explore
I have seen the 2.5 NA pump snap the drive shaft - but not sure if these pumps are the same
@@BritannicaRestorations this what i m afraid of (internal high pressure pump pb), since it is old, like everything in this car.But i didn t tuch anything on this élément, so i didn t investigate. I ll keep bleding and see if any progress
Ty for advices.
Now, where’s it going? 👍🏻🙏🦘
On the S3 box I stripped weeks ago - stuck for parts - do try to keep up you at the back! Lol!